Tuscany and where????? Please help me decide!
Nov 29th, 2009, 08:18 AM
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Tuscany and where????? Please help me decide!
Fall of 2010 we’re planning a trip to Italy, probably for 2 weeks, maybe a few days more. At the moment I’ve chosen a self catering near Monticchiello as a base for 5 to 7 days, depending upon when we go. Tuscany is a definite for the trip. 
I’m at a loss to decide on another area to “base” for 5 days or so. There are so many fascinating places people talk about on these boards!
We’ll be flying into and out of Rome. We’re not sure at this time if we will spend time in Rome or just head out into the country.
We’re not city types or beach people. My husband would love to be somewhere mountainous (we’ve dismissed the alps in the north as too much driving, that will be another trip!) We love walking, gardens, local “flavor”, history ( but we don’t know much about Italian history or speak Italian, so interpreting something without English signage or audio might be frustrating)
Abruzzo????? I don’t find much mention of the National Parks in Italy. I was wondering about somewhere in the mountains towards the east coast, but I don’t know how extensive the damage was from the earthquakes this past spring.
I’ve thought about visiting Herculaneum and/or Pompeii, was looking at a B&B near Ravello. Apparently there are some nice gardens in that area also.
Le Marches? Umbria? Orvieto?
Too many choices!
I’m at a loss to decide on another area to “base” for 5 days or so. There are so many fascinating places people talk about on these boards!
We’ll be flying into and out of Rome. We’re not sure at this time if we will spend time in Rome or just head out into the country.
We’re not city types or beach people. My husband would love to be somewhere mountainous (we’ve dismissed the alps in the north as too much driving, that will be another trip!) We love walking, gardens, local “flavor”, history ( but we don’t know much about Italian history or speak Italian, so interpreting something without English signage or audio might be frustrating)
Abruzzo????? I don’t find much mention of the National Parks in Italy. I was wondering about somewhere in the mountains towards the east coast, but I don’t know how extensive the damage was from the earthquakes this past spring.
I’ve thought about visiting Herculaneum and/or Pompeii, was looking at a B&B near Ravello. Apparently there are some nice gardens in that area also.
Le Marches? Umbria? Orvieto?
Too many choices!
Nov 29th, 2009, 10:10 AM
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The obvious choice for a combination with Tuscany is Umbria - Eastern Umbria (much overlooked by travelers yet gorgeous) is also really mountainous. Of course, Abruzzo would be a great choice (still nobody traveling there, and plenty of good sights, and beautiful scenery), but I suggest waiting a few years, the earthquake has left L'Aquila (the most interesting town/small city) in bad condition. Le Marche is a good idea, as well, but perhaps less so if you don't want to learn any Italian (you have plenty of time left to do so!) - same goes for Abruzzo: regions without tourists, so with English only, it might be less pleasant. Anyway, signage of historical sights is not what distinguishes Italy (not even in Italian), so you'll have to get yourself a bunch of excellent books on art history instead of relying on information (not) available on the ground.
Nov 30th, 2009, 12:36 PM
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Umbria and Abruzzo are fantastic as well as Marche, but you may not want to go to Marche if you're not really going to learn much Italian. For the most part it's still authentic and unadulterated which is my great attraction to it. And I would definitely recommend as much time as possible spent! Liguria could be another option, and up North people do tend to be better with English, and no one wants to miss authentic pesto If you choose Rome though, you won't be dissappointed and in fact may want to stay there even longer. Since you mentioned self catering options, if in Rome, www.leisureinrome.com is an excellent website with many good deals, and friendly, English speaking service.....and fantastic properties, so it's worth a look!
If you choose Rome though, you won't be dissappointed and in fact may want to stay there even longer. Since you mentioned self catering options, if in Rome, www.leisureinrome.com is an excellent website with many good deals, and friendly, English speaking service.....and fantastic properties, so it's worth a look!
Nov 30th, 2009, 12:45 PM
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I based in Perugia ( a big town but i like towns) and did wondrous day trips from there to such Umbrian gems as Gubbio, Urbino (not sure in Umbria) and Todi and Cortona - Assisi is close by as well.
and the Amalfi Coast area has so so much - Pompeii - Ercolo - climb up to the crater of Mt Vesuvius (bus to staging area) and boats to Capri, Ischia - and of course the wonderful Amalfi towns - Ravello, Amalfi, Positano, etc. - Few areas IMO have such easy and great day trips from any Amalfi base - Sorrento is the most utilitarian in terms of situation i believe but Amalfi, Positano are much more romantic - also in easy reach are the fantastic Greek temples at Pasestum - of course with the Amalfi you need not have a car as boats and buses take you everywhere and the CircumVesuviana train goes right to the gates of Pompeii and close to Ercolo's gates.
