Tuppy's trip - Turkey & Rhodes, via Japan
Jun 11th, 2008, 07:27 PM
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Tuppy's trip - Turkey & Rhodes, via Japan
Hi there
If that title sounds confusing - well, it isn't for an Aussie seeking to use frequent flyer points!
We had frequent flyer flights from Tokyo to London, then on to Turkey...so we arranged a flight from Queensland to Tokyo (Qantas).
Arranged to travel on the bullet train directly to Kyoto, stay 4 full days, then train back to Tokyo for 1 night before BA flight to London and then onto Istanbul.
The whole bullet train (Shinkansen) was a marvellous experience. Bought a JR pass prior to travel and as soon as we arrived at Narita Airport we headed straight to the downstairs station where we exchanged our voucher for a JR 7 day pass and our tickets for the train.
The accuracy of this train astounded us. You stand in a numbered, designated spot that matches the Car number on your ticket. Train pulls in, exactly on time, door for your carriage exactly matching the boundaries of your designated spot. Train departs exactly on time! Enjoyable journey to Kyoto and then to our pre-booked hotel, the Hotel Nikko Princess.
We really can't praise this hotel, more particularly its staff, highly enough. Nowhere else in the world have we expereinced such exemplary service. Accommodation is roomy, bathroom amenties sensational!
We found Kyoto a magical experience. As the ancient former capital, many of the original temples, shrines and palaces are well maintained, all housed in exquisite, peaceful gardens.
We had dinner at an interesting traditional, tiny restaurant at the recommendation of a fellow traveller where we sat, legs in a little "pit" in individual booths, overlooking the chef's station, where 6 courses were prepared and bought to us. We then strolled around the Gion district and even spotted a geisha-in-training dashing between two tea houses - just beautiful! Ate dinner at the Hotel's tepenyaki restaurant and it was simply spectacular! Another evening we strolled to the station and ate a little place there.
The Philosopher's Walk was pretty and we were fortunate at one temple to witness a traditional wedding, with bride complete with white domed headdress and unmarried girlfriends in colourful kiminos.
We only used taxis twice - to and from station, but again, service was warm and welcoming, with taxis, like everything else in Kyoto, spotlessly clean.
Every shopping purchase here is carefully, almost lovingly wrapped and presented. Intricate origami-decorated notebooks, those wonderful handkerchiefs that are big enough to use as scarves and bookmarks with delicate watercolours adorning them.
Food everywhere is beautifully displayed and presented, with an amazing array of foods available. Every purchase is carefully selected and packaged, together with pre-moistened towellettes and implements. Everyone is eager to assist and very friendly.
Then, back to Tokyo for a night at the Century Southern Tower and a birthday dinner (mine). A delicious dinner on the 21st floor restaurant, with the creme brulee decorated with chocolate "Happy Birthday" and the date. Photograph taken, then presented to us at the end of the meal in a lovely cardboard frame!
As Australia's koalas are well known and loved in Japan, I took 6 plush versions of the little creatures to give away as "thanks"....I should have taken a suitcase full.
Next morning back to Narita Airport for our 12 hour flight to London, then onto Turkey.
If that title sounds confusing - well, it isn't for an Aussie seeking to use frequent flyer points!
We had frequent flyer flights from Tokyo to London, then on to Turkey...so we arranged a flight from Queensland to Tokyo (Qantas).
Arranged to travel on the bullet train directly to Kyoto, stay 4 full days, then train back to Tokyo for 1 night before BA flight to London and then onto Istanbul.
The whole bullet train (Shinkansen) was a marvellous experience. Bought a JR pass prior to travel and as soon as we arrived at Narita Airport we headed straight to the downstairs station where we exchanged our voucher for a JR 7 day pass and our tickets for the train.
The accuracy of this train astounded us. You stand in a numbered, designated spot that matches the Car number on your ticket. Train pulls in, exactly on time, door for your carriage exactly matching the boundaries of your designated spot. Train departs exactly on time! Enjoyable journey to Kyoto and then to our pre-booked hotel, the Hotel Nikko Princess.
We really can't praise this hotel, more particularly its staff, highly enough. Nowhere else in the world have we expereinced such exemplary service. Accommodation is roomy, bathroom amenties sensational!
We found Kyoto a magical experience. As the ancient former capital, many of the original temples, shrines and palaces are well maintained, all housed in exquisite, peaceful gardens.
We had dinner at an interesting traditional, tiny restaurant at the recommendation of a fellow traveller where we sat, legs in a little "pit" in individual booths, overlooking the chef's station, where 6 courses were prepared and bought to us. We then strolled around the Gion district and even spotted a geisha-in-training dashing between two tea houses - just beautiful! Ate dinner at the Hotel's tepenyaki restaurant and it was simply spectacular! Another evening we strolled to the station and ate a little place there.
The Philosopher's Walk was pretty and we were fortunate at one temple to witness a traditional wedding, with bride complete with white domed headdress and unmarried girlfriends in colourful kiminos.
