Will Walk for Food: Winter Wandering in Switzerland
Feb 16th, 2019, 12:01 AM
#41
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Love the photos, Mel, as always! That was quite an expensive barley soup plus wine at Bistro Kaufmannfrauen - holy cow! A shame it wasn't even good.
A word on the Nusstorte - I saw on the photo you had "Bündner" Nusstorte in Flims. Of course this is not "Engadiner" Nusstorte. The latter is the original, so to speak. And it is much better. I had "Bündner" Nusstorte in Chur - by far not as good as "Engadiner" Nusstorte. That is bakery Cantieni next to the COOP in Scuol, right? They have their bakery in Ftan, shops in Scuol and Ardez. Their Nusstorte is one of my favourites, too.
A word on the Nusstorte - I saw on the photo you had "Bündner" Nusstorte in Flims. Of course this is not "Engadiner" Nusstorte. The latter is the original, so to speak. And it is much better. I had "Bündner" Nusstorte in Chur - by far not as good as "Engadiner" Nusstorte. That is bakery Cantieni next to the COOP in Scuol, right? They have their bakery in Ftan, shops in Scuol and Ardez. Their Nusstorte is one of my favourites, too.
Feb 16th, 2019, 01:08 AM
#42
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Adelaidean (and others) - bad news from the Rhaetian Railways:
https://www.rhb.ch/en/news-events/sc...unterengadin-1
https://www.rhb.ch/en/news-events/sc...unterengadin-1
Feb 16th, 2019, 05:22 AM
#43
Ingo -
Surprised to hear about the railway. But at least there is a bus! Sometimes the bus routes are even prettier, so maybe not as bad as it sounds (?)
Interesting about the Nusstorte - I had no idea it could vary so much in such a relatively small area. In future I shall save my Nusstorte calories for Scuol, Ftan and Ardez.
That is bakery Cantieni next to the COOP in Scuol, right?
Yes, that's the one. Guess we'll have to go back now just to eat Nusstorte (and my favorite barley soup of all time at Hotel Belleval). Take note Adelaidean.
Surprised to hear about the railway. But at least there is a bus! Sometimes the bus routes are even prettier, so maybe not as bad as it sounds (?)
Interesting about the Nusstorte - I had no idea it could vary so much in such a relatively small area. In future I shall save my Nusstorte calories for Scuol, Ftan and Ardez.
That is bakery Cantieni next to the COOP in Scuol, right?
Yes, that's the one. Guess we'll have to go back now just to eat Nusstorte (and my favorite barley soup of all time at Hotel Belleval). Take note Adelaidean.
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 16th, 2019 at 05:26 AM.
Feb 16th, 2019, 06:40 PM
#44
Mel, already in my notes! Must have got that from your previous trip report.
Ingo, thank you. We will be taking the Glacier Express when we travel Thun to Scuol route, so good to know this beforehand or I’d have been stressing about unexpected changes on what will be a long travel day. No doubt the Swiss will have seamless travel alternatives.
Ingo, thank you. We will be taking the Glacier Express when we travel Thun to Scuol route, so good to know this beforehand or I’d have been stressing about unexpected changes on what will be a long travel day. No doubt the Swiss will have seamless travel alternatives.
Feb 17th, 2019, 07:02 AM
#45
Flims to Zuoz – Day 7 –
A cold rain began to fall as we made one last climb up to the Flims Dorf bus stop, luggage in tow, the grit providing great traction, but hell on suitcase wheels.
We were off to the Upper Engadine - bus to Chur, train to Sagliains, train to Zuoz (28.10 CHF each, half fare). We’d walked 43 miles in six days; I was looking forward to a day of resting my bones on Swiss transport.
After switching from bus to train in Chur, we settled in with adult beverages and watched the landscape roll by. We chugged through the Vereina Tunnel, the longest on the Swiss Rhaetian Railway, 19.1 kilometers of darkness.
RhB-Vereina - History
Some two and a half hours after leaving Flims we pulled into the winter wonderland of Zuoz, got our bearings, consulted our map, donned our Yak Trax and tromped through the heavy wet falling snow in search of our apartment.
We walked down and through an underpass that led to the opposite side of the tracks, eventually finding two deserted looking buildings at the top of a hill above the street. Naturally we went to the wrong one, dragging our luggage through deep snow futilely searching for an entrance.
