tripplanner001

You give me ideas indeed, so thank you!

HappyTrvlr

Following your trip report from my trip to The Netherlands and London! Greece still ranks very high in my travels. We parked at the top of Mystras and then had to do that long hike back up. I will never forget the views from Delphi. I am enjoying your articulate reporting!

kja

@ Tralfaz: Oh yes, do consider adding Delphi to your plans for Greece! It is truly special.

@ tripplanner:; Great! Just, uh … “don’t get any ideas” (as that saying goes). ;-)

@ HappyTrvlr: OMG, kudos for managing to hike back up Mystras! … I’m glad to know you’re still following and enjoying. And I hope you are enjoying the Netherlands and London. ☺


<b>A Note about Driving in Greece:</b> So many people have commented on driving in Greece that I feel obliged to add an observation. Despite the challenges of the twists and turns and climbs or descents, once I learned the norms (like driving on the shoulder), I found it extremely easy to drive defensively in Greece. Except when inching past the two wrecks I encountered, I <u>never</u> saw anyone cross the medial line. And although people driving faster than I sometimes backed up behind me before I could find a place to let them pass, no one every crowded me from behind or cut me off when moving ahead. Those experiences are quite in contrast to other places where I have driving. For example, I found the drivers in Sicily and Croatia to be maniacal – I don’t know how many times I would approach a blind turn on a shoulderless two-lane road in those locations, only to have someone whip around that curve in MY lane with barely enough time for either of us to pull to the side to avoid a crash. And being tail-gated and having cars pull in front of me unnecessarily soon have been routine almost every where I’ve driven. So, while the terrain in Greece poses challenges, driving was, in many ways, surprisingly easy. IME.

gertie3751

Finally kja!
Just almost caught up with you. I was with you all the way until the Mani, then you lost me! And I have to say that your speed of travel leaves me standing. I had 2 weeks in Chania alone, one each in Santorini Naxos and Nafplio. Have even made notes as I read along though not all of them make sense!

I think what got me most was the driving. I am full of admiration for someone who can do all that stressful stuff then do the sights at the end of the day. And find parking spots. And manage not to get tickets. And decipher Greek road signs. With no navigator too. Not to mention keeping off the booze while on the road. Hats off. Have to say it did reinforce my decision to travel exclusively by public transport and having read all that, feel vindicated.

More soon...

artsnletters

I also drove myself for 10 days in Greece. I honestly did not find it challenging. Once I got a feel for the rules, I even did a bit of Greek-style passing. GPS was my lifesaver, though. I could make out a Greek road sign if I had some time, but not at a glance, so being told to turn in 300 meters was much more useful. The thing that really knocked me out was driving on the big interstate-type roads. The speeding was incredible, and that's before you got to the motorcycles. While motorcycles on the two-lane roads are invariably slow, slow, slow, on the multi-lane roads, they appear all to be engaged in a mad race and blow by the cars going easily 20 mph faster than the rest of the [speeding] traffic. That's the part I found terrifying! But in general, I too found Greek drivers quite reasonable, rational and patient.

kja

@ gertie:

… OMG, how did I lose you in the Mani? What must I do to reel you back in?

… I do try to warn people that I travel hard! I mean it when I say that I want to take advantage of every possible moment to see and do things that I cannot do at home, and I’m willing to thoroughly exhaust myself to that end. (And I did on this trip!) Please understand that I’m not criticizing anyone for choosing a different style or pace – I would hope that every traveler finds what works for him / her / them on each and every trip. In truth, a part of me envies those of you who travel as you do, and at the very least, I hope to ease into a style more like yours as it becomes necessary for me to do so (and I know that it will!)

… As I just mentioned in a note about driving, there were ways in which I found driving in Greece surprisingly easy. I rarely drove more than a couple of hours at a time (I admit that my two LONG drives were taxing); with a GPS, I really didn’t need a navigator or translator; and I had generally identified parking lots in advance (but, as noted, I miscalculated a few times). Forgoing alcohol until I settled for the evening was, I admit, sometimes a bit more challenging. ;-)

… Too, I love to drive, and I don’t have (or need) a car, so having one when I travel is a bit of a treat. My father adored driving, so when I’m on the road in a foreign country, I’m always reminded of some of my best memories of him. (OMG, what he would think of GPS systems!) He taught me to read (and treasure) maps; to drive defensively; to drive safely. I like to think that he would be proud of the ways in which I’ve implemented the lessons he so patiently provided.

… That said, there are SOoooo many advantages to public transportation that I fully endorse your commitment to it!


@ artsnletters: I must have been just enough off-season to miss the motorcyclists – and from what you say, I’m very glad about that! GPS really has simplifed driving, hasn’t it?



Meteora coming up…

joannyc

<< GPS really has simplifed driving, hasn’t it? >>

It is essential for us solo travelers!

kja

@ joannyc: OMG, I remember navigating, solo, by paper maps in the pre-GPS days – what a PITA!

...


