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TRSW's Trip Report: 3 Amazing Weeks In Amsterdam, Venice, Bologna, Florence and Paris

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TRSW's Trip Report: 3 Amazing Weeks In Amsterdam, Venice, Bologna, Florence and Paris

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Old Nov 28th, 2006, 07:03 AM
  #41  
 
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"After unpacking, I head straight to Il Doumo. I still can't put in words why this building facinates me so much, it just does."

I wish someone could explain this power that Florence seems to have over people!!! I fell in love with her in October (looks like shortly before you Tom, we left on October 21st), so much in love, that I'm returning solo (I was with a group of co-workers) in January.

I am really enjoying your report, and can't wait for more. The photos are breathtaking!

Thank you.
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Old Nov 28th, 2006, 11:38 AM
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Bookmarking to read later. Gotta get back to work!
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Old Nov 28th, 2006, 12:32 PM
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Oh Tom, you know I loved hearing about your time in Italy..

but a side note. My husband and I were in a very small village in Italy. A village that a very close friends family lived in "forever" until his parents came to CA. So we visited the beautiful cemetary at this village and looked at all of our friends ancestors graves. We than went into the small church, lit a candle and said prayers for our friend, all of his siblings and their ancestors.

We returned home a few weeks later to discover that this dear friends brother had died while abaloning along the N CA coast. On the same day and at the same time we were at the cemetary and in the church. Verified by my travel journal. Your dear story sent chills up my spine and so reminded me of our experience. Sometimes life is hard to explain isn't it? Best regards.
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Old Nov 28th, 2006, 01:42 PM
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Tom -
This is such an absolutely enjoyable trip report! It is hard to explain the hold these places have on us - my husband still does not really understand. I hope he will come with me next time so he can "catch" the Italian virus, too!

Looking forward to more,
Linda
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Old Nov 29th, 2006, 06:02 PM
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Dayle - Do you have a link to your photos? I would really be interested in seeing them.

pantelia - You are right. I arrived on the 22nd, the day after you left.

LCBoniti - Give your husband time, he will come around LOL

LoveItaly - Yes indeed, life can be strange at times.

Tom
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Old Nov 29th, 2006, 06:34 PM
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A happier twist to the lighting of a candle...

I was speaking to a friend of mine today, who I happen to work with. We were talking about the posts of the candle lightings. When I was in Italy in October, I lit a candle for her son who had been in Iraq for just over a year. I lit the candle at the Basilica San Clemente, and took a picture of the candle I lit (didn't realize at the time, but one of my fellow travellers took a pic of me actually lighting the candle). She asked me when I had lit the candle for her son, and I told her it was Friday, October 13th, and she just smiled. Turns out, that she got word from her son that he was coming home, that very same day.

I was very touched.
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Old Nov 29th, 2006, 06:41 PM
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Day 11 - Florence

Today I am meeting up with Laurie, a fellow Fodorite that I met last year at a couple of GTG's in Rome. It turns out by chance she is in Florence part of the time I am here before she heads off to Venice.

We have decided to take a daytrip to Lucca. We meet up at the Duomo and find a little cafe for lunch and to get caught up.

Laurie works for CBS in NYC which used to own Viacom. Well it turns out that Viacom has an office here in Florence and that someone at CBS gave Laurie the email address of Andrea, the regional sales manager.

Andrea lives outside of Lucca and has invited us to meet him at his office and he will drive us to Lucca. It also turns out that he is an avid (and IMO really good) photographer. So on the drive we talk shop. Andrea must be one of the last people on earth that will NOT switch to digital.

Once we arrive, he drives us into Lucca and after stopping of at the tourist office to get us a map of the city, gives us a guided mini tour of the city. Then he has to leave to get home to his family.

We decide to walk around up on the wall. It is just so beautiful and is full of photo ops.

Heres a fun little fact about Lucca. It is the comic capital of Italy and the city was setting up for a giant convention.

After walking around a little more we catch the train back to Florence where we each head to our hotels to freshen up for a late dinner.

We end up going to Il Ghibellini. Dinner for the both of us, including wine came to 37 euro.

After dinner we walk around for a while then go our seperate ways. But we plan to get together tomorrow.

On my way back to my hotel, I come across a street performer near Piazza della Repubblica. There is a large crowd, 3 of whom, were assisting him in his act. He was kind of like Charlie Chaplin meets John Cleese. Very funny and entertaing.

From here it was time to call it a night.

Tomorrow - The Belltower and the other side of the Arno
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Old Nov 29th, 2006, 06:45 PM
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pantelia - That is great news about your friends son. Is he back in the states yet?

Tom
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Old Nov 29th, 2006, 06:48 PM
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Yay- another installment! I am really enjoying this trip report.

