Where in Tuscany to base ourselves for a week?
Oct 2nd, 2016, 07:23 AM
#21
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Wow this is a lot to absorb! On one hand, staying in towns gives more dining options and something to witness in the evening. Countryside after dark is not much to experience. But I really thought countryside living will be a 'real' way of experiencing Tuscan life. Maybe not?
We are going to spend ~3 days in Florence as well. I thought given we have a week to spend beyond Florence, it was a good idea to rent a car and stay in smaller towns. Is my line of thinking not applicable in the season we are going there in?
We are going to spend ~3 days in Florence as well. I thought given we have a week to spend beyond Florence, it was a good idea to rent a car and stay in smaller towns. Is my line of thinking not applicable in the season we are going there in?
Oct 2nd, 2016, 07:43 AM
#22
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Tuscan life I the countryside is probably like in a lot if places : Shutdown with people living indoors with family. Better to be in cities. Even San gimignano was boring at 9 pm ...
I don't see what is difficult with driving I Italy. I drove a big car (small bus actually) in Tuscany and it was perfectly doable. I did drive in the dark since days are short in October/ November.
Just drink a good glass of wine to put you at ease ;-)
I don't see what is difficult with driving I Italy. I drove a big car (small bus actually) in Tuscany and it was perfectly doable. I did drive in the dark since days are short in October/ November.
Just drink a good glass of wine to put you at ease ;-)
Oct 2nd, 2016, 09:28 AM
#23
We are going to spend ~3 days in Florence as well. I thought given we have a week to spend beyond Florence, it was a good idea to rent a car and stay in smaller towns. Is my line of thinking not applicable in the season we are going there in?>>
rtwin - this is exactly the sort of trip that we enjoy. I can't see that you'll have any real problems with cold weather at the end of October/beg of November; we had a week in Florence about 10 years ago in the last week of October [I know it was then as it was the UK schools Autumn half term which always falls then] and it was warm enough to eat outside most evenings though you might need a cardigan after the sun goes down.
3 days in Florence followed by a week divided between two other small cities/large towns would be a perfect combination. Agriturismi are all very well, but they can be quite isolated especially at night and if you don't want to drive in the dark you are stuck. I would pick Siena [where there is loads to see anyway plus enough people around at night to make it interesting] and another place. Actually, thinking about it Orbetello might not be that bad a choice; there are many interesting places to visit like Porto Ercole, Saturnia [for the hot pools] Pitigliano, which is a bit like Orvieto but less touristy, and en route, the stunning Massa Maritima which is another little visited but beautiful hill town.
I should add that I have a friend who stayed in San Gim for a week and loved it, so that might be another option [it's mad during the day, but very nice at night, apparently]
Are you flying into and out of Florence? if so, Fodor's wisdom would suggest that you should put your stay in Florence last and your furthest destination first, so that you work your way back towards the place which is closest to the airport. If you did want to include Orbetello, it would make a good first stop as it might then still be warm enough for swimming, particularly in the lagoon. you could then work your way back to Siena, drop the car off there, and get the bus or train to Florence.
rtwin - this is exactly the sort of trip that we enjoy. I can't see that you'll have any real problems with cold weather at the end of October/beg of November; we had a week in Florence about 10 years ago in the last week of October [I know it was then as it was the UK schools Autumn half term which always falls then] and it was warm enough to eat outside most evenings though you might need a cardigan after the sun goes down.
3 days in Florence followed by a week divided between two other small cities/large towns would be a perfect combination. Agriturismi are all very well, but they can be quite isolated especially at night and if you don't want to drive in the dark you are stuck. I would pick Siena [where there is loads to see anyway plus enough people around at night to make it interesting] and another place. Actually, thinking about it Orbetello might not be that bad a choice; there are many interesting places to visit like Porto Ercole, Saturnia [for the hot pools] Pitigliano, which is a bit like Orvieto but less touristy, and en route, the stunning Massa Maritima which is another little visited but beautiful hill town.
