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What a treat to sit down and read this, have some laughs and know there is more to come.
Welcome back Tom and Thank you :) |
Enjoying your adventures! Waiting for more.
MY |
Laughing my way through your report!!
"the guy was driving on the wrong side of the road" - Don't you know it's not the wrong side of the road in London? It may be not the "right" side but this is the "correct" side :) |
It was tongue in cheek Faina!!
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This is my first maitaitom trip report. Loving it - keep up the good reporting.
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Hi Cobbie, doesn't Tom's report make you want to go rushing back to Italy, even if one has to sit in coach, LOL.
I can hardly wait for the next segment of this report, including the trashed rental car (oh my) and the camera at the bottom of the canal in Venice. Take care. |
Joining the crowd waiting for the next installment. Here's hoping Italy has calmed down since the return of Maitaitom for the sake of the rest of us travelers ;;) Deborah
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Drumming my fingers impatiently beside the keyboard waiting for the next installment to appear. This is a priceless trip report. Thanks, Tom!
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More please :)
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<i>At one point, Tracy, Kim and Mary actually tried to push the car backwards into the parking space</i>
Absolutely hilarious! I nearly spit out my coffee... Picturing it made me laugh out loud!!! :D I can't wait for the next installment! |
Tom, your raising my blood pressure. I don't think all this suspense is good for me! Welcome back and please hurry with the rest of the report! I was sitting here only yesterday thinking it was far too long since we'd been to Italy...
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Great report, we have the "hill towns" on our list of places to go, so I'm looking forward to the rest of your report. The "reverse" thing happened to me when I rented a car in Germany many moons ago. Drove all the way to the hotel, then had to back up to park and couldn't, for the life of me figure out how, no one spoke English in the hotel, it was quite comical, especially being jet lagged and all. The lesson I learned, when we rent cars now in Europe I always ask them to show me how to put the car in reverse!
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This is great, Tom. Looking forward to more!
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Hey! We share the reverse difficulty too--
We spend half of our second day in Italy driving to Perugia to the closed rental car office (we were staying in Chiusi) to have someone look at the "problem" with our car...only to have the gal easily pop it in reverse. With egg on our faces we then asked how she did that.... Now we ALL know. (And the 1st day we had purposely parked where we would be able to pull out :) ) |
<b> DAY 4 - IT’S ALL UPHILL FROM HERE </b>
After breakfast at the PB, we were off on the road to Spoleto (the forgotten Hope-Crosby movie). On the way, we stopped to take pictures of a cute hill town we thought (by the signage nearby) was Foligno. The girl at the desk had told us there would be a wine festival in Foligno that night, and we decided we would check it out later on the way back. We drove to the old town of Spoleto (well, I guess they are ALL old towns) and parked. We hiked up to the top of town (our first inkling of how our feet were to feel for the next 19 days). If we had so chosen, we could have paid 20 Euros apiece to join in the Spoleto Wine Festival, which consisted of taking your glass to various venues and consuming mass quantities of wine. Since it was only 10:30 in the morning, we determined that could be a huge tactical mistake. We just missed the tour at Rocca Albornoziana, the place where Lucrezia Borgia was sent to get away from her second husband (I guess she was tired of those wacky orgies she had with her own father and brother). Instead we walked to the Ponte delle Torri, a bridge built on an old Roman aqueduct. The views from here of the valley behind Spoleto were spectacular. After spending some time taking in the natural wonders, we headed toward Spoleto’s Duomo. They were just ending Sunday Mass, so we waited nicely and quietly in the back. A woman showed up inside the Duomo with a wine glass tied around her neck (obviously part of the wine tour, at least I hoped so). Suddenly the phrase “drinking Mass quantities of wine” took on quite another connotation. In the process of departing Spoleto, and for the first time since I had picked up the car, I drove the wrong way on a one-way street. Obviously the Spoletons had been warned of our arrival, and fortunately there was no carnage. Speaking of wine (and, if you remember, I was), we headed toward Montefalco, the home of Sagrantino and Sagrantino Passito, its famous wines. We were told that the Sagrantino grape (from which these wines are made) is a grape found in the Montefalco region only, and