Wet and cold Paris - Trip report
#1
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Joined: Jul 2003
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Wet and cold Paris - Trip report
Cheap(er) airline tickets to Paris in early March were too tempting to turn down, but I was a bit concerned before we left that our week would be miserable.
It was, and it wasn't.
The weather, with the exception of two stunning days, was forbidding. Cold, wet, and usually very windy. Europe, particularly the British Isles, were blasted with high winds while we were there, and we caught a bit of the blow ourselves.
Regardless, I am back home to tell you, Paris is Paris, regardless of the weather, and always worth doing.
We were in an apartment on rue Etienne Marcel, about 500 yards from the Metro station. Big plus, because were were on line 4, and found it to be one of the most convenient lines in the city. Its linkages with other lines made it perfect as a starting point, or, in the case of several outings, all the transportation we needed.
A day trip to Chartres was easy, with line 4 to the railroad station, and a quick zip southward. That day we escaped the weather a bit, getting out of the rain, but the wind still pulled umbrellas inside out.
Otherwise, we spent the week in museums, up the Eiffel Tower (great views and relatively smaller crowds, despite/because of, the cloudy weather) and in many wonderful little restaurants.
Observations from our experiences:
1. The French people were charming, and wait staff were always willing to try a bit of English to meet us halfway.
The French institutions who make such decisions apparently are determined to describe every item of interest ONLY in French. This I do not understand: France is an international cultural center, with visitors from around the world. Why are world renown art pieces, and other attractions only described in the native language? Is it to somehow reserve detail for residents? To me, the courteous thing would be to provide a bit of language accommodation for guests. Reaching out to visitors certainly was not a problem for the French people we encountered, but appears to be for the government....?
2. I remain convinced that apartments are more enjoyable than hotels, but know that not all apartments are what they are supposed to be. Last year we were in Paris in an apartment on rue St. Honore' and it provided everything -- especially guidance on grocers, restaurants, etc., in the area. This year's apartment advertised that it would provide the same, but did not -- not a scrap of paper to help us. The Wi-Fi also did not work, the glassware was the cheapest I've ever seen (we broke two glasses simply putting them down), and its furnishing were not quite up to what we expected. The same happens in hotels, of course, but usually you have an option to move elsewhere if your accommodations are not satisfactory.
3. You do not need a museum pass for your entire visit. Focus your museum visits over a couple of days to maximize the value of your pass. Plan the remainder of the time for area visits (i.e., Marais, Left Bank, walking, shopping, etc.) that do not involve a pass. Saves bunches of euros...
Unfortunately, I have to say this is it for me in Europe for a while until there is a bit more equity between the dollar and the pound and euro. I simply cannot afford it. Prices were stiff enough as is, but with the conversion, we got killed financially. I mean, an 8 oz. Pepsi for 3.50 euro -- or $5? Dinner was usually about $100 for a couple, lunches in the $65 - $75 range. Whoa!
I am not posting any of this to discourage people from visiting Paris. Quite the contrary, I consider it one of the most essential places to experience, and if you can, you should do it at least once in your lifetime.
I have to face reality, however. I have been to Paris a number of times, and I am retired. It, and much of Europe, is simply out of my price range.
C'est la vie. It was great while it lasted.
Jim
It was, and it wasn't.
The weather, with the exception of two stunning days, was forbidding. Cold, wet, and usually very windy. Europe, particularly the British Isles, were blasted with high winds while we were there, and we caught a bit of the blow ourselves.
Regardless, I am back home to tell you, Paris is Paris, regardless of the weather, and always worth doing.
We were in an apartment on rue Etienne Marcel, about 500 yards from the Metro station. Big plus, because were were on line 4, and found it to be one of the most convenient lines in the city. Its linkages with other lines made it perfect as a starting point, or, in the case of several outings, all the transportation we needed.
A day trip to Chartres was easy, with line 4 to the railroad station, and a quick zip southward. That day we escaped the weather a bit, getting out of the rain, but the wind still pulled umbrellas inside out.
Otherwise, we spent the week in museums, up the Eiffel Tower (great views and relatively smaller crowds, despite/because of, the cloudy weather) and in many wonderful little restaurants.
Observations from our experiences:
1. The French people were charming, and wait staff were always willing to try a bit of English to meet us halfway.
The French institutions who make such decisions apparently are determined to describe every item of interest ONLY in French. This I do not understand: France is an international cultural center, with visitors from around the world. Why are world renown art pieces, and other attractions only described in the native language? Is it to somehow reserve detail for residents? To me, the courteous thing would be to provide a bit of language accommodation for guests. Reaching out to visitors certainly was not a problem for the French people we encountered, but appears to be for the government....?
2. I remain convinced that apartments are more enjoyable than hotels, but know that not all apartments are what they are supposed to be. Last year we were in Paris in an apartment on rue St. Honore' and it provided everything -- especially guidance on grocers, restaurants, etc., in the area. This year's apartment advertised that it would provide the same, but did not -- not a scrap of paper to help us. The Wi-Fi also did not work, the glassware was the cheapest I've ever seen (we broke two glasses simply putting them down), and its furnishing were not quite up to what we expected. The same happens in hotels, of course, but usually you have an option to move elsewhere if your accommodations are not satisfactory.
