Yorkshire-divide base between Dales and Moors?
#1
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Yorkshire-divide base between Dales and Moors?
I recently posted a 3 week itinerary here on Fodors and received wonderfully informative responses(mainly on what to cut back).
Now am trying to finalize things. For the Yorkshire part of trip I was wondering if I should base 2 nights in the Dales, 2 nights in the Moors, and 1 in York? 5 nights total in the area.
Or is it best to find a central base to explore all 3? Dates: July 14th-19th. WIll leave the area late morning of the 19th.
For the Dales---am looking for a nice, old fashioned country house Hotel or B and B either in the countryside or in a peaceful village.
Moors--hoping to stay either in Robin Hood's Bay or Whitby. I want to hear the seagulls from my room(odd as that may sound to some).
York--seem to be plenty of choices.
I will be coming from The Lake DIstrict so figured Dales, then Moors, then York so that I may drop off car and take train back to London for 4 nights then sadly fly back home to Cincinnati.
Morgana? I know you will have the right answer. and please recommend places to stay(under 150 pounds nightly). I am traveling with one companion.
Thanks!
Now am trying to finalize things. For the Yorkshire part of trip I was wondering if I should base 2 nights in the Dales, 2 nights in the Moors, and 1 in York? 5 nights total in the area.
Or is it best to find a central base to explore all 3? Dates: July 14th-19th. WIll leave the area late morning of the 19th.
For the Dales---am looking for a nice, old fashioned country house Hotel or B and B either in the countryside or in a peaceful village.
Moors--hoping to stay either in Robin Hood's Bay or Whitby. I want to hear the seagulls from my room(odd as that may sound to some).
York--seem to be plenty of choices.
I will be coming from The Lake DIstrict so figured Dales, then Moors, then York so that I may drop off car and take train back to London for 4 nights then sadly fly back home to Cincinnati.
Morgana? I know you will have the right answer. and please recommend places to stay(under 150 pounds nightly). I am traveling with one companion.
Thanks!
#2

Joined: May 2003
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No pressure then!
It's usually agreed that the most central place to explore North Yorkshire (a huge county) is around the Thirsk area. And it's also often agreed that you are best settling in one place rather than the upheaval of moving on every day or so.
However...........with your specific requirements I think you'll be best off doing the 2 nights in the Dales, 2 in the Moors, 1 in York suggestion. Travelling between these places can become part of your holiday as it's mainly a very scenic area.
I agree Dales, Moors then York in that order.
1) Yorkshire Dales - I often recommend Pateley Bridge as somewhere to stay in the Dales. It's a largish village but quiet with a very old fashioned feel to it and surrounded by the beautiful Nidderdale countryside. As I live locally I don't stay in the area but I know that Roslyn House B&B in Pateley gets very good feedback. it's also very reasonably priced leaving you scope to try one of the wonderful restaurants in the area, my favourite being the Yorke Arms (which would blow your budget if you stayed there).
www.roslynhouse.co.uk
www.yorke-arms.co.uk
For a much more rural location in the Dales you could try The Angel at Hetton which is getting close to your budget. It's very pretty and the food is terrific. There are also walks all around the area from the Angel.
www.angelhetton.co.uk
The Red Lion at Burnsall is also great. It's by the river, beautiful village and close to Bolton Abbey and Barden Tower.
www.redlion.co.uk
www.boltonabbey.com
2) Yorkshire Moors
To stay in Whitby I would recommend the White Linen Guesthouse - again I haven't stayed here but I know people who have and they spoke highly of it. Should be fine for seagull listening.
Robin Hood's Bay is very different from Whitby. I am not sure if you are aware, but there are two parts to it. The older part of RHB is down an EXTREMELY steep and twisting road which leads right down to the sea. Vehicles are not allowed down it unless delivering or dropping off, and it's not for the faint hearted. There are very limited places to turn round and come right up. Visitors have to leave their cars in the car park at the top of the hill and walk down. So, whilst it might seem attractive to stay in a B&B in the old part of the town, it does come with practical difficulties.
3) York - numerous choices as you say, will let others point you to soem of their favourites as I don't stay in the city.
