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This is indeed a wonderful trip report. Now I can't wait to go back to Italy.
Thanks, Tom. Judy |
I really love this trip report.
Please... More.. |
Ah, that wacky Lorenzo the Magnificent!
Your report is terrific--I'm eager for more! |
Okay -- I leave for a week in Paris [in the other wine country] on Monday and I NEED this to be finished by then :D
Otherwise I will be reduced to finding an internet cafe when I should be drinking my own wine! So please ... pretty plleeeeeeasssssee??? |
<b> DAY EIGHT – THE BEST FIVE HILL TOWNS MOST PEOPLE NEVER HEARD OF OR VISITED </b>
Although many Fodorites know the towns we were going to visit this day, I feel it is safe to say that most people who visit Italy have never been to any of these five. We filled up on the Palazzo del Capitano breakfast (did I tell you much we loved this hotel) because we had a big day of driving ahead of us. In planning our Italy trip, I compiled reams of information on various towns we could visit in Tuscany and Umbria. Today would be the day we would travel to five hill towns that don’t receive much coverage in the guidebooks. Even with the car incident, Kim had decided that I should start Tom’s Tuscan Tours, because of the details I had in my pre-planning, which included information on restaurants, history, shopping and sites to see in all the towns we had been to and were about to go. He thought I should take groups on these adventures. It might be fun, but a group with a negative attitude could make that kind of job pretty miserable. Tom’s Tuscan Tours on this day started from St. Quirico and wound past Rocca d’Orcia until we were on the Strada dei Vin. Heading for our first hill town of the day, Arcidosso. This quaint hill town (and really, aren't they all) in the Monte Amiata area (a region known for its mystics and seers throughout history) was home of the mystical 19th century prophet, Davide Lazzaretti, who, in a Jim Jones moment, proclaimed “he would be King and would reign over a kingdom of justice in the final age of the world.” Unfortunately for him, the carabineiri (Federal troops) shot him to death before he could reach that lofty goal. We parked and walked through the ancient part of town until we reached the Castello Aldobrandesco, which dates back to the 12th century. For one euro apiece we could climb the multitude of steps to the top. Since we had never met a set of stairs we couldn’t climb, up we went. The view was great, and, afterward, we walked over to the Madonna Incoronata, supposedly a neat church to visit. Since it was closed, we never got to find that out. Arcidosso is also host to a large Buddhist community, but this was no time for meditation. We had more hill towns to explore on Tom’s Tuscan Tours. Our next village was about an hour’s drive away. There was more incredible scenery along the route, and finally, there in the distance, lay our next stop, Roccalbegna. I don’t know how many of you are Harry Chapin fans, but he had a song called “The Rock,” which told the story of a rock (hence the name) which hung precariously over a town. Well, Roccalbegna has just such a huge rock that dominates the town. Roccalbegnans have a saying, "Se il sasso scrocca, addio la Rocca." Translated it means, "If the rock crumbles, goodbye to the village (and I assumed, any California tourists in the general vicinity)." Tracy was giving me the “evil eye” when I said we were going to climb to the top of the rocca on the rock. I told her that Tom’s Tuscan Tours does not back down when it comes to climbing, so off we went. For anyone who wants to do this, it’s simple. Starting at Piazza IV Novembre, go to Salito Sassa (to the front of you and on the right). Turn left at Salito Sassa (look for the yellow sign); go past the Bar-Tabacchi (unless you need a drink or a smoke) on your left, meander along a winding lane and, in about ten minutes, you are at the town fortress. The climb up to the top of the Rocca once you get there is steep, and we almost had our first casualty of the trip (well, first human casualty. As Tracy neared the top, there was a snap. Unfortunately, it was not a tree branch, but Tracy’s ankle. Thankfully, the injury did not turn out to be serious, but I started getting “the look” a little more from this time on. The views of the countryside were fantastic, but the view down on the grid-like streets and red roofs are what struck us most (at some time in the near future, I will put this report on my blog site with pictures and you can see what I mean). We made it down with no further incident. If you come to Roccalbegna in November, you could become a part of the famed Focarazza Festival, which commemorates the martyrdom of the saint