Venice alla Zucca, A November Trip Report
Dec 3rd, 2005 | 01:56 PM
#1
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Venice alla Zucca, A November Trip Report
We made our second annual pilgrimage to Venice for Thanksgiving this year, from November 18 to November 25…and November 26 (more on that later). I took decent notes for the first few days, but slacked off about half way through the trip. I promise each day won’t be as long as the first!
The title of my report comes from the ridiculous amount of pumpkin/squash that I consumed in Venice. I managed to have pumpkin nearly every day (in a different form), and am going through some serious withdrawal.
<b>Days 1 and 2: From Here to There</b>
We purchased tickets early in the Spring on Air France for a grand total (including tax) of $453 between Washington Dulles and Venice Marco Polo. Definitely pays to buy early and take advantage of air fare sales!
Our 5:50 p.m. flight from Dulles was overbooked, and they were looking for volunteers to take the 10:10 p.m. flight instead. When we heard that they were offering a choice between $300 per person in Air France vouchers or $185 per person refund, we decided to take advantage of the offer. We opted for the refund (since we don’t actively wish to fly Air France…unless of course there’s another sale) and our $453 tickets were now $268 tickets. We also were put in the first row of economy which was an exit row. We requested the middle and aisle seats (since the window seat on an exit row usually has a bump-out), so we were pretty ecstatic with the unlimited leg room on our new flight. The bonus was that our row was next to the galley – not to the bathroom – so we did not have to deal with people waiting to use the bathroom and the flushing of toilets the whole flight.
We are living proof that you can make a 45 minute connection at CDG, though this is not the connection I would voluntarily pick (remember – we were rebooked when we volunteered to take a later flight). We arrived in 2E but were not parked at the gate, so they bussed us to terminal 2C. A woman near us also had a 45 minute connection, and the airline attendant told her that the quickest way from 2C to 2F (where our flights were departing) would be to walk. I told the woman that the quickest way would be by bus…and I’m pretty sure I was right. Since we bussed from 2E to 2C, we just got off the bus at 2C, went in the entrance, then made a u-turn and went out the exit for the busses to the other terminals in concourse 2. We waited about 1 minute for the bus. The biggest panic was arriving at 2C and having to clear immigration…and then also having to go through security again. When we got to our gate, they had just begun boarding, so we weren’t even the last people on the plane.
We took the blue ATVO bus from the airport to Piazzale Roma. Buy your tickets (3E each) from the machine outside, validate before you get on the bus, throw your luggage in the bottom of the bus, and off you go. It’s about 15 minutes from the airport to P. Roma.
We then took the vaporetto (5E each for 90 mins on the Grand Canal) to our Hotel. Yes, I know about the 24 hour vaporetto pass and the 72 hour pass, but we really don’t take the vaporetto except for our arrival and departure…we walk the rest of the time.
Speaking of our hotel….sigh…<b>Locanda Orseolo</b>. We stayed there last year, too, and I would never even consider staying somewhere else in Venice. Read the reviews on TripAdvisor, and you’ll still be completely shocked that this type of hotel exists. I had booked on January 1 for our trip, and was told that “our” room (Pulcinella, Room 15) was booked for the first 2 nights but that we could move to it on our 3rd night. Upon our arrival, Matteo gave us the kind of welcome you would get from your favorite cousin or your best friend and made us completely glow with happiness. The big surprise for us was that they had somehow made “our” room, Pulcinella, available for the entire duration of our stay. What a wonderful surprise – it was truly better than home.
Room 15 is on the first floor (really the second floor) of the Locanda. The room consists of a small hallway, a large bedroom, and a large bathroom with bidet, huge tub, and separate stall shower. The room has been completely redone in the last 2 years and is gorgeous – lots of red velvet, warm gold linens, and a theatrical mural on the wall. The room overlooks the Orseolo canal, and we were awakened every morning by the workmen (at about 5:00 a.m.) and then the gondoliers (at a more reasonable 7:30 a.m.). There are shutters that provide additional darkness and sound control for those who sleep light and are bothered by noise. There is a music system in the room that we would turn on (switch by the bed) whenever we were home. Oddly enough, every morning they played the same exact Sade cd…it was a bit like Groundhog Day.
We had pre-dinner drinks at <b>Bacaro Jazz</b> and dinner at <b>Acqua Pazza</b>. I love Acqua Pazza – one of my favorite restaurants in Venice. Pastas here are wonderful, as are the gargantuan (and expensive) pizzas. We had the fresh caprese salad made with fresh mozzarella, pasta shells stuffed with homemade ricotta cheese (YUM) and an eggplant pizza (melanzane pizza). We shared each plate, and no one gave us the stink eye for doing so. After we ordered, we were presented with an appetizer of bruschette (fresh tomatoes and pesto) on the house – very nice touch. We also received a homemade limoncello on the house after our meal. Total bill with a liter of water and a bottle of wine was 83 Euros.
<b>Helpful Links for Days 1 and 2</b>
ATVO bus (including timetables): www.atvo.it
Locando Orseolo:
Bacaro Jazz: http://www.bacarojazz.com/
Acqua Pazza review: http://www.restaurantsomh.com/v34.htm
The title of my report comes from the ridiculous amount of pumpkin/squash that I consumed in Venice. I managed to have pumpkin nearly every day (in a different form), and am going through some serious withdrawal.
<b>Days 1 and 2: From Here to There</b>
We purchased tickets early in the Spring on Air France for a grand total (including tax) of $453 between Washington Dulles and Venice Marco Polo. Definitely pays to buy early and take advantage of air fare sales!
Our 5:50 p.m. flight from Dulles was overbooked, and they were looking for volunteers to take the 10:10 p.m. flight instead. When we heard that they were offering a choice between $300 per person in Air France vouchers or $185 per person refund, we decided to take advantage of the offer. We opted for the refund (since we don’t actively wish to fly Air France…unless of course there’s another sale) and our $453 tickets were now $268 tickets. We also were put in the first row of economy which was an exit row. We requested the middle and aisle seats (since the window seat on an exit row usually has a bump-out), so we were pretty ecstatic with the unlimited leg room on our new flight. The bonus was that our row was next to the galley – not to the bathroom – so we did not have to deal with people waiting to use the bathroom and the flushing of toilets the whole flight.