<b><u>Meteora and Beyond</b></u>

Day 21, cont.

After a relatively long flat stretch, I reached the <b>Meteora</b> area, another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• (If anyone reading this report doesn’t know about Meteora, I encourage you to do a google images search.)
• With a last, challenging drive up a narrow, twisting, and STEEP driveway, I arrived at the
• delightful <b>Pyrgos Adrachti</b>, my B&B in Kastraki.
• I spent some time relaxing on my private patio, which opened onto a small lawn with some flowers and rustic objects and – best of all -- some awesome views of Matera's stunning rock towers.
• After a while, I moved to the B&B's front porch to watch the sunset.
• The cloud cover was too dense to afford a spectacular sunset, but a few small breaks in the clouds provided some beautifully impressive moments.

I ate dinner at the pleasant <b>Taverna Gardenia</b>, and then
• Plodded, huffing and puffing, up that long, steep driveway.


<u>Day 22</u>

Awakening to the joyous calls of numerous birds, I peeked outside and enjoyed the lovely sight of the lightening sky as dawn approached.
• Later, I savored a tasty breakfast before heading off to the monasteries.
• As some of you may recall, I was still recovering from a nasty thigh injury, and I wasn't at all confident that I could manage the stairs involved in visiting most of Meteora's monasteries. The effort it had taken to reach my B&B after dinner had not put my mind at ease!
• My plan: Take each climb slowly, and see what I felt able to manage.

First up: <b>Grand Meteoron</b>.
• Grand indeed! And a treat to see, despite the hordes of tourists and tour groups.
• With glorious wall paintings, intricately inlaid wooden furnishings, incredible treasures, fascinating displays of the implements of everyday survival and an ancient wooden wine press and an ancient kitchen, an ossuary, and (of course) stunning views,
• it was, IMO, well worth every one of those stairs!

I decided to tackle the climb to <b>Varlaam</b>, too.
• Smaller, it also held impressive wall paintings, a rich treasury (including an illustrated manuscript from the 6th century), and a terrace affording amazing views, not only of Meteora’s awesome terrain, but also of
• four people scaling a neighboring tower -- oh my!
• I watched the first two reach the top, where they leapt and jumped around -- while I silently screamed, “No!!! Be careful! Don’t do that!” (I grow old... but I still eat peaches, and, to add to the confusion, I also wear my pants rolled when necessary.) (Sorry – couldn’t resist the homage to T.S. Eliot….)

To my surprise, I decided I had the energy to visit <b>Roussanou</b>, too, as it didn’t entail very many stairs.
• As at each of the other monasteries and convents I visited in Meteora, women were asked to don a skirt upon entering, which basically means tieing a sarong-like garment over one’s pants.
• There was a rack of such garments at the entrance to each, and a place to return them upon leaving.
• At the entrance to Roussanou, the rack didn’t have any sarongs, just a few headscarves (which were not required, but which some women chose to wear), but I could see a heap of garments in the “return” pile.
• While I waited to ask the nun at the counter whether other sarongs might be available, a group of women tied the headscarves around their waists, almost like sashes, and tried to enter.
• I don’t think I’ve ever seen a nun so distressed! The women seemed completely impervious to the issue and were moving up a ramp, the nun was obviously trying to get out of her cubicle … I stepped ahead to ask the ladies to stop, leading the nun to think that I was trying to enter without even buying a ticket…! It was all very confusing.
• As I herded the women back to the entrance, I think the nun realized that I had been trying to help. She gave us all sarongs, and after the now properly attired ladies entered, she and I exchanged a pleasant word or two (in my limited Greek) as I finally paid for my entrance.

• I was rewarded by some truly exquisite and expressive frescoes in Roussanou’s tiny church. They seemed, to me, to have a more cohesive aesthetic than the frescoes of most of the other monasteries I saw in Greece. So lovely!
• Too, I could see a bit of a garden that was closed to tourists, part of this still functioning nunnery.

Wondering if I would regret the effort, I then climbed to <b>St. Nicholas</b>.
• The way to the entrance didn't have too many stairs, and one could take a serpentine path instead for parts of the climb.
• I encountered a welcoming tortoise who was very, very slowly, and with seemingly great determination, making his way across the path. I bonded with that tortoise. ;-)
• Once inside, there are a LOT of stairs to reach its top,
• But the views from the uppermost, tree-topped level were, IMO, worth every painful step!
• This monastery also had a small church with an interesting painted ceiling in one part, and
• A series of frescoes of stories from the Bible that I thought absolutely breathtaking, and quite unlike anything I saw in the many other Byzantine churches I visited on this trip.

Very pleased that I had managed all of the stairs to and from these four monasteries, I decided to hedge my bets -- I stopped by the side of the road for an awesome view of the Monastery of the Holy Trimity, but skipped an actual visit.

