Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

We Survived the White Knuckle Drive of Death! - Our 2006 Croatian Trip Report

Search

We Survived the White Knuckle Drive of Death! - Our 2006 Croatian Trip Report

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 26th, 2006, 07:48 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We Survived the White Knuckle Drive of Death! - Our 2006 Croatian Trip Report

Another “September in Croatia” Fodorite reporting in. We had a blast in Croatia and would love to go back someday. If we do, it’s going to involve a boat – those waters are incredible!

I have used Fodors to help with trip planning for years, but have never actually written a trip report. It’s not so much that I don’t want to “give back”, but frankly I am a horrible typist and this is going to take me two forevers to get down in writing! Additionally, since I always follow advice offered by my fellow posters, a lot of what we have done on other trips has already been written about in other threads. Croatia is a little less explored here, so perhaps this time I can make a useful contribution. I am also putting in some logistical info here, hope it is useful for the Croatia virgins, and not too boring for those that have already been. Actually, I was hoping there would be this big deluge of trip reports coming in and no one would notice I did not do mine!

DH (49) and I (44) took off from Madison, WI for Croatia on 9/2, using FF miles from NWA and flying Air France metal. Closest I could get to Dubrovnik was Zagreb via CDG in Paris. I was convinced I would miss the connection at CDG as we only had 65 minutes, so I decided to make it an overnight stop in Zagreb. That way, even if I ended up in Paris overnight, I still would not miss my separately booked Croatian Air flight on 9/4. Needless to say, all my plans for missing the CDG to Zagreb flight came to naught as we made the connection with time to spare.

Upon arrival in Zagreb we picked up some kuna (from the ATM near security at departures – the one near arrivals was empty) and headed out to the bus for ride into the city. First billboard we see on the way was sausage related, so hubby’s interest was piqued. We ended up getting slices of all sorts of different hard sausages/salamis for lunches and dinners while in Croatia and they were mighty tasty. Can you tell I am from Wisconsin?? We take our sausage seriously here!

Our hotel for the night was the Arcotel Allegra (108E for two including a big brekky the next day with hot dishes and every European breakfast food you can think of) and at the bus station we hopped on the tram that took us right to the hotel. It was not very far and we ended up walking back to the bus station the next day. The hotel was great and had a modern feel. Fun rooms, darkening curtains, big comfy beds, free internet, nice staff. Our room was super quiet as it was over a small courtyard. I would recommend. By the way, I had gotten a great deal at the Regent Esplanade (149E per night not including a breakfast) but I cancelled that ressie as we were there such a short time and were barely going to be in the room. I did walk into the Regent, and although it looked nice enough, in my opinion it was not fabulous nor worth the extra $.
HappyCheesehead is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2006, 07:49 PM
  #2  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok – about Zagreb. We have been to Vienna, Prague and Budapest and I was interested in how Zagreb would compare. It does seem like a poor Hapsburg cousin, but there are interesting areas and it seems as if there is a lot of restoration work going on around downtown. We hit some highlights, Cathedral, Trg bana Jelacica (was everyone in town there???) and walked about in the Gradec area which we found charming in the windy streets of Europe way, but none of the shops were open as it was Sunday. We stopped for beer at Oliver Twist and had dinner (ok) at an Italian restaurant a bit further down the street, Agave (120 kuna all in). It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon and walking was a good antidote to an overnight on an airplane. To be honest, however, I have to agree with posters who have said it before me; it was not what I came to Croatia for. I would have skipped it for another day along the coast if I knew then what I know now.

By the way, what is the weird fascination Zagrebians have with corn? We saw it being sold on carts everywhere, roasted, boiled, popped!

We got a great nights sleep and after breakfast we headed north of the Trg bana Jelacica for the big market and enjoyed poking around. It was great just settling into the feel of Europe again. We head back to the hotel and walk over to the bus station and back to the airport for our flight to Dubrovnik. What a great deal that was, less than 75 US for the two of us combined directly from the Croatian Air website. I did buy the tix early though, as soon as they were available because those really fares go fast. We had to make a stop at the desk and get our tickets before we checked in but that took two minutes. The plane was newish looking and flight was great. Water and a mint were the refreshments!

In Dubrovnik we stopped first to pick up our car (booked through AutoEurope and picked up at Sixt – 263 US for 7 days) and were asked if we were going into Montenegro. You betcha we are. DH swears he sees the attendant switch car keys then and we end up with a Skoda Fabia with a missing hubcap. Hey, fine with me. If Montenegrins like Skodas I am cool with them too. Is the missing hubcap code for ignore me?

