Lovin' it, Maitaitom!

Tom,
I'm usually a denizen of the Australian side of Fodor's so have obviously missed some of your travellers tales. What was the prize you received for the most hilltowns seen by a 4 some from SoCal in one day?

Your fab report on Umbria so far has obviated our need to go ( Do you realize how many Americans have visited the Venezia in Las Vegas and now don't need to see the italian versio!?)

We've just returned from 3 weeks or so in Napoli and Sicilia ( TORNO D"ITALIA) so are glad to learn that the north still rocks.

grazie, AndrewDavid

"What was the prize you received for the most hilltowns seen by a 4 some from SoCal in one day?"

The usual...vino!
((H))

Dear Tom:

I am loving you report. Very entertaining and clever. I had a question about the Pecorino from Pienza. Pecorino Romano is one of my favorite cheeses, my mom is Italian-American, so we kind of grew up with it. Is Pecorino Pienza similar to Pecorino Romano? I would like to track some down to compare.

Thanks,

MY

"Is Pecorino Pienza similar to Pecorino Romano?"

When it come to serious formaggio questions, I am not the big cheese. I was told that Pecorino Toscano was a little less salty than Pecorino Romano, but that was after a bottle of vino, so my memory could be hazy.

On picnics or on the patio, when we were drinking wine and having salami and Pecorino, I bought the morbido (soft) Pecorino, or at least softer than the hard type shaved on salads.

The restaurant menus did not say (or I don't remember) what type Pecorino was used (I assume being near Pienza, they used Toscano, but not sure) in the ravioli dishes. I only know they were stupendous.

Hopefully, you will find a cheese expert who can help here, or maybe even post a new thread with your question.

As for me, to paraphrase Will Rogers, "I never met a Pecorino I didn't like."
((H))

I'm not a cheese expert either and don't know the difference between Pecorino Romano and Pecorino Toscano, but I can tell you a little about the different types of Toscano.

The stuff that is aged longer, 3-4 years or more, is the kind you cut off a chunk of or shave on top of a salad or beef carpaccio. The kind they grill, either by itself or with bacon, is not aged as long. The waiter at one restaurant actually told me they use the fresh Pecorino for grilling, but when I went to buy some, the guy at the store said that was too soft and I should use the stuff aged around 1 year. I got 1 kilogram each of the 4-year and the 1-year cheeses. That 1-year stuff grilled is to die for...Yum!

Thank you maitaotom!!!!!!!

Today I booked a trip to Umbria , for next June. Since we were just in Italy this August-September, we really had no intention of returning so soon, but after this report I couldn't help myself!
All I have planned thus far is five nights in Montefalco at Villa Zuccari, a wonderful deal I got through Luxury Link. Your itinerary will prove very helpful in our daily jaunts to surrounding towns. The rest of the trip is still very much in the planning stage. Thank you for the inspirtion!

Love Pecorino, too. Thinking about its salty taste reminds me of eating it when we arrived at our agriturismo in Umbria and spread out a nice little picnic dinner. Someone had brought Pecorino from Rome. As we were eating (and drinking the yummy local wine), we were commenting on how tasteless the salt-free Umbrian bread was and one of our group was getting irritated:
"It's the saltiest bread I've ever eaten!"

Needless to say, it was the addition of the Pecorino that she was tasting!

Thanks everyone so far. I will have to find out about Pecorino Toscano. I have tried Pecorino Locatelli: less salty, used more as an eating cheese. But I love Romano so much, I eat it by the chunk. BYW: When buying Pecorino in the US always look for IMPORTED FROM ITALY. Domestic will stick to your fork. Not the same.

MY

MaitaiTom, thanks for all the entertainment and information. It is great.

Pecorino Toscano is different from al others, as it is peculiar to the air, grass, etc. in its location. That is why Pecorino from Pienza is so famous.

The pecorino gets saltier as it ages. Pecorino Fresca can be almost buttery in flavor, and a well-aged one will be sharper, harder and saltier.

