A FOOD-FOCUSED REPORT: MEXICO CITY, PUEBLA, OAXACA
Feb 16th, 2015, 01:40 PM
#41
We are now in DF. Spent the better part of the day with Cristina. She is a gem! We thoroughly enjoyed our time with her. Thank you for mentioning her. Over the next few days we hope to follow I. Your footsteps for some of your meals.
Feb 20th, 2015, 07:39 AM
#45
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Would love to read the next installment !
Also about the Puebla and Oaxaca sections of your trip. In partiuclar what did you think of the Casona de la China Poblano hotel which we are considering booking ?
Also about the Puebla and Oaxaca sections of your trip. In partiuclar what did you think of the Casona de la China Poblano hotel which we are considering booking ?
Feb 20th, 2015, 12:57 PM
#46
Gave your regards to Christina. She immediately knew who I meant despite my not having your name. She said you all were really nice.
We had comida at El Hidalguense- it was delicious. I didn't love the bouillon, but the lamb was great and we loved the queso asada estilo huasteco.
Thanks again for all your suggestions. We're off to Oaxaca tomorrow.
We had comida at El Hidalguense- it was delicious. I didn't love the bouillon, but the lamb was great and we loved the queso asada estilo huasteco.
Thanks again for all your suggestions. We're off to Oaxaca tomorrow.
Mar 1st, 2015, 10:31 AM
#48
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EL BAJIO, flagship location in Apotzalco:
Our next foray into barbacoa was not quite as successful, yet I would still keep this restaurant on any list of good eating places in the DF. Note that we visited the flagship location of El Bajio, but there are other locations, including one in Polanco, which was close to our hotel.
Added plus is that it is open on Sundays.
EL BAJIO
Several days prior, after our lunch at Nico's, while strolling along Avenida Cuilahuac, bakery treats in hand, we noticed the blue facade of El Bajio, one of the restaurants on my list.
The Avenida Cuitlahuac location, at #2709 in Colonia O. Popular is the flagship for this mini-chain (their menu lists 7 outposts in the metro area, including one near our hotel in Polanco) and the location reported to have the best food. After determining that they offer lamb barbecue 7 days a week, we booked a table there for Sunday comida.
After spending Sunday morning in Chapultepec Park, taking in the Zoo and the general festive atmosphere, we headed back to our hotel and from there, opted to take an
"economico" taxi, the least expensive of the two categories sitio taxis working with the hotel. The prices in these taxis are determined by zones; we were told that the fare to El Bajio would be $150, and that the amount could be charged directly to our room. I mention all of this because, in comparison, to return to the hotel after our meal, we hailed a taxi in the street and reversed the route we had taken a few hours before. Fare, on meter: $35.
Now, on to the meal:
Rainbow-hued papel picudo flutters from the rafters spanning the suite of dining rooms fronted by a vast open kitchen at this casual eatery, which was packed with families when we entered on a Sunday about 2:30pm.
The large menu encompasses a variety of meat-centric dishes, preceeded by snacks of all stripes ranging from Crabmeat Tacos to Pickled Pork Feet with Vegetables, and many variations on quesadillas, gorditas, tostadas, and garnachas.
We began our meal with two soups: The Caldo Xochitl ($63) proved to be a near-perfect rendition of the classic Mexican chicken soup, especially after enchancement with a few sqeezes of lime and a hillock of cilantro. I acceeded to the waiter's strong suggestion of the Caldo Tlalpeno, a heartier soup with chicken and vegetables which was close to perfect.
Do not ignore the soup offerings when selecting your restaurant meals in Mexico! I would return here just to sample the soups!!
While waiting for our main course to arrive, we spied Chef Gerardo from Nico's, along with his partner, being shown to a nearby table.
Two of us shared a 1/4 kilo of Carnitas (speciiying the boneless maciza) and for me, an additional order of a hefty taco of barbecued lamb.
During the planning phase of thise trip, I had asked about carnitas in Mexico City and Cristina had warned me that I would never find any that came close to the quality I remembered from traveling in Michoacan, years ago. This proved to be the case here: The pork was a tad dry and perhaps a bit lacking in pork-ey flavor.
The addition of salsas remedied this a bit but I cannot say that the carnitas lived up to their stellar reputation among certain locals (the concierge at our hotel told us that his family makes regular pilgrimages to the restaurant just for the carnitas)
As for the lamb taco: The meat was a touch more gamey than the version at El Hidalguense, so perhaps this was borrego instead of carnero. But the taco was plenty tasty; and after dousing it with chipotle salsa and cilantro, I devoured it in near-record time.