Please let me know if you think I can help further.
It's usually agreed that the most central place to explore North Yorkshire (a huge county) is around the Thirsk area. And it's also often agreed that you are best settling in one place rather than the upheaval of moving on every day or so.
However...........with your specific requirements I think you'll be best off doing the 2 nights in the Dales, 2 in the Moors, 1 in York suggestion. Travelling between these places can become part of your holiday as it's mainly a very scenic area.
I agree Dales, Moors then York in that order.
1) Yorkshire Dales - I often recommend Pateley Bridge as somewhere to stay in the Dales. It's a largish village but quiet with a very old fashioned feel to it and surrounded by the beautiful Nidderdale countryside. As I live locally I don't stay in the area but I know that Roslyn House B&B in Pateley gets very good feedback. it's also very reasonably priced leaving you scope to try one of the wonderful restaurants in the area, my favourite being the Yorke Arms (which would blow your budget if you stayed there).
www.roslynhouse.co.uk
www.yorke-arms.co.uk
For a much more rural location in the Dales you could try The Angel at Hetton which is getting close to your budget. It's very pretty and the food is terrific. There are also walks all around the area from the Angel.
www.angelhetton.co.uk
The Red Lion at Burnsall is also great. It's by the river, beautiful village and close to Bolton Abbey and Barden Tower.
www.redlion.co.uk
www.boltonabbey.com
2) Yorkshire Moors
To stay in Whitby I would recommend the White Linen Guesthouse - again I haven't stayed here but I know people who have and they spoke highly of it. Should be fine for seagull listening.
Robin Hood's Bay is very different from Whitby. I am not sure if you are aware, but there are two parts to it. The older part of RHB is down an EXTREMELY steep and twisting road which leads right down to the sea. Vehicles are not allowed down it unless delivering or dropping off, and it's not for the faint hearted. There are very limited places to turn round and come right up. Visitors have to leave their cars in the car park at the top of the hill and walk down. So, whilst it might seem attractive to stay in a B&B in the old part of the town, it does come with practical difficulties.
3) York - numerous choices as you say, will let others point you to soem of their favourites as I don't stay in the city.
Please let me know if you think I can help further.
#3

Joined: May 2003
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Apologies, here's the website for the White Linen guesthouse.
www.whitelinenguesthouse.co.uk
Also RNB has a little on line magazine called Bayfair (what else?) which has lots of accommodation ideas.
www.bayfair.co.uk
www.whitelinenguesthouse.co.uk
Also RNB has a little on line magazine called Bayfair (what else?) which has lots of accommodation ideas.
www.bayfair.co.uk
#5
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Joined: Nov 2010
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" No pressure then". Ha ha I'm sorry for that, Morgana, but not only did you come through with all the right answers, you also responded so VERY quickly! You are amazing---I almost feel as though some Yorkshire Tourist council should reward you for all that you do to help visitors.
I will check on those places to stay. Thanks for the links!
I saw a youtube video where someone filmed a lady walking down the steep Rd into RHB. It looks adorable. All the B and B's look alike, though, from what I can see.
Ok, time to investigate the links you gave me.
Thanks again!
I will check on those places to stay. Thanks for the links!
I saw a youtube video where someone filmed a lady walking down the steep Rd into RHB. It looks adorable. All the B and B's look alike, though, from what I can see.
Ok, time to investigate the links you gave me.
Thanks again!
#6

Joined: May 2003
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Awww, you are too kind!
It was a coincidence I replied quickly - just got home from work and decided to have a quick look at Fodors before cooking the dinner for everyone, and just had to reply to your post! Dinner now in oven.......rain pouring down outside.
Hope the links help, but I am always aware that as I live up here I don't stay in the places people want to stay in- we have a touring caravan so that's where I spend my time at the weekends, not in lovely Hotels and B&Bs. But we do eat out a lot in North Yorkshire so I can give you lots of advice on places to dine too.
It was a coincidence I replied quickly - just got home from work and decided to have a quick look at Fodors before cooking the dinner for everyone, and just had to reply to your post! Dinner now in oven.......rain pouring down outside.
