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WillTravel and 14-year-old daughter in Madrid, Amsterdam, London, Seattle - August trip - now the delayed report

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WillTravel and 14-year-old daughter in Madrid, Amsterdam, London, Seattle - August trip - now the delayed report

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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 01:04 PM
  #21  
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We took the metro many times in Madrid, and had no problems with pickpockets. The cars were nice and clean, particularly certain lines. Nor did we have any problem with street crime. I did see the prostitutes on that one street I mentioned. We walked to Lavapies through an interesting neighborhood with lots of picturesque, winding streets, and some parts of this area didn't seem the best.

One morning when I was out walking, I saw a storekeeper, dressed in a dark suit, who was washing his steps by pouring water and sweeping. He looked so formal - it was a very 1950s-type image to me.

The chocolate and churros place praised in Time Out did not seem particularly great to me - I don't have the name handy, though.

On our final return to Madrid airport on our last morning, we did take a cab. The fare was 19 Euros, which doesn't seem bad at all. I had been preparing for 20-something, so had 25 Euros handy. I gave it to the driver, and he was thrilled with the tip. We usually skip cabs, but with the shopping my daughter ended up doing, it was pretty well a necessity.

Next - Amsterdam
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 01:25 PM
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I'm hanging on to your every word. Funny about the reaction to her clothes. I have heard some places in the UK have banned "hoodies," as they have been associated with crime. Here's an article on this:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/b...ts/4365542.stm

Our son hid under his hoodie his freshman year of high school. I agree with you, that it is like a security blanket. (They are also quite convenient in the PNW, where you never know when it's going to sprinkle. In fact, I have a hoodie or two, myself!)
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 01:32 PM
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I'm enjoying reading about your travels with your daughter. What's a "holey dark hoodie?" I'm visualizing a dark sweatshirt with a hood that's got holes in it.

I used to love to go to Bumbershoot in Seattle, too, but the crowds got too overwhelming for me.

I'm looking forward to the rest of your report!
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 01:49 PM
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Thanks everyone for your nice comments.

The Transavia flight to Amsterdam was fine. We even had assigned seats. I haven't bothered to produce itemized costs like I did the last time, but the average cost per budget flight within Europe was 44 Euros each, including all taxes and fees. We were delayed for an hour because the flight staff thought there was an extra person on board. Finally this was resolved, and off we went.

It was past midnight by the time we had walked through Schipol. I knew the trams did not run as often then, and didn't like the idea of public transit in an unknown city at that hour. So we took a taxi (we could have taken a shuttle too). Inside they gave us a fixed rate of 37 Euros. I forgot to ask for that when we got out, but our fare was 37.40 Euros, so it hardly mattered.

I had booked the Best Western Lancaster for 64.50 Euros per night. When we got there sometime after 12:30 AM, we were told our room had a broken lock, so we were being sent by taxi to the Best Western Eden. We're not ones to look a gift horse in the mouth, although I'm doubtful of that story (other reviews indicate this transfer between hotels occurs often). The Lancaster is near the Zoo, and while not a bad location it wouldn't have been terribly convenient. The Eden is right by the Amstel, and is near Rembrandtplein and Waterlooplein. We still kept the 64.50 Euro rate, which included an excellent full breakfast, for a twin room in a 3* centrally located Amsterdam hotel. Needless to say the average rate at the Eden is much higher, so we were very happy. The drawback is that our room was close to a nightclub, Sinners, which was very noisy until the wee hours most nights. But we're sound sleepers so the problem was minimal. Renovations are going on at the Eden, and within a few months or so, it's going to reopen as a 4* hotel. That's too bad in a way, because it was so perfect for our stay in Amsterdam, and it will surely be out of our price range then.
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 03:32 PM
  #25  
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The holey dark hoodie had holes in the forearms, so one could poke her fingers and thumbs through it. It also had a fair number of safety pins.

The Amsterdam hotel was booked through http://www.bookings.nl - a very good site for many cities. I could have gotten a 4* hotel on Priceline in the range of $100 USD + taxes and fees per night, judging from the counteroffers, but I didn't want to spend quite that much, and that wouldn't have included breakfast.

