Ultimate Month in Sicily
Jun 30th, 2022 | 01:17 PM
#181
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Sassafrass put it best about this being the ultimate report and so did Valgalchi: 'You've covered a lot of places most people would miss on even a 3rd or 4th visit to Sicily. Jayzus what an itinerary, Whitehall!
Glad to see that you had a good time (again). So many fine images. My fave included your S. Vito and and Pza Armerina townscapes, the Acireale patio, the initial food collage at the start plus the St. Lucia balloons--so surreal. Btw, I immediately recognized that artists' portraits of Floyd, with Gilmour being the first face to grab my attention: "Hey, isn't that...?" Also recognized that wonderful mural at the Cefalu gelateria, with the 2 kids licking cones. It takes a special genius to think of such a sign, yeah? So perfect!
Carry on, we're all waiting.
I am done. the jetlagged
Glad to see that you had a good time (again). So many fine images. My fave included your S. Vito and and Pza Armerina townscapes, the Acireale patio, the initial food collage at the start plus the St. Lucia balloons--so surreal. Btw, I immediately recognized that artists' portraits of Floyd, with Gilmour being the first face to grab my attention: "Hey, isn't that...?" Also recognized that wonderful mural at the Cefalu gelateria, with the 2 kids licking cones. It takes a special genius to think of such a sign, yeah? So perfect!
Carry on, we're all waiting.
I am done. the jetlagged
Thank you. Awesome that you recognized Pink Floyd. Those "portraits" were done with Modica chocolate.
Jun 30th, 2022 | 06:11 PM
#184
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Thank you. I am hoping that this might be an obviously small part in encouraging travel to some of those little places. I love Rome, Venice, Florence, Taormina etc., and visited two of those on this trip; but they are all quite crowded. There are so many alternatives in Italy and Sicily. I also want to encourage people, at least when they can, to not be afraid to travel on their own. There is a place for tour groups, especially for those unable to drive, etc., but DIY travel is so easy and enjoyable.
Thank you. I injured my knee playing tennis early last fall and six weeks later was still hobbling a bit when our daughter married late November. I reluctantly gave up tennis to make sure we would be up to this trip and happily all 220 miles of walking (much of it uphill on uneven surfaces) worked. I am very thankful.
Jul 1st, 2022 | 04:48 AM
#185
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Day 22: Tindari
Another Sicilian surprise!
It is easy to get “churched out” in Italy, so the Sanctuary of Tindari was just a "maybe" for us. Another beautiful day, though, finally made this church, which commands superb sea views, and that can be seen for miles around, a definite stop. The church itself is a destination for pilgrims since some believe that its Black Madonna was brought there as part of a miracle.
This is less than 90 minutes east of Cefalu (and a couple dozen or so tunnels if you take the faster route).
The church itself is relatively new, built in the 1950’s over the ruins of an older church and ancient castle, and is magnificent. But, there is so much more here.
The remnants of the city wall have left massive stones all around this property, but the surprise comes with the remains of the ancient city, a short stroll from the church. Ancient, as in some of it going back to 400 BC. Although not as big, this is a Pompeii-like experience. The remains of the early Roman basilica include those huge stones that were also used in the city walls. They also have unearthed houses with some impressive mosaic tiles including the Trinacria, the mythological three-legged woman that symbolizes Sicily and is on the Sicilian flag.
Our biggest treat was seeing the 3,000 person theater overlooking the sea. The bonus, as you will see in the photos, is that our visit, on a gorgeous weather day, was shared by very few other people, far different than you might find any day in Pompeii or Ostia Antica near Rome.
And, one other surprise, just below this ancient city and magnificent church, there is a nature reserve that includes a long stretch of sand beach and saltwater pools. Although it was 80 degrees or so today, there were also few people taking advantage of that special place.
Two other things: you can get a good view of Mt. Etna from here, which was erupting with lots of steam today (black and white), but the fresh snow on its slopes, after a warm week at least below, was our last surprise. And, we also got our best glimpse of the trip of the Aeolian Islands, which we plan to explore during the following week.
