5 Weeks in Chocolate Paradise
Apr 15th, 2014, 08:23 AM
#23
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Spent the next several days hanging with my new amigos, exploring El Central, checking out the huge market across the highway, even though I was told not to go due to pickpockets etc. Had no problems, visited the second class bus station, even by accident I walked down one of the "hooker" streets with Ladies of the Evening (this mid morning) spaced every 10' or so displaying there "wares".
Attended The Juarez Park Friday market a interesting mix of arts, crafts & food items. I am always fascinated by the wonderful mix of colors.
Had lunch across the street at 100% Fresh one of the few chain restaurants I eat at.
Found the Lending Library a bit of the US in the heart of Oaxaca.Lots of books to rent for a small fee but as I had several of my own to read did not get any. I did however see a poster announcing The Saint Petersburg, Russia Ballet's performance of Swan Lake in early March. Went immediately to The Juarez Theatre getting third row seats.
Next Linda's arrival
Attended The Juarez Park Friday market a interesting mix of arts, crafts & food items. I am always fascinated by the wonderful mix of colors.
Had lunch across the street at 100% Fresh one of the few chain restaurants I eat at.
Found the Lending Library a bit of the US in the heart of Oaxaca.Lots of books to rent for a small fee but as I had several of my own to read did not get any. I did however see a poster announcing The Saint Petersburg, Russia Ballet's performance of Swan Lake in early March. Went immediately to The Juarez Theatre getting third row seats.
Next Linda's arrival
Apr 16th, 2014, 12:22 PM
#24
Any coincidence you did hooker street before the arrival of la esposa? BTW, in Spanish "esposas" means handcuffs, just so you know.
Hierve el Agua is worthwhile if you can get there; picnic with the locals. The ex-convento in Cuilapan where Guerrero was executed is worth a visit, too. CASA (Centro de las Artes de San Agustin) is nice as well, it's a textile mill converted into an art center in San Agustin Etla. Try a coctel Donaji before you leave, just to say you did. But it has to have sal de gusano instead of the regular salt.
Hierve el Agua is worthwhile if you can get there; picnic with the locals. The ex-convento in Cuilapan where Guerrero was executed is worth a visit, too. CASA (Centro de las Artes de San Agustin) is nice as well, it's a textile mill converted into an art center in San Agustin Etla. Try a coctel Donaji before you leave, just to say you did. But it has to have sal de gusano instead of the regular salt.
Apr 16th, 2014, 02:09 PM
#25
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Hardly, At 71 trying to keep one gal happy is a full time job.
BE patient Hierve el Agua is coming up. Many (most) of the valley stuff I waited on until Linda arrived.
PS Saw a second "Hooker" block just down from the Artisa Market with my dear wife in tow. Kind of amazed me as while I over the years have observed an occasional "lady of the Night" I have never been anywhere in Mexico so open & blatant.
Kind of reminded of North Michigan in Chicago where the prettiest Professional gals walk And no I only observed there also never partaking
BE patient Hierve el Agua is coming up. Many (most) of the valley stuff I waited on until Linda arrived.
PS Saw a second "Hooker" block just down from the Artisa Market with my dear wife in tow. Kind of amazed me as while I over the years have observed an occasional "lady of the Night" I have never been anywhere in Mexico so open & blatant.
Kind of reminded of North Michigan in Chicago where the prettiest Professional gals walk And no I only observed there also never partaking
Apr 21st, 2014, 06:41 AM
#26
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Linda's plane was scheduled to arrive at 10:00 PM. Left apartment an hour before picking up a cab but a block from my door arranging the trip for 120 pesos for the 20 minute drive to the small but excellent airport.
Spent my wait time have a coffee in the pleasant cafe. Efficient Aeromexico was on time & my bride was soon through the arrival gate & in my arms. Been almost 5 weeks so a most Joyce reunion!
Caught the collectivo back for 60 pesos per. It was backed so my DW "rode" the hump in the front seat with me snuggled by the door for the short ride home. Letting her sleep a couple of hours after her over night flight I went for a walk returning to hear her in the shower.
After she dressed it's off to The Zocalo, Juarez Market & other sights. Home after a light lunch.
WARNING GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION DO NOT READ IF FAINT OF HEART!
We took a nap before dinner but I soon was suffering an extreme bout of Montezuma's Revenge. I was soon hanging in the bathroom reliving myself from both ends. Food (Paella) that I had 2 days before was coming out completely undigested! This is but the third bout of something similar in 27 years of Mexican travel but the only time I did not do something to cause it by poor judgement.
Once my stomach had emptied I was able to take a prescription drug that Linda had brought down. It quickly cleared up the "Revenge".
So no Dinner for me that night.