and the Amalfi Coast area has so so much - Pompeii - Ercolo - climb up to the crater of Mt Vesuvius (bus to staging area) and boats to Capri, Ischia - and of course the wonderful Amalfi towns - Ravello, Amalfi, Positano, etc. - Few areas IMO have such easy and great day trips from any Amalfi base - Sorrento is the most utilitarian in terms of situation i believe but Amalfi, Positano are much more romantic - also in easy reach are the fantastic Greek temples at Pasestum - of course with the Amalfi you need not have a car as boats and buses take you everywhere and the CircumVesuviana train goes right to the gates of Pompeii and close to Ercolo's gates.
Nov 30th, 2009, 01:09 PM
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You must get a good Italy book and read. See what calls out for you. That being said, we have based in Spoleto and Perugia and did bus and train trips easily from both. Although we did end up getting a driver for Montepulciano and Montalchino for speed.
For climbing, perhaps you should read about Cinque Terre?
For climbing, perhaps you should read about Cinque Terre?
Dec 1st, 2009, 01:56 AM
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Hi Wren - I think the Amalfi Coast would be a great choice. Great historical sites, mountains, stunning coastal walks (- Path of the Gods) ... what more could you want?
Steve
P.S. Hope your autumn trip went well
Steve
P.S. Hope your autumn trip went well
Dec 1st, 2009, 12:45 PM
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Hi Steve! We had a great time in SW England. Loved Devon (I think I inherited a “sheep chromosome” from my Devon ancestors) and we had a great time in Bath and with Henry VIII at Hampton Court. Coastal walks and gardens, and oh my, those scones and clotted cream!!!!! I plan on doing a trip report after Christmas.
So on to Italy!
Steve and Palenque, I do think I’ve ignored the Almalfi coast, thinking of posh towns and yachts and tons of tourists. At the moment I’m thinking our first B&B may be in Ravello. Apparently very helpful English speaking owners. Possibilities from here include Pompeii, Herculaneum, The Greek Temples, Vesuvius, Villa Cimbrone, The path of the Gods. 3-4 nights?
And I am getting more comfortable with the idea of Rome as I found a nice B&B outside of Rome to stay. It’s 45 minutes on the train into Rome, and the B&B owners will hook you up with a tour guide. I’ve decided this is important to me, I seem to learn so much better from an actual person. 3-4 nights?
I have 7 available nights from landing at FCO to our booking in Monticchellio, so we can stay 3 nights each at these two places and stay one night in Orvieto on the way to Monticchiello, or spend all 7 nights in these two spots and just stop at Orvieto (or someplace else) along the way
4 nights in Monticchiello to do Stu Dudley’s driving tour of Tuscany and visit hill towns, abbeys, monasteries etc.
That would leave me with 4 more nights to spend somewhere. I’m thinking we might like to explore Parco Nazionale Gran Sasso or Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibilini, but where to stay? Norcia?
So on to Italy!
Steve and Palenque, I do think I’ve ignored the Almalfi coast, thinking of posh towns and yachts and tons of tourists. At the moment I’m thinking our first B&B may be in Ravello. Apparently very helpful English speaking owners. Possibilities from here include Pompeii, Herculaneum, The Greek Temples, Vesuvius, Villa Cimbrone, The path of the Gods. 3-4 nights?
And I am getting more comfortable with the idea of Rome as I found a nice B&B outside of Rome to stay. It’s 45 minutes on the train into Rome, and the B&B owners will hook you up with a tour guide. I’ve decided this is important to me, I seem to learn so much better from an actual person. 3-4 nights?
I have 7 available nights from landing at FCO to our booking in Monticchellio, so we can stay 3 nights each at these two places and stay one night in Orvieto on the way to Monticchiello, or spend all 7 nights in these two spots and just stop at Orvieto (or someplace else) along the way
4 nights in Monticchiello to do Stu Dudley’s driving tour of Tuscany and visit hill towns, abbeys, monasteries etc.
That would leave me with 4 more nights to spend somewhere. I’m thinking we might like to explore Parco Nazionale Gran Sasso or Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibilini, but where to stay? Norcia?
Dec 1st, 2009, 01:34 PM
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I have been to many of the areas you are considering. I think Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast were my top favorites. Ravello was amazing and the food was so fresh and delicious. Pompeii, Herculaneum, The Greek Temples, Vesuvius all were very interesting . . . but my favorite part was just strolling through all the little seaside towns and eating the amazing food (fresh pasta - fresh fish - and those tomatoes). The walks along the coast are jaw dropping. Don't forget the Limoncello -- the best in the world.