It is easy to get “churched out” in Italy, so the Sanctuary of Tindari was just a "maybe" for us. Another beautiful day, though, finally made this church, which commands superb sea views, and that can be seen for miles around, a definite stop. The church itself is a destination for pilgrims since some believe that its Black Madonna was brought there as part of a miracle.
This is less than 90 minutes east of Cefalu (and a couple dozen or so tunnels if you take the faster route).
The church itself is relatively new, built in the 1950’s over the ruins of an older church and ancient castle, and is magnificent. But, there is so much more here.
The remnants of the city wall have left massive stones all around this property, but the surprise comes with the remains of the ancient city, a short stroll from the church. Ancient, as in some of it going back to 400 BC. Although not as big, this is a Pompeii-like experience. The remains of the early Roman basilica include those huge stones that were also used in the city walls. They also have unearthed houses with some impressive mosaic tiles including the Trinacria, the mythological three-legged woman that symbolizes Sicily and is on the Sicilian flag.
Our biggest treat was seeing the 3,000 person theater overlooking the sea. The bonus, as you will see in the photos, is that our visit, on a gorgeous weather day, was shared by very few other people, far different than you might find any day in Pompeii or Ostia Antica near Rome.
And, one other surprise, just below this ancient city and magnificent church, there is a nature reserve that includes a long stretch of sand beach and saltwater pools. Although it was 80 degrees or so today, there were also few people taking advantage of that special place.
Two other things: you can get a good view of Mt. Etna from here, which was erupting with lots of steam today (black and white), but the fresh snow on its slopes, after a warm week at least below, was our last surprise. And, we also got our best glimpse of the trip of the Aeolian Islands, which we plan to explore during the following week.
Jul 1st, 2022 | 07:49 AM
#187
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There is so much to see and do in Sicily. Unless you spend a month or more, you do have to pick and choose. We are seeing more and more people, based on Facebook comments, spending longer periods there. Food and lodging costs are low. Rental cars not so much.
Last edited by whitehall; Jul 1st, 2022 at 08:39 AM.
Jul 1st, 2022 | 01:42 PM
#188
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Day 22: Novara di Sicilia
Novara di Sicilia is a mountain town that features two annual competitions, one is a “slalom” car race that took place the week before we were there, as cars race on hairpin turns and then zig zag between cones in selected spots. Plenty of those kind of turns on the way up here. The other race is a competition with rolling cheese wheels through town. We saw lots of “race cars” but not only a little cheese.
Above the village is the Rocca Novara, which is known as the Matterhorn of Sicily for its large conical shape. To the north across drought-ravaged dry river bed is the Mediterranean.
We spotted only two other tourists, had a great porchetta sandwich in the medieval town from a very friendly meat shop, and Aperol Spritz, with generous appetizers, at an elegant, but low priced, restaurant that is part of the castle ruins.
Above the village is the Rocca Novara, which is known as the Matterhorn of Sicily for its large conical shape. To the north across drought-ravaged dry river bed is the Mediterranean.
We spotted only two other tourists, had a great porchetta sandwich in the medieval town from a very friendly meat shop, and Aperol Spritz, with generous appetizers, at an elegant, but low priced, restaurant that is part of the castle ruins.
Jul 1st, 2022 | 04:57 PM
#189
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Day 22: Crossing Peloritani Mountains
Shortly after leaving Novara, we decided to take the most direct route to our next base, Savoca. We could either go around the Peloritani Mountains or cross them, but that wasn’t obvious on the GPS. And, trying to cross them was a big, time consuming mistake. We kept seeing dry river beds, realizing for the first time how bad the drought has been in Sicily.
Apple GPS took us in circles three or four times, so we switched to Google and that took us north and then directed us to cross one of the dry river beds (not sure how they handled that before the drought, but we nixed that too). Back to Apple, we returned to a familiar tiny town, watching what looked like a rabid fox also running in circles, without anyone else apparently noticing.