Next Linda's first full day
Spent my wait time have a coffee in the pleasant cafe. Efficient Aeromexico was on time & my bride was soon through the arrival gate & in my arms. Been almost 5 weeks so a most Joyce reunion!
Caught the collectivo back for 60 pesos per. It was backed so my DW "rode" the hump in the front seat with me snuggled by the door for the short ride home. Letting her sleep a couple of hours after her over night flight I went for a walk returning to hear her in the shower.
After she dressed it's off to The Zocalo, Juarez Market & other sights. Home after a light lunch.
WARNING GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION DO NOT READ IF FAINT OF HEART!
We took a nap before dinner but I soon was suffering an extreme bout of Montezuma's Revenge. I was soon hanging in the bathroom reliving myself from both ends. Food (Paella) that I had 2 days before was coming out completely undigested! This is but the third bout of something similar in 27 years of Mexican travel but the only time I did not do something to cause it by poor judgement.
Once my stomach had emptied I was able to take a prescription drug that Linda had brought down. It quickly cleared up the "Revenge".
So no Dinner for me that night.
Next Linda's first full day
Apr 24th, 2014, 09:16 AM
#28
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Not sure but it is something she proscribed for our trip to Peru last November. Fortunately it was not need on the trip or since my incidence.
First time I caught this when I was not at fault. First time 12 years ago I stupidly ate a slice of unpeeled cucumber in Manzanillo & 3 years ago I failed to properly soak a head of lettuce in Zihuatanejo. So 3 times in 28 years is not so bad.
First time I caught this when I was not at fault. First time 12 years ago I stupidly ate a slice of unpeeled cucumber in Manzanillo & 3 years ago I failed to properly soak a head of lettuce in Zihuatanejo. So 3 times in 28 years is not so bad.
Apr 24th, 2014, 09:43 AM
#29
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Not sure but it is something she proscribed for our trip to Peru last November. Fortunately it was not need on the trip or since my incidence.
First time I caught this when I was not at fault. First time 12 years ago I stupidly ate a slice of unpeeled cucumber in Manzanillo & 3 years ago I failed to properly soak a head of lettuce in Zihuatanejo. So 3 times in 28 years is not so bad.
First time I caught this when I was not at fault. First time 12 years ago I stupidly ate a slice of unpeeled cucumber in Manzanillo & 3 years ago I failed to properly soak a head of lettuce in Zihuatanejo. So 3 times in 28 years is not so bad.
Apr 24th, 2014, 09:56 AM
#30
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First full day was out for breakfast then a full day of Mercado & shops with a bit of sight seeing in between.
Linda was overjoyed at the huge selection of hand made clothing items, art work, pottery & all else.
One of our stops was at the Artisa Market. While I waited down the street at one of the Chocolate Shops enjoying my new favorite drink. She showed up after about an hour asking me to return with her to meet a wonderful gentleman she had met.
Thus I was introduced to Manuel a most accomplished third generation rug weaver. Manuel offered not only to take us out to his village home but to guide us elsewhere providing us with a driver at a very reasonable cost. I had checked some rates for private drivers & his drivers rate was a good 20% cheaper.
So Began a wonderful friendship.
We arranged to take our first trip 2 days later as I had promised Linda a trip to Monte Alban for the next day. She enjoyed this as much as I.
Next Hierve el Aqua, Mitla, Santa Ana del Valle & more.
Linda was overjoyed at the huge selection of hand made clothing items, art work, pottery & all else.
One of our stops was at the Artisa Market. While I waited down the street at one of the Chocolate Shops enjoying my new favorite drink. She showed up after about an hour asking me to return with her to meet a wonderful gentleman she had met.
Thus I was introduced to Manuel a most accomplished third generation rug weaver. Manuel offered not only to take us out to his village home but to guide us elsewhere providing us with a driver at a very reasonable cost. I had checked some rates for private drivers & his drivers rate was a good 20% cheaper.
So Began a wonderful friendship.
We arranged to take our first trip 2 days later as I had promised Linda a trip to Monte Alban for the next day. She enjoyed this as much as I.
Next Hierve el Aqua, Mitla, Santa Ana del Valle & more.
Apr 24th, 2014, 10:42 AM
#31
I think you'll find Santa Ana somewhat of a letdown, at least as compared to Teotitlan. Maybe you've already planned on Teotitlan; the casa of Manual?). Casa Santiago (in town on the right as you enter) has as nice a selection of rugs as any other taller, plus they forgo the dog and pony show of the dyeing, etc. which is OK, but seems (to me) more oriented towards tour groups rather than showing you a large selection of rugs.
