Buongiorno Fodorites: I just returned from a wonderful 3 week trip to Italy and want to post my experiences. You've been a great help to me in preparing for this trip that I feel compelled to share my experiences. We went on a tour with Grand Circle Travel and it was the very best!!! I know a lot of people recommend making your own reservations thru the internet, etc. but we couldn't have asked for better accommodations, a Program Director who stayed with us the whole trip, and used local guides. The included tours were fabulous. I can't imagine anyone getting as much out of a museum tour while reading a book versus a local guide with meaningful insights.

It was HOT and humid these past 3 weeks, even hit 100. I can't imagine staying at a Rick Steves type hotel without an A/C or private bath. The weather was brutal, especially in Rome, Florence, and Venice. It was very crowded everywhere but this was the only time my wife could get off for vacation.

We tried to walk as much as possible but also took the bus (get your tickets at a Tabacchi stand; using the ticket dispenser requires a 2 cent coin to "prime" the machine apparently). The taxis wereen't bad either- about 12 euros from the Prati area to the Colosseum.

Rome was dirty (full of graffiti), loud, confusing (people drive and park anywhere they wish) and yet when you come across another monument, Church, or ancient ruin it takes your breath away. My favorite sites were St. Peter's Basilica (awesome). Seeing Michaelangelo's Pieta and St. Peter's tomb gave me goosebumps.

The Borghese Museum is not to be missed(I personally didn't think the Academia, Pitti Palace, Bargello, Uffizi, Science Museums in Florence were as spectacular). The Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel were wonderful. Day or night, don't misss the Trevi Fountain. The Piazza Venezzia is huge. I loved the Tivoli Gardens. Rome was a sensory overload.

Best shopping was around the Mercato Centrale in Florence. To see what a really fine buttery-smooth leather jacket feels like take the leather factory tour in the back of the San Croce Church (don't miss this church in Florence where Michaeangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, etc. are buried)in Florence.

Rapallo/Portofino/Cinque Tierra were beautiful although expensive. I loved our quick stop in Pisa-excellent Duomo. The Dolomites in Bolzano were beautiful. Venice was super-hot and crowded but don't miss a gondola ride. It was touristy but an experience of a lifetime. The traghetti or vaporetto rides don't compare. St. Mark's Square at night with the many bands playing was a hoot! We took the #12 vaporetto out to Burano on a roundtrip just to cool off and a nice boat ride. Buy the 24 hr. pass for the best deal.<BR>

Food-underwhelming and over-rated in my opinion. Ate pasta everyday. Best deals are Menu Turistico-water or 1/2 liter wine, 1st, 2nd, 3rd courses, and sometimes even dessert. Look for price fix menus. Ate a lot at self service shops, bars, tavola caldas. If you sit down and order ala carte, expect to pay for your bread, water, coperto(cover) charge, servicio and whatever else they can add to your bill. Ate at the Hotel Metrapole in Venice which someone recommended here-$37.50 for a lousy buffet. Don't waste your money. Venice is expensive but look for a price fix menu.

Gypsies-no problem we saw a few near the train stations with there babies and looked them away. Never worried about pickpockets with my moneybelt. I never carried more than $10 in my pockets but felt paranoid whenever someone bumped me in a crowded bus or attraction. ATM's worked great everywhere. I was surprised not as many establishments accepted credit cards, certainly not the smaller shops and American Express even less so.

Gelato- a national as well as tourist passion. Gelato stands everywhere. I ate a gelato everyday and don't think I tried all the flavors. My favorites were riso at Gelateia della Palma behind the Pantheon in Rome, amarenta(cherry) and Coca Cola. Vivoli's in Florence was a major disappointment. Difficult to find near the San Croce Church, small selection, and chewy (not crispy rice) riso. Try them all. 4 scoops for about 2.5-3 euros.