We only used taxis twice - to and from station, but again, service was warm and welcoming, with taxis, like everything else in Kyoto, spotlessly clean.
Every shopping purchase here is carefully, almost lovingly wrapped and presented. Intricate origami-decorated notebooks, those wonderful handkerchiefs that are big enough to use as scarves and bookmarks with delicate watercolours adorning them.
Food everywhere is beautifully displayed and presented, with an amazing array of foods available. Every purchase is carefully selected and packaged, together with pre-moistened towellettes and implements. Everyone is eager to assist and very friendly.
Then, back to Tokyo for a night at the Century Southern Tower and a birthday dinner (mine). A delicious dinner on the 21st floor restaurant, with the creme brulee decorated with chocolate "Happy Birthday" and the date. Photograph taken, then presented to us at the end of the meal in a lovely cardboard frame!
As Australia's koalas are well known and loved in Japan, I took 6 plush versions of the little creatures to give away as "thanks"....I should have taken a suitcase full.
Next morning back to Narita Airport for our 12 hour flight to London, then onto Turkey.
Jun 11th, 2008, 08:08 PM
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Flight to London was excellent, onward flight ok.
As we were to join an 8 day bus trip from Gallipoli to Marmaris two days later, Neon Tours had their driver collect us from the airport and drive us to the hotel we had chosen to stay at for those first two days, the Fehmi Bey.
A warm greeting from the night clerk awaited us and we went straight to our room, feeling very tired. We stepped out onto the large balcony just to see the wonderful view of the well-lit Blue Mosque and then...off to bed.
Early risers, we only saw one other couple at breakfast on both mornings. Breakfast was very good, with the usual olives, cheese, tomatoes and breads. Scrambled eggs and hot filled breads were also available, together with a bowl of fruit and delicious yoghurt.
The hotel is very clean and comfortable, but our room (401) was unfortunately beside the elevator and the ventilation "shaft" for the bathroom was just that - a large shaft in the ceiling which opened out directly beside the breakfast bar on the balcony. As late-night guests returned to the hotel to enjoy a drink on the balcony, it sounded as though they were partying in our bathroom! The room next to ours was being worked on during the day, complete with cement mixing, plastering and hammering and with no chairs available, it wasn't possible to utilise the balcony.
However, the hotel is well placed for strolling around Sultanahmet and we enjoyed our explorations of the city.
Do ensure you go to the Cistern - it's an absolutely masterpiece of construction and ingenuity.
I loved the array of breads and cheeses available. For good coffee, complete with chocolate spoons and a little bowl of chocolate covered coffee beans, Magnaura Cafe on the pretty tree-lined road into the Main Entrance to the bazaar is a great place to sit and observe.
We took our only taxi in Istanbul at this time and went across the Galata Bridge to a family owned and restaurant for dinner. Taxi driver had difficulty finding it, so parked nearby where he thought it might be, told us to stay in the taxi and ran off to consult a local. Back he came, ushered us from the taxi and saw us across the busy road to the front of the building where the restaurant is located. Thoroughly courteous and helpful, he was a delightful man.
After two days, we are collected by Neon Tours and transferred to the Holiday Inn Hotel for the start of our bus tour.
As we were to join an 8 day bus trip from Gallipoli to Marmaris two days later, Neon Tours had their driver collect us from the airport and drive us to the hotel we had chosen to stay at for those first two days, the Fehmi Bey.
A warm greeting from the night clerk awaited us and we went straight to our room, feeling very tired. We stepped out onto the large balcony just to see the wonderful view of the well-lit Blue Mosque and then...off to bed.
Early risers, we only saw one other couple at breakfast on both mornings. Breakfast was very good, with the usual olives, cheese, tomatoes and breads. Scrambled eggs and hot filled breads were also available, together with a bowl of fruit and delicious yoghurt.
The hotel is very clean and comfortable, but our room (401) was unfortunately beside the elevator and the ventilation "shaft" for the bathroom was just that - a large shaft in the ceiling which opened out directly beside the breakfast bar on the balcony. As late-night guests returned to the hotel to enjoy a drink on the balcony, it sounded as though they were partying in our bathroom! The room next to ours was being worked on during the day, complete with cement mixing, plastering and hammering and with no chairs available, it wasn't possible to utilise the balcony.
However, the hotel is well placed for strolling around Sultanahmet and we enjoyed our explorations of the city.
Do ensure you go to the Cistern - it's an absolutely masterpiece of construction and ingenuity.
I loved the array of breads and cheeses available. For good coffee, complete with chocolate spoons and a little bowl of chocolate covered coffee beans, Magnaura Cafe on the pretty tree-lined road into the Main Entrance to the bazaar is a great place to sit and observe.
We took our only taxi in Istanbul at this time and went across the Galata Bridge to a family owned and restaurant for dinner. Taxi driver had difficulty finding it, so parked nearby where he thought it might be, told us to stay in the taxi and ran off to consult a local. Back he came, ushered us from the taxi and saw us across the busy road to the front of the building where the restaurant is located. Thoroughly courteous and helpful, he was a delightful man.