I think no aged hard cheese for grating can beat Locatelli Romano. I had a cheese monger push another romano on me once, saying they were all the same. It only happened once.

ttt

<b> DAY ELEVEN - AN AMAZING FIND IN THE HILLS OF CHIANTI, THE STAIRS THAT BROKE OUR FEET AND A FODORITE SIGHTING AT CANE &amp; GATTO </b>

Sleeping with the windows offers one the opportunity to savor the smells of the Tuscan countryside, unless one is greeted in the morning with wafts of cigarette smoke. The New Yorkers were up early, and to their credit they were quiet. On the downside, they were smoking like a chimney under our window. Yes, lung cancer was in the air.

The breakfast at the Piccolo Oliveta was fine (good sweet roll and cappuccino), and we decided to explore the land of Chianti on this very sunny Sunday. Everyone had slept ok, but as I mentioned, the beds weren’t the greatest. We headed out of town and got on the S222 (or Karen Valentine Highway as we called it in honor of the 1960s’ television program Room 222. Yes, our minds are full of useless trivia).

As mentioned, we were a little underwhelmed with our hotel, but it was not terrible, so we had planned on staying…until we saw a fateful sight. There, about ten miles from Siena, just to the right of the Karen Valentine Highway nestled in amongst vineyards, stood an oasis of swimming pools (yes, plural). I believe it was Mary who said, “What is this place?”

I made one of my many illegal and dangerous U-turns to accommodate that curiosity. We pulled on to a driveway that took us to the Agritourist il Molino. We got out of the car and walked to the adjacent swimming pools to the left of this lodging and were astounded by what we saw. A swimming complex that would have been a Mark Spitz dream and cost somebody tons of euros.

There was a giant lap pool, wading areas, a regular swimming pool, a place you could just walk out into the water and stand, and bridges that connected certain areas, all set out in the midst of this beautiful vineyard setting. Pretty spectacular. There was a place to get snacks and cocktails and a sitting area where you could have late afternoon drinks or cappuccinos in the morning. Oh yeah, it had a restaurant on the premises, too.

Four minds, one thought. What did this place cost a night? A fortune, we were sure. We went up the stairs and chatted with a woman who knew very limited English and asked her how much a night was it to stay here. She wrote down the nightly cost on a piece of paper and flipped it around for us to see.

I hadn’t looked this surprised since Tracy said she would marry me. “Are you sure?” I exclaimed. Kim then game me a look that usually was reserved for Tracy when she thought I was an idiot. He laughed and said, “Would you feel better if she told you it was more? Why don’t you talk up the price?” I knew he was having a good time ridiculing me, so I let him continue.

The cost per night, per room, was incredibly 60 Euros, and since it was September, guests could use the pool (which was actually a new, local swimming complex) for free. Well, let me backtrack, our room (with balcony) was to be 60 Euros; Kim and Mary’s room - sans balcony - was 55 Euros). Knowing that everyone was disappointed with the Piccolo Oliveta, we booked two rooms for Monday and Tuesday nights, got back in the car and headed back for Siena to tell the hotel we were going to cut our visit short.

Kim was always better at breaking up with girlfriends when we were in college, so he was chosen to tell the woman at the front desk we would be departing early. Kim told the truth (unlike our college days) that we wanted to spend a couple of nights in the country instead of the city, and they were very nice about it. We certainly expected to pay a penalty for backing out two days early, and were charged for a third night, which was fair. With the new charge at our agritourism, it would be a wash for us. So instead of Chianti on this Sunday, we decided to see the rest of Siena.

As we walked toward Siena, I had a terrible thought. “Oh no, I have reservations on Monday night at Il Cane &amp; Gatto for Tracy and me that I booked last month.” Kim and Mary had declined because it is a set prix fixe menu, and since he is allergic to tomatoes, he couldn’t take the chance on there being five courses of tomato dishes. Fortunately I called later in the afternoon, and they could change the reservation to Sunday night, so Tracy and I could still go that night.

We were all hungry (what else is new), grabbed a bite, and then set off to The Crypt under the Duomo. It was all part of the ticket we had bought the day before, and once again a good audio guide tour provided a wealth of information.

A good crypt experience always puts Tracy in a shopping mood, and this proved no difference. Actually, the plate we bought near the Duomo just arrived at my office a couple of days ago, and it was a nice purchase.

