sethsmom

My husband and I are planning a two-week trip to Scotland to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary. I've spent lots of time in Barnes & Noble bookstore soaking up all I can of Scotland. We want to see lots of countryside, castles, cairns/stones, etc. So, we're now planning our itinerary and need some help! So far, this is what we're thinking but would love any suggestions:

Day One: Fly into Edinburgh

Day Two: Leave Edinburgh and drive through Stirling, Loch Lomond, Inveraray, stay at Ardanaiseig Hotel (Taynuilt)

Day Three: Explore Kilmartin, Oban and various Argyll castles (suggestions???)

Day Four: Leave and drive through Glen Coe, Glenfinnan, Mallaig, take ferry to Skye, stay at ?????(any suggestions?)

Day Five: Explore Skye

Day Six: Explore Lewis/Harris

Day Seven: Leave Skye, drive through Dornie, Ft. Augustus and up to Inverness. Boat tour of Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle, then drive and stay in Nairn (sleep suggestions???Clifton House???)

Day Eight: Explore Nairn, nearby castles, Culloden

Day Nine: Leave Nairn and head down to Perthshire (suggestions on route, sights not to miss?) and stay around Perth (sleep suggestions)

Day Ten: Leave Perthshire and head for St. Andrews, through Cupar, see East Neuk villages, then back to Edinburgh (best route???)to The Witchery.

Day Eleven: Explore Edinburgh

Day Twelve: Explore Edinburgh

Day Thirteen: Fly home


Whew...the plan is taking shape but we would appreciate your suggestions and advice!!!

ms_go

Hi sethsmom,

We just got back last night from a 12-day trip that was similar to what you've outlined, but in reverse. We are working on a trip report and will post it and a link to some photos, hopefully later this week (we both have to attend to some real work first, of course...). It was a great trip, by the way.

Rather than ending in Edinburgh, we spent our first few days there so as to get acclimated and over the jet lag before we had to get out and drive on the left side of the road. We rented the car at the airport on our way out of Edinburgh.

In general, we found that it often takes longer than you think to get from point to point. With that in mind, your second and third days seem like quite a bit to do. The things to see in and around Stirling could easily occupy most of a day. We stayed in Oban and drove down to Kilmartin Glen. The drive, plus seeing the various things in Kilmartin and lunch took five or six hours.

Your plan includes a lot of driving -- we put just under 1,300 miles on the car in the eight days outside of Edinburgh. There were some days where it felt like we were in the car a bit too much or were trying to hurry.

We didn't go to Lewis/Harris, but you might consider staying in Uig, since the ferry leaves from there. We stayed at the Uig Hotel and it was a good base for the Trotternish Peninsula. Portree is also a nice town with more dining options, etc. If the weather is good and you like to hike, don't miss the trail at the Old Man of Storr.

Nairn seemed like a nice town. We had dinner there (Aurora Hotel) and walked on the beach in the evening. For the drive between Perth and the Moray area, we took a winding scenic route up through the Deeside rather than the faster A9.

Some of my favorites from the trip:

-hiking on Skye
-exploring ruined castles with no one else around, particularly the ones up near the Moray (Kildrummy, Duffus, Spynie Palace)
-Linlithgow Palace
-Elgin Cathedral
-Kilmartin Glen
-Mary King's Close tour in Edinburgh (a few cheesy parts, but overall very interesting)
-Scone Palace and grounds (near Perth)
-Oban
-Inchmahome Priory and the area around Loch Katrine (if we had been there on a good weather day and had the time, a bike ride along the path of Loch Katrine would have been nice)

By the way, we liked all of our lodging choices:

Edinburgh -- Castle View Guest House

Moray (near Elgin, about 15 miles from Nairn) -- Parrandier, Old Church of Urquhart. This is an old church on a hill in a rural area that has been converted into a B&B.

Uig, Skye -- Uig Hotel

Oban -- Kilchrenan House, right on the Corran Esplanade with great views of the harbor

Carriden House -- a castle-type B&B, also a little off the beaten path but near Linlithgow. Easy access to the airport.

What time of year are you planning to go, by the way? The long daylight right now -- 4:30am to 10:30pm really helped us stretch the days.

