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Old Dec 27th, 2016, 11:16 AM
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The Christmas markets you visited, especially in Colmar, look and sound very festive and fun. Did you visit the markets in Basel too in between your connection? We've managed to visit several markets over Thanksgiving in the past couple of years but have not yet experienced the ones in France and Germany.
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Old Dec 27th, 2016, 12:33 PM
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tripplanner -

We made a day trip to Basel from Feiburg to visit the markets - that chapter coming up soon. In my experience, the German and French markets are a whole lot more festive, crowded and full on than the Swiss markets.

Ingo -

We suspected the problem was on the French side, but we encountered several delays with German trains this year - there seemed to be a lot of railway work going on.
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Old Dec 27th, 2016, 12:42 PM
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I like the Colmar market and we too had lunch at Schwendi on our visit. It snowed during our visit to the market, which really added to the atmosphere

General note: aside from the market, the large Roche Bobois store in the old part of Colmar, near the market, is in a gorgeous old building and is fun to poke around. It's been featured in magazines and on the RB catalog cover more than once. Worth a peek for anyone who likes interior design. http://www.roche-bobois.com/en-PT/showrooms/colmar
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Old Dec 27th, 2016, 12:45 PM
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My favorite part of Colmar was the huge indoor food market - unfortunately, we couldn't find it this year, probably buried under all those people.
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Old Dec 28th, 2016, 02:24 AM
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We suspected the problem was on the French side, but we encountered several delays with German trains this year - there seemed to be a lot of railway work going on.>>

Ah - shades of the "Roestigraben"! [the mythical border between the french and german sides of Switzerland where one side is supposedly more efficient than the other!]

Shame you missed the for market in Colmar, Mel, but it sounds as if you made up for it.
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Old Dec 30th, 2016, 02:30 PM
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Dec 11 –

We’d talked about going to Strasbourg, France, but for various reasons we decided against it, choosing to spend the day in Freiburg instead.

As it was Sunday, the streets were practically deserted. Quite a contrast from the previous few days.

We were the first customers at Hausbrauerei Feierling, where we spent several hours, Rick announcing on his return from the loo that someone had ‘chundered in the bog between the u-rhine-alls’. I'd forgotten how much I missed these two characters.

We wandered the Christmas market, introduced Deb to Kartoffelpuffer, of which she enthusiastically approved, and then retreated to our respective hotels to have a ‘kip’.

Dinner that night was at Casa Nova, an Italian joint just around the corner from our hotel – decent food, good service.

After dinner we parted ways - Rick and Deb were off to the Basel Airport the following day.

Note: Our various meals with Rick and Deb ran about 80 Euro for the four of us, including plentiful drinks.

Not a single photo today, how did that happen?
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Old Jan 2nd, 2017, 12:21 PM
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Dec 12 –

Bill and I walked to the railway station and bought tickets to Basel – 30 Euro return for two. We’d not yet experienced ‘Switzerland’s Largest Christmas Market’, so we figured it was high time we did.

The train from Freiburg to Basel Bad left 30 minutes late, causing us to miss our connection, but we finally arrived, surprised at how much colder it was than in Freiburg, and instantly regretting that we’d not worn an extra layer.

As we wandered the station looking for an information center, we came across a large door marked “France”. Basel is a Dreiländereck, a Tripoint, where three countries meet, in this case, Switzerland, France and Germany. Basel SBB Railway Station is Europe’s busiest international border station, and is aligned with regional service to each of these countries.

Map in hand we set out to explore, first having to dodge a large number of green trams that seemed headed in every which direction. We walked through a large park and on to the Old Town, where were explored the Munster, as well as the Munsterplatz and the Barfusserplatz Christmas Markets. Neither market was crowded; we had plenty of elbow space as we wandered the tree lined passageways and sampled the gluhwein (more expensive than in Freiburg at 5 CHF per mug, plus 5 CHF per mug deposit, but good).

We love raclette, but have never seen any offered at a Christmas market before, so it was impossible to resist the kiosk selling Swiss raclette served with potatoes, pickled onions and gherkins, and even more impossible to resist taking a photograph of the goings-on behind the counter.

We also sampled some sort of donut, me thinking it might be the Baumkuchen or Baumstrezel I’d heard about here on Fodor’s, but alas this was just a cold donut filled with hazelnut chocolate filling, disappointing and not worth the calories.

https://www.basel.com/en/Christmas-i...ristmas-Market

We eventually worked our way over the Mittlere Brucke (Middle Bridge) - originally built in 1226 and one of the oldest Rhine crossings between Lake Constance and the North Sea – to Klein Basel on the right bank, and sought out Claraplatz, which I’d read also had a small Christmas Market. Instead we found an entertainment and shopping district with a few scattered kiosks selling produce and gluhwein, so we’re not sure if we were in the right place or not, but it made for a nice walk and some nice river views (sections of the bridge were covered with those ubiquitous love locks).

On the walk back, we heard a ruckus and turned to see an old man fall onto the tram tracks, just as a tram was passing – the tram driver braked and honked his horn, many people ran to help, others gasped, but the man waved everyone off and indicated that he was fine. Scary.