I started thinking about the song “I Ain’t Got NoBody” and so we all walked over to the San Domenico monastery so we could see the place where they keep St. Catherine’s head. After our visit, while I was still thinking it’s a little creepy to keep someone’s long dead, yet venerated, head for people to look at, my traveling companions were thinking about feet…their own feet, not St. Catherine’s.

A few times while walking on the Piazza del Campo I had stopped by the Palazzo Pubblico to see how long the wait was to walk up the 503 steps to the top. Fortunately, for the others, the line was always long. I decided I wanted one more opportunity, and Kim and Mary felt their feet would take a vacation from this journey.

Always the trouper, Tracy said she would walk over there with me, although I knew she was hoping for just one more long line. By a stroke of luck (mine), there was incredibly no one in line, so up we went. This is definitely a good trudge up to the top, not for those with vertigo, weak hearts or smart brains. But the views of the piazza, rooftops and countryside made it quite worthwhile. Fortunately for me, there were plenty of people at the top, so Tracy could not fulfill her dream of pushing me over the edge. When we got back to the bottom, there once again was a long line, and Tracy said, “Where were those damn people an hour ago?” I love it when she talks dirty.

Back at the hotel, we relaxed with Kim and Mary and a bottle of vino before our feast yet to come that evening at Cane &amp; Gatto, where we had 8 pm reservations.

We arrived at the restaurant a little before 8 pm, and since no one else was hanging outside, we walked around a bit, so not to be the first ones there. We were the first ones anyway, except for a couple of women who were told this was a good restaurant by their hotel. They were not told, however, that this would be an eating orgy, and not being that hungry they left after talking with the owner.

The restaurant is intimate (we counted 11 tables), and the owner greets you with a free glass of Prosecco. The server for the restaurant is the owner’s daughter, and she was delightful (and cute…not that I noticed). Tracy was given a green and burgundy orchid (to wear, not to eat), and the feast was about to begin.

First course was an antipasti misto. The blue cheese quiche with mascarpone was incredible, and the pecorino with honey, mozzarella with diced tomato and basil, melon&eacute; y salami and crostini with pat&eacute; of chicken liver was no chopped liver either (well, I guess the pat&eacute; was).

Next up was a cream of chick pea soup drizzled with olio, croutons and rosemary. Why is soup on vacation always so good? We jotted down a note to make more soup at home.

By now, there were six couples in the restaurant, and that is the way it would stay for the remainder of the evening. Our waitress told us the wines, and we chose one. Another couple asked if they could see a wine list. In one of my favorite lines from the trip, our server answered (very politely), “I am the wine list.” The timing was impeccable.

We then went on to our next course, wide stripes of pasta with a wild boar sauce. I think it was at this point in the meal I had to loosen a belt loop. Fortunately, they gave you a reasonable amount of time in between courses so you don’t explode at your table.

No stopping the gravy train now, and it was a course of grilled beef with truffles and porcini mushrooms, along with the only dish I could have done without, quail with green peppercorns in an orange sauce (tiny little bones kind of got in the way of any enjoyment of that dish). Tracy loved the grilled eggplant/zucchini/artichoke dish with her favorite (arugula), while I decided to save myself for dessert. I’m glad I did.

The strawberries in a semi-frozen meringue were out of this world and, although I am not a tiramisu guy, this was the best ever, served with little chocolate shavings. The sliced fruit (pineapple, kiwi, orange and gooseberries) was incredibly fresh. We washed it all down with a Moscadello de Montalcino.

The whole bill, including two bottles of wine came to about 190 Euros. At the end of the meal, as people were getting up, we struck up a conversation with a couple (he was from Boston, and I was in need of another baseball fix). As we chatted, I casually asked how they knew about this restaurant. She said, “Oh, I am on a travel board.”

This had all the making of a Fodor’s moment, so I asked, “Oh really, what board?”

She replied, “Fodors.”

“Me, too,” I said.

Then, in an Italian-thread minute, she blurted out, “Bob The Navigator rocks!”

Her moniker was Easygoer, and she had never heard of maitaitom, which I told her could be a blessing. Tracy and I waddled back to the hotel at about 11:30 pm and said we were going to stop eating so much after having such a wonderful meal.

