Hello everyone,

I will take my mom to Venice in late March. We rented an apartment in the San Marco district and will stay for a week. Some questions came up and I hope someone here can help. Any other advice is welcome, too, of course!

We will arrive quite late (6:25 pm) at the train station Sta. Lucia. I thought we buy a weekly vaporetto pass, which means we need to buy single trip tickets for either arrival or departure day. I am leaning toward single trip ticket for each of us to get to our apartment (Rialto stop) on arrival day. Will the Venezia Unica ticket office (or any other) still be open on a Wednesday that late? Or do we buy from a ticket machine?`Do we need to buy extra tickets for the luggage? I gather we need to validate the tickets before boarding the vaporetto. When we travel on the weekly pass, do we need to validate that pass every time we board a vaporetto or just the first time?

We plan to walk around a lot, ride the vaporetti and just soak up the special ambience. However, of course we will want to visit some churches and museums. My mom gets tired quickly in museums (age 81), so must limit the museum visits - only highlights or small museums/galleries. She is not into modern art. Any recommendations? And is there a museum pass that I could buy (I may visit more museums.)

Regarding churches: San Marco basilica, Frari, Zanipolo, Santa Maria delle Salute, San Giorgio Maggiore are already on the list. Most of them cost an admission, right? Is there a pass that would pay off? I found the chorus pass, however, it does not include any of the churches listed above. And I am afraid even with one week we won't have enough time to see them all ... ;-)

Any recommendations for restaurants? As we will stay in an apartment, we might not go out for dinner every night - probably only two or three nights. However, I would love to know about places for lunch - nothing fancy, more typical regional food and places where locals eat.

I might come back with more questions, but that's enough for now. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

There is a ticket booth right in front of the station near the dock. Looking at the website you're allowed up to three bags if the measurements for the bags add up to less than 150cm BUT Venice is not the place to drag three bags. Don't over pack

You can add museums to the pass. There used to be an option for the churches but I don't see it now. Not sure if I'm missing it or they've removed it.

https://www.veneziaunica.it/en/e-commerce/services

Build your own

Hey Ingo! Can't help with your questions, but just wanted to say it's good to see you here!

Thanks a lot Nick, that helps! Excellent website ... I will definitely buy the Venezia Unica card there and will probably add a couple of museums. Will do a search for the churches elsewhere.

Hi Mel! Thank you, good to see you here, too. I know you posted a trip report but I didn't have time to read it - will do so later and comment for sure. Cheers!

Ingo! I am so happy to see your name here. I hope you are well. You will be going to one of my very favorite places and I hope you will do a report. We loved Ca 'Rezzonica. It's a beautiful palazzo with an art museum on the top floor. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ca%27_Rezzonico. We also enjoyed the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. https://www.guggenheim-venice.it/en/ . Opposite ends of art really They are both in Dorsoduro. I think your mom would like the second one better. It's smaller and also on the Grand Canal for boat watching.

Those are two of my favorite things in Venice but the list is long. Venice is just magic for me. I hope it is for you and your mom too.

Hello Gomiki! Great to see you here. Yes, all is well, and I hope you are doing well also. Yep, I'll write a report for sure, including pictures I have been to Venice before (but many years ago), my mom not. Ca'Rezzonico and Peggy Guggenheim collection are noted, thank you for the recommendations! LOL, watching the boats on Canal Grande is exactly what my mom will love.

Don't miss the little jewel, Miracoli church. Just a short walk from Giovanni e Paolo (Zanipolo)

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll put it on the list.

I am in Venice now and spent the last four days with friends. Three of the nights we had dinner at some of my favorite places, So here are some current notes (I have been going to all three for over 25 years.)

Taverna San Trovaso - something for everyone here, it is hugely popular with locals and tourists and just around the corner from the Accademia Bridge therefore a perfect lunch stop after the Accademia or Guggenheim museums.