We are living proof that you can make a 45 minute connection at CDG, though this is not the connection I would voluntarily pick (remember – we were rebooked when we volunteered to take a later flight). We arrived in 2E but were not parked at the gate, so they bussed us to terminal 2C. A woman near us also had a 45 minute connection, and the airline attendant told her that the quickest way from 2C to 2F (where our flights were departing) would be to walk. I told the woman that the quickest way would be by bus…and I’m pretty sure I was right. Since we bussed from 2E to 2C, we just got off the bus at 2C, went in the entrance, then made a u-turn and went out the exit for the busses to the other terminals in concourse 2. We waited about 1 minute for the bus. The biggest panic was arriving at 2C and having to clear immigration…and then also having to go through security again. When we got to our gate, they had just begun boarding, so we weren’t even the last people on the plane.
We took the blue ATVO bus from the airport to Piazzale Roma. Buy your tickets (3E each) from the machine outside, validate before you get on the bus, throw your luggage in the bottom of the bus, and off you go. It’s about 15 minutes from the airport to P. Roma.
We then took the vaporetto (5E each for 90 mins on the Grand Canal) to our Hotel. Yes, I know about the 24 hour vaporetto pass and the 72 hour pass, but we really don’t take the vaporetto except for our arrival and departure…we walk the rest of the time.
Speaking of our hotel….sigh…<b>Locanda Orseolo</b>. We stayed there last year, too, and I would never even consider staying somewhere else in Venice. Read the reviews on TripAdvisor, and you’ll still be completely shocked that this type of hotel exists. I had booked on January 1 for our trip, and was told that “our” room (Pulcinella, Room 15) was booked for the first 2 nights but that we could move to it on our 3rd night. Upon our arrival, Matteo gave us the kind of welcome you would get from your favorite cousin or your best friend and made us completely glow with happiness. The big surprise for us was that they had somehow made “our” room, Pulcinella, available for the entire duration of our stay. What a wonderful surprise – it was truly better than home.
Room 15 is on the first floor (really the second floor) of the Locanda. The room consists of a small hallway, a large bedroom, and a large bathroom with bidet, huge tub, and separate stall shower. The room has been completely redone in the last 2 years and is gorgeous – lots of red velvet, warm gold linens, and a theatrical mural on the wall. The room overlooks the Orseolo canal, and we were awakened every morning by the workmen (at about 5:00 a.m.) and then the gondoliers (at a more reasonable 7:30 a.m.). There are shutters that provide additional darkness and sound control for those who sleep light and are bothered by noise. There is a music system in the room that we would turn on (switch by the bed) whenever we were home. Oddly enough, every morning they played the same exact Sade cd…it was a bit like Groundhog Day.
We had pre-dinner drinks at <b>Bacaro Jazz</b> and dinner at <b>Acqua Pazza</b>. I love Acqua Pazza – one of my favorite restaurants in Venice. Pastas here are wonderful, as are the gargantuan (and expensive) pizzas. We had the fresh caprese salad made with fresh mozzarella, pasta shells stuffed with homemade ricotta cheese (YUM) and an eggplant pizza (melanzane pizza). We shared each plate, and no one gave us the stink eye for doing so. After we ordered, we were presented with an appetizer of bruschette (fresh tomatoes and pesto) on the house – very nice touch. We also received a homemade limoncello on the house after our meal. Total bill with a liter of water and a bottle of wine was 83 Euros.
<b>Helpful Links for Days 1 and 2</b>
ATVO bus (including timetables): www.atvo.it
Locando Orseolo:
Bacaro Jazz: http://www.bacarojazz.com/
Acqua Pazza review: http://www.restaurantsomh.com/v34.htm
Dec 3rd, 2005 | 02:01 PM
#2
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Link to Locanda Orseolo: www.locandaorseolo.com
(Note to Fodors: Once you preview and then edit, you're not saving changes when we post!)
(Note to Fodors: Once you preview and then edit, you're not saving changes when we post!)
Dec 3rd, 2005 | 02:30 PM
#4
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<b>Day 3: Get lost!</b>
We never have a set agenda or itinerary when we travel. This works particularly well in Venice where my favorite pastime is to wander and get lost. We got a VERY late start (noon) and therefore missed Matteo’s fabulous breakfast. We’re caffeine addicts, so we set out immediately for our favorite cappuccino at <b>Rosa Salva</b> (Campo S. Luca). If you haven’t had a cappuccino or pastry from Rosa Salva, you’re really missing a tasty cheap treasure! Our cappuccinos were each 1.30Euro. Although we didn’t have a pastry this time, I remember from last year that you can get 2 cappucini and 2 pastries (like tiramisu) for roughly 5Euro. Do not go to Rosa Salva if you are looking for a leisurely cup of joe – there is standing room only (no tables) and you’re expected to order, consume, and leave.
Sufficiently caffeinated, we set out for our favorite pizza spot for lunch – <b>Ai Sportivi</b> (Dorsoduro district at the southern end of the Campo Santa Margerita). Ai Sportivi has at least 50 different types of pizza (and no cover charge!), and this is where I had my first pumpkin encounter. My husband had a ricotta pizza and I had pizza alla zucca. Instead of tomato sauce, my pizza had pureed pumpkin. Fresh buffalo mozzarella was generously spread over the pizza. It arrived to the table so hot that the toppings were almost liquid. Drizzled some olive oil on top of it, and went in for the attack. With a liter of water and 2 draft beers, our total bill was 25Euro. I don’t think they take credit cards. I should also make brief mention of the toilets here…they are the dreaded short toilets with no seats. I don’t have arthritic knees, but if I did, this bathroom might do me in.
