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Trois Gros (Roanne) and restaurants in Lyon

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Old Aug 30th, 2004, 04:57 AM
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Trois Gros (Roanne) and restaurants in Lyon

My husband and I will be in Roanne (an hour or so outside of Lyon) for a week long French immersion program at Trois Ponts. We know that Trois Gros, a three star Michelin resturant, considered one of France's 10 top resturants, is in Roanne. The web site gives sample dinner menus, and the price is very high. We were thinking of lunching there as an alternative. Does anyone have any experience with this resturant? It's hard to belive that any resturant could be that much better to charge that much money. Then again, it's been a couple of years since we were last in France.

Actually, we will also be in Lyon for a few days, so any other resturant suggestions will be welcome.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions you might have.

Margret
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Old Aug 30th, 2004, 02:40 PM
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ttt
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Old Aug 30th, 2004, 11:45 PM
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Hello,
I can't help you with information on Trois Gros, as I've never eaten there. However, I can give you a few recommendations for eating in Lyon.

Of course, it's always a bit dangerous asking for restaurant recommendations in Lyon as there are *so* many places to eat in this city, the list would be endless! The ones I've listed below are just those that came to mind (I've probably listed most of them before on this board)...

My favourite restaurant in Lyon is the Caro de Lyon on rue du Bat d'Argent (off the rue de la République, near the Opera). They have a prix fixe menu for around 26 euros which is very good, but it is really worth spending a little more and eating à la carte. For around 40 euros a head you can have a fabulous meal there - the cuisine is always innovative, using fresh local ingredients in imaginative ways (green olive soup with salt cod brandade, lobster ravioli, squab en croûte, seared peppered tuna steak with puréed broccoli ...). The decor is lovely too - antiques and bookshelves abound.

If you decide to eat on rue Mercière or rue des Marronniers (the two pedestrian "restaurant streets" on the presqu'île), then you need to exercise some discretion, as some places are better than others.

- On rue Mercière you could try the Bouchon aux Vins or next-door Bistrot Lyonnais for good value French cooking (3 courses for 22 euros).
- La Mercière is supposedly the best restaurant on the street, although i've never eaten there. It serves traditional Lyonnais food.
- Gaston, which calls itself a "restaurant agricole" ("farm restaurant&quotis a fun choice for old-fashioned French farmhouse cooking - roast chicken, buttery mashed potatoes, fresh green beans, charcuterie, raclette (a Savoyard dish of cold meats and potatoes which you smother with melted cheese). It's hearty and good value, but not a good choice on a hot day!
- Bleu de Toi serves tuna steaks/kebabs, various kinds of mussels, and various fish carpaccios, always with all the fries you can eat. It's cheap, cheerful and busy but worth waiting a few minutes for a table as the service is usually quick and the food is tasty.

- On rue des Marronniers, I enjoyed eating at the little restaurant called the Rondelle de Serviette a few years ago, but I haven't eaten there recently. I remember having a wonderful home-made crab and leek tart.
- Also on rue des Marronniers is Chabert et Fils, serving traditional Lyonnais style food.
- Next door is the Cabane des Pecheurs, run by the same people, with the emphasis on fish and seafood dishes. We had a decent meal there.

- Brasserie Georges is a bit of an institution in Lyon, located near Perrache train station. It's huge - a massive room filled with tables and banquettes. The food is quite good - the usual brasserie fare (choucroute, steaks, etc.) although the chicken dish I ate there was disappointing. Overall, you go for the atmosphere and the experience - not the place to choose if you're looking for an intimate, quiet dinner!

Another great place we ate at recently was the Table d'Hippolyte at 22 rue d'Hippolyte Flandrin. This small restaurant is definitely a favourite among my friends in Lyon. There are just a few menu choices, changing daily, based on the availability of fresh local produce. There is a little terrace raised on a deck outside the restaurant, surrounded by bamboo and potted plants, with dining tables and chairs. You do need to book, however.

