This year's trip was to be one of my least expensive ventures ever. Airfare was to be minimal courtesy of a friend who offered me a D3 standby pass. Ground transportation was to be free - courtesy of the free buses and trains available if over nighting in the Black Forest (in KONUS participating villages) - for the two weeks I was to enjoy the Schwarzwald. I did not reserve any accommodations ahead of time (except for two days of Stammtisch meetings in Urach). I hesitated to reserve anything since I would be flying standby and unsure of departure date and return dates. I was however armed with folders full of possible inexpensive accommodations in several KONUS villages along the train lines. KONUS participating towns pay a tax to the public transportation authorities and that allows anyone staying in their towns to use public transportation free (within the KONUS zone) by showing their lodging Guestcard (furnished by hosts).

At least that was my original plan...

My plan was to fly out of DFW on a Tues, Wed or Thurs in September (it's always best to try to fly in the middle of the week when flying standby). As those days approached I was kept abreast of the load list status of those particular flights (only one flight a day) and to make a long story short - I overreacted at finding all those flights potentially full. A few days before liftoff the numbers looked terrible and I didn't think I had a chance of making any of the standby flights. I went online and finally found a bargain I couldn't pass up - a direct flight via Lufthansa - DFW to FRA for $616.86 total. Considering that before logging on to economytravel.com I couldn't find anything for less than a $1,000 - I felt very good about my find. This also relieved a lot of stress from my shoulders as now I would have a confirmed seat - going and coming.

Departure day finally arrives - flight is on time and I have an aisle seat (and the seat next to me is empty) and all is right with the world. Lufthansa is a wonderful airline and I always feel like I'm halfway there already when stepping aboard and listening to the German speaking attendants. Uneventful, stress free flight arrives on time.

Baggage, Immigration and Customs controls are smooth and I am quickly at the airport train station purchasing a ticket to my first destination in the Central Black Forest - Zell am Harmersbach (near Gengenbach). Easily accessible from the B33 roadway and by train. Two hours and two train changes (Mannheim and Offenburg) later I arrive at Zell and walk the short distance from the Bahnhof to the Tourist Info Office. I have addresses and phone numbers of several Zimmer Frei in town that would fit my budget. The lady at the TI office calls the first Haus for me and I am in luck - a large doubleroom with full bath (ensuite) and cable TV for the singleroom price of 17 Euro per night. The Haus Daheim (hosted by the Zimmermann family) is but a short walk from the TI office so shortly after noon on my first day in-country I am already unpacked and set to enjoy my first three days of exploring the Forest. According to my hosts (Zimmermann family) I was the first American to stay here. As nice as it is I'm sure I won't be the last... http://www.bensbauernhof.com/hausdah...rmersbach.html

For the next three days I took advantage of the free transportation by visiting several villages - Gengenbach, Oberhamersbach, Biberach and Hornberg - to name a few. One morning I rode to Hornberg and spent a few hours hiking down to the town from the Bahnhof and then up the other side of the Reichenbachtal to visit the ruins of Hornberg castle. For so many years I have driven or ridden thru this village and wondered about the castle ruins on the hill above town. A good little hump but just what my legs needed - a little workout to stretch the old calves.

http://www.bensbauernhof.com/bb2007hornberg1.jpg

The Hornberger Eisenbahnviadukt was constructed in 1924/1925, is over 80 feet tall and stretches 150 meters along the Reichenbach valley. Best viewed from the castle ruins... http://www.bensbauernhof.com/bb2007hornberg5.jpg

My second night in Zell I was invited (by my hosts) to accompany them to a concert at the Schwarzwaldhalle in Unterharmersbach. The concert included the local Musikverein and a procession of towns people wearing their traditional Schwarzwald Trachten (local costumes). It looked like I was the only American there as I was introduced to everyone my hosts knew and had my picture taken with even more. A fun night with lots of free refreshments sent my way.

My last day in Zell was highlighted by a trip to Gengenbach (another former Free Imperial city). Gengenbach is a beautiful old town with lots of Fachwerk (timber-framed buildings), historic landmarks, and a pretty little pedestrian zone. http://www.bensbauernhof.com/bb2007gengenbach4.jpg

Mid-afternoon I met up with eight of our Stammtisch and friends for an early dinner. The weather for those first three days was wonderful (50s & 60s) - wonderfully cool compared to the still summer heat in Dallas. (Excellent weather for entire two weeks except one day of rain.)

Originally I had planned to spend the next two days exploring the Wald at another KONUS town - however I found a ride to Urach with some Stammtischers - called ahead and reserved a room. The Kirnerhof is a terrific old farm run by Frau Wehrle and her daughter Frau Schuler (both very nice hosts). This Bauernhof has several doublerooms and an apartment that could sleep four. I had the apartment which had it's own shower, toilet, large bedroom, full kitchen and satellite TV for 15 Euro a night.