Have a great trip!
Have a great trip!
Dec 1st, 2009, 03:39 PM
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I agree with franco about the food at Taverna Castelluccio. It's one of my favorites in Italy. I also love the Piano Grande, Norcia and the area.
If you want to explore and hike the area, I recommend staying in Norica or Spoleto or a nearby agriturismo. There isn't much in Castellucio- just the great Taverna, rustic atmosphere and beautiful views. It is a good base if you just want to hike, eat and sleep. But if you want something more, I think Norica might be a better base.
I think you will find your 3-4 days will go by very fast in each location you have chosen to visit. If it were my trip, I would eliminate either Rome or Amalfi and add those days to your other stops.
If you want to explore and hike the area, I recommend staying in Norica or Spoleto or a nearby agriturismo. There isn't much in Castellucio- just the great Taverna, rustic atmosphere and beautiful views. It is a good base if you just want to hike, eat and sleep. But if you want something more, I think Norica might be a better base.
I think you will find your 3-4 days will go by very fast in each location you have chosen to visit. If it were my trip, I would eliminate either Rome or Amalfi and add those days to your other stops.
Dec 1st, 2009, 09:06 PM
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Monticchiello is nice, but a very tiny town with only two restaurants, one fairly expensive. Pienza, which is a few miles from there might be a better alternative. We have stayed many times at the Piccolo hotel, a small family owned hotel, and found it very convenient as you can park there. It has gorgeous views. You are across the street from town and can walk to quite a few restaurants. Also if the B&B that you are referring to near Ravello is the Punta Civita, we have also stayed there frequently and the views and owners can't be beat.
Dec 1st, 2009, 11:38 PM
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My husband and I have been to many of the places you have mentioned.
My advice is like many others buy or check out at the library books about Italy or specifically certain areas such as Tuscany.
Something that stood out to me and caught my eye, was where you are staying in Rome-45 minutes out. After going to Rome 3 times, I would highly recommend you stay in Rome, there are many great apartments or B & B's in Rome.
You can take the train or a shuttle into Rome from the airport. It's pretty easy to get around Rome. Rome at night is awesome.There are wonderful fountains and gardens there to be enjoyed.And the "RUINS".....
I also think you are worrying too much about speaking Italian.
I think you will find more people who speak English than you might think.If you can learn the greetings/salutations. And are kind and have a great sense of humor,the Italians are very forgiving and even understand my sign language.
Enjoy your trip. I am jealous. Warm Regards Sally
My advice is like many others buy or check out at the library books about Italy or specifically certain areas such as Tuscany.
Something that stood out to me and caught my eye, was where you are staying in Rome-45 minutes out. After going to Rome 3 times, I would highly recommend you stay in Rome, there are many great apartments or B & B's in Rome.
You can take the train or a shuttle into Rome from the airport. It's pretty easy to get around Rome. Rome at night is awesome.There are wonderful fountains and gardens there to be enjoyed.And the "RUINS".....
I also think you are worrying too much about speaking Italian.
I think you will find more people who speak English than you might think.If you can learn the greetings/salutations. And are kind and have a great sense of humor,the Italians are very forgiving and even understand my sign language.
Enjoy your trip. I am jealous. Warm Regards Sally
Dec 2nd, 2009, 08:45 AM
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Lots of good thoughts here, thanks!
Packed ~ the reason we are staying near Monticchiello is because we want to stay at Terre di Nano in a self catering house. We may eat there the first night (they will cook for you if they know ahead) and we don’t mind driving to restaurants. If I’m lucky my husband will let me cook, he always says he doesn’t want to wash dishes on vacation, but I’m always itching to cook something with local products when we stay at a self catering. And yes, Punta Civita is the B&B I’m looking at, great to know you like it so much. What day trips did you do from there? Where did you eat?
I was wrong on my dates for Terre di Nano, we can actually check in a day earlier than I thought for 5 nights, so that cuts back more on the Amalfi/Rome time. I don’t think I want to leave either of them out, as the next time we visit Italy it would be in the very northern parts.
At the moment I think I would allocate more time in Ravello, as I’m anticipating that we wouldn’t get there until early afternoon, would probably take a short nap and then maybe check out Villa Cimbrone, I think it’s close by.
