Trip Report: Switzerland, July '07
Aug 3rd, 2007, 11:36 AM
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Trip Report: Switzerland, July '07
I am back from my Swiss adventure! First of all I need to thank several people on this forum for their invaluable suggestions and help: BettyK, Bob Brown, Swandav, Enzian, Schuler, and others. The train system in Switzerland is first rate (even in second class). One does not really need a car in Switzerland. I bought a 2nd class 8-day consecutive Swiss Pass from BETS (Budget Europe Travel), and I must say the people I spoke to on the phone were so helpful, and even suggested to me that second class would be fine for what I was doing (and they were right). I traveled for 8 days solo and then joined a tour. This trip cured me of signing up for another tour (unless I go to China or India). There was such a sense of adventure taking the trains to my next destination. Hotels were booked many months in advance; I requested view rooms – and what views I had!!
My report will focus on my 8-day solo journey as well as a mention of some independent day trips I took while on tour. I was gone for a total of 3 weeks, and visited 5 countries within the alpine region.
July 2: Arrived in Zurich around 1:00 pm, a grueling flight from Los Angeles with one change in Frankfurt. Found the train station below with no problems, validated my Swiss Pass, asked the ticket person to print a schedule to Stein am Rhein, and I was on my way. I must say that everything that day unfolded as if I were in a movie and I was the director. When I got to the trains, I was a little confused about where to stand. From that moment forward I found my courage to ask people for a little guidance. I found that people were more than willing to help, even if they spoke little or no English. The first person I asked happened to be British and she, in 3 minutes or less, explained the whole system (the number on the cars, the sectors, the signs, etc. I was set for the rest of my trip! I wish I could thank her again right now! On the train from Zurich Airport to Winterthur, I met a Swiss woman who had spent most of her life in New Zealand, so she spoke perfect English; she had recently moved back to Switzerland and gave me several insider tips. I changed to an S-Bahn to Stein Am Rhein. From the station at Stein (which was deserted), I found my way intuitively to the bridge I had seen in so many online photo albums, and felt as if I had been transported into a fairytale. What an experience! I found my hotel (Rheinfells – first one on the left after I crossed the bridge), checked in, and went up to my room on the 3rd floor to discover an amazing view of the Rhein from my window. I was in paradise. The room itself was quite charming – lots of old dark wood beams next to a muted pink floral wallpaper—tiny print, tastefully chosen. But the real draw was that VIEW!! You will see it in my photo album.
I walked about the village that afternoon snapping too many photos. I was like a child in a fairy wonderland. The only thing that dampened that experience a bit was the stadium seating that had been set up in the town square for an upcoming pageant or play commemorating the 1000-year history of Stein Am Rhein.
Here is a link to a web page I created with iWeb:
http://web.mac.com/susanbowen1/iWeb/...bout%20Me.html
From here you can also access my entire Switzerland photo album.
Or go to
http://susanbowen.smugmug.com/gallery/3233695
Report to be continued….
My report will focus on my 8-day solo journey as well as a mention of some independent day trips I took while on tour. I was gone for a total of 3 weeks, and visited 5 countries within the alpine region.
July 2: Arrived in Zurich around 1:00 pm, a grueling flight from Los Angeles with one change in Frankfurt. Found the train station below with no problems, validated my Swiss Pass, asked the ticket person to print a schedule to Stein am Rhein, and I was on my way. I must say that everything that day unfolded as if I were in a movie and I was the director. When I got to the trains, I was a little confused about where to stand. From that moment forward I found my courage to ask people for a little guidance. I found that people were more than willing to help, even if they spoke little or no English. The first person I asked happened to be British and she, in 3 minutes or less, explained the whole system (the number on the cars, the sectors, the signs, etc. I was set for the rest of my trip! I wish I could thank her again right now! On the train from Zurich Airport to Winterthur, I met a Swiss woman who had spent most of her life in New Zealand, so she spoke perfect English; she had recently moved back to Switzerland and gave me several insider tips. I changed to an S-Bahn to Stein Am Rhein. From the station at Stein (which was deserted), I found my way intuitively to the bridge I had seen in so many online photo albums, and felt as if I had been transported into a fairytale. What an experience! I found my hotel (Rheinfells – first one on the left after I crossed the bridge), checked in, and went up to my room on the 3rd floor to discover an amazing view of the Rhein from my window. I was in paradise. The room itself was quite charming – lots of old dark wood beams next to a muted pink floral wallpaper—tiny print, tastefully chosen. But the real draw was that VIEW!! You will see it in my photo album.
I walked about the village that afternoon snapping too many photos. I was like a child in a fairy wonderland. The only thing that dampened that experience a bit was the stadium seating that had been set up in the town square for an upcoming pageant or play commemorating the 1000-year history of Stein Am Rhein.
Here is a link to a web page I created with iWeb:
http://web.mac.com/susanbowen1/iWeb/...bout%20Me.html
From here you can also access my entire Switzerland photo album.
