What do you wish someone had told you about Tuscany?
Sep 17th, 2012, 07:58 AM
#21
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Here's what we saw in Tuscany in October:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p449676480
Not all lush and verdant... but not bad. Really.
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p449676480
Not all lush and verdant... but not bad. Really.
Sep 17th, 2012, 09:09 AM
#22
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Ah, here was our view from our Agriturismo. I don't think that could be termed scenic by really anyone. But the towns were still cute. http://www.markandmonica.com/Photos/...86_edited.html
Sep 18th, 2012, 12:41 PM
#23
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Google, GPS and maps will give you route and road names. Good luck finding them as you travel off the main roads. Sometimes the directional signs will be posted a couple of turns before the real turn. October in italy can be beautiful but no, no poppies - try June for those. I too have a poppy picture that sends me back. You may have rain in October, but you'll have rainbows galore! Cool - even cold - nights, but mild days. Have a great time.
Sep 18th, 2012, 01:09 PM
#25
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I have never heard of any tourist getting sick eating mushrooms in Italy that were picked by Italians. At the markets, they even have officials who inspect them.
I don't know why someone would raise this false fear, unless they are suggesting that a tourist shouldn't pick wild mushrooms themselves and eat them -- but that is just common sense!
I don't know why someone would raise this false fear, unless they are suggesting that a tourist shouldn't pick wild mushrooms themselves and eat them -- but that is just common sense!
Sep 18th, 2012, 01:18 PM
#26
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Well, pizzo, now you have. I had classic wild mushroom/bread soup in a village restaurant about 8 years ago and was violently ill for 24 hours. A friend who was dining with me had one bite of my soup and had a mild version of my reaction. S--- happens, literally.
Sep 18th, 2012, 02:17 PM
#28
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That Tuscan bread does not contain salt and thus tastes very different from what you might expect. Of course, saltless bread goes great with all the wonderful cured meats (salumi) available there, so enjoy it in sandwiches.
Sep 19th, 2012, 03:29 AM
#29
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Why do you think it was the mushrooms? Most people don't survive eating poison mushrooms. Maybe you just had a case of food poisoning from some other protein in the soup that went bad.
Even if you believe you had poisonous wild mushroom soup in Tuscany, how could a visitor "be careful where you eat mushrooms during wild mushroom-picking season" other than not eating them at all? How would somebody know any particular restaurant was unsafe? Most people go to rural Tuscany to visit villages. Are you saying they should only eat wild mushrooms in cities?
Even if you believe you had poisonous wild mushroom soup in Tuscany, how could a visitor "be careful where you eat mushrooms during wild mushroom-picking season" other than not eating them at all? How would somebody know any particular restaurant was unsafe? Most people go to rural Tuscany to visit villages. Are you saying they should only eat wild mushrooms in cities?
Sep 19th, 2012, 04:11 AM
#32
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Pizzocchieri:
Actually, the salt-less pane toscano is often used for sandwiches (that Tuscans eat frequently) as it does not interfere with the flavour of whatever is filling it. The prosciutto made in Tuscany is already very salty, for example. Same goes for many cheeses.
That being said, I do admit that I prefer to have my sandwiches on a square of fresh schiacciata.
It is also used as the base for crostini for the same reason. You’ll also find it in the bread basket to have during your meal (what better to use to do the “scarpetta” – wipe your plate clean).
Actually, the salt-less pane toscano is often used for sandwiches (that Tuscans eat frequently) as it does not interfere with the flavour of whatever is filling it. The prosciutto made in Tuscany is already very salty, for example. Same goes for many cheeses.
That being said, I do admit that I prefer to have my sandwiches on a square of fresh schiacciata.
It is also used as the base for crostini for the same reason. You’ll also find it in the bread basket to have during your meal (what better to use to do the “scarpetta” – wipe your plate clean).
Sep 19th, 2012, 04:33 AM
#33
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I've been to Tuscany a number of times, but just returned from a week staying in Siena (in an apartment right on the Campo). So here are the things that really surprised me:
I've never been a huge fan of Florence -- for one thing because it's always clogged with tourists -- just too crowded. So I was shocked to take a picture in Piazza Signori at about 2 PM a week ago when it was almost empty! The whole town was surprisingly less busy than I've ever seen it. But just a few days before arriving in Siena, I was surprised to see that Siena is now #10 of "cities of the world to visit" in the new Travel and Leisure reader's poll. Well, sure enough, Siena was WAY busier than I've ever seen it before! The quiet little city I expected, particularly at night, was really very busy!
