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yk's slightly off the beaten path London Trip Report (incl how I survived Tube strike; and dinner with someone famous!)

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yk's slightly off the beaten path London Trip Report (incl how I survived Tube strike; and dinner with someone famous!)

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Old Sep 15th, 2007, 06:03 PM
  #61  
yk
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It turns out that Tom Aikens used to work at Pied a Terre before he branched out on his own. I'd be interested to try out his Michelin-starred restaurant next time.
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 04:00 AM
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Thanks for another great report yk - we seem to head to London about the same time! I have the RA exhibit on my list this time, stopping for breakfast at the Wolseley first. Glad to hear that it's a good exhibit.

I have 3 London Wlks planned and Old Marylebone is one of them - was it just the crowd that made it not as great as the Hampstead Walk? Does it cover the great Regency architecture in the area?

I really like the Wallace Collection, not just the art but also to ge a feel of what a London town home was like in those years.

Thanks again for the report - I know they take a lot of commitment to finish.

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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 07:06 AM
  #63  
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kmowatt - When are you leaving for London? Have a great trip! Apart from serving a good breakfast, I've read that Wolseley offers a good afternoon tea as well.

The Marylebone walk doesn't cover any architecture, IIRC. The guide mainly focused on the history of that district. Basically we started at Bond Street station, went up St Christopher's Place, then to Marylebone Lane, up to Wallace Collection (we spent about 30-45mins there), to Marylebone High, to Paddington Gardens, and lastly, about 15 minutes in Regent's Park. It wasn't so much about the size of the group, but more of just people (local folks) everywhere. It was still interesting to me, as that is an area of London I've never really spent time in. It's just that if I have to compare the 2 walks, I like Hampstead more. I think these London Walks are a great way to see the city as the guides take our concentration away from the shops and restaurants and focus on history. This is the first time I've taken any London Walks, and I'm definitely take more in future trips.
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 07:25 AM
  #64  
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<b>Day 6
Time to head home</b>

It was hard to believe the week flew by so quickly. My flight out of LGW was at 10:20am, so I got up early and checked out at around 6:15am.

Even though I <i>could</i> take the train from Charing Cross to Gatwick, I decided not to risk my luck on this Sunday morning.

I have been burned before getting to LGW on a Sunday morning - I almost missed the flight. It seems like the railway companies tend to do track maintainence on Sundays and cut down or cancel trains on Sundays.

I decided to take a bus to Victoria Station and then take the Southern train to Gatwick. And if there is a hiccup on the Southern service, I can always fall back on Gatwick Express as Plan B.

There was supposed to be a Southern train at 7am for Gatwick. When I got to Victoria station, the announcement board indicated that all Southern trains that morning would be departing from Blackfriars station instead of Victoria. Of course, without any hesitation, I went for the Gatwick Express (&pound;15.90 1-way).

I got on the 6:45am GEX and arrived LGW at 7:20am. At the AA check-in desk, I asked about upgrading to Business Class. Afterall, this was my birthday present to myself. The gate agent indicated that the J cabin is full, and even if a seat opens up, my co-pay would be $300 + &pound;80 (the UK airport tax). I passed. $300 is one thing, but $460 is a lot...

Thanks to my brother who had been checking the seat map on my behalf while I was in London, he managed to change my middle seat to an aisle seat. The return flight actually wasn't too bad. I watched Ocean's Thirteen and finished reading an excellent book - <i>City of Falling Angels</i>. The food on this flight was edible.

We were expected to arrive 20 minutes early, but due to thunderstorms in DFW, we had to cirle around and around. At one point, we were threatenend to divert because our plane was running low on fuel. Fortunately, we finally were allowed to land and arrived almost 30 minutes late.

I really like the immigration at DFW. Never a line and folks are friendly. Since I had no checked luggage (I managed to squeeze my purse into my rollaboard at LGW to comply with the 1-bag rule), I was out at curbside within 15 minutes of deplaning.

Overall, a lovely week in London despite how expensive it is. London remains my favorite European city. To quote Samuel Johnson, &quot;when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life.&quot; Fortunately, that hasn't happened to me yet!

I will post a review of Northumberland House and also my total expense for this trip shortly.
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 07:36 AM
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How full was your flight?