The check, including 1 Sol (beer) and 1 Agua de Limon con Chia, came to $325 before tip.
Service was excellent; some English is spoken and the menu is translated into English. All in all, a convivial restaurant worth returning to to sample the soups and other dishes from the broad menu. Just keep your expectations in check when ordering the carnitas and barbecue.
Part of menu posted below.
Website:
http://www.restauranteelbajio.com.mx
Our next foray into barbacoa was not quite as successful, yet I would still keep this restaurant on any list of good eating places in the DF. Note that we visited the flagship location of El Bajio, but there are other locations, including one in Polanco, which was close to our hotel.
Added plus is that it is open on Sundays.
EL BAJIO
Several days prior, after our lunch at Nico's, while strolling along Avenida Cuilahuac, bakery treats in hand, we noticed the blue facade of El Bajio, one of the restaurants on my list.
The Avenida Cuitlahuac location, at #2709 in Colonia O. Popular is the flagship for this mini-chain (their menu lists 7 outposts in the metro area, including one near our hotel in Polanco) and the location reported to have the best food. After determining that they offer lamb barbecue 7 days a week, we booked a table there for Sunday comida.
After spending Sunday morning in Chapultepec Park, taking in the Zoo and the general festive atmosphere, we headed back to our hotel and from there, opted to take an
"economico" taxi, the least expensive of the two categories sitio taxis working with the hotel. The prices in these taxis are determined by zones; we were told that the fare to El Bajio would be $150, and that the amount could be charged directly to our room. I mention all of this because, in comparison, to return to the hotel after our meal, we hailed a taxi in the street and reversed the route we had taken a few hours before. Fare, on meter: $35.
Now, on to the meal:
Rainbow-hued papel picudo flutters from the rafters spanning the suite of dining rooms fronted by a vast open kitchen at this casual eatery, which was packed with families when we entered on a Sunday about 2:30pm.
The large menu encompasses a variety of meat-centric dishes, preceeded by snacks of all stripes ranging from Crabmeat Tacos to Pickled Pork Feet with Vegetables, and many variations on quesadillas, gorditas, tostadas, and garnachas.
We began our meal with two soups: The Caldo Xochitl ($63) proved to be a near-perfect rendition of the classic Mexican chicken soup, especially after enchancement with a few sqeezes of lime and a hillock of cilantro. I acceeded to the waiter's strong suggestion of the Caldo Tlalpeno, a heartier soup with chicken and vegetables which was close to perfect.
Do not ignore the soup offerings when selecting your restaurant meals in Mexico! I would return here just to sample the soups!!
While waiting for our main course to arrive, we spied Chef Gerardo from Nico's, along with his partner, being shown to a nearby table.
Two of us shared a 1/4 kilo of Carnitas (speciiying the boneless maciza) and for me, an additional order of a hefty taco of barbecued lamb.
During the planning phase of thise trip, I had asked about carnitas in Mexico City and Cristina had warned me that I would never find any that came close to the quality I remembered from traveling in Michoacan, years ago. This proved to be the case here: The pork was a tad dry and perhaps a bit lacking in pork-ey flavor.
The addition of salsas remedied this a bit but I cannot say that the carnitas lived up to their stellar reputation among certain locals (the concierge at our hotel told us that his family makes regular pilgrimages to the restaurant just for the carnitas)
As for the lamb taco: The meat was a touch more gamey than the version at El Hidalguense, so perhaps this was borrego instead of carnero. But the taco was plenty tasty; and after dousing it with chipotle salsa and cilantro, I devoured it in near-record time.
The check, including 1 Sol (beer) and 1 Agua de Limon con Chia, came to $325 before tip.
Service was excellent; some English is spoken and the menu is translated into English. All in all, a convivial restaurant worth returning to to sample the soups and other dishes from the broad menu. Just keep your expectations in check when ordering the carnitas and barbecue.
Part of menu posted below.
Website:
http://www.restauranteelbajio.com.mx
Mar 1st, 2015, 10:41 AM
#49
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And now, on to the glorious city of Puebla de los Angeles, an easy bus ride (passing dramatic volcanic vistas; sit on the right side for the better view from the capital to Puebla) from the DF:
Our base here was the small, historic hotel La Casona de la China Poblana, well located within a block or two of the Zocalo, but it would be hard to go very wrong here, as Puebla is not large and the main areas can be covered on foot:
http://www.casonadelachinapoblana.com.mx/
Not that the rooms at this hostelry vary quite a bit; we were in Akbar, which had only a skylight for light. And I had booked about 5 months in advance! Nevertheless, we were pleased with the hotel and the location. NOTE: Do not get this hotel confused with a hostel with a similar name!