The Eden served breakfast until 10:30 AM on weekends, but only until 10 on weekdays. One day we both slept in until 9:45, but we quickly ran down for our "free" food. There was a good and nutritious selection of hot and cold items, although the food wasn't quite so fancy as at the Tryp Cibeles.
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 06:01 PM
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My daughter loved Amsterdam. There is no language barrier and the atmosphere is easygoing. Several mornings she went to Waterlooplein flea market, right near the hotel, and I went to some more art museums. Altogether we saw, either me alone or both of us, the fairly new Hermitage Amsterdam, Rembrandthuis, the Rijksmuseum, the van Gogh museum, the Stedelijk, and Boijmans van Beuningen in Rotterdam.

She went on her own to Madame Tussaud's, which has an Amsterdam location as well as the more famous London one. The concierge at the Eden hotel had given us discount tickets. She loved this place. I wasn't interested and didn't go in, and I went to an art exhibition at Nieuwe Kirk, also right in Dam Square. When we met up afterwards, I noticed the Hare Krishna serving up vegetarian food (Indian curries) by donation. I briefly considered it, but was a bit worried if they were following proper food storage recommendations. There is a limit as to how much of a budget traveler I'm willing to be. That night we had a very nice, relatively inexpensive Indian dinner.

We visited Maoz Falafel several times. Here you get a pita, several falafel balls, free selections from the salad bar, and a choice of sauces, for less than 4 Euros. You can pay a bit more and get some fries and mayonnaise. My daughter did eventually agree one could get too much Maoz Falafel, though (I had come to that conclusion sooner). Another time we went to an Italian restaurant and had a nice reasonably-priced meal.

I visited Anne Frank House twice, once alone and once with my daughter. The impact is hard to describe.

We're happy to admit we went to the Hard Rock Cafe. Afterwards, my daughter and I watched the outdoor chess games being played with large-size pieces on a chessboard on the ground by the Max Euwe chess club members. We're chess fans and this was fun (although she wanted to stay for what seemed like an infinite amount of time!).

More about the art next post.
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 06:12 PM
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Hello WillTravel, your trip is what family memories are made of!! You sound like a great mother, you let your daughter "be herself" and it sure sounds like you two enjoy each others company. Thanks for sharing your trip..it is an enjoyable read.
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 08:17 PM
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I'm thinking the same thing as LoveItaly - that you are my idea of a good mother, being comfortable with her daughter being herself. I think you show respect for your daughter, which, if my experience with my own kids is any indicator, really pays dividends in the end - and even in the interim, as they can show you a cracin' good time.
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 08:53 PM
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WillTravel, I'd wondered how your trip went, as we were both here asking questions in the spring-summer. That's great that you two enjoyed the trip, and each other's company, so much. I've often traveled with my daughter--most recently, this summer in Paris, Rome, London-- and we had the best time ever (though we say that with each trip). Alas, she's almost 19, and we have one last big trip planned before she "leaves the next." So ENJOY these wonderful times!!
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 10:57 PM
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Sounds great. Just checking in to point out that Fodor's has picked this thread for their list on the main page.
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Old Nov 9th, 2005, 02:23 AM
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Don't leave us hanging! We want more!

I'm betting your daughter felt comfortable in her get up in London....
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Old Nov 9th, 2005, 12:53 PM
  #32  
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My daughter is really fun to travel with. She makes friends everywhere she goes, and has no inhibitions about talking to people. She's almost always in a good mood. Her only drawbacks, if you can call them that, is that she really enjoys shopping and much prefers taxis to public transport .

The Stedelijk has some impressive contemporary decor, and there are great views of Centraal Station and the harbour from the top floor, the 11th, I think. The SAIL festival was on at this time, so we saw lots of ships.

The art - well, I can't remember too much about it, but I enjoyed seeing it at the time. If I had to choose, my favorite art period might be about 1880-1930 (well, there's also the late medieval and early Renaissance, and I could go on, but contemporary is not my favorite period), and the Stedelijk focuses on contemporary stuff. My daughter really liked it.

The Boijmans van Beuningen is a pleasure to visit. I noticed that there were many handicapped people at this museum, and it's no doubt because it's so much more accessible than so many European museums that have been crammed into old buildings. Art was set up so that you had space to move around and breathe and get a good look at everything. This museum covers a wide range of periods. I enjoyed seeing the 1600-era works. One in particular looked rather surrealist (I'd have to check some notes to see which). The museum web site recommended taking the tram from the Rotterdam train station, although it's only a short walk. We did when going there. I was taking pictures from inside the tram, and the conductor told me I must stop. So I did. On the return, I asked a staff member if it was safe to walk back to the train station, which she thought a funny question, and we did, without incident. Going to and from Rotterdam, we saw some enjoyable Dutch countryside.

