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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 04:44 PM
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6 days, first timers in Paris

DH and I are planning a 6-days trip to Paris (after 2 other weeks we will spend in Provence and Dordogne) next Oct, 2019. We are in our early 50s, interested in architecture, photography, some art, good food. We want to see the highlights and still allow for a sit-down lunch every day (can be a picnic, but no eating on the go) and time for relaxing. We will probably stay in the 6th, but nothing is set in stone yet. Here is a first draft plan, please let me know if we’re trying to do too much. Unless specified, we plan to walk from point A to B, with many photo stops.

Day 1 (Sun): Versailles, as I hope to see the fountains. In the evening, Eiffel Tower (all the way up) to see Paris at night. Versailles is not a top priority, so plan B is to skip it and see things/places that might be too rushed in the next 5 days.

Day 2 (Mon): Place de la Concorde, Musee de l'Orangerie, Tuileries Garden, Royal Palace, Place Vendome, Madeleine Church, Opera Garnier self tour.

Day 3 (Wed): Saint Jaques tower, Pont Neuf, Ile de la Cite, including climb up the Notre Dame tower, Saint Chapelle, Vedettes du Pont Neuf cruise, Hôtel de Ville.

Day 4 (Wed): Arc de Triomphe (climb up), metro to Trocadero, Pont Alexandre III, Invalides/ Napoleon’s Tomb, Louvre (open late).

Day 5 (Thu): Saint Sulpice Church, Luxembourg Gardens, Pantheon, Eglise St-Séverin, Eglise St Etienne-du-Mont, Musee d’Orsay (open late),

Day 6 (Fri): Galeries Lafayette and Montmartre (Sacre Coeur, Place du Tertre, Moulin de la Galette) + Calife dinner Seine tour.

I don’t know if we can fit an evening trip up the Montparnasse tower for the City views, but more or less, how does this sound?

From what I read, the fountains at Versailles would still be running on Sundays in Oct, but should we skip it for a more relaxed Paris visit?

No dinner plans yet, but we will pick restaurants based on their location, for night photography of: Louvre, Notre Dame, Eiffel Tower and Place de la Concorde. If you have any favorites close-by, please share. Thank you.
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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 05:06 PM
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Sounds like a wonderful trip. Rather than skip Versailles I might substitute Vaux-le-Vicomte and eliminate one stop each day if you want a more leisurely pace. Versailles might be very busy on a Sunday even in October. Walking in a new place often takes longer than we anticipate because there is so much to explore and see. Consider eliminating one thing each day for example on Day 2 you might skip the Madeleine Church. Day 3 make your river cruise at dusk as the lights are coming on--just beautiful. Do some research before you visit the Louvre and determine what you most wish to view and map it out before your visit. You will have limited time and it is vast and confusing and usually crowded. We had some rather cold days visiting Paris one October and did not want to spend time in parks, just something to consider while planning. Book your Eiffel Tower visit before you go or it could be sold out. Bon Voyage!
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 05:25 AM
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I have only been to Paris twice, but have not seen half the things you're planning, including Versaille. Especially on the first day there, do you really want to leave Paris and travel to Versaille? Save that for your next time would be my advice!
Scootoir gives great advice above, especially about the Pont de Neuf riverboat at dusk (or later if you want to catch the lit up Eiffel from the water), and the idea that walking in new places takes longer..
The Louvre and the Orsay are amazing, and exhausting. Although on paper your walks/combinations are logical, I don't think I'd want to keep going like this, especially after a nice sit down lunch...
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 05:35 AM
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You're going to get a dose of reality when you leave the paper plans and actually get on the ground, but that's fine.

