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WHY ROMANIA???

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Old Nov 15th, 2007, 08:42 AM
  #61  
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checked out after our in room breakfast....245 ron for two nites...

headed back to brasov which took about 1.5 hours....

soon we were climbing and back in mountain country....soon we were able to see the famous dual peaks above sinaia, our stop for the next two nite....snow on the mountain tops....

in one pass we stopped and had lunch at a nice ski hotel...we were the only people eating....great view from our table of the mountains...Rozmarin hotel was our lunch stop...

we arrived in sinaia about mid-afternoon....this is the site of the most visited site in romania: Peles Castle...

i had found a new hotel on the internet called Bastion Hotel...it is located on the grounds of the castle and is in fact the former stables....its charming and i would urge you to stay there...

we wandered into the town in the late afternoon....typical ski town...we found it quite boring but the sights within it were not we would learn the next day...

finally posted some postcards to home...

off the main road and going up the hillside we encountered many lovely older huge homes....obviously this area has seen wealth for many years....as the seat of the summer residence of royality many courtiers had built homes there...this continues today as the newly wealthy with interests in skiing and the outdoors are building chalets there today...

at the top of the road above town we came across the Taverna Restaurant, which was also listed in our guidebooks....at 4PM the place was full, so we decided we would return there for dinner later as this was a good omen....full name: Taverna Sarbului....

we returned to the hotel....

about the hotel: in the public areas their theme color is green, sort of a dartmouth green...with cream overtones...it is used throughout the hotel...the hotel was built and is owned by an american romanian who lives in chicago...

there is a large meeting room on one side of the lobby and on the other side is a mirror room which is the lovely dining room....both have horse themes....you can see how there were stalls in both of these rooms...we loved it...

our room was a small double, which was very adequate for us...there was a nice new bathroom as well...the hotel is a series of small buildings around a central courtyard where there is an outside terrace and the bar faces out onto this terrace...

the castle is a 5 minute walk up the drive...its a lovely wooded area with a stream running through it...

the furniture is of an old style...we thought it might have even been some of the servant's furniture....but it has all been sanded and repainted with a new mircle smooth paint, making it lovely and comfortable....the beds were exceptional...

this is probably the best place we stayed in romania...its a must stay if in this area...

that morning as we were packing up our car in Sign. we had met two CA women who were wandering around the town...we had a nice conversation...they were doing a tour very much like our own, but they had a car and driver....we told them where we were staying in sanaia as they were headed there as well....

at 6PM our phone rang and it was them....what were we doing for dinner?? we said we had picked a place and would they like to join us...sure....their driver was only for daylight hours, so i said i would pick them up about 7...they were staying at the palace hotel in town....

so up to the Taverna we went...there were less people there at 7:15 so we got a table right away...we had a nice dinner sampling many things of romanian fare....204 ron for the 4 of us...

after dinner we decided to show each other our hotels...they were quite imressed with ours....theirs was tired elegance....

btw, they hated their driver who was sort of rude and told them little about what they were seeing...this reaffirmed to me that i had made a good decision to do it alone...i know he is only one of many but .....

off to bed
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Old Nov 15th, 2007, 09:20 AM
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halloween and we were in the land of dracular....not a note of anything there....it was just like any other day....odd....

down to the dining room for our included breakfast....bingo...our second very nice waiter in two weeks...a real nice young guy...he even brought me 'unt'.....

as the castle did not open until 11 we decided to visit the Eunesco summer home across the river first....it did not open till 10 but the caretaker let us in early...what a fantastic place...far nicer and perfectly preserved, unlike his bucharesti place....

the feel of the home is sort of spanish/moorish....its white and fits into its site well...

the origninal furnishings remain in tack and they are lovely indeed, especially the fabulous wooden items...never have i seen such grain in woods...his pianos are still there....its an attractive place over all....upstairs are the bedrooms and his work spaces, where he gave piano lessons....the queen was a patron....

back to the hotel....we walked up the drive to peles...not only is peles there but also pelisor, a palace built for the son and daughter in law of the king...the queen did not like the DIL so she did some weird things in the pelisor palace decorating, but we loved it....very art deco....

we toured pelisor first....we really liked it especially the tiffany and lalique items....there is a gold room in there that almost feels like outer space...

because these two are national treasurers you are required to wear cloth footies over your shoes...there are tons of guards also who watch you like hawks...