for which the town is named. The Focarazza is a fire festival held in Santa Caterina di Roccalbegna. The ceremony goes something like this: An oak trunk, called a Stollo, with garlands of ivy, is raised. The next day the Stollo is the object of a contest among all the districts of Roccalbegna. The team that catches the Stollo burns it and spreads its ashes to ensure good harvest. I don’t know exactly how this contest is staged, but needless to say, the fire departments of Tuscany are on high alert that day. Since Roccalbegna is off the beaten path, we saw no tourists. I went to the nearby TI to get directions to our next stop, and it was obvious he had seen no tourists for a while, either. This guy was really nice, and I think he would have chatted with me all day. He gave me maps of the winemaking areas nearby, a book about the area, and everyone in the office thought it was cool we were from California. “We don’t get many people from California, “ he said. “How did you find us?” As usual, I had no good answer, but it was fun to talk to him and the others in the office. The rest of my group had sat patiently wondering (hoping) I’d been abducted. I said I had directions, and we promptly drove three kilometers in the wrong direction (Tracy is right…I am not a good listener). My miscue turned out great for us (as driving miscues often do), because driving back toward Roccalbegna provided a sensational photographic opportunity. Our next stop on this day was Sovana, located on the Pitigliano, Sorano, Sovana "Sunken Etruscan Road", which, of course, gives away the names of our final two hill towns. Some people believed these roads were sunken as a defensive measure so people could move unseen from town to town (sort of like when Alan Keyes moved from Gaithersburg, Maryland, to Chicago to try and win an election). Unlike Keyes, this worked for these citizens. Others think that the roads were constructed to help mooooove livestock, which Tracy thought was udderly ridiculous. In any event, since I had deprived my tour group from food, we all stopped for a healthy, late lunch of gelato and gelato crepes (part of our Five A Day helpings of gelato). By now, our cholesterols counts were all nearing 1,000, so an extra helping couldn’t hurt. Sovana was a nice town, but the next two towns blew us away. The drive into Sorano, with the road cur into the tufa, is something to behold. We parked a little outside the town and took photos of the town carved into the rock, and of the road below. It kind of reminded of us of the Cinque Terre sans the Ligurian Sea. What could top this, we thought? Well, about nine kilometers or so away is Pitigliano, a town that even has more spectacular views of it from many vantage points. Thank God for digital because Kim and I spent 20 minutes just shooting it from any angle we could. It was after 4 pm, and all our bodies got the same craving at the same time. Vino, baby! Fortunately Pitigliano has wine caves at every turn selling local vino, olive oil and packages of ribollito. We bought some local wine at ridiculously cheap prices and soup mix, and soon we were headed back to Spello. Although we made a wrong turn somewhere, navigator Tracy took things in her own hand, and soon we saw Radicofani on the right, so we knew we were headed home. It had been a long satisfying day exploring these five “undiscovered” gems, so we were all pretty hungry, and the hotel’s restaurant, Trattoria Al Vecchio Forno beckoned us. It has two rooms on two floors and is absolutely charming, not to mention serves good food. Kim’s pesto pasta was deemed best dish of the night while Tracy renewed her three week love affair with everything arugula, this time in a salad with pecorino and walnuts. There is another post going on right now that had someone saying it was basically crazy to drive in Europe. Today’s journey proved just how inaccurate and plain ignorant that comment happens to be. Had we not had a car, we would not have been able to visit any of these places. This day was our most scenic driving day of the entire trip, and exceeded even my most detailed pre-planning preparation expectations. The signage was great. The directions the gentleman in Roccalbegna gave us were perfect, even though I started out in the wrong direction. And the memories of the day will last a lifetime. I can’t repeat my mantra enough. Enjoy the Journey! Attitude is Everything! <b> NEXT: IT’S BRUNELLO TIME, ABBEY LANE AND FINAL COMMENTS ON OUR FAVORITE HOTEL…EVER! </b> ((H)) |
I bought an anniversary card which sends best wishes and may you never do anything that causes "the look". My DH accuses me of the look-does Tracy raise her eyebrow when she does it?
Great report! |
Oh, it all sounds so beautiful!