that Syrian monks might have introduced it in the 7th century. Since we were hungry, I didn’t question whether that was true or not. We dined at a local haunt (at least it seemed like a haunt) called Il Falisco. It had gotten chilly and foggy outside, so the respite was nice, and we lunched on a couple of risottos, a spaghetti dish, and some noodles with wild asparagus. There was a cool fireplace (hmm, is that an oxymoron) where they grilled meats. Even though I had just learned about Sagrantino, we decided on the House Red (a 2002 Roccadi Fabn’ Montefalco Rosso) for 12 Euros. After lunch, we walked to Santa Chiara, the church where Montefalco’s patron saint, Clare, lies in a transparent casket. The church was dark and quiet, and we were the only people inside. We saw Clare’s body, and I told the group we could knock on the door, and, according to something I read, the nuns could show us the remains of her heart, three of her gallstones (which represent the Trinity) and the scissors that were used to cut out her heart. Since we had just finished lunch, they decided to let the remainder of Clare rest in peace. The “Walking Brits” from the Palazzo Bocci had told us not to miss the little town of Bevagna, because it was “special.” So we went there next. Bevagna was a definitely a cute town. On the town’s Piazza Silvestri are two gigantic churches. We went into the Basilica di San Silvestro, built in 1195. I had read that Prince Charles had been stumping to get money to help restore the church, but there was no sign of him. Since it was late afternoon, we thought it might be fun to drive to the charming town we believed to be Foligno. Once we got inside the city limits of Foligno, we realized this was definitely not the charming town on the hill, but a bigger city that was getting us more lost by the moment. Well, I was actually getting us lost, but when I can blame an entire town, I do. Just when we thought we were lost for sure, Tracy saw the sign for the road to our hometown of Spello. We hightailed it back to the Bocci wondering what the heck was the name of that mysterious hill town we had photographed earlier in the day, but decided that two more bottles of wine on the patio would make that a moot question. We had come to the conclusion we would like to try La Cantina Ristorante in Spello for dinner, which had been recommended to us. The welcome was lukewarm at best, and we just did not feel a good vibe in the place. It was very, very quiet with lots of long, drawn-out faces (perhaps they were just a bunch of people who couldn’t figure out how to get their cars in reverse, I thought). Anyway, after a few minutes we made a quick group decision and headed back to Il Molino. Heck, it would be new to Mary (who had been Ambien-free for more than 24 hours), and we were very happy with our meal the previous evening. (One correction from the first night report…that great honeydew melon was actually in a Zuppa de Frutta, a fantastic dessert of honeydew, grapes, kiwi and peaches in a mint-type sauce) On this night, the spectacular dish was a Filet with caramelized balsamic that Kim and I ordered. It was spectacular. Tracy had another steak she deemed too rare, and Kim (Mr. Chivalry) changed dishes with her (I would have been chivalrous had I not already eaten my entire steak). It was complemented nicely by a 2003 Montefalco Rosso Scacciadiavoloi (which took us less time to drink than to spell) for 13 Euros. After I received a lecture on chivalry, we got to bed early because the next day our feet were going to get their first real test on the hilly streets of Assisi. <b> TOMORROW: HEY, DON’T BE ASSISI, IT’S ONLY A HILL; AND THE 47-MINUTE PERUGIAN TOUR </b> ((H)) |
Such an enjoyable read on a rainy Friday evening!
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I am just sitting here like a crazy person laughing. It must be an American thing with stick shifts. Same thing happened to us in Ireland. And the First Class, no better way to go. All those business trips my hubby takes, sweet man, I just never want to sit in "chicken or beef" again. Looking foward to the rest of your report. Italy here I come in November for my third trip in 3 years. I realize I need to win the lottery.
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Tom:
I am loving this – thank you! I am so sorry I was not here to answer your question about finding the hotel in Spello. I have been so busy at work, and traveling also, that I have been off the board for some time. OK: re finding reverse on a FIAT: THAT I could have helped you with. I had the same problem the very first time I rented a car in Europe (in France). After 15 minutes of blind panic, I consulted the manual in the glove compartment and was able to figure it out through the pictures and my high-school French. What I learned from this and other car misadventures (and there have been MANY): I NEVER leave the car rental place without first being able to reverse, adjust mirrors, use the headlights, open the gas-tank … Looking forward to more. Regards Ger |
"I consulted the manual in the glove compartment and was able to figure it out."