9 ron for entrance to pelisor...photo passes are available but they are very expensive...i declined...you visit three floors...they offer a guided tour but because there were not enough english people the lazy romanian staff told us just to walk through on our own...i wanted to ask for a discount...

from there we walked down the hill a bit to peles...lots of security we noticed....later we found out that the romanian president was expected for a photo shoot....

the grounds are nice but not elaborate....not much $$ has been spent on keeping them in shape...woods are "dirty" and leaves are all around...grass is not mowed recently...lack of funding i gather...

we had to wait for an english tour for about 1/2 hour...fine...there is a seperate entrance for people requiring foreign language tours...12 ron is the entrance here..

our guide, a very personable man, greeted the 4 of us--another american couple had shown up...we began our comprehensive tour...we loved the guide who was funny and informative...it was like a private tour...

the place is amazing....the wood carving alone is over the top....the palace was started in 1875 and completed in the early 1900's....its amazing that it had running water, central vacuums,central heating--which is still in use today, air conditioning and full electric lighting....all very modern for its time...

we were overwhelmed by this place, and we have been to many palaces...

back to our hotel by 1:30....we had lunch in the dining room....fabulous and i mean fabulous caesar salads....the first really good green salads of this trip...

decided to drive towards Pucheni....we went up and over a mountain pass and decended into a gypsie village along a river bank...their main product was flat stones from the river bed...they were piled high outside each home....if you slowed down they came running out to try and sell you...

we also saw a pig being carved up in a back yard...

they would run after you hoping to get $$ if you took their picture...

we drove back to the hotel and encountered the presidential motorcade on our way....all cars were stopped....

we decided to have dinner in the hotel that nite...

same waiter....really nice guy...
chicken tarragon in cream sauce, rosemary pots, huge plate of grilled mixed variety wild mushrooms and onions, salad, and crepes and jam for dessert....delicious 84 Ron...we had had wine and beer in our room before had after our day of touring...

only hotel complaint...no church key in the rooms...
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Old Nov 15th, 2007, 09:33 AM
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awoke at 7AM by an unrequested wake up call....a new group had come into the hotel for a conference the nite before, so we gather someone had given the desk the wrong number...

this moring there was a buffet breakfast as we were no longer the only residents....the previous nite we felt like we were in our own hunting lodge for the nite with servants all around...

250 ron per nite for the hotel and breakfast...

this was to be our last day in romania as we had a flight at 3PM to London...

i had allowed for a leisurely drive back to the bucharest airport from sinaia...we had a date to meet the car guy at 1PM at the departures door....it was two lane highway all the way back to the airport...

stopped for an early lunch at a mcdonalds and hung out there for a bit as we were early....we made a trial run into the airport and left to buy gas....

we were still a bit early and made a pass through the airport and i dropped K off with the luggage...just as i was pulling away from the curb a car passed me and signaled for me to pull over...it was the car guy....he took one look at the gas gauge and said fine---how was the car and i relied fantastic....bye....and we were finished....i had pre-paid on the delivery of the car....i had driven 1900 miles...

the international building is quite small....we moved right through check-in at B/A, immigration and into the lounge area....

this concludes the romanian portion of my trip report....i will write a short report on the week in england next, but as we have been to england over 30 times it will be quite uninteresting i am sure...no sighseeing really...

i will conclude with a few final thoughts on romania at the very end...

thanks for reading....

bob and karen, age 63, retired
boston
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Old Nov 15th, 2007, 10:24 AM
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<i>it was the old dacias that looked so odd....communist era styling</i>

Actually it is an almost exact copy of the Renault 12. Dacia is a joint French-Romanian enterprise with most of the designs coming from Renault.
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Old Nov 15th, 2007, 01:11 PM
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Still enjoying the report, Bob and Karen. A few comments-

My parents first visited Romania in 1979 (and boy was the food and living standard then, under communism, GRIM) and their favorite memory was seeing a herd of cows arriving home to a village at the end of the day. They described it just as you do.