PUEBLA
We arrived at this beautiful Colonial city by direct, very comfortable ADO luxury bus from the TAPO terminal in Mexico City. Here again, do not rely on a taxi driver to know the address of your hotel. Enough said on that issue; by Oaxaca, I finally learned!
With only two nights and one-and-a-half days, we scarcely time to skim the surface of the gastronomic delights on offer within the historic center, let alone time to venture to Cholula and the outlying region. So I have only very brief notes to offer:
LAS RANAS. Very short walk from the Zocalo, tucked into the courtyard of a Colonial building, Las Ranas announces itself by the glistening spit of pork turning at the entrance.
You know what to order: Several varieties of al Pastor, depending on the wrapping (flour tortilla or corn tortilla--both with pineapple, or “Arab” bread, reportedly a cross between pita bread and a flour tortilla, but you’d be hard pressed to find much difference between this and a flour tortilla and which is served sans pineapple).
Tiny distinctions aside, these are al Pastor of the first order: Charred edges, a bit of fat, succulent pork, served with excellent salsas-- but certainly include a helping of Frijoles Charros, as these red beans, with lashings of pork, are fantastic. Price for a meal of 1 Gringo with Flour Tortilla and Cheese, 1 Arabe, 1 Frijoles Charros, 1 agua de jamaica, and one Coke: $80.
For all I know, restaurants like these may be a dime a dozen in Puebla, which seems to be a food city of the highest order. But this is a place I did visit, and one I would return to, again and again. Fellow diners appeared to be locals; sports on tv screens; helpful but efficient service. (Not sure if servers speak English, though) I wanted to return here again, and again and it was only the idea that I “should” branch out that kept me from dining here at every meal.
Note that there are two Las Ranas, facing each other diagonally across Avenida Poniente. We ate at the branch closest to the Zolcalo; you may have to peer to find the names of both on their awnings.
And (this is obviously obvious to many, I am sure) if you remember that Poniente refers to “west” and Oriente to “east,” and you will be on your way to orienting yourselves in Puebla. Opens at 12pm.
Our base here was the small, historic hotel La Casona de la China Poblana, well located within a block or two of the Zocalo, but it would be hard to go very wrong here, as Puebla is not large and the main areas can be covered on foot:
http://www.casonadelachinapoblana.com.mx/
Not that the rooms at this hostelry vary quite a bit; we were in Akbar, which had only a skylight for light. And I had booked about 5 months in advance! Nevertheless, we were pleased with the hotel and the location. NOTE: Do not get this hotel confused with a hostel with a similar name!
PUEBLA
We arrived at this beautiful Colonial city by direct, very comfortable ADO luxury bus from the TAPO terminal in Mexico City. Here again, do not rely on a taxi driver to know the address of your hotel. Enough said on that issue; by Oaxaca, I finally learned!
With only two nights and one-and-a-half days, we scarcely time to skim the surface of the gastronomic delights on offer within the historic center, let alone time to venture to Cholula and the outlying region. So I have only very brief notes to offer:
LAS RANAS. Very short walk from the Zocalo, tucked into the courtyard of a Colonial building, Las Ranas announces itself by the glistening spit of pork turning at the entrance.
You know what to order: Several varieties of al Pastor, depending on the wrapping (flour tortilla or corn tortilla--both with pineapple, or “Arab” bread, reportedly a cross between pita bread and a flour tortilla, but you’d be hard pressed to find much difference between this and a flour tortilla and which is served sans pineapple).
Tiny distinctions aside, these are al Pastor of the first order: Charred edges, a bit of fat, succulent pork, served with excellent salsas-- but certainly include a helping of Frijoles Charros, as these red beans, with lashings of pork, are fantastic. Price for a meal of 1 Gringo with Flour Tortilla and Cheese, 1 Arabe, 1 Frijoles Charros, 1 agua de jamaica, and one Coke: $80.
For all I know, restaurants like these may be a dime a dozen in Puebla, which seems to be a food city of the highest order. But this is a place I did visit, and one I would return to, again and again. Fellow diners appeared to be locals; sports on tv screens; helpful but efficient service. (Not sure if servers speak English, though) I wanted to return here again, and again and it was only the idea that I “should” branch out that kept me from dining here at every meal.