After two days, we are collected by Neon Tours and transferred to the Holiday Inn Hotel for the start of our bus tour.
Jun 11th, 2008, 11:36 PM
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Nice report. Thank you.
> As Australia's koalas are well known and loved in Japan, I took 6 plush versions of the little creatures to give away as "thanks"....
I think that's a very nice and thoughtful thing to do especially in Japan.
> As Australia's koalas are well known and loved in Japan, I took 6 plush versions of the little creatures to give away as "thanks"....
I think that's a very nice and thoughtful thing to do especially in Japan.
Jun 12th, 2008, 03:59 PM
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There is another Tuppy???
No, historytraveler, I'm from sunny Queensland.
Day 1 of Neon Tours "Western Turkey" tours. The Holiday Inn is a very comfortable hotel, though rooms are very small. Our guide Atlay takes us to the usual sites, Blue Mosque, etc., but we forgo the trip to the Grand Bazaar (having traversed same the day before) and head, with another couple, for our favourite coffee shop for delicious coffee served with chocolate spoons.
Most of us dined on pizza that night at the hotel - this Holiday Inn is fairly isolated. Another couple on the tour decided to eat at a small place "down the road" and another purchased bread, cheese and a "cooked chook". The hotel diners were the bus inhabitants NOT ill the next day!!!!!!!
Gallipoli- and to our small group of Aussies and Kiwis, memorable and precious.
Our ferry trip across the Dardanelles interesting. Our tour coach was the last to board--and the boarding ramp of the ferry could not be held in a vertical position else it connected with the rear end of our coach. As my husband and I were seated in the back seat, we quickly left the coach to scramble to the side of the ferry!
That night at dinner one of our number relayed the tale of how at Gallipoli, a young lad had charged he and another male member of our group 5 Turkish lira to enter the only toilet. Very enterprising...the lad sat outside at an old card table, with a few packets of well-thumbed ticket books.
Next 2 days - Kusadasi
Our visit to Troy was as expected. Really, not much there, but we were beginning to realise how fortunate we were in our guide.
Atlay is a Professor of Archaeology and his knowledge and passion for each site was wonderful.
However, our visit also this day to the ancient Greek city of Pergamum, was my favourite site. It is truly magical and contains the world's steepest amphitheatre.
The following day we visited Ephesus and St. Mary's House. I had long dreamed of seeing Ephesus and was not disappointed. At St. Mary's House I purchased a postcard for a dear friend who was thrilled to receive her postcard, complete with a stamp and postmark reserved purely for that little area.
Next day - Pamukkale for our vist to Aphrodisias which was a most fascinating area, with spectacular views. Then on to the calcium cliffs and pools of Pamukkale.
Next day - Marmaris via Hierapolis
Again, our guide's intimate knowledge of this site spurred us on - we opted to take the long route and walked in excess of 8 kilometres in 32 degree heat - and it was magical!
Our tour ended at Marmaris where I quickly bought a swimsuit so I could "dip" in the emerald waters.
We enjoyed a farewell dinner with our new friends, exchanged photographs and laughed about the "no pressure" leather and carpet outlets we had been taken to.
Tomorrow morning we take the ferry to Rhodes.
No, historytraveler, I'm from sunny Queensland.
Day 1 of Neon Tours "Western Turkey" tours. The Holiday Inn is a very comfortable hotel, though rooms are very small. Our guide Atlay takes us to the usual sites, Blue Mosque, etc., but we forgo the trip to the Grand Bazaar (having traversed same the day before) and head, with another couple, for our favourite coffee shop for delicious coffee served with chocolate spoons.
Most of us dined on pizza that night at the hotel - this Holiday Inn is fairly isolated. Another couple on the tour decided to eat at a small place "down the road" and another purchased bread, cheese and a "cooked chook". The hotel diners were the bus inhabitants NOT ill the next day!!!!!!!
Gallipoli- and to our small group of Aussies and Kiwis, memorable and precious.
Our ferry trip across the Dardanelles interesting. Our tour coach was the last to board--and the boarding ramp of the ferry could not be held in a vertical position else it connected with the rear end of our coach. As my husband and I were seated in the back seat, we quickly left the coach to scramble to the side of the ferry!
That night at dinner one of our number relayed the tale of how at Gallipoli, a young lad had charged he and another male member of our group 5 Turkish lira to enter the only toilet. Very enterprising...the lad sat outside at an old card table, with a few packets of well-thumbed ticket books.
Next 2 days - Kusadasi
Our visit to Troy was as expected. Really, not much there, but we were beginning to realise how fortunate we were in our guide.
Atlay is a Professor of Archaeology and his knowledge and passion for each site was wonderful.
However, our visit also this day to the ancient Greek city of Pergamum, was my favourite site. It is truly magical and contains the world's steepest amphitheatre.