Tom, you do realize, don't you, that by describing these undiscovered hilltowns so eloquently here on Fodors they could become the next "hot spots?" I think you're only a trip report or two away from all of us following in lockstep behind you, a la Rick Steves! :D |
Tom, we've been to the last three towns you visited, but not the first two, so they are going on the list for future trips! When we were in Sovana about 5 years ago, it seemed to be trying to remake itself from a ghost town into an artist colony, although they hadn't attracted much in the way of talent that impressed us. Did you see any evidence of that?
Don't you agree that the views of Pitigliano are much better outside the town than inside? We were kind of disappointed once we actually got inside but it does have wonderful photo-ops as you approach. Another town in that area that we enjoyed exploring was Montemerano. Thanks for a great report. |
Joselyn, I was just thinking the same thing! :D
Tom, you have me drooling on the keyboard! Breathtaking... I have yet to cross the pond, but Italy is first on my list... unbelievable reporting. Keep on! ((Y)) |
This is so entertaining! However, my recently stated affections for you, maitaitom, are (just barely) taking second place to my affections for your wife! All things arugula! Me, too. Especially loved it on pizza in Rome. Oh how I love that bitter green taste...brought home seeds to plant in the spring.
More, please! |
Hi Tom!
Your trip sounds just great and your sense of humor a hoot! Too bad we didn't get to meet for a glass of vino! For me, Palazzo Bocci in Spello was the best hotel of the trip and I agree completely with you on the mouthwatering filet w/ balsamic sauce in Il Molino. Good for you choosing to leave La Cantina for Il Molino. the dinner I had there wasn't nearly as good as Il Molino. I got a kick out of the "Bucket of Bolts" too. The running start loading method especially! Please continue! I can't wait to hear more..... |
No problem Jocelyn, I'll be happy to lead the tour, but I don't have to get that goofy Rick Steves' haircut do I?
donco, Tracy has that Spock raised eyebrow thing going when she gives me "the look." I try to mimic it, but I just look like a fool. nonnafelice, Sovana was still very uncrowded and agree that Pitigliano is better as a view town, although I enjoyed the wine cave. makai1, you'll make it over the pond and have a wonderful time. annabelle2, I should have know the arugula would bring you two together. Thanks for all the fun comments. ((H)) |
"Your trip sounds just great and your sense of humor a hoot! Too bad we didn't get to meet for a glass of vino!:
Dayle, it would have been fun. Loved both the Palazzos; Bocci and del Capitano. Glad you had a great time. Next time I'll buy the first round. ((H)) |
"I can’t repeat my mantra enough. Enjoy the Journey! Attitude is Everything"!
Well said, Tom! I am loving this trip report and am taking lots of notes. By the way, if you go for the Rick Steves haircut, remember the look would not be complete without the blue short sleeved shirt and tan pants! :) Thanks for taking the time to write about your travels. Can't wait for the pictures. Johanna |
Wow, what a way to start the morning, by reading your report. I'm glued to every word.
I feel like an ignoramus - don't think I've tasted Pecorino cheese. Will have to pick some up today at the market. And what are gelato crepes? |
Tom,
This is perhaps my favorite report of the year - and that is saying something because there have been some great ones this year! I am so enjoying your writing style - I keep hoping there's more. Thank goodness it was a 22 day journey! Thanks so much and please keep going! Sally |
This will give us something to talk about at our GTG this Saturday. Hurry up and post about the Brunello to put us in the spirit. ((a))
Sally, what type of toga are you wearing on Saturday -- Oh, Oops, sorry, that's for another GTG. :D ((b)) |
I am so loving this report! I've never heard of four of the towns you visited, but I have heard of Pitigliano and its definitely on my list of "must visit" places! I'm printing off this thread because, as you may recall (since you were so gracious enough to respond) I posted a few days ago about Umbria and if I needed to spend the week in one place or not. I'm on a hunt for great hill towns to visit, and I'm sure the ones you visited won't dissapoint.