Desperate, we flagged down someone who didn’t speak English and pointed to Savoca on our phone. He motioned for us to follow his car, and he whizzed up some scary, narrow roads, while we prayed no one would come in the other direction. Then he pointed uphill, said what we understood to be 7 kilometers and "Ciao". We said “Grazie” and started up a bumpy, narrow, steep, winding (did I say narrow and overgrown with terrible visibility?) road that required us to honk all the way up.
Fortunately, no cars tried to come down, but eventually, we were riding by windmills at the top of a mountain, where roads went off in various directions. Now, we saw some vehicles ahead, perhaps people involved with the windmills, heading by us, but on another road above us. We waved down an SUV, and again pleaded with a non-English speaking man to help. He shook his head that we were on the wrong road and pointed in a different direction, and he led the way. Although he finally got us back to some paved roads on the other side of the mountain, it was hard to keep up with his speed on still very narrow roads. Anyway, once we reached civilization, at the bottom of the mountain, we noticed he was waving to several townspeople. He then did a U-turn, pointed that we needed to continue going the way we were and gave us a thumbs up.
Apple GPS took us in circles three or four times, so we switched to Google and that took us north and then directed us to cross one of the dry river beds (not sure how they handled that before the drought, but we nixed that too). Back to Apple, we returned to a familiar tiny town, watching what looked like a rabid fox also running in circles, without anyone else apparently noticing.
Desperate, we flagged down someone who didn’t speak English and pointed to Savoca on our phone. He motioned for us to follow his car, and he whizzed up some scary, narrow roads, while we prayed no one would come in the other direction. Then he pointed uphill, said what we understood to be 7 kilometers and "Ciao". We said “Grazie” and started up a bumpy, narrow, steep, winding (did I say narrow and overgrown with terrible visibility?) road that required us to honk all the way up.
Fortunately, no cars tried to come down, but eventually, we were riding by windmills at the top of a mountain, where roads went off in various directions. Now, we saw some vehicles ahead, perhaps people involved with the windmills, heading by us, but on another road above us. We waved down an SUV, and again pleaded with a non-English speaking man to help. He shook his head that we were on the wrong road and pointed in a different direction, and he led the way. Although he finally got us back to some paved roads on the other side of the mountain, it was hard to keep up with his speed on still very narrow roads. Anyway, once we reached civilization, at the bottom of the mountain, we noticed he was waving to several townspeople. He then did a U-turn, pointed that we needed to continue going the way we were and gave us a thumbs up.
Jul 2nd, 2022 | 04:38 AM
#190
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Day 22-24: Savoca: Godfather
We had the good fortune to have a room at a B&B in Savoca, with a large terrace looking right up to the side of the church (and procession path) where Michael Corleone was married in Godfather I. Super stunning. Most people come on tour buses, often from Taormina and spend an hour or two. It is a tiny, but breathtaking, hill town with a nice circular uphill path from the little square. It is a town with minimal lodging places.
Bar Vitelli, another memorable spot from the film, sits in the square, where you first arrive, and the owners and staff happily accommodate all the photos and selfies. After all, Bar Vitelli might not exist if it were not for the film. The interior of this beautiful building is full of antiques and movie photographs. You will pay prices there more like we are used to in the US, but the extra is the admission fee for the photo opps. After the buses go, you can have Bar Vitelli to yourself, and the proprietors treat you more like a local, and, in our case, gave us a complimentary plate of bruschetta.
The church can be seen from the square, perched on the top of the hill. The church knows that visitors are not coming to pray, so they allow access to only a small part just inside from the marble step at the front doors, where the movie ceremony was conducted. (The ceremony was conducted on the outside steps because they would not allow filming inside). But now they even provide some movie history inside the church.
As I indicated previously, we re-watched all three films in advance of our visit, not realizing that it was the 50th anniversary of the original film. The added hype probably made Savoca a little busier during the day, so we tried to leave each day before the tour buses arrived. This was one of four towns we visited that had film locations, but this is the most prominent one.