The following day we visited Ephesus and St. Mary's House. I had long dreamed of seeing Ephesus and was not disappointed. At St. Mary's House I purchased a postcard for a dear friend who was thrilled to receive her postcard, complete with a stamp and postmark reserved purely for that little area.
Next day - Pamukkale for our vist to Aphrodisias which was a most fascinating area, with spectacular views. Then on to the calcium cliffs and pools of Pamukkale.
Next day - Marmaris via Hierapolis
Again, our guide's intimate knowledge of this site spurred us on - we opted to take the long route and walked in excess of 8 kilometres in 32 degree heat - and it was magical!
Our tour ended at Marmaris where I quickly bought a swimsuit so I could "dip" in the emerald waters.
We enjoyed a farewell dinner with our new friends, exchanged photographs and laughed about the "no pressure" leather and carpet outlets we had been taken to.
Tomorrow morning we take the ferry to Rhodes.
Jun 12th, 2008, 04:22 PM
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We arrive in Rhodes to spend 6 nights at the Camelot Hotel which is a small boutique establishment owned and run by the warm and wonderful Nina.
After a few aborted attempts to find the hotel, a shopkeeper escorts us past a small alley....and a short suitcase bumping-over-stones stretch later, we receive a warm welcome from Nina.
All 3 available rooms are on a mezzanine area which overlooks the pretty courtyard below. We have booked the "deluxe suite" that contains a queen bed, small but well equipped kitchen area and small bathroom and small terrace.
Breakfast is served in a long, arched room - and what breakfasts. Nina serves a variety of breads and pastries each day, together with whatever is in season to accompany them. Waffles with thick greek yoghurt, with her mother's grape conserve drizzled over is well, fabulous. This is not a place for the carb-challenged!
We loved our stay on Rhodes. We walked everywhere and were fortunate to be there at the "Celebration of the Knights" which involved jousting, eating& drinking, sword displays, horse displays, knights in armour parades, eating and drinking, together with performances of ancient music and dance....and more eating and drinking.
We ate the best mussels we've ever tasted, enjoyed fabulous fresh seafood meals (and that's saying something for a Queenslander),swam in the cold sapphire sea and ate fresh, juicy peaches on the beach (read - pebbles - no sand).
We took a bus to Lindos (accompanied by what we couldn't manage to eat at breakfast and packed by Nina) and scaled the heights there to gaze out over the sea.
Another day we took the ferry to the little island of Simi and after visiting the monestary and little church there, we fortified ourselves with cheese pastries still made in an ancient oven, before we climbed the hundreds of stairs to the tiny village at the top of the hill. Spectacular.
The colour of the water is truly beautiful, particularly where it quickly changes from deep sapphire to almost irridescent green around the myriads of tiny inlets on small islands along the way to Simi.
On our last night we had a superb "seafood platter" at our favourite fish restaurant. The owner presented us with one of the georgeous jugs in which their white wine is served, to remind us, he said, that we must come back.
Tomorrow - ferry back to Marmaris, transfer to Dalaman Airport for a Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul and a connection to Kayseri, then onto Cappadocia.
After a few aborted attempts to find the hotel, a shopkeeper escorts us past a small alley....and a short suitcase bumping-over-stones stretch later, we receive a warm welcome from Nina.
All 3 available rooms are on a mezzanine area which overlooks the pretty courtyard below. We have booked the "deluxe suite" that contains a queen bed, small but well equipped kitchen area and small bathroom and small terrace.
Breakfast is served in a long, arched room - and what breakfasts. Nina serves a variety of breads and pastries each day, together with whatever is in season to accompany them. Waffles with thick greek yoghurt, with her mother's grape conserve drizzled over is well, fabulous. This is not a place for the carb-challenged!
We loved our stay on Rhodes. We walked everywhere and were fortunate to be there at the "Celebration of the Knights" which involved jousting, eating& drinking, sword displays, horse displays, knights in armour parades, eating and drinking, together with performances of ancient music and dance....and more eating and drinking.
We ate the best mussels we've ever tasted, enjoyed fabulous fresh seafood meals (and that's saying something for a Queenslander),swam in the cold sapphire sea and ate fresh, juicy peaches on the beach (read - pebbles - no sand).
We took a bus to Lindos (accompanied by what we couldn't manage to eat at breakfast and packed by Nina) and scaled the heights there to gaze out over the sea.
Another day we took the ferry to the little island of Simi and after visiting the monestary and little church there, we fortified ourselves with cheese pastries still made in an ancient oven, before we climbed the hundreds of stairs to the tiny village at the top of the hill. Spectacular.
The colour of the water is truly beautiful, particularly where it quickly changes from deep sapphire to almost irridescent green around the myriads of tiny inlets on small islands along the way to Simi.
On our last night we had a superb "seafood platter" at our favourite fish restaurant. The owner presented us with one of the georgeous jugs in which their white wine is served, to remind us, he said, that we must come back.
Tomorrow - ferry back to Marmaris, transfer to Dalaman Airport for a Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul and a connection to Kayseri, then onto Cappadocia.