Fortunately, the woman manning the desk in the apartment building next door saw us fumbling in the snow, came out, waved to us and directed our sopping wet selves to a side door which led through the parking garage and to an elevator.
Evidently we were the only guests expected; she knew who we were and led us up to our apartment. We were home.
Home - Hotel Allegra Zuoz
Nice place this. Spacious, spotless, comfortable, well equipped and warm. And incredibly quiet. We pretty much had the whole building to ourselves, yet another pre-season perk.
I’d booked the apartment through Interhome, choosing a large unit, (77 m2); we do like our space (it wasn’t this exact unit, but almost identical).
https://www.interhome.com/switzerlan...a-ch7524.12.2/
The cost of the apartment for six nights came to about 524 Euro, all in (384 Euro paid up front, cleaning, linens and local tax paid onsite in Swiss Francs (158 CHF), a deal by Swiss standards (about $100 USD per night) and yet another reason we travel off season. Interhome had advised that there would also be a 300 CHF breakage deposit required in cash upon arrival, but the key holder waived the fee; we must look harmless.
Hungry, we rugged up and climbed the rather treacherous hill up to the village, sleepy on this Sunday evening. We settled into the only open restaurant we could find, Pizzeria Walther, where we shared a Caprese Salad, a pizza and 50 cl of local Pinot Noir (not wonderful, but the proprietor was friendly and it was OPEN, 59 CHF).
https://www.engadin.stmoritz.ch/wint...urant-walther/
To be continued…
A cold rain began to fall as we made one last climb up to the Flims Dorf bus stop, luggage in tow, the grit providing great traction, but hell on suitcase wheels.
We were off to the Upper Engadine - bus to Chur, train to Sagliains, train to Zuoz (28.10 CHF each, half fare). We’d walked 43 miles in six days; I was looking forward to a day of resting my bones on Swiss transport.
After switching from bus to train in Chur, we settled in with adult beverages and watched the landscape roll by. We chugged through the Vereina Tunnel, the longest on the Swiss Rhaetian Railway, 19.1 kilometers of darkness.
RhB-Vereina - History
Some two and a half hours after leaving Flims we pulled into the winter wonderland of Zuoz, got our bearings, consulted our map, donned our Yak Trax and tromped through the heavy wet falling snow in search of our apartment.
We walked down and through an underpass that led to the opposite side of the tracks, eventually finding two deserted looking buildings at the top of a hill above the street. Naturally we went to the wrong one, dragging our luggage through deep snow futilely searching for an entrance.
Fortunately, the woman manning the desk in the apartment building next door saw us fumbling in the snow, came out, waved to us and directed our sopping wet selves to a side door which led through the parking garage and to an elevator.
Evidently we were the only guests expected; she knew who we were and led us up to our apartment. We were home.
Home - Hotel Allegra Zuoz
Nice place this. Spacious, spotless, comfortable, well equipped and warm. And incredibly quiet. We pretty much had the whole building to ourselves, yet another pre-season perk.
I’d booked the apartment through Interhome, choosing a large unit, (77 m2); we do like our space (it wasn’t this exact unit, but almost identical).
https://www.interhome.com/switzerlan...a-ch7524.12.2/
The cost of the apartment for six nights came to about 524 Euro, all in (384 Euro paid up front, cleaning, linens and local tax paid onsite in Swiss Francs (158 CHF), a deal by Swiss standards (about $100 USD per night) and yet another reason we travel off season. Interhome had advised that there would also be a 300 CHF breakage deposit required in cash upon arrival, but the key holder waived the fee; we must look harmless.
Hungry, we rugged up and climbed the rather treacherous hill up to the village, sleepy on this Sunday evening. We settled into the only open restaurant we could find, Pizzeria Walther, where we shared a Caprese Salad, a pizza and 50 cl of local Pinot Noir (not wonderful, but the proprietor was friendly and it was OPEN, 59 CHF).
https://www.engadin.stmoritz.ch/wint...urant-walther/
To be continued…
Feb 17th, 2019, 11:15 PM
#46
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Thank you for writing - great to hear about your travels. Just wondering, would life as a walker be more challenging without your Yak Trax? I bet they cause pauses at airport security!
I'm looking forward to hearing what you thought of Austria.
I'm looking forward to hearing what you thought of Austria.