I should add that I have a friend who stayed in San Gim for a week and loved it, so that might be another option [it's mad during the day, but very nice at night, apparently]
Are you flying into and out of Florence? if so, Fodor's wisdom would suggest that you should put your stay in Florence last and your furthest destination first, so that you work your way back towards the place which is closest to the airport. If you did want to include Orbetello, it would make a good first stop as it might then still be warm enough for swimming, particularly in the lagoon. you could then work your way back to Siena, drop the car off there, and get the bus or train to Florence.
Oct 2nd, 2016, 02:46 PM
#24
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annhig, we are flying into Florence from Paris by the evening flight and planning to stay in Florence for couple of days before making our way to the countryside. Then return on 5 Nov and have a relaxed evening, dinner, some shopping and next day morning fly back to US. We too wanted to leave Florence for the last, but we are arriving so late that we won't be renting a car at night. Hotels near the Florence airport are pretty dismal, plus would end up costing the same as city center, including the fixed cab charges 25E. Rather than staying in the city center for one night and making our way in the morning to the airport for picking up a rental car, we thought we might as well spend couple of days and then head out towards the countryside. We intend to leave majority of our luggage with our Florence hotel so that we can come back and stay at the same hotel on 5 Nov and check out for the airport from there. Do you have a better idea? Please suggest. I am not happy with this sequence either.
Oct 2nd, 2016, 02:51 PM
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I would never go to a seaside town in Tuscany in late October or November. The chances are that you will get more rain there than you would inland. Besides, these are mainly beach towns that are only lively in summertime.
It is not winter in Tuscany in Oct or Nov. Winter starts Dec 21. If it is windy at night it will be unpleasantly cold. Otherwise, it should be brisk but nice weather.
Evening strolls happen before dinner, even in the countryside, where you will often see couples walking alogn the road. The point is to get some exercise and work up an appetite. So the people watching time in a town or city like Siena is between 5 & 7pm.
If you enjoy relaxing by the fire in the evenings with a glass of wine and having a meal that starts at 8pm and afterwards, you just walk across the garden to go to bed, and you have the company of other visitors and farmers, then being in the countryside, on a farm, in Tuscany in autumn is full of wonderful smells and activity.
Even though I wouldn't switch hotels twice, I think you have a nice plan to spend a week in small-town, rural Tuscany. Since you don't want to stress out driving, it makes sense for you to pick two places to stay. Because of the possibility of night chill, most Italians are not going to be outside much after dark. That is even true in Siena. (In Florence, there are outdoor heaters in the cafe). So think about whether you might find it cosy to be on a farm with the farmers. Or in a small town like Pienza (with other tourists!) Since you have 2 stays, you could try both.
But you've identified the places you are interested and they are good choices. They don't need to be chagned, in my opinon.
It is not winter in Tuscany in Oct or Nov. Winter starts Dec 21. If it is windy at night it will be unpleasantly cold. Otherwise, it should be brisk but nice weather.
Evening strolls happen before dinner, even in the countryside, where you will often see couples walking alogn the road. The point is to get some exercise and work up an appetite. So the people watching time in a town or city like Siena is between 5 & 7pm.
If you enjoy relaxing by the fire in the evenings with a glass of wine and having a meal that starts at 8pm and afterwards, you just walk across the garden to go to bed, and you have the company of other visitors and farmers, then being in the countryside, on a farm, in Tuscany in autumn is full of wonderful smells and activity.
Even though I wouldn't switch hotels twice, I think you have a nice plan to spend a week in small-town, rural Tuscany. Since you don't want to stress out driving, it makes sense for you to pick two places to stay. Because of the possibility of night chill, most Italians are not going to be outside much after dark. That is even true in Siena. (In Florence, there are outdoor heaters in the cafe). So think about whether you might find it cosy to be on a farm with the farmers. Or in a small town like Pienza (with other tourists!) Since you have 2 stays, you could try both.
But you've identified the places you are interested and they are good choices. They don't need to be chagned, in my opinon.