The Rijksmuseum has many rooms shut down as part of its renovation, but classics like the Nightwatch are still viewable. I always got the audiophone tour whenever it was available, and I found all of them helpful. You could get a good sense of Rembrandt's progression as an artist (not necessarily that older is better than younger, or vice versa, but how his style changed).

The Rembrandthuis is a restored house that Rembrandt lived there. One highlight was seeing a live demonstration of 17th-century style etching.

The Van Gogh museum is wonderful, and I wish I had taken more time there.

The Hermitage Amsterdam had an exhibition of Venetian paintings, which I really enjoyed seeing. The problem with all of the museums I have seen this year is that I start to confuse where I have seen one painting or another!

We also went to the Holland Experience, next to Rembrandthuis. This is a sort of 3-D IMAX experience. It was enjoyable enough, but not something I'd specially recommend. (Disneyland's Soaring Over California is the same sort of thing, but much better done.)

My daughter wanted to visit the Electric Ladyland museum of fluorescent art. When we went there and walked in, though, it looked like someone's untidy apartment, and no one was there. I'm still a bit puzzled by that. If you want to see it, I recommend emailing first. We enjoyed walking in the Jordaan area, though. My daughter visited a CD shop and asked the clerk to help her get a Dutch CD in the style she liked. The clerk said she personally didn't care for Dutch music, but my daughter did end up with one she liked.
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Old Nov 9th, 2005, 01:26 PM
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This is a great trip report. I love the way you are with your daughter. We have a 14 year son (and an 11 year old one) who we are taking to London in December. It is nice to hear that other kids are attached to their hoodies....and that you were comfortable to let her have some space of her own. I know my son will want some time in internet cafes to keep in touch with friends. He is very social and independent. He also likes some sleep and down time and loves Jimi Hendrix, Bob Marley, and Neil Young along with lots more. I'm eager to read about your London experience in particular.

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Old Nov 10th, 2005, 11:20 AM
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EasyJet from Amsterdam to London was fine.

Once we arrived in London, my daughter practically sighed with relief. She was so happy that everything was in English.

We took Thameslink to Kings Cross using the Kid for a Quid offer, so our total ticket price was 11 pounds for both of us. Then we took the tube to Russell Square. We saw an African man, dressed in African garb, questioned intently at immigration and later questioned intently when we were waiting for the Thameslink train. I have to admit I was on the lookout for potential terrorists too, but I didn't think a man in his late 50s, who was dressed so conspicuously, was the most likely suspect. I have mixed feelings about the profiling issue. I can't say I felt 100% comfortable on the tube, but most of the time I felt fine.

I had obtained the 3* Holiday Inn Bloomsbury on Priceline for $77 USD/night + taxes and fees. I bid in March or April, which was before the Thistle Marble Arch started showing up so cheaply on Priceline, so who knows, if I had waited maybe I would have gotten a cheaper deal. But we were very happy with the hotel and the location. My daughter observed the wine glass was real crystal. The French manager was funny and helpful. The room was large enough to walk around in, with snowy-white linens, and the bathroom was well-equipped and a good size. I think our room had been recently renovated and we did get a 4* experience, based on London standards. Tesco Express, a block from the hotel and right across from the tube station, is open 24 hours, which was very helpful when we wanted some juice or cheese or other snacks. I found an Italian deli on Coram Street which had reasonably priced paninis that I got for breakfast most mornings. There's also a Boots right there. I saw the bus stops, but as it turned out we didn't take any buses. My daughter did see a couple of people on the ground being arrested one night, but that happens in any city.
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Old Nov 10th, 2005, 07:55 PM
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Love the report, Willtravel! You are both a good planner and a great mom.
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Old Nov 11th, 2005, 11:32 AM
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WillTravel, you probably don't have to worry about not traveling with your daughter again after she "leaves the nest." My daughter and I started traveling together, by ourselves, when she was 13. She's 50 now, and we are still each other's favorite traveling companion. You just have to train them young!

