Possibly the chicken sandwiches are so good because of the bread in Italy. It is not possible to get the same kind of bread here in the US even if it is baked by Italians with the good Italian receipes. Our flour, water etc. is different.

I eat sandwiches but not overly enthused about them but in Italy I love the sandwiches! Again I truly believe it is the various breads. Just my thought.

Now Tom, more of your trip report please..it is so enjoyable.

<b> DAY 16 - GALILEO GIVES KIM AND MARY THE FINGER, A MUSEUM OFF THE BEATEN PATH, THE ELUSIVE CHICKEN SANDWICH, RACING FOR THE SUNSET, MY FAVORITE RESTAURANT OF THE TRIP
AND
INTRODUCING DAN AND LINDA SHARING TRAGIC TALES OF A SUNKEN CAMERA AND THE MOST EXPENSIVE FISH IN THE WORLD </b>

We all woke up late, and, the couples went our separate ways to a couple of lesser-known Florence attractions. Kim and Mary went to the Museo di Storia del Scienza. The one reason I almost went there was to see one of the museum’s more offbeat attractions, Galileo’s finger (Let’s see if you drop a finger and a hand from the Leaning Tower of Pisa, will they….).

Tracy and I decided to visit the Chapel and Museum San Marco. While in the chapel, I believe I was scammed by the old Fake-Priest trick. He was sitting inside in priest-like garb (hey, I’m a Presbyterian, what do I know?) After I gave him a two euro donation, he opened up his priest outfit and showed me an “I Love the USA” pin. Oh well, I hope he spent it wisely.

The museum was fantastic with interesting frescoes by Fra Angelico, and we saw the tiny rooms where monks lived in the old days. This is a museum in desperate need of an audio tour, but I highly recommend it, and buy the eight euro book first. The tour is only four euros.

Then came another Tom Moment of Terror. I looked at my watch and it was 11:30 am. The chicken sandwiches had been waiting for us for ½ an hour. We hustled over to Caf&eacute; Giacosa, and there was only one left. We bought it, and took it to the nearby bridge. Trading bites, it was if we were about to lose a long lost member of the family, so before the ultimate demise, I got the camera out and shot a picture of the half eaten sandwich with its Cage Giacosa wrapping.

We strolled along the Arno on another beautiful Florence day, went over to the church of Santa Croce where Galileo (sans one finger) is interred. When we got back to the THG, the clothes were still a little wet, so we took them to the Laundromat down the street and dried them.

We got back to the room and soon we heard a knock. Mary told us that they had run into our friends Dan and Linda (“hey aren’t you..” ) in front of the hotel, and they were now in the lobby. Dan and Linda had gone to Oktoberfest in Munich and then trained to Salzburg and Venice before meeting us here. Besides wanting to say hello, we were interested in La Calcina in Venice, our hotel the next three nights after we were to leave Florence. They had stayed for three nights, and they loved it.

They were in good spirits, except that Linda also had the cough from Hell on the trip. Dan and Linda eased into the wine and cheese thing in a hurry, and the four of us along with Mary downed some vino. Kim was on his international cell doing some work. Little did I know that in about 15 minutes, I’d be huffing and puffing like I was going to have a heart attack.

Kim came out from his work mode and said, “Hey, it’s getting dark, aren’t we going to go down to the Arno and take some sunset pictures?” We had talked about this earlier, but I had completely forgotten (sort of like the chicken sandwich).

It was time for speed walking. I’ve known Kim since we were freshmen in college in 1970, and we weren’t all that fast in those days. On the vacation, he and Tracy usually walk at a slower pace while Mary and I blaze the trail. Not today.

Kim started walking faster than Karl Rove trying to dodge a subpoena. Then it was more of a sprint (well, an old man’s sprint) toward the Arno. We passed Santa Croce on the left, and after a quick wave to Galileo, it was down to the river. We took some shots of the Ponte Vechio, but Kim (aka Jessie Owens), had just begun. We walked at a brisk pace to the Ponte Vecchio and took some really neat sunset shots from there. At this point, Dan and Linda were probably wondering what they were getting into by hooking up with this bunch.