Pantelia - loved your story about the candle-lighting. Made me smile.
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Old Nov 29th, 2006, 06:52 PM
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Yes, his unit arrived on US soil (at Fort something or other in Georgia) around the 7th of November and arrived back in Tampa on Veteran's day.
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Old Nov 29th, 2006, 06:58 PM
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pantelia - Thats great news. May they all come home safe and soon!!
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Old Nov 29th, 2006, 09:21 PM
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Day 12 - Florence

Before I start, I must point out, when checking weather reports for my trip, it was predicted that it was going to rain everyday. But other than the one day of rain in Bologna and 2 other overcast days, the weather has been perfect. In fact, unseasonably warm!! And today is more of the same. It will get into the mid 70's.

Laurie and I meet up once again at the Duomo. We are going to climb the Belltower. About halfway up, I am huffing and puffing (I really need to quit smoking) Even from here the view is amazing. After a short rest, we move on. Once to the top and I step outside, I forget about the shortness of breath and how hot I am.

The view is just out of this world!!! Talk about photo ops! We spend about a half an hour up here taking it all in.

On the way down, we come across a few folks that are also huffing and puffing. We encourage them on by telling them that won't be disapointed for thier efforts. Then we come upon the most inspiring person I have met in a long time.

It is a lady in her 70's. She is climbing the the tower with a full backpack and walking with a cane. All this and with the biggest smile on her face! Just amazing!!

After we reach the bottom, Laurie wants to go shoe shopping. This is not my cup of tea. So we decide to meet later for lunch and to go to the Pitti Palace and go our seperate ways.

I head over to the Lorenzo Markets to pick up some gifts for the ladies who are taking care of my boy, Diablo. While I am here I also head into the Mercato Centrale.

Okay, the Mercato is not only a photographers dream. But for a Chef, this is HEAVEN!!!! All the meats and fresh produce. Especially the mushrooms!! YUMMMY!

www.pase.com/trsw/image/69340424


It is while walking through the Mercato, I start to put together a menu that I will be cooking in two nights out at Luciano and Susys farmhouse.

Laurie and I head over to the Pitti Palace. We tour the Boboli Gardens. They are just as beautiful as I remember them from last year. Down by the card shop there are a couple of cats roaming around. And just like the dogs last year at Ostia Antica, we must say hi.

From here we head into the Costume Museum. It is not until Laurie points it out, but boy the people back in the day were short!!

Afterwards we head out to explore this side of the Arno. But explore has a different meaning to each of us. Laurie = shopping. Tom = photos. So we decide to meet later at her hotel to go to dinner.

We end up at Tattoria Alfredo in the Santa Croce area. The place is nearly empty, but the food was great. I had the Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Although it was not as thick as the one I had last year at Il Latini, it is just as tender and just as tasty!!!

After dinner, I walk Laurie back to her hotel and we go our seperate ways. I head over to Piazza Signoria. There is a husband and wife team performing a combo of original and classic rock tunes. They are very talented.

Time to call it a night.

Tomorrow - Siena, Piazzle Michelangelo and a couple of tired doggies.


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Old Nov 29th, 2006, 09:41 PM
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Sorry the link to the mushroom picture should be

www.pbase.com/trsw/image/69340424

Tom
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Old Nov 30th, 2006, 11:01 AM
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<<Andrea must be one of the last people on earth that will NOT switch to digital.>>

For I knew somehow that I was not alone.


Wonderful report, still so completely enjoying it, you have a wonderful flow to your writing. Mille grazzie.
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Old Nov 30th, 2006, 04:11 PM
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Beautiful pictures! It got me more excited now, I'm flying out tomorrow to go to Venice, Rome, Milan, and London. I can't wait!

By the way, what does 'dh' mean?


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Old Nov 30th, 2006, 11:38 PM
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Day 13 - Florence

Last year I had visited Siena as part of an organised tour. My time there was way to short to really appreciate this wonderful city.

So this year, I awake early, like I have a choice due to the church bells going off at 7am!!

When I arrive at the bus depot, I grab a map and decide to follow the recommended 'exploration' path.

Siena is even more amazing than I remembered!! There is sooo much more to see than the Campo and the Basillica. The side streets and churches are well worth the visit.

After about four hours of roaming (and once again, photos) I head back to Florence, where, due to the heat, I head back to the Pensione to take a rest.

Around the onset of sunset, I head out for Piazzle Michelangelo. It is about a 30 minute walk, and is so worth it!!! I get to the top just as the sun is setting. All I can say is, BEAUTIFUL!!

Okay, to get a sense of what I am seeing, the first link is to my left and the second is to my right.

www.pbase.com/trsw/image/69340443
www.pbase.com/trsw/image/69340461

I am asked by many of my fellow tourists to take thier picture with the city in the background.

After the sun completely sets, I head back to the Pensione to get ready for dinner. For some reason tonight I look at a whole lot of menus and can't seem to make up my mind.

After what seems to be hours of wandering, I find myself in Piazza della Signoria and opt for Il David.

For dinner, I start with the Bruschetta. It is almost as good as the one in Venice. For the main course, it is Spinach Cannelloni. All this with the house red for 22 euro.

While I am eating I can hear the same couple from the night before performing. This is such a nice touch to a very long day!!

After dinner I head back to the Pensione and see that the street perfomer from the night before is going through his act again. I stop to check him out again. He is just so funny.