Thanks again for such a pleasurable report! Tracy |
<b> DAY NINE - IT’S BRUNELLO TIME, ABBEY LANE AND FINAL COMMENTS ON OUR FAVORITE HOTEL…EVER! </b>
Today’s installment will be a short one. After yesterday’s big drive, I promised an easy day. After breakfast, we made the short drive to Montalcino, the home of Brunello; Italy’s “Big Red” vino. It had been hours since I had made a driving error, so I thought I’d regale the passengers with another one. Trying to find the correct street to the Fortezza, I somehow found a dirt road with a very steep downgrade. Fortunately, I was able to find a spot to turnaround before the car plummeted off the cliff. After parking, we walked through town, which was having a market day. We all had varying opinions of market days. Kim and Mary thought they were kind of neat, while Tracy and I thought it was more like a bad flea market. But we had vino on our mind. We got to the Fortezza. Tracy and I climbed to the top and walked around the ramparts, taking a bunch of pictures. Afterward, it was time to spend our life savings on Brunello. Actually, Kim and I each did a 9-euro tasting of Brunellos, and I bought one for about 60 bucks. After buying some provisions at the local market, we headed to Abbey Sant ‘Antimo, located a few kilometers away. We drove down the Abbey lane to the parking lot. We had hoped to have a picnic while listening to Gregorian chants, but unfortunately our Brunello tasting put us at the abbey only minutes after the monks had finished their chanting. It would be two hours until they would chant again, so we paid a visit to the abbey, which, after seeing so many opulent churches, was quite beautiful in a simpler sort of way. In the early afternoon, we went back to St. Quirico and stopped in the Collegiata St. Quirico. If I have my saints correct, St Quirico was a third century martyr killed at the age of five by the Romans because he declared himself a Christian. We also took a look at the Horti Leonini, which is a 16th century garden comprised mostly of box hedges. As usual, I was having trouble finding beautiful gardens for Tracy, a recurrent theme in our European adventures. Both Kim and I went to an Internet café to look and see if we had any important work messages. Tracy just wanted to know if anyone had visited our cats at The Cat Hotel in Burbank. The cats were doing fine, only our Tabby, Cupid, was pouting because I didn’t spend the extra dollars to put him in a cage with the television that showed 24 hours of Animal Planet. After wading through more than 500 e-mails, mostly telling me where I could buy cheap Viagra and Xanax, and seeing that the San Diego Padres were still amazingly in first place, we went back to the hotel and, well I’ll leave that to your imagination. About the Palazzo del Capitano. This hotel was superb. The people who worked the front desk were extremely friendly and helpful in giving us directions or anything else we needed. Both rooms were spectacular (ours was 150 euros a night; Kim and Mary’s 130 euros a night). I would book now, because I guarantee within the next couple of years, those rates will go up. The owners were also very nice. That evening, the four of us sat with another couple from the Bay Area in the garden drinking Prosecco and wine, and munching on some of our provisions. The garden is another aspect of the hotel that stands out. It’s huge and beautiful. When my pictures are on my blog, you will just have to take a look. As stated earlier, I can’t recommend this hotel enough. This was my 13th visit to Europe, and for value, cleanliness, beauty and service, it was our best hotel experience we have had. St. Quirico d"Orcia is also a very central base to see much of the area and is much less touristy and crowded than a Pienza, Montalcino or Montepulciano (which we visited in 2001). The corner restaurant/bar on the "main" drag was filled one night with locals watching a soccer match and playing cards. Back to food and drinking. Even after wine and cheese, we were hungry (there is something weird about Italy in that no matter how much you eat, you just have to eat more…there must be something in the Prosecco). We dined again at the hotel restaurant, the aforementioned Trattoria Al Vecchio Forno. I had the big appetite on this night, devouring a meal of prosciutto y meloné, ravioli with pecorino sauce, baked pecorino with arugula and, for good measure, topping it off with some Biscotti dipped in Vin Santo. Back at the hotel, we had after-dinner drinks in the breakfast room area of the hotel, which also has a cozy bar. We toasted the hotel with various libations including Limoncello, Campari (wonder who ordered that) and some Amaretto. We would be saying arrivederci to St. Quirico tomorrow morning and driving through the Crete area to Siena, where we were scheduled to stay four nights. As you will find out, that four-night stay became a two-night stay for various reasons. Stay tuned. <b> NEXT: THAT’S THE TICKET, AN AWESOME ABBEY AND A SIENA SURPRISE </b> ((H)) |
Oh puhleeeease don't make us wait until Monday for another installment!