We had the same pastry as you did - got it at a Hungarian bakery in Bran. We've also had the same thing in the Christmas market in the Old Town Square in Prague. Delicious!

In Sighisoara we ate dinner at the Hotel Sighisoara and had quite good food. We loved the breakfast spread there. Actually, we enjoyed our stay at that hotel, and the desk staffer was quite friendly - he let us use the computer behind the desk and even gave us his chair.

Thanks for the info on restaurants and hotels. I'm filing away the info for my return to Romania. We had salad quite frequently, and found cucumbers and tomatoes ubiquitous.
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Old Nov 15th, 2007, 05:38 PM
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there were lots of salads, but they were mostly of the pickled type, like you find in germany so often....we wanted green lettuce...
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Old Nov 15th, 2007, 05:57 PM
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hi bob is the nme of thae delicious rum pastry savarin by any chance? lavici
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Old Nov 15th, 2007, 06:06 PM
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when i decided how we would get to romania i had an option for a stop over....since we were flying through london, i thought why not stop over for a few days...it ended up as a full week...

so upon our arrival at heathrow we picked up our rental car (through A/A partner)...we headed to our priceline hotel, the holiday inn in maidenhead....a great hotel btw...35 pounds on the UK priceline site...

we checked in and asked about some dinner....i wanted indian...two were offered...

we selected the one outside town on the Windsor Road....its in an old pub and is called Emperor of India (original name??)...it was full even though we arrived a bit late...after a few minutes wait we were seated...the service was fantastic, unlike most indian restaurants....it was a family affair and i think they really took pride in their product....the product was the best indian food we have ever had...even better than in india last year...

our menu was: chicken tikka, chicken korma, sag paneer, rice, nan and kulfi....we were stuffed...29 pounds...

how do you say perfect!!!

friday nov 2....

breakfast in our room from the gas station bakery next to the hotel...good...on the road heading north to worcester by 8:45....this was to be our pottery day...

oh i should put in one of my failings here....karen asked for the english maps upon our arrival....i said....ah....ah...they are on my floor in the computer room at home....good place for them...we purchased a new english atlas book at the gas station next door to the hotel...whew....

we drove through stratford and it looked so different since our last visit..

we drove through a really nice little town called Wraxton....we would like to return there some day...very british...beautiful buildings...thatched roofs and all...

we hit the royal worcester pottery works in downtown worcester first....we have been there many times in the past....always good buys, especially in the remainders and seconds area...our youngest daughter's china is royal worcester...

THE POUND HAS BEATEN US UP HOWEVER...

bought only a couple of things..

we had a nice lunch in their cafe...

back on the road by 12:15 heading further north to stoke on trent, our main pottery visit town...

first stop was the spode shop...this is a great place for bargain hunters...in fact they were having their periodic sale and even had a seperate showroom set up for this event...very reasonable stuff...nothing much we needed but we did manage a couple of soup plates (95p each--that's about $2.20)) for everyday use and another thing or two...

on to the wedgwood outlet...perfect...this is really where we needed to go...most of our china is wedgwood...

we bought some of our everyday china (sarah's garden) and several baby gifts...some odds and ends too and had enough for one box to be sent....30 pounds for air UPS...it arrived yesterday....they do a fantastic job packing...

we bought some gifts for english friends as well that we would be visiting...

we visited the royal doulton outlet next door but nothing hit our fancy...

it was getting dark so we headed back to the holiday inn i had reserved in stafford at junc 13 off the M-6... 36.75 pounds...

again a perfect place for us...very small room but for one nite it was just right....newish building...

we asked for dinner suggestions and we ended up just across the parking lot at Orange Square....what a unique place....it looked like a chain rest. but in fact is privately owned and has just this location... they offered thai, chinese, indian and british foods...plus mexican...perfect choice as we were very tired...service was not great but food was fine...

did some internet in the lobby for maybe 15 minutes--pay...

off to bed..