Starting the next day other Stammtischers started arriving in town and before it was all said and done we had about 20 folks sitting down to dinner together for two nights at the Gasthaus zum Sternen. http://www.bensbauernhof.com/bb2007quickpics3.html

After four nights in the little village of Urach I was set to leave for the Schluchsee area that next day however I was talked in to staying a few more days and then heading for Bavaria. Myself and another group member who was flying solo drove down to the small village of Wallgau just north of Mittenwald for three days. So much for my plans to do two weeks in the Schwarzwald. The plan now was to meet some other Stammtischers at the Oktoberfest in Munich so how could I say no to that. We had a nice drive to the Mittenwald area with a short stop in Meersburg on the Bodensee. Just enough time to show my chauffeur the upper and lower sections of town and do some quick shopping.

Our accommodations in Wallgau were courtesy of one of our Stammtischers who considers the place his home away from home. Jim (Tooooobah) has been going here for years and most of the town knows him by name. Jim speaks Bavarian fluently and looks the part as much as anyone else in town. Wallgau is a perfect little Bavarian village nestled in a valley surrounded by the Ester, Soiern, Wetterstein and Karwendel mountains. The Haus Felsenfest is a charming (typical Bavarian) Haus situated just off the B11 (south of the Walchensee) owned and operated by the very nice Walter family (Fritz and Senta). (http://www.bensbauernhof.com/felsenfestwallgau2007.html)

The next day we trained to Munich (almost two hours), met Jim and we were off to "d'Wies'n" for the Oktoberfest. We met a few more Stammtischers at the Augustiner-Festhalle at high noon, entered the massive tent and found a good spot near the bandstand. Most of the tables in that area are reserved but all you have to do is check the "Reserved Time" listed on the tables and we found one that would not be occupied by the 'reservers' until 1700 hrs. That gave us several hours to enjoy the festivities and several 'Ein Maß' before having to give up the table and go our separate ways.

Next morning we headed to Bacharach on the Rhine where we stayed at the Pension Winzerhaus
(http://www.bensbauernhof.com/winzerhausbacharach.html). We got the last two rooms available for the day - a DZ for Len (30 Euro) and a MBZ (3 beds) for myself at the same price (as long as I didn't disturb the other two beds). Spent our last evening shopping in Bacharach and dining at the Hotel am Markt in St. Goar (an excellent restaurant with good food and service staff - definitely worthy of a meal).

My final morning in Germany - up early - down to the Bacharach Bahnhof (courtesy of my chauffeur Len) at 0528am for an early train (9.50 Euro) to the Flughafen. Len had a later flight and drove to the airport. Lufthansa was excellent all the way.

Accommodations for this thirteen night trip averaged 16.5 Euro a day - same as last year - however with the weaker dollar this year it came to about $24 a night - still very much affordable even on my budget. Except for a train ride from Frankfurt Flughafen to Zell a.H., half a Bayern pass for one day and a train from Bacharach back to the Flughafen my ground transportation costs were virtually free (courtesy of the KONUS program in the Schwarzwald and my chauffeur friend Len in Bavaria). Free breakfasts, imbiss/snack/picnic type lunches, and low-priced restaurant dinners also worked well for a tight budget. Total cost of trip - approx $1,500 (give or take a few chocolate bars for the Frau)...

Another fun trip... It's over for this year but lots of good memories. And there is always next year (hopefully)...

Additional pictures and full trip report is here - http://www.bensbauernhof.com/twoweek...ghtbudget.html

Thanks for the great report, the great tips and another reminder that Germany can be affordable.

Thanks for posting this. I like reading about good budget tips.

Isn't Gengenbach a pretty little place! We spent some time there a couple of years ago at the Hotel Sonne right by the town square. Think our room was around 56E but it was a full service hotel so we thought that quite reasonable for a double. Of course, I wouldn't have know about it had it not been for Fodor's! Had the weather been better, we would have done more exploring in the area, but hopefully there will be another opportunity.

Thanks for your report, Ben!

What a great report! I love budget reports - as we totally are in that category.

Would you please take a quick trip to Eastern/Central Europe starting in Cairo and ending in Prague (visiting Istanbul, Romanian villages, and Budapest along the way) and then writing up your BUDGET version?

Oh yes, and try to do it before April!

You deserve a medal. What an encouraging report for those who don't think they can afford to travel in Europe.

Since you did not mention Germany in your subject line, some of us other budgeteers ventured into your trip report, and encountered 2 mysteries never explained:

What exactly, is a Stammtisch?? is it bigger than a breadbox? Is it friendly if you feed it? Is it a relative of a KONUS? Is the plural of KONUS KONI? Does KONUS last all year? Is it fattening?

Please enlighten!

Great report, Ben! Nice website, too.

Thanks for posting this Ben. Great info for a friend headed that way next September. He'll be amazed at the accommodation prices you found and will likely research to find similar deals. I've already recommended your website many times.

Keep up the GREAT work and the service you provide to us "budget-minded" travelers.

MvK