walkinaround

i resisted going to venice for a long time. it was just never very high on my list and i felt that the negatives that i heard would outweigh any positives. i am not one to dream about gondola rides or any of that nonsense.

i visited in may so it was not too crowded. i understand why day trippers could not like it. they must be plopped down around the grande canal and see st mark's square and little else.

i can also see disappointment if you are not prepared. there are so many bad restaurants that all look charming and give the impression that the food is lovingly cooked but most are just tourist traps.

we sought out inexpensive places that came highly recommended from friends and other sources. if you have your heart set on a fancy meal on the grande canal, you will pay a lot and be disappointed.

i found the food very good and i enjoyed a lot of venetian dishes and drink -

Polenta
Spaghetti al nero di seppia
Baccalà mantecato
Baby Octopus
Sarde in Saor
Prosecco

it is very easy to get out of the crowds (at least when i visited) and it is very relaxing to stroll around.

one of my best memories was sipping prosecco in the early evening from a tiny dock on the grande canal. we wanted to stay in venice so we compromised on the hotel. the room was tiny and barely had a window. no worries as this got us outside every evening on our "private" little dock just down from our hotel. from here we could watch the world go by.

michigandra

Re: Venice being the last stop of a vacation:

Having only done it one way (last stop), all I can say is that this is what worked best for us. At the beginning of our vacation, our "vacation adrenaline" was such that a big city suited us just fine and jet lag really wasn't a problem that a brief rest wouldn't fix. Plus, we spent more time in Rome than Venice (bigger city, more stuff to see and do), so the brief recovery from jet lag didn't take too much from our sightseeing time. Since we knew from the get-go we were going home from Venice, there was nothing particularly cruel about it being our last stop, at least other than the cruelty of leaving Bella Italia in general! We could have stayed anywhere in Italy for months (years, decades . . . ).

That said, gee, I have no comparison because we only saw Venice last. I really must go back--several times--in order to properly compare and decide which order of cities is best for me under various circumstances--Venice first, Venice last, Venice only, Venice first again, etc. I would be the happy guinea pig for an experiment assessing the pros and cons of Venice first vs. Venice last. Anyone wishing to send me, gee, just let me know!

kagoo

Love. Venice.

My husband and I spent four days in Venice in October 1997. As we walked through the train station, a delightful gentleman said (in Italian), Welcome to Venice! Can I help you? We told him where we were going and he pointed us to the Vaporetto (#1 line). As we walked out of the station into the glorious autumn sunshine (it was a perfect blue-sky October day, clear, crisp and bright), there before us was the Grand Canal. The vaporetto ride was like a dream; words cannot describe the perfection of the moment. At the end of the ride, we got lost trying to find our hotel (near, but not too near, St. Mark's Square); a lovely older woman saw our perplexed map-reading and led us almost all the way there. We had to cross the square to get there, and -- as luck would have it -- our approach was exactly the same as Katherine Hepburn's in Summertime. Woof. Did I cry? You betcha.

The next four days lived up to that golden introduction to this magical city. (If I had a dollar for every time I said, "This is like a fairy tale...&quot. As much as we both love art, we were actually not even interested in visiting any museums (next time, maybe!) -- we just wanted to experience the city. We wandered and got lost (highly recommended) and ate gelato and sat in squares and just took it all in. We started each day the same way: early every morning we walked to St. Mark's Square as the shopkeepers were opening up -- calling out to each other, whistling, singing (I'm not making this up) -- just to lap up the atmosphere as the city came alive. It was heavenly.

This is waaayyy too long, but I'm reliving the memory. Oh boy, Adventureseeker, do I love Venice. Hope you do, too.

adventureseeker

I know I will fall in love Venice. Thank you all for sharing with me all your thoughts. You have all enlightened me and given me so many more layers of Venice to discover. Grazie!

Kagoo: I can simply close my eyes and imagine that I am there. Thank you for such a beautiful sensory experience.

ellenem

I love Venice.

Take a look at my brief report about Hotel Al Ponte Mocenigo wehere we stayed on our recent visit. It falls well within your price range.

naturegirl

Recently read this: "You may have the Universe, if I may have Italy". This sums up my feelings for Italy as a whole, but Venice has my Heart.
We arrived in Venice last September via train from Milan...as we walked from the train station to the Grand Canal, my traveling partner and I just stopped and gasped at the sight...we had tears in our eyes and we almost said in unison: "Do you believe that we're here?
We stayed at a small hotel, Hotel Galleria, located at the base of the Accademia Bridge...hotel has green shuttered windows (plus red geranium flower box at window)- our room opened up onto the Grand Canal...was a magical moment when we pushed those shutters open. We slept with the shutters open at night and went to sleep with the water lapping at the sidewalk/buildings; someimes the gondoliers would pass by our window singing. Ahh, Venice is magical indeed and I'm saving my money to return!!

lonelyplanet

You're totally right about that. My aunt hates Venice. She says that she would never go back again even if it were for free. She thinks the city is claustrophobic.

