yestravel

I know what you mean about difference with people who "cruise." I think I am ok with the much smaller ships, but not the apt sized one. They are dreadful and I couldn't imagine going on one with 1,000's of people. Anyway, moving along with your delightful report. Curious to read what you think of Knossos.

Heimdall

Thursdaysd, sorry to hear about your health issues. I too have been cutting back on travel for health reasons, but my solution would be to pick a place I love, get there by the most efficient means possible, then stay there and relax.

Some of the stories I've heard about cruise ship excursions put me off completely. I'm thinking in particular about up to 2 hrs wait for the cable car down to the ship tenders on Santorini.

kja

@ thursdaysd: Know that I’m rooting for you to find a way to travel that works within your whatever limitations you face, now or later. I take my hat off to you for making it through the Samaria Gorge at age 59!

@ yestravel: Those monster ships are a blight, aren’t they? Knossos coming up in a few days, if all goes as planned…. I hope that you will then share your reactions.

@ Heimdall: I hope you are finidng some absolutely wonderful places to relax! BTW, I don’t know if they were cruise-ship occupants or not, but I walked by the line waiting for that cable car while on Santorini, and wouldn’t be surprised if some people waited even longer than 2 hours -- that was one LONG line!

someotherguy

Useful web site for discovering what cruise ships will be in port when: http://ports.cruisett.com/

lancer11

kja,
Can you recommend where I can get a good map of Chania? Either a good old fashion hand map or an offline app for my phone. Unfortunately we only have one full day there. We are staying in Rethmymnon and taking the bus there and back. Thanks

kja

@ someotherguy: Thanks for posting that link! And thanks for following along.

@ lancer: If you want paper, I’d opt for a Michelin map.
https://www.amazon.com/Michelin-Map-...elin+map+crete
Believe it or not, I still don’t have a smart phone, so I have NO clues about map apps! Of course, with only one day, you don’t have much time to explore….

. . . .

<u><b>Rethymno</b></u>

(day 3, cont.)

With the help of my now English-speaking GPS, I enjoyed the views of mountains and coast as I made my way to Rethymno,
• where my GPS believed that I should drive through the main gate to the fortress, or, in lieu of that, to drive down a set of stairs. Argh! Now, it might seem obvious to YOU that neither of these were reasonable options, but at least the gate seemed like an option at first (until I was partially through it), and I could only tell that the stairs were stairs after I got out of the car to consider my options.
• To repeat: Argh!
• It took a while, but I maneuvered the car out of the area and into the Old Town, where
• I checked into the <b>Fortezza Hotel</b>, which was well located, but otherwise a bit disappointing.

I freshened up, walked around the area by my hotel a bit, and then headed for the lighthouse, where I enjoyed some lovely views.
• I then made my way around the <b>Venetian Harbor</b>, with its tightly packed tables and hawkers vying for business. Unlike in Chania, where the harbor's edge was outside the table area, in Rethymno, the tables line the water; the walkway is between the tables and the indoor parts of the restaurants. I preferred the arrangement in Chania.
• I took a bit of a walk along <b>Rethymno Beach</b>, admiring the waterfront and sea and the distant mountains, including one that was still beautifully capped with snow, and then
• headed into the town itself.

Making my way through rIngs of shop-filled streets with wares ranging from vey high end merchandise to the tackiest of souvenirs,
• I finally found my way to the Cathedral, and although it was closed, I appreciated its white walls and arches and separate bell tower.
• It wasn't far to the <b>Church of the Four Martyrs</b>, which I could enter. As I was to learn, it was not atypical of the relatively modern churches I later saw elsewhere in Greece -- many icons, some quite precious; tall windows of circles of colored glass (no stained glass of the type I think of elsewhere in Europe – these were generally in pastel shades, and formed no particular pattern that was immediately obvious); large, wide candelabra hung above the space before the altar, often with notable ornamentation; and use of a flower-bedecked (or dried flower-bedecked) cart-like structure to place lighted offering candles.
• A short walk through a park-like medial strip brought me to the <b>Municipal Garden</b>, where I had just enough time for a short stroll. Not much was in bloom, but the shady space was pleasant, and it was clearly a place that a number of older residents found worth visiting.