Or go to
http://susanbowen.smugmug.com/gallery/3233695
Report to be continued….
Aug 3rd, 2007, 12:15 PM
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July 3: That morning I asked the hotel owner about the stadium seating that been set up in the village; he gave me a brochure, all in German, and explained in broken English about the pageant which would begin the following weekend (after I would have left), and would continue for four weeks. The play would celebrate the 1000-year anniversary of Stein Am Rhein, and include a depiction of the battle between the townspeople and Napolean’s army. The townspeople defeated Napolean, he said with a gleam in his eyes.
I walked around town that morning, having recovered somewhat from jetlag and the time difference, and was just amazed by the beautiful 15th-century frescoes painted on most of the houses in the main square--truly an extraordinary sight. BettyK was right when she said the town square “has to be seen to be believed.” And, of course, charming flower boxes were everywhere. I attempted to hike up to the castle, which hotel staff said was closed, due to renovation. Half way up the road, I ended up turning around. The road was steep and I forgot to pack a water bottle. It was quite warm; I was in a t-shirt at that point. But I had a chance to experience rural scenes just outside the town, so all was not lost. There were fields of sunflowers amidst the rolling green hills - just a wonderful walk.
Later, I stopped in a chocolate shop in town for some in-house chocolate truffles. Excellent, but the ones I had later from Sprungli in Zurich were even better!
I also took a stroll along the river. There is a pedestrian pathway that extends to a park. Just lovely. I didn’t hear another American (or British) voice the entire time I was in Stein. Many tourists, but they all spoke German. I saw two couples traveling together at my hotel, who all had on their cycling gear. I got that they were traveling from village to village via bicycles--and I thought I was adventurous! Next time, I will definitely rent a bike from the station. There are some lovely bike paths along the river. That evening I dined at my hotel. I had fresh perch from the river. It was very good; maybe not outstanding.
I walked around town that morning, having recovered somewhat from jetlag and the time difference, and was just amazed by the beautiful 15th-century frescoes painted on most of the houses in the main square--truly an extraordinary sight. BettyK was right when she said the town square “has to be seen to be believed.” And, of course, charming flower boxes were everywhere. I attempted to hike up to the castle, which hotel staff said was closed, due to renovation. Half way up the road, I ended up turning around. The road was steep and I forgot to pack a water bottle. It was quite warm; I was in a t-shirt at that point. But I had a chance to experience rural scenes just outside the town, so all was not lost. There were fields of sunflowers amidst the rolling green hills - just a wonderful walk.
Later, I stopped in a chocolate shop in town for some in-house chocolate truffles. Excellent, but the ones I had later from Sprungli in Zurich were even better!
I also took a stroll along the river. There is a pedestrian pathway that extends to a park. Just lovely. I didn’t hear another American (or British) voice the entire time I was in Stein. Many tourists, but they all spoke German. I saw two couples traveling together at my hotel, who all had on their cycling gear. I got that they were traveling from village to village via bicycles--and I thought I was adventurous! Next time, I will definitely rent a bike from the station. There are some lovely bike paths along the river. That evening I dined at my hotel. I had fresh perch from the river. It was very good; maybe not outstanding.
Aug 3rd, 2007, 12:39 PM
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Hi susan001 
First, your photos are absolutely gorgeous!
My experience in Switzerland has mostly been in the BO and Zermatt areas; however, after my DH and I just viewed your magnificent photos, it is now on our "must see" list. I will closely follow your travels here with delightful interest!
Thank you!
First, your photos are absolutely gorgeous!
My experience in Switzerland has mostly been in the BO and Zermatt areas; however, after my DH and I just viewed your magnificent photos, it is now on our "must see" list. I will closely follow your travels here with delightful interest!
Thank you!
Aug 3rd, 2007, 02:26 PM
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Susan, I'm just so glad that you were able to make it to Stein am Rhein. Your photos are magnificent. I felt like I was walking right along the river with you. I remember that lovely little park and the children's playground. I fed many a duck and swan along that stretch of the river!
Aug 3rd, 2007, 02:33 PM
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Thanks so much, Betty! If it hadn't been for you I never would have known about this perfectly-preserved Medieval village.
July 4: The clouds had cleared in Stein am Rhein and it was a beautiful morning. I walked into the square to take a few more photos before checking out of my hotel. Then, I was off to Lucerne.
I recall the train transfers not being so simple on this day. First off, Zurich main station was a bit overwhelming after having been in much smaller, easier stations. Also, the platform listed on my Internet printout (from rail.ch) was incorrect, so I wandered around looking for a sign that said Luzern. I found it, but asked a woman who was waiting there to be sure.