We meandered back to the hotel and chatted with Matteo. I could probably start a whole separate thread called “Afternoons with Matteo” because, seriously, our afternoon chats are some of my favorite memories of the trip. Today we talked about their business and success over the past year. They are doing much better than anticipated and are considering purchasing a palace on the Grand Canal as their second hotel. They are also thinking of purchasing a restaurant in Venice. And, if that weren’t enough, they love Tuscany so much that they’re thinking of opening a B&B there in 5 or 6 years. We selflessly volunteered to help them operate their Tuscan B&B should the opportunity arise…though I’m not sure I could ever be half as friendly and gracious as the staff at Orseolo is on a daily basis.
We had pre-dinner drinks at 2 of the 3 new wine bars on the market side of Rialto bridge. Drinks here were really inexpensive (1.50Euro to 2Euro for wine by the glass), and I felt like we were some of the only travelers there. For dinner, Matteo sent us to <b>Antico Dolo</b> (Rialto). I should have made a note earlier about my odd eating habits…I eat chicken, lobster, and vegetables (and vegetarian options are always my first choice), so Matteo always recommended places where I would have plenty of options. That means that I have never been to any of the infamous seafood restaurants in Venice. But I digress. Antico Dolo is entered via a very narrow hallway with tables set very close to each other. We made our way down the hall and were seated in the “main” dining room which barely holds 4 tables. Service was friendly and we were proud to order in our pathetic broken Italian, and they seemed humored by us. It was a small victory that they continued to speak to us in Italian even though they knew we were American and they were speaking English to the Americans seated next to us. Hurrah!
My antipasto was a plate of 5 Italian cheeses…though I have no idea what they were. They were served with a fig jam that was wonderful. My husband had Salame with polenta and enjoyed it, though not as much as the salame he had in Tuscany in 2003. My primi was pumpkin encounter #2: gnocchi alla zucca in a sage and butter sauce. Hubby dined on egg noodles with vegetables. A nice Valpolicella wine accompanied our eats. Dessert was cappuccino (yes, I know real Italians don’t follow their meal with cappuccino, but who cares – I am not a real Italian) and tiramisu. Total bill was 110Euro. Do you have small children? Then beware of the extremely bizarre (and large) framed art in the main dining room. There are 3 pictures of cartoon women enjoying each other (if you know what I mean). I wouldn’t want to have to explain girl-on-girl cartoon sex to my child whilst trying to enjoy my plate of fine Italian cheese.
<b>Helpful Link to Day 3</b>
Antico Dolo: www.anticodolo.it
We never have a set agenda or itinerary when we travel. This works particularly well in Venice where my favorite pastime is to wander and get lost. We got a VERY late start (noon) and therefore missed Matteo’s fabulous breakfast. We’re caffeine addicts, so we set out immediately for our favorite cappuccino at <b>Rosa Salva</b> (Campo S. Luca). If you haven’t had a cappuccino or pastry from Rosa Salva, you’re really missing a tasty cheap treasure! Our cappuccinos were each 1.30Euro. Although we didn’t have a pastry this time, I remember from last year that you can get 2 cappucini and 2 pastries (like tiramisu) for roughly 5Euro. Do not go to Rosa Salva if you are looking for a leisurely cup of joe – there is standing room only (no tables) and you’re expected to order, consume, and leave.
Sufficiently caffeinated, we set out for our favorite pizza spot for lunch – <b>Ai Sportivi</b> (Dorsoduro district at the southern end of the Campo Santa Margerita). Ai Sportivi has at least 50 different types of pizza (and no cover charge!), and this is where I had my first pumpkin encounter. My husband had a ricotta pizza and I had pizza alla zucca. Instead of tomato sauce, my pizza had pureed pumpkin. Fresh buffalo mozzarella was generously spread over the pizza. It arrived to the table so hot that the toppings were almost liquid. Drizzled some olive oil on top of it, and went in for the attack. With a liter of water and 2 draft beers, our total bill was 25Euro. I don’t think they take credit cards. I should also make brief mention of the toilets here…they are the dreaded short toilets with no seats. I don’t have arthritic knees, but if I did, this bathroom might do me in.
We meandered back to the hotel and chatted with Matteo. I could probably start a whole separate thread called “Afternoons with Matteo” because, seriously, our afternoon chats are some of my favorite memories of the trip. Today we talked about their business and success over the past year. They are doing much better than anticipated and are considering purchasing a palace on the Grand Canal as their second hotel. They are also thinking of purchasing a restaurant in Venice. And, if that weren’t enough, they love Tuscany so much that they’re thinking of opening a B&B there in 5 or 6 years. We selflessly volunteered to help them operate their Tuscan B&B should the opportunity arise…though I’m not sure I could ever be half as friendly and gracious as the staff at Orseolo is on a daily basis.
We had pre-dinner drinks at 2 of the 3 new wine bars on the market side of Rialto bridge. Drinks here were really inexpensive (1.50Euro to 2Euro for wine by the glass), and I felt like we were some of the only travelers there. For dinner, Matteo sent us to <b>Antico Dolo</b> (Rialto). I should have made a note earlier about my odd eating habits…I eat chicken, lobster, and vegetables (and vegetarian options are always my first choice), so Matteo always recommended places where I would have plenty of options. That means that I have never been to any of the infamous seafood restaurants in Venice. But I digress. Antico Dolo is entered via a very narrow hallway with tables set very close to each other. We made our way down the hall and were seated in the “main” dining room which barely holds 4 tables. Service was friendly and we were proud to order in our pathetic broken Italian, and they seemed humored by us. It was a small victory that they continued to speak to us in Italian even though they knew we were American and they were speaking English to the Americans seated next to us. Hurrah!