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Old Nov 15th, 2007, 06:57 PM
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up at a decent hour and out to the buffet breakfast...the usual HI/fairfield/hilton gardens breakfast...good enough for us this day...

they claim our room is paid for but i don't think i prepaid...i'm not going to argue...maybe the receipt is with the maps karen suggests..

we meander around on 2ndary roads enjoying the scenery....we stop for lunch at a lovely pub called fox and crane in nuneaton....good food and a charming atmosphere on the inside...

off we go heading to henley in arden...we had been invited by smeagol, from fodors, to spend the nite with them....we had met up in thailand last year after much correspondence...nikki and david (muffin, as we call him--don't ask) are a really nice and fun couple...we hit it off immediately in thailand so this came as a nice add on to our trip....we had really been looking forward to our visit with them...

we arrived at their lovely cottage by late afternoon....they have a 200 year old detached cottage on the main street in henley...its charming and is a work in progress, as are many of our houses...they are young so have plenty of time to get it up to their standards, which i will add are high...

we were royally greeted...we had tea...and tons of chatting...soon it was time to change for dinner....nikki had made a reservation for the 4 of us, plus two of their friends, at an upscale pub nearly across the road....Bluebell...

before heading over to the pub we enjoyed some hors and champagne...

the pub was crowded...it is really more of an upscale restaurant than a pub....thank god we had a res...we were seated at a large table immediately...

we had so much fun....so many laughs...craig and katie, the friends are just as easy to know as are nikki and david, so that made for a really nice evening...laugh and more laughs...

our dinner was excellent...the owner came by a few times to chat....at the end of the meal we had a longer chat with him....he too is a hoot...

after dinner we walked back to the cottage where we drank some more...champagne and home made slo-gin and had more laughs...

off to bed about 1....A PERFECT NITE!!!

nikki--thanks again...now you must come to boston!!! SOON!!!!

sunday morning came all too soon...

david made us his version of an english breakfast....fantastic...no grease by the way...see my pics...

we took our leave from their house about 1PM heading to our friend's house in bexleyheath, kent, south of london...

a note here...our friends in bexleyheath are actually karen's friends....karen and joan have been pen-pals for 50 years, next year...since they were 14...

we see them as often as we can...they will come to boston in september so that we can have a proper celebration of the 50 years...

we had a bite to eat and retired after tons of talk... joan had made me a triffle which i love...

on monday we drove out into the kent countryside as we often do...we love the oast houses and thatched roofs so prevelent in kent..

we had lunch at a lakeside cafe, where we have been before...homemade...

in the late afternoon we visited one of their children who also lives with her kids in bexleyheath...

that nite we went to the local indian restaurant for a meal...good as always... 77 pounds+

bed


the next day we had a nice breakfast again at our friends'...it was a quiet morning....i did some internet...we had lunch...

we then departed for oxted in surrey...we would spend our last two nites with other friends...

we had a nice cocktail hour or so and then a roasted lamb dinner...as always very delicious...

sandy made me my favorite english dessert...bread and butter pudding, but this time she used croissants, whiskey and white chocolate....how do you say sinful....

i should tell you about their house...you enter at street level...their lot slopes down quite steeply, so there are 4 levels to this house...two bedroom floors and a dining/kitchen/living room floor with terrace and a lower level...its a most interesting house...how do you say mountain goat...it is charming really...

bed by 11...

wednesday nov 7...our last full day...

breakfast in the conservatory...we then decided that we would go to windsor for the day as karen wanted to see the special exhibit on royal weddings, and S&amp;C had not been to windsor since the fire...

