We'll be driving from Aix to St Cere and have decided to break our drive at Millau. We should be there by around noon, so I'm looking for ideas for the afternoon (pray no rain).

I've thought about the Gorge du Tarn but have been leaning toward La Couvertoirade. Does anyone have any thoughts about this? or other ideas? What's the road like getting to La C, which is pretty remote, I think? Worth the effort?

Thanks, as always, for your help.

St-Affrique
Cirque de Navacelles
Grotte de Clamouse
Grotte des Demoiselles
Lamalou-les-Bains

All those roads are pretty remote, but there's nothing daunting about them; it's easy driving IME.

We recently spent 2 weeks near the Gorges du Tarn & loved the area. I recall that you recommended the Gorge du Verdon to others. We much prefer the Tarn Gorge. I suggest that you give it a visit and let us know what you thing. Yo' ve seen ( and will see) "cute little Villages" in France. The Gorge du Tarn & perhaps a cave with stalactites & mites might be something different.

This is from my 35 page Languedoc itinerary:

Gorges du Tarn***

Tuesday

Head west on the D999 (you've been on this road before). If you did not visit La Couvertoirade yesterday - visit it now.
Just after the D999 crosses into the Aveyron department, it will turn right/north towards St Jean du Bruel. Then take the D999 west to Nant, then the small and scenic D991 to Cantobre*. This village sits entirely atop an interesting rock formation. My wife took many pictures from the roads leading to the village. Explore Cantobre on foot. It's a short visit. If you are short on time, the "interior" of the village (walk thru) could be skipped. It's actually more remarkable to see from a distance.

Then drive northwest along the Canyon de la Dourbrie**. Next, visit Chaos de Montpellier le Vieux***-. We spent several hours there in 2003. See the GG under Montpellier le Vieux. If you have trouble walking, perhaps this is not for you. The most spectacular places to view the rock formations require some walking over rocks, boulders, stairs, etc. My wife “opted out” (bad feet) for the walk to the best viewpoint. There is a “petite train” that will take you to a good viewpoint, so it’s possible for some in your party to see the best sites while others take the less strenuous option. Here is my recommendation for exploring this area. When you enter the Chaos, you will pay a fee & get a map at the entrance. Proceed & park your car in the big lot. There are lunch facilities there and also a good WC. Both the Green Guide and the map you get describe the various walks you can take (strangely, the map you receive at the entrance gate has north at the bottom in '03). All the various walks are very well marked. The Petite Train has a lunch break. Inquire about the next departure time for the train. If it departs soon, hop on it (don’t know the fee – we didn’t take it) and explore the area reached by the train (I’ll explain later). After returning from the train trip, or if the train does not depart for an hour or so, take the red “main route” to the Douminal. The view from the Douminal is by far the best, although it’s the difficult one to get to that I described earlier – especially the last one-quarter of the walk. After viewing the panorama from the Douminal, return to the parking lot and either take the train or leave the Chaos. For the train ride, it is kinda bland. They stop at the Belvedere, let you get out, view the panorama, and then return to the train. The train continues and then stops at a roundabout (see the map). I recommend getting out here and walking the “yellow” walk until you tire or things become a little repetitious. Find out the time of the return train, plan your walk accordingly, & take the train back to the parking lot. Here is what we actually did. We walked to the Belvedere. It is not a difficult walk, but it’s not that scenic either. We took in the view at the Belvedere, & then proceeded along the red “main route”. It immediately became difficult. Instead of following the red “main route”, we walked down to the paved train road, saw the signs that said “no pedestrians”, and proceeded along this route to the roundabout. It was the lunch break & we knew there would be no trains. We did the yellow walk & returned to the train road & proceeded back to the car park. The lunch break was over while we were on the road, so we hid in some bushes when we heard the train coming.

After the Chaos de Montpellier le Vieux, take the small D29 north to le Rozier.

Here are three options for staying in the Gorges du Tarn area - depending on your budget. Stay for 4 nights to explore this fascinating region.
1. In la Rozier, at the Hotel de la Muse et du Rozier. H�tel**** Restaurant de la Muse et du Rozier ~ Gorges du Tarn This hotel/restaurant is the most "centrally located" of the three options. We had a very nice dinner here in 2015. I don't think it has Air Conditioning (in '15), however. We dined here during the record heatwave in July, and we did not need AC in the interior dining room.
2. Just northeast of La Malene is the gorgeous Chateau de la Caze. It is actually a 1 star chateau in the green guide. I’ve never stayed there, but we have walked the grounds & toured the castle – it’s quite remarkable. It has a pool, nice grounds, but as you might expect, it costs more. We had a fabulous dinner there in '15. Accueil - Ch�teau de la Caze
3. In the middle of the Tarn Gorge in Ste Enimie, at Auberge du Moulin. Accueil | Auberge du Moulin Sainte-�nimie, Gorges du Tarn
We stayed in this hotel on our very first visit to the Gorges du Tarn area in the mid 1990s. We were planning on dining here in '15, but when we "checked out" the posted menu - it was very bland (we're foodies) so we dined elsewhere.