My antipasto was a plate of 5 Italian cheeses…though I have no idea what they were. They were served with a fig jam that was wonderful. My husband had Salame with polenta and enjoyed it, though not as much as the salame he had in Tuscany in 2003. My primi was pumpkin encounter #2: gnocchi alla zucca in a sage and butter sauce. Hubby dined on egg noodles with vegetables. A nice Valpolicella wine accompanied our eats. Dessert was cappuccino (yes, I know real Italians don’t follow their meal with cappuccino, but who cares – I am not a real Italian) and tiramisu. Total bill was 110Euro. Do you have small children? Then beware of the extremely bizarre (and large) framed art in the main dining room. There are 3 pictures of cartoon women enjoying each other (if you know what I mean). I wouldn’t want to have to explain girl-on-girl cartoon sex to my child whilst trying to enjoy my plate of fine Italian cheese.
<b>Helpful Link to Day 3</b>
Antico Dolo: www.anticodolo.it
Dec 3rd, 2005 | 06:09 PM
#5
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 641
Likes: 0
beanweb24,
I am enjoying your wonderful trip report.
We were at the Locando Orseolo the same time as you, and were equally enchanted with the hosts.
Our dinner at Atico Dolo was similarly
outstanding, and given the high quality of the food, a bargain at 150 EUR for four people (including a liter of house wine).
Woody
I am enjoying your wonderful trip report.
We were at the Locando Orseolo the same time as you, and were equally enchanted with the hosts.
Our dinner at Atico Dolo was similarly
outstanding, and given the high quality of the food, a bargain at 150 EUR for four people (including a liter of house wine).
Woody
Dec 3rd, 2005 | 08:26 PM
#6
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 0
Oh my goodness, am I ever glad that I changed our plans from Florence to Venice. Your trip sounds wonderful. I am having serious regrets about not booking the Orseola. I emailed them and got a lovely reply but they were more than we wanted to spend. I'm all over the pumpkin/squash so I hope it is available in June!
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Dec 4th, 2005 | 07:40 AM
#9
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 922
Likes: 0
What a great report!!
I was in Venice the first half of November.....also had many La Zucca encounters. Two of them were at the restaurant La Zucca'!!
The next time you are in Venezia check out this great restaurant...try la zucca flan.....YES it is served year round, not just in autumn!!
IT IS DIVINE!
Thanks for taking the time to post your lovely report!
I was in Venice the first half of November.....also had many La Zucca encounters. Two of them were at the restaurant La Zucca'!!
The next time you are in Venezia check out this great restaurant...try la zucca flan.....YES it is served year round, not just in autumn!!
IT IS DIVINE!
Thanks for taking the time to post your lovely report!
Dec 4th, 2005 | 09:28 AM
#13
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<b>Day 4: A Daytrip to Verona</b>
Day 4 fell on November 21, the <b>Festa della Salute</b> at the Santa Maria della Salute church. As there is in each year, a giant (temporary) pontoon bridge spans across the Grand Canal from St Mark’s square. The festival commemorates the end of the plague in October 1630. We were in Venice during the Festival last year and did spend some time walking near the church and enjoying the festival market that was nearby. This year, though, we opted to leave Venice for the day for a daytrip to Verona.
We purchased our same-day tickets at the train station. Round trip, first class tickets were approximately 50Euro for both of us. We took an express train which only stops once in Verona (the regional trains make 2 Verona stops). The center of Verona is about a 15minute walk from the train station. We really hit it right with the weather for this daytrip – no wind and lots of glorious sun. Massive stone arches provide a grand entrance to the historical center and Piazza Bra area…it is gorgeous. We arrived in Verona at lunchtime and set out to find the restaurant that Francesco at Orseolo recommended, <b>Al Bersagliere</b>. Francesco had us hooked by his description – wonderful food with a fantastic wine list for a long lunch. Sold! We originally were going to dine at Al Bottega del Vino, but when I asked Matteo if he had ever been, he said “Years ago. And you do not have to go to the most expensive restaurant to get the best food.” I took this as a hint.
Al Bersagliere was a bit difficult to find. It is located on Via dietro Pallone, 1, which is different than the other Pallone street. We had to use the Verona city map provided in Piazza Bra to find it, but it was worth the hunt. Our lunch was fantastic. My antipasto was a grilled polenta with hunks of melted Italian cheese (Taleggio?) and hubby had grilled polenta with Salame (4.50Euro each). For our main, we shared an Amarone Risotto (6.50 per person) that was absolutely heavenly (and purple). Our food was paired perfectly with a Nicolis Amarone 2000. Total, including espresso for hubby, was 58Euro. I highly recommend this restaurant if you have the pleasure to spend some time in Verona.
After lunch, we bought tickets to the Arena. We spent probably an hour walking around the arena and enjoying the view from the top. I have been to Rome, but hubby has not…so he was very excited to get a chance to experience a “real” Roman amphitheater. There was some construction going on, but it did not hamper our enjoyment.
After a long lunch and a visit to the Arena, we didn’t have much more time to explore Verona. I would have liked to have seen Romeo and Juliet’s balcony, no matter how fake it is, but hubby didn’t want anything to do with it. Lucky for me, though, he was interested in shopping. Verona has a fantastic pedestrian mall, and we spent the next hour trying on (and buying) some funky clothes.
Speaking of fashion…the night before we left, I told my husband that I was considering bringing my black leather knee-high boots to wear with my cropped pants and a funky skirt while on our trip. He gave me the old “are you sure that’s the most practical thing to bring along on the trip” lecture, and I begrudgingly left my fun clothes at home. Well. About halfway across the Atlantic, hubby turns to me and says, “Guess what? I had enough room in my luggage to pack my black velvet blazer! I thought it might be fun to wear.” Seethe. Hate. It gets worse – nearly 75% of the female Venetian population was wearing knee-high boots, cropped pants, and skirts. So I spent the week reminding him how I followed his advice…and I managed to soothe my spirits by buying a few funky skirts and a new pair of knee-high boots.
Funny train story…on the way to Venice from Verona, a gentleman came to our car and said, “Is the next stop Venice?” I explained to him that we have another hour or so. I then chatted with them for a while to find that he and his partner (from San Francisco) were spending one night in Venice before going to Umbria for Thanksgiving with his whole family. (Note for next year) He had no idea where his hotel is located, and he did not have a map, so I did my best to find it on the map we have with us. He asked where we were going upon our arrival in Venice, and I said we had dinner reservations that we were walking to. His reaction was beautiful: “You’re walking to dinner? I thought Venice was full of canals!” Too funny. Yes, it is full of canals, but there are sidewalks too.