Osteria da Alberto in Cannaregio (between the Miracoli church and SS Giovanni & Paolo) is a very Venetian eatery that has been owned and run by the same guys for around 30 years. The chef is the same but they have recently brought on a second chef who has made this place even better. We had an awesome meal here. It was always good, but the level has gone higher.

Ai Promessi Sposi has been my #1 for years but I think Osteria da Alberto has now pushed them to #2. Still love it wholeheartedly. If you like tartar, this is the place to get it (beef or tuna.) the menu changes with the seasons. They have two dinner seatings, 7 and 9 pm.

Even in late February when pretty quiet we reserved, thankfully, as all three places were pretty full and in fact Taverna San Trovaso was “completo.” Lunch would be easier.

I have two quiet days for myself now, and plan to hit my favorite pizzeria Casa Mia and who knows what else. I can post more if you want info on cafes/bars as we hit many of my favorites.

They had problems with the ACTV machines. I would recommend buying your vaporetto pass from a human. Staying in San Marco can be tough for groceries. The whole area around the Accademia bridge too.

A huge thanks, rialtogrl! That is extremely helpful. All your restaurant tips are noted. Yes, please keep the infos coming! I would love to hear more about your favorite pizzeria and especially about cafes/bars.

I will check if the info / ticket desk at Sta. Lucia station is open when we arrive after 6 pm. If not, and the machines are not working, we might run over to Piazzale Roma where - if my info is correct - the Venezia Unica visitor centre will be open till 8 pm.

Where would you recommend shopping for groceries? We can do this during the day while wandering around other districts.

Thanks again. Enjoy the remaining days in Venice!

For the vaporetto, you can just use the machines at the station if the office is closed. You only need to pay for luggage if it's super bulky, so you should be fine. Just remember to tap your pass every single time you board, not just once.

Since your mom needs to take it easy, check out the Museo Correr right on San Marco square. It has elevators and plenty of spots to sit. For food, try to find some cicchetti bars for lunch. It is basically Venetian tapas, very cheap and local.

Have a great time!

NanoBossana, thanks very much! Especially for confirming that we need to tap the vaporetto pass every single time we board.

Museo Correr is definitely on the list. My mom will make good use of the spots to sit I am looking forward to the cicchetti ... and any other food and drinks ;-)

Thanks again!

I second the recommendation for Ca Rezzonico, a lovely small palace which is now the Museum of 18th Century Venice. It is located near the Accademia vaporetto stop, directly on the Grand Canal. We were there last May, and it was not crowded at all. A peaceful oasis from the bustling San Marco Piazza. You can take the vaporetto there if you don't want to walk.

We enjoyed our dinner at Muro Frari, which is near the Frari church that is on your list. It could be a nice stop for lunch or dinner before or after you visit the church.

We also loved having cichetti's and drinks at Terrazza Nobli on the Zattere along the Guidecca Canal in Dorsoduro. A beautiful spot. Drinks and cichetti's were very reasonably priced. You could also have lunch or dinner here, too.

Are you interested in a gondola ride? We boarded our gondola at Campo S. Barnaba in Dorsoduro. We told our gondolier we wanted to stay on the quiet side canals. It was heaven! Very peaceful and enjoyable. We almost didn't do this because we thought it was "too touristy", and I am so happy we changed our minds.

Karen, thanks a lot for these tips. 18th century is exactly up my mom's alley, so Ca Rezzonico makes it high up on the list. I checked the websites of your restaurant tips and they look very promising. Craft beer at Muro Frari could be a nice change from all the wine ;-)

We are still undecided about a gondola ride and will decide once there. I am leaning towards doing one and your recommendation (almost) convinced me ... LOL

I knew I could rely on the Fodorites for recommendations. Thanks again!