Oct 3rd, 2016, 01:35 AM
#26
rtwin - I can see your dilemma. it's difficult to plan when you have a late flight in and an early flight out. Probably the plan you have is the best one - a couple of days in Florence then heading out, and coming back for a night before you flight out.
frencharmoire - your experience of the weather in Tuscany at the end of October must be different from mine. OK it might rain, but if it's warm, I can't see any need for outdoor heaters in the cafes, and IME both Florence and Siena are buzzing all day and night long.
IME if you want some life and atmosphere in the evening the place to be is in a city or town; you might be lucky in an agriturismo but OTOH you might not and it could be a quite isolated [and isolating] experience once it's dark and you've only the cows/sheep/pigs for company.
frencharmoire - your experience of the weather in Tuscany at the end of October must be different from mine. OK it might rain, but if it's warm, I can't see any need for outdoor heaters in the cafes, and IME both Florence and Siena are buzzing all day and night long.
IME if you want some life and atmosphere in the evening the place to be is in a city or town; you might be lucky in an agriturismo but OTOH you might not and it could be a quite isolated [and isolating] experience once it's dark and you've only the cows/sheep/pigs for company.
Oct 3rd, 2016, 03:20 AM
#27
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annhig, yes probably it's for the best. Serendipitously, it also marks our arrival in the countryside on Saturday when many owners prefer to start the renting cycle (most state this rule for bookings until October, on their websites). Hopefully our second half booking which would be mid-week won't be a problem as it falls in Nov.
I'm getting such conflicting reports on whether the Tuscan towns (barring Florence) would have any buzz going on post 9/9:30 pm during our stay, it's hard to decide town vs countryside stay. I don't want to feel isolated. I do want interaction with the locals, some overlap with their lives.
I'm getting such conflicting reports on whether the Tuscan towns (barring Florence) would have any buzz going on post 9/9:30 pm during our stay, it's hard to decide town vs countryside stay. I don't want to feel isolated. I do want interaction with the locals, some overlap with their lives.
Oct 3rd, 2016, 04:09 AM
#28
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I don't live in Tuscany, but in Le Marche, just east of Tuscany, in a small hill town. The culture is similar.
Here, you won't see many people out strolling before dinner. They may be cooking dinner, or rushing to the grocery to pick up the makings of dinner, or rushing home from work to eat dinner. Teenagers often "hang out" in the late afternoon in the center of town, and the elderly, especially the men, may be killing time at the bar.
I don't know anyone who goes out for a stroll to work up an appetite. Most of us have more appetite than is good for us. Some people go out for a stroll after a heavy meal, often on a Sunday, to work off some calories. A lot of us, especially if we're retired, go for a brisk walk, or a run, for exercise, but more often in the early morning than in the afternoon or evening.
In the evening, except in the summer,you mighti see a fair number of people in the streets only if something's going on: a concert, a theatre production, courses at the adult school, or things of that nature. Teenagers hang out after dinner, and buzz around town on their motor scooters.
Someone has already mentioned All Saints, the first of November, which is a national holiday. Many towns now have some sort of Halloween festival, often several days long in the days leading up to All Saints. This will animate the streets. There are also other fall festivals, especially at the weekend. Here is a list of some of them.
https://www.discovertuscany.com/tusc...n-tuscany.html
Also, November 2nd is the traditional day for visiting the cemeteries. Many people come from a distance to visit their family tombs. This means family get-togethers, meals out with old friends, and in general, a little more life in town.
Here, you won't see many people out strolling before dinner. They may be cooking dinner, or rushing to the grocery to pick up the makings of dinner, or rushing home from work to eat dinner. Teenagers often "hang out" in the late afternoon in the center of town, and the elderly, especially the men, may be killing time at the bar.
I don't know anyone who goes out for a stroll to work up an appetite. Most of us have more appetite than is good for us. Some people go out for a stroll after a heavy meal, often on a Sunday, to work off some calories. A lot of us, especially if we're retired, go for a brisk walk, or a run, for exercise, but more often in the early morning than in the afternoon or evening.
In the evening, except in the summer,you mighti see a fair number of people in the streets only if something's going on: a concert, a theatre production, courses at the adult school, or things of that nature. Teenagers hang out after dinner, and buzz around town on their motor scooters.