We made our way to our other favorite restaurant in Venice, <b>La Zucca</b>. This is vegetarian paradise, though there is plenty on the menu to keep you meat-eaters happy, too. The menu changes daily, though there are some items that are always on the menu. Service here is very friendly, which makes up for the fact that it’s a little difficult to find and not really near anything of great excitement. The restaurant is situated on a canal which must make for wonderful (al fresco?) dining in the summer, and the interior is very cozy. Racks of wine bottles line the walls inside the main dining room, so don’t be surprised if, after you order your wine, your server reaches behind you and produces your bottle.
For dinner, I started with the soup of leeks and pumpkin. I could have had a second bowl for my main entrée, it was just that good. Hubby started with Trentetto con pomodoro e ricotta fresca (long thin noodles with tomatoes and fresh ricotta), which was every bit as good as my soup and probably the best pasta dish I have ever eaten. Our mains were a turkey curry and the lasagna of the day which turned out to be a creamy lasagna of pecorino, artichokes, and mushroom. Fabulous, fabulous, fabulous. Our wine was a Schioppettino, and apparently our server had a quite animated story about the wine (gets its name from the way the grapes burst) that I managed to miss while washing my hands. Our dessert was a pana cotta, which was also excellent, though I would also recommend the chocolate mousse (from memory last year). Our bill was 82.50Euro.
We arrived back at Orseolo around 9:15 to a somewhat surprised Matteo and Barbara, “Did you eat? It is so early!” Ah, yes, but we were so tired. But we were also sufficiently guilted into going back out to enjoy Venice a little bit longer. We had mojitos and white Russians at a wine bar whose name escapes me (next to the bookstore?) and then went to <b>Centrale Lounge</b> for a comparative mojito study (educational purposes only, of course).
Centrale Lounge won on both the mojito (splash of dark rum made the difference) as well as the interior. Centrale has both a bar and a restaurant, and it is one of those places that you feel too tragically un-hip to be allowed into. It reminded me more of Vegas and Miami than of anything Venetian I had experienced, but it was great. Very dark and romantic inside with very comfortable leather loungers that promote hours of reminiscing (oh forget it…we were people watching). Centrale also gets the “coolest bathroom” award for Venice. You have to experience it in person.
<b>Helpful links for Day 4</b>
Al Bersagliere: www.trattoriaalbersagliere.it
La Zucca: www.lazucca.it
Centrale Lounge: http://www.centrale-lounge.com/
Day 4 fell on November 21, the <b>Festa della Salute</b> at the Santa Maria della Salute church. As there is in each year, a giant (temporary) pontoon bridge spans across the Grand Canal from St Mark’s square. The festival commemorates the end of the plague in October 1630. We were in Venice during the Festival last year and did spend some time walking near the church and enjoying the festival market that was nearby. This year, though, we opted to leave Venice for the day for a daytrip to Verona.
We purchased our same-day tickets at the train station. Round trip, first class tickets were approximately 50Euro for both of us. We took an express train which only stops once in Verona (the regional trains make 2 Verona stops). The center of Verona is about a 15minute walk from the train station. We really hit it right with the weather for this daytrip – no wind and lots of glorious sun. Massive stone arches provide a grand entrance to the historical center and Piazza Bra area…it is gorgeous. We arrived in Verona at lunchtime and set out to find the restaurant that Francesco at Orseolo recommended, <b>Al Bersagliere</b>. Francesco had us hooked by his description – wonderful food with a fantastic wine list for a long lunch. Sold! We originally were going to dine at Al Bottega del Vino, but when I asked Matteo if he had ever been, he said “Years ago. And you do not have to go to the most expensive restaurant to get the best food.” I took this as a hint.
Al Bersagliere was a bit difficult to find. It is located on Via dietro Pallone, 1, which is different than the other Pallone street. We had to use the Verona city map provided in Piazza Bra to find it, but it was worth the hunt. Our lunch was fantastic. My antipasto was a grilled polenta with hunks of melted Italian cheese (Taleggio?) and hubby had grilled polenta with Salame (4.50Euro each). For our main, we shared an Amarone Risotto (6.50 per person) that was absolutely heavenly (and purple). Our food was paired perfectly with a Nicolis Amarone 2000. Total, including espresso for hubby, was 58Euro. I highly recommend this restaurant if you have the pleasure to spend some time in Verona.
After lunch, we bought tickets to the Arena. We spent probably an hour walking around the arena and enjoying the view from the top. I have been to Rome, but hubby has not…so he was very excited to get a chance to experience a “real” Roman amphitheater. There was some construction going on, but it did not hamper our enjoyment.
After a long lunch and a visit to the Arena, we didn’t have much more time to explore Verona. I would have liked to have seen Romeo and Juliet’s balcony, no matter how fake it is, but hubby didn’t want anything to do with it. Lucky for me, though, he was interested in shopping. Verona has a fantastic pedestrian mall, and we spent the next hour trying on (and buying) some funky clothes.
Speaking of fashion…the night before we left, I told my husband that I was considering bringing my black leather knee-high boots to wear with my cropped pants and a funky skirt while on our trip. He gave me the old “are you sure that’s the most practical thing to bring along on the trip” lecture, and I begrudgingly left my fun clothes at home. Well. About halfway across the Atlantic, hubby turns to me and says, “Guess what? I had enough room in my luggage to pack my black velvet blazer! I thought it might be fun to wear.” Seethe. Hate. It gets worse – nearly 75% of the female Venetian population was wearing knee-high boots, cropped pants, and skirts. So I spent the week reminding him how I followed his advice…and I managed to soothe my spirits by buying a few funky skirts and a new pair of knee-high boots.