Ingo, go to the Rialto market when you arrive, for groceries! There is nothing like shopping there. One of our evenings my friend made a fantastic cioppino. You do not have to go that far cooking-wise, but you can get a lot of excellent provisions and make a fun morning of it. Go to the veggie stands next to the fish area for the best quality. My shopping always concludes with Drogerie Mascari (they close at 1pm and reopen at 4pm) for wine and mostarda to go with my cheese, and Casa del Parmigiano for cheese and salumi. Then I always stop at Al Merca next to Casa del Parmigiano for a spritz followed by cichetti at All ‘Arco. I am a creature of habit, no way around it. These places get insanely busy on Saturdays. It might be better to go with your mother Tuesday or Wednesday, especially if she likes to sit.

in San Marco my friends rented a place for us close to Campo Santo Stefano and there was a very good alimentari shop with a great deli, decent wine selection and other things you might needs. It was a bit expensive but we must support these small family shops. It is on Calle della Botteghe next to osteria al Bacareto. Depending on where you are staying it could be convenient.I had to go to the other side of the Grand Canal to find decent bread.

I went to Casa Mia for pizza not once but twice. Same owner after all these years, he was manning the pizza oven which is in the front of the room. Saturday night I arrived at 7.15 and the place was already packed with local families. Last night I went again because I was up the street watching futbol in a pub and at 7.30 needed to get something in my belly. The pizza is not like Naples but it is so satisfying. They have other stuff too. The house red wine is really good. If you want a place locals go to, reasonably priced, look no further.

bars/cafes - soooo many
Gia Schiavi in Dorsoduro (wine shop/bar with fantastic crostini but zero seating)
al Squero up the street for spritz
Bar Alla Toletta over the bridge for tremezzini (small sandwiches on white bread)
Al’Archivio across from the Frari if you need a break around there.
Bacarotto on the way from the Frari to Campo Santa Margherita. You can get a drink and sit in the window, it’s so cozy, might be kind of loud for your mom though.

in Castello very close to Piazza San Marco I really like wine bar 5000. You can sit with your mother and count the gondolas going by. It’s not cheap but lovely and with nice guys behind the bar.
also my #1 on the Via Garibaldi if you make it that far east - Il Refolo. He only opens at 4pm weekdays but 1.30 weekends. The only seating is on high stools, though. I love the little grilled panini here and they have my fave vermut, Fred Jerbis (made in Pordenone)

Cannaregio:
Cantina Vecia Carbonera - a good stop for wine and cicchetti on the busy road from the train station but in the back is a large room that is a little oasis. Sometimes with good jazz playing.
close by is Enoteca due Colonne, another uber popular spot for cicchetti..if you want to try local craft beer they have Morgana which is made in Treviso.
un Mondo di Vino close to the Miracoli church - rub elbows with drunk locals and Japanese tourist, never a dull moment. Lots of cicchetti options. It can get pretty insane inside in the evening, but midday and afternoons are not too bad. (I love it in evening.)

karenwoo has the right idea about the gondola, if you do it, pick one at some off the beaten track place. NOT in San Marco. Otherwise you get on a track that you can see from Wine Bar 5000 with a gazillion other people. It is wonderful, and worth it, but the magic is the solitude of going down little empty canals,

You can Google locations for the bars etc… hope this helps.

Wow, Rialtogrl, this is so extremely helpful, thanks a million! I am busy taking notes ... all these recommendations sound wonderful. We are staying behind Chiesa San Salvador, very central location, but also in a very touristy area. Rialto market seems to be close enough, though. I cannot wait to sample all these tramezzini and cicchetti Good bread is important! Will research some more for that ...

Have a great time in Venice!

You will be so close to the Rialto market you can go for morning pastries!

Will do exactly that! What are the market days and when does it open? Thank you again!

Tuesday through Saturday, I am not sure how early it opens but I imagine by 8:00. The fish market starts to shut down at 12:00, veggies a bit later The shops close around 1pm but some reopen later in the day. Another nice place that you can find a place to sit is Bancogiro which has tables on the canal (just make sure to take a table that is not set up for lunch, unless you want lunch.) There are a couple of other places to sit for a drink or lunch on either side as well.

Thanks again! 8 am is fine with me; no need to get up too early while on vacation ;-) Looking forward to munching a cornetto and sipping my coffee there ...