I hoped to see the sunset from Rethymno, and a woman at my hotel’s desk told me that the BEST place to watch it would be from the fortress. (Yes, huggy, if you’re reading this post, we really were talking about BEST best.) I was a bit surprised, as I had thought that the fortress closed at sunset, but she seemed sure about it, and who am I to question locals? It was a bit later than I had hoped when I left the garden, so
• I moved very quickly through a few quiet back streets and then a few streets with an increasing presence of tourism (cafes and shops and B&Bs), stopping only very briefly in the small icon-filled <b>Mikri Panagia</b> (Our Lady of Angels).
• With the pre-sunset moments quickly slipping away, I huffed and puffed my way uphill to the Venetian fortress, climbing the stairs that the GPS wanted me to drive down and walking to the main gate and,
• patting myself on the shoulder for getting to the top with time to spare and just yards to go,
• a woman shut the gate. Growl!
• I confirmed that there were no walking paths outside the far walls, and although there weren’t, I was at least rewarded by some stunning views down to the coast.
• As much as I would have enjoyed a rest at one of the stair-side cafes, I moved as quickly as my tired legs would permit to reach the stretch of coast west of the city.
• I had missed the actual sunset, but OMG, I saw some wonderful streaks of color as the day's last rays captured various clouds, with reflections glinting off the shifting sea. Nice!

As I slowly walked back to my hotel, I thought how much I was going to enjoy a quick dip in it's pool, a rare opportunity for me, as I don't usually book lodging that has a pool.
• I changed quickly, found my way, stepped in, and ...
• OMG! that water was COLD!
• My time in that pool was short. Very, very short.

Once I warmed up, I went to <b>Avli</b> for dinner. On the upscale side, the food, service, and setting were all wonderfully memorable – such a perfect place to end this day, and (again) think about how fortunate I am!


<b>Day 4 – Rehtymno, continued</b>

I enjoyed a nice breakfast buffet at the Fortezza before heading out for the day, which I began by exploring more of Rethymno's Old Town.
• I was charmed by the <b>Remini Fountain</b> and
• Glad to see the outside of "the" mosque and it's minaret, and another mosque that seemed to be under renovation, and seemed even more interesting to me, as it had a bit of lawn and some burial markers.
• I was less enamored of the extent to which this part of Rethymno has been given over to tourism and shops. JMO. At least I found cheap sunglasses to replace those I had lost.
• I also confirmed that I couldn't buy TomTom maps or a GPS that day. Sigh.

I thought the <b>Historical and Folk Art Museum</b> well with seeing, particularly for its extensive collection of exquisite textiles. Awesome!

I then turned to the <b>Venetian Fortress</b>:
• I climbed that long set of stairs once again, but this time, I treated myself to a beer near the top.
• Before entering the fortress, I learned that Rethymno's archeology museum had moved into town. Growl! I had been so very close earlier that day!
• The fortress itself was much more interesting than I had expected. Although largely in ruins, they were evocative ruins, and
• The views were stunning, whether to the White Mountains or the sea or the coast!
• And soooo many wildflowers in glorious bloom. Wow!

I slowly walked back into town and then to my car, where, to my surprise,
• my key did not work! What?!?
• I tried, tried again, took a deep breath and tried again – no luck!
• With another deep calming breath (best taken SLOWLY, by the way), I started to go to my hotel to ask for assistance in dealing with the situation.
• Steps later, I saw another car that looked like mine – huh? Same model, same Hertz logo, same everything, except that one license plate ended with 3 and one with 8. What an odd coincidence!
• Relieved, I unlocked my car and headed onwards.