The last of the open monasteries, <b>St. Stephen's</b>, did not require stairs (thank goodness!) -- one reaches it via a bridge.
• The treasures of this functioning nunnery, IMO, included the exquisite woodwork of the iconostasis and furnishings of the church, a wall of frescoes of sainted women rendered with what I thought to be unusual expressiveness, and glimpses of the herb garden (which tourists could not enter).

Exhausted, I stopped briefly at my B&B for some refreshment and to grab a small bag of supplies, and then
• I went to the <b>Ananti City Resort</b>, outside of nearby Trikala, where I had reserved a massage even before leaving home. ;-)
• (The way I saw it, if I was able to visit a monastery or two, then I would likely welcome a massage. And if I was NOT able to visit as many as I wanted, then I would definitely NEED a massage!)
• Oh, I enjoyed that wonderful herbed hot-oil treatment!

I returned to Kastraki just in time to catch a few glimpses of another sunset from my B&B’s front porch -- it was pleasant, if too cloudy for awe.
• After relaxing with some wine for a while as dusk turned to night, I walked into town for dinner.
• The taverna where I had dined the night before had live music -- enticing, but I decided I wanted a more quiet evening.
• I found a very pleasant restaurant with an outdoor terrace, where I enjoyed a very tasty meal and
• a complimentary treat of a huge bowl of fresh cherries and a dish of yogurt with preserved orange rind and walnut. Wonderful!
• Unfortunately, if I wrote down the name of this taverna, I haven’t found it.
• Tired - VERY tired, truth be told! -- I climbed back to my B&B with steps that may have been even slower than (if as determined as) those of my tortoise buddy, and
• I then collapsed. But happily!


<u>Day 23</u>

Again awakening to birds as they greeted daybreak, I enjoyed watching for a while before
• another tasty breakfast and
• my departure from the Pyrgos Adrachti.

I stopped briefly at Meteora's <b>Natural History and Mushroom Museum</b>.
• Small, it was nearly filled with energetic young children and the attention-demanding voices of the adults guiding them through the collections.
• The woman who sold me my ticket kept apologizing for the crowds and noise, but I was very glad to see that children are given this opportunity and seemed to be enjoying it.
• I didn't stay long -- enough to confirm that a creature I had seen crossing a road near the Lousios Gorge was, in fact, a young wild boar and to confirm that I really had seen quite a few different species of goat.
• The section on mushrooms was particularly crowded, so I just bought some mushroom powder (do any of you know Willa Cather’s <i>My Ántonia</i>?) and left for Veria.

After about an hour on back roads through an area of beautiful rolling hills and farmland,
• I turned onto a major expressway for most of another hour.
• Distant mountains sometimes seemed enticingly clear, while at other times, they vanished into a cover of dense clouds.
• Tall and fluffy white clouds mixed with open spaces and shifting bits of rain to create the kinds of dramatically shifting skies and light effects that I had so appreciated at several points during my time in Greece.
• As I crossed a wide river, I realized how rarely I had seen rivers on my travels here. In fact, I don’t remember any others … there must have been some…?!?

Reaching <b>Veria</b>, I faced, and eventually overcame, the challenge of locating the <b>Byzantine Museum of Veroia</b>.
• (The sign with the name of the museum had become completely hidden by folliage.)
• What a gem! Relatively small, it held some wonderful examples of Byzantine art, and
• parts of two houses, one Byzantine and one Post-Byzantine.
• Everything was very well signed in English, with the obvious intention of educating and informing visitors.

The graciously helpful man at the museum's desk gave me a map and directions to the
• tiny <b>Church of Christ the Savior</b>, which was, unfortunately, closed.
• I admit that I stepped over the low, but gated, fence (shame on me!) to walk around it;
• I thought the frescoes on its exterior (protected by porticoes) both unusual for their content and unusually well preserved for external frescoes.

It was only a few kilometers to <b>Vergina</b>, where
• I found excellent signage directing me to parking for archeological site and
• then NO signs for how to get there from the parking lot -- argh!
• With a bit of help from a local shopkeeper, I located the

Extraordinary <b>Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai</b>, a large tumulus where Phillip II, father of Alexander, and others were buried.
• Such treasures! Gold, silver, ivory ... And the
• Preserved, in situ, portals to two of the tombs. Wow!
• I can easily appreciate why this site was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

None of the other parts of Vergina's archeological site are currently open, so I soon left for Thessaloniki.


Next up: Thessaloniki
Note: I’m so glad that so many of you are still reading along! The end of this trip, and this trip report, is coming!. I hope to post on Thessaloniki tomorrow. My final stop, after Thessaloniki, was in Athens, but with a busy week at work, it might take me two posts to cover my time there. And then I’ll offer a few final thoughts….

Heimdall

Hi kja,

Still reading! This latest segment reminds me of part of my daughter's overland trip from London to Cape Town. She and her husband were driving their Land Rover from Albania that day, and arrived in Kalabaka, near Meteora, after dark. Not being able to see much of the scenery in darkness, they were overwhelmed when they woke up next morning at how beautiful it is in that part of Greece.

