julies

In Oct. 2017 my husband and I spent a week in the CT, based in an apartment in Monterosso. Despite all we'd read about how busy and over-touristed the CT is, we liked it a lot. Of course, we also planned to be there at a time when no cruise ships were in port, and we didn't do the daytime forced march with non-stop tourists just milling around the small towns. And, we had an entire week! We took walks/hikes that were challenging (we're old) but were away from the crowds, and the walks had lovely views. We relaxed on our terrace overlooking the town. We took the all-day boat trip along the coast to Portovenere and explored that area. We took the train to Levanto and did a coastal bike ride to Framura. For meals, most of the time we did take-out on our terrace rather than eating out. We walked to a winery for snacks and a wine tasting.

We are looking for a similar type coastal trip with similar walking opportunities. But, since we are two years older and slower and more out of shape we don't want any areas where the only option if for super strenuous all-day hikes that involve nothing but climbs. Nice, scenic (preferably water views) 3 to 4 hour hikes with some elevation change are more what we're interested in.

We've never been to the Amalfi Coast. It sounds lovely (and touristy). But, it also sounds much more glitzy and perhaps aimed at a different type of traveler and demographic than we are.

From the Amalfi Coast area, we also know that we could have easy access to move on to other areas with great historic sights. It's been 50 years since we've been to Naples, Vesuvius and Herculaneum. We've never been to Pompeii. So, these are other places we could add on for additional days.

We are very casual and into nature, prefer slow travel, are not glitzy, and we have done enough traveling that we feel no need to rush around to see every tourist sight (especially since we've found that often some of them are over-rated). We don't shop. We are definitely much more small, charming, intimate B&B type people than 4* or 5* hotel people. We don't eat at fancy, expensive restaurants.

We normally are fine with renting a car but obviously just relied on the trains in Cinque Terre. I've read that driving along the Amalfi Coast can be terrifying, and the driver is so white-knuckled that all he is doing is concentrating on the road rather than the scenery. So, if we do the Amalfi Coast we'd probably be relying on public transportation. We know we'd find the ferries there fun and enjoyable.

What do you think? Is the Amalfi Coast what we're looking for as a place to spend a week or so? If so where would you suggest for 1 or 2 bases (we'd be looking for an apartment again)?

When planning our CT trip I'd also found suggestions for the Camogli or Tellaro areas in Liguria for people who wanted a similar, but less crowded, walking-opportunity experience to the CT. So, these could also be possible alternatives. But, the Amalfi Coast is so famous, and there must be a reason for its popularity. As I said, we're way past the point where we are just interesting in ticking the typical tourist places off our list. Less is more is what we are now interested in.

Thanks much.

suec1

Hopefully you will get more anwers soon. I know there is a "path of the Gods" you can hike in the Amalfi area. Also there are lovely places to walk on Capri. Capri can be crowded with day trippers but is quite nice in the early mornings and evenings and I'm thinking the day trippers don't do much hiking anyways. Maybe you could stay several nights on the Amalfi coast and then several nights on Capri.

Leely2

There's loads of good walking on the AC and once you get off the Path of the Gods, you can get away from the crowds and glitz.

I used to have a good book about hikes in the area. I'll see if I can find the title.

Oops, I see you want to avoid strenuous climbs. That might be difficult. I'm in my 40s and fit and had no problems, but it could be tough for others. Again, I'll see if I can find my book.

Paqngo

Jean

You can read online articles about the trails in the AC area. There are several, with different levels of difficulty and distance. For the most part, they are more strenuous than those in the CT. Depending on the time of year, some hikes should be started very early in the morning to avoid the hottest part of the day. You need to carry water. IMO, while the CT trails can usually be walked in regular athletic/tennis shoes or hiking sandals, the AC trails require more supportive shoes meant for trail hiking.

I haven't cycled while there, but the only cycling I would consider would be in the Massa Lubrense/Sant'Agata area of the Peninsula

In high season, getting around the AC can be a little frustrating. Buses and ferries fill up quickly. Driving isn't recommended unless you're visiting in the off season (after Nov. 1st), but then restaurant and hotel options are reduced. Ferry service is also reduced in off-season.

Pompeii is a difficult day trip from anywhere on the AC. At least 2 hours from Positano and probably 2.5 hours from Amalfi. If Pompeii is a priority, stay a night or two in either Sorrento or Naples for easy access to the commuter train (about 30 minutes) to Pompeii.

Jean

If you want a guidebook about hiking the AC area, look for guides published by Cicerone.

You can also ask about the trails at the Tourist Information Offices in Positano, Amalfi or Sorrento.

starrs

In my opinion, they are very different. I do think Capri is a great idea.

mama_mia

Since you mention not wanting "glitz," I will suggest Atrani as a location. It is right next door to Amalfi, so you can walk there in the evenings if you desire. From Amalfi, you can do the Valley of the Mills hike (Valle dei Mulini). This is graded 1-2 (out of 3) difficulty, 2 hrs long in the Cicerone guide. Very pleasant, shaded walk through an area associated with the papermaking trade. Saw Italian families taking picnics to the waterfalls areas. We also did the walk up to Ravello from Atrani (graded 1-2). For both of these, I remember passing lemon groves and beautiful wisteria. We also came across a goatherd and his charges on the path.