Little did we know, that within 14 hours, we would have meal that would even surpass this one for food AND experience. God bless Italy!

<b> NEXT: A LUNCH FOR THE AGES, THE GREAT DANES MEET TUSCAN TOM’S TOURS AND CATCHING A FEW RAYS </b>
((H))

Wow, now I'm hungry after those awesome food descriptions :D
Can't wait to find out if the rooms at the Agriturismo live up to the swimming pools - sounds like a place we would love.

And in the furture remind Tracy she may only push you off the side AFTER you have completed your trip report! kidding...

Hello maitaitom, I just sit here and read your trip report and dream of being back in Italy, sob! Your report is a joy to read, one feels like they are travelling right along with you four and your humor is so delightful!
Now about the next hotel...when you have time of course!! No rush, but please don't let work get in the way, LOL.

LoveItaly, oh, I SO agree with you! I hate this guy too :))

When I read this report, any part of it, I'm ready to drop everything and go... sigh...

Do you know if the Agriturismo has a website?

&quot;Do you know if the Agriturismo has a website?&quot;

Amazingly it does not. I will have some pictures up on a blog if I ever finish this trip report. I have pictures of the pool (pools), the hotel, a sunset from our balcony and the surrounding vineyards. Plus Kim and Mary took some, too, that I'll get on CD in a few days.

I'll give more details in next report, but the rooms were small, but clean. Bathrooms were fine with tiny showers. For 60 euros it was an incredible bargain.

Not many Americans (actually we might have been only ones), but a lot of Brits, plus some Germans and people from Holland.

The restaurant was good, although it missed on a couple of dishes. There was an incredible pork dish.
((H))

I'm adding another visit back to Tuscany on my next trip to Italy!

Tom, You make me even more sorry that I missed my dinner at Cane e Gatto last month! I don't know if the hotel or the restaurant screwed up, but they didn't have my reservation. I was very disappointed. Have to go back!

&quot;You make me even more sorry that I missed my dinner at Cane e Gatto last month!&quot;

Any excuse to go back to Italy is a good excuse...and that wasn't even our favorite restaurant on the trip, although we liked it a lot. More later. Thanks.
((H))

Tom: I did a search on Yahoo under

&quot;agriturismo il molino tuscany&quot;

and came up with

&quot;agriturismo il MULINO&quot; which showed one picture of a round pool. The place has 8 rooms. Their rates, however, are double what you got as a walk-in.

Is this the right place? :)

&quot;Is this the right place?&quot;

I couldn't get that on Yahoo, but I googled what you put. The agriturismo that came up was in Southern Tuscany south of Radicofani and had one roundish pool. That is definitely not the place. What was exact website you found?
((H))

Hi, maitai!

On re-yahooing, three entries came up on the first page alone. Don't know if any of these fit your place.

http://www.agriturismo.net/il-mulino...ation_eng.html

http://www.agriturismo.net/montepulc...ulino_eng.html

http://www.initaly.com/~initaly/agri...om/mulinom.htm

Maybe one fits! Maybe none of these fit! :)

&quot;il mulino&quot; &quot;il molino&quot; seems to mean &quot;mill&quot; and there sure were lots of mills in Italy!

Intrepid leader of Tom's Tuscan Tours, I am truly enjoying your wonderful trip. I am planning a trip in December and am trying to narrow choices so that I can ensure we get to taste lots of vino and see as much as possible in too short a time. BTW, Wine Spectator recently had an article on Tuscan wines. I look forward to your report on Chianti. Because eating is a most important component, I particularly would like to trip Cane e Gatto. Did you make your reservation from here and if so, by phone or by fax? How much advance warning did you give your hosts?
Any suggestions would be most welcome. Keep up the postings!

&quot;Did you make your reservation from here and if so, by phone or by fax? How much advance warning did you give your hosts?&quot;

I called a few weeks in advance, but then called on that Sunday to change to that night since we had a change in travel plans. Fortunately, they had space for us. Have fun. You'll see later today about another great eating experience we had on the trip.
((H))

&quot;You'll see later today about another great eating experience we had on the trip.&quot;


you tease...