You are hooked on Southern Dalmatia just as soon as you start getting glimpses of the gorgeous water and the stark coastline. Oh yes, we are going to like it here just fine. We look at each other, grinning, and the oohs and ahhs begin. Could this BE anymore different than Wisconsin???

More to follow!
HappyCheesehead is offline  
Old Sep 26th, 2006, 08:51 PM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,900
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I remember your name... were you asking questions about Croatia quite some time ago? I am glad you finally took the plunge!

Croatia is one of the most beautiful countries I have had the opportunity to explore.

Please take the time to go to the War Photos Museum. It is not upbeat by any means but it provides good insight to what the Croatians went through during the recent war.

I can't wait to read more of your report!

Cheers!
eurotraveller is offline  
Old Sep 27th, 2006, 07:38 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great start HappyCheesehead! Looking forward to more.

Jana
janaturner is offline  
Old Sep 27th, 2006, 07:53 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Anxiously waiting for more too ...
Barb is offline  
Old Sep 27th, 2006, 08:17 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 427
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So excited to hear more about your trip! Can't wait!
Amanda23 is offline  
Old Sep 27th, 2006, 03:56 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Already reliving our trip earlier this year!! You were warned it was beautiful -- and though you haven't gotten to the Montenegro report yet, can just tell you loved it!!! Hope your next installment is coming up soon-
Debs is offline  
Old Sep 27th, 2006, 08:05 PM
  #8  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the encouragement! We had looked into going to Croatia first in September of 2005 but decided on Turkey instead, then even that fell thru after hubby had to go teach a class in Germany and I met him at the end for 10 days. Poof! went the needed vacation time. My vacation is planned out to the last minute (we already had tickets for two weeks in France in April of 2006) so something had to give.

Typing this report is a wee bit time consuming but fun too, it really lets me relive the way I felt meeting Croatia ( and Montenegro too, LOL) for the first time.
HappyCheesehead is offline  
Old Sep 27th, 2006, 08:06 PM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

We find our way to our lodging for the week, Apartments Antonela, http://www.dubrovnik-online.com/apartments_antonela/ pretty easily from the directions the owner provided. Ljubica, our hostess, is a lovely woman (living with her young family on the floor below us) and she shows us upstairs. She throws open the terrace curtains and we cannot believe how pretty the view of the old harbor, Ploce Gate and Dubrovnik is from our vantage point .

This is the first time we have ever tried an apartment rental and I loved it. It was not fancy at all, but it was clean and we had plenty of room to spread out. We had a little kitchen that I did not use, except to make some sandwiches and snacks. I have to admit, even though we had a kitchen table and chairs and comfy living room furniture, I never even sat my fanny on them. If we were home we were on the terrace. I loved the terrace in the morning with my coffee. I loved the terrace in the afternoon with a snack. I loved my terrace at night gazing contently over the lights of the city and illuminated walls.

After we got settled we headed out to the bigger grocery store Ljubica recommended over on the Pile Gate side of town, Tommy?. Compared with the Ploce side, the Pile side of town seemed built up and busy to me. Lots of big apartments and businesses and heavy traffic. The big harbor is over here. The Ploce side is very much smaller and has a neighborhood/residential feeling with the million dollar views.


We got lost trying to get to the store and drove in circles a bit before we spied the store. Well, no wonder we did not find it, it almost looks like it is built in the upper floors of an office building and I couldn’t even see a parking lot. What the heck?? There is parking, but it is a paid parking ramp and you have to take a ticket to go in. You get one hour free I think and then 10 k an hour or so?

I love to visit grocery stores in other countries and we spent a good two hours there. Of course I had my camera and I wandered the aisles taking pictures of the shelves filled with the unfamiliar products and packaging. I loved the jars of picked veggies and jams, the pates (I think) the cookies, the vacuum packed calamari on the hoof in the freezer. Did you know Mr Clean is Mr. Proper in Croatia? DH was trying his best not to appear to be with me and still keep the shopping cart near. I noticed beer entered the cart as my back was turned. We went over to the deli kiosk and the cheeses and sausages looked fabulous and unpronounceable. What to pick??? We have been burned before. I will never forget the cheese that ended up in the Danube outside Durnstein in Austria. Behind glass it was an intrigue. In the car it reeked. We had to give it a chance, but it was just awful, into the river it went. A man standing next to me appeared to know what he was doing and I tried to ask for a recommendation. Language was a barrier in this conversation but he got my drift. He spent a couple of minutes finding the paski sir – the cheese from Pag – for us and directed the clerk to cut a chuck about .25 kilo for us. I would like to find that man and give him a big cheesehead smootch because that cheese was just awesome!