Also, we were fairly lucky with weather. We had our share of rain, but it didn't interfere with too many of our plans. But, it is always a good idea to have some contingencies in your plan in case you have a really bad weather day.

sethsmom

Hi ms_go: Thanks so much for the reply. I can't wait to read your trip report and see photos. Thanks for sharing your "favorites". It also really helps to know how long driving from place to place and seeing the "sights" the right way will take. Maybe we should go to Stirling for the day, sleep in Edinburgh the second night and then head for the Argyll area. Thoughts? What was the Uig Hotel like? Any knowledge about Skeabost Country House near Portree? We are planning on going mid-September, although May is still an option. Which is the best time to go?

sheila

Hi, sethsmom. Thank you for your email. Generally speaking I think this is a pretty god itinerary.

A few comments...

1. If you fly into Glasgow. You might want to stay there rather than go over to edinburgh the first day. I would also miss Stirling out on your day 2, in that case and head for startight fro Loch Lomond. If you fly into Edinburgh forget the foregoing. As Mrs_ go says, that's a long day, and all I would say is, think about where you want to spend it. If you're aiming for rurla and rustic, skip Stirling. If you really want to see Stirling, miss out Loch Lomond, go straight to Crianlarich. It's 38 lonnnng miles shorter.


When are you at the Ardanaiseig? We're there in August

Argyll castles? Inverary, Castle Stalker, Benderloch, Dunstaffnage, Dunadd, Duntrune, Carnasserie, Kilchurn, Castle Tioram, Barcaldine, Stonefield, Castle Lachlan,.. Duart Castle, Castle Sween, Skipness Castle, Rothesay Castle,Torosay Castle to name but a few that spring to mind.

The two places I love on Skye are the Hotel Eilean Iarmain, and the Sligachan- for completely different reasons. I'd also give my eye teeth to stay at the the House over Bye at teh Three Chimneys. But I have some sympathy with Mrs_go's notion of proximity and the Uig Hotel. Last time I stayed there, it was not a wonderful experience- but it was convenient for the ferry, and rumour has it that it has changed hands and is much upgraded.

I don't know the Skeabost- I have a friend who is getting married at the Flodigarry at the end of the year who says it's stunning.

I wonder if you should think of spending a night on Harris? It's 2 hours on the boat each way to Tarbet, so with the best will in the world, you'll lost a lot of the day on the ferry.

Think about coming off to Ullapol from Stornoway and making your way to Inverness from there? (I know, I know; it misses out Loch Ness- well, it's not much of a detour)


OTOH, I've just looked at the time table and it would very much depend which day you were doing this (not to mention if it's the summer or the winter timetable.)
Nairn Hotels- the Clifton, the Golf View and the Boath House

I'm copying my Inverness to Perth route (only it goes the other way- so you have to reverse it)

Perth is a very nice little city; capital of Scotland before Edinburgh and imbued with history. There are two large parks on the edge of the city centre, the North and South Inches.(Inch is from the Gaelic innis- a meadow)The story goes that a particular Earl of Perth wanting to be buried in the City Church, St John's, told the town magistrates " If you give me six feet, I'll give you two inches"

Take time to climb Kinnoull Hill which proudly overlooks the town and the Tay and is surmounted by a folly castle built by another Earl of Perth, who had done the Grand Tour and thought that the Tay valley was just like the Rhine except it didn't have castles on its hilltops- so he faked a couple.

Then drive on to Dunkeld, a lovely town on the Tay, with a beautiful historic square, a cathedral and some wonderful views. There's a pub in the village (the name of which I can't remember but it's the second one on the street on the right immediately over the bridge- you can't miss it) which is owned by Dougie Mclean one of Scotland's greatest contemporary singer songwriters. It can be a fine place to spend an evening.

If you then take a wee detour west to Aberfeldy and Loch Tay you will pass Breadalbane Castle, former home of the Marquis of Breadalbane, and now a golf course! and come to the lovely 18th century planned village of Kenmore. the Loch is stunning. And if you're up to the walk, go along the north side to Ben Lawers and drive up to the National Trust visitor centre. Time it right and then walk up to the top. Don't do this if it's raining unless you're nuts!