<b> A LUNCH FOR THE AGES, THE GREAT DANES MEET TOM’S TUSCAN TOURS, THE “UNDISCOVERED” HILL TOWN AND CATCHING A FEW RAYS </b>

We said goodbye to Alexandra at Piccolo Oliveta. Tracy had started calling her “my new wife” since she believed I was trying to flirt with her (a shocking assumption). After receiving some parting gifts (olive oil) and flirting with her more (oops), we hit the road. From this point on, if (I guess that should be “when”)Tracy became annoyed with me, she’d say, “Well, maybe your new wife will like that.”

As we rounded a corner getting out of a Siena, a large tuck traveling at an excess speed went about halfway into our lane. We narrowly averted death by the nimble maneuvers of Tuscan Tom, and we were safely on our way. Alexandra never knew how close she came to being a pseudo-widow.

We drove along the Karen Valentine Highway past our new accommodation (where we would check in that afternoon) and drove toward Greve in Chianti. Before you reach Greve, there is a sign for Lamole, a town I had read about and its restaurant with a spectacular view.

We passed the Villa Vignamaggio vineyard (the winery where the girl who posed for the Last Supper lived back in Da Vinci’s day). Speaking of the last supper, Tracy and I were still full from the Cane &amp; Gatto experience of the previous evening, but by the time the short, uphill journey to Lamole had been successfully navigated, amazingly we were ready to eat again. Truthfully, I don’t know how the four of us fit in the car together with all the food we ate.

In Lamole, Mary jumped out of the car (after it had stopped) and ran into the local church. “Had you read about it?” I asked as she left the church.

“No,” she answered. “I was just giving thanks that the truck didn’t kill us.” Now I know why Mary stopped in so many churches during the trip. Her hand was getting wrinkled from all the holy water she dipped it in.

It was a little before noon, and the Ristoro di Lamole (with incredible views out onto the Tuscan countryside) was only open for drinks until 12:30, so while Kim played “Mark Focus, Professional Photographer”, we sat on the patio and talked to some Brits who were on a tour. When Kim came back, he told them that he and Mary were on Tom’s Tuscan Tour, and they should think about signing up. I think I had them, but their tour director showed up, and it was back on the road for them.

Our tour voted to stay for lunch (it’s a democratic tour, for the most part), which turned out to be one of our best decisions of the trip. In the U.S., if a place has a view, the food is usually mediocre, at best. Not here. The food was spectacular, and the waitress was very funny, although like Mary and my new wife, Alexandra, she had a nasty cold. “I’m doomed,” I thought. Even my current wife, Tracy, was starting to cough. So many wives, so little cough drops,
Every dish was fantastic: Ribollita toscano, gnocchi with roasted tomatoes and olives, a pecorino ravioli with the freshest pears ever and drizzled with Lamole Olio, a pasta with pork, zucchini and carrots and the lunch was topped off with a dessert of chocolate cake (more like a dense brownie) with whipped cream and wild berry sauce. This meal experience even topped Cane &amp; Gatto, and my wallet felt better because it was about 1/3 the price including Prosecco and vino.

Tracy thought it was the best olive oil we had tasted, so we bought some, and we all thought the wine divine, so we bought some of that, too. As a matter of fact, I am going to e-mail Lamole soon to send me a case of olive oil, and Kim has seen the Lamole di Lamole wine at a Beverages &amp; More (see, I told we still talk to each other), so we’re going to pick some of that up, as well.

Near the end of the meal, we started chatting with a couple from Denmark, who come to Chianti for a month each year. They have a place in Panzano in Chianti. They were very friendly and talkative.

Just a little digression for a moment. One of the reasons Kim called it Tom’s Tuscan Tours is that I prepare for a trip longer and more detailed than most people. I had sent them descriptions of virtually every hill town in Tuscany and Umbria, complete with attractions, history and digressions. It’s even color coded (what, me anal?). I had also done the same for Florence, Venice and Rome. All in all, I had prepared about 250 total pages for our trip full of useful, and I hoped, and humorous information, not to mention pictures.

