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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 02:10 PM
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Venice Apartment Rentals - new website

<i>Buon Natale e Felice Anno Nuovo tutti!</i> Happy holiday greetings from Italy.

I'm typically not inclined to post on TravelTalk while traveling but a dear friend sent word that his new website is &quot;live,&quot; and I thought this info could help certain travelers with current and future travel plans. (I'll respond to any replies, if necessary, when I return to NYC in February.)

The two apartments featured at &lt;www.permessovenezia.com&gt; are not new to TravelTalk. Giovanni Brancalion and his properties have been mentioned here many times but, with this new site, the photographs and information offer much more detail.

I have no personal experience with these apartments and I've never met Signore Brancalion but my friend and colleague, who photographed the properties and designed the website, has known Signore Brancalion since the early 90's and has stayed at both places on numerous occasions. (My friend has traveled with me many times and I think I've mentioned him in a thread or two.)

Here's what I know:

Giovanni Brancalion is a native Venetian who works near Campo San Stefano. Word is he is very knowledgeable and charming, an easy-to-like guy. He owns both properties and you meet and deal directly with him when you rent. There is no agent or small-business feel to the transaction. The rental procedure is easy-going, uncomplicated, and friendly. Giovanni is a youngish, handsome man (I've seen pictures) who speaks English fairly well but may have some difficulty writing in English. He publishes his cell phone number and he seems easy to reach.

Obviously, Palazzo Regina Vittoria is the grander property and with its easy proximity to Piazza San Marco, it is the more popular choice. My friend tells me the Cannaregio apartment offers a terrific adventure for the right customer. With easy convenience to Ferrovia/Piazzale Roma/Ponte della Guglie, he says it's perfect for travelers on a budget who enjoy clean and simple surroundings and appreciate the easy access in and out of Venice.

Calle Riello, where the Cannaregio House is located, is a charming, quiet, residential block a mere three-minute walk from the train station. It's a bit wider than your typical <i>calle</i> in Venice, therefore, it gets more light. Depending on time of year, the sun sets on Calle Riello, which is a nice touch.

Some travelers might not know how to enjoy a ground floor property but my friend loves to leave the front door open in warmer weather (typically Venetian) and encourages the local neighbors to join him in wine and conversation. Directly behind this apartment is a Cannaregio park that very few tourists know about and/or visit.

Considering the cost and the very limited space and amenities in average 3-star hotel rooms in Venice, and the ever competitive rental market, both of Signore Brancalion's properties seem priced below his competition. With a full time job in an unrelated field, real estate/rentals appears to be a hobby.

What are the down sides? There don't seem to be many. I hear the stairway leading to the bedrooms in Regina Vittoria is an odd design (half steps for each foot) but, unless you rely on a cane or have serious hip ailments, this shouldn't interfere with your comfort and enjoyment of the place.

My friend insists both apartments are quiet with ample heat in winter and good quality air-conditioning in summer. Neither apartment offers a magical water view but each has plenty of light and looks out onto residential life in Venice in a unique way. (This year the water views have been seriously interrupted, thanks to the moon and unusually warm weather in January. Another first for me.)

With no agent, Signore Brancalion meets and greets you himself which he claims to enjoy. He'll even help with your luggage. But sometimes his &quot;real&quot; job will not coordinate well with your precise or altered-at-the-last-minute arrival time and you'll be asked to wait for him. Remember, patience is a virtue when renting vacation apartments abroad.

Also, if there happens to be that rare, last minute plumbing disaster, there's little inventory to accommodate a switch. Luckily, Signore Brancalion has a veteran reputation for kindness, compassion and generosity. I'm confident he has a Plan B for any last minute inconveniences that could occur.

For the adventure traveler on a budget who wishes to explore the vacation rental experience in Venice, it seems Signore Brancalion offers a sure thing. He's been renting over a decade to many satisfied and repeat customers, and my friend is one of them. Good word of mouth is great. A great looking website is even better. Enjoy! &lt;www.permessovenezia.com&gt;
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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 02:16 PM
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Those apartments look fabulous! Thank you for sharing them!

Hope your trip to Italy is wonderful!

Sally
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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 02:23 PM
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Hmmm ! Looks very good NYCFS.
I was wondering where you had been.
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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 05:17 PM
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Both are nice, but it is amazing to me that spectacular San Marco one isn't about three times more in price than the Cannaregio one.