GER, I figured you were really busy. Ah, if we'd only had a manual in the car. Well, we're nearly to the death of the car. Tracy said that after Day 6, I should combine areas where we stayed, or this report would last longer than our vacation. More later. ((H)) |
I for one don't mind it if your report lasts for as long or longer than your vacation.
"Speaking of wine (and, if you remember, I was)" We know that if you're not actually "speaking of wine" you're certainly thinking of wine! |
My guess is that the "cute hill town we thought (by the signage nearby) was Foligno" was probably Trevi - well-worth a visit.
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Tuck. You advance to the bonus round. I will tell you about my Trevi driving error in the next report.
((H)) |
Thanks,maitaitom, for brightening up this dismal, never-ending rainy day. Your report is making me laugh in spite of the weather.
That first class experience - ah, I remember it well! It's something with those reclining seats to beds and more room than you can imagine. I was delighted when they handed us a menu, complete with information about the chef, to select our meal choices. I do hope to fly to Italy like that again before I get too old to notice that I'm in first class. Tell us more about your trip! |
maitaitom, I am so loving your report....hilarious! I can't wait for the next chapter!
I had to laugh at the reversal problem, as we had the exact same problem in Germany this May. We got to Rothenburg and couldn't reverse our car. And yes, hubby and I tried the "push" technique as well...try as we might, it did not work. Oh well...nothing that an angry phone call to Avis couldn't fix. And here I thought we were the only ones! Tracy |
Ahhh....wonderful, and such fun! This is the first time all week that I am happy our computer crashed for four days because I got to read a bunch of the report without the agonizing wait the others have had to endure. :S- Of course, now I must join the masses waiting to be thrown a bone.
Thanks for the laughs and the great info. |
Ahhhhhh, don't worry about the car Tom, they didn't come up with FIAT by chance "F"-ix "I"t "A"gain, "T"ony !
<2003 Montefalco Rosso Scacciadiavoloi, which took us less time to drink than to spell> Wine is a beautiful thing, isn't it?? Still laughing more than the law allows, many thanks. Cin, cin. ~Tiff |
I'm topping b/c I'm ready for the next installment, Tom ;)
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Hi Tom, keep it up, it's still raining here. i don't drive but am the map reader but what bugs me is figuring out how some radios work.
Marianna, I missed you not being at todays lunch at the Boston GTG. |
Keep the great report coming.
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What a super fine report! You really know how to travel in style. Where to next?
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Thanks everyone! I will pump out a few more today after my Sunday breakfast of pasta and espresso (with some grappa in it). I wonder where my mind is this morning?
((H)) |
<b> DAY 5 - HEY, DON’T BE ASSISI, IT’S ONLY A HILL; AND THE 47-MINUTE PERUGIAN TOUR </b>
After another nice Palazzo Bocci breakfast, the four intrepid travelers got in the car for the quick 15-minute drive to Assisi. We parked in the upper lot in a covered parking area, and started walking toward the Basilica di San Francesco. We obviously took the route less traveled. We passed residences, and I soon had us on a path that the rest of the group thought might head in the wrong direction. Stubbornly I pressed on and fortunately we were on the right path to the Basilica. However, when I turned around again, it seemed I was alone (so much for Chivalry 101). I got to the Basilica and waited for about 20 minutes until I saw the group heading toward me. They had made a little wrong turn and wondered why I had strayed so far ahead. As usual, I had no good answer. The four of us had been here before nearly five years earlier, but wanted to return to give Assisi more time. We toured the Lower and Upper Church and walked down to the crypt that contains the venerated stone coffin of St. Francis. The entire experience is quite remarkable, even for a pseudo-Presbyterian like me. Afterward, we walked through the town. Amazingly, every sight we wanted to see was uphill (or so it seemed to our tired legs). We saw the church where St. Francis was baptized, the Roman Temple of Minerva, and after a quick bite to eat, we walked into the Santa Chiara, home of the bones of St. Clare (the more famous of the two St. Clares) and the crucifix that supposedly talked to St. Francis. My favorite fact about Clare is that she is the patron saint of television, although rumor has it that she disavows any knowledge of the Fox News Channel or UPN. We had spent about four hours meandering the streets of Assisi, and when we got to the car, I saw a picture I had brought with me of a set of steps I wanted to see in Perugia. For some bizarre reason, I wanted to go to these steps. So we set off for Perugia, and