A Month in Chiapas
#21
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Joined: Jan 2012
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This week's post is all about the food. Isn't that one of the big reasons we go to Mexico? My habit when I travel, especially when I have the luxury of time like this trip, is to find several places where the food is good, affordable & served by people who are kind & might even remember my face. If conversation is included, as it was in the first place I mention then it's a winner indeed. So here are my current favorite places to eat in San Cristóbal: https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/eating-out-in-san-cris

Amor Negro

Amor Negro
#22
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,529
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Thanks mme. Makes me wanna go back; it's been several years, at least 10 or 12, sometime shortly before Mexicana folded. And my recollection was that there weren't as many restaurants at that time. Speaking of food, my other recollection is that food in San Cris was much better than that in Antigua, though I think that's pretty much true, overall when comparing Mexico to Guatemala. Although I'm sure in Antigua that's changed too over the years.
#23
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Joined: Jan 2012
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Museum #1 on this visit to San Cristóbal was the home of 2 remarkable people, Gertrude Duby & Frans Blom. She was Swiss, an anthropologist & he was a Danish archeologist, an early excavator of Palenque, among others. I've provided links to more information about the couple at the end, worthwhile reading.* https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/hom...useum-na-bolom
#24

Joined: Jan 2003
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Baldone—You got me thinking if I found the food not as good in Guatemala, compared to Mexico. And in my experience, I don’t think I came to that conclusion, although certainly Mexico being a larger country has a more diverse cuisine with each region having its specialties. Perhaps I am influenced by taking a cooking class in Antigua focusing on Guatemalan dishes and remember amongst others pepian, Guatemala’s national dish, which is heavenly. In both Mexico and Guatemala, I appreciated the freshness of ingredients. However, having not been to San Cristobal, I can’t compare it to Antigua.
#26
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Joined: Jan 2012
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I'd say Na Bolom was more interesting in the directions it sent me for learning more about the Bloms & their work than what's actually there. Of course the house was fun to see but there isn't really much of substance about their lives when they were there & working. Or what's being done now to continue their work. I suspect not much. It would be a nice place to stay for a few days, a nice location though a bit far from the center for walking. I'd guess the revenue produced from the guest rooms supports maintenance & staff & not much more. I think there's potential but it would depend on the terms by which the organization operates. Of course, I don't know what goes on in the other buildings on the grounds so maybe there's much more than a casual observer like myself would know.
#27
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 12,849
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Saturday & a new chapter, this one about the mundane, grocery shopping, which I confess I always love to do when I'm traveling and have any sort of kitchen available. Having to go out for every meal can get tedious and there's just the fun of doing everyday things in a brand new environment. I'm sure it's why, in part, I love long stays.
https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/gro...san-cristo-bal
https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/gro...san-cristo-bal
#28
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 8
Thanks for the follow-up. I sometimes take for granted the variety of fruits and veggies here. And how they're ridiculously cheap. Our Mexican daughter-in-law, a vegan, moved to the states from San Miguel 2 years ago and she is still suffering from culture shock.
#30
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,529
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Cute story; she saw him pulling weeds at their house and told him, 'no, we can eat that'. It was purslane, a common weed in the US Midwest, but known as verdolaga here in Mexico and it's sold in Soriana and Comer. I also like how much of the available produce here is locally sourced, since much of the bulk stuff is exported.
#32
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 12,849
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Another Saturday, another blog post. It was November 1st, Dia de los Muertos in the land where it all began and one of the most interesting days in over 50 years of wandering the planet. Besides the intensity of the experience, what surprised me was the absence of outsiders, very few of us. If I was going to recommend 1 experience to everyone here it would be this day in San Juan Chamula. And, contrary to my usual m.o. I'd recommend going with this small group tour operator, Alex y Raúl Tours, low key and very useful for keeping clueless gringos out of trouble.
https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/dia...n-juan-chamula
https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/dia...n-juan-chamula
#33
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 12,849
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Saturday Greetings. This week is the second half of Day of the Dead, Dia de los Muertos. And, I think, my favorite photos. I'd missed the celebration in various places in years past but this time hit it right and it couldn't have been in a better location. I opted for a tour for a variety of reasons & it was a good decision, with deservedly well-reviewed & low-key Alex y Raúl Tours.
https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/cha...de-los-muertos
https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/cha...de-los-muertos
#37
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 12,849
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Hi Baldone, thanks for the note. I realize there's only so much to be said and am pretty sure you & other regulars are reading the posts. In any case, if I start to feel neglected I just have a look at the numbers of views & am always amazed & gratified there are as many reading as there are. Pretty amazing. Cheers.
#38
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 12,849
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The introduction to this week's post, "After a lively morning in Chamula on Day of the Dead, PortMoresby has a shopping opportunity along with a sobering education in the geology of southern Mexico." Beautiful weaving done in Zinacantán is juxtaposed with the damage done to its beautiful church by 2 earthquakes in recent years. Being from California I'm no stranger to the earth moving under my feet, including some vivid childhood memories, but rarely does one see this kind of damage, though the sight of collapsed buildings in San Francisco's Marina district in 1989 made me realize it can happen anywhere.
https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/san...anta-n-chiapas
https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/san...anta-n-chiapas
#39
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,112
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Just came across your TR, MmePerdu and look forward to reading it when I have some time. Skimming though some of these comments, I think my experience last Dec. 2018 was similar to your’s-I don’t recall seeing or hearing many Anglo tourists. Some but not obtrusive by any means. Which for me was nice. I thought San Cris was quite pretty. Unfortunately all of the churches were still closed for restoration due to the big quake. I also enjoyed visiting Chamula. The San Juan Bautista Church services were a real cultural experience.
If I recall correctly, you were in San Cris shortly before I was??
If I recall correctly, you were in San Cris shortly before I was??