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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 06:16 PM
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This appears suspicious to me since this is not thru any well-known service and sounds too good to be true. I'm inclined to agree with Patrick. Anybody who's stayed here care to comment?
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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 06:23 PM
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Well, since you brought it up, jetcat, I'll say what I really thought. I couldn't help but feel there's something wrong here. How anybody could let that place in San Marco go for $1000 a week is beyond me. Unless there is something horribly wrong we can't see, he should easily be getting at least double that. I'd love to hear from a regular person (not connected to him in some way) actually try to rent it and see what happens.
Maybe it's just my doubting Thomas attitude but something seems very wrong here.

Now the one in Cannaregio is logically priced.
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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 06:27 PM
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It's also interesting that although NYCFS mentions that Giovanni Brancalion and his properties have been mentioned here many times, I can't find a single reference in all my attempts to search for them.
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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 06:37 PM
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But both apartments do come up on holiday-rentals.com, and at those same prices.
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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 06:41 PM
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I have this image of a guy on the beach with a laptop and an umbrella'd drink. NYCF had 30 posting since October. Nothing further back. Could be just a hit and run. It seemed to be an extensive &quot;sell&quot; for someone with nothing to gain. But here's the real mystery: &quot;who's the guy on the beach...NYCFoodSnob or Signore Brancalion?&quot;
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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 06:48 PM
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Wait, one part of the mystery is solved.
NYCFoodSnob is a woman. Or am I the only one who didnt know this?
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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 07:26 PM
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I found this post from wesley from December 2003 advocating the San Marco apartment:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34462331
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Old Jan 27th, 2005, 07:27 PM
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jetcat, NYCFoodSnob has been a long-time poster here - since at least 2003.
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Old Jan 28th, 2005, 07:36 AM
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My dear friend, NYCFS, warned me about the cynicism on this board but I fully understand travel expectations and disappointments. I'm a very tall guy and my Venice hotel bathroom horror stories deserve to be published. Good things are getting harder and harder to find, as are thoughtful, generous people.

When I first discovered Giovanni many years ago, I, too, thought he was too good to be true. I pulled a review of his Regina Vittoria property off an obscure web page long before the birth of Google, when internet research really did consume a year of your life. I found this young, newly married couple who lived on Lake Shore Drive in Chicago reveling in well-written tales about their honeymoon antics in Venice. Their candid praise of Giovanni and his Regina Vittoria apartment (which back then cost $500 a week) compelled me to contact him. We've been friends ever since.

Maybe I did too good a job on Giovanni's website because Regina Vittoria is not as luxe as one might think. Basically, it's one large, loft-style room with just enough hint of grandeur to make you feel really good about choosing to stay there. The custom design is superb and there's plenty of comfort and function to be found but as Giovanni likes to say, &quot;It's not livable for everyday use but it's wonderful for short-term stays.&quot; I agree.

I know many friends in NYC who would kill for the space Regina Vittoria provides. They'd be content with that kitchen-in-a-closet, too, since that's pretty standard in many New York apartments. The truth is, Giovanni doesn't rent as a livelihood so, to him, it isn't about the money. It's about offering an exciting and unique visit to any enthusiastic visitor.

Even though I prefer hiring the porters at Giardinetti, Giovanni insists on coming to help me with my luggage. &quot;This is what Venetians do,&quot; he says, &quot;piacere!&quot;

Come to think of it, Giovanni is too good to be true. That's why I love him and his properties.

(jetcat, be sure to ask Giovanni about his rental Ski Chalet in Cortina. He can provide you with the the web link. It is spectacular.)

Marc Daniels
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Old Jan 28th, 2005, 09:11 AM
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Thanks for clearing up some issues, mdaniels. Yes, some of us are cynical. Years of traveling have taught us to be so. It's just that when I look at the one apartment and see 600 euro a week, that seems fair. But I look at the San Marco apartment and I think why shouldn't this be two or three times more money? What's wrong with it? Why is he only charging 200 euro more for so much more apartment and so much finer in detail and furnishing (starting with two sofas rather than a throw over a futon).

You have a point about the kitchen. Even that cupboard kitchen is more than I need or want on vacation, but I suppose it would stop a lot of people from renting it.

Your pictures are indeed grand. Maybe it looks a lot larger than it is, or more grand. But it still seems like the bargain of the century to me. I compare it to the &quot;cute&quot; little place we rented this summer in Dosoduro and suddenly think, &quot;wow, for another hundred dollars I could have had this place?&quot; It has a lot of style. I will be looking to book it in 2006 if indeed we do return to Venice.
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Old Jan 28th, 2005, 04:54 PM
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Patrick, even though I think your curiosity about cost differentials is understandable, it took years of friendship before I felt posing such a question to Giovanni would be considered appropriate. To be blunt, my European friends don't think about and/or discuss money the same way we do in America, or anywhere near as casually as we do in New York. Therefore, I do my best to respect cultural differences and everyone's desire for privacy.