Note that there are two Las Ranas, facing each other diagonally across Avenida Poniente. We ate at the branch closest to the Zolcalo; you may have to peer to find the names of both on their awnings.
And (this is obviously obvious to many, I am sure) if you remember that Poniente refers to “west” and Oriente to “east,” and you will be on your way to orienting yourselves in Puebla. Opens at 12pm.
Mar 1st, 2015, 10:43 AM
#50
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MERCADO DE LOS SABORES POBLANOS
About a 20-minute walk west from the Zocalo on Avenida 4 Poniente, rainbow-colored alphabet mosaics announce this conglomeration of dozens upon dozens of food stalls well laid out within airy, light-filled and spic and span premises that might remind some of a mall food court but whose vendors appeared to be offering “the real thing.”
We arrived around 5pm and things were shutting down but I would have returned had we more time in the city. Just across the avenue is one of the city’s main food markets, also near closing that late in the day.
LA CALLE DE LOS DULCES
After breakfast on our one full day in the city, the first order of business was to investigate La Calle de los Dulces, or the “street of sweets,” as Calle 6 Oriente in the vicinity of Calles 2 and 4 Norte is known.
Puebla is famous for sweets and the many of varieties are unique to the region, I believe.
(If you miss this street, there are several shops scattered throughout the city, as well as at the CAPU bus terminal). There are Tortitas de Santa Clara, mueganos, pepitorias, sugar-dusted gum drops, and perhaps the most emblematic: Camote, a sweet treat made from boiled sweet potato and sugar offered in a variety of flavors from strawberry to vanilla. Interesting, but perhaps more an acquired taste.
We visited a few of the shops that face each other along two blocks of Calle 6 Oriente, buying samples of a number of sweets along with a couple of pouches of prepared mole paste. The stores seemed to sell similar items and many were mobbed with domestic tourists; one we particularly liked was century-old LA GRAN FAMA.
SUPER TORTAS PUEBLA, Ave. 3 Poniente, #311
There are probably hundreds of addresses turning out tortas and the fluffier, sesame-studded cemitas and it’s hard to imagine that one can go too far wrong in this sandwich-obsessed city. We selected a recommendation from a random local that had also been lauded on a few Spanish-language sites.
Given the simplicity of the ingredients (we shared a torta of quesillo cheese, which also contained avocado and mashed beans; rajas, chipotle adobado, and a couple of salsas were brought to the table), it was astounding how good this hot-pressed and ever-so-slightly crispy sandwich tasted. With a bottle of water and an agua de tamarindo, the snack cost $58.
I’d recommend SuperTortas, and if we had had more time, and larger appetites, we would certainly have sampled a nearby corner spot recommended by Guadalupe, at La Casona de la China Poblana.
Although we were impressed by the offerings on display (the cemitas were huge!) at CEMITAS Y TORTAS LA POBLANITA, 5 Oriente, #401, at the corner of Calle 4 Sur, an area thronged with students, we will leave the actual sampling for the next trip.
About a 20-minute walk west from the Zocalo on Avenida 4 Poniente, rainbow-colored alphabet mosaics announce this conglomeration of dozens upon dozens of food stalls well laid out within airy, light-filled and spic and span premises that might remind some of a mall food court but whose vendors appeared to be offering “the real thing.”
We arrived around 5pm and things were shutting down but I would have returned had we more time in the city. Just across the avenue is one of the city’s main food markets, also near closing that late in the day.
LA CALLE DE LOS DULCES
After breakfast on our one full day in the city, the first order of business was to investigate La Calle de los Dulces, or the “street of sweets,” as Calle 6 Oriente in the vicinity of Calles 2 and 4 Norte is known.
Puebla is famous for sweets and the many of varieties are unique to the region, I believe.
(If you miss this street, there are several shops scattered throughout the city, as well as at the CAPU bus terminal). There are Tortitas de Santa Clara, mueganos, pepitorias, sugar-dusted gum drops, and perhaps the most emblematic: Camote, a sweet treat made from boiled sweet potato and sugar offered in a variety of flavors from strawberry to vanilla. Interesting, but perhaps more an acquired taste.
We visited a few of the shops that face each other along two blocks of Calle 6 Oriente, buying samples of a number of sweets along with a couple of pouches of prepared mole paste. The stores seemed to sell similar items and many were mobbed with domestic tourists; one we particularly liked was century-old LA GRAN FAMA.