Unfortunately they didn't have much time to linger, because they had a deadline to get the Land Rover on a cargo ship at Piraeus which was sailing for Alexandria, Egypt, where they would pick it up for the rest of the trip to South Africa. The whole trip took nearly a year, and I was disappointed they didn't have more time for Greece. I did arrange for them to meet a friend in Athens, who took them on a tour of the city.

Btw, they recorded their trip on a Wordpress blog, with my daughter doing the writing, and her husband the photography. The blog is a wonderful memento of the trip, which has its own website address. You may be doing a blog yourself, but if not, think about it—you are an excellent writer.

yestravel

Have not been to your latest stops and love reading about them. As I've been following along I keep trying to figure when I can fit a trip to Greece into my life.

joannyc

Kja, so glad you enjoyed Meteora! Pretty spectacular, isn't it?

kja

@ Heimdall: That trip of your daughter and SIL must have been quite an amazing journey! … And thanks for your compliment. I don’t have a blog – maybe when I retire.

@ yestravel: I’m glad that your are finding enjoyment in reading about some of the places you haven’t yet visited! I’m very pleased I saw them.

@ jaonnyc: Oh indeed, Meteora is truly spectacular! I am soooo lucky to have seen it!

gertie3751

Kja

Me again. Here are a few random comments. I havent caught up with you yet but am working on it.

Chania: Amazing we went to the same restaurants even though it was 6 weeks apart!w
Cruise ships: cant bear them and what they are doing to world ports. I have been to Santorini 3 times. The last was in 2010 and there were 5 cruise ships in the harbour then. I said never again. And those poor poor donkeys. Well....
Cellphones: if it makes you feel we are fellow dinosaurs, I haven't got one either! People ask me how I manage all my travels without one and I say I dont know really but I do!!
GPS... Or satnav.... No idea. I print out various sizes of google maps before I leave home. Get town maps from the hotels. If it ain't on the map or in my guidebook I probably dont get there! As I dont drive on my travels it is not a major problem. I drive enough in TX to last me a lifetime.
Security screening... I often ring all the bells and buzzers by forgetting to take things off. When challenged by security staff, I offer to take all my clothes off, but warn them that it isnt as much fun as it used to be.
Naxos: lovely details of your stay there. Brought back memories of getting hopelessly lost every day in and around the castle area. Never got the hang of it.
Corinth Canal: yes, I too get excited about feats of engineering. And that is a good one.

More when I have got a bit further on!!

kja

@ gertie: Sounds like we have some very similar views on a few things! I love maps. Even if I succumb to the current world enough to buy a smartphone some day, I can’t imagine giving up my maps. ;-)

...

<b><u>Thessaloniki</b></u>

<u>WARNING</u>: Long post!

Day 23, cont.

From Vergina, it wasn't far -- just over an hour -- to <b>Thessaloniki</b>, Greece's second largest city, with, I believe, something over 300,000 residents in the city and perhaps a total of about 1 million in the greater area.
• From my perspective, that is not a particularly large city, but oh my! -- after weeks in much, much smaller places, I felt like I was entering a mega-city as
• I caught glimpses of hillsides filled with white buildings, descending to glitteringly blue waters.

Returning my car to Hertz at the airport proved extraordinarily easy.
• I was soon in a taxi, en route to the
• Quirky, wonderful, and well-located <b>The Caravan B&B</b>, which, as I was to learn, offers commendable customer service. Kudos to the young men who own and run this place!
• As I had requested, my room had a bit of a view over a former mosque (the Hamza Bey), turned (I'm told) into a movie theater, then abandoned, and now showing signs of ongoing restoration. My views were from a tiny balcony from my bathroom – seriously! But it was positioned to afford absolute privacy, so as odd as it sounds, I enjoyed my little balcony.
• I walked around a bit to familiarize myself with the area and buy a bottle of wine.

Having read that the Trigano Tower was THE place in Thessaloniki from which to watch the sun set,
• I asked my hotel staff to help me figure out how to get there – and was given a map and verbal directions, along with instructions on how to use the tram and the necessary coins.
• It was only about a block to the relevant bust stop, and once on board, a young man helped me figure out how to pay and stamp my ticket, and the bus driver kindly made sure I found the right stop.

The views from the <b>Trigano Tower</b> were impressive -- a sweeping vista out over the old walled city and the sea.
• BUT if this tower is a good place for the sunset, then I think it must depend on the time of year, or maybe one needs to be inside (and it was closed at the time).
• I could see the changing of the light, but I had no line of sight to the actual sunset.

I walked around the lively area near this tower a bit.
• And then I found the bus stop for my return trip, just outside a church were a wedding reception was being held.
• I sat with my back to them, but enjoyed listening to the celebration.
• There was an electronic sign above the bus stop that, when I arrived, said it would be 9 minutes until the next bus. I glanced again when it said 2 minutes, and then, after what seemed a long time, I looked and it said 19 minutes!?! I have no idea what happened.
• The bus did eventually arrive and I showed the driver the address of The Caravan and he made sure I knew when to get off.
• But it wasn’t where I had boarded, and I didn't see any street names, and so I had no idea where I was!
• I decided to walk toward the water, and soon saw buildings that I had seen in that initial walk-around, and
• Just another block or two and there it was!

