amyb

butnot, just another soothing voice here. I spent about the same amount of time in Venice in early May 2006. I did not experience any of the crowding you hear about, so unless things change drastically, I wouldn't worry. I loved Piazza San Marco, especially appreciating it at different times of day, so I would recommend seeing it at dawn, at mid-morning, afternoon, evening and after dark. I have said it before on this forum, but the piazza and the basilica really change character as the day goes on. And who cares how overpriced it is, where else can you sit outside and enjoy a drink while listening to competing orchestras in the shadow of a glorious basilica? If you don't want to sit and pay, buy a gelato somewhere and lean against a wall and just absorb it all!

Go and see Venice and see how you like it. See what you want to see when you want to see it. Everyone likes and experiences cities differently, as you've seen here from others' posts. I enjoyed my stay there, and am definitely glad I went, but I'd go back to many other places before I return to Venice. It's all just a difference of opinion.

adventureseeker

Wanderer1...I echo all you wrote. I, too, left a piece of my heart in Venice. I spend way too much time on this site and when I read an entry like yours it makes me feel that the time spent is worthwile because you relate to another's experience. Grazie.

Kelliebellie....I wholeheartedly agree with what you said about Locanda Orseolo. In the planning stages, bonding with the hosts wasn't something I cared about, but in the end it was the icing on the cake and made our experience in Venice all the better.

We found ourselves lingering and enjoying chatting with LO's Gigi, Francesco, Bruno, Igor and Barbara daily. We can't wait to go back.

gruezi

do listen to Travelnut and go inside the Basilica San Marco... breathtaking and awe-inspiring...I would go back just to see the mosaics again. We tagged along on a just forming tour and the guide made us really appreciate the square and pointed out things we never would have noticed that were fascinating.

Go up the tower at San Maggiore - gorgeous views and no crowd at all...and a cute, old brother takes you up...

Peggy Guggenheim alone is a reason to go to Venice - loved, loved, loved this museum...

walk...

Go on the shoulder season to avoid the crowds and hot weather. We went in May and had the most unbelievable weather.

Have fun.

Thomarob

I didn't especially like Venice on my first day there because of the crowds either, but on my second day I happened to get up early and in the piece and quiet of the early morning just fell in love with it. The trick I think is to get away from the crowds. Take the ferry to San Giorgio - the church is breathtaking, the line for the tower is a fraction of what it is for the Campanile and you are looking at Venice (rather than being in Venice looking at the other islands). Hit other churches like LaSalute and San Zaccaria - both virtually empty when I was at both. A great time saving hint for St. Marks (which for my money beat St. Peters in the jaw-dropping beauty contest) I got from Rick Steve's is that around the corner is a church where you drop off your backpack/messenger bag/etc. and get a pass that lets you skip the line for whatever the slight fee was (maybe a euro) - that hint alone made buying the Rick Steves book worthwhile. By all means go the Guggenheim - I thought it was the highlight of my Venice visit much to my amazement (I'm not a fan of modern art usually, but I found it surprisingly powerful). Don't eat like you would elsewhere in Italy - eat ciccheti, small odd fish, spaghetti in cuttlefish ink - stuff that is uniquely local. October was a great time to visit BTW, still sunny out but cool.

janschwartz

I cannot resist adding my voice to the Venice lovers. My husband and I spent two very lovely days there last month.
We stayed in a lovely locanda near the Grand Canal in Canareggio, and we traveled the Canal on the vaporetto.
Definitely go to Piazza San Marco early... we were there by 8:30 and there was plenty of room to move around and to visit what we wished to see. We went up to the top of the Campanile for breathtaking views!
Definitely WALK WALK WALK. Just follow signs for RIALTO or FERROVIALE or ACCADEMIA and get lost (if you have a good map you can find yourself).
The area near the Ghetto is very interesting with excellent restaurants and shops.
The Peggy Guggenheim Collection is a lovely place to visit ... beautiful palazzo and garden. Walk over to the Zatere for fantastic views of the lagoons.
Deinitely take the vaporetto to Murano and wander around. (friends of ours enjoyed Burano, too).
Try eating "baccala with polenta". Yum!

