123klkklkklk

Please offer perspective on itinerary for only about 7-8 nights total in Sicily. We have considered flying into Catania, staying for the first two nights in Syracusa (Ortigia) in part because I will not be able to drive a considerable distance on the afternoon of arrival due to exhaustion, then staying in the region Modica, Ragusa for about 2-3 nights, and finally to Palermo for the final two nights (perhaps would like a recommendation of a village/town of interest to stay on the way to Palermo). We fear that Taormina would be too touristy for our taste (and less “authentic Sicily”), and Palermo, despite its downsides (some chaos, a bit dirty, a bit crazy) may be very interesting. We only have about 7-8 nights and love countryside, generally stay away from overly touristy destinations and large crowds, and we will only have 7-8 nights, so thought it may be good to fly into Catania airport and fly out of Palermo (dropping our car off at the airport and transporting to hotel in Palermo to avoid driving in the city, and getting a quick taxi on the morning of departure. I understand that some people love Palermo, some dislike it (much like NYC), but it does seem to be an authentic part of Sicily not to miss. Traveling with me are my mother and 9 year old son. I will be doing all the driving. We like mostly high end masserias in the country side and 4-5 star boutique hotels or B&Bs in the city. So far considering hotel "Algila Ortigia Charme Hotel" or La Vie della Guidecca for Siracusa, either Tenuta Cammarana or Quartarella for Modica/Ragusa Scicli area, and for Palermo, BB22 Palermo, B&B Maxim, or Buttera 28 apartments (not a likely choice), but looking for any advice on Palermo hotel.
Questions:
any suggestions on a village/town to visit and stay one night en route to Palermo from Modica/Ragusa area?
am I on target with skipping Taormina?
Palermo-- do I need to see it? Think so, but want to validate. We love crazy markets-- think that would be an incredible experience!
Will I miss the crazy Palermo driving if we drop off car at hotel and taxi to hotel for our Palermo stay? I still have nightmares about driving in circles in Florence... Just want to make sure that the highway from countryside to Palermo airport is a little bit immune from the alleged crazy driving? Plus we have to be at airport by 5am morning of departure- so don't want to take risks

adrienne

<< Palermo-- do I need to see it? >>

Absolutely!! Do not miss Palermo. I did not find it dirty or chaotic. I would not drive in Palermo (I don't normally drive in cities and don't see the need to do so). The market wasn't crazy - it was fairly normal.

Taormina was OK. It's a pretty town but not worth more than a couple of hours.

Between Ragusa and Palermo are the amazing temples in Agrigento.

If you choose not to go to Agrigento and give an extra night to Palermo you can drop off the car in Catania and take a direct bus to Palermo. I believe there is a bus from the Catania airport to Palermo.

123klkklkklk

I was actually hoping to drop the car off at the Palermo airport-- assuming a car rental would allow pick up/drop off different locations.

Michael

You might want to take a look at my trip report, skipping the medical emergency section; click on my name to find it.

thursdaysd

Are you sure you want a car at all? You can take a train or bus from Catania to Siracusa, visit Ragusa etc. by bus from Ortigia, and train or bus on to Palermo.

Palermo is certainly worth seeing - don't miss Monreale. On that side of the island I like Erice and Trapani. Click on my name for my TR.

MartaD1

It is possible to return your rental car to the Palermo airport and either take a taxi to your hotel or have the hotel arrange to pick you up at the airport. We did this and it worked out well. Just keep in mind there are two Palermo, and Monreale are not to be missed. I don't know what time of year you will be traveling. Our trip to Sicily was late April/early May. Taormina was not crowded and I thought it a beautiful place. But we were fortunate that no cruise ships were in the area during our time there or I imagine it would have been different. Still, with only a few days to spend, you may wish to miss Taormina. I would recommend Trappani for an extra night between the Ragusa/Modica area and Palermo.

Michael

Taxi to and from the Palermo airport is fairly expensive. There is a bus that goes from the airport to Palermo.