Hope the links help, but I am always aware that as I live up here I don't stay in the places people want to stay in- we have a touring caravan so that's where I spend my time at the weekends, not in lovely Hotels and B&Bs. But we do eat out a lot in North Yorkshire so I can give you lots of advice on places to dine too.
#7
Joined: Jan 2003
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Robin Hoods Bay is lovely, and Whitby is one of my favorite places. We stayed at an interesting B&B near Ravenscar, from which (well, down the road a bit) you can see RHB in the distance, on the side of the bay. It was called Smuggler's Rock, I believe. Across from an old mill. Rooms were a bit on the tiny side, but it was a pleasant stay. Cool house - has a bar in it
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#8
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Joined: Nov 2010
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Ok thanks for all the information. I have booked and made deposits on 3 places for those 5 nights in Yorkshire.
Stone House near Hawes in Wensleydale(Dales)
Victoria Hotel in RHB(Moors)
and Guy Fawkes Inn in York.
Trying to now finalize the Lake District part of the trip(which is right before the Yorkshire segment). The rest of the journey is complete and I will leave a full trip report and reviews when I return(though it's so long from now I'm almost sad that the planning is nearly over).
Thanks again!
Stone House near Hawes in Wensleydale(Dales)
Victoria Hotel in RHB(Moors)
and Guy Fawkes Inn in York.
Trying to now finalize the Lake District part of the trip(which is right before the Yorkshire segment). The rest of the journey is complete and I will leave a full trip report and reviews when I return(though it's so long from now I'm almost sad that the planning is nearly over).
Thanks again!
#9

Joined: May 2003
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Plans are looking very good! I don't know of the Stone House but I've had a look at the website and it certainlly looks lovely, and a good base to explore Wensleydale. I know of the Victoria although have never been in, but the tearoom looks my sort of thing!
I am sure we can help on this forum about the Lakes too. How long are you staying there, and do you have any idea where you want to stay?
I am sure we can help on this forum about the Lakes too. How long are you staying there, and do you have any idea where you want to stay?
#10
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Joined: Nov 2010
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Only 2 nights in the lakes(I think)! I've booked 2 nights in Shrewsbury for July 8th and 9th(having come from the Cotswolds), then 2 nights still open, then the following 2 nights(at least) are planned for the Lake District. The 2 previous nights are the only 2 nights I am keeping free until I get there, so could go early up to the Lakes, or maybe North Wales, or the Peaks. Still not sure--but the Lakes are a definite for those latter 2 nights.
Which part of Lake District? I can't decide. Hawkshead looks like a beautiful village, but not sure how busy and far it would be to travel further north to Ullswater(Glenridding). Ullswater looks to be the prettier area, but Hawkshead looks to be the nicest village. Also, Wastwater looks amazing in photos, but not sure about what we'd do in the evenings.
Suggestions? Keswick? I've read that there will some sort of huge Christian convention going on in Keswick at that time so I know that I need to book rather soon.
Morgana--- Do you know anything about the town of Hawes? It is apparently just across the valley from Stone House(where we're staying) in the Wensleydale area. We plan to engage in a lot of walking.
Which part of Lake District? I can't decide. Hawkshead looks like a beautiful village, but not sure how busy and far it would be to travel further north to Ullswater(Glenridding). Ullswater looks to be the prettier area, but Hawkshead looks to be the nicest village. Also, Wastwater looks amazing in photos, but not sure about what we'd do in the evenings.
Suggestions? Keswick? I've read that there will some sort of huge Christian convention going on in Keswick at that time so I know that I need to book rather soon.
Morgana--- Do you know anything about the town of Hawes? It is apparently just across the valley from Stone House(where we're staying) in the Wensleydale area. We plan to engage in a lot of walking.