sessa

I cannot speak to the crowds because we were there in January, but it was magical even then. We arrived to snow falling and the Olympic torch being run up the Rialto Bridge. What a great welcome to the city. We spent 3 days just wandering around and getting "lost", enjoying a cioccolata calda or cocktail here and there. My husband's only complaint was that draft beer was $8! I would go back in a second. Hope you enjoy it as much as we did!

roamer

We've been to Venice 4 times--2 weeks each the last 3 times and going again for 2 weeks in January. We are always sorry to leave, as Venice captures our hearts and provides a new experience around every passageway. I suggest that you do a search on "Franco" and read his--and others--posts on Venice. He has provided invaluable information for us on food, sites, etc. Enjoy!

knickerbocker

I'm one who has mixed feelings on Venice. I've been there twice and have found it over-crowded around Piazza San Marco getting proportionately less so the farther away you get. Venice is a bit of a victim of its own popularity I think and when my wife and I were there this past June, the 'hot' tourist spots were chockablock with cruiseship tourists 3 days out of 3.

That said, we found that the tour of the Clock Tower in Piazza San Marco was one of the more interesting tours we took as well as the free tour of the Basilica di San Marco which more than made up for the grubby other tourists.

Venice certainly should be seen but expect the best-known tourist sites to be crowded.

jjkbrook

Do wander, very important, out of the center. Cannareggio, Dorsoduro, Castello all very nice to lose yourself in - but its good to have a good map to help you find yourself again when necessary. The Rough Guide map is excellent for this (you need one that shows all the fine detail)

butnotrmpt

Thanks again to all who wrote. It sounds like my plan for Venice could work very well. I wanted it to be an initial unwinding after the stress of traveling and time change. Strolling the quieter areas, taking the Vaporetto at sunset (knowing us, sleeping is going to take precedence over sunrise on the water), checking out some of the sights without trying to crowd them all in. It sounds appealing to me. So - here is to Venice! I hope I love it.

cmstraf

I agree with the idea of St. Mark's early or late--try a wonderful breakfast of croissant and hot chocolate (yes,
$$$$, but it's magical and you pay for location). If you are there on a Sunday, go to the 9am mass at San Marco and see mosiacs for free (except offering) without lines, respecting that many are there to worship.

Try lunch on the Giudecca at Altanella's, a walk through the Ghetto with its moving Haulocast memorial, a walk down the Zattere where Venetians take their evening stroll, #1vaporetto for a view of the city's street life, the Carpaccios on the top floor of the Museo Accademia, Ristorante Da Fiore for a big splurge lunch, the Scuola San Rocco and the Frari, the hotel Accademia and getting lost on back streets almost anywhere...this city may be overused but it is still unique, magical and outside the Piazza San Marco-Rialto Bridge crush, peaceful (no car noise!) and restful. Don't miss it.

SeaUrchin

When you sit at the Caffe Florian late at night and the orchestra is playing and there is hardly anyone else in the square and you look over at St. Marks, it is a sight you will find no where else in the world.

http://www.caffeflorian.com/


Don't just look at guidebooks, read some interesting articles on the history of Venice and get caught up in the romance and intrigue of the place. Then you will think of the prices at the Florian as just about right. Think of it as paying a cover charge for one of the best views on a square in the world.

I have walked the alleyways in Venice in the days before Carnivale and at times I was completely alone.

Vttraveler

It sounds as though you have been persuaded that you made a good choice in planning to visit Venice. Of the "big three" Italian cities I personally prefer Rome and Florence, but I agree with everyone who has said Venice is beautiful and magical especially if you wander the less touristed areas.

Of the island lagoons, I love Torcello, the "Mother of Venice" and the beautiful Byzantine mosaics at the Catttedrale di Torcello.
http://travel2.nytimes.com/2006/02/1.../19dayout.html

Another personal favorite is Palladio's San Giorgio Maggiore, including the view from the tower to the crowds at Piazza San Marco

If you decide you want to take a day trip from Venice during your stay (you probably won't with the amount of time you have) Padova is a great destination. The Giotto frescoes at the Cappella degli Scrovegni are magnificent--much more to my taste than Titian and Tintoretto

Phyllish

We just returned last week from 4 days in Venice. This was our second trip there and I am still in love with her. We had biting cold weather with rain thrown in on Thanksgiving for good measure but it truly didn't diminish Venice's charm. Venice is the reason I knew someday I'd return to Italy.