Bar Vitelli, another memorable spot from the film, sits in the square, where you first arrive, and the owners and staff happily accommodate all the photos and selfies. After all, Bar Vitelli might not exist if it were not for the film. The interior of this beautiful building is full of antiques and movie photographs. You will pay prices there more like we are used to in the US, but the extra is the admission fee for the photo opps. After the buses go, you can have Bar Vitelli to yourself, and the proprietors treat you more like a local, and, in our case, gave us a complimentary plate of bruschetta.
The church can be seen from the square, perched on the top of the hill. The church knows that visitors are not coming to pray, so they allow access to only a small part just inside from the marble step at the front doors, where the movie ceremony was conducted. (The ceremony was conducted on the outside steps because they would not allow filming inside). But now they even provide some movie history inside the church.
As I indicated previously, we re-watched all three films in advance of our visit, not realizing that it was the 50th anniversary of the original film. The added hype probably made Savoca a little busier during the day, so we tried to leave each day before the tour buses arrived. This was one of four towns we visited that had film locations, but this is the most prominent one.
Jul 2nd, 2022 | 09:51 AM
#191
Joined: Jan 2008
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Whitehall--I'm sure that we weren't alone in instantly recognizing that S. Nicolo church shown in your great second shot, from the wedding procession scene in the film! Agree with you--stunning pretty.
Btw, Francis Ford Coppola was one of the few Hollywood A-list directors/producers who actually read the script that Mrs Z and I wrote just after 911. It was a biopic about Harriet Tubman called 'Sweet Freedom'.
I am done. the filmic scenes
Btw, Francis Ford Coppola was one of the few Hollywood A-list directors/producers who actually read the script that Mrs Z and I wrote just after 911. It was a biopic about Harriet Tubman called 'Sweet Freedom'.
I am done. the filmic scenes
Jul 2nd, 2022 | 05:11 PM
#193
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Whitehall--I'm sure that we weren't alone in instantly recognizing that S. Nicolo church shown in your great second shot, from the wedding procession scene in the film! Agree with you--stunning pretty.
Btw, Francis Ford Coppola was one of the few Hollywood A-list directors/producers who actually read the script that Mrs Z and I wrote just after 911. It was a biopic about Harriet Tubman called 'Sweet Freedom'.
I am done. the filmic scenes
Btw, Francis Ford Coppola was one of the few Hollywood A-list directors/producers who actually read the script that Mrs Z and I wrote just after 911. It was a biopic about Harriet Tubman called 'Sweet Freedom'.
I am done. the filmic scenes
We have a son who lives in Skaneateles, NY, a few minutes from Auburn, where Harriet Tubman lived, sheltered many and died. Auburn is also the home of Hunters Cafe (owned at one time by the parents of Joe Biden’s first wife). Biden’s first marriage was in Skaneateles. Anyway, we have always been fans of Tubman and now wonder what happened to your “Sweet Freedom.”
Yes, that was the third and last scary drive of the trip, although we left our car on the mainland when we spent 6 of our remaining days in the Aeolian islands. However, I would drive again, just be more selective about which roads and which GPS options to ignore.
Jul 2nd, 2022 | 05:47 PM
#194
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Day 22-24: Savoca: Perfect Small Town Without Godfather
Savoca is about more than the Godfather. We used the town as a 3-night base (easily went to Giardini Naxos, Taormina, Mt. Etna and the Gambino Winery from here). And, yes, we also were day trippers at another nearby “Godfather town”, Forza d’Agro (for which we will have a separate post).
Mornings and evenings are almost surreal and quiet. In our first three weeks in Sicily, this is the place that has felt most like home, since we have three times lived on islands that have similarly low populations, few overnight visitors, limited commercial activity and spectacular beauty. There aren’t many food and drink places, so it’s easy to make new friends from the small pool of overnight guests in town. And the people here 50 years later are still so thankful for Godfather that they are super friendly and welcoming.