There are many, many "tourist" restaurants in this area. However, when we stayed here for 2 weeks we had excellent meals at Capion in Millau, Chateau de Creissels in Creissels just west of Millau, Chateau de la Caze, Hotel de la Muse et du Rozier, and La Lozerette just outside of Florac in Cocures at the east end of the Gorges du Tarn (also a hotel).




Wednesday through Friday night.

Touring the Gorges de la Jonte** and the Gorges du Tarn***.
Please don’t try to see these gorges in 1 or 2 days. They are remarkable, and the gorge walls appear different at various times of the day with sunlight patterns shining on the ochre colored faces of the cliffs. The roads through these gorges are at the bottom of the gorge. When driving from east to west, you will see different things than what you saw driving west to east. There are many lookouts you can drive or walk to, that give you panoramic views of the Causes (Causse in French) (see description below), and the canyons – don’t miss these lookouts. There are also many medieval villages & castle ruins scattered here & there. You will take a lot of pictures. The roads are excellent, and often include spots to pull off to the side of the road so you can slowly enjoy the scenery.

Here are some geography terms.
1. Gorges/Canyons. These are obviously the gorges & canyons "cut out" by rivers. Unlike many gorges in other areas in France (Verdon/Ardeche), in the Gorges du Tarn region you can actually drive a car along the base of the gorge rock walls next to the river, and encounter medieval villages, castles, views across the river, restaurants/hotels - in addition to the panoramic views from above the gorge. I think views of gorges are much more interesting from the base of the gorge, than from above the gorge.

2. Causses. This is the (usually) flat plateau above and between the gorges. For example, the Causse Mejean is between the Gorges du Tarn & the Gorges de la Jonte. The Causse Noire is between the Jonte & Canyon de la Dourbie. These causses are quite arid and sparsely populated. They remind me of the Central California valleys - lots of "dried grass" in the summer/fall months. We didn't find them to be very interesting - but driving across them will consume less travel time then driving through the gorges.

3. Cevannas. This is the mountain range and national park that surrounds the Gorges du Tarn area - mainly the eastern section of the Gorges du Tarn. We took several drives into the Cevannes mountains. The Corniche de Cevannes* and the D907/D996 between Florac and Meyrueis are both quite scenic.

4. Aven/Grotte. These are the caves with stalactites & stalagmites. The four "biggies" in this area are Aven Armand***, Grotte de Dargilan**+, Grotte de Clamouse***, and Grotte de Demoiselles***. An Aven is a sink hole - usually one large cavern. A Grotte is normally a series of caves carved out by rivers. On our 2015 trip, we visited Clamouse on Saturday, Aven Armand on Monday, and Dargilan on Tuesday. Each cave had some elements that were unique to only that cave. We especially liked the 107 meter "petrified waterfall" in Dargilan - the largest "wall" of "waterfall/curtains" in Europe. Both this wall and the magnificent "clocher" are on the "lower" level of Dargilan in the latter part of the tour. Also, Dargilan has astonishing views of the Gorges de la Jonte from the Belvedere near the ticket office. This recent trip was our second visit to Aven Armand, Clamouse, and Dargilan - prior visits were in the late 1990s. We've visited Demoiselles twice - once in the 90s & again in about 2002.