I would not ever consider rushing off to Versailles at the beginning of a trip to Paris. But then, I have had my fill of it and don't care if I ever see it again.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 05:44 AM
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That's a long time off, there isn't really any reason you need to have an agenda set in stone, anyway. So I think it's fine to think of things you want to see and have a general plan, but of course, if you don't feel like doing something when it comes down to it, you don't have to. There isn't really much of anything on your list you have to book in advance except Eiffel Tower as far as I'm concerned, in Paris anyway. Versailles, also. If you are going up the Eiffel Tower I don't know why you'd want to go up Montparnasse Tower, also, usually people do that to avoid lines at Eiffel Tower, I thought. Especially since you said both of those would be at night, I could see it more if one was day and one night (as to why you might do both).

I'm very surprised that since you said you are so interested in architecture and photography that you have NO galleries/museums dedicated to them on your list, and there are a couple good ones in Paris. The architecture museum is at Trocadero. For photography, I'd suggest the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson and the Jeu de Paume. But you do have a lot of iconic things on your list, sure. It's your call why you want to climb up the towers of Notre Dame, that must be important to you. If you skip Versailles, you could throw in some of those things. Ditto Napoleon's tomb. Maybe you've always wanted to see that for some reason. Personally, I would never go to see that if you didn't plan to visit the military museum, which is fantastic, but that isn't on your list anyway. I know history isn't one of your particular interests, though, so I guess that's why, makes sense. So that's why I don't know why you want to see Napoleon's tomb.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 05:47 AM
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My fourth visit and still have not seen all of that. We tend to get lost in the cafes and wandering around gawking. We will be there for five nights soon and the only thing on our to-do list this trip is Musee d' Orsay, a trip to Suresnes American Cemetery, see all the lights of Paris and window displays and have a drink at the Ritz. I just read the Hotel on Place Vendome by Tilar J. Mazzeo and have to go now. It is nice to play it by ear for some days and just enjoy. Musee de Montmartre is also very nice. I have been to the Orangerie twice and so love it there. Always new exhibits. We love the market streets. Rue Montorgueil is one of our favourites.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 06:40 AM
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Paris is always a good idea; we'll be there on a return visit next month for Christmas. This will be our 2nd/3rd/6th/8th visit, depending on the family member, and collectively we have not visited all of the places on your agenda.

This said, I, like others who have posted think your agenda is too much. In running from A to B you'll miss the everyday scenes that will make your Paris holiday far more memorable than the iconic photos that "everyone" takes. I am not writing that you should not take some of the the iconic snaps; just that you should also give yourself the flexibility to wander down a pretty street; to lose track of time snapping pictures of beautiful cheeses in the markets; or distract yourself with interesting photo opportunities, and so forth.

From a logistical standpoint, and speaking from experience, the "late hours" at museums can be as much of a drag as the "free" First Sunday of the month. Lots of people queue early to take advantage of the extra hours or free entrance that the experience is ruined.

I hope this is helpful.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 07:08 AM
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We tend to get lost in the cafes and wandering around gawking
wander down a pretty street; to lose track of time snapping pictures of beautiful cheeses in the markets; or distract yourself with interesting photo opportunities, and so forth.
Yes, this is Paris.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 07:18 AM
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Wow, thank you all, this is really helpful. I had a feeling it might be too much, but you all confirmed it. I think we'll skip Versailles, we can always see it some other time. Not sure if/when we'll ever get to Paris again, but you never know. I hope we will.

I'll re-organize the things we want to see/do, add some (there are some great suggestions here I was not aware of), take out some and allow more time for just wondering around.

@joan - You're right, I need to re-think the "after lunch" activities

@Christina - some interesting museum suggestions, I'll definitely look into those. Plus, we also need some plan B options in case of bad weather. I know this is a long time off, but knowing my schedule, I will probably not have time for it later for a few months. Love to plan, but it takes time and life gets in the way so many times...

Back to my drawing board, now. Thanks again, I really appreciate this.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 07:39 AM
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It's a little early, but there are usually a few very good photography exhibitions around Paris. Galleries too. Christina mentioned a couple and there is also
Maison européenne de la photographie 5/7 Rue de fourcy - 75 004 Paris - France
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 07:40 AM
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I would switch Versailles with a "slower" day rather than skipping it. You might be jet lagged and really pooped that first day and V is immense.