We had trouble finding the railway station on our return, despite having a map and following the signs, which all seemed to contradict one another. It felt as if we’d walked 20 miles on cobblestones, and we were a bit worn out.

On the return to Freiburg the SBB (Swiss train) left right on time, but the DB (German train) was late again – we sat onboard for 15 minutes at Basel Bad – an announcement was made in German – no one moved, so we assumed it was an explanation of the delay – a short time later there was another announcement - suddenly most passengers got up and exited the train in a hurry – like sheep, we followed. Several passengers began running as they approached the underpass, we followed at a slower pace, not knowing if we’d be boarding a train to Freiburg or not. After the mad rush, the very full train sat for another few minutes, then finally pulled out – and fortunately for us, it was headed to Freiburg.

Back in Freiburg, we dodged a thousand bicyclists while searching for The Indian Curry House on Guntramstrasse, which I’d run across in my research. The place is tiny – we felt lucky to get a table. It was also excellent, one of the best meals we’d had so far – two curries, rice, naan and sparkling water - 33.50 Euro. Wunderbar.

Photos:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...h/31940835661/
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Old Jan 2nd, 2017, 12:41 PM
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Great photos! I see they also have Baumstriezel (Trdelnik), a Czech specialty. Basel advertised big time in Dresden for their Christmas market, btw. I doubt many Dresdners went there.

Why did you always go through Basel SBB, didn't get off/on the regional train in Basel Bad(ischer Bahnhof)? Would have saved you the change. It was quite a backtracking, I'd say.

I am enjoying your trip report, am still in the Christmas mood
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Old Jan 2nd, 2017, 02:17 PM
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Hi Ingo -

I'm not sure I understand your question.

We went from Freiburg to Basel Bad, then changed trains to Basel SBB.

Am I missing something?
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Old Jan 2nd, 2017, 03:05 PM
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Dec 13 –

It was time to leave Freiburg and the Hotel Minerva’s wonderful breakfast. We caught the 9:56 am train to Karlsruhe and connected to a train to Nuremberg – 4.5 hours total, both ICE (Inter-City Express, high speed trains).

We’d purchased reduced price tickets online a few weeks prior to leaving home – 44 Euro for both, intentionally choosing a route with few train changes, as luggage on crowded trains can be a PITA.

The railway station in Freiburg was quite busy. We never make train reservations and luckily we had no trouble with seating or luggage storage. And it left on time!

Our weather thus far had been surprisingly nice, but gloom awaited us in Nuremberg. The Hauptbahnhof was extremely busy...and a wee bit confusing - we'd only been here once before, and only for a day.

As we studied the U-Bahn map trying to figure out which direction we needed to go to reach Rothenbergerstrasse, a kind woman offered her help. She didn’t speak English, but between the three of us we somehow figured out that we needed to go in the opposite direction of the Flughafen.

It took us awhile to sort out which exit to take from the station, and then a bit of wandering to find the right street - I say ‘we’ but it was all Bill, I’m pretty useless when it comes to navigating. We eventually found the apartment, which turned out to be conveniently located, about a seven minute walk from Rothenbergerstrasse station.

I’d found the apartment on VRBO - the owner had agreed to take cash upon arrival in lieu of a bank transfer, which sealed the deal (460 Euro for five nights).

Before I booked, I’d asked here on Fodor’s for thoughts regarding the apartment’s location and was advised by sla019 that ‘Gostenhof has a reputation as the Nuremberg Bronx’. More on that later.

https://www.vrbo.com/2070648ha?unitId=2558203

We were met at the apartment by Stephanie, who went over the map with us, pointed out grocery stores, and advised us to avoid walking to Old Town via the prostitute zone. Hmmmmmm.

While the exterior of the ‘turn of the century’ apartment building was a bit uninviting with its graffiti covered door, the apartment itself was lovely – two bedrooms - massive bathroom with washer and dryer and huge shower - well equipped kitchen with basic, and not-so-basic supplies (beer, Jagermeister and brandy!) - blindingly white – spotlessly clean – spacious – comfortable - and surprisingly quiet considering it’s smack dab in the city, surrounded chock-a-block by other apartments - the shutters were a godsend – they shut out the city noise and light.

We walked to Lidl to pick up breakfast provisions – downright cheap compared to Switzerland!

After getting settled we walked to Old Town, which turned out to be a bit of an ordeal, trying to pick our way along unfamiliar winding streets in the dark, all the while trying to avoid the prostitutes, which we never did find.

Our destination - Sangam Indian Restaurant near the Hauptbahnhof. Yes, the genie had been let out of the bottle and there’d be no going back. I like Indian food...Bill loves it. Unfortunately, we live in a city where Indian food is as rare as hen’s teeth, so...

Our meal was good, but not nearly as good as the previous night in Freiburg, causing us to regret not looking for the Indian Curry House earlier in our stay.

After dinner we walked through the Christmas Market, and sought out St. Sebaldus Kirche for a school Advent concert that’d I run across in my research. We paid our 5 Euro each and took the only remaining seats we could find - in the very last row...way left of center, behind the school kids that would be performing - and behind several columns, which effectively blocked our view. The church was freezing cold, and absolutely packed, mostly likely with proud parents.