Funny train story…on the way to Venice from Verona, a gentleman came to our car and said, “Is the next stop Venice?” I explained to him that we have another hour or so. I then chatted with them for a while to find that he and his partner (from San Francisco) were spending one night in Venice before going to Umbria for Thanksgiving with his whole family. (Note for next year) He had no idea where his hotel is located, and he did not have a map, so I did my best to find it on the map we have with us. He asked where we were going upon our arrival in Venice, and I said we had dinner reservations that we were walking to. His reaction was beautiful: “You’re walking to dinner? I thought Venice was full of canals!” Too funny. Yes, it is full of canals, but there are sidewalks too.
We made our way to our other favorite restaurant in Venice, <b>La Zucca</b>. This is vegetarian paradise, though there is plenty on the menu to keep you meat-eaters happy, too. The menu changes daily, though there are some items that are always on the menu. Service here is very friendly, which makes up for the fact that it’s a little difficult to find and not really near anything of great excitement. The restaurant is situated on a canal which must make for wonderful (al fresco?) dining in the summer, and the interior is very cozy. Racks of wine bottles line the walls inside the main dining room, so don’t be surprised if, after you order your wine, your server reaches behind you and produces your bottle.
For dinner, I started with the soup of leeks and pumpkin. I could have had a second bowl for my main entrée, it was just that good. Hubby started with Trentetto con pomodoro e ricotta fresca (long thin noodles with tomatoes and fresh ricotta), which was every bit as good as my soup and probably the best pasta dish I have ever eaten. Our mains were a turkey curry and the lasagna of the day which turned out to be a creamy lasagna of pecorino, artichokes, and mushroom. Fabulous, fabulous, fabulous. Our wine was a Schioppettino, and apparently our server had a quite animated story about the wine (gets its name from the way the grapes burst) that I managed to miss while washing my hands. Our dessert was a pana cotta, which was also excellent, though I would also recommend the chocolate mousse (from memory last year). Our bill was 82.50Euro.
We arrived back at Orseolo around 9:15 to a somewhat surprised Matteo and Barbara, “Did you eat? It is so early!” Ah, yes, but we were so tired. But we were also sufficiently guilted into going back out to enjoy Venice a little bit longer. We had mojitos and white Russians at a wine bar whose name escapes me (next to the bookstore?) and then went to <b>Centrale Lounge</b> for a comparative mojito study (educational purposes only, of course).
Centrale Lounge won on both the mojito (splash of dark rum made the difference) as well as the interior. Centrale has both a bar and a restaurant, and it is one of those places that you feel too tragically un-hip to be allowed into. It reminded me more of Vegas and Miami than of anything Venetian I had experienced, but it was great. Very dark and romantic inside with very comfortable leather loungers that promote hours of reminiscing (oh forget it…we were people watching). Centrale also gets the “coolest bathroom” award for Venice. You have to experience it in person.
<b>Helpful links for Day 4</b>
Al Bersagliere: www.trattoriaalbersagliere.it
La Zucca: www.lazucca.it
Centrale Lounge: http://www.centrale-lounge.com/
Dec 4th, 2005 | 10:10 AM
#15
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
thanks so much for posting this report. my husband and i are considering a last-minute weekend trip to venice this weekend. i've sent an email to the locanda orseolo hotel and am waiting with bated breath for their response! looks--and sounds--like a special place!!
Dec 4th, 2005 | 12:18 PM
#16
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,009
Likes: 0
<b>Day 5: Brahms at La Fenice</b>
Another day, another glorious chocolate crepe and vegetable omelet. Breakfast at Orseolo is very hearty, and very delicious. In addition to a breakfast buffet offering fresh croissants, rolls, cheese, meat, cereals, yogurt, and juices, Matteo makes the best made-to-order crepes and eggs you could ever desire. Barbara is also very conscious of their guests’ caffeine levels and will make you a second cappuccino is you look sufficiently glassy-eyed.
We decided to go to the <b>Accademia</b> galleries today. About 10 minutes into the museum, I was already looking for the exit. You see, we are not “museum people” despite my best attempts at the Uffizi, Louvre, Prado, and here at home in DC. The highlight at the Uffizi in Florence was discovering a painting that looked like it had Prince (Purple Rain, The Artist, however you want to refer to him) in it. I am hopelessly uncultured in the ways of art. I will say, though, that our art experience last year was wonderful – we caught the Salvador Dali exhibit during last year’s trip to Venice, and that was one of my favorite museum experiences of all time. My other favorite museum exhibits always focus on Egyptian collections, natural history, archaeology, or medical sciences. So I tried my best at the Accademia, but failed to appreciate it the way that I probably should (and that most probably would). I have not completely given up on my quest for a museum that doesn’t make me yawn, though…next time we are in Venice (and there will be a next time), we will go to the Guggenheim. Besides, I hear there’s a nice gift shop there.
We really wanted to go to <b>Antica Birraria La Corte</b> for lunch (Campo San Polo 2168) after hearing it described as a serious and imaginative pizzeria in what (I believe) used to be some sort of brewery, but it was closed. We started wandering aimlessly (mental note: always have a backup in Venice) and luckily stumbled upon another place we wanted to try, <b>Osteria alla Patatina</b> (Ponte S Polo, S Polo 2741).
This place was packed and for good reason – really good, and fairly inexpensive. They have a very generous selection of cicchetti, but we grabbed a table for a sit-down lunch. We shared a plate of pattate fritte (fancy way to say French fries…only these were more like oven roasted potato wedges) which were quite tasty. For our mains, I had homemade pappardelle with porcini mushrooms (when in doubt, always order “homemade”), and hubby had gnocchi with 4 cheeses. I think I enjoyed my pasta more than he enjoyed his gnocchi. With a glass of Bardolino and a glass of Valpolicella, our total bill was 34Euro.