Also, did I miss Jacquemart-Andre on your itinerary? It's lovely and has a nice restaurant (make reservations): https://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/fr/home

Nice resto at d'Orsay and a rooftop one in Pompidou as well.

Dinner at Montparnasse Tower will be a splurge and DO get reservations well in advance for that.

I have had lunch at Printemps and Le Bon Marché...both good but less atmospheric. Second one was less crowded when I was there during the week.

Near Luxembourg Gardens I can't remember about reservations here--great food back when--google for recent reviews: DH and I ate at: Le Coup de Torchon, 187 Rue Saint-Jacques

Near Montparnasse Tower and reservations a must as it's so small but exquisite food: https://www.restaurantlacerisaie.com/

Another suggestion is to go to the largest place first each day. Then you will have an idea of time and stamina left for your list.

If you are OK with tours, check:
https://www.pariscityvision.com/
We took a night tour of Paris and had dinner in the Eiffel Tower. This was some years ago so do double-check and look around. In October, you might be able to do this through your hotel once you get there.

Here is my 2016 Paris trip report fyi: April in Paris...with a Side of Bordeaux
There are other TR's if you click my name.

DH and I visited this photo museum: https://www.mep-fr.org/
There is also one in Jeu de Paume (by l'Orangerie) but I have no 1st hand info.

Have great fun planning your trip. Don't worry about what you miss; you'll go back!

Last edited by TDudette; Nov 18th, 2018 at 08:03 AM. Reason: hit post by accident
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 07:44 AM
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Which reminds me that the Pompidou also has photography exhibits.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 08:01 AM
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Paris Museum Pass | Official Website

Look at the Paris Museum Pass as it covers nearly all museums and many sights in Paris - buy it at participating museum and lets you skip ticket lines at Louvre, Versailles and other places. Be sure to take RER C to Versailles as it takes you right to within a few blocks of the palace entrance. The town of Versailles is cool too and many palace visitors miss it, From there you could take a commuter train back to Paris and Saint-Lazare station near the Opera.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 08:54 AM
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Hi welcome to Paris.
Here my advice.

Day 1 (Sun): Versailles, as I hope to see the fountains. In the evening, Eiffel Tower (all the way up) to see Paris at night. Versailles is not a top priority, so plan B is to skip it and see things/places that might be too rushed in the next 5 days.
Yes. We were at Versailles 2 weeks ago, schoolhl-olidays, overcrowded. Guide told us to avoid any week-end if possible. Take a private tour to see some of the interior if you do go on a sunday and prepare for crowds.
I too kind of prefer Vaux le Vicomte but I think it is less accessible without a car.

Day 2 (Mon): Place de la Concorde, Musee de l'Orangerie, Tuileries Garden, Royal Palace, Place Vendome, Madeleine Church, Opera Garnier self tour.
Ok. not too much. Eglise de la Madelein I have always foudn ugly.. .

Day 3 (Wed): Saint Jaques tower, Pont Neuf, Ile de la Cite, including climb up the Notre Dame tower, Saint Chapelle, Vedettes du Pont Neuf cruise, Hôtel de Ville.
Ok. I'd recommend going to Sainte Chapelle for a concert, they are open in the evening. Add la Conciergerie, next to Ste Chapelle.

Day 4 (Wed): Arc de Triomphe (climb up), metro to Trocadero, Pont Alexandre III, Invalides/ Napoleon’s Tomb, Louvre (open late).
Any particular interest in le Trocadero ? Nothing appeals to me there, and you can view it from Eifel Tower.
Ditto Napoleon's tomb. Just a big kind of sarcophage in which a monster rests.