If you are in the Vieux Lyon quarter, you'll be surrounded by restaurants, mainly catering for tourists. There used to be some decent eateries among the tourist traps (L'Auberge de Rabelais, Les Ventres Jaunes, le Comptoir Duboeuf), but I have found lately that quality is going downhill somewhat. It's probably better to have lunch (rather than dinner) in this area.

Actually, one great place to stop for lunch is the Café Sol on rue Duboeuf, just round the corner from the place Neuve Saint Jean. They serve food all day (a rare thing in Lyon!) and have a nice little terrace on the cobbled street. They do various salads (seafood, avocado, etc.), mussels, tapas, grilled kebabs, etc. We've eaten there three times and it's always been fresh and tasty.

Hope that helps!
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Old Aug 31st, 2004, 02:45 AM
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A couple of years ago we ate at Paul Bocuse. While it was a fascinating experience - from the wildly kitsch exterior to M & Mme Bocuse promenading around to give each table a stately bow, the food was pretty average. I think they just get to keep their 3 stars due to their history.
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Old Aug 31st, 2004, 06:22 AM
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Trois Gros is a shrine to the art of French Cuisine. It maintains the highest standards as passed on from Pierre Troisgros to his sons. Top chefs from all over the world are proud to have their resumé reflect a stint there.
It is expensive and if you don't have the interest in absolutely top end dining then you would be better off going elsewhere. You can certainly have 3 very good meals in other nice restaurants for what one would cost at Troisgros.

I personally rate it right along with Taillevent, Les Crayeres and Auberge de L'Ile as one of the finest restaurants anywhere.
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Old Aug 31st, 2004, 09:48 AM
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Go for lunch, it is well worth it. You will not soon forget it.
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Old Aug 31st, 2004, 09:52 AM
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Thank you all for your kind answers. We'll ceratinly consider eating at Trois Gros, and, as I said earlier, might well have lunch there to both save some money and to fit in best with our schedule. Laidback, do you think that this would give us adequate exposure to Trois Gros?

Hanl, thanks so much for your Lyon suggestions. Although I've been to France before, I haven't traveled to Lyon, and I'm having some trouble trying to sort out the city. We're staying at the Hotel des Artistes and will have 2 + days before the school and 1 1/2 days before returning to the states ( we'll be in Provence for 8 days in between). I'm trying to figure out what to do, where it is and how to get there, and where to eat. The Forum has been helpful, as well as various sites on the web. Hanl, your resturant suggestions are invaluable, since I suspect that we will be going from restaurant to restaurant with some site-seeing in between. Any suggestions to help us get oriented to Lyon would be appreciated.

Thanks again, Margret
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Old Aug 31st, 2004, 03:12 PM
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justretired...Can I suggest that you do the bus trip around Lyon.You can get tickets and catch the bus from the Tourist info office...it is a hop on, hop off trip and will give you a good overview of the city. We stayed on the whole way and then continued around again to go to Cathedral and the wonderful Lyon Park. Enjoy!
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Old Aug 31st, 2004, 03:23 PM
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Lyon has wonderful restaurants. My favorite restaurant was Le Machonnerie, recommended by a local. Authentic Lyonnesse food at very good prices. I believe they have a website.
 
Old Aug 31st, 2004, 03:28 PM
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Since you are looking specifically for dining information you may want to look at http://forums.egullet.com/index.php?showforum=10

you can post your question or do a search and read dining reviews posted by serious foodies!
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Old Aug 31st, 2004, 03:31 PM
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TorontoSteven or any one else,

Do you have an idea about how much lunch would cost at Trois Gros? The fixed price "menu" dinner is 185 Euros per person (without wine); a la carte seems more manageable, as long as you only eat one or two courses. You can see why the price surprised us.