Back to the apartment to drop off the groceries, it is about 9ish now and off we head to get our first close up look at Dubrovnik. We head straight down the steps and to the Ploce Gate and are there in 5 min. We walked through the passages, excitement growing, until we got to the Stradun. Yes, it was dramatic and beautiful and gave us that “just pinch me” feeling. Have you ever walked out of the train station in Venice to find the Grand Canal at your feet and the palaces of Venice before you? Like you just stepped back in time? We strolled the Stradun, peering into the little alleyway passages heading up the hill to the east and the shops lining the street. Hungry, but not wanting a heavy meal, we head for Mea Culpa and it hit the spot perfectly. The wood fired oven pizzas over there are sooo tasty.

We did not want to go back yet and spend the next hour walking the back streets on the western side of town.. Besides a few strollers like us, some sleeping cats and three boys playing soccer in a small square we saw almost no one. We headed back out to the center areas and there was live music piano playing near St Blaise Church. I was really surprised at the number of people relaxing in the cafes that late on a Monday night. I was really surprised I thought it was that late, LOL, not quite midnight, when did I get this old? But who could blame them? The days have been warm and the nights are perfection. A stroll around the old harbor, looking at the moon on the water, and we head back up to the apartment. Time for the terrace and we sit and listen to the last of the piano player’s tunes as we absorb the atmosphere and the view.

More to come!
HappyCheesehead is offline  
Old Sep 27th, 2006, 09:21 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi.. Glad you are posting your trip.. Your writing is FINE.. very descriptive, and inviting! I'm really enjoying it. You are right on about the difference between the Ploce Gate and Pile Gate areas.. and points inbetween. Definitely bringing back the memories.. Looking forward to your next part.

and thank you again for the photos you sent me! you are so thoughtful to do that for me.
callalilli is offline  
Old Sep 28th, 2006, 01:44 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,037
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Glad you finally made it to Croatia. enjoying your report. I knew you were a cheesehead, but didn't recall that you are from Madison. did you see that Gourmet just names Etoile one of the 50 best restaurants in the US? I can relate to your Wisconsin love of cheese and sausage. My son went to U of W in Madison his first two years and tells of the guys sitting around with their beers and pulling blocks of cheese out of their back pockets to carve off slices.

I felt as you about Ploce vs. Pile but may have somewhat kinder feelings toward Zagreb. We did a night there on our way out of the country and I very much enjoyed the place. Would love to see the market in full swing. It's mammoth.

Excited to hear more. Keep on keeping on.
JulieVikmanis is offline  
Old Sep 28th, 2006, 01:05 PM
  #12  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Julie:

In the 6 plus years we have lived here I have never made it to L'Etoile! We really hardly ever eat out here in Madison, even though there are many, many interesting restaurants. Hubby is on the road a lot and is happy with simple home cooking when he is around, lucky me!

That said - I will have to get myself over there to see what a top 50 resto is like! I am on the mailing list for all the cooking classes they offer and they always look delish.

Hiya Callalilli- you are so welcome - it was a pleasure to share.
HappyCheesehead is offline  
Old Sep 28th, 2006, 02:11 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Not to put any pressure on you happy, but do you think you can finish your report in, oh, about 50 min. before I leave my computer and go home to pack?? Just kidding, of course. Loving your report!!!
Barb is offline  
Old Sep 28th, 2006, 07:44 PM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This trip is going to have to move along a little bit faster – 2000 words for two days in Croatia, I am going to be writing until Halloween!

Since we didn’t hit the hay until 1:30 last night we are moving a little more slowly today. We drink a pot of coffee in the balcony and are in no hurry to go anywhere. I hardly ever do this on vacation – we go, go, go. I like it. I am happy for the beautiful day and start noticing all the fruit producing plants around us. Ljubica’s FIL is growing grapes as a roof over his terrace, Ljubica says enjoy some off the vine, but don’t drink the homemade wine if offered! The terrace next door has a roof of kiwi fruits on the vine. I am pretty sure she said they made wine out of them too, I cannot quite wrap myself around that, LOL. There is a lime tree full of fruit hanging its branches over the little second balcony and I invite one inside. It is orangey on the inside and quite tasty. There are pomegranates growing everywhere and figs, figs, figs. They make quite a mess when they fall.