Next up: From Rethymno to Heraklion

HappyTrvlr

I am so sad to near that Chania is now now a part of cruise ship itineries. We love being by the water and sad to see them so over run. Cruise ships and ugly Americans are my main memory of Santorini. Couldn't wait to leave.

kja

@ HappyTrvlr: I agree! At least cruise ships didn’t seem to be visiting Chania EVERY day.


Heads-up: Looks like I might need to take a day or two before posting my next installment. As we all know, there’s a reason they call work “work.”

Heimdall

HappyTrvlr, your post made me laugh! Are all Americans ugly, or only the ones you noticed?

stanbr

Lets not get too carried away about cruise ships going to Chania. We are not talking about Santorini type activity where several ships arrive on the same day and 30 tour buses arrive in Oia at the same time.

We have been in Chania when a single cruise ship has been anchored outside the breakwater. Passengers were tendered ashore about 100 people at a time. Chania easily absorbed these people and there was no noticeable influx of people. One evening a special event ( a concert) took place and the cruise ship passengers came in bunches and sat in chairs at the concert along with all the rest of us tourists.

At this point the cruise ships are not a daily occurrence and a single cruise ship does not present a problem for Chania to absorb the influx of people. One ship is good for the local economy.

FuryFluffy

Bookmarked to read later (I've been back after a month of traveling too).

I'm so glad you had a great trip, kja. From what you like most about Greece, I agree about everything, especially the generosity and graciousness of Greek people, and, of course, the scenic view. From what you like least, well cucumber with seed and no peel is the real cucumber
Always a pleasure to read your trip report.

crazyh

We were on Crete and spent our time in Chania in early-mid October and found it a wonderful time to be there. Less tourists, lower prices and still nice weather.

However, there was still a "buzz" going on in Chania. Lots of locals from the "new" town go to the Old Town for dining, shopping and just hanging out in a wonderful Old-World atmosphere, so there'll never be a time when it's deserted or boring.

We didn't see any cruise ships in October so can't comment on how invasive the tour ships are but in October it was simply "lively" without being over-run by pushy and demanding tourists.

We lucked out and experienced a Raki-Making Festival with exhibits on how to make Raki, free Raki, roasted potatoes, peanuts and cheese and all you can eat/drink at no cost! There was a local band than was outstanding, local dances in traditional customs and just a wonderful, wild and "Greek" experience!

Off-season in Greece is perfect to experience what the country is all about, less-touristy and more local atmosphere, wonderful natives who want to share their culture, history and "lust-for-life" philosophy and what it is to be Greek!

kja

@ HappyTrvlr &
@ Heimdall: LOL, I missed that completely and just snorted my wine when I read it (and read it again)!

@ stanbr: You raise an important point, and I thank you for ensuring that we keep perspective about cruise ships in Chania. You are confirming what I already said – that cruise ships don’t currently visit on a daily basis. Thank goodness! But my experience was, apparently, unlike yours – I really believe that the number of visitors that day in early May came very close to the maximum the Old Town’s tourism infrastructure could absorb. Virtually every table was taken with loud revellers. Shops were so jammed that I saw numerous people knock merchandise over while attempting to enter or exit. And streets were so packed that I couldn’t walk without being bumped, shoved, and jostled. I am very happy to say that at other times, I thought Chania utterly charming. I found it frankly unpleasant while the cruise-ship visitors were in port. JMO. I seriously hope that your experience is more typical than mine was.

@ FuryFluffy: Welcome back from your trip! Yes, the people and the scenery of Greece are truly among it’s most wonderful of many wonderful features, aren’t they? But you are simply wrong about cucumbers – wrong! ;-) I’m glad you are enjoying my report.

@ crazyh: Your experience of the Raki-Making Festival in Chania sounds delightful – what a treat! And except for the time that the cruise ship was in port, I found Chania much as you describe it, with a delightfully pleasant ambience and a wonderful combination of affordable restaurants, beautiful views, intriguing back streets, and low-key shops. I am very grateful to have had that experience.

kja

<b><u> From Rethymno to Heraklion </b></u>

(day 4, cont.)

My first stop after leaving Rethymno was <b>Moni Arkadi</b>, which I found very moving. If you don’t know the tragically poignant story, you can read about it here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arkadi_Monastery
• It's many rose bushes were in glorious bloom, and every corner seemed wonderfully scented!
• I thought the small museum interesting. For example, I had always naively believed that liturgical vestments had been stitched by women – not! Apparently the monks here were known for their work with gilt thread, and some tasks were reserved for abbots.
• I had not expected the ossuary just outside the monastery, but thought
• the views down the valley stunning!

I wanted to see an ages-old church in Thronos, and had read that to do so, I would need to go to the <b>Taverna Aravanes</b> to get the key.
• Unfortunately, the people there did not have the key, but
• OMG, what a treat! ;-) I sat on a very pleasant terrace offering absolutely spectacular views over the Amari Valley and still-snowcapped Mt. Ida,
• savoring just-squeezed orange juice, served with dried figs, raisins, and some kind of delicious local treat made of grain. Honestly, another of those why-am-I-so-lucky moments!
• And then, my hostess invited me to sample some of their freshly baked country bread and to help them load the exterior oven with another batch of newly-risen loaves. What an unexpected pleasure!

The key to the <b>Church of the Assumption</b> was held by a woman at a cafe next to the church, so I eventually tore myself away to go there.
• The very kind old woman didn't speak English, but that didn't prevent communication of appreciation for the craftsmanship of the 16th century frescoes (such expressive eyes!) and floor mosaics inside the church, or the 6th century mosaics outside this tiny gem.
• To compensate this sweet old woman as gracefully as I could, I bought quite a few overpriced photos.
• My brief time at this particular church was one of the moments of this trip when I truly wished I could have spoken Greek. I understood enough to know that the woman asked whether I was married or had children, and (I think!) to tell her no, and that I was traveling on my own, and that I was having a wonderful time. We managed, but I think I would have enjoyed an opportunity to engage with her more fully than I could.

I stopped briefly in <b>Spili</b>, where I enjoyed its lion fountain, although I must admit that I don’t think I would have made a point of stopping just for the fountain, had I known what to expect. Honestly, I was not particularly impressed. It took time to find a parking area near the fountain, and then find the fountain, and then to figure out whether the fountain I was seeing really was the one that people come to Spili to see, and then to walk around to make sure I hadn’t missed something, and then to stop at a shop to ask whether this really was THE fountain, and then back to the car….

And then on to <b>Agia Galini</b>, which I had chosen as a place near Phaistos that I could reach before dark and from which I hoped to be able to watch the sun set.
• I admit that I found this leg of the drive -- if not the entire day's drive -- taxing. Up, around and around and around and down and around and up and around and down and around and around and…. There were times that it seemed that the entire route was a never-ending series of blind switchbacks, differing primarily is just how steep they were. And some were steep!
• But OMG, the scenery was beautiful, and it seems that there were wildflowers and blooming shrubs everywhere!

I was warmly greeted at the <b>Sky Beach</b> hotel, where I had reserved an apartment with balcony.
• I unwound from the day with a glass of wine on my balcony, enjoying the scenery – I looked out over an inlet, with a mountain across the way and a glimpse of the sea off to my left.
• I didn't actually see the sun dip into the sea, but I enjoyed some lovely views of the changes in light as the sky shifted from the bright blues of day through yellows and then to the deep blues of night.
• And the sounds of the surf were so nice!

After nightfall, I walked a short path near the water's edge into town.
• It was a pleasant little walk, with refreshing breezes.
• I chose to eat at the <b>Pantheon Roof Garden</b>. If rather mediocre, it was OK and offered a view of the town’s small square, and I appreciated the waiter's attempts to be helpful.


<u><b>Day 5 – Agia Galini, continued</b></u>

Awakening to the delightful rote of the surf,
• I ate a delicious breakfast.
• Upon leaving my hotel, and retracing some narrow, twisting roads,
• I turned a corner to look out over a vast plain -- the first plain I had seen in Crete!