Visiting the scenery and sites in the Gorges du Tarn*** area

My wife & I spent 2 weeks in this region in early July 2015. We spent one week at the east end of the Gorges du Tarn in Quezac, and one week near the west end - almost directly under the Millau Bridge. The section of the Gorges du Tarn you'll want to explore the most thoroughly, is between Ispagnac and Le Rozier. Other sections along the Tarn river are not nearly as dramatic as the Ispagnac/Le Rozier section. Our gite was directly on the Tarn River when we stayed in Quezac, so we would often just "head out" and drive along the Gorge at different times of the day so that we could experience different sun exposures on the breathtaking multi-colored cliffs, castles, and medieval villages. The Gorges du Tarn pretty much runs east to west from Ispagnac to St Hilaire (St Hilaire is between La Malenee & Les Vignes). Then it runs north to south from St Hilaire to Le Rozier. I think the most scenic section with the most dramatic rock formations is at the west end of the gorge between La Rozier and La Malene. This La Rozier/La Malene section mostly runs north & south, and because the road is on the west side of the Tarn river, the best time to visit this section of the Gorge is in the mid to late afternoon when the sun is fully illuminating the cliffs. In the morning, this section is mostly hidden by shadows and is not nearly as dramatic as it is in the mid/late afternoon. The best time of day to visit the section of the Gorge that runs east to west (between St Hilaire & Ispagnac) is in the morning when driving west, and in the afternoon when driving east - because the sun will be behind you and shining on the cliffs. There is a very dramatic view of the small village of Castelbouc from the "lookout" (well marked). Don't miss the ruin of the chateau looming over the village, if you are fascinated with ruins, as my wife is. However, the village has the sun shining on it only in the morning - so that's the best time of day to visit the area between Ste Enimie and Ispagnac to appreciate this view of the village. My wife took lots of pictures of this scene. When we drove by this "lookout" in the afternoon and witnessed many tourists stopping to view this scene, we often felt like shouting out "the views are better in the morning".

The Gorges de la Jonte** also runs east/west - so a morning drive heading west and an afternoon drive heading east is best. There is a dramatic view of this gorge from the ticket office at the Grotte de Dargilan. This view is best in the morning.

The Canyon de la Dourbie** is best mid-day or in the afternoon when the sun is shining on the remarkable village of Cantobre* My wife took lots of pictures from the access road.

Here are some sites not to miss on the Tarn Gorge:
1. Ispagnac+ Northeast end of the Tarn. Very appealing "practical" town with a smallish town square. There is a large Romanesque church, which is worth a visit. To the right as you enter, you can punch a button to get an “audio” guide from speakers in the church. Also, lights focus on the various things described in the audio.
2. Quezac. Stop & explore if you are planning on visiting the gorges area for more than 2 full days. Drive over the Tarn River on the 1-lane narrow 14th Century bridge. Don't park the car when you get near town - instead turn right when the road sign instructs you to do so, & then follow the signs to a B&B by turning left at the fence, then left again to the side of a church. Park the car near the church, visit the church, then walk through town. When you have finished with your visit, drive around the church, take the acute left turn, then follow the signs out of town.
3. Castelbouc* Old castle ruins with a small village at it’s base. Park the car along the road & try to limit your pictures to only 10. This is best viewed in the morning
4. Chateau de Prades. Lovely chateau in an attractive setting. Not open for visits
5. Ste Enimie* This is probably the only village worth spending some time in, and it’s classified as one of TMBVoF. It’s a great village to explore the nook & crannies. There are several places where you can get a bite to eat or pick up a sandwich to eat on the run. However, on our '15 visit, it seemed that Ste Enimie was more "touristy" with more "trinket" shops than we remembered from past visits. Restaurants didn't look too interesting either.
6. Cross the river at Ste Enimie & take the D986 south. Drive for a while & you will be rewarded with a fantastic view of the Gorges du Tarn, looking down on the village of St Chely du Tarn and the Cirque de St Chely*. Retrace the route back to Ste Enimie.
7. St Chely du Tarn+. Drive into the village, admire the waterfall on the way in, and walk around the village. There are a couple of cafes for lunch or a coffee/coke break. In '15 we actually enjoyed St Chely more than Ste Enimie - less touristy and a beautiful setting.

8. Chateau de la Caze* If you are not staying here, at least explore the chateau as much as they will let you. We had a fabulous dinner there in '15.
9. Haute Rive - village & chateau view
10. Les Detroits**
11. Point Sublime***
12. North/south run of the Gorge***
13. Le Rozier - it seemed a little touristy - so we've never visited this village on foot.

Here are three "outings" you can follow to explore "the best" of the Gorges du Tarn region.

1. Around 3:30 PM, get to Le Rozier . Drive along this lovely section of the Gorges du Tarn*** to St Hilaire. Do a U-turn at St Hilaire and drive back to Les Vignes. Look for the signs to Pt Sublime at Les Vignes, and take the switchback roads west, then the D46 north to admire the views of the Gorges du Tarn from Point Sublime***. Return to Les Vignes and back to le Rozier along the Gorges du Tarn. This outing should take about 2 hrs from Le Rozier.

2. Around noon, get to Le Rozier and then drive along the Gorges de la Jonte** until you get to Meyrueis. Then follow the signs to Grotte de Dargilan**+ for a visit. Admire the views of the Gorges de la Jonte from the ticket office. The Dargilan tour is about 1 1/2 hrs. Return to the hotel in Ste Enimie/Ch Caze by driving on the D986 over the Causse Mejean, or to Le Rozier along the Gorges de la Jonte.