Really, we need to get going so we drive to Cavtat and look around the harbor and town. We walk all along the pathway around the coast and darn this place smells good. It is a warm, dry, soft, fresh piney smell, and it is cooler in the shade of the pathway. Grannies are sitting on each bench tatting and cross stitching and selling. I take about 20 pictures of just the water. How is it possible it looks like this? People have been living on these shores for a couple thousand years and it is just so clean and clear! We take time for a gelato (double) and my favorite is quickly becoming the arancia – orange. DH focuses like a laser beam on the chocolate. The nut flavors come in second for him, but I am definitely fruity. Hey – I heard that.

We drive back to the apartment for a sandwich from our Tommy supply. I am already kind of tired of eating out.

We had decided to take the city wall tour so walked down the hill to the town. When Tcreath decides to say howdy on this thread I will give her the stair count going back up- she is staying at the same apartment in November. It is a plus she is young and fit! We decided the wall tour should be done in the evening as the day was cooling down, but there was a definite downside to this. I dawdled. I took pictures every where. I listened to the audio guide and then just stood and gazed around me. I got kind of misty eyed and tried to get a grip on the history of the town in front of me. I needed to get a grip on myself! We were walking the wall counter clock-wise from the Pile Gate entrance and we walked the entire Adriatic side and got over to the old harbor section and found they had LOCKED OFF THE REST OF THE WALLS! It was only 7pm! RATS!

We comforted me with gelato (um, second double of the day), went for a walk and spoke with an art supply shop man about the local architecture and what winter is like in Dubrovnik. Rarely is there snow, but the wind is fierce. It has different names depending on the direction it comes from. It can be rainy and depressing and not a soul on the Stradun. Hard to imagine.

It had been a hot day and I suggested a cab back up to the apartment ( the only time we did this) and got a nice cool ride in a Mercedes for 40 kuna. DH has never looked at me so lovingly!

Back to the terrace to listen to the piano coming from the old town again, watch the night, and wait for the church bells to send us off to bed.

More to come!
HappyCheesehead is offline  
Old Sep 28th, 2006, 09:42 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 578
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sounds like a perfect vacation to me. Enjoying this report.
cobbie is offline  
Old Sep 29th, 2006, 03:27 AM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
bookmark
ekellyga is offline  
Old Sep 29th, 2006, 10:14 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Wow, H.C.! This is beautiful!

I know it is a lot of work, but isn't it fun re-living the experience. And we certainly enjoy reading it! Keep it coming . . .

Linda

(P.S. my daughter is considering grad school at UW. Can you believe it! I may get back to Wisc. after all!)
LCBoniti is offline  
Old Sep 29th, 2006, 06:02 PM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Happy -- I'm absolutely loving this, but please hurry! We leave for Croatia on Tuesday and I wanna hear your version of the White Knuckle Drive of Death!
ckwald is offline  
Old Sep 29th, 2006, 08:37 PM
  #19  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh sure, ckwald, and do you read the last chapter of your novels first too?? I am building the drama!!!

Actually, don't mind sharing that part a bit,LOL. There has been discussion on the board about that crazy drive from the eastern end of Hvar to the western end, some thought it horrible, some not so bad, I even remember one brave soul called it a "complete doddle".

I have to say, with utmost respect to those who did find it a bit frightening, that we didn't have any trouble with it AT ALL. I think that is for a few reasons. 1. We had a full tank of gas (just teasing janaturner here a little bit) 2. My hubby loves to drive, does a lot of driving, and is a very skilled and confident driver 3. We were EXPECTING what was in front of us and 4. We got off the ferry in a pack of cars and we stayed #2 in a line of three. There was a point man in front of us all the way to Jelsa. I think that made a big difference right there.

I was never too worried because I was way too busy trying to snap pictures of the scenery. There were a few spots where there were steep drop offs and hair pin turns (kind of a thrill, but I was never scared), but not nearly as many as I thought there would be and everyone slowed way down at those points. When we got to the Jelsa turn off we thought, was that all there was???

DH thought the Connor Pass drive in Ireland was worse, but that was partly because we were also drive on the other side of the car than is normal for us. Funny thing, when we were waiting in the car ferry line we met a couple from Ireland who had done the drive the year before. Obviously they were back for more but they were telling DH how it was way worse than the Connor Pass.

By the way, our Hvar hostess told us the accidents on that road are very rare as everyone is very careful when they drive it.

Just our two cents on the matter!

Are you planning on driving it?



HappyCheesehead is offline  
Old Sep 29th, 2006, 08:40 PM
  #20  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks Cobbie, and LCBoniti - Hope your daughter decides to wait til spring to come, LOL! Colors are just starting here though, and they remind me of why I do love my home state.
HappyCheesehead is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -