A cockroach, a Gecko, a crab, and a Tarantula. Faithie's adventure in Panama!
Jul 14th, 2007, 09:19 AM
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Hi faithie -- Didn't think you'd get away that easy, did you? 
If you have time to post a few highlights of the rest of your trip, that would be great! I'm just in the beginning stages of planning a trip back to CR next year with my 10 year old, and trying to figure out how feasible it would be to combine it with a few days in Panama.
Any ideas are appreciated!
If you have time to post a few highlights of the rest of your trip, that would be great! I'm just in the beginning stages of planning a trip back to CR next year with my 10 year old, and trying to figure out how feasible it would be to combine it with a few days in Panama.
Any ideas are appreciated!
Jul 14th, 2007, 01:17 PM
#23
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Ok
The first morning in Panama we decided to use the same cab driver as the night before to take us from PC to La Guaira, 2.5 hours away on the Caribbean Coast. On the way we made arrangements to stop for an hour in Portobelo. When we had chatted and arrranged things the night previous he quoted $80 US roundtrip including the stop. This seemed reasonable and we really wanted to get there thus the "bus" idea was reserved for the return to PC.
As we made our way through the city at rushour we had time to look around and were impressed at what a large cosmopolitan city it is. We passed through the Canal Zone area with its rows of wooden houses, it looked very nice. We would pass through certain areas and the cabbie explained that before the canal was handed over the whole area was off limits to Panamanians. It was basically US soil. That was a strange thought....Signs of the canal were everywhere at first as you exit the city to go across the isthmus you follow the canal, truly impressive.
VERY quickly you enter lush, steamy jungle very similar to Costa Rica, this is within minutes of the downtown core and will never be developed as the rain etc it generates is necessary for the canal. The roads were great and well marked and is dotted with HUNDREDS of signs advertising shops in the Free-zone in Colon. Our cabbie was not very talkative and a little serious so I just hoped the kids did NOT need a pee stop!!
More later, suppertime!
The first morning in Panama we decided to use the same cab driver as the night before to take us from PC to La Guaira, 2.5 hours away on the Caribbean Coast. On the way we made arrangements to stop for an hour in Portobelo. When we had chatted and arrranged things the night previous he quoted $80 US roundtrip including the stop. This seemed reasonable and we really wanted to get there thus the "bus" idea was reserved for the return to PC.
As we made our way through the city at rushour we had time to look around and were impressed at what a large cosmopolitan city it is. We passed through the Canal Zone area with its rows of wooden houses, it looked very nice. We would pass through certain areas and the cabbie explained that before the canal was handed over the whole area was off limits to Panamanians. It was basically US soil. That was a strange thought....Signs of the canal were everywhere at first as you exit the city to go across the isthmus you follow the canal, truly impressive.
VERY quickly you enter lush, steamy jungle very similar to Costa Rica, this is within minutes of the downtown core and will never be developed as the rain etc it generates is necessary for the canal. The roads were great and well marked and is dotted with HUNDREDS of signs advertising shops in the Free-zone in Colon. Our cabbie was not very talkative and a little serious so I just hoped the kids did NOT need a pee stop!!
More later, suppertime!
Jul 14th, 2007, 03:29 PM
#24
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We found the countryside very similar to Costa Rica, the style of housing we saw, the hills and jungle seemed familar. We did see areas of intense poverty which is obviously a sad sight.
Once past the turn off from Colon in the direction of Portobelo things became even prettier, very lush, very "up & down", and steamy hot. At this point the roads became VERY bad and I'm suprised the little Toyata sedan did not get lost innside one of the potholes!!! At this point we felt REALLY really off the beaten track. As we reached the outskirts of Portobelo after about 2.5 hrs we saw the first of an old fortress, covered in jungle vines at the edge of the blue Caribbean, how cool is that! The old fort and museum is special to see, it was INCREDIBLY hot and little children followed us about trying to sell shell necklaces for $1 a piece. We ended up buying from every child we saw, 10 from one great little saleslady!! How could we resist, it was mostly our children who insisted but we had no issues.
After an hour or so we were melting and decided to push on to La Guaira to catch the boat to " Isla Grande". This was approx. 45 minutes further on and we had to ask a few times where to catch the boat as our cabbie was not certain. We finally find the place and we instantly have lots of hands ready to help, this can be confusing as you wonder "Who's who". We finally hire our captain who appeared 14 and his first mate maybe 10. I was ok with this until I looked at the SWELL and realized the boat was a brightly painted dory! Uhhhh.... lifevest please?
The island itself was not that far from the mainland but once inside that boat and I was on the bottom of the first swell it seemed a million miles away. I was FROZEN in fear, I mean seriously scared. The swells were huge! I literally put my head down, closed my eyes and started saying the Lords Prayer! My children were trying to get my attention completely unphased by the Titantic sized waves, questioning my "strangeness", I promptly snapped back that they could not speak to me. Period.