Feb 18th, 2019, 05:10 AM
#47
dreamon -
Winter walking would definitely be more challenging without our Yak Trax - we use them quite a lot here in CO too - they're life savers. The older we get, the more it hurts to fall, and the easier we break. We both have 2-3 pairs (note I use the term Yak Trax generically) with varying levels of traction.
They've caused no issues at airport security whatsoever. They're packed in our checked luggage.
We do have to replace the lighter weight ones once a year though, as we tend to wear them out.
Winter walking would definitely be more challenging without our Yak Trax - we use them quite a lot here in CO too - they're life savers. The older we get, the more it hurts to fall, and the easier we break. We both have 2-3 pairs (note I use the term Yak Trax generically) with varying levels of traction.
They've caused no issues at airport security whatsoever. They're packed in our checked luggage.
We do have to replace the lighter weight ones once a year though, as we tend to wear them out.
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 18th, 2019 at 05:12 AM.
Feb 18th, 2019, 09:21 AM
#49
Ingo -
It certainly was nice - plenty of space and immaculately maintained. I had trouble finding apartments in Zuoz - meaning there wasn't a lot to choose from - most were at Allegra.
They have smaller units too, but for longer stays we like our space, so went for the big one.
It certainly was nice - plenty of space and immaculately maintained. I had trouble finding apartments in Zuoz - meaning there wasn't a lot to choose from - most were at Allegra.
They have smaller units too, but for longer stays we like our space, so went for the big one.
Feb 18th, 2019, 10:48 AM
#50
Zuoz – Day 8
Snowplows woke us up at 5 am. After a trip up to the Coop to gather provisions and a quick planning session, we decided to walk from Zuoz to Cinos-chel for… you guessed it…lunch! Fodorite Ingo had mentioned that Hotel Veduta would be open, and that Capuns were on the menu. That’s all I needed to hear.
Home | Hotel Veduta
But first, we consulted with the Information Office where we learned that the trek might be easier said than done, especially with six inches of freshly fallen (and ungroomed) snow.
True that. We located what we thought was the trail, dodging snow removal equipment and huge piles of the white stuff. We commenced to clomp through deep crusty snow that had been rained on, our steps sounding a lot like Halloumi on teeth. I managed to lose both of my Yak Trax and had to backtrack some distance to find them. As we trudged along, the fog slowly began to lift, revealing promising views through an eerie blue light.
The path we were on abruptly ended, we crossed the road – and lo’ and behold found a perfectly groomed walking trail! Easy…at first.
We veered right, following the signs up a snow packed road, then up and through a muddy construction zone – say what? On the upside, we stumbled upon a toitoi portable toilet - and I desperately needed one. The path disappeared, there were no more signs; I was convinced we were hopelessly lost.
We could either backtrack through the mess or forge on, so we forged, eventually locating a bergweg to Chantarella and its lovely church, and beyond that a cleared path to Cinos-chel, which finally led us to Hotel Veduta – thank goddess.
Our lunch was hard earned. Capuns for me, Pizzoccheri (a first) for Bill (ribbon pasta made from buckwheat flour with potatoes and a decadent cream sauce), wine for both, relaxing and delicious (75 CHF). I was tempted to try their Nusstorte (and regret not doing so), but there was just no more room.
We returned to Zuoz via train (2.80 CHF each, half fare); the skies now a brilliant blue. We set about exploring the very pretty historic village and its patrician houses.
https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/zuoz.html
Our wandering led us up to the Lyceum Alpinum, a Swiss international boarding school, beautifully situated above the village with stunning views (and annual tuition of 73,600-84,200 CHF, yowsa!)
https://www.lyceum-alpinum.ch/en/
We’d logged some eight miles; it was time for alfresco drinks on our ice cold patio. Beauty.
To be continued...
Snowplows woke us up at 5 am. After a trip up to the Coop to gather provisions and a quick planning session, we decided to walk from Zuoz to Cinos-chel for… you guessed it…lunch! Fodorite Ingo had mentioned that Hotel Veduta would be open, and that Capuns were on the menu. That’s all I needed to hear.
Home | Hotel Veduta
But first, we consulted with the Information Office where we learned that the trek might be easier said than done, especially with six inches of freshly fallen (and ungroomed) snow.
True that. We located what we thought was the trail, dodging snow removal equipment and huge piles of the white stuff. We commenced to clomp through deep crusty snow that had been rained on, our steps sounding a lot like Halloumi on teeth. I managed to lose both of my Yak Trax and had to backtrack some distance to find them. As we trudged along, the fog slowly began to lift, revealing promising views through an eerie blue light.