Then drive back down to Pitlochry (if you go along the north side of the river you pass the Farleyer Hotel, which has a stunning bistro..It's not cheap mind you). Pitlochry is a tourist dive, so don't stay long; although it is a good place to get your tweeds and tartans and woolens and things...if you've got any money left after Edinburgh and lunch at the Farleyer.

Go north again and stop at Killiecrankie and see the famous soldier's leap. If you don't know the story, learn the song.

A couple of miles further on is Blair Atholl, another planned village and a superb castle for a visit. the Duke of Atholl is the only person is the UK licenced by the Queen to have a private army.

From Blair Atholl, go north again on the A9. You will pass a place called House of Bruar which markets itself as "the Harrods of the North" It's a real fancy shop and I hate to say it but I love it. Worth stopping.

Next up you will come to Dalwhinnie- great whisky, great distillery. I don't know if it dies tours but it's worth stopping if it does. Come off the main road somewhere north of here and carry on on the old main road- less traffic and more scenic.

You come to Newtonmore and Kingussie I can never remember which comes first, but at the first one there is a superb 17th century barracks built by the English to keep the Scots down after Culloden. Worth a trip. It's immediately adjacent to Insch Marches which is another bird reserve- lots of brilliant ducks and waders ( did I mention I was into birds?) Carry on up the Spey until just before Aviemore and turn right as though you were going to Grantown on Spey. You come first to Rothiemurchus which has all sorts of visitor facilities, then to Abernethy estate, which is also owned by the bird people (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds- like the Audobon) At their Loch Garten reserve you can see Osprey which are wonderful fish eating raptors which live in Africa in winter and come to visit us in summer. They always come back to the same nest so the RSPB have a live TV camera showing everything that is going on. In June you should have young in the nest. In any case, Rothiemurchus and Abernethy are remnant Caledonian pine forest- our oldest trees; and I guarantee you, that, unless you are made of stone, a walk off the track will make your skin tingle. You have the sensation of being where generations have been before. If you go up into the hills here quite a long walk- 4-5 hours, but worth every minute) you may well see Golden Eagle. By going back to Aviemore and going to the ski slopes at Cairngorm, you can take the chairlift well up the mountain; but we'll all hate you for doing it the easy way. If you carry on towards and past Grantown you are into the whisky country of Speyside. Glenfiddich distillery at Dufftown may not make the best malt in the world (there's no such thing as a bad one) but it probably does the best tour.

Back to the A9 along the Spey and you drive on to Inverness capital of the Highlands. (Aviemore is like Pitlochry but modern- avoid it like the plague) you have the Cairngorms Mountains on your right and the Monadliath Mountains on your left. It's just grand.

Huntingtower Hotel for Perth? (I'm using the Ardanaiseig as my benchmark, here)

My Fife route follows. It too needs to be reversed.
Cross over the Forth Road Bridge to Fife. On the other side of the river, Dunfermilne is on your left. Robert the Bruce, the hero king who won Bannockburn is buried here in Dunfermilne Abbey (although his heart is buried at Melrose in the borders); go back onto the main road and you will shortly come to Loch Leven, where Mary Queen of Scots was locked up in the castle on the island (v. romantic..the story of the escape- she then fled to her cousin in England for succour. She locked her up for 20 years then beheaded her.) You can take boat trips from Kinross.
Vane Farm Bird Reserve is on the other side of the Loch.
Then go due east to the coast. There are lots of other nice places, like Ceres, Falkland Palace, the East Neuk villages, Pittenweem, St Monans and Leven - a stretch of picture-postcard little fishing villages, with Anstruther, Crail, etc, leading toward St Andrews. For hiking, there's the Fife Coastal path that runs along the entire coast.
In Anstruther visit the fishing museum, then have the best fish in the world for your lunch. After that drive along the coast to Largo, home of the 'original' Robinson Crusoe. When Daniel Defoe wrote about Robinson Crusoe, he was writing about a real person. His name was Alexander Selkirk and he came from Largo in Fife. Defoe was an English spy up in Scotland in the 1700's and nicked the story. That area of Fife is well worth a visit