Someone has already mentioned All Saints, the first of November, which is a national holiday. Many towns now have some sort of Halloween festival, often several days long in the days leading up to All Saints. This will animate the streets. There are also other fall festivals, especially at the weekend. Here is a list of some of them.
https://www.discovertuscany.com/tusc...n-tuscany.html
Also, November 2nd is the traditional day for visiting the cemeteries. Many people come from a distance to visit their family tombs. This means family get-togethers, meals out with old friends, and in general, a little more life in town.
Oct 3rd, 2016, 02:38 PM
#29
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As a very general matter, IMHO, at that time of year, staying in cities can be better, because if the weather is not good, there are more indoor activities to do, to get out of the cold or wet.
I have only been in San Gimignano earlier in October, or in May. At those times of year, the main square was lively in the evening, and it was very pleasant to sit at a cafe and people-watch with a glass of wine or cup of coffee. We liked to stay in the town because in the evening and morning, the day-trip visitors were not there. And San Gimignano has a good number of quite-good restaurants.
You've seen the great variety of opinions on driving in Tuscany, at night or otherwise. I'm one who doesn't mind the driving at all; our long-standing routine is that I drive (manual), and DH navigates. Driving at night is more difficult for me, because my night vision is not great, and because I do like to have some wine with dinner. I think the signage on small roads in Tuscany is far better than a similar-sized rural road in the U.S.
But the bottom line on driving is that if you will not be driving at all, and your husband gets stressed driving at night in a strange location, then why do that do yourselves? Stay in two different smaller cities / larger towns where you have a variety of restaurants and can walk around before or after dinner, and your husband can save himself the brain damage.
I have only been in San Gimignano earlier in October, or in May. At those times of year, the main square was lively in the evening, and it was very pleasant to sit at a cafe and people-watch with a glass of wine or cup of coffee. We liked to stay in the town because in the evening and morning, the day-trip visitors were not there. And San Gimignano has a good number of quite-good restaurants.
You've seen the great variety of opinions on driving in Tuscany, at night or otherwise. I'm one who doesn't mind the driving at all; our long-standing routine is that I drive (manual), and DH navigates. Driving at night is more difficult for me, because my night vision is not great, and because I do like to have some wine with dinner. I think the signage on small roads in Tuscany is far better than a similar-sized rural road in the U.S.
But the bottom line on driving is that if you will not be driving at all, and your husband gets stressed driving at night in a strange location, then why do that do yourselves? Stay in two different smaller cities / larger towns where you have a variety of restaurants and can walk around before or after dinner, and your husband can save himself the brain damage.
Oct 4th, 2016, 01:25 PM
#30
>>>Serendipitously, it also marks our arrival in the countryside on Saturday when many owners prefer to start the renting cycle (most state this rule for bookings until October, on their websites).<<<
I haven't found that to be the case except in high season.
I haven't found that to be the case except in high season.
Oct 4th, 2016, 02:40 PM
#31
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Couple of points:
I've sat under heaters in late October and November in Florence, having cocktails. I was referring to when the sun goes down, which it does fairly early.
May I do just a bit of an eye-roll about whether walking "for exercise" never could possily mean "walking to work up an appetite" for many Italians? I confess I've not talked to every blessed one of them, but I hope to get around to it, somedays.) In the countryside, in rural areas, nobody is going window shopping or doing significant people watching, that's for sure. Whatever spirit is moving them, they are doing it *before* the dinner hour, not after.
If your husband has not driven in the dark in the Italian countryside and therefore is not worrying due to personal bad experiences, you are likely to be pleasantly surprised that it is much easier than either of you are imagining. Just like there are not a lot of people on the streets after dinner, there are very few vehicles on the road. If one is coming, you can see it from a very long distance away. Lights up everything! But if your husband has night vision problems, or whatever -- Tuscany has oodles of options: cities, towns, villages, borghi, castles and farms with restaurants. Have a blast!
I've sat under heaters in late October and November in Florence, having cocktails. I was referring to when the sun goes down, which it does fairly early.