3. You do not need a museum pass for your entire visit. Focus your museum visits over a couple of days to maximize the value of your pass. Plan the remainder of the time for area visits (i.e., Marais, Left Bank, walking, shopping, etc.) that do not involve a pass. Saves bunches of euros...
Unfortunately, I have to say this is it for me in Europe for a while until there is a bit more equity between the dollar and the pound and euro. I simply cannot afford it. Prices were stiff enough as is, but with the conversion, we got killed financially. I mean, an 8 oz. Pepsi for 3.50 euro -- or $5? Dinner was usually about $100 for a couple, lunches in the $65 - $75 range. Whoa!
I am not posting any of this to discourage people from visiting Paris. Quite the contrary, I consider it one of the most essential places to experience, and if you can, you should do it at least once in your lifetime.
I have to face reality, however. I have been to Paris a number of times, and I am retired. It, and much of Europe, is simply out of my price range.
C'est la vie. It was great while it lasted.
Jim
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
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Glad you managed to enjoy Paris.... of course I am interested in knowing where you ate meals, especially lunch, that approached $65...Did you dine primarily in restaurants? I can see dinners in a nice place easily hitting the $100 for two people (that's about 70&euro
. It can be done for less and also for quite a bit more! It doesn't sound like you offset dining expenses by fixing food in your apartment or 'picnics' (grocery store or market food).
. It can be done for less and also for quite a bit more! It doesn't sound like you offset dining expenses by fixing food in your apartment or 'picnics' (grocery store or market food).
#3
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Joined: Jul 2003
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Travelnut, indeed we could have reduced the cost of meals by using the apartment kitchen more. My measurement was against how we normally travel -- and that means ain't no cooking in the kitchen, if you get my drift.
Instead, we chose to do it the way we normally do, using restaurants, and usually having a glass of house wine or sharing a bottle with our traveling companions. Several nights we did grab food from the plentiful pastry shops, groceries, etc., and did eat in, but that was the exception, not the routine.
So, my decision to forgo Europe and wait for more financial parity is based on how much would it cost us to travel as we normally do. I recognize there are ways to do it cheaper, but we'd rather do more "vacation-style" dining than eat in.
Jim
Instead, we chose to do it the way we normally do, using restaurants, and usually having a glass of house wine or sharing a bottle with our traveling companions. Several nights we did grab food from the plentiful pastry shops, groceries, etc., and did eat in, but that was the exception, not the routine.
So, my decision to forgo Europe and wait for more financial parity is based on how much would it cost us to travel as we normally do. I recognize there are ways to do it cheaper, but we'd rather do more "vacation-style" dining than eat in.
Jim
#4
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,605
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I hear you..... I don't want to 'cook' on vacation either. My supervisor loves to take her 'Lifestyles of the xxxx Family' vacations. I said, 'you could go twice on what you spend if you did things my way'... she says 'but it's my <i>vacation</i>'!
#5
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 636
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I sympathize with your weather experience. We were in Paris last March (for the same reasons as you) and had miserable weather then too. But, of course, it's always worth it.
We're swapping our house for an apartment in Paris for 6 weeks this fall, which is the only reason we'll be able to afford to go back.
We're swapping our house for an apartment in Paris for 6 weeks this fall, which is the only reason we'll be able to afford to go back.
#7

Joined: Jan 2003
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JimF--
We visited Paris for 11 days in March two years ago, also staying in an apartment. It was our second visit to Paris (both in the winter), and while we had a great time, we vowed our next trip to Paris would be in better weather. Now, unless things improve financially for the dollar, who knows if we will ever see Paris again.
We were in apartments in Venice and Rome in the beginning of January this year. We too came back and said no more Europe for us unless the dollar improves. We primarily ate in our apartment because we just couldn't see paying restaurant or cafe or trattoria prices. When I commented on that here upon our return, I was chastised for my belief that for an American dining out in large European cities has just become way too expensive. You are 100% right. It is the devalued currency that makes this so expensive.
Let's just be glad we were able to make the visits we did. We at least have the memories.
We visited Paris for 11 days in March two years ago, also staying in an apartment. It was our second visit to Paris (both in the winter), and while we had a great time, we vowed our next trip to Paris would be in better weather. Now, unless things improve financially for the dollar, who knows if we will ever see Paris again.
We were in apartments in Venice and Rome in the beginning of January this year. We too came back and said no more Europe for us unless the dollar improves. We primarily ate in our apartment because we just couldn't see paying restaurant or cafe or trattoria prices. When I commented on that here upon our return, I was chastised for my belief that for an American dining out in large European cities has just become way too expensive. You are 100% right. It is the devalued currency that makes this so expensive.
Let's just be glad we were able to make the visits we did. We at least have the memories.