Jun 13th, 2008, 03:06 PM
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Great trip report! You have a knack for providing the flavor of the trip, not just the facts. I hate coffee, but even I would give it a try if it was served with chocolate spoons. 
Looking especially forward to your Cappadocia notes!
Looking especially forward to your Cappadocia notes!
Jun 14th, 2008, 04:43 PM
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Thank you MikeBuckley. Much appreciated.
The afternoon ferry from Rhodes to Marmaris - and a representative of ProperTravel was waiting to transport us to Dalaman Airport for our Turkish Airlines flights to Instanbul with a connecting flight to Kayseri, where another representative met is and transported us to our cave hotel.
At this point I must say all arrangements for the Cappadocia portion of our trip were made with ProperTravel and none disappointed.
...and to Turkish Airlines. We enjoyed two extremely efficient and pleasant flights with Turkish Airlines. The food was good and the in-flight service excellent. Turkish Airport Security Officers are very strict, but very polite. Who could want more?
Because of one delayed flight time and the driving distance from Kayseri to Urgup, we did not arrive at our hotel until 1.15a.m. Though very tired, to stand at the base of this amazing cave hotel and peer up and up through subtle and subdued lighting to the top of the caves, framed by an immense, dark sky, was just amazing!
Next morning we enjoyed a delicious breakfast and were later collected by our guide for the next two days, Mehmet Kunt.
Mehmet and his driver, Murat, (who kept our little van spotless and looked after us so well), took us on a hike through the Valley, viewing various cave dwellings and churches along the way. Brilliant colours still show clearly the unsophisticated, but reverential teaching, through these diverse paintings, the stories of the origins of the Christian religion. Much later, it was interesting to see how later religions utilised, or covered these paintings and replaced them with their own teachings.
After a long, but enjoyable hike throughout the valley, with a pretty stream meandering beside us, Mehmet led us to our lunch spot. This little restaurant has three low "platforms" built out over the stream. Each is adorned, Ottoman style, with low benches and many cushions. We had an absolutely delicious lunch, accompanied by a little local wine. This area remains one of the highlights of our time in Cappadocia.
But...there are so many. We walked through the Rose Valley, viewed more cave dwellings and, bent double, snaked our way through winding tunnels. In one very large underground area, we walked down six levels! Animals were kept here, wine was trod and made here, olive oil was pressed here.....and here in this place, a small community routinely lived for extended periods. Air shafts provide adequate air and we marvelled at the ingenious method of rolling huge granite wheels across various openings to thwart pursuing tormentors.
That night we took Mehmet's advice and dined at the fantastic "Ziggy's" adjacant to our hotel. Can't recommend this Cafe highly enough. Wonderful people, delicious food and our first taste, in a shared dessert, of Pekmez (a grape molasses). Bought a large bottle home - yum!
The following day we were up very early, excitedly dressing for our hot-air balloon ride with Kappadocia Balloons.
What an experience! So beautiful, so peaceful, floating over fields of wildflowers, interspersed with my favourite; the red poppy. Our balloonist was Kyllie and she ensured that, throughout the flight, everyone in the basket enjoyed a "front-end" view. As we descended just prior to landing, we passed over a very small village. Of course, dogs barked, but the local children waved enthusiastically. One resident however, a very old man who stood outside his small house,stood brandishing a broom and an upraised clenched fist. I don't know what he shouted, but he was obviously sick of hot-air balloons and tourists; in equal measure!
Soon after, our balloonist manouvered our balloon to landing - doing so by setting the basket down directly onto the flat-bed truck used to transport it. Now that's impressive!
After the flight we, enjoyed cherry juice and champagne and cake and received our "certificates" - such fun.
Later that morning we were again collected from our hotel by Mehmet and Murat and off we went....to the fairy chimneys. We walked through ancient dwellings, marvelled at the monastary in the rock. Lunch that day was in the town of Goreme, at Dibek. Up the stairs of a traditional house, to a dining room where we again sat Ottoman style, with lovely windows framing views of the street below. This was the MOST wonderful food we ate. Freshly made, each course a taste sensation and complemented by little goblets of the owner's own wine. We enjoyed a stroll through the town. That afternoon we visited an ancient karavanseray and then bade our farewells to Mehmet and our driver, Murat. Mehmet is an absolute gentleman and we felt privileged to have been able to have him share his knowledge and pride of this unique part of the world with us.
That evening we enjoyed the "Whirling Dervish" event, also booked for us through ProperTravel. Now....this is a spiritual event....not a Whirling Dervish "show". Very solemn, performed with precision and dedication, it was a memorable event.
Next morning, after another delicious breakfast, we strolled back into Goreme to purchase a rather large supply of the most delicious dried figs, apricots, mulberries and plums, together with absolutely fresh almonds and walnuts. The citizens of this town were very friendly,courteous and patient with our lack of language skills.
We lunched at the delightful "Ziggy's" and walked back to the hotel for a short rest. The hotel manager had graciously acceded to our request for a late checkout and allowed us to stay in the room until 3p.m. After checkout, our transfer vehicle arrived and drove us back to Kayseri airport for our onward flight to Istanbul...and the last leg of our trip.
