Trip Report--Sicily in Spring
Mar 24th, 2007, 11:51 AM
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Trip Report--Sicily in Spring
Just returned from a great trip with my husband to Sicily and have a secret to share�travel to Sicily in March and you will have the island basically to yourself (aside from the Sicilians). Across the island we encountered very few other tourists, and even in the most storied tourist attractions (Monreale, Agrigento, Villa Romana, etc.) we timed our visits perfectly and as a result shared these sites with only a few others. Italy without tourists. Amazing.
At the outset, let me thank the many interesting posters whose previous reports were so helpful�especially RAR (loved the controversy he generated in 2003 with his �overrated/underrated� list), Bob the Navigator (always good information), and R.K. Kwan (amazing, incomparable photos).
In contrast to many Sicily visitors, we started near Catania and circled the island rather than flying into Catania and out of Palermo, or vice versa. That�s because we booked our flights ($572 round trip) before we started to do any detailed itinerary planning (not our usual method). By doing the open jaws flights we could have taken 3 days off our car rental--we didn�t use the car at all in Palermo--but the circumnavigation turned out to be easy and fun and allowed us to see a few more parts of Sicily, so we were happy with how it worked out.
Day 1 (Friday)--Aci Castello
An overnight flight from Philadelphia brought us to London Gatwick, where we had 90 minutes to connect to our British Airways flight to Catania. We made the connection with no problems. Our fortune turned, however, when we arrived in Catania to the first of 3 days of rain. Hey--that was definitely not part of the plan!
We scrambled across the road in the rain and picked up our Avis rental car. Our Nissan Micra was a cute little car, just the right size for driving through narrow town streets. It had an interesting feature that we had never seen before--it was �keyless.� There was a key, but it didn�t fit in the ignition. (Go figure.) The key, as I learned after numerous unsuccessful attempts to force it into the ignition, was just used to lock and unlock the doors. Once you unlock the doors, starting the car is merely a matter of putting your foot on the brake, making sure the car is in park, and turning a knob. This wasn�t necessarily intuitive, so I had to return to the car rental desk to get a lesson on how to start the car. �No, madam, you don�t use the key for the ignition�.� I imagine we aren�t the only people to be stumped by this innovation, and I really can�t see the advantage since one needs the key to open the door. Everything else about the car was just fine.
Getting out of the airport was an eye-opening introduction to driving in Sicily. The rain was pouring down, cars were literally going every which way, roads were blocked off, u-turns were being made, signs were confusing�I�m a good driver and my husband is an excellent navigator, but it took all our skills to make it out of there unscathed. We immediately started second-guessing our decision to decline full insurance coverage (we chose the 400 euro deductible).
Eventually we cleared the airport and headed north around the edge of Catania toward our initial destination, Aci Castello, a small seaside town on the Rivieria dei Ciclopi about 10 km north of Catania and part of the string of towns that line the coast on the way to Taormina. For the first 4 nights we had rented a penthouse apartment overlooking the sea, through the British agency ThinkSicily (www.thinksicily.com). This was a real splurge, made somewhat affordable because we were traveling in the off season. The beautiful one-bedroom apartment had a huge wraparound terrace and big picture windows, all the better to see the torrential rain that would plague us off and on for the next several days. It also had awesome views�to our right was a ruined castle clinging to a huge cliff, to our left were Il Ciclopi, three giant rocks in the sea that Cyclops threw at the fleeing Odysseus (I believe that, don�t you?), and in between was a wonderful roiling sea, with 7-foot waves that crashed against the shore beneath us. What a gorgeous spot to unwind from a cold, hard winter.
Exhausted by our travels and fortified by a lovely antipasto and wine that the apartment caretaker had prepared for us, we didn�t venture back out until the next morning, instead savoring the views and making plans for the days to come when, we figured, the sun would eventually shine.
Day 2 (Saturday)--Taormina
We were up early the next morning because we were scheduled to meet our 24-year-old son and his friend in Taormina, about a 30-minute drive to the north. The two had spent a week on the Italian mainland and were spending their last few days with us before heading back to the States. They had taken an overnight train from Rome that was scheduled to arrive about 7:30 a.m. Thank goodness for the time change--we were up-and-at-�em a little before 7. We had connected by cell phone the night before (we had borrowed GSM 2 cell phones and bought SIM cards with Italian numbers prior to leaving the U.S.), so we knew that they had made the train. We chatted again around 7 and were glad to hear that they were awake and the train was soon to arrive at Giardini Naxos, the station for Taormina. We picked them up soon after and made our way up the hill to Taormina for an early morning visit. The combination of the early hour and the off-and-on rain meant that, remarkably, we had the town mostly to ourselves.