When I left the Luzern train station it was pouring down rain. I stopped to pull out my umbrella, and later, at my hotel, feared my rail pass had fallen out (That would have ended up costing me a bundle). But alas, I had left it at the check in counter at the hotel in Luzern. They returned it to me later on. On my walk to the Des Balances Hotel in the pouring rain from the station, I passed large groups of Americans, who were somewhat loud…. Suddenly the charm I had experienced in Stein AR quickly dissipated and I was confronted with hoards of American tourists in the center of Luzern.
But once I checked into the lovely hotel and got out on my balcony (see photos for views), I was completely charmed. My balcony overlooked the River Reuss and all the charming bridges, mountains and buildings that can be seen from there. It was raining, I had a covered balcony with a fantastic view, and a refrigerator with a refreshing beverage. I was set. I stayed and relaxed on my balcony for about an hour, and then later went out to take photos, and found a pizza for take out. What a pleasure to sit on that balcony with a great take out meal!
I also went to the Rosengart Art Museum that day, which is located on the other side of the River. They must have the largest collection of Picassos anywhere (at least the largest collection I’ve seen in one place). The following week (I came back to Lucerne a week later to meet my tour group), I went to the Picasso Museum, which is largely a photographic collection of the artist, but well worth seeing. Seeing both collections enhanced my appreciation of the artist’s work and gave me a clearer understanding of his life and work during the 50s.
It was the 4th of July, it occurred to me more than once, but I was having a spectacular day even without fireworks (which I was later treated to in France on Bastille Day).
I only stayed one night at the Des Balances, and then moved on to the Berner Oberland.
To be continued...
July 4: The clouds had cleared in Stein am Rhein and it was a beautiful morning. I walked into the square to take a few more photos before checking out of my hotel. Then, I was off to Lucerne.
I recall the train transfers not being so simple on this day. First off, Zurich main station was a bit overwhelming after having been in much smaller, easier stations. Also, the platform listed on my Internet printout (from rail.ch) was incorrect, so I wandered around looking for a sign that said Luzern. I found it, but asked a woman who was waiting there to be sure.
When I left the Luzern train station it was pouring down rain. I stopped to pull out my umbrella, and later, at my hotel, feared my rail pass had fallen out (That would have ended up costing me a bundle). But alas, I had left it at the check in counter at the hotel in Luzern. They returned it to me later on. On my walk to the Des Balances Hotel in the pouring rain from the station, I passed large groups of Americans, who were somewhat loud…. Suddenly the charm I had experienced in Stein AR quickly dissipated and I was confronted with hoards of American tourists in the center of Luzern.
But once I checked into the lovely hotel and got out on my balcony (see photos for views), I was completely charmed. My balcony overlooked the River Reuss and all the charming bridges, mountains and buildings that can be seen from there. It was raining, I had a covered balcony with a fantastic view, and a refrigerator with a refreshing beverage. I was set. I stayed and relaxed on my balcony for about an hour, and then later went out to take photos, and found a pizza for take out. What a pleasure to sit on that balcony with a great take out meal!
I also went to the Rosengart Art Museum that day, which is located on the other side of the River. They must have the largest collection of Picassos anywhere (at least the largest collection I’ve seen in one place). The following week (I came back to Lucerne a week later to meet my tour group), I went to the Picasso Museum, which is largely a photographic collection of the artist, but well worth seeing. Seeing both collections enhanced my appreciation of the artist’s work and gave me a clearer understanding of his life and work during the 50s.
It was the 4th of July, it occurred to me more than once, but I was having a spectacular day even without fireworks (which I was later treated to in France on Bastille Day).
I only stayed one night at the Des Balances, and then moved on to the Berner Oberland.
To be continued...
Aug 3rd, 2007, 05:19 PM
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July 5: I took the Golden Panoramic train from Lucerne to Interlaken Ost, and was mesmerized by the BEAUTIFUL views. The train was not crowded at all; in fact at one point I practically had a car all to myself! The train passed by one quaint town after another all surrounded by lush green hills and mountains. I wanted to get off at some of these towns, but I had luggage with me and a hotel to get to in Murren.
At Interlaken Ost, I made the change to the Sector 2A train to Lauterbrunnen. I met several Americans during this portion of the trip who were asking ME where to get off and how to get to Wengen. I had never been to the area myself, but helped best I could with what information I had studied previously. Then I got on the bus to Schtechlberg and took that “airplane” lift up to Murren. That was a scary ride for me (the new one—I discovered later--on the other end of the valley from Lauterbrunnen to Grutschalp is very well engineered and not as scary).
I arrived in Murren, which was covered in fog, to discover my hotel, Alpenruh, right there next to the lift station. I checked in and went to my room, looked out my “view” windows and saw nothing but fog. I went back downstairs to send an email, telling my friends and family, that while I have a lovely, cozy room at my hotel, I couldn’t see a thing for the fog. I sent the email, and came back to my room to discover the fog had cleared, and my jaw dropped open. WOW, UNBELIEVABLE, I think I uttered outloud. I went back downstairs and sent a ps, saying something like “you all must come here; you won’t believe this view.”