<b>Phaistos</b> was positioned to overlook those fertile plains, and ooh, some of those views were impressive!
• I thought the site awesome and well signed in English.
• I particularly appreciated learning a bit about the use of light wells, and decorative elements to the flooring, and lustral basins….
• And on a much more mundane level, I liked seeing that each table at the cafe had a resident feline, stretched on or under one of the chairs, and each seemed to be in generally good health.

Next planned stop: Gortyna. Unfortunately, my GPS had other ideas. Round and round and round I went!
• I spent time maneuvering through several tiny villages that were clearly NOT designed for cars, and
• Waiting for a herd of goats, and its aggressively protective dogs, to clear my path, and
• testing various spellings of Gortyna on the GPS.
• I finally gave up.
• I entered a new destination -- Heralkion – into my GPS and set off.

Just a few miles later, OMG! -- a road sign for Gortyna! Finally! Minutes later, I pulled in to its parking lot. My reactions to <b>Gortyna</b> were mixed.
• There wasn't much to see, or at least not a lot that was open when I got there -- just the odeon and a closed and gated arcade holding some statues,
• BUT there was a wall behind the odeon's "stage" that had been engraved with the city's laws, and that was something that I found completely awesome!
• And, as I had known in advance, there are numerous bits and pieces of ancient Gortyna scattered beneath ancient olive trees throughout the area,
• and remnants of a temple in a field by a taverna.
• If less well preserved than I anticipated, it was also delightfully scattered. I'm very glad to have seen it!

Ready to move on to Heraklion, I faced some challenges.
• To my frustration, I had been unable to program the GPS to the address of the Hertz agency in Heraklion to which I was to return the car.
• Needing to fill up on gas, I went into the city and pulled into a gas station in an area near where I thought I should be.
• Although none of the gas station’s staff were able to help, a very kind man who happened to stop for gas while I was there oferred his assistance and figured it out:
• OMG, the street I needed to reach was recently converted to a pedestrian-only zone! (And a special growl here – that happened to me in Turkey, too. Seriously! I would think that it would be to the advantage of a rental car company to let people know if the return address changes. Argh!)
• This helpful gentleman at last managed to enter the address into my GPS
• With many thanks, I pulled back into traffic and

Into a nightmare. Maneuvering Heraklion's very narrow, twisting, one-way streets would, I think, have been a challenge under the best of circumstances. These were not the best circumstances.
• After circling around several times, I finally found the correct now-closed-to-traffic street, but I had no idea where the office was among the several now closed blocks.
• I had seen a public parking lot not too far away, so I managed (eventually) to find my way there, and was glad that the lot was half-empty, so I didn't feel too bad about asking for a space.
• I tried to explain my situation to the lot attendant, but wasn't sure he understood.
• In the end, I took lots of photos of the car and set off on foot.

Finally reaching the Hertz office, a woman on duty excused herself from a couple with whom she had been talking and came with me to the parking lot,
• where the man apparently tried to get me/us to pay. He did so in Greek, so all I knew was that there was a ... uh ... vigorous discussion.
• And then she told me to get into the car, and as we left, she said he tried to get us to pay -- 'as he always does.' I guess I’m not the first person to have tried this solution!
• She parked the car a few blocks from the office, said goodbye, and started to leave.
• Wait, my luggage!?! Oh, right. I took it from the trunk as she started to trot off again. No paperwork? No (shouted over her shoulder). Uh, don't you need to check the fuel level and look for damage? Done (called from a growing distance). Don't I get some proof that I returned it to you? Oh, uh, here, take this (the original of my rental agreement, waved at me until I caught up and took it from her). Did she want the GPS unit back. Full stop. GPS? Yes. It's not listed on your rental agreement. Right, and as I began to explain, she cut me off, thanked me very nicely, took the GPS, and trotted off to her office.
• She had apparently been the ONLY person on duty, and had left the office unattended while she helped me. OMG! I honestly can NOT imagine that happening in the U.S. – no wonder she was in such a hurry!