The antics from the kids in the audience were more interesting than the concert itself, which was just as well since we couldn’t see, and could barely hear the music. There was a lot of changing from one choir to another, kids running amok. Other than the fabulous venue, it felt very much like a school pageant.

Not sure if we could find our way back to the apartment on foot in the dark, we bought a 1.60 Euro per person ‘short trip ticket’ for the U-Bahn...but went in the wrong direction. So it was off one train and onto another, finally finding our way home, but not knowing if we’d even bought the right ticket.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2017, 10:00 PM
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Sorry about the transportation issues. Am still enjoying your report on the various Christmas markets.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2017, 11:08 PM
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Wow, the Nuremberg Bronx! I never heard that. My cousin lives around the corner from that apartment in Petzoltstrasse, we always stay with her. I love the location, but it's not high end, for sure. Easy access via Pfarrer station, nearby stores, those Turkish sheesha bars, very different from my dull suburb, probably why I like it
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Old Jan 2nd, 2017, 11:59 PM
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What I meant is - you could have walked from Basel Bad(ischer Bahnhof), it's not much farther than from Basel SBB, especially on the way back. Actually, you already were closer to Basel Bad(ischer Bahnhof) when you were at Claraplatz. Did you have a look at a map?

The first day in Nuremberg sounds like an adventure. Glad you didn't find the prostitutes ;-)
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Old Jan 3rd, 2017, 02:08 AM
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>Wow, the Nuremberg Bronx! I never heard that.

If I recall it correctly, the »Nurenberg Bronx« was a coining of US military personnel, who were based in Nuremberg in large quantities in the mid-sixties. Many of them, you might guess why, knew the Gostenhof area quite well.

>Pfarrer station

Hihi, that made may day (auto-correction?). Will check tomorrow if the Plärrer has turned into a parish where tram drivers give their gracious benedictions to their clients.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2017, 06:28 AM
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Ingo -

So, you mean we could have walked from Claraplatz to Basel Bad instead of returning to Basel SBB to go back to Freiburg?

Yes, we saw the other station on the map, but didn't know how far it was from us. We like to walk anyway, so no worries.

Adelaidean -

We walked through the area near Plarrer station and saw all the Turkish takeaway shops and shisha bars. Had it not been for the cobblestones, cold weather and historic buildings, we could have been back in the Middle East.

It's definitely colorful, and probably a good place to eat.

The area closer to the Rothenbergerstrasse station was less vibrant - more residential - kind of dingy with ancient graffiti covered apartment blocks, a neglected cemetery, lots and lots of trash. It felt real, working class, ethnically diverse, and in need of a good power wash

One night we saw some young vandals destroying some pipes, but we felt perfectly safe, and would consider staying in the area again, as it was incredibly convenient to the U-Bahn and the apartment was excellent.

As for the prostitution - I found this online:

<<<Behind the scenes: prostitution in Nuremberg

Normally Nuremberg is not very far in the cities rankings. Spicy exception: Nuremberg is located on the square of the German Puff capital, directly behind Augsburg and Trier. Per 100,000 inhabitants, approximately 225 prostitutes work in Nuremberg. No wonder, one of the oldest red light district in Germany is located in Nuremberg: the area behind the Frauentormauer.>>>

Stephanie said the girls worked 'between the walls', which meant nothing to us at the time, but later in the trip we walked the walls of the castle - I think she might have been referring to the walled space between the castle and the street, in what we thought of as the moat. We walked it in daylight, and only saw dog walkers.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2017, 06:41 AM
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Spicy exception: Nuremberg is located on the square of the German Puff capital, directly behind Augsburg and Trier. Per 100,000 inhabitants, approximately 225 prostitutes work in Nuremberg. No wonder, one of the oldest red light district in Germany is located in Nuremberg: the area behind the Frauentormauer>>

who knew? yet another fact to add to the weird and wonderful things I've learnt on Fodors.

Thanks Mel, and thanks for your ever-interesting TR.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2017, 07:53 AM
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>Stephanie said the girls worked 'between the walls', which meant nothing to us at the time, but later in the trip we walked the walls of the castle - I think she might have been referring to the walled space between the castle and the street

What se was referring to is the small street called »Frauentormauer«, just behind the wall running from the mighty round tower at beginning of the Königsstrasse (just opposite the Nuremberg info) to the west. The Frauentormauer used to be the street department of the business while Gostenhof was known for somes dives where local dignitaries could make appropriate »contacts« in a more discrete way...
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Old Jan 3rd, 2017, 09:18 AM
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Yep, that's what I meant. I was just surprised you walked back to SBB station, but if you like walking then all is good

Interesting facts about Nürnberg. LOL
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Old Jan 3rd, 2017, 01:52 PM
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Happy to oblige annhig.

Thanks for the clarification sla019.
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Old Jan 4th, 2017, 12:01 AM
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..and thanks for the correction sla019, I didn't even notice it; I didn't intend to add priests to the conversation.
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