I stared in disbelief for a while, had dinner at the hotel, and then took a walk through town, totally in awe of the “in-your-face” panoramic mountains before me in the light of dusk. It’s a wonderful memory.
July 6: I met two nice guys from Geneva during breakfast at the hotel. I told them about my trip itinerary and they encouraged me to spend half a day in Annecy (while staying there) and then get over to the village of Talloire, also on the Lake. They weren’t sure how I would get there without a car, but suggested I might take a bus. I mention this now because I will be writing about Annecy and Talloire later.
It was overcast, but not raining, so I bundled up and decided to go over to Wengen. Once there, I strolled around taking pictures, and then decided to buy a ticket up to Mannlichen. I figured the hike was out since it was so cold and overcast, but thought I would at least check out the views up there, so bought a round trip ticket (by the way, this is the first time on the trip I had to pay for a ticket, since the Swiss pass covered most all trains and lifts in the area. However there are a few on the Wengen side that are not covered (and the Schilthorn gondola from Murren is not covered). That said, I was able to get a 50% discount with my pass. It was a good deal all around, I thought.
On the gondola up to Mannlichen I talked with a British woman who told me the trail to Kleine Schiedegg was fairly easy, not much uphill, so I set out to try it, and before I knew it (and about 50 photos later), I was in Kleine Schiedegg, buying a train ticket to Wengen (also not covered by the Swiss pass, but still 50% off). It was GREAT hike and I never felt one drop of rain. You will see from my photos that I still had a great view of the Eiger all the way.
The train from KS to Wengen was very crowded with people who had been up to the Jungfraujoch. I was relieved to finally get to the Lauterbrunnen lift up to Grutschalp, and then back to Murren.
I had a great fondue dinner that night at the Hotel Blumenthal’s outdoor restaurant. It was so nice to sit outdoors and people watch while I had this traditional dish.
At Interlaken Ost, I made the change to the Sector 2A train to Lauterbrunnen. I met several Americans during this portion of the trip who were asking ME where to get off and how to get to Wengen. I had never been to the area myself, but helped best I could with what information I had studied previously. Then I got on the bus to Schtechlberg and took that “airplane” lift up to Murren. That was a scary ride for me (the new one—I discovered later--on the other end of the valley from Lauterbrunnen to Grutschalp is very well engineered and not as scary).
I arrived in Murren, which was covered in fog, to discover my hotel, Alpenruh, right there next to the lift station. I checked in and went to my room, looked out my “view” windows and saw nothing but fog. I went back downstairs to send an email, telling my friends and family, that while I have a lovely, cozy room at my hotel, I couldn’t see a thing for the fog. I sent the email, and came back to my room to discover the fog had cleared, and my jaw dropped open. WOW, UNBELIEVABLE, I think I uttered outloud. I went back downstairs and sent a ps, saying something like “you all must come here; you won’t believe this view.”
I stared in disbelief for a while, had dinner at the hotel, and then took a walk through town, totally in awe of the “in-your-face” panoramic mountains before me in the light of dusk. It’s a wonderful memory.
July 6: I met two nice guys from Geneva during breakfast at the hotel. I told them about my trip itinerary and they encouraged me to spend half a day in Annecy (while staying there) and then get over to the village of Talloire, also on the Lake. They weren’t sure how I would get there without a car, but suggested I might take a bus. I mention this now because I will be writing about Annecy and Talloire later.
It was overcast, but not raining, so I bundled up and decided to go over to Wengen. Once there, I strolled around taking pictures, and then decided to buy a ticket up to Mannlichen. I figured the hike was out since it was so cold and overcast, but thought I would at least check out the views up there, so bought a round trip ticket (by the way, this is the first time on the trip I had to pay for a ticket, since the Swiss pass covered most all trains and lifts in the area. However there are a few on the Wengen side that are not covered (and the Schilthorn gondola from Murren is not covered). That said, I was able to get a 50% discount with my pass. It was a good deal all around, I thought.
On the gondola up to Mannlichen I talked with a British woman who told me the trail to Kleine Schiedegg was fairly easy, not much uphill, so I set out to try it, and before I knew it (and about 50 photos later), I was in Kleine Schiedegg, buying a train ticket to Wengen (also not covered by the Swiss pass, but still 50% off). It was GREAT hike and I never felt one drop of rain. You will see from my photos that I still had a great view of the Eiger all the way.
The train from KS to Wengen was very crowded with people who had been up to the Jungfraujoch. I was relieved to finally get to the Lauterbrunnen lift up to Grutschalp, and then back to Murren.
I had a great fondue dinner that night at the Hotel Blumenthal’s outdoor restaurant. It was so nice to sit outdoors and people watch while I had this traditional dish.