Apr 26th, 2014, 07:19 AM
#32
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Up early the next AM with breakfast at home. Manuel & his driver were on time so off first to Hierve el Aqua. The direct route was either closed by construction or protesters we heard both, but our driver knew a back way. A bit bumpy so a long trip, a stop at the gate to "Pay" the 10 peso road fee demanded by locals for Linda & I, but our two Mexican friends no charge we arrived.
Mixed review. While lovely scenery & the pools, calcified falls are indeed fascinating the whole area had a rather forlorn deserted appearance.
The large man made pool surrounded by empty cabanas had no water in it. Not sure if it was never finished or still being worked on. The Restrooms were immaculate so it was obvious they are maintained, but not a soul to be seen.
We had not brought any swimming suits so did not test the waters.
Then back down the rough road to Mitla.
The ruins there are indeed fascinating with intricate scroll design that the local weavers copy in their rugs. Far different then Monte Alban you enter a section requiring a bit of stooping to enter but well worth it.
Next you walk through a Artisa Market were we made a few small purchases before paying an entrance fee for the rest of the ruins. This includes two tombs that require some stooping almost crawling in the semi darkness, but again well worth the effort.
As we had worked up a large appetite we wanted something more than Taco Stand food so Manuel took us to Hotel Don Cenobio with lovely grounds, courtyard restaurant setting where we dined on Their Set Menu. Total cost for 4 including tip under 600 Pesos for a delicious meal.
After we checked out some rooms which while modest are lovely, neat & clean. Hopefully one day we can stay a couple of nights allowing us to explore more of this interesting city.
Then off to Manuel's home complex of a half a dozen homes around a enclosed huge courtyard. He demonstrated his process including dying of yarn, spinning & actual weaving which his children & Linda participated.
Linda picked out a couple of rugs having already chosen several others at his stall at the Market we returned to there picking up Linda's choices (6 gorgeous rugs for 2,500 pesos) then home after a long 10 hour day. We paid our driver 1,000 peso a excellent bargain considering the miles traveled & the time.
We arranged for our next trip to the Sunday market & more before parting company.
Next Museos Y Mas
Mixed review. While lovely scenery & the pools, calcified falls are indeed fascinating the whole area had a rather forlorn deserted appearance.
The large man made pool surrounded by empty cabanas had no water in it. Not sure if it was never finished or still being worked on. The Restrooms were immaculate so it was obvious they are maintained, but not a soul to be seen.
We had not brought any swimming suits so did not test the waters.
Then back down the rough road to Mitla.
The ruins there are indeed fascinating with intricate scroll design that the local weavers copy in their rugs. Far different then Monte Alban you enter a section requiring a bit of stooping to enter but well worth it.
Next you walk through a Artisa Market were we made a few small purchases before paying an entrance fee for the rest of the ruins. This includes two tombs that require some stooping almost crawling in the semi darkness, but again well worth the effort.
As we had worked up a large appetite we wanted something more than Taco Stand food so Manuel took us to Hotel Don Cenobio with lovely grounds, courtyard restaurant setting where we dined on Their Set Menu. Total cost for 4 including tip under 600 Pesos for a delicious meal.
After we checked out some rooms which while modest are lovely, neat & clean. Hopefully one day we can stay a couple of nights allowing us to explore more of this interesting city.
Then off to Manuel's home complex of a half a dozen homes around a enclosed huge courtyard. He demonstrated his process including dying of yarn, spinning & actual weaving which his children & Linda participated.
Linda picked out a couple of rugs having already chosen several others at his stall at the Market we returned to there picking up Linda's choices (6 gorgeous rugs for 2,500 pesos) then home after a long 10 hour day. We paid our driver 1,000 peso a excellent bargain considering the miles traveled & the time.
We arranged for our next trip to the Sunday market & more before parting company.
Next Museos Y Mas
Apr 26th, 2014, 07:15 PM
#33
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How very nice that Linda struck up a conversation with Manuel at his market stall, and that because of that you made a friend and got a driver and guide and got to experience rug weaving processes at his home compound. I like her style. My guess is that you will always remember Manual when you and others are admiring your hand woven Oaxacan rugs. Those are the kind of surprises that make travel so great.
I recall about your friend John who loved Oaxaca from your previous posts while you were planning this trip. I imagine he was smiling the day you described above.
Don Cenobio sounds good! I have made a note of it as I have not been to Hierve del Agua. Still not sure we will venture there on our upcoming trip. Thanks for coming back to keep your report going.
I recall about your friend John who loved Oaxaca from your previous posts while you were planning this trip. I imagine he was smiling the day you described above.
Don Cenobio sounds good! I have made a note of it as I have not been to Hierve del Agua. Still not sure we will venture there on our upcoming trip. Thanks for coming back to keep your report going.
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