wound our way up, up, up and parked in a nice little square with a statue in the middle. Besides the steps, Perugia was on my radar only because of its unique and rather sordid history. In the bad old days, the ancient Perugians would dress up in deer hides and beaked helmets before summarily stoning each other to death. Now, that’s entertainment! Three popes were also poisoned to death here, so I figured we should at least make a quick stop. And a quick stop it would have to be. We only had enough change for 47 minutes of parking, so armed only with a picture of some steps and not knowing if we were anywhere near those steps, we started on our quest (well, it was actually my quest, but since I was driving it also became a group quest. I started asking completely strangers, “Dove” and pointed to the picture. My first few inquires were met with puzzlement. Time was winding down. Finally at the Fontana Maggiore in the Piazza IV Novembre, I saw a tour group. I asked the very pretty leader about the steps, and she told me it was a five-minute walk to see them. Amazingly, we found the steps, took some pretty cool pictures, and I relaxed having completed the quest. Tracy then said, “I guess our next quest should be to get back to the car because we don’t have much time left.” I had completely forgotten that we only had a few minutes left, and no one really remembered what time we had parked. Sure enough, when we got back to the car, there was one minute left before we would receive a ticket, and there was a carbineri waiting very near our car to do just that. As we drove toward Spello, we started thinking about the town we thought was Foligno the day before. We had figured out it was Trevi, so we decided just to drive and take a quick look before we got back to the Palazzo Bocci. Trevi looked like a cute town, and I thought I saw a wide-open parking lot with empty spaces galore. As I drove into the “lot”, Tracy exclaimed, “Tom, you idiot (an endearing expression I have heard quite often during the past 15 years), you are driving on the town square.” Sure enough, a few local Trevians looked on in awe as I drove in a bizarre circuitous route on their traffic-free square, a spot only seconds before where they were spending a pleasant Monday afternoon. I immediately surmised it was time for us to head back to Spello for the requisite wine break before dinner. We had dinner at Il Pinturicchio in Spello. It was another nice meal. We all went to bed knowing that tomorrow we would head to our new hometown, St. Quirico d’Orcia via a stop in Gubbio and a ride up the “Bucket of Bolts.” Unknown to us at the time, we would also have to bid farewell to our means of transportation for the past few days. <b> TOMORROW: DEATH OF A RENTAL CAR </b> ((H)) |
Enjoying my evening trip through Italy. Can't wait for tomorrow!
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Terrific, tom.
>... there was a carbineri ...< Shouldn't that be "carabinierO"? Was he combing his hair and checking how he looked in your car mirror? ((I)) |
LOL! Tom did you read about the death of our rental car last year? 2004
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What great timing Tom, I just poured a glass of Shiraz :)
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ttt
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Hi Tom,
We almost killed ourselves and our rental car last February in Germany. Fortunately all survived in our case although I am quite sure we were thoroughly cursed by several Germans who were likely scared to death my DH's driving... ;-) Looking forward to more!! |
>>there was one minute left before we would receive a ticket, and there was a carbineri waiting very near our car to do just that.<<
We've parked our car in metered zones dozens of times and many of these times we were very tardy in our return. Having never suffered any consequences nor, for that matter, seen an agent enforcing the law, we gradually slipped into the honor system. If I happened to have some coinage I'd send it in to the meter; if not, so be it... |
Thanks Tom, l'm lovin' the serialized travelogue! (You evidently learned a thing or two from Mr Charles Dickens.)
We too had that great Reverse Conundrum when renting a car in England (a Renault, I think). Pulled into a shopping area parking lot where we knew we could get out without reversing, and frantically called the rental office to find out the trick. (Why don't they put a card with the info in the glove compartment? Does anyone keep gloves in the glove compartment??) Now experience has taught us to check for reverse, gas tank locks, wipers and headlight controls before we drive merrily on our way. A guy I know well (;-)) had enough travel savvy to remember that when he parked the car in a strange city in Italy, he should write down the street name so he could find his way back there. He carefully wrote "Senso Unico"... :-) More episodes please, Tom. This is way more fun than working (must be time to plan another Italy trip). |
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