The path we were on abruptly ended, we crossed the road – and lo’ and behold found a perfectly groomed walking trail! Easy…at first.
We veered right, following the signs up a snow packed road, then up and through a muddy construction zone – say what? On the upside, we stumbled upon a toitoi portable toilet - and I desperately needed one. The path disappeared, there were no more signs; I was convinced we were hopelessly lost.
We could either backtrack through the mess or forge on, so we forged, eventually locating a bergweg to Chantarella and its lovely church, and beyond that a cleared path to Cinos-chel, which finally led us to Hotel Veduta – thank goddess.
Our lunch was hard earned. Capuns for me, Pizzoccheri (a first) for Bill (ribbon pasta made from buckwheat flour with potatoes and a decadent cream sauce), wine for both, relaxing and delicious (75 CHF). I was tempted to try their Nusstorte (and regret not doing so), but there was just no more room.
We returned to Zuoz via train (2.80 CHF each, half fare); the skies now a brilliant blue. We set about exploring the very pretty historic village and its patrician houses.
https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/zuoz.html
Our wandering led us up to the Lyceum Alpinum, a Swiss international boarding school, beautifully situated above the village with stunning views (and annual tuition of 73,600-84,200 CHF, yowsa!)
https://www.lyceum-alpinum.ch/en/
We’d logged some eight miles; it was time for alfresco drinks on our ice cold patio. Beauty.
To be continued...
Feb 18th, 2019, 09:03 PM
#53
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Impressive walking and stamina Mel.
Really enjoying following along and making notes for perhaps a warmer weather visit.
Will look out for yak trax here as we do like a winter tour even if we cannot walk quite the way you do but they might help as we get braver.
Wow that school is expensive and we are used to private schools here.
I also notice that the girls' fees are higher than the boys: something to ponder.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Really enjoying following along and making notes for perhaps a warmer weather visit.
Will look out for yak trax here as we do like a winter tour even if we cannot walk quite the way you do but they might help as we get braver.
Wow that school is expensive and we are used to private schools here.
I also notice that the girls' fees are higher than the boys: something to ponder.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Feb 19th, 2019, 04:50 AM
#54
I noticed that too love_travel_Aus. Upon digging deeper it seems they have different lodging options so I thought it might have something to do with that.
I remember looking for wool socks and sock liners one year in Australia in preparation for a winter trip to Europe. It was like looking for a needle in a haystack! And packing for a winter trip in the dead of an OZ summer was difficult to even think about because it was so hot.
We've upped our game since we moved back to CO - we own more (and better) winter clothing now. Much easier to find in these here parts!
I remember looking for wool socks and sock liners one year in Australia in preparation for a winter trip to Europe. It was like looking for a needle in a haystack! And packing for a winter trip in the dead of an OZ summer was difficult to even think about because it was so hot.
We've upped our game since we moved back to CO - we own more (and better) winter clothing now. Much easier to find in these here parts!
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 19th, 2019 at 05:23 AM.
Feb 19th, 2019, 06:38 AM
#55
Great report and photos mel, thanks. Has me thinking how much I'll enjoy my time in Switzerland this summer!
I like the photos of little vignettes that you captured, along with the grand vistas. I thought the "Rocky ... Loves Me" marquee was some pop culture thing I was unaware of, and sure enough searching on that took me to some rather unexpected song lyrics.
You've introduced some cuisine I've never heard of. I'll be on a guided hiking trip but I know this company and guides succeed in getting us to try lots of local dishes. My trip is in Valais, so perhaps some regional differences there.
By the way, I've found these STABILicers to be far, far superior to YakTrax in virtually all mixed winter trail conditions here in Colorado winter foothills. The only negative is this model is heavier but they do make lighter weight versions. I pitched my YakTrax after finding these.
I like the photos of little vignettes that you captured, along with the grand vistas. I thought the "Rocky ... Loves Me" marquee was some pop culture thing I was unaware of, and sure enough searching on that took me to some rather unexpected song lyrics.
You've introduced some cuisine I've never heard of. I'll be on a guided hiking trip but I know this company and guides succeed in getting us to try lots of local dishes. My trip is in Valais, so perhaps some regional differences there.