No one warned me that although the Palio had been some two weeks earlier, the celebrations continue. Every single night for the entire week at 1 AM there was a parade with flags and MANY drums and chanters all the way around the Campo -- literally under our windows. The first night we thought it was kind of neat -- local color. The second night it was less charming. By the 7th night we just wished they'd shut the hell up and quit the celebrating. I mentioned it to our "landlady" who said "that's the way it is in the summer in Siena". Really? All summer? I wish we had known, but still we probably would have rented that apartment for the view alone!
http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p490040
I've never been a huge fan of Florence -- for one thing because it's always clogged with tourists -- just too crowded. So I was shocked to take a picture in Piazza Signori at about 2 PM a week ago when it was almost empty! The whole town was surprisingly less busy than I've ever seen it. But just a few days before arriving in Siena, I was surprised to see that Siena is now #10 of "cities of the world to visit" in the new Travel and Leisure reader's poll. Well, sure enough, Siena was WAY busier than I've ever seen it before! The quiet little city I expected, particularly at night, was really very busy!
No one warned me that although the Palio had been some two weeks earlier, the celebrations continue. Every single night for the entire week at 1 AM there was a parade with flags and MANY drums and chanters all the way around the Campo -- literally under our windows. The first night we thought it was kind of neat -- local color. The second night it was less charming. By the 7th night we just wished they'd shut the hell up and quit the celebrating. I mentioned it to our "landlady" who said "that's the way it is in the summer in Siena". Really? All summer? I wish we had known, but still we probably would have rented that apartment for the view alone!
http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p490040
Sep 19th, 2012, 04:36 AM
#34
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Cathiejoetown,
It just seems so silly to raise this false fear about going to Tuscany in autumn. Why not just say what restaurant you ate at so others avoid that one particular restaurant? Like "I wish someone had told me not to eat at _________" -- ? That might be useful.
violoncellista,
I have seen Tuscans use their bread as a base for chopped tomatoes, or a garlic-oil rub, or mashed spleen, or yes, wipe their plates clean. You'll find that everywhere in Tuscany. But I don't see Tuscans piling cured meats and cheese between two slices of bread at the dinner table. Sure, you can buy a panini anywhere in Italy, but the point of salt-less Tuscan bread is not to make a meat or cheese sandwich.
It just seems so silly to raise this false fear about going to Tuscany in autumn. Why not just say what restaurant you ate at so others avoid that one particular restaurant? Like "I wish someone had told me not to eat at _________" -- ? That might be useful.
violoncellista,
I have seen Tuscans use their bread as a base for chopped tomatoes, or a garlic-oil rub, or mashed spleen, or yes, wipe their plates clean. You'll find that everywhere in Tuscany. But I don't see Tuscans piling cured meats and cheese between two slices of bread at the dinner table. Sure, you can buy a panini anywhere in Italy, but the point of salt-less Tuscan bread is not to make a meat or cheese sandwich.
Sep 19th, 2012, 04:47 AM
#36
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Tuscans eat and serve sandwiches to others - often open-faced. Pizzo, I note you are a new poster/member - it is interesting to have someone with such strong views join the board. Stimulates the discussion. Welcome.
Sep 19th, 2012, 04:48 AM
#37
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I don't remember the name of the restaurant or the tiny village. My comment was true but I didn't intend to (and doubt I did) create fear and loathing of Tuscan mushrooms.
I give the people on these forums more credit than to be afraid to go to Tuscany or to eat mushrooms there based on my remark.
It was, however, the worst case of food poisoning I have ever had.
I give the people on these forums more credit than to be afraid to go to Tuscany or to eat mushrooms there based on my remark.
It was, however, the worst case of food poisoning I have ever had.
Sep 19th, 2012, 04:57 AM
#38
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Sorry to hear that, Cathiejoetown. But I do think your unqualified remark could be taken by people on a message board like this the wrong way. I see questions all the time about the potability of the drinking water -- and actually, one needs to be careful (especially if one is pregnant) about eating some raw cheeses in Tuscany. People mainly come here with their travel anxieties.
violincellista,
You could persuade me that Tuscany proscuitto is made salty (where proscuitto di Parma isn't) just because Tuscan bread isn't. But I was only trying to make the point that Tuscans view bread as a cooking ingredient, and that is why it doesn't taste like the "eating" bread most people grow up on.
violincellista,
You could persuade me that Tuscany proscuitto is made salty (where proscuitto di Parma isn't) just because Tuscan bread isn't. But I was only trying to make the point that Tuscans view bread as a cooking ingredient, and that is why it doesn't taste like the "eating" bread most people grow up on.
Sep 19th, 2012, 05:06 AM
#40
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The "point" of the salt-less bread is to not take away from the flavour of whatever you happen to be pairing it with. This can include as part of a sandwich. Certainly not at a trattoria or an osteria as your main course, but you go to any vinaio for a glass of wine and a quick lunch/snack and you'll find that a panino (with prosciutto crudo and pecorino) on pane toscano is an option.