Once past the turn off from Colon in the direction of Portobelo things became even prettier, very lush, very "up & down", and steamy hot. At this point the roads became VERY bad and I'm suprised the little Toyata sedan did not get lost innside one of the potholes!!! At this point we felt REALLY really off the beaten track. As we reached the outskirts of Portobelo after about 2.5 hrs we saw the first of an old fortress, covered in jungle vines at the edge of the blue Caribbean, how cool is that! The old fort and museum is special to see, it was INCREDIBLY hot and little children followed us about trying to sell shell necklaces for $1 a piece. We ended up buying from every child we saw, 10 from one great little saleslady!! How could we resist, it was mostly our children who insisted but we had no issues.
After an hour or so we were melting and decided to push on to La Guaira to catch the boat to " Isla Grande". This was approx. 45 minutes further on and we had to ask a few times where to catch the boat as our cabbie was not certain. We finally find the place and we instantly have lots of hands ready to help, this can be confusing as you wonder "Who's who". We finally hire our captain who appeared 14 and his first mate maybe 10. I was ok with this until I looked at the SWELL and realized the boat was a brightly painted dory! Uhhhh.... lifevest please?
The island itself was not that far from the mainland but once inside that boat and I was on the bottom of the first swell it seemed a million miles away. I was FROZEN in fear, I mean seriously scared. The swells were huge! I literally put my head down, closed my eyes and started saying the Lords Prayer! My children were trying to get my attention completely unphased by the Titantic sized waves, questioning my "strangeness", I promptly snapped back that they could not speak to me. Period.
Jul 14th, 2007, 03:47 PM
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After what seemed a million years and certain death we reached Isla Grande(in truth not ver far from mainland remember) It looked small, very green and pretty with brightly painted quirky buildings scattered the length of the island. We continued past these in the cursed boat with our underage captains, would they EVER let us off!?
We round a bend and see a small dock, I think "how civilized" but no.... we continue past this and he waits for the correct wave and we roll up onto a beach. Ahhh, memories of Yelapa Mexico, "Jump"! Francois throws the luggage ashore, then 1 child , and the next. Huge surf is crashing at this end of the island, known as the surfers beach. We're here. After hours of research, with information very hard to gather, basically crossing our fingers and going by the seat of our pants we are standing on a very tiny Caribbean island off the coast of Panama. Cool.
We round a bend and see a small dock, I think "how civilized" but no.... we continue past this and he waits for the correct wave and we roll up onto a beach. Ahhh, memories of Yelapa Mexico, "Jump"! Francois throws the luggage ashore, then 1 child , and the next. Huge surf is crashing at this end of the island, known as the surfers beach. We're here. After hours of research, with information very hard to gather, basically crossing our fingers and going by the seat of our pants we are standing on a very tiny Caribbean island off the coast of Panama. Cool.
Jul 14th, 2007, 04:05 PM
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WE stand alone on the tiny rocky beach and I point up the hill as I see Hotel Sister Moon exactly as it looked in pics on the internet. There are no cars, no roads, just a winding small path leading up to a jumble of tiny huts perched on a palm strewn hillside. We put our backpacks on our stomachs, the luggage on our backs(brought just 2 suitcases for the 4)
It's heavy but we're tough! It is so exciting not quite knowing what your getting into! As we get closer I realize(as expected) it's a little rough sround thge edges, it needs some TLC for sure, it's not that it was not kept clean or maintained... just needs a little $$ put into it. But we were ok with that. It certainly has its charms, incredible views, crashing surf, swaying palms, lots of potential in this place but its well off the beaten track which will hopefully keep it as it is. Welcome to "Hotel Sister Moon", Isla Grande Panama!
It's heavy but we're tough! It is so exciting not quite knowing what your getting into! As we get closer I realize(as expected) it's a little rough sround thge edges, it needs some TLC for sure, it's not that it was not kept clean or maintained... just needs a little $$ put into it. But we were ok with that. It certainly has its charms, incredible views, crashing surf, swaying palms, lots of potential in this place but its well off the beaten track which will hopefully keep it as it is. Welcome to "Hotel Sister Moon", Isla Grande Panama!
Jul 14th, 2007, 04:24 PM
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"Hola?!" " Hola!?" The place appears empty, not a soul in sight. The bags are REALLY heavy at this point so we put them down to more easily search for someone to help. WHERE have I taken my children?