When I first met Giovanni, Regina Vittoria was his only property. Even though I thought the rent seemed incredibly reasonable at the time, I couldn't afford more and I was grateful my tenacious research revealed something that seemed too good to be true. That's precisely what I was looking for and I'm glad it turned out better than I had imagined.

Years later, after his new Cannaregio acquisition and knowing Giovanni much better, I did ask about the price differential and he offered a simple explanation. He treats the Cannaregio House as a market-value property because it serves as an investment. The rental price is determined by the convenience of the location, the limit of occupants, the competition, and what the market will bear. Then he drops the price 15% and that's what you get.

The Regina Vittoria property has been owned much longer and he made the decision early on to keep it affordable. His initial goal was to attract the best of British and American visitors who were tired of Venice's overly-expensive, tiny hotel rooms at a time when few foreigners were willing to take a chance on private rentals.

Regina Vittoria has been listed on the holiday rentals.uk site for almost a decade, featuring simple photos taken by Giovanni. In spite of its lackluster web presence, Regina Vittoria garnered an established word-of-mouth clientele through the years from regulars who fell in love with this unique experience. Giovanni did not want to change any of that with his decision to upgrade to a newer and more artful presentation. So, in essence, he's keeping his loyal customers happy and now inviting new ones. He insists this is classic Venetian hospitality and he prefers to do business this way.

Regarding the kitchen, I've made many a great meal on a hot-plate so Regina Vittoria's kithenette is perfect for me. I can't afford to eat out every night (unless NYCFS is treating, which she often does) so I take full advantage of the conveniences that custom-made closet provides. There are wonderful little veggie stands, bread stores, and salumerie just off Campo San Luca, a two minute walk from the apartment.

My medium-format photos pretty much give an accurate scope of the place and the measurements provided on the billing page are dead on. Both couches are very comfortable and since I sport the frame of an American football player, my body can't tolerate uncomfortable furniture. But the couches are not intended for sleep-overs which means the place is ideally suited for three, even though four-to-six can sleep there depending on relationships and the inclusion of children. The place has its limits.

Yes, I would say at around $160 a night, for some (including me), this is a wonderful bargain. Regina Vittoria isn't grand enough for my dear friend (she isn't happy unless she's surrounded by antiques and lots of Scalamandr&eacute but it's also not affordable for those seeking $100-a-night shelter. It's special for a specific market.

Marc Daniels
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Old Jan 28th, 2005, 06:24 PM
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Nicest place I've seen in a long, long while. Doubly nice that a Venetian who could charge more isn't gouging. Definitely on my bookmark list. Thanks to NYFS for sharing.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2005, 04:03 PM
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Still awaiting a reply from the owner to my very specific and time-sensitive inquiry of 2-3 days ago. Does he not do e-mail?
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Old Feb 6th, 2005, 11:04 AM
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<i>&quot;Cynicism: that cloak that advertises our indifference and hides all human feeling. Well, I'm here to tell you that that cynicism that we think protects us, in fact, destroys. Destroys love, destroys our clients, and ultimately destroys ourselves!&quot;</i>

<i>from &quot;Intolerable Cruelty&quot;
written by Robert Ramsey, Matthew Stone, Ethan Coen, &amp; Joel Coen</i>

I didn't love this movie or the ubiquitous golden-hued light illuminating the lead actor's faces but I sure loved this line enough to go and write it down after I first heard it. Who knew that I'd be using it here to make a point.

Travel has taught me many things: language, understanding, compassion, taste, love, cultural differences, respect for religions, architecture, interior decoration (I do love Scalamandr&eacute, how to discern great food and wine, etc., and I doubt anyone has endured more heartache than me while on-the-road. After all, my first husband (controlling and insecure) dumped me in Venice during our first trip there and I still managed to fall in love with the place through a broken, melancholy heart and tear-filled eyes. Yet, I'm not a cynic.

The self-centered skepticism suggested in <i>&quot;there's something wrong here&quot;</i> or <i>&quot;there is something horribly wrong we can't see&quot;</i> or <i>&quot;but something seems very wrong here&quot;</i>, simply because one (grander) property is not marked-up in price (to the skeptic's expectations) more than another (less grand) property, is pure and simple cynicism (or some other unattractive agenda). How disappointing.

From my experience, cynical people aren't very happy; they tend to look at the world as a negative place filled with selfish, uncaring, opportunistic people. And we all know misery loves company.

When Marc showed me permessovenezia.com before it went &quot;live&quot; and I saw the price differential, the first thing that went through my mind was Signore Brancalion owned Regina Vittoria long before he purchased the Cannaregio House. I figured it had to have been in his family for many, many years. Typically Venetian.