#11

Joined: May 2003
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Hi
Hawes is lovely - a busy, bustling, small market town. It gets lots of visitors to the Wensleydale Creamery and the Dales Countryside Museum.
www.yorkshiredales.org.uk/dcm.htm
www.wensleydale.co.uk
The countryside is lovely and perfect for walking. The local Tourist office will have loads of leaflets and maps.
www.daleswalker.com/Top%20Ten%20Walks_7.htm
It's hard to suggest where to go in the area as it's all so lovely, but some special highlights are -
1) Hardraw Force and/or Aysgath Falls if you like waterfalls
2) Buttertubs Pass - amazing views of the Dales
3) The walk up to the old lead mines at Gunnerside - very atmospheric.
http://www.mywainwrights.co.uk/2009w...509/030509.htm
I can also recommend two absolutely cracking places to eat. At West Witton there's a superb restaurant that specialises in fish (miles from the sea!) called the Wensleydale Heifer. Their beer battered fish and chips, served on a plate with a newspaper pattern on it, is a local legend. But they also do gorgeous salmon, lobster, crab, scallops etc.
www.wensleydaleheifer.co.uk
And Yorebridge House in Bainbridge is gorgeous and does wonderful food - somewhere to go for a special evening.
http://yorebridgehouse.co.uk
You can't go wrong really with your Lakes suggestions. The general rule of thumb is that the Northern Lakes can be a bit wilder and more dramatic, whilst the Southern area is more chocolate box. It will all be pretty busy in July so a tip would be to book somewhere with parking. Have you looked at Grasmere?
If you want peace and quiet then a farm bed and breakfast is a good choice. I've always wanted to stay here at Yew Tree Farm.
www.yewtree-farm.com
However, if you want the bright lights then this wouldn't be for you! Mind you, a walk on a summer evening and then a meal or drink in the local pub always sounds good to me.
A larger place like Keswick or Ambleside would give you more options for evening entertainment of course. We tend to avoid Windermere.
Hawes is lovely - a busy, bustling, small market town. It gets lots of visitors to the Wensleydale Creamery and the Dales Countryside Museum.
www.yorkshiredales.org.uk/dcm.htm
www.wensleydale.co.uk
The countryside is lovely and perfect for walking. The local Tourist office will have loads of leaflets and maps.
www.daleswalker.com/Top%20Ten%20Walks_7.htm
It's hard to suggest where to go in the area as it's all so lovely, but some special highlights are -
1) Hardraw Force and/or Aysgath Falls if you like waterfalls
2) Buttertubs Pass - amazing views of the Dales
3) The walk up to the old lead mines at Gunnerside - very atmospheric.
http://www.mywainwrights.co.uk/2009w...509/030509.htm
I can also recommend two absolutely cracking places to eat. At West Witton there's a superb restaurant that specialises in fish (miles from the sea!) called the Wensleydale Heifer. Their beer battered fish and chips, served on a plate with a newspaper pattern on it, is a local legend. But they also do gorgeous salmon, lobster, crab, scallops etc.
www.wensleydaleheifer.co.uk
And Yorebridge House in Bainbridge is gorgeous and does wonderful food - somewhere to go for a special evening.
http://yorebridgehouse.co.uk
You can't go wrong really with your Lakes suggestions. The general rule of thumb is that the Northern Lakes can be a bit wilder and more dramatic, whilst the Southern area is more chocolate box. It will all be pretty busy in July so a tip would be to book somewhere with parking. Have you looked at Grasmere?
If you want peace and quiet then a farm bed and breakfast is a good choice. I've always wanted to stay here at Yew Tree Farm.
www.yewtree-farm.com
However, if you want the bright lights then this wouldn't be for you! Mind you, a walk on a summer evening and then a meal or drink in the local pub always sounds good to me.
A larger place like Keswick or Ambleside would give you more options for evening entertainment of course. We tend to avoid Windermere.
#12
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Joined: Nov 2010
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Thank you for all the information. I think I had checked out the Wensleydale Heifer(also as a nifty place to stay). I will definitely plan to eat there!
Yorebridge House looks wonderful!
Not really looking for terribly active nightlife in the Lakes, just some local pubs where I can hopefully engage in conversations with other people.
I printed out the driving tours you suggested in another forum. Am getting terribly excited! I can't keep my hands off of James Herriot's photo book of Yorkshire!
Thanks again
Yorebridge House looks wonderful!
Not really looking for terribly active nightlife in the Lakes, just some local pubs where I can hopefully engage in conversations with other people.
