Please excuse the lack of specific names of wines/cheeses/ churches/etc. and my cursory review - I really was interested in relaxing and enjoying myself this time - everything written is recollected from my grappa soaked memory.

11/6
Arrived to bone grey skies and rain but the Adriatic had this wonderful luminous milky jade green glow to it. The Alaguna is easy to find, inexpensive (10E) but takes an hour to get to San Marco. I stayed at the Locanda Orseolo (http://www.locandaorseolo.com/) - perfect location for my first visit to Venice - situated between the Piazza San Marco and the Rialto, on it's own almost private campo - an easy 2 minute walk to San Marco. The owners and staff made my stay comfortable and warm - both the omlette with spec, cheese and mushrooms and chocolate crepes are great. Room was 110E a night. After unpacking /showering I headed back out to wander and get a light bite to eat. (I was able to find almost all the restaurants I wanted without much trouble, much to my surprise)

Al'Aciugheta
Campo SS. Filippo e Giacom, Castello
daily: noon-midnight
I stood at the bar and had something like 15 cicheti. I especially like the tuna wrapped in pancetta. Also good were (I think) cigale - looks like a small lobster without claws, the flesh was white with almost a blush of lavender, very sweet meat. I was surprised that a majority of the cicheti were served slightly warmed. I had 3 glasses of wine - tried a Veneto, Fruili and Tokay white - all pleasent and quaffable. An espresso and a grappa to finish off my meal. The bill came to 25 E. (I was the only one standing at the bar - I think I was hoping for a Seville tapas bar type experience but that scene seems to happen later and not as close to San Marco)

After wandering around a bit - stopped in at the Hotel Londra to confirm my dinner reservation and have a couple Campari spritzes - 2 spritzes, 14E (at other cafes and fewer starred hotel bars, a spritz cost around 4E).

Do Leoni
http://www.hotelondra.it
Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello
Started with a glass of prosecco. An amuse of basil soup (foam?) with a small wedge of mozzerella and tomato followed - light , flavourful. Started with thinly sliced beef on white polenta followed with pumpkin tagliatelli with black truffles - both dishes were somewhat restrained , quiet. For my secondo , veal with roasted vegatables - perfectly prepared. For dessert - I cannot remember if I had cheeses or something sweet. The bottle of red suggested by the waiter was a good recommendation - medium bodied - I remember it opened up nicely. Bill came to 136E. Afterwards retreated to their bar for a couple grappas - one was amber colored and very smooth. Not a bad meal - not great for the price - but a nice first meal in Venice. Service was very attentive and kind.

The Piazza was misty and practically empty as I headed (stumbled) back to the hotel.

11/7
Woke to grey skies. Beneath my window the canal was being dredged and gondoliers were arguing over Asian tourists - oh well, so much for serenissima. After breakfast toured St. Marco - had a reservation for 10:45 but was unessecary. Bags and backpacks are not allowed inside so I ran back to Orseolo and dropped off my backpack. As you walk in there is a stairway on your right - the original four horses are upstairs (3E). Also the view from the mezzanine level of the interior of St. Marco and the outside view of the Piazza are not to be missed. I was not. at first, impressed with the interior - really drab and dull and I thought, "I bet this place looks wonderful on a sunny day - the gold mosaic all lit up by the sunlight - oh well maybe sometime later this week if the weather cooperates). Decided to run back to Orseolo again to get my digital camera to take pictures from the blacony overlooking the Piazza. By the time I had returned they had turned on the interior lights of the church - wow. The ceiling - the walls - everything glowed in gold. I'm so glad I came back. The mosiacs are beautiful - the interior reminded me so much of Haigh Sophia. Afterwards I just wandered - taking pictures, getting lost, walking into churches, pausing to take in a belvedere, noticing textures of walls and architectural details - I really wasn't sure what else I wanted to do today - I mainly wanted to decompress, slow down and absorbed (no manic tour book - got to see it all - check off list mentality) . Started thinking about lunch and decided to go to Al Prosecco in Santa Croce (via Dosoduro, I was up for a challenge) - as I began to ascend the Accedemia bridge, a huge grin came across my face - it was my first time seeing the Grand Canal, with all its boats - what an amazing site - the vaporetto lumbering along, the skinny gondolas rocking up and down back and forth, boat taxis cutting wakes - I stood and watched - as schmalzy as it sounds - this choreographed ballet of boats. After getting a bit turned around, I found Al Prosecco. For books I brought City of Falling Angels and 2 other books about Oaxaca and Spain - though the last two stayed mainly in the room. City of Falling Angels was a really fun read - lots of synchronity occured - which was fun. I understand though Ventians do not care for the book. I found his writing a bit like a metronome in tone - at times soothing, at other time annoying.