In St Andrews, take a trip underneath the castle. It can be a bit of a squeeze so if you are claustrophobic then probably best to pass on this one. John Knox used to live in this castle - also get chance to see the bottle dungeon - according to Tony?s dad, he was imprisoned there as a student for charity or something - some horrific stories he keeps for special occasions. St. Andrews with its ancient university, its cathedral (we do have a lot of them, don't we?) and the home of golf, the Royal and Ancient is seriously worth a visit. It has one of the best beaches in the world- the West Sands, which is where they filmed the opening sequence of Chariots of Fire- shame about the weather- and one of the best ice cream shops in the world (Jannetta's) apart from being a lovely little town.


can I talk you out of the Witchery- see the thread on Edinburgh being crowded and Rogue.

ternstail

If you stick with your original plan I recommend you stay the night of the third day at Ardsheal House between Oban and Glencoe. Fabulous old country house with great hosts and an unbeatable view over Loch Linnhe.

caroline_edinburgh

Do you mean staying at the Witchery or just eating there ? The rooms are absolutely fabulous - have you seen the pictures on www.thewitchery.com ? I've so far stayed in 2 of them (The Old Rectory and The Library) & it's my ambition to do them all. If you are staying there for a few nights, see if you can change rooms each day. The restaturants are OK (there are 2 'onsite', the Witchery itself and the Secret Garden - I think the latter is nicer) and I'd say worth one visit. Martin Wishart is *much* better.

zippo

Skeabost in Skye is a big old country house with a small golf course.It was very good before, difficult to get bookings, not been there since last change of ownership.
I think your itinerary has far too much on it.You cant really experience a place through a windshield.Consider not going to Lewis Harris & Inverness.

sethsmom

Thanks for the great insights! And, I think everyone is right. We are trying to pack so many treasures into just 2 short weeks so we need to cut a few things out and just plan on more trips in the future. I've heard once you visit Scotland you are hooked for life!!!

Sheila, I think we'll take your suggestion, skip Sterling and fly into Glasgow (since we will be spending the last few days of our trip in Edinburgh) and stay the first night there (suggestions for nice sleeps in Glasgow???).

Then, we'll travel over to Argyll via Loch Lomond, Inveraray and stay at Ardanaiseig (our one definite must). Sheila, we're still debating on May or September...what do you think? Either way, we'll sadly miss you in August. From our home base of Ardanaiseig, we'll visit Oban, Kilmartin, argyll castles for a few days.

Then, on to Skye via Glen Coe and the road to the Isles. We'd love to take the steam train from Ft. William to Mallaig but we will have a car. Has anyone taken that trip before??? Maybe we should ditch the car in Ft. William and get another one once we get to Skye.

We will be staying on Skye for three nights. We haven't decided on the first two nights when we'll be exploring Skye (Skeabost looks wonderful although I haven't read many first-hand reports about it???). Ms_go...I think it is a good idea to stay in northern Skye the night we return from Lewis/Harris. We're thinking Flodigarry (how far a drive is it from the ferry in Uig???)

Next, we were planning on visiting Eilean Donan castle, Loch Ness, Urquhart castle. We really want to see Culloden battlefield (I know, it's not much to see but we really want the experience of it). We were planning on staying in Nairn this night; it sounds pretty. However, we could look at other options if someone has a suggestion. Keep in mind that next we want to head down to Perthshire, then on to St. Andrews, east neuk villages, Culross, then to Edinburgh.

ms_go

We passed Flodigarry on our drive around the tip of the peninsula. It looks nice from the pictures I've seen. I can't recall distance exactly, but I'd guess 30-45 minutes. The road from Staffin to Uig through the Quairang and the road around the tip are quite breathtaking, but they are very narrow, winding roads. Allow plenty of time and enjoy the views!