Our flight out of Heathrow was quite empty. I got our seats changed to the bulkhead row (I asked for exit row, and I was told that wasn't available, and I had to ask what bulkhead means...). I noticed that there were quite a number of seats empty in the middle section and there were some people who were able to lie down and sleep.

I also noticed that AA has published E-savers for London from JFK for less than $400. (Not sure if that fare includes taxes -- I think so.)

It looks like the summer travel rush is over.
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 07:44 AM
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I've really enjoyed your report. Thanks for all the links to the sights. Any other pictures besides food?
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 07:52 AM
  #67  
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<b>Review of Northumberland House</b>
http://www.lse.ac.uk/collections/vac...humberland.htm

As I have mentioned previously, this is one of the dorms belong to LSE. In my many previous trips to London, I've always used Priceline and got a good deal. But when I found out about Northumberland (thanks to Fodorite WillTravel and 111op), I realized no Priceline deal can match it's rate. A single en-suite room is &pound;42. No breakfast, but that is not a big deal for me as I usually don't eat breakfast anyway.

There are other LSE dorms that are cheaper and include breakfast, but majority of them do not have private bathrooms. And who can beat the prime location of Northumberland House???

My single room is small, but I'd say about average size for a European single. It measures approx 15'x15'. The bathroom is extremely small, maybe 3'x3'. It's fine for me to stay there for 5 nights, but I feel bad for the students who stay in these rooms for months...

The room has a single bed, bedside table with a reading lamp, a desk and chair, and a full length closet with drawers. Amenities are minimum - bedsheets, blanket, 1 bath towel and 1 hand towel and that's it. No alarm clock, no TV, no hairdryer, and there is no soap (fortunately I brought one with me). I got fresh towels every day, and the trash is emptied daily.

The bathroom is so small (with shower only) that the entire bathroom floor is wet after a shower.

Even though it's located in a busy part of town, my room faces the inside of the building. I kept my window open at night and it's very quiet. Also, in the section where my room is, all the other rooms are singles. So, apart from no TV noises, there's no one talking aloud as there's no one to talk to! The House also has a rule for quiet hours from 11p-7a.

I slept very well. I found the mattress very comfortable, more so than the ones I've slept on at 4* hotels.

There is a communal kitchen for every 6-7 rooms. I did not use it but I peeked inside. There is a stove, 2 fridges, an electric kettle, a microwave. I don't think there are any cooking utensils but I'm not 100% sure. In the basement of the building is a laundry room, but I didn't check it out.

The location, again, is great. As you have noticed, I took buses for the majority of my trip. There are so many bus lines that go pass Trafalgar Sq and Charing Cross that one can practically go everywhere in London by bus. I enjoy taking buses more than the tube because it allows me to see the city rather than underground. Of course, the bus is cheaper as well.

Overall, I find it an excellent value for a single. Where else can I stay for so little $ in the heart of London? But I would only recommend it to folks who truly are not fussy about their accomodation. Also, if I were on a trip with DH, I would stick with Priceline.

I seriously think that only 111op, his mom, and myself are the only people who stay at a dorm yet eat at 2* Michelin restaurants.
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 07:57 AM
  #68  
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&lt; How full was your flight? &gt;

The J cabin was full. Not sure about F. In Y, it's about 80% full. There were some empty seats in the middle section (it's 2-5-2). My seat was the aisle of a &quot;2&quot;. The man who sat in the windown seat next to me never got up once. Not ONCE! And this was a 10-hr flight! I think I got up to use the bathroom at least 3 times.
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 08:11 AM
  #69  
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<b>What's the Damage?</b>

Flight: $708 + $300 (1-way upgrade)
Accomodation: &pound;213.50 (5 nights)
Transportation (all public transport): &pound;52
Admission fees: &pound;66
Entertainment (1 play, 1 concert): &pound;47.5
London Walks: &pound;12
Food (1 tea, 1 breakfast, 4 lunches, 4 dinners): &pound;214
Snacks: &pound;12
Guidebook and Programmes: &pound;10

I didn't do any shopping except for a few postcards, and while I was at LGW waiting for my flight home.