Unfortunately, the castle grounds on top are closed. There are some steep, slightly overgrown, steps to a commanding overlook where Good Friday is celebrated each year. A nearby convent also has a crypt that contains mummified remains of many local leaders from the 18th and 19th centuries.
Oranges are nearing the end of season, grapes are just starting, but lemon trees are loaded. And, we plucked the best tasting apricot we ever had off a tree on an old church property. Speaking of the old church, there is a group trying to restore and save this church full of beautiful frescoes.
From Savoca, there are views of Calabria, several hill towns, the Mediterranean and Mt. Etna. Locals love their home and are some of the nicest people we have met in Sicily. We generally buy only one drink, but the owners of one little truck bar not only gave us a free limoncello, but they gave us a parting gift of their best bottle of Etna wine.
Mornings and evenings are almost surreal and quiet. In our first three weeks in Sicily, this is the place that has felt most like home, since we have three times lived on islands that have similarly low populations, few overnight visitors, limited commercial activity and spectacular beauty. There aren’t many food and drink places, so it’s easy to make new friends from the small pool of overnight guests in town. And the people here 50 years later are still so thankful for Godfather that they are super friendly and welcoming.
Unfortunately, the castle grounds on top are closed. There are some steep, slightly overgrown, steps to a commanding overlook where Good Friday is celebrated each year. A nearby convent also has a crypt that contains mummified remains of many local leaders from the 18th and 19th centuries.
Oranges are nearing the end of season, grapes are just starting, but lemon trees are loaded. And, we plucked the best tasting apricot we ever had off a tree on an old church property. Speaking of the old church, there is a group trying to restore and save this church full of beautiful frescoes.
From Savoca, there are views of Calabria, several hill towns, the Mediterranean and Mt. Etna. Locals love their home and are some of the nicest people we have met in Sicily. We generally buy only one drink, but the owners of one little truck bar not only gave us a free limoncello, but they gave us a parting gift of their best bottle of Etna wine.
Jul 3rd, 2022 | 07:47 AM
#196
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Day 23: Forza D’Agro
Forza d’Agro is the location of the other Godfather church (from second and third films in trilogy). Quiet lanes, sweeping coastal views, pretty flowers. Few tourists.
View of Savoca from Forza d'Agro
"Godfather" Church
View of Savoca from Forza d'Agro
"Godfather" Church
Jul 3rd, 2022 | 12:34 PM
#197
Joined: Jan 2008
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Location scout's original voice mail for Director Coppola:
"Yeah boss, so I'm going to need another couple of months to find just the right church. All these different churches....kinda' hard to choose....so anyway, will call you next month. Mkay? Cheers!"
I am done. the delay by design
"Yeah boss, so I'm going to need another couple of months to find just the right church. All these different churches....kinda' hard to choose....so anyway, will call you next month. Mkay? Cheers!"
I am done. the delay by design
Jul 3rd, 2022 | 03:10 PM
#199
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Location scout's original voice mail for Director Coppola:
"Yeah boss, so I'm going to need another couple of months to find just the right church. All these different churches....kinda' hard to choose....so anyway, will call you next month. Mkay? Cheers!"
I am done. the delay by design
"Yeah boss, so I'm going to need another couple of months to find just the right church. All these different churches....kinda' hard to choose....so anyway, will call you next month. Mkay? Cheers!"
I am done. the delay by design
Ha Ha......I would love to be a location scout.
Especially the alleys with beautiful flowers and few signs of people. Some of those crumbing buildings have gotten a new life, thanks to Italian tax credits and the generous "super-bonus."
Jul 3rd, 2022 | 03:24 PM
#200
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Day 23 Giardini Naxos
Giardini Naxos has a colorful almost South Beach vibe. Great views of Taormina and Castelmola. Small cruise ships and yachts. Lots of seafood, pizza and and gelato. Affordable lodging and proximity to Taormina make this a popular destination for many. Even lots of lava rock from an unlikely volcanic eruption in my grandfather’s hometown that I’ll describe in an upcoming post.