Every cynic should know that real estate prices have gone through the roof in the last 20 years, especially in Venice where, today, more and more foreigners (particularly Brits) are sweeping up available properties, restoring them, and renting them out to visitors at the highest prices they can get. The demand is there in spite of America's weak dollar.

Real estate mortgages have only been locally available to Venetians in the last decade and the local registry tax (<i>imposta di registro</i and VAT on a second property more than doubles in cost from your first property. The market value of simple one-bedroom apartments has doubled in the last five years alone. The incentive for Venetians to invest in their own marketplace simply isn't there and, trust me, this frustrates them to no end. Maybe I'm smarter than your average tourist to Venice but this information has long been out there for anyone interested or curious about what it takes to own property in Italy and how Venetians, in particular, struggle with their real estate dilemma.

What really galls me, though, is the suggestion that I'm responsible, or anyone in my association is responsible, for fostering or encouraging a sham. Is it possible that such a well-designed website with so much detailed information and so many photographs could be nothing more than a true labor of love for a friend? My goodness, the maps are custom-made to avoid copyright infringement. Can a web designer be more conscienscious? Is it possible that the person who worked through hours and hours of detailed effort, creating this terrific web presence for a friend, is somehow harboring and hiding something <i>&quot;horribly wrong&quot;</i> with the specific intention to dupe readers? Maybe in some cynic's mind.

What's horribly wrong is that cynics exist and Travel Talk offers a place for them to post their sour, negative thinking, and there are plenty here who will listen and consider their (mis)guidance. The internet is for everyone and speech is free so I can't change much. But I will not idly stand by and let the cynics trash my Travel Talk reputation and integrity, or that of my colleagues, without speaking out.

With over 600 posts on this board and a plethora of veteran experience and thoughtful suggestions, I challenge anyone to come forward (in good conscience) and admit I steered them in the wrong direction. My travel and life experience speaks for itself; sweet optimists can take it and sour cynics can leave it. (All apologies accepted.)
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Old Feb 6th, 2005, 12:21 PM
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NYFS, come off your high horse please. Are you honestly saying that if you walked into a beautiful shop and saw all your beloved Scalamandre silks being sold as current patterns and first quality for $5.00 a yard, that you wouldn't be cynical and suspecting? Or wouldn't you be cynical if someone said there is a five star restaurant with the best food in all of Europe just off St. Marks Square and all meals are just 10 euro per person? Of course you would. There is nothing wrong with a little cynicism when confronted by what appears to be &quot;too good to be true&quot; and the world is full of unsuspecting suckers who thought they were getting something for nothing. Surely you've heard the old adage, &quot;if it seems too good to be true, it probably is.&quot;

I'm sorry, but I don't see anything above suggesting that you were setting up or supporting some sham or scam here, but it is pretty logical for some of us to have some cynicism when we see someone offering a rental for what appears to be way less than half price. No one is trying to trash your reputation, as you seem to suggest, but you have to admit it is only logical that people will at first question what appears to be too good to be true? Don't you agree? Now honestly? So please calm down. Why are you taking &quot;caution&quot; as being some personal attack against you? Did you forget to take your paranoia pills today?

It's one thing to say that this man doesn't want to gouge anyone. But it is quite another to believe that if the place is really what it seemed at first glance, that he would be charging far, far below a logical market price, literally &quot;giving it away&quot; to total strangers out of the goodness of his heart. One doesn't own and rent property just to be nice, let's face it -- no matter how nice a guy he is.

Your photographer friend has explained, and I've willingly accepted his explanation, I'm assuming others have as well-- especially in that the apartment does have some drawbacks and may not be quite so grand and spectacular as it first appears on the website. He has convinced us that perhaps the place while a real bargain is not the unbelievable great and &quot;impossible&quot; bargain that it appeared at first glance. Several of us have questioned, answers have been given, and we move on. Now, I suggest it is time for you to do the same. Did you not read my post in which I ackowledged his explanations and even indicated I would be interesting in renting it? And did you not see Tedgale's indication first in saying he was interested and then indicating he is trying to rent it? Why are you commenting only on the first posts before the explanations were given?
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Old Feb 6th, 2005, 08:45 PM
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The current rent for Regina Vittoria is $1,150.00 for the week. I would hardly call that cheap, or <i>&quot;far, far below a logical market price,&quot;</i> or <i>&quot;giving it away.&quot;</i> Whose horse is too high?

Comparing a $1,150.00 rental fee to silk selling for $5 a yard or a &euro;10 dinner off San Marco is just plain silly.

My comments are in response to cynicism and I stand by my definition.
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