While Tracy sat out Pisa the day before, she had discovered a little restaurant near the Duomo called Ristorante Il Caminetto, and I made nine o’clock reservations with the owner previously on this day. I was excited because I had only spoken Italian to him (ok, with a little help from a waiter), and reserved a table on the patio for six. I had hoped I had said all the right things and had not booked a table for Christmas.

Sure enough, our table was ready at 9 pm, and this turned out to be my favorite restaurant on the trip. The inside of the restaurant is very charming, but the evening was nice (a little chilly, but they have heat lamps) and we had really wanted to dine outside.

My meal was as good as it got on the trip, and that includes Ristoro di Lamole along with Cane &amp; Gatto in Siena. I started off with the pumpkin risotto, which was absolutely unbelievable (Tracy has a recipe she is going to share with the board in the next few days).

The waiter was very excited when I ordered the evening’s special the beef del Imprunetta (that might be a little off, but the 9 euro, one litre wines were going fast and furious this night). The dish is a peppery beef stew in a Chianti sauce that they don’t serve very often, but he felt it was the best dish of the night, and it was.

Not that anyone had a bad meal, but my two dishes were spectacular, so it became my Numero Uno restaurant of the trip. It was so good that Dan and Linda ate there two nights later, and said it was just as terrific. Total cost for the six of is was 168 euro.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot the incredible side dish. The roasted rosemary potatoes here are incredible. The table ordered extra helpings. Sort of like the chicken sandwich, it doesn’t sound that spectacular, but take my word for it, if you go here, order them.

During the evening Dan and Linda regaled us with stories from their trip to Oktoberfest, Salzburg and Venice. They had quite a fun time at Oktoberfest and fell in love with Salzburg.

It seemed that Dan was having a little trouble with cameras, however. His digital had bit the dust before he got to Venice, so wanting to take some pictures while there, he bought a little disposable camera to take up the slack. He was nearing the end of the role at the Bridge of Sighs. As he positioned himself for his final picture, one of the women on their first part of the journey accidentally hit his elbow. Needless to say, Dan has no pictures of Venice and the canal has another tourist souvenir camera. As it turned out, Sighs mattered!

But that was not his costliest moment. After departing the train in Venice, Dan and his group were a hungry bunch, and they saw a restaurant as they departed the train station. He ordered the turbot, and, he said it was a nice piece of fish.

Unfortunately for Danno, he had not noticed that the fish was sold by the gram, and this fish must have had a hell of a lot of grams, because it cost our fine diner a total of $200 Euro for his fish dish. He said it was fruitless to argue, and he actually had a good laugh over it. Well, probably not right at that moment.

“You know, I don’t think I can ever eat a piece of turbot for the rest of my life, “ Dan told us at dinner.

I replied, “Look at the bright side. You fish was less expensive than our tank of gas in Gubbio.” Vino, at a good price, can make anything seem humorous.

NOTE: Dan called this evening and could not find the receipt (I feel his pain), but did say they will look it up tomorrow and get me the info.

Back at the hotel, Dan said he would get up early to say good-bye before we headed to the train for Venice the next morning. Linda made no such promise knowing they would hook up with us for the last three days of the trip in Rome.

<b> TOMORROW – SUNNY VENEZIA, UP ON THE ROOF, THE FOUR SEASONS WITHOUT FRANKIE VALLI AND REALLY, REALLY THE WORLD’S MOST EXPENSIVE FISH </b>
((H))

thanks, tom, for such an entertaining, informative trip report! Like everyone else, I am really enjoying it! (and taking notes!!!)

Thanks. Supposedly the restaurant with the most expensive fish ever bought was found in a Rick Steves' guide, of all places. Stay tuned. I don't think my total fish conumption in my life has totaled $200.
((H))

I am so enjoying this report as I finalize the details for my trip in December. I have made the itinerary and booked hotels and some restaurants and am now thinking about other details. After all the wonderful vino you bought and consumed, did you buy any to bring back? I know you live in CA, as do I, and think there may be a 2 litre limit per person, but I'm not sure. I had posted a different thread about buying ceramics and heard a story about an additional $65 duty being tacked onto a dish that was sent from Italy. I'd like a good understanding of the duty situation before I start using my Visa card all over Italy. Also, you mentioned Kim using an international cell phone. I have T-Mobile and have already had them &quot;unlock&quot; the chip. I was planning on getting a phone card in Italy and using an Italian number. Is this going to work and is it cost-effective? Did Kim do something different? The whole phone thing is a challenge for me. Thanks for your advice.