Aug 3rd, 2007, 07:27 PM
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I really enjoyed looking at your pictures of Switzerland and especially the Berner Oberland. It turns out that we were there at the same time staying in Wengen. We did the hike from Manlichen to Kleine Scheidegg (I just love saying Kleine Scheidegg) on July 5th and when we got off the gondola at the top of Manlichen it was snowing! We walked to KS and took the train down to Grindelwald since the weather was not great. The views from the train to and from Grindelwald were spectacular.
Since the weather was so bad on the 5th, we decided to go back up to Manlichen on July 6 and do the hike again and were hoping the weather would clear enough to make the trip to the Jungfraujoch worthwhile, but no luck. Its very possible we were on the trail or in KS at the same time.
We went to the Schilthorn on July 7, the one totally sunny day we had while in the Berner Oberland. We were having lunch in Murren when I went to put a new roll of film in my camera and found I could no longer activate the motor that opens the film compartment (time to go digital?). Which brings me to the point of this whole thing. I thought your pictures were excellent and was wondering what kind of camera you are using.
Looking forward to hearing about the rest of your trip.
Since the weather was so bad on the 5th, we decided to go back up to Manlichen on July 6 and do the hike again and were hoping the weather would clear enough to make the trip to the Jungfraujoch worthwhile, but no luck. Its very possible we were on the trail or in KS at the same time.
We went to the Schilthorn on July 7, the one totally sunny day we had while in the Berner Oberland. We were having lunch in Murren when I went to put a new roll of film in my camera and found I could no longer activate the motor that opens the film compartment (time to go digital?). Which brings me to the point of this whole thing. I thought your pictures were excellent and was wondering what kind of camera you are using.
Looking forward to hearing about the rest of your trip.
Aug 3rd, 2007, 08:24 PM
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Sebinah,
Thank you for your kind remarks about my pictures. My camera is a Canon G7, purchased especially for this trip, and I'm so happy with the results. It's a fully manual portable camera, but can also be set to auto. I used the P mode quite a bit and then set the ISO manually.
I also went to the Schilthorn on the 7th. We may have been up there at the same time. What a glorious day that was! I went up with the first lift at 7:50 and stayed until about 11, or so. Here's more of the report:
July 7: I woke up early to clear skies! It was sunny and warm, so I quickly got ready to board the Schilthornbahn to have breakfast at the Piz Gloria. All went as planned and I arrived to find breathtaking views, and plenty of available tables for breakfast. There was a lovely buffet there (and since I was staying at the Alpenruh, I got a voucher for a free breakfast there), but the real draw was those 360 degree views. Really spectacular.
After breakfast, I spent a good deal of time on the terrace taking pictures. I couldn’t have asked for better weather; it was clear and sunny with great visibility. I met a lot of nice people on the terrace, some Swiss, some American – They took my photo, I took theirs. Everyone seemed to be in state of true joy.
After returning to Murren, I took a little rest break on my balcony, photographed some hang-gliders drifting right over the cliff into the Lauterbrunnen Valley (a real show from my balcony!), and then set out to do the hike between Grutschalp to Murren. What a glorious day to do that hike! As my photos attest, there was barely a cloud in the sky, and beautiful views of the recently snow-capped Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains. I encountered cows and goats along the way and was just enchanted by the sights and sounds of summer in the alps.
When I returned to my hotel, I rested for a bit and then took the lift down to Gimmelwald. I enjoyed walking around and seeing the place Rick Steves has raved about but I have to say it was like a ghost town at 5 pm. I think I saw one teenage boy operating a tractor, and a couple out for a stroll (Americans, I’m guessing), and that was it. Very quiet. I agree with the Lonely Planet guidebook that the views are actually better from Murren. Gimmelwald certainly has its own charm, but I never did see the restaurant next to the youth hostel people have written about. As I said, it seemed like a ghost town. I went into that alp cheese and sausage shop inside Esther’s B and B, but no one was there minding the store. I guess everyone was inside their homes preparing meals.
I took the lift back to Murren and had dinner at my hotel: Traditional Swiss - Rosti with an egg on top. It was fine, but not outstanding.
Thank you for your kind remarks about my pictures. My camera is a Canon G7, purchased especially for this trip, and I'm so happy with the results. It's a fully manual portable camera, but can also be set to auto. I used the P mode quite a bit and then set the ISO manually.
I also went to the Schilthorn on the 7th. We may have been up there at the same time. What a glorious day that was! I went up with the first lift at 7:50 and stayed until about 11, or so. Here's more of the report:
July 7: I woke up early to clear skies! It was sunny and warm, so I quickly got ready to board the Schilthornbahn to have breakfast at the Piz Gloria. All went as planned and I arrived to find breathtaking views, and plenty of available tables for breakfast. There was a lovely buffet there (and since I was staying at the Alpenruh, I got a voucher for a free breakfast there), but the real draw was those 360 degree views. Really spectacular.
After breakfast, I spent a good deal of time on the terrace taking pictures. I couldn’t have asked for better weather; it was clear and sunny with great visibility. I met a lot of nice people on the terrace, some Swiss, some American – They took my photo, I took theirs. Everyone seemed to be in state of true joy.