Anyway, the Danes started telling us about an enoteca in Greve where you pay money at the counter and are then given a plastic card, which you stick in the vino machines to wine taste. Before they could give the name, I whipped my papers from my back pocket and said, “Oh, do you mean Le Cantine?”

“Why yes,” they said. “How did you hear of that? By the way, there is a famous butcher shop in Greve.”

“Is that Macelleria Falorni?” I said. “Doesn’t it have a bunch of hanging prosciutto inside?”

Now the Danes were semi-impressed. Kim just said, “This is why we book Tom’s Tuscan Tours.”

A little later they said, “We have a favorite restaurant in town,” and shot me a glance.

“I’ll bet it is Bottego del Moro,” I said. They nodded and laughed and said on their next visit to California they’d call me for Tom’s Tuscan Tours of Southern California (I stole that name from the Los Angeles Angels of Anaheim).

The great Danes were drinking a bottle of wine from Volpaia. This was not in Tom’s Tuscan Tour guidebook, so we listened attentively as they talked about this little place. “Just up the road,” they said, “was the charming town of Volpaia. Not too many people know about it.” That was enough for us, we had to go take a look. I gave the Danes my business card, and told them to call me for a tour when they come to Southern California. I promised lots of wine.

We started toward Volpaia. A narrow road became narrower and the cement turned to dirt, and we are all thinking that we’re going to “discover” this town. Unfortunately, when we hit the center of town, it seemed a couple of tour busses had “discovered” it, too, and the place was crawling with Americans (the most we had seen on the trip). Outside of the tour busses, the town was very cute. We did buy a couple of bottles of wine from the store in Volpaia and left, feeling much like Columbus would have felt had someone told him Leif Erickson discovered America centuries before he did.

We made a quick stop in Panzano to see our friends’ adopted Chianti town and to look for Dario, the famed butcher, but his shop was closed, so we rushed back to Il Mulino for a late afternoon around the pool. For a couple of hours, we sat out in this great setting, the only four people using this huge area. We had cocktails, but even better, one of the pools was a “beach low-level water” pool”, meaning we could walk out and the water only came up a little over the knee. All our aching feet would become rejuvenated in the next two days, with the soothing water and surface providing much needed therapeutic relief. Well, that and the Campari.

Since we had the balcony, Kim and Mary joined us for some Volpaia wine in the early evening and a view of a gorgeous sunset in Chiantiland. Our room was located right over the hotel restaurant, so as people walked in the front, we wondered if they would ask how they get the wonderful outdoor tables.

We all went down to our restaurant for dinner, and sure enough, some Canadians sitting next to us overheard our conversation about our balcony and said, “We saw you guys when we came in and wondered if they had outdoor dining, eh?” OK, they didn’t really say eh.

The restaurant was mostly good, with a couple of slight misses. It is relatively new, and we chatted with one of the owners who had previously owned a restaurant in Napoli and in a nearby town before starting this one. The pork in a balsamic sauce was the night’s big winner and so was the ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta in my beloved Pecorino sauce. The two house wines cost 6 Euro and 12 Euro respectively…and they were pretty tasty.

The bed was fine, and we slept well. Tomorrow would be our relaxing day in Chianti as we would refresh our bodies before hitting the big three of Florence, Venice and Rome before heading home.

<b> NEXT – WHY DO MEN HAVE NIPPLES, LUNCH IN YET ANOTHER HILL TOWN AND HOW MUCH IS THIS PLACE GOING TO COST IF WE COME BACK IN TWO YEARS? </b>
((H))

Hi Tom
Am really enjoying this report on Tuscany! Trouble is we leave in 2 weeks and only have about three days there.... Luckily (or unluckily) my husband is a big driver and wants to show the kids lots of Tuscany. So...if you had 3 days...where would you try most to stay for a home base and what would you try most to show your family? (3 teens and 2 parents) We love architecture, food, views and wine!!!???
I know it is impossible to choose so if you can't I understand...btw we are going for the first time since our honeymoon 20 yrs ago and the kids are newbies.
Thanks if you can!