SUPER TORTAS PUEBLA, Ave. 3 Poniente, #311
There are probably hundreds of addresses turning out tortas and the fluffier, sesame-studded cemitas and it’s hard to imagine that one can go too far wrong in this sandwich-obsessed city. We selected a recommendation from a random local that had also been lauded on a few Spanish-language sites.
Given the simplicity of the ingredients (we shared a torta of quesillo cheese, which also contained avocado and mashed beans; rajas, chipotle adobado, and a couple of salsas were brought to the table), it was astounding how good this hot-pressed and ever-so-slightly crispy sandwich tasted. With a bottle of water and an agua de tamarindo, the snack cost $58.
I’d recommend SuperTortas, and if we had had more time, and larger appetites, we would certainly have sampled a nearby corner spot recommended by Guadalupe, at La Casona de la China Poblana.
Although we were impressed by the offerings on display (the cemitas were huge!) at CEMITAS Y TORTAS LA POBLANITA, 5 Oriente, #401, at the corner of Calle 4 Sur, an area thronged with students, we will leave the actual sampling for the next trip.
Mar 1st, 2015, 06:40 PM
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No, there are not places like Las Ranas all over Puebla. There are other places, and I have tried many of them in both Puebla and Cholula over many trips over the yrs, but they are not anywhere near the tacos al pastor at Las Ranas. I dream often of those pork and piña juices dripping off my hands while eating tacos a pastor at Las Ranas.
Mar 2nd, 2015, 10:19 AM
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I know I've not written much about Puebla apart from what we ate. But even apart from the fabulous food, this city (third largest in Mexico but it feels rather more like a large town than a city, and all buildings we saw were no higher than a couple of stories; it is a manufacturing center but all industry appears to be located well outside the city limits).
Puebla is a jewel, its streets lined with rainbow-hued Colonial structures punctuated by Moorish-styled buildings and lots of green space including the lovely Zocalo. Just a gem, and so close and easy to access from Mexico City. We saw only a handful of foreign tourists so I surmise that for some reason this city is just overlooked by many travelers. Do not be among them, for this is a sage addition for anyone traveling to the DF. We spent only two nights there but that seemed about right, unless one wanted to venture to Cholula and other nearby destinations. Not to mention the glorious views of the volcanos from the road during the bus ride! And everywhere we went, locals were curious as to our impressions of their city, and appeared to be pleased to encounter foreign visitors. Many of those we met had an uncle, a father, a cousin, working in en "el otro lado," or on the "other side," meaning the US.
Mexico is one country where we encountered no anti-American sentiment at all!
Anyway, here are a few further details of our stay in Puebla:
GRAN CAFE CORAZON POBLANO 2 Norte, #211
I can’t say that I fell head over heels with the ice cream I tried in Puebla (and Oaxaca); for the most part, it was on the icy side. But we did sample a few cones and cups along the way, mainly to experiment with unusual flavors. This friendly neveria/coffee bar offered selections ranging from Camote (sweet potato), Tequila con Limon, and Mole to Tamarindo, Arroz con Leche and Maracuya (passion fruit). Small cup or cone, $12.
(see photo below, listing more flavors)
MURAL DE LOS POBLANOS
Reviews were all over the place on this restaurant, one of the more upscale choices in the historic Centro. I noticed that Noted Oaxacan Chef Raul Alexandre was scheduled to do a guest turn here shortly after our visit. I also noticed Mole Manchamateles con Pato on the posted menu, and I had been craving duck in mole ever since my partner had devoured his plate at Nico’s the week before.
This is a stunning restaurant, housed in the courtyard of yet another gorgeous colonial-style building and dominated by colorful sweeping murals of Poblano luminaries past and present. Beamed ceilings, terra cotta-colored walls, taped ranchera music, towering bouquets of gladioli, candlelight and well-spaced white-linen-dressed tables contribute to the romantic ambience. Surprisingly, we noticed only one other obvious tourist; there were tables of business people (a few of which had almost surely been occupying the same tables since the hour of comida, an observation we made quite a few times, at other restaurants, in other cities), a family or two, and a number of tables of dressed-up couples.
Dinner began with an amuse of salpicon de res with cow-milk cheese and tomato on a blue corn tortilla.