I printed out the driving tours you suggested in another forum. Am getting terribly excited! I can't keep my hands off of James Herriot's photo book of Yorkshire!
Thanks again
#13
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 641
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Morgana
Stayed at the Heifer last year. We eat the best seafood around the world. Strangely enough, for its location the food was up there with the best. Lovely gardens too.
Ate at the Angel for the first time ever in November. Which considering that we have been planning a trip for 20 years was quite an achievement. Not impressed at all. Dated menu and hefty prices.
Have you eaten in the NT cafe at Fountains? : was very good, hearty food.
"We tend to avoid Windermere" (Bowness)
Is good advice. Not pretty in Summer, too many people.
ps got lost in the dark last night somewhere near Brampton (trying to find Hadrians Wall). Decided Birdoswald was too far from the M6. Got stuck in a muddy field after one too many wrong turns and ended up in Birdoswald anyway, at 7:30pm. Played Roman soldiers v Picts for 10 minutes and went home for a bath.
Moral of the story : more sign posts for the wall please.
If anyone is interested The Dragon at Clifton is extremely good, just off the M6 at Penrith.
http://www.georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk/
Stayed at the Heifer last year. We eat the best seafood around the world. Strangely enough, for its location the food was up there with the best. Lovely gardens too.
Ate at the Angel for the first time ever in November. Which considering that we have been planning a trip for 20 years was quite an achievement. Not impressed at all. Dated menu and hefty prices.
Have you eaten in the NT cafe at Fountains? : was very good, hearty food.
"We tend to avoid Windermere" (Bowness)
Is good advice. Not pretty in Summer, too many people.
ps got lost in the dark last night somewhere near Brampton (trying to find Hadrians Wall). Decided Birdoswald was too far from the M6. Got stuck in a muddy field after one too many wrong turns and ended up in Birdoswald anyway, at 7:30pm. Played Roman soldiers v Picts for 10 minutes and went home for a bath.
Moral of the story : more sign posts for the wall please.
If anyone is interested The Dragon at Clifton is extremely good, just off the M6 at Penrith.
http://www.georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk/
#14
Joined: Dec 2010
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ps voices
one base is fine, the driving distances are not much more than one hour.
Try to walk round Derwentwater it is one of the best "flat" walks in the UK. If you get tired (13 miles) there is a wooden launch which can help you cheat.
one base is fine, the driving distances are not much more than one hour.
Try to walk round Derwentwater it is one of the best "flat" walks in the UK. If you get tired (13 miles) there is a wooden launch which can help you cheat.
#15

Joined: May 2003
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Hi Humpty
Lucky you staying at the Heifer. We have a touring caravan so we tend to be parked up in a field somewhere, but at £8 a night site fee it gives us plenty of excuses to eat out somewhere lovely every evening. I had salmon in champagne sauce the last time I ate there, and it was fantastic!
I went to the Angel for my birthday last year (May) and we enjoyed the food. However, there was a chap bitterly complaining at another table about his ridiculously small portions of food at sky high prices - think we were lucky by the sound of it.
Mind you, nothing in my book ever comes close to the Yorke Arms, my favourite restaurant in North Yorkshire AND the rest of the country. if you've not tried it then you are in for a treat!
www.yorke-arms.co.uk
We've been to the Dragon twice, both times on a Sunday evening to take advantage of their roast dinners. Excellent value, and I like the relaxed atmosphere(newspapers etc). But a bit too close to the very busy main road/motorway to want to stay the night I think.
Fountains is just up the road from where I live, so not eaten there. But I do love Bettys despite it getting mixed reviews - my son and I go there for brunch at the slightest excuse! Or even if we can't think of an excuse!
Lucky you staying at the Heifer. We have a touring caravan so we tend to be parked up in a field somewhere, but at £8 a night site fee it gives us plenty of excuses to eat out somewhere lovely every evening. I had salmon in champagne sauce the last time I ate there, and it was fantastic!
I went to the Angel for my birthday last year (May) and we enjoyed the food. However, there was a chap bitterly complaining at another table about his ridiculously small portions of food at sky high prices - think we were lucky by the sound of it.