Since this was our second trip, we didn't focus on the historical aspects but rather just soaked up the atmosphere and wandered the city. Did we have enough time there? No way and I know I'll return yet again.

As for St. Mark's- some of our funniest moments were watching people get "attacked" by the pigeons. One big guy that looked liked he could have played for the NFL screamed like a girl as he threw the birdseed at his friend and sprinted to the end zone. And, no we never took a gondola ride but the call of the gondoliers crying "Gondola- Gon-doh-luh" will remain with us for a long time. Those little things are some of the richest memories for me.

It's a beautifully enchanting city- nothing to be worried about. And don't be concerned about the naysayers. After all, you know what they say about opinions and well, you know...

rattravlers

We visited Venice last July and stayed at Locanda Orseolo. You cannot go wrong. My husband has been in the hotel business more than 25 years and this place absolutely knocked his socks off! The staff is top notch and they will make you feel like a VIP at their property. Yes its close to the square, but it was nice to walk through & check things out.

I loved Venice. It is like nothing you will ever see anywhere else. Of course there are people that have their reasons to dislike it. Of course it has its "touristy" side. I think the bottom line is that you need to go experience it and decide for yourself.

Similarly, I worried endlessly about all the gypsies, pickpockets, graphitti & trash in Rome. As it turned out, I can hardly remember seeing any of the above. I was absolutely blown away by the beauty and history of the city. If you want to focus on the negatives, I am sure you can find some; however, if you go with an open mind and soak up the good stuff, you will enjoy it!

Staying at the Locanda Orseolo is a first step toward a great visit. I think the atmosphere at your hotel can really set your outlook on a city. They will help you find the best of their lovely city. Enjoy!

AllieNC

I am another Venice lover, and don't think I will ever get enough of this glorious town. The suggestions so far by other Venice lovers are great. Also, do read The City of Falling Angels by John Berendt before you go. It is about Venice and is fascinating. Also, Donna Leon has a series of mysteries about a police inspector in Venice that offer a different kind of insight into Venice & Venetians.

Timlin

I join the others to suggest that to visit Italy and miss Venice just seems a bad idea. I loved Venice and just strolled about and enjoyed every minute. We went to Burano and loved it. The trip over and back were fun if you watch the "rules of the road" as you travel along...all the traffic speed signs and all.....it was just fun! The little town was so beautiful and we wandered around away from the shops and watched all the Mom's picking their little ones up as school let out.

If I should go back to Italy I'll definitely include Venice once more. We went in early October and it was fabulous weather and not nearly as crowded as many say it can be.

AisleSeat

bookmarking

jrecm

Just spent 7 nights in Venice during the last week of October and loved it immensely. In fact, we thought we would be doing many day trips and didn't do a one, unless you count beautiful Burano and Torcello.

Everyday was filled just wandering the streets, visiting one important must see site a day, and eating with the locals. We'd eat where the gondoliers or where the people in the Castello district ate. Try to go on the secret iteneraries tour.

We wondered the streets watching Venetians teach the little ones how to ride a bike on via Garabaldi or watched them unload the boats to set up the local markets.The Venetian marathan went right by our apartment another treat.
Had a morning cappuccino at the local bar. They would always ask about my home that had been evacuated because of huge recent fires.

It was as good as it was 37 years ago, the last time I visited...except these young legs were pushing it a bit climbing 54 steep steep stairs to our apartment!!!

Buy a simple guide book and you'll be amazed at all
of off the beaten track sights there are too see.
Can't wait to return

Ralphie

Can't add much to what was said already, except to say that early April seems like a great time of year to go. I've been in mid-may, and that was jusssst starting to get a little bit too warm and crowded for my taste.

And for a bright side to negative commentary about Venice: if fewer people visit there, it'll be less crowded for those of us who love the place!