Al Prosecco
Campo S. Giacomo da l'Orlo, Santa Croce
A wonderful assortment of meats and local cheeses with a small salad - all delicate and quiet. I tried 3 recommended red wines from the Vento area - medium bodied with, once again, peppery over(under?)tones - nice nose. I pulled out my book and read for awhile - nibbeling and sipping wines. Afterwards had a grappa and espresso at the bar. The bill came to 22.50E. I noticed they had paninni for like 1.50E at the bar. There is also seating outside on the campo - unfortunately it was a tad chilly to sit outside. I was the only tourist in the place - ahh if I had only worn black they would have never guessed, right?

After lunch I once again meandered about - stumbled upon a great little bakery with delicious rum-filled, fruit-filled, nut-filled truffles - and I have no idea where exactly it is. I can't agree more with others who have stressed getting away from San Marco and the tourist crowds and allowing oneself to get lost. Invariable you'll see a sign pointing to a major landmark if you get really lost - just follow them until things become familiar again - you are after all on an island, you can only go so far.

By late afternoon the clouds had broken, as had the chill - I made my way over to the train station and hopped on the #1 vapporetto to see the Grand Canal. For all it's perceived lumbering the #1 moves fairly quickly - trying to match palazzos with the guide book and read the information was quickly abandoned and I once again, just took in the scenery. Back in San Marco, I went back to the Hotel Londra for a spritz (or two) then to the hotel (passing the pigeon covered tourists) for an afternoon nap. Though it might seem nice to leave the window ajar I was amazed at how voices and footsteps carried, probably due to all the stone.

For dinner the hotel suggested Al Fontego dei Pescaori.

Al Fontego dei Pescaori
Cannaregio
Set on a canal just off Strada Novo. Started with a plate of cicheti. For primi - grilled scallops - could have been a bit firmer. For my secondo, the owner recommended fresh grilled dorada (I'm pretty sure) - which he deboned for me - it was fine. (I realize I have become somewhat spoiled by the dorada in Croatia) The owner recommended a pleasent white. For dessert, local cheeses, espresso then a couple grappas ( beginning to recognize a pattern?) I think the bill came to about 90E.

What a beautiful tone....thank you for taking the time to write such a terrific review!!!
Ahhh the memories of such a poetic place!!!

This sounds like such a great trip. Thanks for posting it.

Very nice.

Thank you for making my day =D> Sounds divine.

we interrupt this trip report for an important message:

http://www.msn.americangreetings.com/
view.pd?i=382219626&m=1652&rr=y&s

(I put a hard return in so it wouldn't screw up the thread list on the left)

Dear Carta:

Great report!!

MY

Hi Carta P,

We have a very similar traveling style. I am enjoying you report very much.

May I ask you a probably ridiculous question? We are staying at Locanda in 10 weeks... Did they have hairdryers in the bathroom? (ha, hanging my head in shame, for of all the questions to ask of Venice...) I was going to just send an email to them because I looked this morning ironically on their website and there is no mention of hairdryers, but here was your report, so there you are.

Kindly, Tiff

p.s. I was surprised too with your statement on how easily you found the restaurants of your choosing, well done! I have just expected us to be lost alot, ha!