on our way out of oxted we drove by mr fayed's estate where doddie is buried...high hedges!! and tons of security...

we arrived in time for lunch....no not at the castle...a small sandwich shop in the mall close to eton bridge...

we were almost alone in windsor castle...12.70 pounds for senior admission now...they have really stream lined the entrance since our last visit...

i should note that windsor castle is one of my favorite tourist sites anywhere...i always love visiting there and always see new things...

we did the full tour inside....it is magnificent...i should have been born royal, instead of just rich...haha...

lovely day

on our way back to oxted we stopped to pick up their daughter in law....she is thai and offered to cook us all a thai dinner that nite....we originally met sandy and chris in bangkok, btw...

karen participated in the prep....she took lots of notes...

the multi-course dinner was delicious...

we had such a nice evening with them, as we always do...

our flight on thursday did not leave until 5:55 so we had an easy day...we went into downtown oxted for some last minute gifts....nice shops...

we had a good indian lunch and then back to their house to pack up the car...on our way by 2...

turned in the car and easy ride to A/A for the on-time flight...

end to a great trip....

a few impressions will follow...
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Old Nov 15th, 2007, 07:18 PM
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i want to be kind and honest in my observations of romania...here goes...

we anticipated this trip to be one of adventure into a country yet to be fully discovered and appreciated.. it lived up to that billing...

we were disappointed in the dowr, rimes with sour, attitude of most romanians...few honest smiles...

the food was a disapointment, but we expected that...

costs were higher than we had expected...that will only increase i fear...

the sights were limited when you compare it to austria or germany or the czech rep...but there are some fantastic sights: peles, wooden churches, monesteries, painted churches--inside and out, open country side...

the way of life is slow....the driving is not...the life seems mostly aggraian...but closed factories dot the landscape too...and so do some new factories..

the economic state is fair to poor i should think now but the EEC will change that...

bucharest was a pleasant surprise...we liked it quite a bit...we had been told to skip it...

gas was expensive but not outrageous like england ($8. per gallon)...

driving was very easy if you paid attention...the roads improve daily...i had basically no complaint with the roads...

many romanians take poor risks when driving...they pass when it is unsafe and they drive way too fast for some conditions....there are many accidents...

atm's are everywhere...

there is little to nothing to buy for soveniers..this disappointed us...we bought one 4 inche plate for ourselves and one door hanging...

cloting generally is drab...

like most places the young are changing that however...

hotels are decent but not lux...we did not do any homestays...

many menus have english sub-titles

would we return?: i don't think so...

were we glad we went?...of course...we love new explorations..

will we try other unexplored european sites: yes if there are any left...

thanks again to all who answered my fodors questions as i planned this trip...

comments are welcome

bob
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Old Nov 15th, 2007, 09:18 PM
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I've been to Romania twice, mostly Transylvania, in last four years. I have eaten at fatastic restaurants for under $10 American (no alcohol, but everything else) per person. I have traveled through incredible mountians, seen astonishing castles, toured gorgeous cathedrals, visited quaint (but primitive) villages, met wonderful people. I did have friends in Romania that provided help with our itinerary. One must keep in mind Romania has been the slowest recovering eastern bloc nation and you have to pick and choose what you do, where you go, etc. Its far less developed than much of Europe. Rail travel can be miserable and taxi drivers are notoroius rip-off artists. Armed with such information, you can have a wonderfu, inexpensive holiday. Have seen some less than complimentary comments about Romania here and am wondering how our experiences were so different?
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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 05:37 AM
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don't know steve....we were expecting that things would be much less expensive but still we did find then way cheaper than the rest of europe...

we make travel friends very easily and found that in romania this was almost impossible...they just seem so stand-off-ish...