What a wonderful trip report, Tom. The antipasti description at the Cane and Gatto made my mouth water and I was reading at 6 a.m. What can I say, the antipasti is/are my passion. Looking forward to more and to some photographs, please. I've been thinking that this thread and the Diva thread couldn't be more different. Attitude is indeed everything, and you've renewed my faith in the good traveler. Blessings on you and yours. J.

Reading this makes me laugh and I have only gotten to the car. When I was in Holland afew years back my friend who was living there sent me to pick up my rental car alone. The rental agent asked if I could drive a manual and I said yes.

When I drove away I felt proud of myself until I discovered I needed to turn around and couldn't put the car in reverse. I had to drive over a nice Dutch family's lawn. I then went to the supermarket and parked as far away as I could so no one would park next to me. I got back to the house and felt incredibly stupid until all the americans that were working with my friend had the same problem. He apologized for forgetting to tell me. :)

Great report. I can't wait to read the rest.

maitaitom... where are you?!?!?

Hey Mate, it's raining and thundering here and was hoping more of your report to keep my mind off this bad weather..

Hi everyone. I have been in Atlanta on business and just got back to So. Cal. this morning. I'll finish up this week.

sharkmom, regarding the phone. I talked with Kim's assistant who set up the whole thing. She said the cost was $3.99 a day plus $1.49 per minute and was received through World Roam Verizon UK. They have a toll free U.S. number 888-309-8560. They mail the phone to you and send a box to ship back after you get back.

I would never have brought a phone, but it turned out handy when we put in the wrong gas and needed EuropCar assistance and getting directions to Tourist House Ghiberti. Kim called the U.S. often on business. The reception on the calls were good.

More later. I promise this report will end before Thanksgiving.
((H))

Tom, glad you're back! Can't wait for more. It's such a bummer when life/work gets in the way of a good story ;-)

Yes, I was worried about you. I feared you had gotten the bill for the car, passed out, and hit your head.

Work! No excuse! Look at the rest of us (so many fodorites post from work it's scary...).

Please don't make us wait until practically Thanksgiving for the next installment. I need some entertainment before the holiday weirdness begins.

&quot;I feared you had gotten the bill for the car, passed out, and hit your head.&quot;

No, but we did down a bottle of Chianti to ease the pain. Fortunately, it looks like Tracy and I will not go into debt over the rental car fiasco. The bill was fair.

I will start up again tomorrow. I still have Venice and Rome to go. I will also get out that pumpkin risotto recipe Tracy has come up with. Quite delicious. We're having trouble perfecting the pecorino ravioli, though. Help! I'm going through ravioli withdrawal.

My goal is to finish the report this weekend. Thanks for the nice (and funny) inquiries.
((H))

Loved the waiter who reported, &quot;I am the wine list&quot; - as indeed the maitai, c'est toi.

You can't finish the report, though, without fessing up to the crush you had on Karen Valentine...

Enjoying the whole thing immensely, I only hope you aren't getting writer's cramp (or should that be, typist's tendonitis....)

&quot;You can't finish the report, though, without fessing up to the crush you had on Karen Valentine...&quot;

Yes, I admit it! I feel better now. All I could think when watching Room 222 was, &quot;Why don't I have teachers that look like that?&quot;
((H))

Tom, was it you who slipped into the canal another year?

Your wonderful trip report makes mention of a soup restaurant in Chiusi - I'd love to hear more about it as I'm going to be there with friends to pick up our rental car &amp; we could arrange it for around lunchtime if recommended...thanks for the entertaining trip report!

&quot;Your wonderful trip report makes mention of a soup restaurant in Chiusi&quot;

darkforcemom, thanks for the nice comments, but we did not visit Chiusi, so if I mentioned it in this trip report, I must have drank more Brunello than I recall (well, I'm sure I did that anyway). There have been a lot of Italy trip reports lately, so you must be thinking of someone elses report or, perhaps, another town. We did have some good soups along the way.