Things are on lots of different levels as the restaurant/reception building is perched on the very steep hillside as well, we can feel the spray from the surf and feel it on the surfaces we touch, it's all good. We finally find a lady, and as expected she speaks no English(this is OK but a big difference from Costa Rica where so many speak English, just a comparison). She seems slightly confused by us, like she's not sure what to do with us exactly. I had the feeling we were an oddity. We finally get our room straightened away and she takes us to a 2 story thatch roof hut with a little balcony and colorful hammock. The view is down to the beach and across to the mainland of Panama.
We open the large wooden doors after unlocking the very tiny padlock, the hut has terra cotta tiled floors, it's painted a very pretty bright blue, the quirky bathroom has stone walls and as you sit on the toilet you are actually IN the shower! More on that later.
The first tiny floor has 2 mismatched twin beds & a small table and a fan, up the steep wooden stair/ladder is the 2nd floor with cathredral thatch ceiling and fan, 1 double bed and 1 single. There is a shelf with clean fluffy towels and thats about it.
Hmmm.... the screens were not fully attatched in places, no mousquito net, teensy weensy lock, was I REALLY a girl who could "rough it"?
Things are on lots of different levels as the restaurant/reception building is perched on the very steep hillside as well, we can feel the spray from the surf and feel it on the surfaces we touch, it's all good. We finally find a lady, and as expected she speaks no English(this is OK but a big difference from Costa Rica where so many speak English, just a comparison). She seems slightly confused by us, like she's not sure what to do with us exactly. I had the feeling we were an oddity. We finally get our room straightened away and she takes us to a 2 story thatch roof hut with a little balcony and colorful hammock. The view is down to the beach and across to the mainland of Panama.
We open the large wooden doors after unlocking the very tiny padlock, the hut has terra cotta tiled floors, it's painted a very pretty bright blue, the quirky bathroom has stone walls and as you sit on the toilet you are actually IN the shower! More on that later.
The first tiny floor has 2 mismatched twin beds & a small table and a fan, up the steep wooden stair/ladder is the 2nd floor with cathredral thatch ceiling and fan, 1 double bed and 1 single. There is a shelf with clean fluffy towels and thats about it.
Hmmm.... the screens were not fully attatched in places, no mousquito net, teensy weensy lock, was I REALLY a girl who could "rough it"?
Jul 14th, 2007, 05:17 PM
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All three give me the questioning look, "Will she like it"? I give a weak thumbs up and with shaky voice squeek "It's great..?" Still not certain. We change, organize ourselves, and head to the "pool" area to scope out the menu while the kids swim. No-one is ever really at the little bar to serve you, you need to find someone and they will then take care of you. We did not think of these things as "bad service" at all, just the way things are done. We found people pretty reserved and that's ok as well, I don't need anyone to fall all over me.
The kids take a swim in the tiny kidney shaped pool perched precariously over a rocky ledge, the surround of the pool is done puzzle style with chunky rocks, and this is NO place to need stitches. "Willem, DON'T run!" But it's a cool, funky pool, matching the cool, funky little hotel. The place is growing on me.
Next up, the walk to "town" for dinner.
The kids take a swim in the tiny kidney shaped pool perched precariously over a rocky ledge, the surround of the pool is done puzzle style with chunky rocks, and this is NO place to need stitches. "Willem, DON'T run!" But it's a cool, funky pool, matching the cool, funky little hotel. The place is growing on me.
Next up, the walk to "town" for dinner.
Jul 15th, 2007, 10:30 AM
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We decide to take the walk along the narrow path that stretches along the length of the island to town for dinner. Along the path are a collection of tiny houses and cottages and finally little hotels that cater mostly to Panamanians on the weekends.
We find a restaurant on the water(all are on the water)and order our meals of fish and chicken, etc.. We wait, and wait, and WAIT. Finally it arrives and were we glad we waited! Conch, shrimp, red snapper, coconut rice, mangoe salad..... It was SOOOO good, and at $5 a plate who could complain, we were on island time. We were the only people in the restaurant, in fact the only tourists we saw! Supper was a success, the children now devoted fish lovers, what a lot of butter, fresh fish and garlic will do, my mouth is watering now.
After our meal we continue the walk towards town, which really is just a cluster of houses , restaurants and shops strung along the dirt path that runs on the side of the island facing the mainland of Panama. This is a very simple place, if your a 4 Seasons kinda person and nothing else do not even bother. This is not for you. Children were playing baseball, soccer and other games, giving us the "once over".... We are basically walking through their front yard, we nod and smile and greet with "Buena" and it's politely returned.
Before exploring further we realize it's now dark, very dark and we need to make it back to the other end of the island to Sister Moon along a narrow rocky path. With 2 children, in Central America, on a tiny island in the middle of nowhere. Bella asks, "Are there snakes mommy"? THAT was not a part of my research.