We continued with a pair of delicate soups: My partner was pleased with his chicken, while I wished that my Sopa de Quintonil (quintonil, or amaranth, turned up often during our meals; in this version, the waiter poured the broth over the raw leaves in my bowl) had had a bit more flavor and heft; with the addition of one of the added salsas, I liked it a lot better.
Tip for soup lovers: If you see Caldo Tlalpeno, or Caldo Xochitl on a menu, just go for it, witht he latter being my personal favorite. I jcannot say enough about the soups in Mexico!
The much-awaited Mole Manchamateles with duck, served with black beans and rice, was not only beautifully plated, complex, sweet and savory, and all around excellent. (photo, below right)
Agua de limon con chia was very watery, though.
Dining partner declined to order anything after the soup (suffering as he was from ever so slight digestive issues).
Total charge before tip was $395.
I liked this restaurant quite a bit; certainly a good address to remember if you want to linger over a leisurely meal. Just about a block or so from the Zocalo, on Calle 16 de Septiembre.
http://elmuraldelospoblanos.com/menu.php
I should add that during our stay, the city was rife with demonstrations protesting the disappearance (and probable murder) of the 43 students from the teacher's college in Guerrero. We watched from the sidelines and all was peaceful and in no way did this impact our trip, apart from touching us with sadness for the families of the students and all those impacted by the violence that has been visited upon this most glorious of countries. I clearly have held Mexico very dear to my heart for many decades.
NyTimes article on Puebla, but the lead photo gives a rather poor impression, as the center is a lot more manicured than it appears in this pic:
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/22/tr...xico.html?_r=0
On the morning after our second night, we took a taxi and headed for the main CAPU bus station and boarded an ADO Ejecutivo bus bound for Oaxaca. We had gotten somewhat of a discount by booking this leg along with the journey from the DF to Puebla, so the price of the trip to Oaxaca was about MP$288 per person. As I recall, the trip took about 5 hours and the journey in the first row of the bus was extremely pleasant and afforded wondrous views of the volcanos and of the increasingly sere landscape as we crossed from the state of Puebla to that of Oaxaca.
We had a decent enough breakfast at our hotel prior to departing. But in case you miss breakfast, or just want some snacks for the road, I did notice a likely looking spot for one last cemita or torta: RINCON POBLANO, on the right side as you enter the Capu station, near the entrance for the ADO and Estrella de Oro buses. And in case you did not have your fair share of Poblano sweets, these are also sold in the bus station.
Website for ADO buses; Estrella de Oro is another well-regarded line covering the routes from DF to Puebla and on to Oaxaca:
http://www.ado.com.mx/ado/index.jsp
Puebla is a jewel, its streets lined with rainbow-hued Colonial structures punctuated by Moorish-styled buildings and lots of green space including the lovely Zocalo. Just a gem, and so close and easy to access from Mexico City. We saw only a handful of foreign tourists so I surmise that for some reason this city is just overlooked by many travelers. Do not be among them, for this is a sage addition for anyone traveling to the DF. We spent only two nights there but that seemed about right, unless one wanted to venture to Cholula and other nearby destinations. Not to mention the glorious views of the volcanos from the road during the bus ride! And everywhere we went, locals were curious as to our impressions of their city, and appeared to be pleased to encounter foreign visitors. Many of those we met had an uncle, a father, a cousin, working in en "el otro lado," or on the "other side," meaning the US.
Mexico is one country where we encountered no anti-American sentiment at all!
Anyway, here are a few further details of our stay in Puebla:
GRAN CAFE CORAZON POBLANO 2 Norte, #211
I can’t say that I fell head over heels with the ice cream I tried in Puebla (and Oaxaca); for the most part, it was on the icy side. But we did sample a few cones and cups along the way, mainly to experiment with unusual flavors. This friendly neveria/coffee bar offered selections ranging from Camote (sweet potato), Tequila con Limon, and Mole to Tamarindo, Arroz con Leche and Maracuya (passion fruit). Small cup or cone, $12.
(see photo below, listing more flavors)
MURAL DE LOS POBLANOS
Reviews were all over the place on this restaurant, one of the more upscale choices in the historic Centro. I noticed that Noted Oaxacan Chef Raul Alexandre was scheduled to do a guest turn here shortly after our visit. I also noticed Mole Manchamateles con Pato on the posted menu, and I had been craving duck in mole ever since my partner had devoured his plate at Nico’s the week before.