123klkklkklk

Thank you so much for all the input-- greatly appreciated! I'd welcome more opinions,and will explore the suggestions.

kja

You might consider shifting a night from the Ragusa area to Palermo -- along with Monreale (which is NOT to be missed!), Palermo deserves at least 2 or 3 full days IMO. And yes, some people don't like it. I loved it, finding it dynamic and energetic and vibrant.

"any suggestions on a village/town to visit and stay one night en route to Palermo from Modica/Ragusa area?" -- I loved Noto and found both Caltagirone and Enna interesting. BUT as thursdaysd has noted, you might want to use public transportation instead.

I take it that you have decided that you are either not sufficiently interested in or not sufficiently near to Agrigento to visit it? You would need the better part of a day there. Personally, I would cut Ragusa etc. to a single night or add a night to Siracusa and see it from there, just to make sure I had a night in Agrigento. Just my opinion.

"am I on target with skipping Taormina?" -- I was glad to see it, especially after the day trippers had left. I preferred Syracusa/Ortygia.

If you do rent a car, definitely drop it off rather than drive into Palermo. The airport is an option, and as Michael notes, you can easily take a bus into the city. Or, depending on your rental company, you would probably be able to leave it off at a location just within the city along one of the local train lines.

FWIW, I found The Rough Guide the most useful of the guidebooks I used for Sicily.

Hope that helps!

Leely2

What I did (you could reverse it and cut Agrigento if you wanted):

Fly into Palermo, two nights Palermo
Pick up car at airport, drive down to Agrigento, stopping at Segesta along the way
O/n Agrigento
2 nights Modica
3 nights Ortygia (was it two nights? Can't remember)

I would have liked another night everywhere except Agrigento.

We stayed at the Falkensteiner Palazzo Sitano in Palermo, Casa Talia in Modica, Palazzo del Sale in Ortygia.

123klkklkklk

For those of you who say that Monreale is "not to be missed" please explain, is it the architecture, the vibe/charm, the energy, the churches-- I'd like more context.

The only concern I have about Agrigento is that it seems that the ONLY reason to go is the ruins-- as collectively I've heard that the town is unimpressive. So, is this true, is this just for the ruins?

Any more thoughts?

thursdaysd

Monreale: stunning, absolutely stunning, mosaics, covering the entire interior of a large cathedral - Byzantine with Arab influences. Fascinating collection of columns surrounding the cloisters.

Agrigento: "just" the ruins, but they are excellent ruins.

Michael

Monreale: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...th/4975527162/

kja

Re: Monreale -- thursdaysd captured in words what Michael has captured so wonderfully with his camera.

By far the most important reason to visit Agrigento is to see its excellent ruins (including its archeological museum). I also thought it's Old Town somewhat interesting, and since I was there and had the time, I enjoyed meandering its medieval lanes. I wouldn't have made a special trip just for the Old Town, though.

dina4

We spent a fabulous week in Sicily last summer, but we only focused on western Sicily and unfortunately didn't make it to Palermo. We stayed in Ortigia and loved it. We also stayed near Ragusa at the COS winery.

We actually loved Taormina. It is touristy, but the joy of staying there overnight is you can enjoy the beautiful town in the morning and late afternoon and evenings without the crowds. During the day, you can go wine tasting and to the beach. There are also so many incredible restaurants in Taormina. I can't imagine going to western Sicily and not staying there for a bit. (In fact, we're incorporating a return visit to Taormina and Panarea into our summer 2014 trip.)

Our other stop was Panarea, an Aeolian island, which was fantastic.

You can click on my name to scroll down and find my trip report, which includes restaurants, hotels, etc. We drove everywhere and found it really easy (for the most part).

Happy to answer any questions.

thursdaysd

Nothing wrong with taking an overnight in Taormina if you have the time, but the OP doesn't. A short visit to see the Greek theater, and to go up to Castlemola for the views, should be enough on such a short trip. There are plenty of good restaurants elsewhere on the island.