The afternoon ferry from Rhodes to Marmaris - and a representative of ProperTravel was waiting to transport us to Dalaman Airport for our Turkish Airlines flights to Instanbul with a connecting flight to Kayseri, where another representative met is and transported us to our cave hotel.
At this point I must say all arrangements for the Cappadocia portion of our trip were made with ProperTravel and none disappointed.
...and to Turkish Airlines. We enjoyed two extremely efficient and pleasant flights with Turkish Airlines. The food was good and the in-flight service excellent. Turkish Airport Security Officers are very strict, but very polite. Who could want more?
Because of one delayed flight time and the driving distance from Kayseri to Urgup, we did not arrive at our hotel until 1.15a.m. Though very tired, to stand at the base of this amazing cave hotel and peer up and up through subtle and subdued lighting to the top of the caves, framed by an immense, dark sky, was just amazing!
Next morning we enjoyed a delicious breakfast and were later collected by our guide for the next two days, Mehmet Kunt.
Mehmet and his driver, Murat, (who kept our little van spotless and looked after us so well), took us on a hike through the Valley, viewing various cave dwellings and churches along the way. Brilliant colours still show clearly the unsophisticated, but reverential teaching, through these diverse paintings, the stories of the origins of the Christian religion. Much later, it was interesting to see how later religions utilised, or covered these paintings and replaced them with their own teachings.
After a long, but enjoyable hike throughout the valley, with a pretty stream meandering beside us, Mehmet led us to our lunch spot. This little restaurant has three low "platforms" built out over the stream. Each is adorned, Ottoman style, with low benches and many cushions. We had an absolutely delicious lunch, accompanied by a little local wine. This area remains one of the highlights of our time in Cappadocia.
But...there are so many. We walked through the Rose Valley, viewed more cave dwellings and, bent double, snaked our way through winding tunnels. In one very large underground area, we walked down six levels! Animals were kept here, wine was trod and made here, olive oil was pressed here.....and here in this place, a small community routinely lived for extended periods. Air shafts provide adequate air and we marvelled at the ingenious method of rolling huge granite wheels across various openings to thwart pursuing tormentors.
That night we took Mehmet's advice and dined at the fantastic "Ziggy's" adjacant to our hotel. Can't recommend this Cafe highly enough. Wonderful people, delicious food and our first taste, in a shared dessert, of Pekmez (a grape molasses). Bought a large bottle home - yum!
The following day we were up very early, excitedly dressing for our hot-air balloon ride with Kappadocia Balloons.
What an experience! So beautiful, so peaceful, floating over fields of wildflowers, interspersed with my favourite; the red poppy. Our balloonist was Kyllie and she ensured that, throughout the flight, everyone in the basket enjoyed a "front-end" view. As we descended just prior to landing, we passed over a very small village. Of course, dogs barked, but the local children waved enthusiastically. One resident however, a very old man who stood outside his small house,stood brandishing a broom and an upraised clenched fist. I don't know what he shouted, but he was obviously sick of hot-air balloons and tourists; in equal measure!
Soon after, our balloonist manouvered our balloon to landing - doing so by setting the basket down directly onto the flat-bed truck used to transport it. Now that's impressive!
After the flight we, enjoyed cherry juice and champagne and cake and received our "certificates" - such fun.
Later that morning we were again collected from our hotel by Mehmet and Murat and off we went....to the fairy chimneys. We walked through ancient dwellings, marvelled at the monastary in the rock. Lunch that day was in the town of Goreme, at Dibek. Up the stairs of a traditional house, to a dining room where we again sat Ottoman style, with lovely windows framing views of the street below. This was the MOST wonderful food we ate. Freshly made, each course a taste sensation and complemented by little goblets of the owner's own wine. We enjoyed a stroll through the town. That afternoon we visited an ancient karavanseray and then bade our farewells to Mehmet and our driver, Murat. Mehmet is an absolute gentleman and we felt privileged to have been able to have him share his knowledge and pride of this unique part of the world with us.
That evening we enjoyed the "Whirling Dervish" event, also booked for us through ProperTravel. Now....this is a spiritual event....not a Whirling Dervish "show". Very solemn, performed with precision and dedication, it was a memorable event.
Next morning, after another delicious breakfast, we strolled back into Goreme to purchase a rather large supply of the most delicious dried figs, apricots, mulberries and plums, together with absolutely fresh almonds and walnuts. The citizens of this town were very friendly,courteous and patient with our lack of language skills.
We lunched at the delightful "Ziggy's" and walked back to the hotel for a short rest. The hotel manager had graciously acceded to our request for a late checkout and allowed us to stay in the room until 3p.m. After checkout, our transfer vehicle arrived and drove us back to Kayseri airport for our onward flight to Istanbul...and the last leg of our trip.