This is a super report. We just stayed on Bloomsbury Street for the first time last month, and I'm looking forward to hearing more about the London portion of your trip. Did she discover Top Shop? I bought my great-niece a shirt in there, and I mean to write her a note to the effect that I braved 9,000 teenagers and listened to horrible music in order to get it.
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Old Nov 13th, 2005, 07:15 PM
  #37  
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WT - I've been waiting for months for your trip report! Finally!

Thanks for posting. Looking forward to more.
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Old Nov 13th, 2005, 07:16 PM
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Carolyn, I didn't know about Top Shop. I'll show the web site to my daughter and see what she thinks. I fear that if it has horrible music she would like it.

In London, we started our first morning there with a London walk, "The Beatles Magical Mystery Tour". My daughter was thrilled with all of the Beatles information she got from our black-leathered trés-chic tour guide, and doubly thrilled when we ended up at the famous zebra crossing in St. Johns Wood. She got her pictures there, and wrote (as permitted and encouraged, according to the tour guide) an inscription on the wall outside Abbey Road Studios. They simply repaint the wall every few months.

Afterwards, we headed to Leicester Square to see if we could score any bargains for a matinee. No luck there at the prices we wanted to pay, but I had purchased Time Out, and we saw there were 5-pound tickets available for a 3 PM showing of Tom, Dick, and Harry. The theatre was on St. Martin's Lane, and it was about 2:40. I wanted to figure it out with our map, but my daughter prefers the direct method and asked someone. This gentleman kindly directed us how to get around a particular building and end up there, so we did, much quicker than we would have with my map. We went up to the box office, and got our 5-pound tickets in the very first row. These are supposed to be obstructed-view seats, but we did not feel like we were missing anything at all, particularly being so close. This is not a serious drama, to say the least, but a somewhat macabre farce. The acting was very good, the story was silly, but it was quite enjoyable.

We had dinner at an Italian restaurant somewhere in the vicinity. The food was fine, although of course more expensive than comparable meals in other cities. I think we managed to come in at about 8 pounds per person, though.

I had arranged tickets for Ceremony of the Keys. Someone tried to get in without a ticket, but of course was turned away. The man (a Beefeater, I think, but at any rate one of the military staff who lives at the Tower of London) explaining the procedure was very firm, but very funny, as he explained how we must comport ourselves for the next 30 minutes or so. He provided information about the history of the tower, and various interesting historical events. This event had been going on for approximately 700 years, and I don't think any nights have been skipped.

My daughter said, though, that she found it infinitely more thrilling to visit the zebra crossing than to see the Ceremony of the Keys. But I expect her perspective might differ with age, but then again maybe not.
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Old Nov 13th, 2005, 07:19 PM
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Hi WillTravel, your daughter sounds like a lot of fun!!!
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Old Nov 13th, 2005, 07:26 PM
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yk, I've just started reading your Venice report. I am really looking forward to it.

Other things we saw in London:
Camden Market (4 visits). Yes, we visited this every single morning other than the first. After going through it briefly with my daughter, we were both confident that we could separate and manage to meet up at the tube station (or rather at the bank across the street) at a specified time and that's what we did. My daughter absolutely loved this place, and as anyone who knows Camden can guess, her sartorial choices were entirely suitable. She enjoyed chatting with the vendors, and she beat them down on their prices several times. One time she wanted a particular item, but she pointed out her mother had only given her 10 pounds for the day. She got it at half-price. Another time the vendor told her she could pay with US money because he was going to Mexico. The item was 20 pounds and the next day she came back with US$20. He said that he hadn't meant he would agree to that, but that's what she had so he took it. She got various T-shirts, jewelry, and items related to the Belle & Sebastian band (probably her very favorite band at the moment). Once I visited the British Library while she was at Camden, another time I visited the public library near Mornington Crescent. Another time I took a walk down to Regents Park and another time I explored the market area.

Flanneruk had posted about this very cheap Indian restaurant, Indian Vegetarian Bhel Poori House, at 92 Chapel Market, near the Angel Tube. We went there for an early dinner on our next-to-last day and somewhat regretted we hadn't gone sooner. You get an all-you-can-eat vegan Indian buffet for 2.95 pounds all-in. I think it's a vegetarian proselytizing centre of sorts, given the slogans on the wall. Was it the best Indian food I've ever eaten? No, but quantity makes up for a lot sometimes, and the quality was certainly acceptable.
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