I'm getting closer on the trip report and pics -- maybe I'll have something up tomorrow.

sethsmom

MS_GO...can't wait to see your goodies! We'll probably get some great ideas from your experiences...

mari5

You have a wonderful trip planned,,,and yes, one visit to Scotland and you are hooked for life, as the other reader said. We've been 5 times,(over about 15 yrs.) just returned in April the last time. Spent two weeks(well 10 days and 3 in northEngland, flying into Manchester.) and saw some old favorites and new places. We tend to be "on the move' and you have planned, but the distances aren't too great., and the roads good (until you get to the one way very remote roads on Skye etc ). LOTS of curves all over Scotland however.
This time we did a similar reverse to your trip...Edinburgh, St. Andrews and Fife coast, Perthshire,Blair Atholl, North of Inverness(Dornoch), Inverary, Oban, Glasgow area)etc). Have been twice to Skye..beautiful! You COULD skip Lewis and Harris this time.
Another idea is to fly into Glasgow and out of Edinburgh (or visa versa)..Called "open Jaw" and it doesn't cost a penny more,,,and saves some backtracking, AND you can turn in the car ANYPLACE in the UK (including England) with NO extra charge).
We left from Glasgow and stayed west in Clydebank at a Best WEstern Conference Center, Beardmore..great for the last night OR FIRST NIGHT after arriving when one wants a comfortable nights sleep after flying.
ON the rest of the trip we stayed in B&Bs or small hotels.
One other time we flew in to Glasgow and drove north (only 1 hr) on the west coast of Loch Lomond to the little village called Luss, and had a very restful first night at a lovely hotel (I forget the name)...or you COULD get further the first night depending how much jet lag you have.
You asked about Skeabost House on SKye,...several years ago we ate a beautiful BUFFET Sunday lunch there, but I think they don't have it anymore and I believe the hotel is not what it use to be. It is fairly far out from anyplace, though beautiful. There are loads of nice B&Bs in Portree, plus the Coll????hotel....and in Dunvegan there is a new renovated Dunvegan Hotel. Small, and quite Scottish.
Oh...you'll have a great trip!

sethsmom

Hi...ternstail...thanks for the suggestion...I'll look into Ardsheal.

caroline...The Witchery looks amazing and we're hoping to stay in the Old Rectory. I understand that the new suites are in a separate building from the Old Rectory. Did that detract from your experience??? The whole place looks magical, a little fantasy, and that's what we want for our final few nights to celebrate our 10th.

mari5...thanks for the info about the "open jaw" policy. That is a great idea and will work for us. Also, good news about the car ditch. The steam train ride sounds beautiful and we are considering it...although not sure if we would miss out on spending time in Glenfinnan area if we're whizzing by in the train vs stopping by car and exploring that area. Thoughts???

sheila...thank you soooo much for the great outline of the trip from Inverness to Perth. Your suggestions are great since we wanted to include a distillery and explore some on the way down to Perth. Tell me more about Hotel Eilean Iarmain and Sligachan???

Also, several of you have suggested to skip Lewis/Harris...why??? Our intent was to see more countryside, the blackhouses, standing stones, the weavers in action and hopefully find a jumper or two.

sheila

I can't tell you as much about the two hotels as their web sites.

http://www.eileaniarmain.com/

http://www.sligachan.co.uk/

They're very different to each other, but both very nice.

PLEASE don't drop the Outer Isles. Too many of your compatriots do a predictable loop. The bits that are off the beaten track are magic.

caroline_edinburgh

Hi Ailsa : yes, the Witchery's newer suites are in a different building, but only across the street (which at that point is very narrow and quaintly cobbled). Both buildings are 16th century and very atmospheric. I did prefer the Old Rectory, mainly for the absolutely amazing bathroom. It also has 2 windows overlooking the High Street so is an interesting vantage point, although there is some noise - from parties congregating for the guided tours in the evening, and delivery lorries in the early morning. We thought it was worth that slight inconvenience, though. When you book they ask what time you'll be arriving - this is so that they can prepare the suite for your arrival, with candles all around and the champagne chilling on the table. It really is a magical experience. Hope you do manage to stay there and enjy it as much as we do !

sethsmom

Sheila...OK, Lewis & Harris stay in...so...now help us figure out what we can sacrifice in its place (and please don't say Loch Ness). Although I know we can't see everything we want, I'm not sure I could hold my head up to my kids when they ask for details about the monster and photos.