However, I love Venice like you have no idea. The first time I went there, it was on a tour and I stayed there for 2 nights. I can't say I visited much that first time: mostly Rialto and the sites around Piazza San Marco.

I stayed for 4 nights last year and it was one of the happiest moments of my life. Venice is like an enigma. It's busy as a city but it has the charm of a forgotten town.

I stayed at a convent in Cannaregio and that was another highlight of my trip there. The convent is located near Madonna dell'Orto on a very quiet fondamenta (wharf) away from the tourist sites. The convent is housed in two venetian palaces with a lovely untidy garden. My room had a view of Murano and the different shades of orange and red at dawn were out of this world.

Piazza San Marco is a magical place. When you're there, you feel as if you've been given a moment of happiness which not everybody is entitled to have.

Le Zattere in Dorsoduro is another magical place. Walk there in the late afternoon, have an ice-cream while sitting on a bench and you'll feel like your being part of a painting.

I took some black and white pictures, and they are gorgeous. I'm not even a professional photographer.

The small squares called "campo" are beautiful places to hang out, too. Campo Santa Margherita (Dorsoduro), Campo San Polo (San Polo) and Campo del Ghetto Nuovo (Cannaregio) are among the most beautiful ones. Sitting there enjoying the atmosphere is just charming.

Venice is expensive if you want it to be expensive. I had delicious lunches for less than 6 euros in a historical pub in Cannaregio with an appetizer and pasta for less than 6 euros. It was restaurant quality. I don't remember the name of the pub, but it was on "Rio Terrà San Leonardo" right on the corner of "Ponte delle Guglie" in Cannaregio. On "Strada Nova" there's a drink stand taken care of by a senior guy who sells "almond milk" also in Cannaregio.

Getting lost in Venice is also a pleasure. There are beautiful buildings and landmarks on every corner.

There are street musicians everywhere playing beautiful music that goes along with the atmosphere of the city. Venice is gorgeous because it's an outdoor museum with an atmosphere that it will take you back hundreds of years in time.

The Rialto Market is also a wonderful place to buy fruit to eat it later in the day as a snack. There are also many cheesy souvenir stores, but just ignore them because they don't overshadow Venice's charm at all.

No other city, either in Italy or in any other country, seems special after being in Venice.

I know that my reply may seem a little bit exagerated or unreal, but that's the way I feel about Venice.

donnapg

Just me 2 cents on the first and last question.

I think Venice is a wonderful first stop. As another poster said Venice is not a run around - tick off to-do type of city. It is a very relaxing wander around type of city. The perfect way to step into a vacation.

Also, I vote for arriving in Venice from the airport by boat as opposed to bus or train. I will never forget the chills I had at the sight of Venice rising from the water on my first visit. I don;t think it would have been quite the same arriving into the train station and exiting onto the Grand Canal.

Just said to my son at dinner - 2 weeks from now we'll be in Venice! But who'se counting... um me, that's who.

Donna

annrad

Ah, Venice! Took a day trip there from Trieste New Years Eve 2005 after a 30 year absence and loved its shabby chic even more! We left the maps and guide books behind and went where the masses of tourists didn't. Discovered many beautiful churches, old buildings and a delicious bread shop reasonably priced away from the madding crowd. It was freezing cold but we didn't care! Hope you enjoy Venezia as much as we did, it has a feel all of its own!

mcnyc

Ah...Venezia. Love it. Miss it. Want to go back soon.

I must be one of the few who went to Venice the first time on a day trip from Florence, and fell head over heels in love with it. I love the bridges, the waterways, the pigeons in San Marco even. I loved Piazza San Marco, the open space, the basilica, the doge's palace. Love everything about it.

Staying overnight my second brief time there wasn't enough. I loved Piazza San Marco at sunset. I loved Venezia at sunset, the canals glowed, the vaporetto ride magical, peeking into grand old palazzos were fun, and the Biennale penguins hanging out on balconies made things a little surreal.

Then I tried to get work to pay for a 3rd trip to grand Venezia, as we had projects and exhibits at the Biennale. Alas, it wasn't meant to be since I got sick for a month. Sigh. Will have to head out there on my own, and am hoping to plan a trip for next March. Solo. So I can soak up the mystique of grand old Venezia.

lcallow

Put me firmly in the camp that loves Venice.

My thoughts in reply to another post give some of the reasons.

"I just wanted to say - do not miss Venice.

My reasoning is that Venice is unique, there is nowhere that I have seen that is at all like it. Rome, Florence, London, New York, Paris . . . are more like each other than any of them is like Venice.

This has much (or all) to do with there being no cars, trucks, mopeds or even bicycles and to the fact that there is no modern part of the city. Indeed much of it looks almost identical to the way it looked centuries ago.

You may or may not like it but it is unique and I would suggest that you do not miss it. Rome and Florence will be more like many places that you have been while Venice will be different.