How much time to allocate for Pompeii and Herculaneum? Should we do both? Should we do one on the way from Ravello to Casperia, or do they need more time? ( it should be about a 3 1/2 hr trip between the 2 B&B's)
Sallym808 ~ I thought about taking the train from the airport when we arrived and staying in Rome first, but then when we picked up our rental car, we would drive south to Ravello, but our next leg north to Monticchiello would be a 5 hour drive. Seems to make more sense to me to start at our furthest point south and then work our way north, with the stop in Casperia for a few nights on the way to Monticchiello. Also, we really are not city people. Where we live the loudest noises we hear at night are tree frogs, owls, cows and an occasional dog. We’ve been to England twice, and never been to London, and to France once and didn’t go to Paris. I’m lobbying my husband for some time in Rome because of the incredible history, but I’m just not convinced we want to stay in Rome. We really want to see Rome with a guide, at least the first day.
I’m not so much worried about speaking Italian, we have been to Switzerland, France and Germany more than once, and since most people seem to speak some English, we have never really had a problem. The disappointment we had was at a Castle in Germany that was quite rural and all of the signage and displays and the introductory movie were in German. I realize that probably won’t happen in Rome, but I do worry at times in more remote areas what we would do if there was a medical emergency or something.
Franco and Zoecat ~ I looked at the website for Taverna Castelluccio, and if I understand Babelfish’s translation correctly, we would have to stay there 2 nights to have a dinner & breakfast package. I was hoping we could stay there just one night, and in Norcia the other nights. I did email them to find out if one night was possible.
Has anyone been to the Ntional Parks? Walked, hiked there?
Packed ~ the reason we are staying near Monticchiello is because we want to stay at Terre di Nano in a self catering house. We may eat there the first night (they will cook for you if they know ahead) and we don’t mind driving to restaurants. If I’m lucky my husband will let me cook, he always says he doesn’t want to wash dishes on vacation, but I’m always itching to cook something with local products when we stay at a self catering. And yes, Punta Civita is the B&B I’m looking at, great to know you like it so much. What day trips did you do from there? Where did you eat?
I was wrong on my dates for Terre di Nano, we can actually check in a day earlier than I thought for 5 nights, so that cuts back more on the Amalfi/Rome time. I don’t think I want to leave either of them out, as the next time we visit Italy it would be in the very northern parts.
At the moment I think I would allocate more time in Ravello, as I’m anticipating that we wouldn’t get there until early afternoon, would probably take a short nap and then maybe check out Villa Cimbrone, I think it’s close by.
How much time to allocate for Pompeii and Herculaneum? Should we do both? Should we do one on the way from Ravello to Casperia, or do they need more time? ( it should be about a 3 1/2 hr trip between the 2 B&B's)
Sallym808 ~ I thought about taking the train from the airport when we arrived and staying in Rome first, but then when we picked up our rental car, we would drive south to Ravello, but our next leg north to Monticchiello would be a 5 hour drive. Seems to make more sense to me to start at our furthest point south and then work our way north, with the stop in Casperia for a few nights on the way to Monticchiello. Also, we really are not city people. Where we live the loudest noises we hear at night are tree frogs, owls, cows and an occasional dog. We’ve been to England twice, and never been to London, and to France once and didn’t go to Paris. I’m lobbying my husband for some time in Rome because of the incredible history, but I’m just not convinced we want to stay in Rome. We really want to see Rome with a guide, at least the first day.
I’m not so much worried about speaking Italian, we have been to Switzerland, France and Germany more than once, and since most people seem to speak some English, we have never really had a problem. The disappointment we had was at a Castle in Germany that was quite rural and all of the signage and displays and the introductory movie were in German. I realize that probably won’t happen in Rome, but I do worry at times in more remote areas what we would do if there was a medical emergency or something.
Franco and Zoecat ~ I looked at the website for Taverna Castelluccio, and if I understand Babelfish’s translation correctly, we would have to stay there 2 nights to have a dinner & breakfast package. I was hoping we could stay there just one night, and in Norcia the other nights. I did email them to find out if one night was possible.
Has anyone been to the Ntional Parks? Walked, hiked there?
Dec 2nd, 2009, 12:32 PM
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Ravello - there is a sweet hike but rather vertical of course from Amalfi - to me a dreamy old town right under Ravello - up to Ravello - a paved path that first goes thru vineyards, orchards, etc. up a ravine before a steep stepped stairs to Ravello - going up is strenous - i took this path up to Ravello and then walked back down on the workers' road thru the vineayrds that carpet the Amalfi Coast just under Ravello - it was autumn and workers were toiling in the vineyards - the shimmering blue sea was far below - it seemed so so surreal. So if ambulatory and into walking, hiking check those paths out.
After many trips to Italy it seems to me that though Italians may speak a tad less English than in France, Germany and especially Switzerland i do not speak any Italian besides Caio and never have had a problem. That said do not expect the impeccable information such as in train stations that you easily find in those other countries but you should not have any problems IME with not speaking Italian. As always a few basic words help break the language barrier.