After warming up with two rounds of wonderful cappuccino at the first piazza we encountered, we headed off to the Greek Theater, arriving just as it opened. It was fabulous to explore the site and not have to share it with anyone else! The only negative: no views of Mt. Etna. The mountain was shrouded in clouds, so we could only imagine how much more beautiful the view would have been had it been clear. (We�ll have to settle for R. K. Kwan�s great pictures of the view with Etna in it.)
We spent the rest of the morning exploring Taormina, with lunch at Granduca, whose cliffside dining room has an inspiring view overlooking the sea below. We each ordered individual pizzas and had enough left over to take home with us for dinner that night. By the time we left the town there were a few more visitors, but it was still pretty quiet. We drove down the hill and parked to take a rainy, bracing walk on the beach at Isola Bella next to crashing waves.
Because we weren�t allowed to have overnight guests in our apartment (�under no circumstances!�), the boys had made reservations through Hostelworld.com to stay in an apartment in Acireale, about 7 km north of Aci Castello, and they had arranged to meet up with the apartment owner in a piazza at 4:00. Good arrangement in theory, but finding the piazza and then finding the owner (only clue: �I�m a woman with dark hair�) took a bit more navigating than we had hoped. But eventually the connection was made and the apartment was theirs for the next two nights. It was cute! Where our apartment was elegant and spacious, theirs was compact and rustic. But it was only about 1/3 of the price of ours, so it was a good choice.
After they stowed their backpacks and looked around, we piled in the car and drove to our Aci Castello apartment to spend the evening. Those leftover pizzas were very tasty, combined with a bottle (or two) of wine and some great olives. A fine evening had to end eventually, however, so we made the quick trip back to Acireale to drop off the guys and then headed back to our apartment for the night.
Day 3 (Sunday)--Siracusa
Morning pickup of the guys in Acireale and then we were off on the autostrada toward Siracusa. First things first: cappucini at the autostrada rest stop. What a hoot! We�ve always enjoyed rest stops in Italy. I imagine that Italians think of them the same way we think of the rest stops along the New Jersey Turnpike or New York Thruway (pit stops with few redeeming features), but we love the Italian version, with coffee bars that serve good cappuccino and espresso, and, surprisingly, even alcoholic beverages (no, we didn�t partake). We also sampled the panini but definitely weren�t fond of the ketchup and mayonnaise that accompanied the cheese and meat, so we decided not to do that again. Instead we became addicted to Pringles in all sorts of interesting flavors, something we would never buy in the States. (Travel is so liberating.)
On to Siracusa, where the off-and-on rain didn�t keep us from having a wonderful day. Being dedicated Amazing Race fans, during the trip we had fun noting all the locations that the contestants had visited during their tasks in Sicily in season 9 (we have the shows saved on our DVR so we rewatched them when we returned home��We were there! And there!� ) Siracusa was one of the featured sites.
We soon made our way to Ortygia, which, again, was empty�this time of both tourists and residents. Where were all the people? It was Sunday morning, so we figured they were sleeping in. Or at church? We really enjoyed exploring the streets, alleys, and seafront of Ortygia. The Piazza Duomo and the duomo itself were wonderful. After a good explore it was 1:00 and about time to eat, so our next task was to find an open restaurant.
Good fortune: we came across one, Osteria Mariano, and went inside to check out the menu. It looked reasonable and a few tables were already occupied, so we decided to stay for lunch. As with almost everywhere we ate at in Sicily, no one spoke English. Our Italian is, to say the least, �limited� (very limited), so we had a few funny moments. We were asked whether we wanted red wine or white, and I tried to explain that we would like to see the menu again so we could determine what we wanted to eat before deciding on the color of the wine. I can assure you that �Menu primo�� is not the way to say this. The waiter looked puzzled, nodded OK, and went back to the kitchen. Two more people arrived to ask us what color wine we wanted. Finally we just said red, and that started the meal. It turned out that the menu was beside the point because the food just started arriving. Soon the restaurant was full of local families and couples enjoying a Sunday meal. We got the whole treatment�antipasti, 3 kinds of pasta, a couple of secondi (by which time the waiter realized that we were not going to be able to finish anything), cannoli (for one of us), lovely almond and plum liquers, espresso. All washed down with excellent local red wine. The restaurant was wonderful, and not listed in any guidebooks.
This experience was the model for what would be our standard operating procedure for most of the rest of the trip�a good restaurant meal at lunchtime and light dinners back home, made up of provisions from local markets. We ate while everyone else was eating and the shops were all closed, and we were ready to roll when things opened up again in the late afternoon. It worked well for us.