We did the Path of the Gods, taking the bus up to Bomerano and ending above Positano. We then took a bus down to the town, where we caught the ferry back to Amalfi. That hike is rated 2 and is about 3 hours long.

The Cicerone guide also lists some beautiful hikes on Capri. We hope to get there next year.

We were in our 50s when we did the Atrani trip. Although we walked every day, we also had desk jobs at the time. Not models of fitness. I think you would be okay with these hikes, especially if you are not going at the hottest time of year,

Leely2

It's the Cicerone guidebook linked above (the newer edition) that I had--very helpful. We stayed in Ravello but I really liked Atrani, it's more low-key.

Agree that hiking on the AC is easier than the easy CT trails. But I believe there are more difficult trails further inland/higher up @ CT (haven't been to the Cinque Terre since 2001! so I don't exactly recall).

I was in Camogli summer before last and did lots of hiking. I would grade the hikes we did on the Amalfi Coast generally more difficult, though you can find exceptions of course.

Have fun!

julies

Thanks so much to all of you! I knew I'd get some very helpful answers here.

We are thinking October, so overwhelming heat and overwhelming tourist hordes (I hope) shouldn't be an issue. I guess I hadn't realized that Oct. is still considered peak season on the AC.

We are probably older than the rest of you--70, so it is a bit concerning when I hear that the trails in AC generally are more difficult than those in CT. In CT all of those very easy trails are closed for the most part and that isn't what I am talking about when I said we walked/hiked. We did some of the more strenuous ones, but we also followed the advice on how to make those walks easier. Once or twice we took the shuttle bus up as far as possible and then walked down (not saying that going down is any easier on the knees).

After seeing your recommendations for books, I realized that I have the Sunflower book on walking in the CT area. And, when I just looked at it, I discovered that it also covers the Gulf of Poets in theTellaro area by La Spezia Bay, the area north of the Cinque Terre, and the Portofino Peninsula. II will have to more closely read it, and I think I need to order the parallel book for the Amalfi Coast so I can make comparisons.

Is the Amalfi Coast all that it is cracked up to be? Taking away the walking/hiking part of the query, do you think it would be a fit for us?

I am going to check out Atrani as suggested as a possibility.

Leely2--what did you think of the Camogli area in general?

mama_mia

I would think if you kept occupied in CT you would find the Amalfi coast to your liking; I find Amalfi more interesting because of the art and history. Both Ravello and Amalfi have duomos worth visiting for their bronze doors and mosaics. Ravello's has an ambo with a charming mosaic of Jonah and the whale. Also in Ravello are the Villa Cimbrone and the Villa Rufolo. Lovely views from both. There are several nice pottery shops in Ravello if you are looking for souvenirs.

Depending on how long you stay, your location on the coast and your interests, you could consider a trip to Pompeii or a visit to Salerno and Paestum (for its Greek temple).

Of course, you could also enjoy day trips to each of the Amalfi towns, just wandering around, eating and relaxing.

mama_mia

For what it's worth, we have hiked the CT trails: Levanto to Monterosso, Monterosso to Vernazza (Blue Trail) and one of the upper trails from Manarola to Corniglia. I would not characterize the trails I mentioned in my earlier post as being more difficult than the CT trails I have done. I would say that the AC trails were less crowded than the CT trails. Hiked both in late April/early May in different years.

Leely2

Maybe I thought the CT trails were easier because I was 29 or 30 when I walked them. And I was on the Amalfi Coast just three years ago.

julies, I really liked Camogli and environs. It felt less touristed by English-speakers than Cinque Terre (even the Cinque Terre of 2001) and the AC. However, I will say that the Amalfi Coast is more dramatic, to me a bit more beautiful, more "breathtaking." And as mama_mia says, there are more sights to see. Of course it's more expensive too.

I was in both areas early July, so almost the very height of the tourist season. October should be better wherever you go.

julies

You've all given me food for thought, and the real life comparisons have been extremely helpful. I need to do lots of further research, but at least I now know that I think the Amalfi Coast would interest us. Is it Positano that is the center of rich and glitzy, or is that pretty much an indication of how the entire area is? I read somewhere about designer outlets and such. Zero interest for us. I remember when we were up in the Lakes area one year; Bellagio was way too rich for our tastes and interests. We instead much preferred the area we stayed which was a small village set above it from which we could walk down each day.

I will still check out Camogli area, but I have the feeling that is really more for a totally relaxing, no expectations whatsoever for sightseeing type area. I think we'd like a little mix of options. And, I read Ravelo has gorgeous gardens (something that always calls to me).

Thanks again.

suec1

I would suggest as you research, consider Sorrento for connections and maybe more hotel / less expensive options. Atrani could be a good idea too - have not stayed there, but would be convenient for Amalfi and Ravello.

Paqngo

bon_voyage

neckervd

If you even liked 5Terre in October, you will be happy with the Amalfi coast trails.