Total: about $2262 (using &pound;1=$2)

---------------------------
I forgot to mention, while at LGW, I spent most of my time at the BA Terraces Lounge. I have PLT status on AA, so I got an invite to use the lounge. I like it more than the Admirals Club lounge in DFW. There's some snacks for breakfast (croissants, biscuits, cereal), and lots of reading materials. It was a nice way to spend my time since I arrived at LGW so early.
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 08:13 AM
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Well for me there's a huge premium on location. I'm not fussy about amenities since I hardly stay in the hotel. For example, on this trip to London we checked in at 2 am. I was out at 6:10 am for a wedding. I got back around 8 pm and changed briefly and then met you for dinner. After dinner I went out until about 4 am. Then we checked out at 10:30 am.

So though Northumberland House is a dorm, I found it perfectly adequate -- except for the way they handled that reservation mixup. I don't see any way I can beat that location for that price.

And they even offered free internet access!

I guess it's just a personal choice. Obviously I can see the argument that even if you just spend a few hours in a hotel room, a nicer one is better. I'm just more interseted in eating. So I prefer to splurge on meals than on hotels.
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 08:18 AM
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One thing that I don't think you mentioned -- Northumberland offered towels but not soap. I couldn't believe it. Fortunately I was with my mom, and she had a small bar of soap with her. I guess that's thing about traveling with mom -- that she has anything that you can possibly need on the trip. I'd not have thought that I'd need to bring my own soap.

I was very surprised that she managed to pack everything into a carryon and even stuffed her handbag in at LHR so we complied with the one-bag rule.
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 09:28 AM
  #72  
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<b>Photos</b>

I've decided to post the photos on my trip report on Travelerstogo. It includes photos of Brendan Fraser and Orlando Bloom. Here's the link:
http://p099.ezboard.com/feuropetogof...icID=383.topic
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 09:29 AM
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Hi yk!
I leave next Saturday morning!

My cousin stayed at the Covent Garden LSE accommodation and thought it couldn't be beat for the price also - her room was private en-suite as well as small kitchenette; located just around the corner from the M&amp;S on Long Acre this came in very handy - I'd definitely do the dorm thing when travelling solo.

Thanks for the review of the Marylebone walk - based on that, I think I'll skip it and do my own walk up Portland Place and into Park Crescent. I'm very familiar with the route you took on the walk and have seen the Wallace Collection twice already.

I'm really looking forward to the terracotta warriors exhibit at the BM - I see on the website that they are releasing tickets every morning at opening so still a chance to get in!
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 09:52 AM
  #74  
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You made a good point about the dorm. Nearby the Northumberland House are:
Tesco Express
Marks &amp; Spencer Food Mart
Pret-a-Manger
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 02:11 PM
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Thanks for the review of London School of Economics accommodations. I have wondered about staying there...
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 07:03 PM
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yk, thanks for another well-done, detailed report. I have already forgotten so much from my trip, and my London stay was just before yours.
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 08:11 PM
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It's interesting that you would mention the crashing dishes at the restaurant. The last time I was in London, we ate dinner late at night at the Wolseley (never again-my friend COULD NOT finish his steak-and he eats anything, it was so tough, but their desserts were good) and then, crash! we heard what sounded like a hundred plates hitting the floor-you could hear it throughout the entire restaurant-everyone stopped talking for a few seconds, the noise was so loud. The next day I went to a tearoom, crash! I heard a smaller number of plates falling to the floor in the kitchen, at which point I was thinking to myself ah, yes, I AM here in London, home of the less than stellar waitstaff... Then, I swear, the next night we went to another upscale restaurant in the West End, and, once again, crash! out on the floor one of the wait staff dropped a couple of dishes! At this point I was expecting it, but it did make me wonder. What is up with the clumsy waitstaff in London?
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Old Sep 16th, 2007, 08:14 PM
  #78  
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Well, Girlspy, the waitstaff didn't drop any dishes during our meal. I think they dropped some utensils a few times. The other thing I didn't mention is that all the waitstaff at Pied a Terre have heavy accents. When they brought our dishes out and annoucned what they were, we had a hard time understanding what they were saying.
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Old Sep 18th, 2007, 06:37 AM
  #79  
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topping for anyone else who's interested
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Old Sep 18th, 2007, 08:54 AM
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Thanks, I really enjoyed reading your report. I'm intrigued by the dorm accomodations and will look into them in the future.
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