I soon hailed a taxi….

Next up: My time in and around Heraklion

yestravel

Quite the experience with your car. I remember leaving our rental at a huge lot near the ferry. It felt strange to just leave a car like that, but we had no trouble afterwards and it was easy. Car rental returns can be so stressful.

thursdaysd

I am so glad I took the bus! You saw more than I did, but I don't think my nerves would have survived driving! Much kudos for coping.

kja

@ yestravel: You are so right -- car returns can be really stressful! Leaving a car somewhere, with no actual check-in, is something I've had to do at home a few times, and I find it so strange! While grateful for the convenience, I'm never fully comfortable that all will be OK...

@ thursdaysd: Thanks, but again, I'm not sure I deserve kudos for driving -- as already established, I don't make a very good passenger!

kja

<b><u>My time in and around Heraklion</b></u>

Day 5, continued

A short taxi ride brought me to the well-located <b>Olive Green Hotel</b>, where I received excellent service. After freshening up, I went out for a long walk,
• through Platia Eliftherias and
• A public garden where children played and couples chatted, and then
• Outside the city walls for a few blocks, and then
• Through the New Gate to the top of the Heraklion’s preserved <b>city walls</b>, now a park, complete with lanes for waking or biking and flowers and shrubs and some small trees.,
• At the <b>Martinengo Bastion</b>, there is a memorial to the writer, Nikos Kazantzakis, as well as
• Views over the city and to the sea and off to a ridge of mountains.
• I got there just as the sun was beginning to set -- wonderful!

Descending from the walls, I
• admired the Venetian <b>Bembo Fountain</b>,
• Walked through a stretch of closing shops, and
• Proceeded to get well and truly lost.
• With some help, I found my way to the lively cafes surrounding <b>El Greco Park</b>.
• From there, it was only a short walk to my hotel.

A little later, I went to <b>Peskesi</b> for a delightful dinner of traditional foods in a lovely setting. Who knew that rooster could be so tender and tasty!?!

As I walked back to my hotel, I heard a very talented street musician playing flamenco guitar. Nice way to end the day!


<u>Day 6</u>

My first priority of the day was to address my GPS problem.
• A quick stop at a nearby electronics shop was sufficient to convince me that I didn't want to pay as much as any readily available system would cost, and so
• I returned to my hotel to try again to purchase maps of Greece for my TomTom.
• WOW, but that proved to be difficult! I'll spare you the details, but I extend my sincere thanks to the staff and management of the Olive Green, who spent more than two hours with me before we achieved success. Whew!

And on to <b>Knossos</b>! Wow and wow!
• No matter what one thinks of the efforts at reconstruction (and honestly, I'm not sure what to think!), Knossos is, IMO, an awesome place.
• And it is extensive! I spent hours and hours roaming around, appreciating the available signage (which I thought quite informative) and fascinated by the engineering feats and the grandeur achieved by the ancient Minoans.
• I am very glad that I saw Knossos and Phaistos on consecutive days, when I could rather easily notice both similarities and differences.
• As I was leaving, I finally saw what I had known were there (because I had been hearing their cries): Peacocks! One was willing to exert his energies on this very hot day to challenge the other peacocks and attract the peahens by raising his tail and strutting. Glorious!

I welcomed a large beer before catching a bus back to Heraklion, where
• I went straight to its excellent <b>Archeological Museum</b>. Among other things, seeing the extant fragments of Knossos's incredibly beautiful and detailed wall paintings conveyed the splendor of Minoan culture.
• As it closed, I went to the <b>Moroni Fountain</b>, and even though a part was covered by scaffolding, I still found it lovely.
• I visited <b>St. Marco's</b>, now a gallery, briefly (what elegant columns!) and
• was surprised that the <b>Venetian Loggia</b> enters into a small interior semicircular courtyard.

After a refreshing shower, I walked to <b>Paralia</b>, a seaside restaurant with
• perfectly grilled calamari and,
• after dinner, a taste of ouzo. Nice enough, but I think I'll stick to wine.
• I strolled the harbor front -- pleasantly quiet at nighttime -- before returning to my hotel.


