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Val d'Orcia 2 bed apt or farm bnb w/view, within walking distance to town

Val d'Orcia 2 bed apt or farm bnb w/view, within walking distance to town

Mar 7th, 2009, 05:52 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 783
Val d'Orcia 2 bed apt or farm bnb w/view, within walking distance to town

We are traveling with another couple - they've never been outside the US - and I would love them to experience different types of accommodations on this trip - we'll also be in Rome and the Amalfi Coast. Having a Tuscan accommodation in the country with a great view sounds wonderful, however the other part of me wants to be able to walk into town for dinner or just to take a stroll. I'm trying to compromise and find an accommodation which offers both. And they must accept nightly stays (at this time it's 4 nights) since we'll be splitting our time between the Val d'Orcia area and Orvieto. And before you say you can day trip to Orvieto from the Val d'Orcia....yes, I'm aware of that, however you cannot see Orvieto, take their underground tour and visit Civita and Pitiligano all in one day (well...maybe Maitaitom could) so why make two trips to the same area? Or can we do it in one?

Something else to consider is traveling in late September/mid October it will be dark earlier so if we have dinner in another town till we get back it will be too late to have a drink and enjoy the view anyway. If we have an apartment and cook in for a night or two then we'd be able to take advantage of it. I'm so torn with this decision it's driving me nuts.

As much as I would like to be able to walk to dinner I would also like to experience restaurants in different towns....do you see why I can't make this decision? For those who rent apartments...do you have dinner in different towns or where your apartment is?
I would love to stay in Pienza or San Quirico, but I also want to have dinner at Grappolo Blu in Montalcino. Or forget dinner and do lunch instead?

My ideal: a quiet countryside place (2 bed/2 bath apt or rooms) with charm (love old beams, stone walls, brick arches, etc), great view, within walking distance to town and a short drive to one or two other towns for dinner.

If anyone can help prevent me from going crazy I am in your debt! Thank you.
travelfan1 is offline  
Mar 7th, 2009, 06:16 AM
Join Date: Nov 2004
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We visited both the Val D'Orcia area and Orvieto last fall. I am glad you are not giving short shrift to Orvieto because we loved it and feel it is worth a couple of days, at least. We were there about a day and a half and could have gone for more. We traveled to Civita di Bagnoregio (delightful) on our way to Montepulciano, our other base.

We very much enjoyed staying in a town as opposed to the countryside. One of us could venture out for an early morning walk without disturbing the others. It was fun to revisit the grocer for extra breakfast supplies; the shopkeepers start to recognize you.

It was not difficult to drive out of Montepulciano, although others Fodorites say that some of the other towns are easier, and this may be true. We enjoyed nice lunches in the other towns and came back to Montepulciano for dinner in the evenings--there are enough good restaurants to choose from.

We stayed at Politian Apartment One, which we loved for the awesome view, conveniences (computer and cell available) and charm. http://www.politian.com/ They have a two bedroom, although one of the rooms looks like twins. We were able to rent for 4 nights.

As I said, we loved Montepulciano and Politian. The other towns also have their advocates, and I think you would not be disappointed in any (Pienza, Montalcino, etc.). And they are all pleasant drives from one to the other--can't go wrong.
mama_mia is offline  
Mar 7th, 2009, 06:35 AM
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Have you seen this one?
bobthenavigator is offline  
Mar 7th, 2009, 08:20 AM
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mama mia - I thought I was set on Politian #2 - heard great comments, good price and love the computer, downside is it's only 1 bath which had me searching again. I may end up there anyway and for only 4 nights I can handle sharing a bathroom. I know there isn't on site parking...how did you find that to be and how is the access getting in and out?

Bob - thanks.
travelfan1 is offline  
Mar 7th, 2009, 09:00 AM
Join Date: Feb 2005
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Poggiolo looks amazing and great prices too. BTW I googled it and it is 1.1 km out of town. Not a long walk (about 5 minutes). That would seem to combine your preferences of being in the countryside but near town. Pienza and San Quirico are some of the best of Val D'orcia. I think this is a perfect choice given your preferences. We stayed in a Villa outside Montepulciano ( http://www.villacicolina.it/eng/villacicolina.htm) which was nice but much more expensive. It would be quite a long walk to town from there. We also ended up getting a parking ticket when visiting town. So I would definitely ask about the parking options if you decide to stay in town. From what I remember there are two options. There is a parking lot in town but I am not sure if that was only for short term parking. There is also one at the base of the town (sort of below town)...meaning a lot of steep steps up and down to get to your car. I agree that Montepulciano is also charming too. It is a bigger town. San Quirico is tiny. There is no problem driving in this area at all. Good Luck.
Paulo59 is offline  
Mar 7th, 2009, 09:34 AM
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Sorry, I did not stop to think about the 1 bath issue. There is on street parking directly in front of the apartment, but it does fill up. Once or twice we were able to park there, and the other times we parked in a lot a level below this area, which just added a few extra steps down a flight of stairs.

Regarding the parking in front of the apartment, the trick is figuring out how to get there. It is a one way street, and Politian is basically at the far (exiting end) of the street. You can't drive through town to get there, since it is closed to non-locals (my understanding at least).

So what we ended up doing, on Giacomo's instructions, was to turn at the church and then park near the church or back down to an open parking space. Not as bad as it sounds and usually only 20-30 feet. We were there in mid-October. The town was pretty quiet in the evenings, so it was not difficult to execute this maneuver.
mama_mia is offline  
Mar 7th, 2009, 04:46 PM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,660
you might consider staying in a town for dinner options, and then just enjoy lunch in different towns that you visit. if you decide to do this, you will have more options if you consider a hotel. i prefer staying in a town and walking back from dinner.

we usually stay at the hotel dei capitani in montalcino. we love it, as we're there in the summer and it has a lovely pool. the prices are great (a little over 100 euro for a double) and the views are breathtaking.

regarding grappolo blu... we have eaten there twice -- the first time was fantastic, but last summer when we visited, it was really disappointing. we don't plan on returning.

have a great trip!
dina4 is offline  
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