After returning to Murren, I took a little rest break on my balcony, photographed some hang-gliders drifting right over the cliff into the Lauterbrunnen Valley (a real show from my balcony!), and then set out to do the hike between Grutschalp to Murren. What a glorious day to do that hike! As my photos attest, there was barely a cloud in the sky, and beautiful views of the recently snow-capped Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains. I encountered cows and goats along the way and was just enchanted by the sights and sounds of summer in the alps.
When I returned to my hotel, I rested for a bit and then took the lift down to Gimmelwald. I enjoyed walking around and seeing the place Rick Steves has raved about but I have to say it was like a ghost town at 5 pm. I think I saw one teenage boy operating a tractor, and a couple out for a stroll (Americans, I’m guessing), and that was it. Very quiet. I agree with the Lonely Planet guidebook that the views are actually better from Murren. Gimmelwald certainly has its own charm, but I never did see the restaurant next to the youth hostel people have written about. As I said, it seemed like a ghost town. I went into that alp cheese and sausage shop inside Esther’s B and B, but no one was there minding the store. I guess everyone was inside their homes preparing meals.
I took the lift back to Murren and had dinner at my hotel: Traditional Swiss - Rosti with an egg on top. It was fine, but not outstanding.
Aug 3rd, 2007, 10:17 PM
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Very interesting report and great photographs, thank you. Brought back memories of my brief stay at Stein am Rhein in 1986. The town was accidentally bombed by the Allies in the last months of WWII and there is a poignant reminder in the cemetery (beautifully kept as they all tend to be in that part of the world, just behind the town.
That incident and other bombings of Swiss territory are recounted at -
<http://www.airpower.maxwell.af.mil/a...reich.html>
That incident and other bombings of Swiss territory are recounted at -
<http://www.airpower.maxwell.af.mil/a...reich.html>
Aug 3rd, 2007, 11:53 PM
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Very nice camera work. I'm impressed!
We were in Murren about 5 weeks before you, stayed at the very same hotel. Thanks for sharing your memories.
Betty is a wonderful resource for these places, she helped me too!
MvK
We were in Murren about 5 weeks before you, stayed at the very same hotel. Thanks for sharing your memories.
Betty is a wonderful resource for these places, she helped me too!
MvK
Aug 4th, 2007, 04:38 AM
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Ahhh, the views from Murren are breathtaking, aren't they? We were lucky to stay there last summer, and I must admit it was hard to leave the hotel balcony. Absolutely stunning!
My heart skips a beat when I gaze upon the beautiful Eiger, walking from Mannlichen to KS, and then to Wengen. And then there's the Schilthorn. Can you believe there is so much beauty in this region?
I'm truly enjoying your report. It's the first thing I looked for this morning!
My heart skips a beat when I gaze upon the beautiful Eiger, walking from Mannlichen to KS, and then to Wengen. And then there's the Schilthorn. Can you believe there is so much beauty in this region?
I'm truly enjoying your report. It's the first thing I looked for this morning!
Aug 4th, 2007, 10:09 AM
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Thank you, farremog, Mark, barbmike and kopp. I appreciate your feedback. Farremog, I walked by that graveyard you mention and even took a picture, but left it out of the gallery. Maybe I should put it in. Thanks for the info on the allied bombings. I had heard about that, but didn't know the details.
Here is more of the report:
July 8: I had to check out of my lovely view room this morning and move on to my next destination: Spiez, on lake Thun. I still remember taking care of my bill with Simone, a receptionist at the Alpenruh. She’s a gentle soul – so sweet and helpful. She even asked where I would be going next (and kindly corrected my pronunciation of the town – spee-ets’ –not speeez)
I easily made my way to my next destination, with several changes. Murren to Schtechlberg via lift, bus to Lauterbrunnen, train from Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken Ost, IO to Spiez. I was there in two hours.
But when I got off the train it was pouring down rain in Spiez; it had been sunny in Murren that very morning, and I had packed my umbrella in my suitcase thinking I wouldn't need it. At least I had my rain jacket in my backpack. So I set out to find my hotel on the marina in the downpour. Later, I regretted not looking for a cab at the station. It’s a good little walk down to the harbor from the station and I was a bit confused about which street led down to the castle. So, luggage in tow, and no umbrella, I braved the rain and managed to find the main street and then side street leading to my hotel. When I walked in I was drenched. It was 11:30 and of course my room was not ready. I had planned with the reception desk (over email) to store my luggage with them and take one of the ferries over to Oberhofen and Thun to see the castles. Of course, with this weather, I wasn’t sure I wanted to follow through with that plan.
The receptionist handed me the ferry schedule and I could see that it was different from the online schedule (which had a ferry leaving at 12:30). On the printed schedule for summer, it indicated that a ferry would be leaving Spiez only at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. Meanwhile, the hotel manager noticed that I was a bit wet from my walk in the pouring rain, so about 20 minutes later, the receptionist informed me my room was ready and she took me up there (very nice service).