And cigale, I have never slipped into a canal. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.
((H))

I guess I was the one drinking the Brunello! It was Katerbug who mentioned the soup restaurant in Chiusi while responding to your trip - perhaps she'll read this and help answer my question. Thanks for the clarification...now I'm off to wash my wine glass.

Unfortunately for me, I must travel with the darn phone (so I can remain tethered to the office even when I think I am not) The daily rental seems reasonable but the $1.49/minute will be a killer. I have a T-Mobile phone and am going to see what others know about this, posting a different thread since it's off point from your wonderful travel account. I just wanted to thank you for the info, so if need be I can use the Verizon UK alternative

<b> SUNNY VENEZIA, UP ON THE ROOF, THE FOUR SEASONS AND BELLINILESS IN VENEZIA </b>

Dan greeted us at breakfast, and we said goodbye to the Tourist House Ghiberti. Linda, true to her word, was sleeping like a log. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at the hotel and highly recommend for price, location and hospitality.

Our train arrived in Venice a little before noon, and we were very cognizant of any restaurant near the train station touting turbot, since $200 for a piece of fish is a tad above my budget.
NOTE: Dan and Linda are awaiting the credit card bill for the fish to find out the exact name of the restaurant. It is located near the train station, and Dano told me to tell future visitors, “Beware of a limping waiter pushing the turbot on the menu.”

A little digression about Venice: Our first visit to Venice was in 1996 and we hated it. I called it, “Disneyland on speed.” We had taken the Vaporetto to San Marco, and I remember thinking, “What do people see in this place?” Souvenir vendors, the plethora of pigeons and the enormous amounts of people were overwhelming. The day was rainy, and we were happy to get out and go back to Padua where we were staying.

Over the years, Tracy and I thought that there had to be something we missed about Venice because so many people love it. So, in 2001, we returned (with Kim and Mary) and found out what we missed on the first trip…nighttime in Venice. We stayed on Dorsoduro at the Pension Accademia. We loved Venice on that trip.

Venice at night was magical, and we stayed away from Piazza San Marco during the day except to go to the Basilica di San Marco and the Doges Palace (which we loved). We meandered the streets and alleys, and after that trip, decided that Venice would be a place we could come back to in the future. Often.

This year, after reading so many great recommendations about it, we had booked La Calcina, also on Dorsoduro. We got off the Vaporetto, walked over a little bridge, and there was the hotel a short distance away. It turned out to be just as nice as the reviews we had read before departing.

Our rooms both had balconies, which offered a snippet of a canal view. But the hotel also has a balcony on top that you can reserve. It was an incredibly beautiful day, so we reserved an hour at 6 pm (Vino time).

After settling in, Kim and Mary went to have lunch toward San Marco, but since we were told this was going to be the only blue sky day while we were here, Tracy and I decided to eat a couple of doors down the canal on the water. Lunch was OK, but just sitting and soaking in the sun and the view was spectacular.

I had not remembered so many cruise ships the last time we were here, but on this day there seemed to be no shortage of them. Fortunately, we did not see any pirates.

On the way to converge with Kim and Mary, Tracy and I stopped at a nice little church (Chiesa San Vidal) a short distance after walking over the Ponte dell Accademia. On the train that morning I had asked Tracy if she would be up for a little classical musical if we could find a concert. I had mentioned that I would really like to hear The Four Seasons. When Tracy asked whether Frankie Valli was still with them, I knew that my warped sense of humor had now affected her brain permanently.

Well, luck was with us. There was a concert on this evening and it was The Four Seasons, Vivaldi-style. It only cost 23 euros apiece, so we got tickets for the 9 pm performance.

We met Kim and Mary at San Marco later in the afternoon, and the four of us took turns leading the others down streets leading to who knows where? That, to me, is part of the great allure of Venice. I was a little disappointed because the signage seems better than before, meaning it is a little more difficult to get lost (at least while sober).

We got back to the hotel, and while the rest of the team took a little nap, I decided to walk to the little wine store nearby. It’s funny, at home, if Tracy wants to walk around the block at night, it takes an act of Congress to get me off my butt. In Italy, I’m like the Energizer Bunny who just keeps going and going and going.