Woke to blue skies, mild temps, no dredging nor bantering gondoliers - ahh serenissima. Today - the Palazzo Ducale but with the incredible light bouncing off the lagoon and blue skies I got a bit side tracked. The Piazza was buzzing - the bands were playing - the cafe chairs had been set out in neat little rows - little children were being psychologically scarred for life by hoards of pigeons and laughing parents. I love the sound of the gondolas slapping against water - the numerous boats and ferries in the lagoon blaring their horns - what a cacophony of sight and sound. This was no theme park - this was a living breathing city, so easy to forget when being a tourist - and the light must somehow be refracted /reflected off the water. Or maybe being that it was late fall with the sun lower in the sky. After trying to get just those 'just right 'photos I toured the Ducale ( I think, 11E, maybe 12E) - slowly making my way up through room after room - loved the Map room with the two large globes - finally making it to the Sala del Maggiore Consiglio (Great Council Hall) - WOW - the sunlit streaming through the windows, bouncing off the terrazzo, the golden stucci on the ceiling ablaze, the huge Tintoretto painting (which had been restored by Save Venice, NYC) and then looking out one of the windows over the Lagoon - just amazing. I must have sat there for 15 minutes - just pondering what must have transpired in this room. More rooms - crossing the Bridge of Sighs - armor and swords - recrossing the Bridge of Sighs - spiralling downwards and then back out into the sunlight and the Piazza - simply fantastic. After that I needed to just walk and clear my head and get some lunch so I headed to Ai 4 Feri in Dosoduro, picking up postcards to do during lunch. The crowds peeled away layer by layer the farther I got from the Accedemia - noon and bells were ringing across Venice.

Ai 4 Feri
Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Dorsoduro
I had to ask a Venetian directions - who proceeded to take me in arm and walk me to the restaurant (" I was going this way," he said as he deposited me at the door, "enjoy.&quot A small trattatoria (osteria?) on a quiet walkway. On the counter beautiful dishes of prepared seafood and such. Huge shrimp with those dlicate antenna all lined up neatly - roasted cipolines - sardines. I started with gamberni in soar - a traditional Venitian dish. Then spaghetti frutti de mare ( not the exact term she used but you get the idea) - shrimps, mussles, clams with pasta and a couple glass of house red rounded out the meal - the bill, rounded up, came to 20E. ( I passed this place one night later in the week and it was packed with locals)

Tiff -
There was a hair dryer in my room. As for finding places - I aimed for a prominent landmark and then narrowed my search when I got closer - still had to backtrack a bit, try going left then right - I found not getting too 'map clingy' was helpful.

"Map clingy".....I have the map of Venice tatooed on my forearms....would that be considered too "map clingy"?? lol

You have captured Venezia brilliantly...layers of texture & colors!!
Thank you for taking the time to post this wonderful report!!

(darn....can't open the link to American Greeting.....time to upgrade this old MAC........)

Outstanding, thanks Carta.

Great report, Tiff

(I just finished making pasta with brown butter and sage and opened a bottle of Barbera - let's see where was I...)

I cannot recall what I did after lunch - I may have wandered and photographed, may have sat in a cafe on a campo reading, went back to the hotel for a nap - I'm really not sure. Anyway - on to dinner. I had read numerous wonderful reviews on eGullet.com, chowhound.com and guide books about Alle Testiere. (I arranged all my dinner reservations in advance through my hotel)

Alle Testiere
Calle del Mondo Novo, Castello
The restaurant is fairly easy to find - just head for S. Maria Formosa - just off the square across a small bridge. It is very small, probably 10 tables at most - there are two seatings a night. After an apertif, started with soft shelled crabs - these were great - not sure if these are seasonal or year round (anyone?). Very small (one could easily fit on a Ritz cracker, now there's a thought) - just pop the whole crab, claws and all, into to your mouth. The crabs had been dressed with something that gave them just a little acidic bite - very fresh. For my primi - gnocci with prawns and mushrooms. The gnocci were so light and they melted in my mouth - the brown sauce was delicious - the prawns were ever so tiny, slightly crunchy - excellent. My secondo was red mullet in a mint sauce - this dish was a let down. For dessert local cheeses, followed by espresso and grappa. The waiter had suggested a nice bottle of white. Bill came to around 90E.