By the way, I've found these STABILicers to be far, far superior to YakTrax in virtually all mixed winter trail conditions here in Colorado winter foothills. The only negative is this model is heavier but they do make lighter weight versions. I pitched my YakTrax after finding these.
Feb 19th, 2019, 10:11 AM
#56
Hi Nelson -
I have no doubt you'll have a wonderful time. When I think of summer hiking in Switzerland I can't help but remember some of our post hike treats:
Thanks for the Stablilicers link - those look like they'll definitely stay on, which is my biggest complaint about our lighter ones.
I have no doubt you'll have a wonderful time. When I think of summer hiking in Switzerland I can't help but remember some of our post hike treats:
Thanks for the Stablilicers link - those look like they'll definitely stay on, which is my biggest complaint about our lighter ones.
Feb 21st, 2019, 09:01 AM
#57
Zuoz – Day 9
More snow!
Today’s plan was to explore the valley of Val Roseg, situated on the north side of the Bernina Range, surrounded by the highest mountains of Graubünden and Eastern Switzerland. What could possibly go wrong?
https://www.pontresina.ch/en/summer/...eg-pontresina/
We caught a train to Pontresina (12 CHF each return, half fare), located the trail - actually a snow packed road as the winter wanderweg wasn’t yet groomed - yakked up, and were off.
We knew going in that there would be no food at the end of this walk, as Hotel Restaurant Roseg Gletscher, home to a dessert buffet (!) was not yet open for the season. Next time.
https://www.roseg-gletscher.ch/en/
The day was gloomy, the wind mean, the mountain views elusive. We walked… and walked…and walked, twice passed by horse drawn carriages, tempted to stick out our thumbs. It was a slog, the snow difficult to walk in, slushy and uneven with horse hoof divots. While I have no doubt that the views are spectacular on a clear day, today was not that day.
After some two hours we bailed, not knowing how much further the trail went, not sure if we’d actually be able to see anything at the end and more tired than curious. Bill called it ‘the walk that wouldn’t end’.
It was past the witching hour of 2 pm when we got back to Pontresina; there’d be no lunch for us. We settled for a glass of wine at the Hotel Station bar, surprised to find it smoky, given the stringent Swiss smoking laws (evidently small bars are exempt).
Back in Zuoz, too knackered from our eight mile trek to tackle the hills up to the village for dinner, we pick up snacks at the Coop and called it a day.
To be continued...
More snow!
Today’s plan was to explore the valley of Val Roseg, situated on the north side of the Bernina Range, surrounded by the highest mountains of Graubünden and Eastern Switzerland. What could possibly go wrong?
https://www.pontresina.ch/en/summer/...eg-pontresina/
We caught a train to Pontresina (12 CHF each return, half fare), located the trail - actually a snow packed road as the winter wanderweg wasn’t yet groomed - yakked up, and were off.
We knew going in that there would be no food at the end of this walk, as Hotel Restaurant Roseg Gletscher, home to a dessert buffet (!) was not yet open for the season. Next time.
https://www.roseg-gletscher.ch/en/
The day was gloomy, the wind mean, the mountain views elusive. We walked… and walked…and walked, twice passed by horse drawn carriages, tempted to stick out our thumbs. It was a slog, the snow difficult to walk in, slushy and uneven with horse hoof divots. While I have no doubt that the views are spectacular on a clear day, today was not that day.
After some two hours we bailed, not knowing how much further the trail went, not sure if we’d actually be able to see anything at the end and more tired than curious. Bill called it ‘the walk that wouldn’t end’.
It was past the witching hour of 2 pm when we got back to Pontresina; there’d be no lunch for us. We settled for a glass of wine at the Hotel Station bar, surprised to find it smoky, given the stringent Swiss smoking laws (evidently small bars are exempt).
Back in Zuoz, too knackered from our eight mile trek to tackle the hills up to the village for dinner, we pick up snacks at the Coop and called it a day.
To be continued...
Feb 21st, 2019, 11:41 AM
#58
The photos do make it look magical, though
Now am educated on yak trax, et al, my goodness, never even thought about winter gear like that.
“..past the witching hour of 2pm...” that scenario makes my partner very cranky, I try to avoid those situations
Now am educated on yak trax, et al, my goodness, never even thought about winter gear like that.
