Not counting the churches in the Vatican, what is your favorite church in Rome and why? I don't think I could tire of wandering into churches, but my kids have a definite limit, so I need to narrow the options a bit.

If it's for the kids, take them to the churches with the huge Caravaggios: San Luigi dei Francesi, Sant'Agostino and Santa Maria del Popolo. (San Luigi and Sant'Agostino are quite close to each other and to Piazza Navona. Santa Maria del Popolo is on Piazza del Popolo.)

Will they appreciate Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Teresa in Santa Maria della Vittoria?

P.S. None of these are my favorites, but my favorites would not go over big with kids...

Or, again for the kids, Sant'Ignazio with the painted trompe-l'oeil dome.

I like the relatively small but brilliantly beautiful church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, with its sparkling mosaics, and that might be a change of pace. In addition, there is a lovely piazza right outside where you can relax after.

And don't forget the Pantheon is actually a church. Surely your children will want to see that.

Presumably the sheer scale of San Pietro will impress them, but it ought to count as at least six churches and can be tiring to really explore.

The first time I went to Rome seeing Bernini's Agony of St. Teresa was actually on the top of my list of things to see in all of Rome, I am so fond of Bernini. But I found it big disappointment. Also, it's sexual suggestiveness might pose some awkwardness unless your kids are much to young to pick up on it.

As much as I like art -- and just about the only reason I go to Rome is to look at art -- even I tire of church visiting. One has to be quiet and tiptoe, you have to crane your neck to see the ceiling frescoes. One church every other day is enough for me and when the weather is nice, I'd rather run around the ruins and enjoy the piazzas.

To clarify, no, it's not for the kids. I need to narrow my own list of "must sees" since I know they can't tolerate more than one or two a day.

As for the sexual suggestiveness of St. Teresa, no problem...they are 15, 13 and 10 and I think it would lead to some pretty interesting discussions, especially since we are Christian but not Catholic.

How old are the kids?

Like Eloise, I have favorites (and lots of them) that wouldn't necessarily be big with kids, but here are a few other suggestions for kids:

San Clemente--Fascinating for anybody, but the kids might especially like the ancient underground level.

Santa Maria Maggiore--Huge, impressive mosaics.

Santa Maria Sopra Minerva -- Bright and colorful (thanks to over-restoration in the 19th century). The Filippino Lippi frescoes in the Carafa Chapel are excellent, though not necessarily child-attracting, but for the kids there's Bernini's entertaining staute of an elephant and obelisk in the piazza in front of the church.

Sorry, we cross-posted. I see now that the kids are older than I thought when making suggestions.

All right, my own favorites:

Baroque churches:

San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane (and its tiny cloister) by Borromini and, a few hundred steps away, Bernini's Sant'Andrea al Quirinale, also small, but very, very diffrent.

I probably prefer Borromini's octagonal Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza, but it's not always open; you can try to tip the caretaker of the Palazzo della Sapienza.

Early Christian churches:

Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura, with Byzantine-style mosaics, and immediately behind it, Santa Costanza, probably one of the earliest churches in Rome; the mosaics in the vaulted corridor of the circular church are a melding of Christian and pagan motifs.

Also Santa Sabina on the Aventine Hill. It's only a few hundred steps from the famous keyhole of the green gates to the garden of the Cavalieri di Malta, through which one sees the dome of St. Peter's Basilica perfectly framed between the rows of trees in the garden.

sexual suggestiveness Bernini's ST. Theresa ? First time in my life I hear such a thing...she was a mystic..maybe I'm too naive but..I cannot see anything sexual in that sculpture..

Kenderina,

I suppose you should be complimented on your pure-mindedness, but ever since the statue was made, churchmen and scholars have noted and discussed - at great length! - its sexual suggestiveness.

The argument can and has been made that the statue is a literal representation in marble of something said by St. Teresa herself, but it does not and cannot deny the sexuality of the statue.

ttt

Here in Spain some scholars said that mystics were into drugs to reach ecstasis.. but they are speculating..just like any other people None of them was there to see it Still, the actual statue doesn't say anything sexual to me..
I've remembered now a metaphysical poet wrote a poem about these statue...
Going to look for it

Rome has some truly lovely churches, so this is a tough question. My favorite is probably Santa Maria in Trastevere. I just loved all the gold overlay. I also liked Santa Maria Maggiori and and Santa Maria degli Angeli, in the Baths of Diocletian. All three are just extraordinary, although most churches in Rome are.

Tracy

Tracy

My faves other than the Vatican include San Clemente and St. Peter's In Chains.

But I like them all!

My entire family loves to go in churches... My favorite is always that church you pass... never heard of... looks pretty shaky... step in side and get blown away. This happened in Rome - unfortunately I can't remember the name of the church. But kids love that element of surprise and adventure.

julie_Colorado, I plan to have a couple of "destination" churches. But the way I "sneak" other churches onto the agenda is to plan our "big" (non-church) destination of the day, then check to see what churches are on the way to where we are "really" going. That method doesn't give me time to fully appreciate most of them, but heck, I'd rather go in for 10 minutes than not at all.

missypie,

Then tell us where you are "really" going and perhaps we help edit the choices you will have en route.

Missy:

May I suggest that you also visit the synagogue in the former Jewish ghetto.

I visit churches in every city and country, but we also try to visit a mosque and a synagogue here and there, and a buddhist temple where there is one.
For your children, this could give them some sense that there are many religions in the world aside from Christianity. Call it an ecumenical educational exercise. The Jewish presence in early and later Rome was one of importance and respect..one thing you will see is the necessary armed guard in front and back of the synagogue. It's located just across from Isola Tiburina, next to the Teatro di Marcello ruins. There are many tours daily except Saturday. There is a fee and the tour is guided.

Strangely, as long as I've been on the Fodor board I have never seen mention of this Roman "sinagoga"...yet it is a very large building (19th century) and hard to miss.

Stu T.

kenderina--

I'm with Eloise on this: The ecstasy of Bernini's St. Teresa looks particularly, well, <i>ecstatic</i>. But the wonder of the sculpture is that the effect is different from different angles: Look at it one way, and see a compassionate look on the angel's face, while the saint swoons in helpless, pious rapture. Move over a few inches and stand on tiptoe, and now the angel's smile seems knowing and a bit cruel, while Teresa's swoon looks like something one doesn't associate with churches.

I read once that Bernini made his portrayal as open to different interpretations as it is because St. Teresa's own words could be taken in more than one way. I admit that I've read her &quot;golden arrow&quot; description only once, only in translation, and only a long time ago, but it seems that her words could be taken in a racy way by one who was so inclined.

Or maybe Bernini understood only too well how to 'zazz up the Counter-Reformation.