The Cantine del Vino Schiavi was hopping on this Saturday afternoon. The place was packed, with the overflow crowd sitting on the little bridge that sits over a narrow canal. I was buying some Prosecco for the rooftop gathering, but since I was here, I decided it would be a big mistake to not partake in the atmospheric moment. OK, all I really wanted was a good glass of wine, but it was atmospheric.

I went back and rousted the sleepy ones out of their respective beds, because it was nearly 6 pm, and I think you know what that means. The view from the rooftop of La Calcina was terrific, but we could feel a change in the weather. Since we had all had late lunches, dinner on this evening was a little cheese and salami on the top of the hotel.

The concert at the Chiesa San Vidal was great, with each violinist taking the lead for the respective seasons. Sadly, they did not play “Big Girls Don’t Cry.”
Afterward, we decided to walk down to San Marco, and on the way, there was an exhibit on Vivaldi, featuring some ancient instruments and a detailed account of his life. We were asked if we wanted to go to another venue the following night for a rendition of…The Four Seasons. Venice: All Vivaldi, All the time!

When we arrived at San Marco, we walked toward Harry’s Bar, ostensibly to have a really overpriced Bellini. I had envisioned Harry’s as being some truly Venetian-type of experience, but after gazing in, it just looked like another overpriced, busy bar to me. Yes, I know, some people say you have to do it, but the atmosphere did not appeal to us for some reason, and I can pay too much for drinks anywhere.

Since it was beautiful outside, we hightailed it back to La Calcina, where they were open a little later than usual for dinner on the outside patio. Tracy and I soaked in the beautiful evening with a little more vino and toasted our return to Venice. We thought, “This beats an overpriced Bellini any day.” It would also be the last time the patio would be open while we were there.

<b> TOMORROW - PALAZZO PERFECTO, SPECTACULAR SCUOLA, WHAT’S THAT IN MY ESPRESSO AND A SINGING GONDOLIER THAT DOESN’T INCLUDE A GONDOLA OR A GUY SINGING </b>
((H))

So glad you had a good third trip to Venice. I love Venice; one of the pleasures of my last Italy trip in the spring was that the non-Venice-lover with us (and boy, did I try beforehand to talk her out of joining us there so she wouldn't complain and ruin it for the rest of us)really liked it this time. Why? some of the very things you mention; wandering at night, avoiding places that were too crowded, spending lots of time eating and drinking. I could go for a glass of wine from the Veneto and some cichetti right about now.

Things seem to be going too smoothly, however (oh wait, I actually think I channeled Barb's trip for a minute, yikes!)

More food details, please. Hearing about your yummy meals is inspiring me to cook. (Not that I am close to the fabulous Tracy, I am sure.)

Great journal, tom!

Tom,

This is such a fun read. Looking forward to the next installment.

Tom

Thanks Tom. I enjoyed your report, too. I'm glad you had a good time. I am still in vacation mode after being back a month (of course, that might be because it has taken me a month to get this far in the report).
((H))

<b> DAY 18 - PALAZZO PERFECTO, SPECTACULAR SCUOLA, THE CANAL JESTERS, WHAT’S THAT IN MY ESPRESSO AND A SINGING GONDOLIER THAT DOESN’T INCLUDE A GONDOLA OR A GUY SINGING </b>

We woke up to a cloudy Thursday morning, and after breakfast at La Calcina (I usually eat breakfast five times a year at home. This was my 16th straight breakfast on the trip), Tracy and I hopped on the Vaporetto for the Ca Rezzonico, an old palazzo.

We had purchased a Vaporetto pass when we first arrived in Venice, which turned out to be a good deal, so we hopped on for the short trip.

The cost was 6 ½ euro plus 4 euro for the headphones, and it was a very insightful look at what Venice was like a couple of hundred years ago. If you go, the audio guide is a must, because it gives you a more detailed account, although Tracy thought it could have more on the building itself, instead of just the art pieces inside. All in all, we both thought it was a great stop.

We toured around for 90 minutes, and then rushed to San Polo to meet up with Kim and Mary to take a look around the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. Tracy had told me that this museum was full of the works of the famed Tintoretto, who up until the day before, I had thought was the mouse that had appeared on the Ed Sullivan Show.

It was six euros to enter and the audio guides are free. The highlight to me, besides some incredible Tintoretto paintings, was the wood inlaid library.