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Tom, I can't thank Bob the Nav enough for suggesting this location and hotel. This location makes it so easy to tour So Tuscany. Like you said close enough to visit the often mentioned hill towns of Montalcino, Pienza and Montepulciano but away from the crowds.
We stayed in the Capricorn room which was huge. It is on the first floor right outside the door to the garden. We paid 195E. I think you should have not been so enthusiatic about this place because it will soon be overrun, reservations will be hard to come by along with an increase in price! We ate at all the restaurants in town except for one. My best meal was at the Bar Central. They serve what I consider Italian comfort food and for very little money. We did eat at the bar where the locals were watching soccer. It appears to be a popular family place, always crowded. Good pizza. Trattoria Al Vecchio Forno was good but what I most remember about it was all the bottles of wine...stacks and stacks of crates around the restaurant filled with bottles. All unopened waiting to be tasted. Where is next year's trip? We are going to Sicily. Gail |
"Trattoria Al Vecchio Forno was good but what I most remember about it was all the bottles of wine...stacks and stacks of crates around the restaurant filled with bottles. All unopened waiting to be tasted."
We also noticed that, although there were far fewer full bottles after we got through. Yes, I hope my effusive praise doesn't cause a price increase. It already is very popular, as I overheard on many occasions the people at the desk telling people, "We are sold out at that time." I think next year might be a week in Paris for Tracy's birthday, but we are looking at Eastern Europe as our next "long" adventure, perhaps in 2007. ((H)) |
Sigh... wonderful. I want to go to Italy right now!
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I'm voting this thread to the very top of the Best of Travel Talk list!
But you and Marilyn (on another thread), who dare to dangle bits and pieces of your ventures in front of us hungry readers, are driving me crazy! |
Tom, I totally agree with you on the eating thing...I always seem to eat myself silly. I would swear that "tomorrow, I won't eat a thing!" Yep. Think again.
Anyway, the real reason for my post is to beg you to please be sure to post the address for your blog, so we can all check out your pictures! |
Tom and Tracy, you kids sure know how to travel. Enjoying your report immensely. YOUR Padres have disappointed me again but I'm so used to it.
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topping in case the weekenders haven't found this...
Hi Treesa! |
tom, you are doing a great job reporting the hi-lights of our trip. Don't forget our mantra, stolen from Gundlach Bundschu " 4 bottles a day is all we ask!" and the fabulous Italian coffee with steamed milk each morning with little cookies, cream filled butter horns and frittatas to die for. The shampoo at Palazzo del Capitano alone was worth the admission! Write on, oh masterful one!
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Wonderful report, makes me hungry for anything Italy :D It has been six looooong years. Can I book with Tom Tuscan Tours?
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Okay -- you have until noon tomorrow Central Time to get this finished up before I leave for Paris :)
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Sally, people who are leaving tomorrow for Paris do not get to complain about <i>anything</i> -- comprenez-vous? Have a fabulous trip!
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:D
[I couldn't find the cat licking the cream off her chops icon!] I am enjoying this report soooooo much! |
Ooooh, Sally, you are <i>so</i> bad!
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maitaitom,
OK so I guess my family did not drink ALL the wine in Tuscany in September. We, a group of 17, were consuming upwards of ten bottles at each dinner. And slightly less at lunch. We stayed at the Palazzo del Capitano last year at BobTN's recommendation, and we had the Capricorn room. Six wonderful nights. Did all the same trips from there, but we did put our footsies into the soothing warm streams at Bagno Vignoni. Ahhh Italy.... We are returning in April for Holy Week and Easter and some days after. In the mind, in the heart, in the daydreams always. |
Are you guys joking? Oh Sally you're so bad. Get with it, idiots. 'Oh, i destroyed a toilet, i splashed water all over the floor, im sooo naughty'. cop on and GROW UP! fools.....
