I hadn't forgotten this trip report but have been too busy to write. Anyway the last two stages - this one was four nights on Costa Blanca North: Costa Blanca North Trip Report

After the week in Torrevieja we went to the north part of Costa Blanca for a few days. We avoided Benidorm but driving up to Denia we stopped off at Guadalest. It’s a charming little village and on this splendid early February morning it was also totally deserted and superbly picturesque. Who could resist? We wandered and took the ‘usual’ photos and then invested in a ticket to visit the ‘castle’ – basically Casa Orduna and the highest part of Guadalest including the cemetery. The house is worth a visit in itself, but of course the best part is to go up to the cemetery and then the limited ruins of the castle – the views are superb.





We picnicked and had a coffee in Guadalest, and then we made a mistake….we decided to take the scenic route to Denia around the reservoir and through the hills. This was a stupid thing to do, we discovered when we were well on our way, wrongly encouraged by a Dutch camper van coming in the opposite direction. The ‘lane’ skirts the reservoir and then heads up and up and up, reaches a pass, and then down: narrow, no guard rails, and no mobile signal to know where we were and how far it was to some real tarmac.

By the time we made it to a real road, without mishap, because, ok, I’m used to driving on mountain roads, the route does exist without landslides or collapsed bits or mud and I resisted a strong urge to panic, we were cursing our stupidity. We should know better! I think I’d said never again in a slightly similar situation south of Barcelona in 2018, and that wasn’t as bad! Here are the details as a warning to be cautious in getting off the main road even if Google maps says it’s ok!

The next day, Friday we went to the fruit and vegetable market in Denia and looked around the Mercado central which isn’t a boutique market although the prices of fish are a lot higher than at Mercadona in Torrevieja. We then spent the rest of the morning exploring the town - two small museums: ethnographic and archaeological and a walk around the old centre of Denia and up to the entrance to the castle without actually going in. The other barrio, or historical centre, between the castle and the sea, has not been fully restored. There are many abandoned buildings and I wonder why because Denia seems both popular and expensive as regards accommodation.




In the afternoon we went for a very pleasant walk along the coast which starts just a few metres from our apartment and is called Paseo de les Rotes, about 4 km heading south along the coast from Marina de Denia. It’s not breathtaking but it’s an easy walk, pleasant, next to the sea, with no traffic, few people around and there are fine views of the Montgò promontory.

On Saturday we set off quite early for Calpe. It’s an easy drive from Denia and we took the more scenic route down from Benissa. We parked near the weekly market and had a quick look and then we walked to the sea. I’d seen the photos but all the same the sight of so many skyscrapers and so high in a place which could be of outstanding natural beauty because of the Penyal d’Ifac, really put me off and I spent most of the morning grumbling, although the tiny historical centre is quite nice with some picturesque corners and nice murals.

For lunch we went to Altea where we struck lucky at La Clau, winner of the local 2024 best tapa award. We had menu del dia: one bunuelos de calabacin, freshly fried, boiling hot and very good and one tasteless and lukewarm lentil soup. Second course is a tasty chicken with sauce, excellent potatoes and an artistic slow cooked pulled pork with mashed potatoes. For dessert, bizcococho casero. All in all, with water and bread, included and a beer we spent about 30 euros.

After lunch we strolled through the newer part of town and then uphill towards the old part of Altea. Altea is a pueblo blanco and is well looked after. White houses and vivid blue sea beyond are always a good combination. We wandered and stopped for coffee and an excellent ‘cake’ at pastisseria De Sabors just past the church. There were quite a few people around and I didn’t hear the same language twice running. The newer part of Altea near the sea is nowhere near as aggressive as Calp – the highest buildings are perhaps 5 or 6 storeys. Back down there we walk along the seafront which is attractively landscaped. The sea is deep blue but here the beach is stoney, perhaps the reason for the fewer apartment buildings. Anyway, the general vibe is very relaxing and pleasant. We liked Altea.

On Sunday morning we relaxed and went for a long stroll on the Paseo Les Rotes and in the afternoon we visited Javea. The historical centre which is deserted but nice. Houses painted white but with elegant carved sandstone portals, decorations and window frames. There are several interesting buildings – the San Bartolomeo church, the library, many palacios in the narrow streets. Definitely worth a visit.



After we drove down to the sea – the town isn’t on the beach. The beach is spectacular – steep and stony with enormous waves crashing on the rocks at the base of the stones. We strolled along the short promenade and visited the attractive church, built in 1967 before returning to Denia to pack for the last part of our journey in Valencia.

I liked this part of the coast. The towns are prettier than just around Torrevieja with some older centres. We liked Denia because it’s a genuine large Spanish town by the sea, going about its business, not just touristy, not much high rise and the Les Rotes paseo which goes along the coast for four kilometeres well away from the main road and mostly on a pedestrian/cycle path is very pleasant if you like walking by the sea.

Altea is also nice for the ‘pueblo blanco’ and another long promenade which we didn’t have time to explore and Javea for the historical centre set back from the sea. More on comparing the towns here.

