Visiting Italy-No Car Required!
#64
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
#66
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
We had originally planned to spend our last two weeks in Venice this trip. With the crowds of tourists reported coming to see this incredible city we decided to to go to Treviso and Valdobbiadene in Prosecco country instead. We had already purchased an Italo train ticket from Bologna to Venice so we took the train and stopped off in Venice for lunch.

Venice, Cannaregio Canal

The views in Venice never get old!

Lunch at Ristorante Casa Bonita Sestiere Cannaregio 492, great service, delicious food

1st courses, gnocchetti with monkfish, taggia sche olives and cherry tomatoes. Paccheri di Gragnano con capesante e crema di pistachio di Brontë, contorni grilled eggplant and zucchini

2nd course for dh was squid cooked in its ink with soft polenta. He liked it very much. Bill was around 80 euros with food and 2 glasses of house wine.

While we were at Casa Bonita a water taxi pulled up and a passenger went into the restaurant to get his takeout order.

Don’t back up your chairs too far when you go to leave.

Venice, Cannaregio Canal

The views in Venice never get old!

Lunch at Ristorante Casa Bonita Sestiere Cannaregio 492, great service, delicious food

1st courses, gnocchetti with monkfish, taggia sche olives and cherry tomatoes. Paccheri di Gragnano con capesante e crema di pistachio di Brontë, contorni grilled eggplant and zucchini

2nd course for dh was squid cooked in its ink with soft polenta. He liked it very much. Bill was around 80 euros with food and 2 glasses of house wine.

While we were at Casa Bonita a water taxi pulled up and a passenger went into the restaurant to get his takeout order.

Don’t back up your chairs too far when you go to leave.
#67
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Here’s one way to avoid heavy foot traffic when arriving in Venice St Lucia train station. We went to the left, away from the front exit of the train station along side of track one and followed the students to the Ca Foscari University to the Cannaregio canal and returned the same way back to the train station.
Last edited by tcinct; Oct 22nd, 2023 at 05:59 AM. Reason: Editor quit
#69
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
After lunch we took a regional train that was a half hour away to Treviso. Treviso has frequent service throughout the day making it an easy commute to Venice. We did go back to Venice one more time but didn’t stay long, because this time the crowds were getting larger as the morning progressed. With all the coughing and sneezing while we walked further into the city we decided to hightail it out of there! Why can’t people cough or sneeze into their elbows?! I’ve seen preschoolers do a better job! All my doubts about not staying longer in Venice disappeared. I was so happy to have Treviso to return to!
Treviso has a medieval town center that is surrounded with walls and some canals so clear and you can see to the bottom. There’s no gondoliers and very little boat traffic but loads of water fowl floating around. You can walk or bike the 3 miles on the tops of the 500 year old city walls that surround the city. Walking around this city was a pleasure!

One of the 3 gates into Treviso, Porta Santi Quaranta. There was a street market on Saturday inside the gates. There were bins of cashmere for sale that were factory rejects from nearby clothing manufacturers.

Canals go around and across the city, this bridge is over the Sile River.

Sculptures along a narrow canal off Via Pallestro.

Ponte dell Universita

A paved and gravel path along the top of medieval walls of Treviso.

A staircase leads to the upper walls.

Among the ducks and coots were the swans.

The water current was strong enough for the swans to glide effortlessly along the canal.
Treviso has a medieval town center that is surrounded with walls and some canals so clear and you can see to the bottom. There’s no gondoliers and very little boat traffic but loads of water fowl floating around. You can walk or bike the 3 miles on the tops of the 500 year old city walls that surround the city. Walking around this city was a pleasure!

One of the 3 gates into Treviso, Porta Santi Quaranta. There was a street market on Saturday inside the gates. There were bins of cashmere for sale that were factory rejects from nearby clothing manufacturers.

Canals go around and across the city, this bridge is over the Sile River.

Sculptures along a narrow canal off Via Pallestro.