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Shall i get some needles and thread out for you all? you can all knit and sing 'praise to the lord' while downing the 'vino'. soooo boring here.....fret not, i am here to save the day! twerps
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Maitaitom:
I am loving this report as well. We are planning a trip to Italy in the Spring and want to base in that region. I better call today. Loved the reference to the sulking cat because he can't watch Animal Planet all day! Too funny. Louise |
"Loved the reference to the sulking cat"
He's finally talking to me again, but only after letting him watch the "Top Cat Marathon" on The Cartoon Network. I promise to get back cracking on the report later today, but that darned work thing keeps getting in the way. Thanks for all the nice comments. ((H)) |
"I promise to get back cracking on the report later today, but that darned work thing keeps getting in the way."
Like, hello, <b>priorities</b>??!!! ;-) kidding, kidding... Looking forward to the next installment whenever you are able to get to it. |
<b> DAY TEN – THAT’S THE TICKET, AN AWESOME ABBEY, A SIENA SURPRISE AND “MAN, AM I GLAD I’M NOT THAT DRIVER!” </b>
As the others packed, I walked to where I had parked the rental car, so I could drive back to the hotel and help load the car. As I approached, I wondered, “What’s that on the window?” Yep, it was a parking ticket for parking in a “residential only” parking area. In their one minor lapse, the people at the hotel said it was fine for us to park in that area, but obviously the ticket stated otherwise. The ticket was 35 euros, but by the time I got back to the hotel I decided it wasn’t enough to make a stink about, especially since we loved our time here. It turned out the German guests (who also had a parking ticket) were making stink enough for two. He was getting flustered and talking in rather high decibels, and the girl at the desk called a couple of places to see what she could do to help. I just put my ticket next to theirs on the desk and waited for the eventual outcome. I had made up my mind while listening to her on the phone that if we had to pay, then we’ll pay. Remember, “Attitude is everything!” Obviously our German friends had a different mindset, because when she got off the phone and softly said, “You both have to pay the ticket,” he picked up the ticket and threw it back on the desk. As his face reddened, he replied (well, kind of yelled) in no uncertain terms he wasn’t paying. He then stormed off (he had another night to stay, so I don’t know how it was resolved, but needless to say his day was pretty much spoiled …not by the ticket, but how it had affected him). The girl at the desk said she would take it over to the police station and get it paid, and then she apologized again. No problem, we said, and packed the car, which was now even more cluttered thanks to the stuff that Tracy had bought in the lobby (soaps and other beauty stuff) for people who were helping to take care of the house while we were gone. I guess I could have been like the other guest, but why ruin a day over 35 Euros, which would eventually just be tacked on to the dreaded Europcar bill. Kim and Mary were also nice enough to split it with us, so no big deal. We drove to Siena via the Crete Road. On this road was the Monte Oliveta Maggiore. Nestled in a forest of cypress trees, this abbey turned out to be one of our favorite detours of the trip. The church itself was beautiful, but the frescoes in the loggia that run around the Chiostro Grande were spectacular. We (well, except for Kim who had donned a pair of shorts on this morning), visited all the rooms and received a nice explanation of the place from a docent-type person. Afterward, we visited the on-site pharmacy where herbal medicines made by the monks are sold. I was more interested in the non-herbal Vin Santo they sold, so Tracy grabbed me quickly, and we were on our way. We made a quick stop in Asciano and the Basilica di Saint’Agata. After walking around town, it was on to Siena. The Crete Road was interesting to a degree, but it didn’t quite grab me like some of our other previous drives, but I’m sure it was a more interesting drive than the main highway. As we approached Siena, we saw the signs for the Porta Romano, and a couple of blocks before it lay our next hotel, Piccolo Hotel Oliveta. Even though this hotel has received some nice reviews, I am afraid I cannot give it much of a recommendation, if at all. I’ll give you the plusses first. It is located just outside the walls, has parking and in the evening has spectacular views over the Tuscan countryside. Alexandra is a very nice host who is most accommodating, and they have some interesting tours if you don’t have a car. On the negative side, the rooms are pretty worn, and the beds were the worst of the trip (not terrible, but not good either). I didn’t so much care that the shower was on