Jun 14th, 2008, 09:20 PM
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Tuppy:
Can you imagine what Kyoto looked like in 1946? It was totally spared from the carpet incendiary bombings as a result of a sercret agreement between the militant Japanese government and our Pacific Allied Command. (yes, you guys from Oz were involved also!..in fact, our "brother" regiment "next door" was the Australian King James regiment...named for King James Scotch, no less...what else, eh?).
I was there on leave in the spring of that year, and there was not a tourist in sight...still not allowed into the city...only locals and G.I.'s...I was enchanted by the Philosopher's Walk and all of the well kept temples throughoutthe lovely city(even had been maintained during the wartime years)
I returned last year to visit the location of my former base in Beppu, Kyushu (after 60+ years), and we spent a glorious week in a ryokan in Kyoto.
Also, we drove all through the western and central regions of Turkey a few years ago...so I followed your post very closely.
Here are some selected scanned Turkey pics from 1995-8 (pre-digital), and some of my Kyoto pix from last year, You just might enjoy them.
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuarttower/ScenesOfTurkey
http://tinyurl.com/36dkgh
Stu T.
Can you imagine what Kyoto looked like in 1946? It was totally spared from the carpet incendiary bombings as a result of a sercret agreement between the militant Japanese government and our Pacific Allied Command. (yes, you guys from Oz were involved also!..in fact, our "brother" regiment "next door" was the Australian King James regiment...named for King James Scotch, no less...what else, eh?).
I was there on leave in the spring of that year, and there was not a tourist in sight...still not allowed into the city...only locals and G.I.'s...I was enchanted by the Philosopher's Walk and all of the well kept temples throughoutthe lovely city(even had been maintained during the wartime years)
I returned last year to visit the location of my former base in Beppu, Kyushu (after 60+ years), and we spent a glorious week in a ryokan in Kyoto.
Also, we drove all through the western and central regions of Turkey a few years ago...so I followed your post very closely.
Here are some selected scanned Turkey pics from 1995-8 (pre-digital), and some of my Kyoto pix from last year, You just might enjoy them.
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuarttower/ScenesOfTurkey
http://tinyurl.com/36dkgh
Stu T.
Jun 15th, 2008, 11:44 AM
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Tuppy, I'm so glad you were able to spend some time with Mehmet. Thanks to him, my wife and I also ate at Dibek and Ziggy's. Dibek's was fabulous.
I really can't say much about Ziggy's as I literally fell asleep there, which was the first time I've ever fallen asleep at a restaurant. I had stayed up too late the night before enjoying the company of Cheese and her husband. That morning we took the balloon ride and spent the day with Mehment. By the time we got to Ziggy's terrace under a moon that was just one day past being full, I ate a couple mezze and impolitely nodded off. Surprisingly, my wife didn't divorce me.
I really can't say much about Ziggy's as I literally fell asleep there, which was the first time I've ever fallen asleep at a restaurant. I had stayed up too late the night before enjoying the company of Cheese and her husband. That morning we took the balloon ride and spent the day with Mehment. By the time we got to Ziggy's terrace under a moon that was just one day past being full, I ate a couple mezze and impolitely nodded off. Surprisingly, my wife didn't divorce me.
Jun 15th, 2008, 06:11 PM
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Stu - your 'photos are great and thanks for your info. re Kyoto 1946. We really loved Kyoto and its people.
..and to Mike - you missed a great evening...not only is the food great, but the sunset from the rooftop was spectacular!
....and so back to Istanbul for 4 days, where we had booked a room at Sari Konak. We had booked Room 202, which contained a tiny balcony overlooking the street below. We absolutely loved our room, but it may not be for everyone. The bottom of this street - where the Sari Konak is located - contains a number of open-air restaurants and three other hotels. The noise at night is quite significant. That is, until the late night call to prayer. All live music then stops and it remains reasonably quiet until revellers returning to the Sari Konak and adjoining hotels, return. Breakfast is good and the little courtyard quite lovely.
We must mention here the two staff members who made our stay here memorable - Serdar and Nihat. Both are rostered to the front desk and from arranging a taxi to the airport and providing very early morning coffee, to recommending a restaurant that served mussels as a speciality (because my husband had mentioned he loved them), to advising the best time to take the Bosphorous ferry, etc. etc., they were to us, the face of Sari Konak -cheerful and helpful.
We quickly became "regulars" to the owner of the MiniMart (first turn to right as you venture up the street) where we purchased our daily bottles of water (and moderately-priced but excellent wine we had tasted in Cappadocia). Just before we left, we went to say goodbye and give him a kangaroo badge (he had identified us as Aussies by that badge) and he insisted on pressing into my hands a little set containing two tulip glasses and spoons and a little box of apple tea. Such are holiday memories!
Over the next few days, we visited the Beyoglu district, walked through the wonderful shopping and eating mazes there and sampled wonderful pastries and breads.
Back in Sultanahmet, we went back to the Grand Bazaar to haggle and ultimately purchase the black leather "Spiderman" jacket for our 4 year-old grandson we had seen on our first visit. What a hit that jacket became! We later strolled to the Istanbul Arts and Crafts Centre.