Before we left Siracusa we still had the archeological park on our list of things to do. We got to the park about 3:00�admission 6 euros (the standard admission for most all tourist sites in Sicily). Discounts available for those 65 and over (my husband) and under 25 (the guys), but unfortunately they apply only to members of the European Union. We didn�t mind paying 6 euros each to support these fabulous sites.
The rain had stopped, but again, no one else was there! We clambered up and down the steps of the Teatro Greco and sat for a while, enjoying the peace and solitude. Thought a little about Aeschylus watching his plays being performed in the same theater. It was hard to get my mind around that one. We also visited the Roman Amphitheater, a short walk away.
We returned to Aci Castello to relax after a full day and enjoy the views of the still-pounding surf from our lovely apartment. Later in the evening we ventured out to find something we could buy for dinner and take back to eat at the apartment. We came upon a small trattoria near the town center that displayed an array of fresh antipasti just waiting to be eaten. Again, no English spoken, but we managed to convey that we wanted to purchase the food and take it with us rather than eating it at the restaurant. We so enjoyed those kinds of encounters on this trip, where success in our little tasks gave us a sense of accomplishment and a further determination to learn more Italian before we return.
After dinner we drove the guys back to their apartment and arranged to meet again at 9:30 the next morning so they could get a full day of sightseeing in before having to leave on the overnight train back to Rome and a flight back to the States.
Day 4 (Monday)--Castiglione di Sicilia, Castelmola
Best laid plans sometimes go awry. We had hoped to spend this day on Mt Etna, and to get a fairly early start. But Mother Nature had another itinerary in mind�thunder and lightning had crashed about us overnight and started to clear out the clouds, but climbing around Etna was out of the question. And the guys� apartment agent (the woman with brown hair) failed to show up as scheduled to get the keys and give them back their 100 euro security deposit. By 10:45 we decided to cut our losses and leave the keys inside the apartment. Our son left a note asking her to send the refund to him in New York, and we headed out with a new plan for how to spend the day. (Trust pays off. A few days later she e-mailed him with her apologies�car trouble�and sent a Moneygram with the deposit refund that he was able to pick up at a store near his office.)
We had considered driving to Piazza Armerina so the guys could see the Roman mosaics, but given the time wasted waiting and the prospective 4-hour round trip, we decided on a more localized itinerary. The sun was finally coming out (surprise! Etna suddenly appeared, majestically, to our left). Castiglione di Sicilia, a mountain town to the west of Catania, offered a chance for a beautiful drive inland and an exploration of an off-the-beaten-track destination. (Though, based on our experience, all of Sicily is �off the beaten track.�) It turned out to be just that�nothing special about the little town except the awesome views from a ruined hilltop castle, a pleasant sense of the local community going about their business, and a fine enoteca at which we enjoyed an outstanding lunch. Good fortune: we had intended to eat at a restaurant recommended in our guidebook (Rough Guide), but that wasn�t open so we ferreted out the wine bar, La Dispensa del Etna, which served a full lunch (including 3 plates of glorious antipasti) and excellent wines of the area. This was high-level local dining that the guys hadn�t been able to experience in their previous week in Italy, given their budget, and we were pleased to be able to share it with them.
After we wrapped up our late lunch we still had a few hours before we had to be at the train station at Giardini Naxos. The guys had visited the catacombs in Rome but had been slightly disappointed that there were no bodies there (yes, they have a weird fascination with dead bodies), so a quick perusal of the guidebook showed that the village of Savoca, north of Taormina, had catacombs with actual bodies. Yay! Off we drove in search of the bodies. Unfortunately when we got there the catacombs were closed--it was Monday, and they are closed on Monday. We hadn�t read enough of the guidebook to know that Savoca is worth visiting on its own (it was the setting for scenes �The Godfather�), so we made the mistake of turning around and heading back toward Taormina without seeing the village. Darn!
Though the weather was now pretty fine, we didn�t have enough time left to allow us to revisit Taormina, so we drove up the hill to Castelmola, hoping for sunset views of Taormina below. We weren�t disappointed, though the castle there has been closed for repair. Then it was down to the train station and a fond farewell to the guys. They had a long night and day ahead, trying to get some sleep on the tiny couchettes of the overnight train, arriving in Rome about 4:45, and getting themselves to the airport for a 9:15 a.m. flight. But they said later it was all worth it. Our two sons and their partners enjoy traveling with us as much as we do with them, and it�s always a pleasure to spend even the briefest time together exploring a new country. We look forward to many more such pleasures in the future.
It was a little lonely that evening at the apartment back in Aci Castello, but the propects for the rest of our trip were exciting � sunny weather, Greek and Roman ruins, Palermo� more to come!