mari5

It's hard to sacrifice anything in Scotland...you have a LOT planned and it sounds wonderful. The Isle of Mull, also, is a BEAUTIFUL 45 min nice ferry trip from Oban.(and drive over to remote Isle of Iona, one way road)) Harris/Lewis,,the outer Isles would be nice, but would take at least 2 days out of your schedule....4 hours being on the ferry(2 + 2), plus driving around after arriving.....Yes, REMOTE is fun and we usually take out of the way roads through small villages and see PLENTY of "magic" within Scotland. You could leave the Harris part for another trip...OR I guess you COULD leave out the Fife Coast..(St. Andrews and the fishing villages down the coast) for another time, but it is one of our favorite parts. It's very hard to see all one wants of Scotland in two weeks, but you will have a good trip and I know you will enjoy the "adventure". There will be lots of "suprises" not described in the books.. (like distances, roads, cities, villages, countryside, driving conditions etc) ,but that is the fun of it all.
We;ve been in May (this year end of March, first of April) and that is a fun time....September would be great also (we did October twice).
We've always missed the heather blooming...when IS it Shelia?..I think someone said August or September!

sheila

Hey you have to do SOME work yourself. I gave you perfectly good itinerary.

We're all made differently. No WAY would I spend a day on Loch Ness side.

I'd skip the Moray bit if you had to lose something.

And Mari, September for the heather is right.

sethsmom

Hi everyone...well, I've been busy researching and have made a few changes to our upcoming itinerary to Scotland. The planning is so much fun... There are still a couple of places we need a good place to sleep (Portree, Elgin, Perthshire) so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

DAY 1: Fly into Glasgow

DAY 2: Leave Glasgow and drive to Loch Lomond, Rest & Be Peaceful, Inveraray (castle & lunch), stay at Ardanaiseig Hotel (Taynuilt)

DAY 3: Explore Kilmartin & Oban

DAY 4: Leave Ardanaiseig, drive to Oban to catch ferry to Mull, see Iona, return ferry, stay at Pierhouse in Port Appin.

DAY 5: Leave and drive through Glen Coe, catch train to Skye, stay at Eilean Iarmain (Isleornsay)

DAY 6: Explore southern & western Skye and stay in Portree (any sleep suggestions???)

DAY 7: Explore northern Skye

DAY 8: Leave Skye, drive through Dornie, Ft. Augustus, Urquhart Castle, drive by Loch Ness, Culloden, then continue on to Elgin (and good sleep suggestions???)

DAY 9: Explore Elgin, cathedral, Glenfinnich Whiskey tour

DAY 10: Leave Elgin and head down to Perthshire (taking Sheila's great suggestions for stops along the way, stay between Pitlochry and Perth (any insights into any of these place: Farleyer (Aberfeldy), Knockendarroch House (Pitlochry), Pine Trees Hotel (Pitlochry), Ballathie House Hotel (Kinclaven)

DAY 11: Explore Perthshire

DAY 12: Leave Perthshire and head for St. Andrews, through Cupar, see East Neuk villages, then back to Edinburgh to The Witchery.

DAY 13: Explore Edinburgh

DAY 14: Explore Edinburgh

DAY 15: Fly home!

kganza

Only one small thing to add to the plethora of good advice already posted: Spend the money for the guided tour at Culloden. It makes the place a lot more meaningful.

sheila

If it must be Portree try the Viewfield.

If it was me, I'd just stay at the Eilean Iarmain, notwithstanding its slightly unhelpful location.

If that's not an option I'd go outside Portree to the Sligachan, the House over By (the rooms at the Three Chimneys), or the Flodigarry.

Elgin's not known for great hotels. Again. I'd want to be out of the town. If you must be in teh twon, the answer is the Mansion House. But look at the Boath House at Auldearn and the Craigellachie at, oddly, Craigellachie.

In Perthshire, we're about to try to replace our Ardaaiseig nights with the Farleyer. This is its first season under this ownership, so who knows?. As to the Knockindarroch and the Pine Trees, there's nothing wrong with either of them, but nothing that great either. Ballathie's about the same but more upmarket. There's a recent report on it on here, which I'll try to find for you

There's an Inn with attitude just up the hill from Pitlochry you might like- the Moulin Inn; and its sister is the Atholl Arms in Blair Atholl. There's a very posh place just outside Dunkeld called Kinnaird House, which is meant to have a great restaurant. You might like the Hilton in Dunkeld which I still tend to think of as Dunkeld House