After freshening up a bit, I walked a few blocks to
• <b>Sempriko</b>, a casual and comfortable restaurant where I enjoyed my dinner and the taste of dessert I was given afterwards.
• Although it was after midnight when I left the restaurant, I couldn't help but notice that the
• Streets were still lively -- one of the ways in which the city's large university contributes to the local culture.


<u>Day 24</u>

Breakfast at The Caravan included a nice array of items and an absolutely delicious type of preserves made with red rose. Although The Caravan didn’t offer the lavish spreads I had encounered elsewhere, it was still commendable for some yummy options.

Once ready, I began my day with a stroll through various <b>markets</b> -- one that I believe is called the Bezesteni market and another that I think is called the Modiano market.
• The first part was a half-empty Ottoman building that looked to me like a converted hamam, and beyond that,
• a set of open air stalls filled the streets between shops of what seemed every description.
• I enjoyed the vibrant colors of fruits and vegetables for offer at the produce stands, and the interesting cuts of meat at butchers' stalls, and the bounty of the sea at fishmongers' counters.
• And there were herbs and flowers and nuts and olives ... soooo many different kinds of olives! (That was true of every market I visited in Greece. How I wanted to learn the advantages of each and every variety!)

I walked through a large public square (<b>Dikastirion Square</b>, I believe) where bits of lawn and a few trees were interspersed among crossing walkways and
• cement benches had holes through them, I suspect to allow drainage after rain, but I could easily be wrong!
• I passed the closed <b>Bey Hamam</b>, which seemed in poor repair, and
• an intriguing ancient fountain, most of which was beneath the level of the current road.

A row of dead trees marked the entrance to the impresssive <b>Agia Sofia</b>.
• While I did not think comparisons the Istanbul's Hagia Sofia fair or reasonable, I still found much to treasure in this 8th century church, including the
• Glorious mosaics of its central dome and the
• Use of ancient capitals in differing styles, some with leaves that seemed to go across rather than up.

I then walked along a very lively street with
• some interesting Art Deco and other buildings. (Much oF the city had been destroyed by a fire in 1917, opening the way for erection of any number of architectural experiments.)
• Passing through the <b>Platia Aristotelous</b> and its many cafes, I reached Thessaloniki's
• beautiful promenade-lined waterfront. The inland side of the walk held shops and cafes, many with outdoor tables; the other side is edged by the sea wall.
• People strolled or rode bikes and old men fished, with a view of a few boats in the near distance and,
• Alternately hiding in clouds along the far horizon, or stepping out to reveal a gloriously snow-capped cone, glorious Mt. Olympus.
• As I neared the end of this lovely seafront promenade, I stopped briefly for some refreshment, and then visited the

<b>White Tower</b>, which had offered an enticingly attractive goal as I proceeded along the sea's edge.
• The tower holds a museum of the history of the city that I thought extremely well done.
• Each floor -- there are seven, IIRC -- is devoted to a different theme, with well signed displays and interactive videos and maps and objects....
• The floors are connected by a spiral ramp at the outer edge, with occasional windows that offer a variety of views over the sea and city.
• The top floor had been planned as a cafe, and although it no longer has that function, the cafe tables remain, and their tops are still video screens that show the preparation of various traditional Greek foods. Cool!
• The top of the White Tower offers delightful views in all directions, and when I was there,
• Mt. Olympus emerged from the distant clouds to bedazzle. Wow!

I returned briefly to the waterfront for a welcome beer before heading, with a few missteps (signage was, IMO, poor), to Thessaloniki's <b>Archeological Museum</b>.
• It's most impressive collection, IMO, was of gold and other artifacts from Macedonian graves, similar in the awesome craftsmanship to those I had seen in Vergina.
• The museum also held a wonderful collection of regional artifacts, including statues from its Roman history, and a
• Large collection of sarcophagi, displayed outside the main building.

From there, I went around the corner to the <b>Museum of Byzantine Culture</b>.
• Once I confirmed the hours, I went straight to its pleasant courtyard cafe for a much appreciated glass of wine.
• What an awesome museum! Incredibly well curated and signed, this museum does a wonderful job of laying out the nearly thousand-year history of Byzantine art and culture, and
• it does so with some extraordinary examples.
• Even though I was tired when I got here, I spent hours here being awed and absorbed by the experience.
• When I finally finished my visit, hours later, I again realized how tired I was!
• Another glass of wine (with some aspirin) at the museum's café did a great deal to revive me.

Refreshed, I returned to the waterfront to explore a bit more to the other side of the White Tower.
• I walked by some interesting modern art installations as a slight drizzle began.
• I enjoyed the views and breezes and another dramatic sky: With clouds of every shade from white to black, and a decided chop to the sea, and the sound of water slapping against the seawall, I watched the light change as the sun began to set.
• But I wouldn't have a direct view of the sunset, and I was tired, and the rain was intensifying…
• I soon walked a block or two inland to a bus stop, where it was only minutes until one that would serve my needs arrived.