“..past the witching hour of 2pm...” that scenario makes my partner very cranky, I try to avoid those situations
Feb 21st, 2019, 12:20 PM
#60
Zuoz – Day 10
Our legs needed a break, which is how we ended up spending some serious butt time on the Bernina Express, traveling from Zuoz to Tirano, Italy via Pontresina.
Contrary to popular belief, the Bernina Express route can be traveled without reservations and seat assignments. One just need purchase a ticket on a regional train. The primary difference is the windows – the official BEX trains (with, I believe, only one daily departure in winter) have panoramic windows and assigned seating. The regional trains do not.
https://www.rhb.ch/en/panoramic-trains/bernina-express
Having said that, the windows on our Regio train were expansive, and more than sufficient for us.
If there’s one thing that we’ve learned in our many visits to this spectacular country, it’s that off season is our season – we had a whole carriage entirely to ourselves – complete with commentary (35 CHF each return, half fare).
The Bernina Express is the highest rail crossing in Europe; at 2,253 meters above sea level, Ospizio Bernina is both the highest station and highest point on the Bernina Railway, in addition to being the highest point on the entire Rhaetian Railway network.
We chugged along, surrounded by imposing glaciers, snow covered peaks and ice covered lakes, the light flat, the sky more white than blue.
As we made our descent into Tirano, the landscape changed dramatically, the skies now blue, the lakes ice-free, the hills green and rolling.
Two and a half hours after leaving Zuoz, me feeling a bit train sick, we were wandering the streets of balmy Tirano, ogling the bakery windows.
We explored a bit, searched for a lunch venue, and then settled in at a table at Ristorante Sale e Pepe. Its location so near the train station, coupled with the tattiest menus I’d ever seen, set off my alarm bells. But the tables were full of local workers…surely this was a good sign?
And so it was. Bill chose the Pizzocheri Casalinghi (it didn’t look very appetizing, but he really liked it), I played it safe with pizza. Throw in copious amounts of a lovely local red and a shared Tiramisu and we were fat and happy (48 Euro, a deal by Swiss standards).
After some post lunch wandering, we were back on the train, the conductor joking that he’d have to charge us extra for having our own carriage.
At Campolologno two Border Control/Customs agents boarded, looked us up and down and moved on to the next carriage. Not sure what they were looking for (butter?) but evidently we passed muster.
To be continued…
Our legs needed a break, which is how we ended up spending some serious butt time on the Bernina Express, traveling from Zuoz to Tirano, Italy via Pontresina.
Contrary to popular belief, the Bernina Express route can be traveled without reservations and seat assignments. One just need purchase a ticket on a regional train. The primary difference is the windows – the official BEX trains (with, I believe, only one daily departure in winter) have panoramic windows and assigned seating. The regional trains do not.
https://www.rhb.ch/en/panoramic-trains/bernina-express
Having said that, the windows on our Regio train were expansive, and more than sufficient for us.
If there’s one thing that we’ve learned in our many visits to this spectacular country, it’s that off season is our season – we had a whole carriage entirely to ourselves – complete with commentary (35 CHF each return, half fare).
The Bernina Express is the highest rail crossing in Europe; at 2,253 meters above sea level, Ospizio Bernina is both the highest station and highest point on the Bernina Railway, in addition to being the highest point on the entire Rhaetian Railway network.
We chugged along, surrounded by imposing glaciers, snow covered peaks and ice covered lakes, the light flat, the sky more white than blue.
As we made our descent into Tirano, the landscape changed dramatically, the skies now blue, the lakes ice-free, the hills green and rolling.
Two and a half hours after leaving Zuoz, me feeling a bit train sick, we were wandering the streets of balmy Tirano, ogling the bakery windows.
We explored a bit, searched for a lunch venue, and then settled in at a table at Ristorante Sale e Pepe. Its location so near the train station, coupled with the tattiest menus I’d ever seen, set off my alarm bells. But the tables were full of local workers…surely this was a good sign?
And so it was. Bill chose the Pizzocheri Casalinghi (it didn’t look very appetizing, but he really liked it), I played it safe with pizza. Throw in copious amounts of a lovely local red and a shared Tiramisu and we were fat and happy (48 Euro, a deal by Swiss standards).
After some post lunch wandering, we were back on the train, the conductor joking that he’d have to charge us extra for having our own carriage.
At Campolologno two Border Control/Customs agents boarded, looked us up and down and moved on to the next carriage. Not sure what they were looking for (butter?) but evidently we passed muster.
To be continued…