<u>Day 7</u>

After breakfast, I set out to explore more of Heraklion:
• I admired the icons and elegant stone columns in <b>St. Titus's</b>;
• Noted the odd juxtapositions of wares for offer in a market area; and then
• Enjoyed visiting the collection of religious art at <b>St. Ekaterini's</b>.
• I briefly visited the richly adorned cathedral and a small parish church next to it, and
• Then walked through a relatively uninteresting (IMO) section of town to
• Heraklion's waterfront. As in Chania and Rethymno, I was astonished by the clarity of the water and, ooh, those white-capped mountains in the distance make for a nice backdrop!
• I began my visit to the <b>Historical Museum of Crete</b> with a large, fresh orange juice and view of the waterfront from its cafe, and
• Was then pleased to discover what I thought a very good and diverse collection housed in part in a magnificent Venetian palace and in part in a well-designed modern addition.
• Nearby, the recently restored <b>St. Peter's</b> also merited a brief visit, IMO.

As I strolled along the waterfront, I checked my notes and OMG, the bus I want for Archanes leaves in 12 minutes!
• I ran as fast as I could (which, truth be told, wasn't all that fast) and reached the bus station and found the ticket counter and watched the minutes tick by as the clerk worked with the person before me and finally bought my ticket, as the woman said I had just ONE minute.
• And then I could NOT find the right bay!
• I grabbed a uniformed man's arm, showed him my ticket, and as the bus pulled out, he hailed it, and I got on. Whew, relief! The next bus would have been to late for me, as I had a reservation to visit a winery in Archanes that afternoon..

When the bus reached <b>Archanes</b>, I got off. But, since Archanes was the last stop of this route, shouldn't other people be getting off, too? Thankfully, what I had read in advance was true -- the town is tiny. I believe the entire town is less than a mile long.
• I used my very limited Greek to get directions to the town's <b>Archeological Museum</b>, which was small, but worth seeing, and thankfully, it had excellent signage.
• When I left it, I was given a small map of the town, which proved very helpful.
• I found a cafe and someone there knew the location of the winery I was to visit a few hours later (the address I had was simply the name of the town).

I had read that Archanes has a lot to offer -- olive oil tastings, a shop where one can see traditional weaving demonstrations, etc.
• I hadn't read anything indicating that it would be closed for a very VERY long siesta.
• No problem -- despite the heat, I enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the charming village, where everyone seems to have nurtured a bit of garden and where well-tended cats rested in the shade.
• An hour later having explored nearly every nook and cranny in the town, including a small church that was open,
• I decided that I should take advantage of the time to find the winery I was to visit.
• I climbed various hills and thoroughly exhausted myself in failed efforts.
• Eventually, I went back to the village, where I stopped at a taberna that offers wine tastings. With the help of the proprietor, I learned that although I thought I had a reservation, the winery thought I would confirm the day before (which I hadn't done) and so there was no one at the winery to meet me. Oops!
• Instead, I thoroughly enjoyed a lovely wine tasting at the taberna where I had stopped, <b>Bakaliko</b>.

Glad that I wasn't driving, I returned to Heraklion, showered, and dined at <b>Herb's Garden</b>, with lovely views over Heraklion's Venetian fortress. It was, all too soon, time to prepare for a morning flight.

Next up: Santorini

KarenWoo

kja, I am thoroughly enjoying your trip report to Greece. Sounds like an amazing trip! You covered so much territory, and I admire you for doing all that driving. When we travel, I do the planning, but my husband does all the driving! I was in Greece in 1972 when people could still walk on the Parthenon. From what I understand, the Parthenon has been roped off for quite some time now to preserve it. We did a day trip to the islands near Athens, but I have not seen the other islands, which I hope to do some day. Which island was your favorite? I apologize if you have mentioned this somewhere in your report.

joannyc

Enjoying your TR, kja!