From here, it is back to the Pensione to call it a night. Thank God, for my feet are killing me from all the walking and hill climbing!!

Tomorrow - THE DINNER and A DAY IN HEAVEN!!!!
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Old Dec 1st, 2006, 04:58 PM
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Day 14 - Pontessieve

Today is a day I have waited for for over a year. I will be cooking dinner out at Luciano and Susys farmhouse.

This all came to be when last year before I stayed at thier Pensione, I emailed them and told them that, as a cook, it would be a dream come true to cook dinner while I was in Italy. I offered to cook for them and thier staff.

Luciano emailed me back that we would work something out when I arrived. But when I came down with a cold, I thought it would be best to not risk getting them sick and canceled the dinner.

On my last day there, Luciano told me that the next time I am in Florence he would give me a discount and that the dinner would take place out at thier farmhouse.

Which brings us to today. When Susy picks me up she tells me that they have invited 3 other couples so there would be 9 for dinner. Great, nothing like a little pressure LOL

On our way to the supermarket, we discuss the menu (and no I wasn't going to insult them and cook Italian) After shopping it is off to the farmhouse which is in the hills in a small city outside of Florence called Pontessieve. The last 15 minutes are bumpy on a dirt road. But once we get there, it is just so beautiful. (see the Tuscany gallery at the pbase site)

After putting away the groceries I am given a tour of the 'ruins' as Luciano calls them. Seems the house was built in the 1300's and had sat empty for 20 years before they bought it back in 1999. It is about 2/3 restored and what is done is amazing.

We have lunch out on the patio and catch each other up on whats been going on over the last year. After lunch I take a walk up in the hills on thier property. Seems that today is the opening of hunting season and there are gunshots going off in the distance. The view is just beautiful.

Dinner is set for 9pm and I have a lot of work to do. Here is the menu:

Roasted Garlic and Herb Bread from scratch
Glazed Carrots
Steamed Broccoli with garlic
Rosemary Roasted Potatoes
Pork Tenderloin with a Stoneground Mustard Sauce

The herbs and broccoli are fresh from Susys garden. As is the Rocket and tomatoes that Susy uses to make a salad. Dessert was a Lemon Meringue pie made by one of the guests.

The dinner went off without a hitch, although I will admit I was nervous. But they all loved the food and were quite suprised that I made bread from scratch. There were no leftovers.

Luciano and Susys friends are really great people. At the table we had an artist, a writer and an Opera singer.

We sat at the table talking (and drinking) until after midnight. Since it was so late, I was invited to spend the night at the farmhouse.

After the gusts left I went outside, it was a crystal clear night, the sky was full of stars and all you could hear was crickets. Talk about Heaven!!!

Time to call it a night. I was given the guest bedroom with a king size bed, feather pillows and a feather comforter. Ahhhhhh!!!!

Tomorrow - Fog in them thar hills and the laundromat
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Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 02:13 AM
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Day 15 - Pontessieve and Florence

After a great nights sleep, I awake to sunshine coming through the window. But after I come out of the shower, the hills of Pontessieve are shrouded in fog. This means one thing, yes, PHOTO OP's!!!!

After about an hour of wandering the countryside, the fog lifts. When I get back to the house both Luciano and Susy are awake. Susy has coffee brewing. So I whip up a breakfast of eggs and Boar bacon, which we eat out on the patio. Once again, I am in Heaven!!!

After breakfast, Luciano drives me back to Florence, and since they no longer own the Pensione, can only go so far into the city, he drops me off near Piazza Santa Croce. He gives me a big bear hug and tells me, that if a future planned trip to Italy with my sisters happens, get in touch with him, and we can all stay at 'the ruins'!! As long as I agree to cook for everyone, that is! This is a no brainer, and I agree!!(I mean, DUH!! How can you refuse such a great offer?)

After making my way back to the Pensione, I throw all my clothes into my suitcase and head out to the laundromat about 3 blocks away. This makes a great way to be packed for the early morning train to Milan tommorow for my flight to Paris.

After dropping of my laundry at the Pensione, I head out once again to just wander the streets of my spiritual home, Firenze!!

For dinner, I end up going to La Spada, a place recommended to me by Ermine, a holdover of the Pensione from the days when Luciano and Susy were the owners.

The food and service are just great. The Pasta Carbonara is amazing!! Dinner with a starter, the main course, dessert and a half liter of the house red comes to 20 euro! What a bargain!!!

After dinner, I walk the streets to take to take in this amazing city one last time. Then I call it a night.

Tomorrow - Planes, Trains and Aotumoblies to get to Paris.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 03:55 AM
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What an amazing experience, Tom! Sounds divine - the best day yet.

Can't wait for Paris.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2006, 07:22 AM
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Hi Tom,

I lost your post for a while and just now caught up! What a wonderful trip you had, cooking dinner sounds like it was a real chance to get to know Italians on a personal level.

I too am one of those who has not yet switched to digital, so no posted photos for me. Besides, yours are much better!

Do continue, looking forward to the rest.
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