Thanks all, Margret

Thanks for the bus suggestion.
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Old Aug 31st, 2004, 11:03 PM
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Lyon's a very manageable city, very pedestrian friendly. The metro is clean and safe: there are no turnstiles, so you must remember to validate your ticket before you walk onto the platform.

How are you arriving in Lyon? If you're coming by train from Paris, get off the train at Perrache station. If you're coming by plane, you'll probably be looking at around 40-45 euros for a taxi, or 8 euros for the shuttle bus. I'd strongly advise against driving in Lyon unless absolutely necessary. It's a maze, there are a lot of road works, tunnels, one-way systems, flyovers, and even if you have a map it's a nightmare.

The Hotel des Artistes is in a great location, so you'll be able to walk pretty much everywhere. Lots of shops, restaurants, cafés within walking distance. 5-10 minute stroll over the bridge to the Old Town.

I'd definitely recommend getting the Lyon City Card, available from the Tourist Office (place Bellecour). It's a tourist pass that comes in 1, 2 or 3-day versions (18, 28 or 38 euros) and covers all the museums, various guided tours, a boat trip on the river, plus you can travel for free on the entire public transport network.

Don't forget to visit the traboules, a network of old covered passages linking up buildings in the old town and in the Croix Rousse district. You can get a map of them from the Tourist Office. Many are only open to the public in the morning. I'd suggest visiting the old town (Vieux Lyon) quarter on your first day - tour the traboules and old cobbled streets on rue St Jean, visit the Cathedral, perhaps have lunch around there. Then take the funicular up to Fourvière basilica on the hill. Then wander down to the Roman theatres and visit the Gallo-Roman museum, and then funicular or walk back down to the Old town.

If you enjoy markets, there's a great food and flower market on the Saône quayside (Quai des Celestins) every morning till about 1pm, except Mondays. THe best open market in Lyon is up on the Croix-Rousse hill (on the Boulevard de la Croix Rousse), every day except Mondays. If you decide to go up there, you'll have fun on the uphill metro. Make sure you're facing the direction of travel or you'll slide off your seat!

If there's a particular restaurant you want to dine in, I'd recommend reserving as the Lyonnais love to eat out! If you haven't booked, get there no later than 8 to make sure you get a table. If you want to do a bit of shopping, note that the classy designer boutiques are located around place des Jacobins and rue Edouard Herriot, while the predestrian precincts of rue de la République and rue Victor Hugo are home to the usual French chain stores. Lots of shoe shops on rue Victor Hugo! If you want to find books in English, the Fnac has a small selection, and there's also a foreign language bookshop called Decitre on the north side of place Bellecour. If you want newspapers or magazines in English, these are stocked at the other branch of Decitre on the south side of Place Bellecour.
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Old Sep 1st, 2004, 03:59 AM
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Hanl,

Thanks so much for helping us organize our time in Lyon- your suggestions are invaluable. I think we'll follow your mini-tour; it sounds perfect! Do you recommend the Silk Museum- it sounds rather unusual.

We will be arriving in Lyon on the TGV (direct from CDG) at the Gare Parc Dieu, I think. We are renting a car ( again at Parc Dieu) when we leave Lyon to go to Roanne, and then, 2+ weeks later, returning it at the airport. I hope we'll get good directions to get out of and into Lyon! We had decided, after reading the forum and hearing about the confusion at CDG since the problems at Terminal 2, that, to leave France at the end of our trip, it might be easier to check in in Lyon rather than CDG- that's why we're flying to CDG on the trip home rather then taking the TGV. Air France only allows an hour and a quarter to make the connection for the flight to Boston-it seems rather close to me, but then again, if we miss the flight, we'll be stuck in Paris, and what's bad about that!!

Do you think that we should reserve resturants from the US before our departure? Are lunch reservations needed as well? Also, we will be arriving quite jet lagged the first day and will probably want to eat near the hotel. Any suggestions?