The Centre contains a peaceful garden and a selection of craftwares, all made by women in the local community. I purchased a fine cotton scarf, edged with tiny, handmade lillies -complete with leaves - for my mother, who is clearly in awe of such fine needlework.
We also bought a small intricately-detailed watercolour of ceremoniously dressed "animals of Turkey folklore" - an elephant, a camel and a horse.
We dined well! Apart from the seafood restaurant recommended to us by Nihat, we dined, again at his recommendation, at a nearby restaurant where a selection of meat and vegetables are cooked in a clay "pot:, which more resembles the shape of a wine carafe. The finished product is presented to the table, accompanied by a small sword. My husband was chuffed to be able to slice the top from the still flaming "pot" with a grand flourish - efore the fragrant contents spilled happily into a large waiting dish. Another wonderful evening!
...and back home....the 40 hours it took us to get here have almost dimmed.
Thank you to all the Fodorites who so generously share their travel experiences on this website. It is in that spirit I have written the above, but would be most happy to answer any questions and/or make any recommendations that would assist.
..and to Mike - you missed a great evening...not only is the food great, but the sunset from the rooftop was spectacular!
....and so back to Istanbul for 4 days, where we had booked a room at Sari Konak. We had booked Room 202, which contained a tiny balcony overlooking the street below. We absolutely loved our room, but it may not be for everyone. The bottom of this street - where the Sari Konak is located - contains a number of open-air restaurants and three other hotels. The noise at night is quite significant. That is, until the late night call to prayer. All live music then stops and it remains reasonably quiet until revellers returning to the Sari Konak and adjoining hotels, return. Breakfast is good and the little courtyard quite lovely.
We must mention here the two staff members who made our stay here memorable - Serdar and Nihat. Both are rostered to the front desk and from arranging a taxi to the airport and providing very early morning coffee, to recommending a restaurant that served mussels as a speciality (because my husband had mentioned he loved them), to advising the best time to take the Bosphorous ferry, etc. etc., they were to us, the face of Sari Konak -cheerful and helpful.
We quickly became "regulars" to the owner of the MiniMart (first turn to right as you venture up the street) where we purchased our daily bottles of water (and moderately-priced but excellent wine we had tasted in Cappadocia). Just before we left, we went to say goodbye and give him a kangaroo badge (he had identified us as Aussies by that badge) and he insisted on pressing into my hands a little set containing two tulip glasses and spoons and a little box of apple tea. Such are holiday memories!
Over the next few days, we visited the Beyoglu district, walked through the wonderful shopping and eating mazes there and sampled wonderful pastries and breads.
Back in Sultanahmet, we went back to the Grand Bazaar to haggle and ultimately purchase the black leather "Spiderman" jacket for our 4 year-old grandson we had seen on our first visit. What a hit that jacket became! We later strolled to the Istanbul Arts and Crafts Centre.
The Centre contains a peaceful garden and a selection of craftwares, all made by women in the local community. I purchased a fine cotton scarf, edged with tiny, handmade lillies -complete with leaves - for my mother, who is clearly in awe of such fine needlework.
We also bought a small intricately-detailed watercolour of ceremoniously dressed "animals of Turkey folklore" - an elephant, a camel and a horse.
We dined well! Apart from the seafood restaurant recommended to us by Nihat, we dined, again at his recommendation, at a nearby restaurant where a selection of meat and vegetables are cooked in a clay "pot:, which more resembles the shape of a wine carafe. The finished product is presented to the table, accompanied by a small sword. My husband was chuffed to be able to slice the top from the still flaming "pot" with a grand flourish - efore the fragrant contents spilled happily into a large waiting dish. Another wonderful evening!
...and back home....the 40 hours it took us to get here have almost dimmed.
Thank you to all the Fodorites who so generously share their travel experiences on this website. It is in that spirit I have written the above, but would be most happy to answer any questions and/or make any recommendations that would assist.
Jun 21st, 2008, 09:17 PM
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Tuppy, I really enjoyed reading your report! We are going to Turkey in September, and the majority of the trip booked with the Neon Tours (small groups). How was your experience with them? Seemed like you loved your guide. Also, where did you see the 'Whirling Dervishes' ceremony? You mentioned, that it was not a show. I thought that the real ceremony only happens once a year, but I could be wrong. I would love to see it too.
Thank you!
Helen
Thank you!
Helen
Jun 22nd, 2008, 05:55 AM
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Hi Tuppy,
I am glad you enjoyed your entire journey. I am sorry I was not able to meet you while in Cappadocia9
Hope you also tried housewine of Dibek, my favorite....
You are always welcome for more to Turkey.
Greetings from HOT Cappdocia,
Murat
I am glad you enjoyed your entire journey. I am sorry I was not able to meet you while in Cappadocia
9Hope you also tried housewine of Dibek, my favorite....
You are always welcome for more to Turkey.
Greetings from HOT Cappdocia,
Murat
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