i'm glad you had wonderful experiences....like so many things in life, different strokes for different folks...
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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 09:50 AM
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thanks Bob, for a great insightful trip report!
You got alot of friends here, who needs Romania
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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 10:12 AM
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thanks mimi
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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 10:24 AM
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I didn't really get a chance to chat with people, considering my short stay, but I think that it's quite possible (speaking as an amateur psychoanalyst) that the Ceaucescu regime would leave scars that would make casual, open conversation feel quite dangerous, and it might take some more time to get over this.
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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 11:25 AM
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hi guys!
meet EFIAVI (fredi), father of gal from bkk, born in romania and living now in israel. I love romania, and ready to help anybody travelling there .
Few tips:
-If u dont like hotels-like me-, bucharest has many apartments 4 hire, not expensive! and u can cook yr meals -if u know how- and drink yo own-made coffee ! I used www.romvision.ro - excelent!They picked me up at airport (20 euro)and helped with luggage.
-Country-tourism (called agrotourism) is developping fast, and there are many guesthouses (pension) all over romania! Cheap, clean , feel the real romanian way of life and eat real traditional romanian food (not like bob's &quot;ROMANIAN FOIE GRAS&quot; ) cooked by owner herself.See www.antrec.ro .
-the &quot;rum pastry&quot; is SAVARIN - try the one at famous CAPSA pastry shop (opposite hotel CAPITOL on CALEA VICTORIEI RD.).Delicious!and if u get there, taste some FONDANTE- u will never forget the taste!
-Never take TRIPE CIORBA (SOUP) - locals love it, but has an odd taste...Go 4 ANY OTHER CIORBA -MEAT, MEAT BALLS ,VEGETABLE.
-If u hire car, ask 4 GPS - cheap, effective and speaks english.
-Avoid pick-up taxies in bucharest- u will pay driver's weekly wage...
-If u like markets - go to AMZEI MARKET (PIATA AMZEI)- FLOWERS, FRUITS, VEGGIES, SUPERMARKET, even
CHESSES and PRETZELS.
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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 12:58 PM
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BOB- i think u made a great mistake-
to drive 2000 miles in 2 weeks ? this is marathon running, not leisure tour! And besides - u missed alot! Limited sites?
In Sibiu - i didnt see u mantioned BRUKENTHAL MUSEUM and OPEN AIR ASTRA MUSEUM - 2 most famous sites in the region! No souvenirs? Astra is full of them ! Close to Sibiu is SIBIEL, with famous GLASS ICONS MUSEUM, and also AVRIG, with glass master painter Dan Diagonescu !
Then u went to Painted Monasteries near SUCEAVA via Satu Mare? Just 4 the MARY CEMETERY? (nice in itself!).Like going boston-new york via albany!And, by the way, why did not you take the TRANSFAGARASAN route, the wonderful road which crosses the ALPS MOUNTAINS? MAGNIFIC!!(May be it was already closed 4 the winter)?
Food dissapointmenr? If u eat tripe soup and &quot;Roumanian traditional&quot; foie-gras( French delly)and pay a lot 4 it...sure its dissapointing.
In romania eat MAMALIGA (POLENTA) with cheese and sour cream or with the wonderful meat or rice stuffed cabbage or vine leaves, CIORBA (sour soup), MITITEI( famous romanian meat croquettes), ROMANIAN GRILL (leave the mcdonald for U.S), PAPANASI (those creppes and jam u mantioned), and many others real traditional romanian food!
Limited sites? Try the DANUBE DELTA, famous in the world,
its unique!!Go to famous health SPAS ...and, most important: take it easy, nobody is rushing you! 2000 miles? JESUS!!
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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 04:48 PM
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efiavi,

There is no need to accuse someone of making a mistake after the fact. As far as travel is concerned, <i>de gustibus non disputantum</i>. You could have pointed out what sadly was missed for the enlightenment of readers who are considering travel in Romania, leaving out negative comments about the OP's choices.
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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 04:50 PM
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I was about to post the same thing to you, efiavi.
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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 07:02 PM
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just for the record...gal is my thai friend...i corresponded with fredi prior to my trip, so he is not being CRITICAL....

i think he is bringing this all up for other's benefit...
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