Day 5 (Thu): Saint Sulpice Church, Luxembourg Gardens, Pantheon, Eglise St-Séverin, Eglise St Etienne-du-Mont, Musee d’Orsay (open late),
Never understood why people visit St Sulpice. But why not - do it at a time close to lunch or dinner, as it is close to a lot of restaurants around Les Halles (I rec le rocher de Cancale, very touristy but quite nice)

Day 6 (Fri): Galeries Lafayette and Montmartre (Sacre Coeur, Place du Tertre, Moulin de la Galette) + Calife dinner Seine tour.
I dislike dinner on a cruise, so I' recommend doing either the Sein (but you already do another day) and eat elsewhere. But some people find the food great at le calife. I don't.

I Love Musée d'Orsay and Jacquemart as mentioned. I also like Cluny very much as a mix of medieval (unicorn tapestry) and roman ruins.
Save time to get lost in Paris that is the best way to see it !

I am not aware of good (or actually any) restaurant with a view on place de la Concorde.
For a nice evening with a view on Notre Dame, try le Zyriabat the top of Institut du Monde Arabe (Lebanese food, correct and too expensive but compensated with a great view from the terrace).

If you like meat, sacrrée fleur close to Sacre Coeur (towards Chateau rouge) has fabulous meat. Make a reservation like for Zyriab.

Have fun.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 09:29 AM
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@TDudette: Paris will be after 2 weeks already in France, so no jet lag issue.
Jacquemart-Andre looks wonderful, how come nobody talks about it? Maybe see that one instead of Versailles? I know it's different, but I'm really considering skipping Versailles so we have more time for Paris proper. So much to see...and what's interesting, we're generally not city people, we prefer small towns and villages. But Paris is different
There will definitely be a lot left for a future trip. Thanks for the restaurant suggestions and the link to your TR.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by tuscanlifeedit
Which reminds me that the Pompidou also has photography exhibits.
Late october has Paris gearing up for Paris Photo already, so lots of galleries have photography shows as well.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by xyz99
@TDudette: Paris will be after 2 weeks already in France, so no jet lag issue.
Jacquemart-Andre looks wonderful, how come nobody talks about it? Maybe see that one instead of Versailles? I know it's different, but I'm really considering skipping Versailles so we have more time for Paris proper. So much to see...and what's interesting, we're generally not city people, we prefer small towns and villages. But Paris is different
There will definitely be a lot left for a future trip. Thanks for the restaurant suggestions and the link to your TR.
Other great places for art are Fondation Cartier (but check their program, sometimes it's nights of discussions, but sometimes it's great and thought provoking shows) and Palais de Tokyo.

This is another, wonderful "small" museum:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Musée_Nissim_de_Camondo

And a place I always return to is the Musée de la Vie Romantique, which is really the studio of Dutch painter Ary Scheffer.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 09:56 AM
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@thibaut,
Yes, Vaux le Vicomte looks great too, but it seems a little more complicated to get to without a car. Need to investigate this.
Conciergerie - do you recommend an inside tour? Or just a pass by?
Trocadero is just for the view of ET and some photos. A lot of people seem to think that's the best view point of it.
We're not looking for a restaurant with the view on place de la Concorde (or any other site), but something in the neighborhood, so we could walk around after dinner and take some night photos.
Love hearing all these recommendations of places that are generally not listed on the "top 10" list, but seem wonderful. Thank you!
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 10:10 AM
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<<,
Jacquemart-Andre looks wonderful, how come nobody talks about it?>>

People, including me, have talked about it many times. Also La Maison Fournaise on the Ile des Impressionistes.

They are both wonderful. And most tourists to Paris don't cotton on to them or visit them or care about them. Depends on whether you want to follow the yellow brick road around Paris or branch out a bit.
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Old Nov 18th, 2018, 10:31 AM
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A recent thread said that there was a new shuttle bus to Vaux le Vicomte from some train station, making it much easier by public transit than before.
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