Again, thanks,

Margret
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Old Sep 1st, 2004, 04:30 AM
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Hello again,
I should think you'll manage OK driving from Part Dieu out of Lyon, as the route you'll be taking out of the city will be clearly signposted (A6/Paris). People seem to have the most trouble when trying to drive into Lyon and drop off their rental car at Part Dieu.

You won't need to reserve restaurants before you arrive in Lyon. Same day reservation for dinner is usually fine (that's what we do, anyway).
For your first evening, I'd suggest walking from your hotel to Rue Mercière, about 5 minutes away, and just choosing somewhere that takes your fancy. If you get there before 8, you should be able to get a nice table outside (all the restaurants have tables out on the street). It's kind of a touristy street (but also very popular with the locals) but it's pretty, all lit up, with all the tables out on the cobbles and people strolling by, and there's lots of choice.

I doubt you'll need lunch reservations (unless you have your heart set on a particular place, in which case it wouldn't hurt to reserve!). But then I don't usually mind wandering around looking for a place to eat lunch. Somehow it's different in the evening - I always like to know where I'm going to have my dinner so I can start looking forward to it!!!!

I haven't actually been to the Silk museum (shame on me) so I can't be of much help there. Lyon's got such a rich silk-making history that I'm sure it'll be interesting though.

If you have any other specific Q's on Lyon, feel free
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Old Sep 1st, 2004, 10:48 AM
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Hanl,

I'm sure that I'll have lots of questions over the next 2 weeks, so thank you for your kind offer. I feel like I have a private tour director for Lyon.

One quick question. What will the weather be like the last 2 weeks of Septmeber, first week of October? You mention sitting outdoors at cafes and restaurants, so I gather the weather can be quite warm. Here in Boston, the temperature can range from quite warm days (we call it Indian summer) with temps sometimes in the 70s (or even the 80s) to quite chilly. Of course, evenings are cooler. Is it similar?

Thank you again, Margret
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Old Sep 1st, 2004, 12:03 PM
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Hello Margret,

I think we (two of us) spent about 170 Euro for lunch, which included three courses and wine. Not exactly cheap, but we were well treated.
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Old Sep 1st, 2004, 01:06 PM
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Hi Margret,
It sounds like the weather in Lyon in late September/early October is quite similar to Boston. The BBC website has a good guide to average weather conditions in various cities, including Lyon, where you can see the average temperatures throughout the year (in Centigrade - to get a rough idea of the temp in Fahrenheit, multiply by two and add 30). The BBC's 5-day forecast is also quite reliable (better than Yahoo I think). http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/world/c...ml?tt=TT003580

As for sitting outside, it may or may not be warm enough at that time of year. At lunchtime it's quite possible. And some restaurants have powerful outdoor heaters so the terraces are warm all year round. Whatever the weather,have a glass or two of Crozes Hermitage or Macon Villages and I'm sure you'll enjoy the atmosphere!
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Old Sep 2nd, 2004, 03:36 AM
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hanl, this has nothing to do with the original subject, but I love your quickie Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion, F=2C+30. I never thought of that.

It's a snap to do in your head, and in the range we mostly live in, -10C (14F) to 30C (86F), it's never off by more than 4 degrees F. It's exact in the middle of that range (10C = 50F), and then errs by one degree F for each 5 degrees C away from 10.

The exact formula, of course, is F=9C/5+32, instead of your F=10C/5+30.

- Larry
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Old Sep 2nd, 2004, 04:37 AM
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I'm terrible at mental arithmetic so I need simplified formulas for things like currency and temperature conversion.
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Old Sep 2nd, 2004, 06:22 AM
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HI Hanl:

I will be in Lyon for one or two days this month also...you have the best recs. I will also be staying at the castle in Chambery that you once did a trip report on...can't wait. Sorry to hijack this thread, but wanted to thank you for all the help you give us all. One question about the place in Chambery, what would be the dress for dinner there? Thanks again
Justretired....have a great trip, I wish I was just retired!
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