Glad that actually knew how to use the buses, and this time, knowing where I wanted to get off, I
• I easily found my way back to The Caravan.
• I welcomed a hot shower before walking to

<b>7 Thalasses</b>, a restaurant that I knew would be a bit of a splurge, but it sounded special!
• My meal was delicious, but the service and setting left a little room for improvement, IMO.
• Thankfully, it was not an outrageous splurge…


<u>Day 25</u>

While in Thessaloniki, I had an ambitious desire to see all 12 of the Byzantine churches that are (along with some other paleo-Christian and Byzantine sites) part of its UNESCO World Heritage Site inscription, but I knew that oddities of opening times would make that well nigh impossible.
• I had done my best to formulate a plan in advance, and
• George of The Caravan, who knew them all, helped me revise my plan in ways that drastically improved my experience. Kudos, George!
• So after another tasty breakfast, including more of that red rose preserve, I set out.

First up for this day:
• <b>Panagia Chalkeon</b (Byzantine church #2 – Agia Sofia was the 1st one I saw). From the 11th century, I thought this church particularly notable for its beautifully proportioned and refined architectural details.
• Few of its frescoes have survived, but those that are there were impressive, and it's
• Icons stand out against the richly varied hues of the interior brickwork.

It was only steps to the <b>Roman Agora</b>, the centerpiece of which is an
• unusual bath area, where people would have relaxed in individual "sit-tubs" (for lack of a better word!) with a place to sit and a small lower place for one's feet
• arranged in a spoke-like array around a central area from which heat, and/or perhaps steam (a question under debate), would have flowed. Cool!
• The Roman Agora also includes an odeon, the lower part of what was once a large agora, and a small museum.
• I’m glad I made time for this site!

The 7th century <b>St. Demetrios</b> (#3) is quite large and very grand, and
• includes an impressive treasury, any number of priceless icons, and
• accessble crypts (which are, I was told, actually connected via underground passages to all of the other Byzantine churches of Thessaloniki -- passages used for various purposes during eras unfavorable to Greek Orthodox religious beliefs).

The 14th century <b>Church of the Prophet Elijah</b> (#4) held a
• very large collection of icons in a rather spare, mostly white and black interior.
• I saw only a few traces of its original frescoes, mostly in window arches.
• Nonetheless, I thought it's proportions and full-length portico made for a particularly pleasant exterior.
• I think I reached this church just as it was about to close for the lunch hour; I greatly appreciated the patience shown by the man with the keys.
• From there I walked ever more steeply uphill, with glances back to see the sea glittering in the narrow space defined by the narrowing street.

The <b>Latomou Monastery</b>, aka the Church of Osios David (#5), from the 6th century, is small, but truly exceptional, IMO.
• Its main mosaic, in the hemispheric wall behind and above the altar, and a fresco on a side wall, escaped destruction during the Byzantine Iconoclasm because (if I heard correctly) their keepers hid them under hides and then painted the hides.
• I reached this church just after an English-speaking couple, and the man who described himself as the "current keeper" gave the three of us a delightfully detailed and engaging description of the history and symbolism of these treasures.
• I am so very lucky to see these places! And to learn about them!
• I feel extraordinarly fortunate to have seen many of Thessaloniki’s magnificent Byzantine masterpieces, and of course, I can’t speak to those I missed, but OMG, Osios David is truly outstanding! If any of you visit Thessaloniki, consider making it a priority.

Climbing further uphill, streets became ever more narrow and were replaced, in parts, by stairs.
• I slowly, very slowly, plodded ever upwards, glad to have plenty of water on this oppressively hot day.
• It probably wasn't as far as it felt when I reached the ridge line along which this stretch of the 4th and 5th century city walls (which are also part of the WHS inscription) stand.

From there, it wasn't far to the 14th centurary <b>Vlatades Monastery</b> (aka Vlatadon) (#6).
• The grounds were open, but the church had closed for siesta.
• Even so, it was easy to admire stunning views out over the city.
• I walked around a bit to at least admire the church’s exterior and to
• Pay compliments to the several (four?) peacocks sunning themselves in a cage along with several peahens and some chickens and other fowl.

By the time I pulled myself away from these views, I was tired and thirsty.
• I was able to buy a bottle of water at Vlatadon's bookshop, and then headed off in search of a taverna.
• George, of the Caravan, had told me of one taverna that he noted was really old – it had been there for more than 100 years! I managed to keep my face straight as I told him that in the U.S., we don't think of something as "really" old unless it's at least two or three hundred years old. He paused, with his eyes still on the map, and as he clarified that he was referring to the age of a taverna, he looked at me, and we both laughed.
• In any case, I was about ready to kill for a beer, and as I headed down and down and down, still in the heat of the day, I took some hope, knowing that at least this taverna was ahead, even if I didn't want to go that far.
• And then, rounding a corner, there was the <b>Taverna Igglis</b>, the place George had mentioned! And it was open and ooh, I enjoyed that beer!
• I am always amazed at how even a brief stop and refreshing beverage -- and maybe an aspirin or two --can revive me.
• It wasn't long before I started walking again, passing the closed 14th century St. Nicholas Orphanos (# 7) before returning to the lower town.