I bought John Berendt’s City of Falling Angel’s during our 5-hour delay at Dulles, which really sparked (no pun intended) my interest in seeing <b>La Fenice</b>. A sign out front indicated that there was a violin concert that evening featuring the music of Johannes Brahms. One of our highlights from last year’s trip was seeing a Vivaldi concert performed, so we figured we’d have another musical experience. We were really in luck – there was a wide selection of tickets available for the performance that evening. Every ticket – no matter what seat you chose – was 30Euro, so we selected box seats (in box 24). We noticed no one else had selected Box 24, so we were hoping to have the box to ourselves. We also noticed that there were daily tours available at La Fenice, and it appeared that there are daily tours of the Opera House in several different languages. We decided to save the tour for our next visit as well.
Today was our first nap since we would have a late night (concert at 8:30 p.m. followed by dinner afterwards). After a refreshing snooze, we cleaned ourselves up and headed out for a snack before the performance. We stopped in at <b>Moscacieka</b> (Calle dei Fabbri, 4717 San Marco) for bruschetta and Belgian beer (Leffe Blonde). Now, the bruschetta here are certainly not of gourmet quality, but they were tasty enough. Bruschetta average around 4.50Euro each, and we shared two: one with ricotta and speck, and the other (my favorite) with mozzarella, tomato, green olive, and artichoke.
We got to La Fenice around 8:15 for the 8:30 concert. There is a coat check downstairs, but we decided to take our coats with us since we had box seats – right choice since the box did have coat hooks available. We were shown to our box by an usher, and were thrilled when we were seated – the interior of La Fenice is over-the-top decadent. John Berendt says in his book that, during performances, the interior lights are dimmed – not turned off completely – so that theater-goers can still enjoy the interior of the theater. There is so much to look at inside that it was hard to focus on the violinists – which was fine, because they provided beautiful background music for my gawking. We had the box to ourselves which was a really fun experience. I would definitely not want to be in a box if I had to sit in the second row of seats, as the view would be completely obstructed by the couple sitting in front of you. But alone in the box, we felt a bit like royalty and immensely enjoyed the whole concert experience. We also felt like the only tourists there – most of the audience seemed to be comprised of older Italians. All in all, it was a great way to spend an evening.
Barbara at Orseolo recommend <b>Le Bistrot de Venise</b> for our late meal (and she made reservations while we enjoyed our afternoon nap). Le Bistrot wins the award for our most expensive meal of our visit, but it was probably also the most creative and delicious. The menu features several recipes from the 15th century, barely (if at all) altered for today’s tastes. My heart sunk a bit when I realized that the only thing on the meal that was friendly to my picky eating was the chicken soup, but I did have my eye on a ravioli alla zucca that had a sauce made of wild boar. I asked the server if it would be possible to have the ravioli without the boar, and he asked me to wait a moment while he checked with the chef. Good news – the chef was happy to honor my request, and the wild boar sauce was substituted with a rosemary and butter sauce. I was a little disappointed in the quantity when I received it, as the dish contained exactly 4 ravioli, and that was to be my main entrée. BUT – this was the perfect excuse for having my own dessert. My hubby dined on veal cheek which won the award for the most creative presentation…it was served in (and cooked with) a red apple. We enjoyed a Bardolino with our food and thought it interesting that our bottle was no. 220 of only 7,000 bottles made. If you are ever in the neighborhood for dessert, please stop in Le Bistrot and see if there is a table available. I had a 14th century recipe of ricotta-filled beignets that were accompanied by a sauce made of balsamic vinegar, chocolate, and something else that escapes my memory…this was my favorite dessert of the whole trip. My dessert was enhanced beautifully by a Moscato Rosa dessert wine. My hubby enjoyed his rich chestnut flour soufflé with raspberries, and enjoyed a different dessert wine (a Romaland?). Total bill, including espresso, was 144Euro.
I have to say that the service at Le Bistrot was either really bad or really good, depending on who was tending to us. There was a young female server who was not very graceful, and even managed to break off our wine cork and get some cork bits in the bottle. When we arrived at the restaurant, she waved her hand and told us to sit at any open table. Her polar opposite was the gentleman server who seemed appalled by her greeting and responded with a, “You’re from Orseolo? Please, let me show you to this very romantic table.” He was the same person who accommodated my recipe adjustment, and he was wonderful throughout the whole meal – service was truly an art for him.
<b>Helpful Links for Day 5</b>
Accademia Gallery: http://www.gallerieaccademia.org/
Teatro La Fenice: www.teatrolafenice.it
Le Bistrot de Venise: www.bistrotdevenise.com
Another day, another glorious chocolate crepe and vegetable omelet. Breakfast at Orseolo is very hearty, and very delicious. In addition to a breakfast buffet offering fresh croissants, rolls, cheese, meat, cereals, yogurt, and juices, Matteo makes the best made-to-order crepes and eggs you could ever desire. Barbara is also very conscious of their guests’ caffeine levels and will make you a second cappuccino is you look sufficiently glassy-eyed.
We decided to go to the <b>Accademia</b> galleries today. About 10 minutes into the museum, I was already looking for the exit. You see, we are not “museum people” despite my best attempts at the Uffizi, Louvre, Prado, and here at home in DC. The highlight at the Uffizi in Florence was discovering a painting that looked like it had Prince (Purple Rain, The Artist, however you want to refer to him) in it. I am hopelessly uncultured in the ways of art. I will say, though, that our art experience last year was wonderful – we caught the Salvador Dali exhibit during last year’s trip to Venice, and that was one of my favorite museum experiences of all time. My other favorite museum exhibits always focus on Egyptian collections, natural history, archaeology, or medical sciences. So I tried my best at the Accademia, but failed to appreciate it the way that I probably should (and that most probably would). I have not completely given up on my quest for a museum that doesn’t make me yawn, though…next time we are in Venice (and there will be a next time), we will go to the Guggenheim. Besides, I hear there’s a nice gift shop there.
We really wanted to go to <b>Antica Birraria La Corte</b> for lunch (Campo San Polo 2168) after hearing it described as a serious and imaginative pizzeria in what (I believe) used to be some sort of brewery, but it was closed. We started wandering aimlessly (mental note: always have a backup in Venice) and luckily stumbled upon another place we wanted to try, <b>Osteria alla Patatina</b> (Ponte S Polo, S Polo 2741).