This is a stunning restaurant, housed in the courtyard of yet another gorgeous colonial-style building and dominated by colorful sweeping murals of Poblano luminaries past and present. Beamed ceilings, terra cotta-colored walls, taped ranchera music, towering bouquets of gladioli, candlelight and well-spaced white-linen-dressed tables contribute to the romantic ambience. Surprisingly, we noticed only one other obvious tourist; there were tables of business people (a few of which had almost surely been occupying the same tables since the hour of comida, an observation we made quite a few times, at other restaurants, in other cities), a family or two, and a number of tables of dressed-up couples.
Dinner began with an amuse of salpicon de res with cow-milk cheese and tomato on a blue corn tortilla.
We continued with a pair of delicate soups: My partner was pleased with his chicken, while I wished that my Sopa de Quintonil (quintonil, or amaranth, turned up often during our meals; in this version, the waiter poured the broth over the raw leaves in my bowl) had had a bit more flavor and heft; with the addition of one of the added salsas, I liked it a lot better.
Tip for soup lovers: If you see Caldo Tlalpeno, or Caldo Xochitl on a menu, just go for it, witht he latter being my personal favorite. I jcannot say enough about the soups in Mexico!
The much-awaited Mole Manchamateles with duck, served with black beans and rice, was not only beautifully plated, complex, sweet and savory, and all around excellent. (photo, below right)
Agua de limon con chia was very watery, though.
Dining partner declined to order anything after the soup (suffering as he was from ever so slight digestive issues).
Total charge before tip was $395.
I liked this restaurant quite a bit; certainly a good address to remember if you want to linger over a leisurely meal. Just about a block or so from the Zocalo, on Calle 16 de Septiembre.
http://elmuraldelospoblanos.com/menu.php
I should add that during our stay, the city was rife with demonstrations protesting the disappearance (and probable murder) of the 43 students from the teacher's college in Guerrero. We watched from the sidelines and all was peaceful and in no way did this impact our trip, apart from touching us with sadness for the families of the students and all those impacted by the violence that has been visited upon this most glorious of countries. I clearly have held Mexico very dear to my heart for many decades.
NyTimes article on Puebla, but the lead photo gives a rather poor impression, as the center is a lot more manicured than it appears in this pic:
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/22/tr...xico.html?_r=0
On the morning after our second night, we took a taxi and headed for the main CAPU bus station and boarded an ADO Ejecutivo bus bound for Oaxaca. We had gotten somewhat of a discount by booking this leg along with the journey from the DF to Puebla, so the price of the trip to Oaxaca was about MP$288 per person. As I recall, the trip took about 5 hours and the journey in the first row of the bus was extremely pleasant and afforded wondrous views of the volcanos and of the increasingly sere landscape as we crossed from the state of Puebla to that of Oaxaca.
We had a decent enough breakfast at our hotel prior to departing. But in case you miss breakfast, or just want some snacks for the road, I did notice a likely looking spot for one last cemita or torta: RINCON POBLANO, on the right side as you enter the Capu station, near the entrance for the ADO and Estrella de Oro buses. And in case you did not have your fair share of Poblano sweets, these are also sold in the bus station.
Website for ADO buses; Estrella de Oro is another well-regarded line covering the routes from DF to Puebla and on to Oaxaca:
http://www.ado.com.mx/ado/index.jsp
Mar 2nd, 2015, 10:55 AM
#55
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Correction about bus from Puebla to Oaxaca:
Our ADO bus departed Puebla at 10:45am and arrived in Oaxaca at 2:20pm.
From the bus station, the taxi to Casa Oaxaca, which would be our lodging for the next 7 nights, cost MP$50.
Behind its unassuming pale blue facade, this small European-owned and Mexican run hostelry, revealed itself to be among the most enchanting properties I've experienced as a guest. Prices are high; ratio of price to value is very high as well. Highly recommended.
Plus, the wool bedspreads hand woven in the nearby village of Teotitlan are the handsomest I've seen in any hotel. Anywhere!
http://www.en.casaoaxaca.com.mx/
We were welcomed by the gracious Istmeno (sorry, Adrid for lack of tilde) Adrid, who would point us to various restaurants and points of interest during our week-long stay and who bore a decanter of house-made mezcal as a much appreciated welcome to our room, #4, fronting the courtyard.
After more than two decades, I was back in Oaxaca! I could barely contain my enthusiasm.
Our first meal in the city would be at RESTAURANTE CATEDRAL, a venerable eatery, open throughout the day which suited us well after our long bus ride. Recommended for reliable dining in a rambling, multi-roomed Colonial structure just north of the Zocalo. There are interior rooms but we much preferred dining with the sound of the tinkling fountain in the courtyard, and at the early hour of about 5pm, we were among the only diners present, apart from a few local holdovers from lunch and, therefore, reaped the benefit of solicitous service throughout our light dinner.