After many trips to Italy it seems to me that though Italians may speak a tad less English than in France, Germany and especially Switzerland i do not speak any Italian besides Caio and never have had a problem. That said do not expect the impeccable information such as in train stations that you easily find in those other countries but you should not have any problems IME with not speaking Italian. As always a few basic words help break the language barrier.
Dec 2nd, 2009, 01:16 PM
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I have been reading several accounts of the "steps" and verticality around Ravello......450 +/- steps to Atrani..............will have to work on that!
If we stay at the place in Casperia, we may be able to book a "beginner's Italian lesson" which I think would be fun. It's one thing to read words in Italian, totally different to hear them spoken. I ordered "Eating and Drinking in Italy" a restaurant translation aid so I don't eat Octopus or worse.
If we stay at the place in Casperia, we may be able to book a "beginner's Italian lesson" which I think would be fun. It's one thing to read words in Italian, totally different to hear them spoken. I ordered "Eating and Drinking in Italy" a restaurant translation aid so I don't eat Octopus or worse.
Dec 3rd, 2009, 04:15 PM
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If you haven't made your decision, yet, can I make a pitch for Le Marche? We were there a couple of years ago and found it magical. Medieval history and art for sure (loved Urbino!!) but the countryside was breathtaking. If Tuscany has hills, Le Marche has mountains. And the people were so friendly . (Maybe 'cause they don't have to deal with the hordes or tourists.) You've mentioned National Parks and hiking a couple of times and although it's not what I would choose to do on vacation 
I can't help but think the area offers several options. I don't have the words to describe all we experienced but this website's images are similar to what we saw when we drove the area. (I'm not endorsing the villa - haven't been there - but it sure is tempting!)
http://www.villasanraffaello.com/gallery.html
I can't help but think the area offers several options. I don't have the words to describe all we experienced but this website's images are similar to what we saw when we drove the area. (I'm not endorsing the villa - haven't been there - but it sure is tempting!) http://www.villasanraffaello.com/gallery.html
Dec 3rd, 2009, 04:52 PM
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I've been in the Monte Sibillini, but I am getting confused about your trip. In the fall, you are going to go to Tuscany AND the Amalfi Coast (even though you describe yourselves as not "beach people") and are looking to go to another destination as well to get in some hiking?
I think Franco is right that the best destination is Umbria. The Piano Grande is a fantastic sight, hiking in the monte is marvelous.
You might check out the idea of staying in Spoleto and doing day trips, but if you would really like to hike, look at some of these accommodations near the the national park.
http://www.casalenelparco.com/e/index.htm
http://www.cortebelvoir.com/charmguesthouse/
http://www.norciavacanze.it/english/hotel_norcia.asp
Or you might enjoy visiting the parklands of Monte Subasio, also in Umbria, immersed in lots of interesting, well-preserved Umbrian towns:
http://www.parks.it/parco.monte.subasio/Egal.html
I think Franco is right that the best destination is Umbria. The Piano Grande is a fantastic sight, hiking in the monte is marvelous.
You might check out the idea of staying in Spoleto and doing day trips, but if you would really like to hike, look at some of these accommodations near the the national park.
http://www.casalenelparco.com/e/index.htm
http://www.cortebelvoir.com/charmguesthouse/
http://www.norciavacanze.it/english/hotel_norcia.asp
Or you might enjoy visiting the parklands of Monte Subasio, also in Umbria, immersed in lots of interesting, well-preserved Umbrian towns:
http://www.parks.it/parco.monte.subasio/Egal.html
Dec 3rd, 2009, 04:54 PM
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Hi Toni ~ No, we haven't decided for sure what mountain area will be the best after out stay at Monticchiello. At the moment I'm thinking Norcia, but haven't made up my mind yet.
What a wonderful website Villa San Raffaello has! I have bookmarked it. Norcia and Sarnano are kind of on opposite sides of the mountain from each other.
I'm going to Borders tomorrow with my 30% off coupon and sit down and do some reading!
What a wonderful website Villa San Raffaello has! I have bookmarked it. Norcia and Sarnano are kind of on opposite sides of the mountain from each other.
I'm going to Borders tomorrow with my 30% off coupon and sit down and do some reading!
Dec 4th, 2009, 04:57 AM
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Just a restaurant tip: on a night when you don't feel like cooking, visit La Porta in Monticchiello. They have a young, very creative chef who is doing things with local cuisine that you will not find anywhere else. The wine list is exceptional and the hostess speaks lovely English. Also, she told us that those who pay in cash (vs. credit cards) get a discount. We ate there twice on our last visit to the area in October.