We find a restaurant on the water(all are on the water)and order our meals of fish and chicken, etc.. We wait, and wait, and WAIT. Finally it arrives and were we glad we waited! Conch, shrimp, red snapper, coconut rice, mangoe salad..... It was SOOOO good, and at $5 a plate who could complain, we were on island time. We were the only people in the restaurant, in fact the only tourists we saw! Supper was a success, the children now devoted fish lovers, what a lot of butter, fresh fish and garlic will do, my mouth is watering now.
After our meal we continue the walk towards town, which really is just a cluster of houses , restaurants and shops strung along the dirt path that runs on the side of the island facing the mainland of Panama. This is a very simple place, if your a 4 Seasons kinda person and nothing else do not even bother. This is not for you. Children were playing baseball, soccer and other games, giving us the "once over".... We are basically walking through their front yard, we nod and smile and greet with "Buena" and it's politely returned.
Before exploring further we realize it's now dark, very dark and we need to make it back to the other end of the island to Sister Moon along a narrow rocky path. With 2 children, in Central America, on a tiny island in the middle of nowhere. Bella asks, "Are there snakes mommy"? THAT was not a part of my research.
Jul 15th, 2007, 11:26 AM
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faithie -- Fantastic trip report...thank you for continuing it! Sister Moon sounds terrific. I checked out their website too. Love it! BTW, you're making MY mouth water too Sounds like the kids are little explorer also!
Sounds like the kids are little explorer also!
Jul 16th, 2007, 07:18 AM
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Hi Guys!
In comparison Yelapa is very much "on the beaten track" compared to Isla Grande. And Hotel Lagunita more "luxe" and LESS rustic that Hotel Sister Moon. Hotel Sister Moon must have been a little gem when newly built, but you need to be fairly adventurous and open minded to enjoy a visit to Isla Grande.
We loved it, although it took me a few minutes to adjust, I realized that sheets were fresh and spotless, towels smelled of Tide, floor and bathrooms were squeaky clean, the place had just seen better days. But at $65 a day for 4 persons including tax and breakfast, it was A-OK.
Hip, thats a new website they have, it was not around when we went. Our "spanglish" e-mails back and forth are hilarious, it was great.
In comparison Yelapa is very much "on the beaten track" compared to Isla Grande. And Hotel Lagunita more "luxe" and LESS rustic that Hotel Sister Moon. Hotel Sister Moon must have been a little gem when newly built, but you need to be fairly adventurous and open minded to enjoy a visit to Isla Grande.
We loved it, although it took me a few minutes to adjust, I realized that sheets were fresh and spotless, towels smelled of Tide, floor and bathrooms were squeaky clean, the place had just seen better days. But at $65 a day for 4 persons including tax and breakfast, it was A-OK.
Hip, thats a new website they have, it was not around when we went. Our "spanglish" e-mails back and forth are hilarious, it was great.
Jul 16th, 2007, 07:35 AM
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The walk back in the dark was an adventure, lit by the moon and a tiny flashlight I lead the way, kids in the middle and Francois in back. It was really dark and trying to find foothold difficult, but it was fun. We had asked at the hotel if this was a wise and safe thing to do and were advised it was safe, but we were still a little nervous. We met a few people face on and would have to squish to the side to let them pass, they would smile and greet us. Whew!
One night as I lead the way I saw HUGE jumping critters in front of me but in the darkness could not distinguish what it was. Did I yell, lol!!! Finally we saw that the path was literally hopping with giant toads, everywhere.... This would become a nightly routine as we returned from our restaurant of choice.
One night as I lead the way I saw HUGE jumping critters in front of me but in the darkness could not distinguish what it was. Did I yell, lol!!! Finally we saw that the path was literally hopping with giant toads, everywhere.... This would become a nightly routine as we returned from our restaurant of choice.
Jul 16th, 2007, 12:25 PM
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This tiny isle of approx 300 are decendants of African slaves who escaped when they reached the new world so were never actually enslaved. They lived among the native indians of the area and eventually many settled on Isla Grande.
They are mainly fisherman and coconut gatherers, both which we were able to take advantage of daily. We would literally see our supper arrive in hand, to go along with a delicious order of "coconut rice". We tried a different restaurant almost every night, some were simply in someones house. Through the week we were almost the only people around, it was an incredibly unique expeirence. I never ate so well or had food taste so good, yum, yum, YUM!
Come the weekend things changed a lot, it was a party!
They are mainly fisherman and coconut gatherers, both which we were able to take advantage of daily. We would literally see our supper arrive in hand, to go along with a delicious order of "coconut rice". We tried a different restaurant almost every night, some were simply in someones house. Through the week we were almost the only people around, it was an incredibly unique expeirence. I never ate so well or had food taste so good, yum, yum, YUM!
Come the weekend things changed a lot, it was a party!
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