Mind you, nothing in my book ever comes close to the Yorke Arms, my favourite restaurant in North Yorkshire AND the rest of the country. if you've not tried it then you are in for a treat!
www.yorke-arms.co.uk
We've been to the Dragon twice, both times on a Sunday evening to take advantage of their roast dinners. Excellent value, and I like the relaxed atmosphere(newspapers etc). But a bit too close to the very busy main road/motorway to want to stay the night I think.
Fountains is just up the road from where I live, so not eaten there. But I do love Bettys despite it getting mixed reviews - my son and I go there for brunch at the slightest excuse! Or even if we can't think of an excuse!
#16

Joined: May 2003
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A Voices - have you watched the film Calendar Girls? it's not set or filmed in the part of the Dales you are visiting, but it would give you a good taster of the scenery.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Calendar-Gir.../dp/B0000X7KBE
And if you like reading you might like Possession by AS Byatt, partly set on the North Yorks coast very close to where you are staying.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Possession-R...5892964&sr=1-1
And the Maid of Buttermere by Melvyn Bragg is good preparation for the Lakes part of your trip.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Maid-Butterm...5893000&sr=1-1
Or Hunter Davies - A walk around the Lakes.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Walk-Around-...5893030&sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Calendar-Gir.../dp/B0000X7KBE
And if you like reading you might like Possession by AS Byatt, partly set on the North Yorks coast very close to where you are staying.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Possession-R...5892964&sr=1-1
And the Maid of Buttermere by Melvyn Bragg is good preparation for the Lakes part of your trip.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Maid-Butterm...5893000&sr=1-1
Or Hunter Davies - A walk around the Lakes.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Walk-Around-...5893030&sr=1-1
#17
Joined: Dec 2010
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I'll take you up on the Yorke Arms sometime.
Was a little put off by me, me , me, Ms Atkins.
Whenever we have tried the me, me, me experience (Rick Stein good example) it has just been OK. There is still only £200 in the saving up yoghurt pot for Le Manoir so a long way to go on that one.
Voices :
What is your budget for The Lakes?
"I had salmon in champagne"
Can never remember what I had, even meals from last week. Just seem to be black and white (good or bad).
Was a little put off by me, me , me, Ms Atkins.
Whenever we have tried the me, me, me experience (Rick Stein good example) it has just been OK. There is still only £200 in the saving up yoghurt pot for Le Manoir so a long way to go on that one.
Voices :
What is your budget for The Lakes?
"I had salmon in champagne"
Can never remember what I had, even meals from last week. Just seem to be black and white (good or bad).
#18

Joined: May 2003
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I tend to recall the outstanding ones.
If you are ever in the Beverley area I can recommend the Pipe and Glass Inn - I can recall what I had there as it was so gorgeous.
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
If you are ever in the Beverley area I can recommend the Pipe and Glass Inn - I can recall what I had there as it was so gorgeous.
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
#19
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Joined: Nov 2010
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Well, just booked a place that looks truly wonderful called Bybeck Bed and Breakfast. About 5 miles from Keswick in the Borrowdale valley. Every review in TA rates it an excellent(though it is not at the top---don't quite understand that). I think I'm now set except for the two nights previous to those Lake District nights. I will be in Shropshire and am then allowing 2 nights free for whatever/whenever---and then up to the Lakes. I think that some of you would shudder if you saw the first 3 days of this 3 week trip---I did not follow the advice of people---but I will post it all at some point.
Morgana---I will rush out to rent Calendar Girls. What part of Yorkshire does it take place in? Is each Dale that much different from one another? Swaledale, Warf.. etc?
Morgana---I will rush out to rent Calendar Girls. What part of Yorkshire does it take place in? Is each Dale that much different from one another? Swaledale, Warf.. etc?
#20
Joined: Jan 2011
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In the absence of Morgana, I can tell you that much of the outdoor stuff was filmed at Cow and Calf Rocks just above Ilkley (Wharfedale). And yes, every dale has a definite feel of its own - some are deeper and more looming, some are more open ... but all are beautiful (spot the biased Yorkshirewoman here!). My personal favourite is Wensleydale -you will see why when you stay at the Heifer! - though hubby rates Wharfedale and Swaledale.