&quot;where would you try most to stay for a home base&quot;

Not knowing what your kids like makes it tougher to say. If you base near Siena, you can see Siena, San Gimignano, Volterra (that's a great drive from SG) and go down to Montalcino, Pienza and Montepulciano.

I personally love St.Quirico d'Orcia (we all did), but don't know if your kids would. It's a pretty quiet town, but has lots of Italian flavor (not just the gelato). From there, you could do a daytrip to Siena &amp; SG (Volterra would be too long a day, I think), and then on the other two days visit the nearby towns of Montalcino, Montepulciano and Pienza, and perhaps hit a couple of the lesser visited towns which we also loved to visit. You might want to base in Pienza, Montepulciano or Montalcino.

No matter what you do, you'll see a lot of neat places, eat a lot of good food and drink lots of great wine. Have fun.
((H))

While I have been quietly reading (with great delight and amusement) the saga of Tom's Tuscan Tours, I need to tell you all that he really does prepare an amazing packet of information. We were the grateful recipients of said packet when making our plans for our recent summer trip ( this is because, lucky me, I'm related to the kind person who drove on Saturday mornings to check on Tom's and Tracy's cats in their cat hotel).
Tom, we went to Volpaia, had a tour of the winery, no tour buses in sight that day, only the 4 of us on the tour. There's a bottle of their olive oil on my counter, but while we were there someone whispered to us about the restaurant in Lamole; alas we had other plans but perhaps when we return in the spring. . .
Thanks for the report, looking forward to the rest,
Marcia

Hi Marcia,

You are designated as the leader of the Volpaia Wine Tour as part of Tom's Tuscan Tours.

Thanks for the nice words, and yes, Marcia's sister, Susan, was kind enough to go visit our cats each weekend to tell them we were really going to come home some day.
((H))

The need for all things Tuscan is flowing strong here... I know I have to go back there soon, but since we just finished a big trip to Hawaii it will have to wait till the budget recovers: the sad realities of life, &lt;sigh&gt;.

But I found a local fix! We have a new Sur la Table store in our area, and they offer a big array of cooking classes. I've signed up for the Tuscan Dinner class next month because I really, really want to be able to make good Ribollita. I've tried a few times with different recipe variations, but nothing stellar so far. Haven't so far found what I understand is the key ingredient, cavolo nero (use Savoy cabbage as a substitute) -- but we have a new Whole Foods opening nearby, so I'm hopeful for more exotic veggies. :-) CT is definitely not CA! Maybe it's just distance and enchantment that clouds the taste memory?

Tom, thanks so much for the inspiration. I'm planning to print and save all the info, but that will likely be easier from your blog...

SB, try your local farmer's market for cavolo nero. I live in the Bay area and planted cavalo nero last fall. It has naturalized, so I have lots in the garden. If you can't find it anywhere, try substituting kale instead of savoy cabbage. I think you'd like the result better.

This has been so much fun, keep it up :)

easytraveler, none of the places you mention are the Il Molino where we stayed. I have scoured the internet, and it is nowhere to be found. I asked Tracy, Kim and Mary whether staying there was a dream I had, and they all assured me we did stay there two nights. I guess when I post my blog with photos, it will be the Il Molino's internet coming out party.
((H))

Hey Tom :-)
A Friday tidbit to hold us through the weekend?

I'm hoping to actually finish this baby over the weekend. It's too long already, and I really want to get my pictures online. Also, after reading the other long trip report, I am very happy that the four people on Tom's Tuscan Tours (and the two people who we meet later in Florence and Rome) can read this trip report with no fear of slings and arrows (a few jokes, maybe). We all enjoyed the journey and if you do that, any problems that arise are minimal at worst (even puting in the wrong gas).
((H))

As a wise man once said, &quot;attitude is everything!&quot; Now, if only he'd explain why men have nipples...

It's not too long! I love your writing style...please continue with vivid descriptions &amp; details!

Hey Tom !

I've only just joined reading your thread (after 200 posts; some of us have to work !) and I'm really enjoying it. Its funny, interesting and easy to read, and your story telling humour is perfectly balanced between caustic and self deprecation.

Keep up the great work; I'm looking forward to reading more. This thread is easily one of the best Italian trip reports than any other current ones on the board.