This place was packed and for good reason – really good, and fairly inexpensive. They have a very generous selection of cicchetti, but we grabbed a table for a sit-down lunch. We shared a plate of pattate fritte (fancy way to say French fries…only these were more like oven roasted potato wedges) which were quite tasty. For our mains, I had homemade pappardelle with porcini mushrooms (when in doubt, always order “homemade”), and hubby had gnocchi with 4 cheeses. I think I enjoyed my pasta more than he enjoyed his gnocchi. With a glass of Bardolino and a glass of Valpolicella, our total bill was 34Euro.
I bought John Berendt’s City of Falling Angel’s during our 5-hour delay at Dulles, which really sparked (no pun intended) my interest in seeing <b>La Fenice</b>. A sign out front indicated that there was a violin concert that evening featuring the music of Johannes Brahms. One of our highlights from last year’s trip was seeing a Vivaldi concert performed, so we figured we’d have another musical experience. We were really in luck – there was a wide selection of tickets available for the performance that evening. Every ticket – no matter what seat you chose – was 30Euro, so we selected box seats (in box 24). We noticed no one else had selected Box 24, so we were hoping to have the box to ourselves. We also noticed that there were daily tours available at La Fenice, and it appeared that there are daily tours of the Opera House in several different languages. We decided to save the tour for our next visit as well.
Today was our first nap since we would have a late night (concert at 8:30 p.m. followed by dinner afterwards). After a refreshing snooze, we cleaned ourselves up and headed out for a snack before the performance. We stopped in at <b>Moscacieka</b> (Calle dei Fabbri, 4717 San Marco) for bruschetta and Belgian beer (Leffe Blonde). Now, the bruschetta here are certainly not of gourmet quality, but they were tasty enough. Bruschetta average around 4.50Euro each, and we shared two: one with ricotta and speck, and the other (my favorite) with mozzarella, tomato, green olive, and artichoke.
We got to La Fenice around 8:15 for the 8:30 concert. There is a coat check downstairs, but we decided to take our coats with us since we had box seats – right choice since the box did have coat hooks available. We were shown to our box by an usher, and were thrilled when we were seated – the interior of La Fenice is over-the-top decadent. John Berendt says in his book that, during performances, the interior lights are dimmed – not turned off completely – so that theater-goers can still enjoy the interior of the theater. There is so much to look at inside that it was hard to focus on the violinists – which was fine, because they provided beautiful background music for my gawking. We had the box to ourselves which was a really fun experience. I would definitely not want to be in a box if I had to sit in the second row of seats, as the view would be completely obstructed by the couple sitting in front of you. But alone in the box, we felt a bit like royalty and immensely enjoyed the whole concert experience. We also felt like the only tourists there – most of the audience seemed to be comprised of older Italians. All in all, it was a great way to spend an evening.
Barbara at Orseolo recommend <b>Le Bistrot de Venise</b> for our late meal (and she made reservations while we enjoyed our afternoon nap). Le Bistrot wins the award for our most expensive meal of our visit, but it was probably also the most creative and delicious. The menu features several recipes from the 15th century, barely (if at all) altered for today’s tastes. My heart sunk a bit when I realized that the only thing on the meal that was friendly to my picky eating was the chicken soup, but I did have my eye on a ravioli alla zucca that had a sauce made of wild boar. I asked the server if it would be possible to have the ravioli without the boar, and he asked me to wait a moment while he checked with the chef. Good news – the chef was happy to honor my request, and the wild boar sauce was substituted with a rosemary and butter sauce. I was a little disappointed in the quantity when I received it, as the dish contained exactly 4 ravioli, and that was to be my main entrée. BUT – this was the perfect excuse for having my own dessert. My hubby dined on veal cheek which won the award for the most creative presentation…it was served in (and cooked with) a red apple. We enjoyed a Bardolino with our food and thought it interesting that our bottle was no. 220 of only 7,000 bottles made. If you are ever in the neighborhood for dessert, please stop in Le Bistrot and see if there is a table available. I had a 14th century recipe of ricotta-filled beignets that were accompanied by a sauce made of balsamic vinegar, chocolate, and something else that escapes my memory…this was my favorite dessert of the whole trip. My dessert was enhanced beautifully by a Moscato Rosa dessert wine. My hubby enjoyed his rich chestnut flour soufflé with raspberries, and enjoyed a different dessert wine (a Romaland?). Total bill, including espresso, was 144Euro.
I have to say that the service at Le Bistrot was either really bad or really good, depending on who was tending to us. There was a young female server who was not very graceful, and even managed to break off our wine cork and get some cork bits in the bottle. When we arrived at the restaurant, she waved her hand and told us to sit at any open table. Her polar opposite was the gentleman server who seemed appalled by her greeting and responded with a, “You’re from Orseolo? Please, let me show you to this very romantic table.” He was the same person who accommodated my recipe adjustment, and he was wonderful throughout the whole meal – service was truly an art for him.
<b>Helpful Links for Day 5</b>
Accademia Gallery: http://www.gallerieaccademia.org/
Teatro La Fenice: www.teatrolafenice.it
Le Bistrot de Venise: www.bistrotdevenise.com
Dec 4th, 2005 | 12:43 PM
#17
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 14,748
Likes: 0
I am really enjoying your report and have to compliment you on your writing style. I love to read about travel specifics, and your descriptions are wonderful. I really like the food recs. I am clipping them for our March trip which will end with 4 days in Venice. Thanks!
Debbie
Debbie
Dec 4th, 2005 | 01:47 PM
#19
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,130
Likes: 0
Enjoying your report, beanweb. We were in Venice the last week of October and I'm still trying to get my report done, too. You can't count DH and I as two more fans of La Zucca.
Glad you got City of Falling Angels while you were there. I couldn't get it until I returned home and now wish I'd had the chance to read it before the trip.
You can't count DH and I as two more fans of La Zucca.Glad you got City of Falling Angels while you were there. I couldn't get it until I returned home and now wish I'd had the chance to read it before the trip.