The upstairs also had a lot of mirrors lying around, and I was thinking that they were for tourists to look at themselves and make sure pigeons hadn’t pooped on them. Tracy informed me, that if you looked down at the mirror lying on a chair, it gave one a perfect look at the painted ceilings. Sure enough the ceiling was spectacular from this angle, although I gave a quick glance to see that there was no poop on my shirt, since I had worn it yesterday at San Marco.

Our sightseeing continued at the Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, the largest church in Venice after the Basilica di San Marco. It cost the others 2.50 euro, but I had bought a cumulative ticket for 8 euro on the first day and got in on that.

That much sightseeing could only mean one thing…lunch. Since it had started raining. We popped into a happening restaurant on a little alley, the Ristorante alla Madonna. The place was huge with four or five large rooms. We got seated in one of the smaller ones. The bread was crusty, and come to think of it, so were the waiters.

Lunch was good, with dishes ranging from spaghetti and clams, ravioli pomodero, scampi and a fish soup alla Venezia with Crostini. I was forced to try the cream cake, which was delicious.

On the way to the Rialto Bridge, there are a number of little stands selling; well I’ll be blunt, crap. But that doesn’t mean we didn’t buy something. Kim and I both attended San Diego State (or as Kim jokingly calls it, the Harvard of the West). The school colors are red and black, and at one of the stands were the ugliest, red and black jester hats (bells and all) you could imagine.

To Mary and Tracy’s ultimate dismay, Kim and I each bought one (five euros each) and took photographs of each other near the bridge in all our sartorial splendor. Now those were two ugly Americans.

The rain was starting to come down, so Kim and Mary took the Vaporetto to points unknown, while Tracy and I walked the streets back toward our destination. It also started Tracy’s 24-hours of shopping. First it was some Murano glass necklaces.

When we were walking I spotted the Pasticceria Bar Rizzardini, and there in the window was a Mascarpone Cookie that said “Tom.” Shopping makes me hungry. Once inside, I decided to have an espresso. “Grappa?” the gentleman behind the counter asked.

“In my espresso?” I replied.

Yep. It was a new drink that I do not know the name of, but the guy assured me that people actually drink it. As stated previously somewhere in this report (where, I know not), Grappa is an acquired taste that I don’t know I will ever fully acquire. However, it was quite tasty, and now I didn’t care if Tracy spent more money shopping. Oh yeah, the cookie was good to, what I remember of it.

That evening, we all started to walk from the hotel to find somewhere to eat. It started raining pretty heavily, and the dinner at La Calcina was looking better to us. Tracy and I headed back to the hotel, but Kim and Mary were not that hungry so they trudged on through the night.

We dined inside, and it turned out to be a good choice, although not great…EXCEPT, for yet another drink invention.

But I digress. We sat next to two schoolteachers from Germany, who we met when they were given Tracy’s soup by mistake. They were a joy to talk with, and they kept apologizing for their poor English (which, by the way, was better than many San Diego State students I have met).

The timing was shortly after the German elections, and we asked whether they liked Angela Merkel who looked like she would become the next Chancellor. They said, “No, but Schroder is just as bad. We actually can’t stand either of them.” Tracy and I told them we felt their election pain.

As we were chatting with our German comrades, I saw some Brits at the other table downing an after dinner drink with much gusto and in good spirits. Knowing that their politicians were as bad as the Americans and the Germans, I surmised it must be the cocktail that was putting them in such good spirits.

I said, “My good man (yeah, I’ve seen too many English movies), what might you be imbibing?”

“It’s a Sgroppino,” he replied, without a stiff upper lip.

A Sgroppino?! My god, it sounded like a disease I could have contracted at San Diego State, but I asked the waiter what it was? He told us it was a concoction (not his own words) of lemon sorbet, Prosecco, a touch of Vodka and a little cream. He added that this drink was a great after-dinner drink to settle your stomach. That clinched it. We decided to try one of the frothy delights.

They were delicious. The German ladies asked if we liked it, and since Tracy had not broken the bank shopping, I ordered two for the Germans (ok, and two more for Tracy and myself).