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#8

Joined: Nov 2005
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We are leaving for Paris May 2 and are renting an apt. as we did last year. The only thing we will do differently to save a bit is make coffee in the apt rather than buying a grand creme every day. I hope that does help. We keep wine, water, olives and cheeses in the apt but will eat out. We love Davoli on Rue Cler but buying serrano ham, pates, cheeses, olives and all the great stuff they sell there is not much cheaper than going out to lunch!
#9
Joined: Oct 2006
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Went to Paris at the end of November 2007. It was windy and rainy, too. But not all the time. Temp was in the 40's 50's F. Of course, we had a great time, anyway.
As far as the weak dollar is concerned - it's over to the Oregon coast for us this coming vacation. Europe will have to wait a while, sad to say.
As far as the weak dollar is concerned - it's over to the Oregon coast for us this coming vacation. Europe will have to wait a while, sad to say.
#10
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Joined: Jul 2003
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kenav, our trip to the Oregon coast a few years back still stands as one of the best travel experiences we have ever had. Wonderful food, sights, etc. Great place to visit.
Over on the USA pages, there is a lady named Scarlett who has lived in Portland for a few years now, who is a wonderful help should you need input. Look for Miz Scarlett. She knows travel.
Hope your visit is as good as ours was. As for us, perhaps Montreal? That'll have to be my French fix, I suppose...
Jim
Over on the USA pages, there is a lady named Scarlett who has lived in Portland for a few years now, who is a wonderful help should you need input. Look for Miz Scarlett. She knows travel.
Hope your visit is as good as ours was. As for us, perhaps Montreal? That'll have to be my French fix, I suppose...
Jim
#12
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Joined: Jul 2003
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mms, where else will Scarlett live! When she first helped me she was living in Florida, formerly on the East Coast, then to Oregon, and now South America!!
Thanks for advising. Perhaps I'll hear from her again from her new digs.
Jim
Thanks for advising. Perhaps I'll hear from her again from her new digs.
Jim
#13
Joined: Oct 2004
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Jim, I've not noticed any museums in the US describe 'items of interest' in anything but English regardless of the number of foreign tourists that visit but some now at least provide maps and guides in a few languages.
Now, if the French decided to accommodate the language needs of their land locked neighbors would translations into Spanish, German, Italian and Dutch help you? Perhaps, taking along a good guidebook is the best solution.
Was your apartment rental with a different company this time?
Now, if the French decided to accommodate the language needs of their land locked neighbors would translations into Spanish, German, Italian and Dutch help you? Perhaps, taking along a good guidebook is the best solution.
Was your apartment rental with a different company this time?
#14
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Joined: Jul 2003
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highflyer, point well taken. My perspective was, admittedly, rather selfish: I desperately wanted to know more of what was written in French on very large displays. Looking around, I noted that most of the people around me were having similar informational difficulties. The answer, of course, was to rent an audio guide in English, which we did -- often.
My suggestion is a posting that includes more than just the native tongue -- for both France and the U.S. That has been increasingly done here in the Southwest, adding Spanish, but again, that is more a reflection of the changing local population mix, rather than tourist traffic.
As for the apartment agency, I used the same one I used before: Vacation in Paris. They are excellent. But I'd give the apartments an A on the 2007 residence, and a C-plus on this one.
Jim
My suggestion is a posting that includes more than just the native tongue -- for both France and the U.S. That has been increasingly done here in the Southwest, adding Spanish, but again, that is more a reflection of the changing local population mix, rather than tourist traffic.
As for the apartment agency, I used the same one I used before: Vacation in Paris. They are excellent. But I'd give the apartments an A on the 2007 residence, and a C-plus on this one.
Jim
#17
Joined: Feb 2004
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JimF, I know what you mean about no English in the museums considering English really is the "lingua franca". I found it particularly amusing two years ago when I saw the exhibit at the Grand Palais of Henri Rosseau (sp). Most of his works are not French owned as he wasn't appreciated by other than his artist contemporaries. Many (most) of the works were on loan from the US (with several from UK and Canada). It's the only time I've ever seen English placards. And it was fun overhearing the exclamations of the French patrons (ahh, Toledo, ohh New York, Cinncinatti).
#18
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Kenav, we met two other couples for four days and stayed at the Vintage Plaza. They had to leave, and my wife and I moved to the Governor Hotel for two nights. Would not have relocated except could not get the good rates over the weekend at the Vintage Plaza.
For the last three nights, we stayed in the Youngberg Hill B&B, down in McMinnville.
All of these were delightful, for different reasons. The varied accommodations, Portland and its attractions, Oregon, plus the low humidity and relatively cool temperatures (we live in Houston) just added up to a fantastic trip.
I would not hesitate to re-book any of these.
Hope this helps.
Jim
For the last three nights, we stayed in the Youngberg Hill B&B, down in McMinnville.
All of these were delightful, for different reasons. The varied accommodations, Portland and its attractions, Oregon, plus the low humidity and relatively cool temperatures (we live in Houston) just added up to a fantastic trip.
I would not hesitate to re-book any of these.
Hope this helps.
Jim
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We used to enjoy shopping and lunches together here in Portland.