Myself, I love that difference and go to Venice at every opportunity. I have been back 3 times since dropping in for 3 days/2 nights to 'check it off the list' after a trip to Barcelona a couple of years ago. Each time I stay at least ten days and am going back for more in May."

also some beautiful words about Venice here:
http://www.livingveniceblog.com/2006...-been/#more-65

the whole site that this is from is excellent.

I believe that you will fall in love with Venice as well.

Have a wonderful journey.

Leonard

adventureseeker

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TerryLFred

When I read this thread, I just had to respond.

While I don't "hate" Venice, it is certainly not a place I plan to return.

It's funny that people say the food isn't that great as in other parts of Italy, but I actually disagree. My husband and I had some great meals in Venice. But I could relate to Maitaitom's comment about it seeming like "Disneyland" because that is the exact description my husband and I said about Venice.

We are glad we went just so we could mark it off our "list" but we definitely don't see what the big attraction is. Personally, I'd rather spend a week in Rome.

But there are worse places. Like I said, we had a relatively good time there and we are glad we can say we've been there, but we feel it is mostly a tourist trap.

nessundorma

I really enjoyed much of my weeklong stay in Venice and plan to return, but I greatly prefer staying for extended periods of time in other parts of Italy and Europe.

I can understand why many people think that the longer one stays in Venice, the more inevitable it will be that you will like it, and that the only people who don't like it are those who don't spend enough time there.

But I don't think it is quite that simple. I have known art students who spent months in various Italian cities, and many report Venice as their least favorite as a place to live.

Venice is a unique city but so are many other places, like Amsterdam or Perugia or even Hiroshima. I would recommend all those places, too, as singular, educational eye openers, but whether or not you "love" Venice has as much to do with who you are and what appeals to you as a traveler as does falling in love with an individual.

jbmea626

Just came back last week from 3 days in Venice (and 3 florence, 1 pisa) and wished we had another day in venice. I loved it. I it is like no place i have ever seen. Yes it was expensive, food and such but what an amazing place. I also stayed at the Locanda Orseolo. What a true delight. the people are absolutely sweet as can be and very helpful. breakfast is great too.

amyb

I've followed this thread with great interest as I am planning to go to Venice in May. Based on being a rabid reader of this board, I think I have similar interests to some of the posters on this thread who love Venice, but then some of the reasons people give for not liking Venice are similar to reasons why I don't like other cities. Hmmmm.

For reference, I love Paris, Florence, Prague and Edinburgh. I am lukewarm about London, Belfast and Dublin. And I really don't like Rome, Vienna, New York, Brussels. So it'll be interesting to see how I react to Venice.

The one thing I wonder is if it matters where you're coming from or headed to before or after Venice. I'll be coming from Paris, which I'm not sure is a good thing or not. The other concern I have is sensory overload...I'm going to indulge in my love of Paris, then similarly indulge in a Disney for adults in Venice? Hmmm...

BowenLinda

amyb, a friend and I visited Paris for the first time a year or so ago, and then flew to Venice. It was her first trip to Venice, and my second.

We were enchanted by both cities, and didn't find Venice too much after Paris. The cities are very different but share a certain formality, grandeur, beauty.

And I differ from some other posters re arriving in Venice: the first time was via the train station at about sunset and it was breathtaking. The second time was via the Aliguna from the airport in the dark and was disappointing.

nessundorma

I think sensory overload is a real possibility in Venice! Especially if you pile one museum and/or church/scuola interior on top of another.

One way to avoid is this is schedule a non-museum/church/scuola interior for the morning only (or afternoon only) and devote the other part of the day to walking the back alleys, the Jewish ghetto, a trip to Torcello (alot 4 hrs), or the much shorter one to San Giorgio for the view, or whatever else rests the eyeballs.

A lot of Venetian art and decorative objects, from all eras, is very elaborate and densely worked. It's quite busy, rich and dazzling. Pile all the mask shops on top of that, and your head can really start to buzz.

One church interior that tends to be more restful is Santa Maria dei Frari, with its cavernous space, it's straightfoward Titian above the altar, and its curious tombs. Walking to there from other sights takes a while, giving a needed break. Another idea for some contrast to all the richness of antique Venice is lunch on the terrace of the Peggy Guggenheim museum, which has a restful view along with the austerity and simplicy of modern art.

nessundorma

Ooops. My advice should have been typed:

"Schedule the museums/churches/scuolas for the morning, then do non-museum things in the afternoon, or vice versa."

franco

Of course, I respect everybody who doesn't love Venice as much as I do - but I don't understand who anyone could possibly call it a "Disneyland for adults". Excuse me, but this is simply silly. There is nothing new or rebuilt in Venice. It was the richest and mightiest city in the whole world for centuries; and almost everything they built in that splendid period is still there.
So if you don't like Venice, you might call it a museum (though it's not true, believe me - but anyway!). But a "Disneyland", that's a quite ridiculous qualification. It's all genuine!