Stunning dramatic coast scenes and sweet towns, at least not the over touristed ones.
Very interesting to see this part of Spain.

Tina that's a terrific report, and such beautiful photos!

I'm glad you had some time in Denia. I first visited that city last winter (first week in December) for 5 nights and liked it very much. I was too lazy to take that walk along the sea to Las Rotes but we did DRIVE there (now I fell really lazy, just typing that!) to eat at a very good but a little "fancy" restaurant (El Farallo) known for their Denia prawns. That tiny hamlet was so picturesque, I entertained dreams of renting one of those pretty fisherman's cottages for a month in summer.

I also noticed a lot of well-to-do-looking foreign tourists in and around Denia--some from Scandinavia but also from Belgium and Holland; we met a few couples who had second homes in the countryside and further south. Yet Denia gets so little interest on other travel sites...(TripAdvisor now seems devoted exclusively to tourists from the UK planning to go to either Canary Islands, Benidorm, Costa del Sol, and a couple of other resort areas)

Your report was so helpful. We did not explore much outside Denia itself, although we did take an inland drive to Javea on a pretty scary narrow up-and-down road with no barriers on the side....I drove very slowly and, as usual, caused a trail of impatient cars to form behind me.

I'd love to return and explore more places, including Altea. There was a trip report from Elizabeth, from Toronto (I forget her entire screen name) who rented a place there with her partner, Richard, for a few weeks (in Altea)...if I can find it, I will post it as you might enjoy reading...

Thank you for taking the time to recap your trip!

Thanks for reading, yes, it's a nice area ekscrunchy, at least out of season, and easy with a rental car from Alicante or Valencia airports

The last stage of our journey was 3 nights in Valencia. we knew it was nowhere near enough but wanted to get a taste of the city to see if we liked it enough to return for a longer stay.We stayed just two full days (three nights) in Valencia in February, not ideal for slow travellers, but that’s how it worked this time. The weather was perfect for visiting the city, a couple of light showers but mostly mild and sunny.

The first day we visited the historical centre, the Cathedral, Mercado Central, La Lonja de la Seda, Torre Serranos, Barrio del Carmen, Palacio del Marques de Dos Aguas which also houses Museo Nacional de Cerámica y de las Artes Suntuarias González Martí and a part of Jardines Turia.

The second day we took the underground to the beach area for a walk, visited the Fine Arts Museum, and the Jardines del Real y de los Viveros and strolled the centre.


My first impression of Valencia was not so positive – there’s a lot of unartistic graffiti and there isn’t the smog-free and sparkling feel to the city like the centre of Madrid, the picturesque architecture combined with orange trees like Sevilla or the combination of city, sea and history that makes Malaga irresistible to me. But the city grew on me, there aren’t many tourists, the historical centre in parts is very attractive, quiet and pleasant to wander around, there are many things to see and do, and in two days we only saw a few of these. Valencia isn’t right on the sea like Malaga, but it’s just a short ride by underground. The Jardines Turia, this green heart of the city, make it an attractive place for a longer stay. We didn’t have time to see the City of Arts and Sciences and the Oceanographic Aquarium which could probably have kept us busy for two or three days and the more I investigated the more interesting things I found.







A big advantage of Valencia is the cheap and efficient transport system. The modern and clean underground, a tram or a bus will take you from the airport, into the centre, to the City of Arts and Sciences, to the sea and beyond, quickly and cheaply with one of the ‘cards’ such as SUMA AB+. Valencia airport is small and quick and easy to reach from the city.
I’m not sure I’m entitled to give an opinion on a place after 48 hours, but I can say I liked Valencia. However, it’s a city I would advise visiting on a second or third visit to Spain – first go to see Madrid, Toledo, Andalucia including Sevilla, Granada, Cordoba, Malaga….. Many people compare it to Barcelona. I stayed a few days in Barcelona and I loved everything that was Gaudì, but apart from that I didn’t like the city – too big, chaotic, too many people, that inbuilt city grime from decades of traffic. I prefer Valencia as a city, whilst it’s obvious many people will rightly want to visit Barcelona because of Gaudì. For those looking for a way of avoiding the winter, Valencia’s mild winter climate and the fact it’s near enough to the sea for a walk along the beach will be advantages. We hope to return…..

Your thoughtful commentary is much appreciated.
Thanks for continuing your report.

Velencia is associated with being a stronghold of anti-fascism in the 30s and was temporarily the capital of the republic after a long siege against Madrid. The government moved form Madrid to Valenica for about a year. It had excellent fortifications.

An excellent trip report Tina. Beautiful pictures and thoughtful commentary. I especially enjoyed your description of Cordoba, somewhere I’ve not yet been, but hope to visit. I appreciated your comments on Valencia, where I did visit last May. My first impressions weren’t that positive either, but the city grew on me, and I find myself thinking back on it fondly and would definitely return. Lots of beautiful architecture, interesting markets, the river garden, and yes, the beach is a draw.

Thx for the report.
We visited Valencia after visiting the “ big draw “ cities several times.
I liked Valencia , the beaches are endless , and Calatrava designed buildings are wonderful.