(more soon...)
http://www.restaurantecatedral.com.mx/el-restaurante/
Our ADO bus departed Puebla at 10:45am and arrived in Oaxaca at 2:20pm.
From the bus station, the taxi to Casa Oaxaca, which would be our lodging for the next 7 nights, cost MP$50.
Behind its unassuming pale blue facade, this small European-owned and Mexican run hostelry, revealed itself to be among the most enchanting properties I've experienced as a guest. Prices are high; ratio of price to value is very high as well. Highly recommended.
Plus, the wool bedspreads hand woven in the nearby village of Teotitlan are the handsomest I've seen in any hotel. Anywhere!
http://www.en.casaoaxaca.com.mx/
We were welcomed by the gracious Istmeno (sorry, Adrid for lack of tilde) Adrid, who would point us to various restaurants and points of interest during our week-long stay and who bore a decanter of house-made mezcal as a much appreciated welcome to our room, #4, fronting the courtyard.
After more than two decades, I was back in Oaxaca! I could barely contain my enthusiasm.
Our first meal in the city would be at RESTAURANTE CATEDRAL, a venerable eatery, open throughout the day which suited us well after our long bus ride. Recommended for reliable dining in a rambling, multi-roomed Colonial structure just north of the Zocalo. There are interior rooms but we much preferred dining with the sound of the tinkling fountain in the courtyard, and at the early hour of about 5pm, we were among the only diners present, apart from a few local holdovers from lunch and, therefore, reaped the benefit of solicitous service throughout our light dinner.
(more soon...)
http://www.restaurantecatedral.com.mx/el-restaurante/
Mar 3rd, 2015, 10:14 AM
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Yes, and there are beautiful views from the bus....both from DF to Puebla and from Puebla to Oaxaca.
I should mention that we did run into lots of traffic leaving the DF, en route to Puebla.
From Puebla to Oaxaca, some advised returning to the airport MEX and flying to Oaxaca, but I was very glad that we chose the bus.
I should mention that we did run into lots of traffic leaving the DF, en route to Puebla.
From Puebla to Oaxaca, some advised returning to the airport MEX and flying to Oaxaca, but I was very glad that we chose the bus.
Mar 3rd, 2015, 01:37 PM
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Continuing to enjoy your report, eks! We're just back from 5 weeks in Mexico (Oaxaca beach, Oaxaca, Puebla, and Mexico City), preceded by 4 in Colombia.
Went to Las Ranas in Puebla for lunch on my bday. Just love love those tacos al pastor . .. con pina.
Catedral was new to us this time in Oaxaca and we really enjoyed it (ate there twice) - ditto Mural de los Poblanos in Puebla. We had been in and out of Puebla a few times before and thought it lovely. Still, this time it seemed even more beautiful somehow. Seems rather calm, civilized, elegant. Such beautiful buildings.
Enjoyed dinner at La Teca in Oaxaca with yestravel - thanks to your recommendation. Maybe she'll chime in with a more specific review - I know I liked most of what we at on the tasting menu - but have lost the details. . . .
Went to Las Ranas in Puebla for lunch on my bday. Just love love those tacos al pastor . .. con pina.
Catedral was new to us this time in Oaxaca and we really enjoyed it (ate there twice) - ditto Mural de los Poblanos in Puebla. We had been in and out of Puebla a few times before and thought it lovely. Still, this time it seemed even more beautiful somehow. Seems rather calm, civilized, elegant. Such beautiful buildings.
Enjoyed dinner at La Teca in Oaxaca with yestravel - thanks to your recommendation. Maybe she'll chime in with a more specific review - I know I liked most of what we at on the tasting menu - but have lost the details. . . .
Mar 6th, 2015, 05:11 PM
#59
This is my kind of report! Glad I came surfing and besides thanks, I wanted to make sure I bookmarked it. Enjoyed reading it.
Gosh, I miss Mexico. I can still taste the tacos Arabe on Puebla's Zocalo and I'd love to get back over to Cholula and the pyramid again.
We didn't see many foreigners when we were there either.
Gosh, I miss Mexico. I can still taste the tacos Arabe on Puebla's Zocalo and I'd love to get back over to Cholula and the pyramid again.
We didn't see many foreigners when we were there either.