Dress- where whatever you like. You can't hope to dress like the Italians. Women dress low-cut skimpy, see through, blouses, tight fitting pants or mini-skirts, high heels, thong panties. Sorry, didn't notice the clothes the guys were wearing. In this hot weather I'd recommend shorts and tennis shoes(cobble stone streets wear you out fast. Be sure to dress conservative when going to St. Peter's. People waited a half hour in line in the sun to enter there only to be turned away by the fashion police. Some tank tops got in but why take the chance. Everyone's been warned.

The Europeans push,shove, and cut to get to the front of lines. No such thing as common courtesy. Europeans, especially Germans and Africans smell like they've never bathed in their lives. Their B.O. was overpowering on the train etc. (Sorry to generalize). We were called "stupido" several times by shopkeepers when we didn't buy their wares. Some Italians were very friendly, many indifferent, some rude.

Toilets- 98% of the time they were referred to as "Toilette". Other 2% as W.C. Never saw or heard Gabinetto or bagno used. Some squatters. Many pay toilets (50 cents expected on entering for the cleaning person. We were cussed at for not having any change for a tip once. The pay toilets, at least, tended to be a little cleaner. Always carry extra Toilet Paper with you. Men and women toilets often back to back with a common wash area.

Overall we had a fabulous vacation, a trip of a lifetime. I don't think we will be returning to Italy anytime soon though, certainly not in the summer if we can help it. Italy is a historic country with incredible beauty, monuments, sculptures, paintings, frescoes etc. not to be missed. Again, these were my observations and opinions and I apologize if I offended anyone or demonstrated my ignorance. We tried not to be the "Ugly Americans" but frankly by the end of 3 weeks I was getting tired of being pushed around by the unruly crowds and started pushing back too.

Nice report Rocky. Thanks for sharing your experience with the tour option. How were your hotels by the way? Were they far outside the cities' central historical areas as most tour bashers lead you to expect?<BR><BR>Also, sorry to hear you didn't like the food. Going for the fixed price tourist menus may be a good deal, but you usually get far below standard food too. If you purposely go for the restaurants with menus only in Italian, or better yet, no printed menu & away from the tourist sites, you do a lot better!<BR><BR>Do share more specific details about your tour!

Mille grazie Rocky, I enjoyed your report because of your candor and the fact it was a tour. I have never taken a tour, but do get the Grand Circle mailings and they seem to have the best value per $. Next time go in May or Oct. for a better experience.

We stayed at the Visconti Palace Hotel in Rome, Anglo American Hotel in Rome, Europa Hotel in Rapallo, Park Laurin Hotel in Bolzano,and Continental Hotel in Venice. They were all 4 star hotels except the Continental (1 star) with full buffet breakfasts. We ate a hearty breakfast, quick lunch, late afternoon gelato and then dinner around 8 PM. The Continental, Europa, and Park Laurin were right in town. The Anglo American and Visconti about 12-18 minutes from the center of town. My friend wore supplex pants with zipoff pant legs from REI-great for hot weather and leg covering for Churches or dinner at night.

Also for music lovers-every night we were in Rome there was a concert at Piazza Navonna at 9 PM. I heard there were going to be a series of concerts at the Forum beginning July 15. Venice has Vivaldi concerts and of course the St. Marks groups. Carmen was playing in Verona while we were there. Fabulous opportunities. I was in Heaven

We ate at the Trattoria del Pallaro which everyone recommends. Somewhat difficult to find but in a square just south of Corso Victorio Emanuelle and east of Camo di Fiori. Great fixed price dinner for 18 euros with the friendliest staff around. The husband and wife owners/cooks come out to greet each customer. Home-cooking with a smile. Food was just OK- didn't knock my socks off. Found self service laundromats in Florence(many) and one in Bolzano. Did my laundry for 9 euros.

Venice was really old and dirty, crowded. The streets were very confusing, like a rat maze but it's OK to get lost and wander down the streets. Expensive but maneagable if you budget for it. Only a day and a half here and I was burt out with museusms and Churchs by then so skipped The Academia, Peggy Guggenheim, Doge's Palace too which I heard was great.