one side of the room and the bathroom the other, but some might. Much of the time, the first bursts of water emitted from the faucets had an uncomfortable brown color coming out. It was told to us that this hotel will have a management change in the next 12 -18 months, so no upgrades could be expected during this time. I must admit it was a letdown, but at 125 Euros, you make the call. Kim, Mary, Tracy and I had based in Siena in 2001, and to be honest were not impressed so much with the town. On that trip, we took trips to San Gimignano and Volterra (which we loved) and spent much of our Siena time at the Palazzo Ravizza hotel, which we also loved. The town just seemed dark and Gothic to us. We had vowed to come back and give it a little more time. I’m glad we did. We all walked to the Campo, and we ate at two different locales. After lunch on the Campo at the aptly named Ristorante Il Campo (a very good penne pasta with vodka for 9E), Tracy and I hooked up with Kim and Mary to tour the Duomo. This was a special time of year, and the mosaics on the floor of the Duomo (plus you could go in the crypt underneath – which we would do the next day) were there in all their glory for everyone to see. The audioguide was invaluable, and the whole experience turned out to be a terrific surprise. We spent almost two hours in the Duomo. The most amazing part of the entire place to me was the Librera Piccolomini, which features ten huge frescoes by Pinturicchio and his assistants that cover the ceiling and walls. The audioguide describes each fresco, and it is quite entertaining and enlightening. Then we went across the street to the Museo dell'Opera Metropolitana (had a combo ticket), which not only had some cool art and statues, but stairs to the top of the “new” Duomo. As always, it was onward and UPWARD. There were some spectacular views, so I knew I had to walk up to the top of the Torre Mangia of the Palazzo Pubblico (and its 503 stairs) before we left Siena. The rest of the group already was coming up with “sore feet” excuses for tomorrow. Then came a driving experience I was glad I was no part of, except as a bystander. Walking back to the hotel, we got to see a man behind the wheel (looked like a rental car) receive the wrath of many of Siena’s drivers. A befuddled driver (trust me, I know that look also), had strayed into a right hand turn lane, changed his mind, and like Robert Blake, was now attempting to go straight. He finally was able to maneuver his car so that the many honking cars behind him could get moving and make a right turn on the arrow. For those of you who saw the movie Airplane, you might recall where people on the aircraft line up to attack a whining passenger. The next few moments in Siena reminded us all of that scene. As cars pulled to the offending driver’s right to ostensibly turn, they would all stop, give him a stare, a hand signal of unknown origin, a flurry of honks of the horn and, finally, an impressive array and barrage of Italian expletives were yelled at the guy. The light for the wrong-lane guy seemed to stay red for an hour as car after car, and driver after driving stopped alongside the hapless man to give him a strong piece of their collective minds. One “outraged” driver was particularly demonstrative in his actions. He yelled for ten seconds, but to his ultimate chagrin, as he tried to peel away around the corner, he stalled his car. The wrong-lane guy loved that, and when the light turned green, he had a smile from ear to ear knowing he had received the last laugh. There had been a wedding at our hotel that afternoon, and a large New York contingent from that ceremony was also staying at the hotel. More on them tomorrow. The four of us shared some Prosecco before dinner and then walked back to town later for dinner at Ristorante Nello, which had been recommended by the hotel. After a while, the owner (Nello) sat at our table, chatted with us and took our order. The menu was an eclectic mix of Asian-Italian, and the food turned out to be quite good. I really enjoyed my cubed beef in a Chianti reduction sauce, served with basmati rice. After dinner, we walked to Il Campo and bought some delicious cookies on the square. The guy in the shop was handing out free glasses of Grappa. For those who have not tried it, Grappa is alcohol to the third power. If you decide to try it, I do recommend that you not smoke at the same time, or you might become an instant combustible agent. I had booked four nights at the Piccolo Oliveta, but as the director of Tom’s Tuscan Tours, I sensed the group might be happier if we could make this a shorter stay than our original plan, but what could I do? Fortunately, everything, as it usually does with the right attitude, would turn out great. <b> TOMORROW – AN AMAZING FIND IN THE HILLS OF CHIANTI, THE STAIRS THAT BROKE OUR FEET AND A FODORITE SIGHTING AT CANE Y GATTO </b> ((H)) |
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