I had a nice little single room with a balcony and view of the little harbor there. When I first arrived, I could see a mountain in the background, which then receded in the mist. The hotel – The Seegarten Marina – was a little like a Swiss Holiday Inn, but very clean and nice with a lovely (and private) balcony. The food in the hotel restaurant was very good, and I had a charming waiter there.
After changing out of my wet clothing and resting up a bit, I decided to take the 1:30 ferry to Oberhofen, rain or no rain.
The ferry landing is a very short walk up from the hotel along the marina. My Swiss rail pass was good for all the ferry rides here, so I didn’t need to stop and buy a ticket. I managed to find a seat outside under cover from the weather, and enjoyed the trip over very much. It took about 25 minutes to get to Oberhofen. I was delighted when the ferry neared the castle at Oberhofen. I had seen pictures of this place, but it was a thrill to actually see it. I took most of my photos of this beautiful structure from the landing area after I got off the ferry. And there were those geraniums (in planters along the landing) I had seen in the foreground of a guidebook photo.
The inside of the castle is as enchanting as the outside. I think Lonely Planet must be right – this is the “best of the bunch” (best castle on Lake Thun). When I entered, I heard the lovely, yet haunting sound of a live flute. I followed the sound to a flautist perched in a main corridor playing with sheet music. It was a wonderful touch, and the sound wafted its way throughout the massive interior.
I took a few photos inside which you will see in my photo gallery, but I especially enjoyed the room with the armor, chain mail and medieval weapons. Also interesting was the Turkish smoking room.
The grounds around the castle are also beautiful, especially the one behind the castle, with views to the lake.
After visiting the castle, I decided to look for an art museum, which had been mentioned in one of my guidebooks. I managed to find it (not far from the castle), after asking two helpful people, and once again gained entry for free with my Swiss pass (museums included).
The owners or managers of the gallery did not speak English but they understood I was looking for the Chagalls and Matisses that were mentioned in my guidebook. They explained in limited English that those paintings had been sent off to another location, and that the gallery now had paintings by contemporary Swiss artists. I was a little disappointed, but the exhibition was interesting all the same. I wish I could have understood the German description of each work. I would have liked to know what medium was used in some cases -- some really interesting pieces there.
By the time I got back to the castle grounds after visiting the gallery, I had missed the next ferry out, so had to wait another half hour for the ride to Thun. When I got to Thun, I got off the boat to verify the schedule at the ticket window. The fellow there spoke enough English to explain that the last ferry back to Spiez would be leaving in 12 minutes. So much for Thun! The Swiss-New Zealand woman that I had met on the train to Stein am Rhein had told me she loved Thun and had lived and worked there for a time. Oh well. My energy was pretty spent at that point anyway, so I got back on the ferry. Thun will have to be saved for another trip, I thought.
I had a wonderful fresh fish dinner (caught in Lake Thun) at my hotel that evening. The waiter was delightful, the food great, and I even had company. Seated next to me was a woman from Holland who was traveling solo. We had a nice chat. She told me she was traveling via bicycle! And I thought I was being adventurous!
To be continued….
Here is more of the report:
July 8: I had to check out of my lovely view room this morning and move on to my next destination: Spiez, on lake Thun. I still remember taking care of my bill with Simone, a receptionist at the Alpenruh. She’s a gentle soul – so sweet and helpful. She even asked where I would be going next (and kindly corrected my pronunciation of the town – spee-ets’ –not speeez)
I easily made my way to my next destination, with several changes. Murren to Schtechlberg via lift, bus to Lauterbrunnen, train from Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken Ost, IO to Spiez. I was there in two hours.
But when I got off the train it was pouring down rain in Spiez; it had been sunny in Murren that very morning, and I had packed my umbrella in my suitcase thinking I wouldn't need it. At least I had my rain jacket in my backpack. So I set out to find my hotel on the marina in the downpour. Later, I regretted not looking for a cab at the station. It’s a good little walk down to the harbor from the station and I was a bit confused about which street led down to the castle. So, luggage in tow, and no umbrella, I braved the rain and managed to find the main street and then side street leading to my hotel. When I walked in I was drenched. It was 11:30 and of course my room was not ready. I had planned with the reception desk (over email) to store my luggage with them and take one of the ferries over to Oberhofen and Thun to see the castles. Of course, with this weather, I wasn’t sure I wanted to follow through with that plan.
The receptionist handed me the ferry schedule and I could see that it was different from the online schedule (which had a ferry leaving at 12:30). On the printed schedule for summer, it indicated that a ferry would be leaving Spiez only at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. Meanwhile, the hotel manager noticed that I was a bit wet from my walk in the pouring rain, so about 20 minutes later, the receptionist informed me my room was ready and she took me up there (very nice service).