We liked everything about the Sgroppino except one thing, the name. What could we call this Venetian drink when we serve these at home? After a few seconds of contemplation, Tracy took the first two letters of the drink and said, “Let’s call them ‘Singing Gondoliers’!”

I thought, “Damn, I married well.”

<b> TOMORROW – MEN OF ACCADEMIA, THE TINY SHIP WAS TOSSED, SINGING IN THE RAIN AND WHOSE PEN LEAKED ON MY SPAGHETTI? </b>
((H))

Fabulous Tom....one of the best installments yet. I do not want this trip to end! :)

Espresso with grappa is a &quot;caffe corretto&quot; -- &quot;corrected coffee.&quot; Warning: it can be addictive! We stayed at a B&amp;B in the Veneto where it was part of the set meal every night (the whole dinner only cost 13 euro!), and we got hooked.

But in the US it can be a very expensive habit. We had bought a bottle of grappa to bring home with us (cost in Italy about 10 euro for a normal liquor-sized bottle, whatever that is in litres), and it's getting kind of low. So yesterday my DH asked in the liquor store whether they sold grappa. Well, they said, we're out of the cheap one that costs $40, and the only one left costs $70!

Hi Tom,

Really enjoying the continuation of your report. The string quartet didn't play &quot;Big Girls Don't Cry&quot; -- great visual!

I can't help the gut feeling that I actually did cross paths with you guys in Assisi. When exactly were you there?

Dayle, we were in Assisi on Monday, September 19 BG (Before Grappa)
((H))

Hello Tom, so very glad to read more of your trip report, and am so happy you discovered the joys of Venice during your second visit there.

Grappa, an acquired taste, I love it!!
But never buy it here in CA due to the cost as nonnafelice said. But another reason to always return to Italy.

Now, more about your trip please!! Thank you.

Tom,

OK, I was in Rome then. I asked because I stopped for a morning hot chocolate near the Basilica and spoke briefly with 2 couples from San Diego.

Looking forward to the rest!

In the states, never buy Calvados or grappa unless you can afford the higher price, because the less expensive tastes like fire water. Once we were in Europe, what a difference in taste, smooth but strong and wonderful.

MT Tom,
How great are the scropinos or &quot;singing gondoliers&quot;? I discovered them at a restaurant on the piazza in Capri last September and my friend and I were hooked - we are just waiting for an occasion to whip up a batch at home. I am really enjoying your trip report!
JenV

Hi mimi, I always have grappa in Italy but don't buy it here. There use to be a family owned restaurant in NorthBeach (SF)that was sort of like a home away from home for us and the owner would come over with 3 small glasses of grappa and sit with us after dinner while we visited with him. He kept the bottle in the kitchen, not at the bar. We felt very priveledged that he shared his grappa with us. Beautiful memories!

Tom, you're bringing back great memories of drinking in Italy! When we stayed near San Gimignano, we had dinner one night at La Cisterna, on the town square. (Where we found ourselves seated next to an architect from CT who my husband had worked with!)

It was a fun festive evening, made more so by the very delicious &quot;house cocktails&quot; they served before dinner. We liked them so much that we asked for the recipe -- and since they had the information pre-printed on postcards, evidently we were not the first to ask.

So of course when we had a dinner party back home, we had to make the Cisterna specials for everyone. As I recall it involved all the major liquor groups, and was very tasty. But for some reason, it seemed a lot more, um, intoxicating than when we had it in Italy... I don't remember a whole lot about the dinner (I was doing the cooking) but everyone sure seemed to enjoy themselves. We named the cocktail &quot;Cisterna Rocket Fuel&quot;. ;-)

Tom,

As a fellow Tom, and a former San Diego resident,(Graduated from Montgomery High School in 1980), I feel you are leaving us hanging!!

Plllleeeeaaase, another installment of this great report!!

Tom

PS Whats the latest on the 'Trevor' front?

&quot;Plllleeeeaaase, another installment of this great report!! Tom
PS Whats the latest on the 'Trevor' front?&quot;

The last day in Venice will be up later this morning. First day of Rome (hopefully) this afternoon. The Trevor front (for you few Padre fans outside SD) does not look good so far. But Towers said he is going to try hard to make it work, since Hoffmann is &quot;the face of the Padres.&quot; I hope so.
((H))