Ponte dell Universita

A paved and gravel path along the top of medieval walls of Treviso.

A staircase leads to the upper walls.

Among the ducks and coots were the swans.

The water current was strong enough for the swans to glide effortlessly along the canal.
#71
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
We have been known for planning a trip to Italy that includes a stop in Naples just for their exceptional pizza. So when we tried pizza in Treviso we were pleasantly surprised to like it as much as we did. One pizza restaurant we tried, Zeus, advertises 100+ pizzas with dough based on whole meal flour, 00 flour, kamut and soy flour. Tiramisu was said to have originated from the Veneto region and specifically Treviso. Zeus won recognition for their family tiramisu recipe in 2021 so we enjoyed trying their prize winning dessert.

Pizza from ZeusdaLaura Vicolo Avogari, 14

Pizza from ZeusdaLaura Vicolo Avogari, 14
#72
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Treviso
We have been known for planning a trip to Italy that includes a stop in Naples just for their exceptional pizza. So when we tried pizza in Treviso we were pleasantly surprised to like it as much as we did. One pizza restaurant we tried, Zeus, advertises 100+ pizzas with dough based on whole meal flour, 00 flour, kamut and soy flour. Tiramisu was said to have originated from the Veneto region and specifically Treviso. Zeus won recognition for their family tiramisu recipe in 2021 so we enjoyed trying their prize winning dessert.

Pizza from ZeusdaLaura Vicolo Avogari, 14

Pizza from ZeusdaLaura Vicolo Avogari, 14
#73
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Saving the best part of our trip for last! About an hour away from Treviso by bus is Valdobbiadene, the birthplace of Prosecco and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There’s no trains to get there but surprisingly the MOM 110 bus was a great way to travel from Treviso to this part of Italy.
https://mobilitadimarca.it/en/
Piazza Marconi has an impressive clock tower, the Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta and Palazzo del Municipio that frame the square. Our apartment for the week was right around the corner, easily walkable to Prosecco wine tastings, restaurants, and a small well stocked grocery store. We walked around the town in awe of the majesty of the mountains and the breathtaking Prosecco vineyards that go up as high as the eye can see.
https://mobilitadimarca.it/en/
Piazza Marconi has an impressive clock tower, the Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta and Palazzo del Municipio that frame the square. Our apartment for the week was right around the corner, easily walkable to Prosecco wine tastings, restaurants, and a small well stocked grocery store. We walked around the town in awe of the majesty of the mountains and the breathtaking Prosecco vineyards that go up as high as the eye can see.
#76
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
As a side note I will say the drivers of the cars towns we visited in Italy this trip were great about stopping at crosswalks. But not here! Most of the drivers in Valdobbiadene speed around the streets like they are trying to qualify for a F1 race in Monza!
#77
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
We found people here friendly and helpful. The tourist information office, IAT, is located in the main square under the municipal loggia at Piazza Marconi 1, where we picked up a map of the town on one side and a map of the 20 mile route of the Prosecco Road.
While out exploring the town we came across a sports complex and were welcomed by the kind staff who allowed us to come inside to see the community’s indoor lap pool and separate children’s pool. Not far from the center is Villa dei Cedri, a nineteenth century home and factory owned by the town where visitors are allowed to visit the grounds.

Piazza Marconi, with a sun dial on the clock tower.

The main square

The clock tower was a good landmark to find our way back to the center.

Villa Cedri

We saw a marching band perform on the main square.
While out exploring the town we came across a sports complex and were welcomed by the kind staff who allowed us to come inside to see the community’s indoor lap pool and separate children’s pool. Not far from the center is Villa dei Cedri, a nineteenth century home and factory owned by the town where visitors are allowed to visit the grounds.

Piazza Marconi, with a sun dial on the clock tower.

The main square

The clock tower was a good landmark to find our way back to the center.