3. In the morning (for views with the sun in the best position) drive to Les Vignes and take the D16 east of Les Vignes up to the Causse Mejean. There are fantastic views from the D16 up to the Causse. Drive to Roc de Hortous** for even more views of the Gorges du Tarn. Then take the D16 east to the D986 & head north on the D986 towards Ste Enimie - but only go as far as the "view" icon (on the Michelin map) - slightly southeast of Cirque du St Chely* & the town of St Chely du Tarn+. Admire these fantastic views++. Do not descend to Ste Enimie or to the Tarn River road. Instead, do a U-turn at the viewing point on the D986 (fast road) and go to Aven Armand*** for a visit. It closes for lunch (except July & Aug), and tours are on the 3/4 hour. The tour is about 1 hr. Return to the hotel using the same route you used in #2 above. You'll see the views from D16 again - but with a different sun perspective.

The Roc de Serre**- is close to the Roc de Hortous, but it requires some walking and navigating to get there. The sign at the place where you park your car says it is a 10 min walk to the Roc. The Michelin guide says it is a 15 min walk there. I walk fast & it took me 15 mins to walk to the Roc. It took my wife 20 mins. There is initially a paved road to walk on, then dirt, then a few rocks at the end. Veer to the right at the two "Ys" you'll encounter along the way. If you are "short on time" - skip this walk/view.

Additional destinations
Severac le Chateau*. This is a very interesting medieval village. Mass tourism has not discovered it yet. Park "below" the medieval village and get a walking itinerary from the tourist office there. The castle ruins (some "restoration" in progress in '15) looms over the town. Only my wife went there (loves ruins) and felt it was worth seeing - plus views across the countryside

Millau*
We actually enjoyed Millau more than we thought we would. It is the most interesting "city" in the Gorges du Tarn region, IMO. Follow the walking itinerary in the Michelin Green guide - except just stay in the "old town" section and don't walk along Quai de la Tanneire or go to Ganterie Causse (except if this place interests you). Make sure you also see the fountain and the shops in the Pl du Mandarous area. The Les Halles market is open Thurs to Sat. until around 1 pm.

Millau Viaduct ***
My wife was fascinated with this bridge. I was slightly less fascinated. There is a free visitor information center off the D992 roundabout directly under the viaduct, which provides some "down under" views of the viaduct. If you continue north on the access road to the visitor information center, and drive over the Tarn River and then go west, you will drive to the picturesque perched village of Peyre*. Parking is difficult, so we didn't visit it on foot. There is also an autoroute "aire" (rest stop) which offers walking access to a lookout and provides yet other views. This "aire" in only accessible when you drive north to south on the A75 over the Millau Viaduct.




Ste Eulalie de Cernon+. Get a walking itinerary from the tourist office. Visit this interesting medieval village. It's about a 30 min visit. The D999 between St Rome de Cernon and the road that branches off the D999 for the #46 exit off the A75, is quite picturesque.

Do Not Include:
Visit to a Roquefort cheese cave.
We've done the Societe tour twice - and found it "hokey" and tedious. Unless you are huge fans of Roquefort cheese - skip it. My wife, however, enjoyed driving past all the cheese shops. The town of Roquefort itself is kinda plain.

Stu Dudley

Thanks to you both.

I've noted Stu's observation that the Chaos de Montpellier le Vieux isn't for those who have trouble clambering over rocks and boulders; that unfortunately includes me (knee trouble). I notice that you did apparently like La Couvertoirade, which has been on my radar for years. I"ll look into Cantobre, of which I've never heard.

Nice that you recommend le Chateau de Creissels for dinner--that's where we're staying, on the recommendation of a friend, and I imagine for the one night we'll just have dinner there. Nice to have a second recommendation.

I haven't had time to check out St. Cirq's ideas, but I certainly will.

Actually, we had my wife's birthday dinner at Chateau de Creissels.

Stu Dudley

I'm thinking that to see the most interesting parts of the gorge would mean a lot of extra driving on top of the three hours from Aix to Creissels. Since we're heading to the Lot for almost two weeks, I'm inclined not to do it, even though I've looked at some photos and it's certainly spectacular; I think we'll get to see some lovely scenery in the Lot, not that it's comparable, and we're village people (ahem).

I had read about Peyre, and we'll try to get over there; it sounds easy. Is it worth it to take the hour or so to drive down to La Couvertoirade, or should we just hang out in Millau and environs, maybe head over to St. Affrique (the other places recommended by St. Cirq are all quite a long drive from Millau)? I don't know why I'm so fascinated by La C, but I am--sue me. I like that it seems unspoiled and unprettied up--sometimes I think if I see one more geranium I'll scream.