I had a nice little single room with a balcony and view of the little harbor there. When I first arrived, I could see a mountain in the background, which then receded in the mist. The hotel – The Seegarten Marina – was a little like a Swiss Holiday Inn, but very clean and nice with a lovely (and private) balcony. The food in the hotel restaurant was very good, and I had a charming waiter there.
After changing out of my wet clothing and resting up a bit, I decided to take the 1:30 ferry to Oberhofen, rain or no rain.
The ferry landing is a very short walk up from the hotel along the marina. My Swiss rail pass was good for all the ferry rides here, so I didn’t need to stop and buy a ticket. I managed to find a seat outside under cover from the weather, and enjoyed the trip over very much. It took about 25 minutes to get to Oberhofen. I was delighted when the ferry neared the castle at Oberhofen. I had seen pictures of this place, but it was a thrill to actually see it. I took most of my photos of this beautiful structure from the landing area after I got off the ferry. And there were those geraniums (in planters along the landing) I had seen in the foreground of a guidebook photo.
The inside of the castle is as enchanting as the outside. I think Lonely Planet must be right – this is the “best of the bunch” (best castle on Lake Thun). When I entered, I heard the lovely, yet haunting sound of a live flute. I followed the sound to a flautist perched in a main corridor playing with sheet music. It was a wonderful touch, and the sound wafted its way throughout the massive interior.
I took a few photos inside which you will see in my photo gallery, but I especially enjoyed the room with the armor, chain mail and medieval weapons. Also interesting was the Turkish smoking room.
The grounds around the castle are also beautiful, especially the one behind the castle, with views to the lake.
After visiting the castle, I decided to look for an art museum, which had been mentioned in one of my guidebooks. I managed to find it (not far from the castle), after asking two helpful people, and once again gained entry for free with my Swiss pass (museums included).
The owners or managers of the gallery did not speak English but they understood I was looking for the Chagalls and Matisses that were mentioned in my guidebook. They explained in limited English that those paintings had been sent off to another location, and that the gallery now had paintings by contemporary Swiss artists. I was a little disappointed, but the exhibition was interesting all the same. I wish I could have understood the German description of each work. I would have liked to know what medium was used in some cases -- some really interesting pieces there.
By the time I got back to the castle grounds after visiting the gallery, I had missed the next ferry out, so had to wait another half hour for the ride to Thun. When I got to Thun, I got off the boat to verify the schedule at the ticket window. The fellow there spoke enough English to explain that the last ferry back to Spiez would be leaving in 12 minutes. So much for Thun! The Swiss-New Zealand woman that I had met on the train to Stein am Rhein had told me she loved Thun and had lived and worked there for a time. Oh well. My energy was pretty spent at that point anyway, so I got back on the ferry. Thun will have to be saved for another trip, I thought.
I had a wonderful fresh fish dinner (caught in Lake Thun) at my hotel that evening. The waiter was delightful, the food great, and I even had company. Seated next to me was a woman from Holland who was traveling solo. We had a nice chat. She told me she was traveling via bicycle! And I thought I was being adventurous!
To be continued….
Aug 4th, 2007, 11:43 AM
#16
Gruezi Susan,
Glad you had a marvelous time. Isn't Switzerland beautiful? I just met a group of Mennonite/Baptists on the train between Andermatt and Sedrun. We were discussing their religious roots (found in Switzerland and Germany) and the beauty of the country. The view was fabulous and there wasn't a cloud in the sky.
I would have liked to continue our discussion but we got off in Oberalp and rode our bikes down to Ilanz. Also stunning (especially the small towns along the way) but we were riding in the woods a lot so we missed out on some of the gorgeous beauty surrounding us.
Glad you had a marvelous time. Isn't Switzerland beautiful? I just met a group of Mennonite/Baptists on the train between Andermatt and Sedrun. We were discussing their religious roots (found in Switzerland and Germany) and the beauty of the country. The view was fabulous and there wasn't a cloud in the sky.
I would have liked to continue our discussion but we got off in Oberalp and rode our bikes down to Ilanz. Also stunning (especially the small towns along the way) but we were riding in the woods a lot so we missed out on some of the gorgeous beauty surrounding us.
Aug 4th, 2007, 12:38 PM
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I just noticed the link to my little web page seems to be dead. All the photos on the page are also in the photo gallery, but if you want an abbreviated view, let's try this again:
http://web.mac.com/susanbowen1/iWeb/...bout%20Me.html
http://web.mac.com/susanbowen1/iWeb/...bout%20Me.html
Aug 4th, 2007, 03:43 PM
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I'm loving your trip report and the pics are wonderful. I have a question, where were you in all the mountain scenes, around photos 180s to 200s. Is there a way to see the title of each photo?
I am off to Zurich, Luzern and maybe Heidiland (then a 12 day med cruise) at the end of this month
I am off to Zurich, Luzern and maybe Heidiland (then a 12 day med cruise) at the end of this month