There, I went straight to the <b>Rotunda of St. George</b>.
• OMG!!! I do at lot of research before my trips, and I usually know what I'm going to visit and why, but I surely missed something this time, as I was
• Completely blown away by the grandeur and elegance and colors and style of the Rotunda's extant mosaics.
• Huge and of gorgeous proportions, I can barely imagine it's one-time splendor.
• Ι σpent a lot of time admiring this space, and also
• Walking around the exterior, taking in the minaret that was added during the city's Ottoman times. If I understand correctly, the Rotunda was built as a church or temple In the early 300s, converted to an Orthodox Church, then -- much later -- converted to a mosque, and even later, back to a church....
• Truly awesome!

Walking along a street that edges excavations of the ancient boulevard connecting the Rotunda to the Palace of Galerius, I next stopped at the
• <b>Arch of Galerius</b>, also dating from the city's Roman era, and
• Providing a fascinating insight into the city's prevailing winds:
• Some sides of the arch's original deep reliefs retain depth and surprising clarity; other sides are so worn as to be nearly unidentifiable.

The nearby St. Panteleimon was closed temporarily, as was the
· 14th centurary <b>Church of the Savior</b> (#8) but oh, what a gem!
• Dwarfed by the high rises that edge it by what must be one of Thessaloniki's busiest and most hectic intersections, this
• tiny church nonetheless commanded my attention, with its
• slightly tilting, but otherwise perfect copula- shaped dome. I’m not sure if it is ever open....

Churches abound in Thessaloniki, and I passed any number of others in this area. Although my focus was on those that are part of the UNESCO inscription,
• I took a few moments to enter a large modern church here, and while I found elements to appreciate, it didn't have the pull on me that the older churches had.
• I took advantage of the few moments before the post-lunch opening of one to
• relax over a glass of wine (and more aspirin). By the time I finished,
• <b>St. Panteleimon</b> (#9) was open. I appreciated the delicacy of some of this 14th century church's features, the placement of a baptismal font in an exterior gazebo-like structure, and the flowering plants adorning the small walled grounds.

I then returned to the road edging excavations of the route from the Rotunda to the Palace of Galerius. As I expected,
• access to this archeological site was closed for the day. I'm sure I would have enjoyed it, but it was a low priority for me, particularly because the main excavations are open to the air.
• Ι walked around and admired the foundations of the Octagon, and
• Admired the many cats stretched out here and there in the sun, or grooming themselves in the shade.

Thanks to The Caravan's George, I knew that there were catacombs near Agia Sofia.
• There was construction work in the area, but I
• I saw a bit of a pool and ancient column by the open-air part.
• Although I don't normally eat a mid-day meal, I found that I was hungry!
• A nearby eatery, the <b>Estrella</b>, offered a welcome solution: a hearty bagel sandwich and large, fresh glass of juice.

The surprisingly spacious and light 5th century <b>Church of the Acheiropoietos</b> (#10) provided an
• Intriguing contrast to the churches I had already seen.
• A service was in progress, so I didn't explore it as fully as I would have liked.

I readily admit that I was tired by then.
• I found a store within a block of my hotel where I could buy some preserves of red rose to give as gifts (I've learned to avoid buying even small tastes of foodstuffs as gifts because of their weight, but I couldn't resist!), and then I
• Returned to my B&B and nearly collapsed!
• I sat with my journal for a while, but the pull of things-to-do soon drew me into a restorative shower, and I went out again.

My goal for this outing was a pier that marks the edge of Thessaloniki's harbor, a pier that the men of the Caravan recommended for sunset.
• Only a few blocks away, it was a pleasant place where couples strolled and young people gathered and
• Freshening breezes cooled the air.
• I won't wax poetic about the views: the sun set behind a series of rather ugly derricks (like one sees at oil fields) with a chain metal fence marking the edge of the pier. That said,
• Nonetheless, I could see the light change, and a few clouds that the descending sun brushed with color, and
• to the south, there was a small island with an art installation that caught the changing light in interesting ways, and
• to the east, the lights of the city came on against the darkening sky.
• All-in-all, quite nice!
• As the day cooled, and with the sound of the sea first lapping, and later heaving, against the sea walls, I turned back into town.