Villa Cedri

We saw a marching band perform on the main square.
#78
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Our favorite day was a 6 hour tour of 3 small wineries to try DOGG Prosecco superiore for tastings and to learn about the production of Prosecco and a stop for lunch at Salis Ristorante. Our tour organizer and driver, Oriana,
https://www.orianancc.it

San Marino temple, also known as the wedding cake church.
had a flat tire on her way to pick us up so she arranged for Silvia Spadetto, owner of Rivagranda, one of the winery owners on the tour to come pick us up. On the ride we learned how the blight in the nineteenth century wiped out the Prosecco vines. American wine roots were disease resistant so grafting the Prosecco vines onto American wine roots saved the vines.
Along the way to the vineyard we passed Sam Marino temple where Silvia told us couples who had trouble conceiving could come to the church. They were to pick out two names of saints, one for a boy and one for a girl. If they were able to have a child the parents had to use that name of the saint they had selected for their child’s name or second name from the church.
https://www.orianancc.it

San Marino temple, also known as the wedding cake church.
had a flat tire on her way to pick us up so she arranged for Silvia Spadetto, owner of Rivagranda, one of the winery owners on the tour to come pick us up. On the ride we learned how the blight in the nineteenth century wiped out the Prosecco vines. American wine roots were disease resistant so grafting the Prosecco vines onto American wine roots saved the vines.
Along the way to the vineyard we passed Sam Marino temple where Silvia told us couples who had trouble conceiving could come to the church. They were to pick out two names of saints, one for a boy and one for a girl. If they were able to have a child the parents had to use that name of the saint they had selected for their child’s name or second name from the church.
#79
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Rivagranda has a spectacular location where Sylvia’s family has been cultivating the vines for generations. When we saw the vineyards we better understood the term heroic harvest that Giuseppe, her husband does! The tastings were served with bread, cheeses and traditional cold cuts from their farm. One of the goat cheeses served was flavored by feeding the glera grape skins to the goats! Marchiori and Merotto tastings rounded out the tour.

Tasting location in the vineyards of Rivagranda.

One view from Rivagranda where the grapes are all handpicked when ready to be harvested.

Sarah from Marchiori works with her 2 brothers at their winery. She shared a wealth of information about the work they do there.

One of the tasting rooms at Merotto Space.

Tasting location in the vineyards of Rivagranda.

One view from Rivagranda where the grapes are all handpicked when ready to be harvested.

Sarah from Marchiori works with her 2 brothers at their winery. She shared a wealth of information about the work they do there.

One of the tasting rooms at Merotto Space.
#80
Original Poster

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Lunch was at Salis Ristorante Enoteca with panoramic views of the vineyards and small towns.
https://www.salisristorante.it
that is on the grounds of Agriturismo due Carpini complete with a spa and wellness center, small outdoor pool, rooms and an apartment.
One of the courses was sold out so we ordered risotto with Guinea fowl, figs, hazelnut butter and coffee,
spaghetti alla chitarra, black garlic, red shrimp, and sambas salsa,
followed by apple cake with apple namesake, pine nuts mou and cinnamon crumble.
Food and service was excellent, 54 euros, we opted for sparkling water as we had plenty of wine by that time!

Risotto at Salis Ristorante.

Spaghetto at Salis Ristorante.

Apple dessert at Salis Ristorante.
https://www.salisristorante.it
that is on the grounds of Agriturismo due Carpini complete with a spa and wellness center, small outdoor pool, rooms and an apartment.
One of the courses was sold out so we ordered risotto with Guinea fowl, figs, hazelnut butter and coffee,
spaghetti alla chitarra, black garlic, red shrimp, and sambas salsa,
followed by apple cake with apple namesake, pine nuts mou and cinnamon crumble.
Food and service was excellent, 54 euros, we opted for sparkling water as we had plenty of wine by that time!

Risotto at Salis Ristorante.

Spaghetto at Salis Ristorante.

Apple dessert at Salis Ristorante.
Last edited by tcinct; Oct 31st, 2023 at 03:21 AM. Reason: wanted to see if the edit button still worked.