May I do just a bit of an eye-roll about whether walking "for exercise" never could possily mean "walking to work up an appetite" for many Italians? I confess I've not talked to every blessed one of them, but I hope to get around to it, somedays.) In the countryside, in rural areas, nobody is going window shopping or doing significant people watching, that's for sure. Whatever spirit is moving them, they are doing it *before* the dinner hour, not after.
If your husband has not driven in the dark in the Italian countryside and therefore is not worrying due to personal bad experiences, you are likely to be pleasantly surprised that it is much easier than either of you are imagining. Just like there are not a lot of people on the streets after dinner, there are very few vehicles on the road. If one is coming, you can see it from a very long distance away. Lights up everything! But if your husband has night vision problems, or whatever -- Tuscany has oodles of options: cities, towns, villages, borghi, castles and farms with restaurants. Have a blast!
Oct 4th, 2016, 08:35 PM
#32
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We rented a farmhouse just outside Montepulciano for one week and made day trips from it.
http://www.capannedisopra.it/2011/EN/listino.htm
We considered it a perfect location and a dreamy place. Driving in the Italian countryside is not stressful but we never drove after dark.
http://www.capannedisopra.it/2011/EN/listino.htm
We considered it a perfect location and a dreamy place. Driving in the Italian countryside is not stressful but we never drove after dark.
Oct 5th, 2016, 03:09 PM
#33
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I would spend 7-10 days at least in Florence, rent an apartment right in the center of town(last year we were two blocks from the Duomo and it was great).
From there, you could explore the town at leisure as well as plan easy day trips to many different towns. Trains and buses run fairly frequently and could do a trip to Siena and catch the latest bus, while spending a good full day there.
Wine tours, bike rentals etc. etc.
From there, you could explore the town at leisure as well as plan easy day trips to many different towns. Trains and buses run fairly frequently and could do a trip to Siena and catch the latest bus, while spending a good full day there.
Wine tours, bike rentals etc. etc.
Oct 8th, 2016, 08:10 PM
#34
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if we are going to stay for few days within a town or near a town, another consideration is to have enough shops and open markets in that town from where we can get varieties of fresh pasta, vegetables, bread, cheese and pantry staples so we can cook in our apartment. Too small a town and maybe not enough interesting shops? Wrong assumption? Any particular Tuscan towns specifically known for their gourmet shops and amazing farmers' markets, etc? I know there are bound to be many in every town as this is Italy we are talking about. But still if any particular ones win your vote?
Oct 20th, 2016, 11:27 AM
#35
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After asking lot of queries on Fodors amidst cancelled trips and last minute panic, glad to finally declare we are leaving for our trip tomo! I would never feel fully prepared for a trip, and this is definitely a last-minute one. But I take adeep breath among lot of last minute running around, and tell myself it would be a beautiful trip simply because I am going there with my husband, and because I am going to be in Europe 
Oct 20th, 2016, 11:59 AM
#36
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Frencharmoire: <i> May I do just a bit of an eye-roll about whether walking "for exercise" never could possily mean "walking to work up an appetite" for many Italians? </i>
You can roll your eyes all day. I've been living in Italy for 18 years and have never heard of anyone walking to work up an appetite. My husband has lived in Italy all his life, and he's never heard of it either.
I never said no one ever did it, but, believe me, it's not a custom here. No one needs to work up an appetite, except maybe some convalescents and elderly people in the nursing homes; most of these people aren't really fit for walking.
Why do you think they sell so many appetite suppressants in the pharmacy? A number of times I've dined with groups of people who suggested a walk after dinner to "help them digest it", which really means they're hoping to work off some of the calories.
You can roll your eyes all day. I've been living in Italy for 18 years and have never heard of anyone walking to work up an appetite. My husband has lived in Italy all his life, and he's never heard of it either.
I never said no one ever did it, but, believe me, it's not a custom here. No one needs to work up an appetite, except maybe some convalescents and elderly people in the nursing homes; most of these people aren't really fit for walking.
Why do you think they sell so many appetite suppressants in the pharmacy? A number of times I've dined with groups of people who suggested a walk after dinner to "help them digest it", which really means they're hoping to work off some of the calories.
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