I arrived in Padova around 11am. I followed the signs towards the historic centro and for Cappella degli Scrovegni (www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it). You do have to buy a ticket for a schedule visit to see the interior of the church however reservations in advance are not necessary (at least in November). The interior of the church (while not as detailedl as the Sistine chapel) is still quite moving - the build up really primes you for the pay off - a definite must see and worthy of a day trip. Afterwards I walked into the historic center and walked around - college students giving speeches were being showered with condiments and such, a graduation tradition (in Venice a graduate gets tossed into a canal). I didn't have a lot of time to explore the town after Scrovegni but did have a chance to stop into the tourist board to pick up a few brochures - I would like to get back to this town for a few days. An acquaintance, who owns the restaurant, Gascogne (http://www.gascognenyc.com) at 18th and 8th avenue in Chelsea, extolled the area around Padova as rich in gastronomic delights and architectural beauty. At 12:45 I caught a taxi to Calandre for lunch.

(please insert before previous posting - it's getting late and the Barbera is...)

11/9
Woke to blue skies and mild temps - if this is what November is like (including smaller crowds) I'm always coming back in off season - I cannot imagine being here in peak season. Decided to do a day trip to Padova - one because I wanted to get off the island and two to have lunch at El Calandre, about 15 minutes outside Padova.  There are trains leaving for or stopping at Padova every 20 to 30 minutes - really easy to get to. I must have caught the local because it took 45 minutes. Round trip ticket cost 5E.

Calandre
http://www.calandre.com/
via Liguria 1, 35030
Sarmeola di Rubano (PD)

If you're looking for a truely unique eating experience (and somewhat expensive) you may want to try Calandre. I did the menu degustacion with local wine pairings - the entire meal lasted for about 4 hours. A playful experience - I have never eaten so many dishes with my fingers in such a high caliber restaurant - and i liked that while the food was serious it wasn't an uptight dining experience (dinner might be a bit more formal). They serve updated contemporary Italian cuisine but not as far out there as el Bulli, in Spain. The wines were interesting - the service and dishware superlative. My favorite dish was the beef tartar rolled in black truffles served on a white truffle egg cream sauce - I was hesitant at first to eat this with my finger but then got into it to the point of licking my fingers at the end - it was really good - the cream sauce was divine. The cheese carts were so redolent and fragrant. One hard cheese with specs of black truffles was very interesting and unique in flavor. Here's a quick rundown:

amuse - pastry filled cone with tomato foam
salad with a beer sorbet, spec and chicken
a large prawn, stuck on a stick like a lollipop, wrapped in a potato string, with a green dipping sauce
pastry rolls filled with cheeses and herbs with a robust fresh plum tomato sauce for dipping
potato soup with cuttle fish and black ink
saffron risotto with a dusting of licorice powder
beef tartar with black truffles on a egg truffle cream sauce
pig with a dusting of powdered espresso and mustard sauce
various sheep and cow cheeses - especially liked a hard cheese with black truffles
dessert course was in 2 parts - a fun playful experience - chocolate covered mint leaf, eggplant dipped in chocolate was surprisingly good, banana sorbet dropped into a the thick chocolate soup just to mention a couple experiments

How many glasses of wine - they were very generous - 11? 12?. Would I do it again? Yes. Was it expensive - yes (not as expensive as Daniel NYC and a much more satisfying experience) Did I leave feeling bloated? No - but very sated.

Got back to Venice around 7 (there are trains constantly terminating in Venice) and walked back to the hotel. After a early evening nap I went out for a semi-late night nibble.