I walked through the Platia Aristotelous, which was even more lively at night than during the day, and then
• strolled north almost as far as the Roman Forum.
• I didn't want a big meal, but I did want to eat something and my Caravan men recommended <b>Tsarouches</b> -- perfect!
• This popular little place is one where you look through a window to see what’s available, point to what you want, and soon understand why it is a VERY popular place.
• I was lucky -- a seat was available when I got there.
• I had a wonderfully flavorful bowl of chicken soup and bread -- exactly what I needed!
• Back to my room for another glimpse from my balcony before much needed sleep.
•
•
• <u>Day 26</u>
•
After breakfast, I walked to the 14th century
• <b>Church of the Holy Apostles</b> (#11). Many of its frescoes had been badly damaged, but
• some d the higher ones gave a sense of how beautiful they must once have been.
• Unfortunately, the 13th century <b>St. Catherine</b> (#12) was closed when I reached it, so I could only admire its exterior.
• I was about to walk back into town, when a taxi approached -- I hailed it, and took the opportunity to try to see the interior of the church at Vlatadon, the hill- topping home to peacocks that I had visited the day before.
• It was open, but it's frescoes, too, had been badly damaged. Nonetheless, there were a few preserved elements, and it was
• A lavishly decorated space, with a great deal of gold and many priceless icons.
• (Woohoo! I made it to all 12 of the Byzantine churches of the UNESCO WHS inscription! OK, three were closed, but I think I did pretty well!)

The one remaining thing I wanted to do in Thessaliniki was to visit the <b>Folklore and Ethnology Museum of Macedonia</b>, so I walked to the taxi rank near the Trigonan Gate.
• To give you an idea of just how obscure this museum is, even George had never heard of it!
• I wasn't surprised when the taxi driver said he didn't know it, but he immediately got on his smart phone and started looking. And looking. And looking. And then he gave up.
• Having studied maps when planning, I knew it was near the waterfront well to the east of the White Tower -- not enough information to find it, but maybe enough to find someone who knew it?
• So I had the taxi driver leave me off around where I had finished my walk a few nights before and I started walking.
• Ι αsked several people, but only one -- perhaps the third or fourth person I asked -- seemed certain that he knew it, and the best directions he could give me involved pointing in the direction in which I was headed.
• I was about to give up when, oh, there it is!
• And I'm so glad I saw it!
• A small museum in a lovely old mansion, it holds an impressive collection of folk costumes from throughout Macedonia and Thrace.
• It also has informative displays of customs – carding wool and weaving and flailing grain and fulling, etc.
• And the museum staff could not have been kinder – they seemed delighted to share their treasures!
• Although clearly not of the same caliber as several of this city's other museums, I thought it rather sad that so few people seem to know of it.

I easily found a bus,
• returned to The Caravan, claimed my luggage, and said farewell to the young men who had made me feel so welcome in this decidedly underrated city.
• A taxi, a flight, and I was off for the last destination of my trip, Athens.


Next up: Athens, part 1 of 2

kja

Oh growl -- I thought I had made sure I turned bold off whenever necessary! So sorry to "scream" at you.

yestravel

I'm covering my ears and hiding under the bed

thursdaysd

That's an impressive amount of walking for someone with a bad thigh!

gertie3751

I love Thessaloniki. So vibrant and full of young people having a good time. When I was there (about 10 years ago now) I was more interested in the history, the old Turkish town on the hill, Ataturk, the 1917 fire and the 1944 Jewish deportation. Thought the Byzantine Museum was one of the best I have seen anywhere. I might have stumbled over a few of your churches but am going to print all that out for next time.
Bit worried about your aspirin consumption. Is it because of the thigh? At the pace you go I guess every little helps.

tripplanner001

Just catching up. Glad you were able to visit as many of the monasteries in Meteora as you did, in spite of the challenges. I had known little to nothing about Thessaloniki until I read your report; now I'm curious how it compared in your mind versus Athens.

kja

@ yestravel: Wise decision! I hope your ears have stopped ringing now…

@ thursdaysd: It was a lot of walking -- and IMO, wonderful evidence that I was recovering strength and stamina. But oh, I was tired!

@ gertie: Isn’t Thessaloniki a delightfully vibrant place? And I agree -- that Byzantine Museum was excellent. Thanks for your concern; aspirin were not a usual need, but that day, I ached all over!

@ tripplanner: Wow, I’m not sure how to begin a comparison of Thessaloniki and Athens, as they are incredibly different. Athens has the Parthenon; so many ruins (Greek, and also Roman) that basically nothing can be built without finding and working around them; and an incredible array of worthy museums, including several that were, IMO, exceptional. Thessaloniki doesn’t really have any major ancient Greek ruins, but lots of Roman and Byzantine sites (and many of the Byzantine churches are still in use); it doesn’t have a LOT of museums, but those it does have are, IMO, of very high quality. Athens was filled with tourists and restaurants and shops that cater to them, and my sense was that those in the tourism industry learned long ago not to expect tourists to even acknowledge their existence (overstated, of course, but I think there’s some truth there). Thessaloniki seemed filled with students, and those in the tourism industry seemed thrilled to see that someone Western had included Thessaloniki in an itinerary. Just my impressions. Both have a LOT to offer.