At the outset, let me thank the many interesting posters whose previous reports were so helpful�especially RAR (loved the controversy he generated in 2003 with his �overrated/underrated� list), Bob the Navigator (always good information), and R.K. Kwan (amazing, incomparable photos).
In contrast to many Sicily visitors, we started near Catania and circled the island rather than flying into Catania and out of Palermo, or vice versa. That�s because we booked our flights ($572 round trip) before we started to do any detailed itinerary planning (not our usual method). By doing the open jaws flights we could have taken 3 days off our car rental--we didn�t use the car at all in Palermo--but the circumnavigation turned out to be easy and fun and allowed us to see a few more parts of Sicily, so we were happy with how it worked out.
Day 1 (Friday)--Aci Castello
An overnight flight from Philadelphia brought us to London Gatwick, where we had 90 minutes to connect to our British Airways flight to Catania. We made the connection with no problems. Our fortune turned, however, when we arrived in Catania to the first of 3 days of rain. Hey--that was definitely not part of the plan!
We scrambled across the road in the rain and picked up our Avis rental car. Our Nissan Micra was a cute little car, just the right size for driving through narrow town streets. It had an interesting feature that we had never seen before--it was �keyless.� There was a key, but it didn�t fit in the ignition. (Go figure.) The key, as I learned after numerous unsuccessful attempts to force it into the ignition, was just used to lock and unlock the doors. Once you unlock the doors, starting the car is merely a matter of putting your foot on the brake, making sure the car is in park, and turning a knob. This wasn�t necessarily intuitive, so I had to return to the car rental desk to get a lesson on how to start the car. �No, madam, you don�t use the key for the ignition�.� I imagine we aren�t the only people to be stumped by this innovation, and I really can�t see the advantage since one needs the key to open the door. Everything else about the car was just fine.
Getting out of the airport was an eye-opening introduction to driving in Sicily. The rain was pouring down, cars were literally going every which way, roads were blocked off, u-turns were being made, signs were confusing�I�m a good driver and my husband is an excellent navigator, but it took all our skills to make it out of there unscathed. We immediately started second-guessing our decision to decline full insurance coverage (we chose the 400 euro deductible).
Eventually we cleared the airport and headed north around the edge of Catania toward our initial destination, Aci Castello, a small seaside town on the Rivieria dei Ciclopi about 10 km north of Catania and part of the string of towns that line the coast on the way to Taormina. For the first 4 nights we had rented a penthouse apartment overlooking the sea, through the British agency ThinkSicily (www.thinksicily.com). This was a real splurge, made somewhat affordable because we were traveling in the off season. The beautiful one-bedroom apartment had a huge wraparound terrace and big picture windows, all the better to see the torrential rain that would plague us off and on for the next several days. It also had awesome views�to our right was a ruined castle clinging to a huge cliff, to our left were Il Ciclopi, three giant rocks in the sea that Cyclops threw at the fleeing Odysseus (I believe that, don�t you?), and in between was a wonderful roiling sea, with 7-foot waves that crashed against the shore beneath us. What a gorgeous spot to unwind from a cold, hard winter.
Exhausted by our travels and fortified by a lovely antipasto and wine that the apartment caretaker had prepared for us, we didn�t venture back out until the next morning, instead savoring the views and making plans for the days to come when, we figured, the sun would eventually shine.
Day 2 (Saturday)--Taormina
We were up early the next morning because we were scheduled to meet our 24-year-old son and his friend in Taormina, about a 30-minute drive to the north. The two had spent a week on the Italian mainland and were spending their last few days with us before heading back to the States. They had taken an overnight train from Rome that was scheduled to arrive about 7:30 a.m. Thank goodness for the time change--we were up-and-at-�em a little before 7. We had connected by cell phone the night before (we had borrowed GSM 2 cell phones and bought SIM cards with Italian numbers prior to leaving the U.S.), so we knew that they had made the train. We chatted again around 7 and were glad to hear that they were awake and the train was soon to arrive at Giardini Naxos, the station for Taormina. We picked them up soon after and made our way up the hill to Taormina for an early morning visit. The combination of the early hour and the off-and-on rain meant that, remarkably, we had the town mostly to ourselves.
After warming up with two rounds of wonderful cappuccino at the first piazza we encountered, we headed off to the Greek Theater, arriving just as it opened. It was fabulous to explore the site and not have to share it with anyone else! The only negative: no views of Mt. Etna. The mountain was shrouded in clouds, so we could only imagine how much more beautiful the view would have been had it been clear. (We�ll have to settle for R. K. Kwan�s great pictures of the view with Etna in it.)
We spent the rest of the morning exploring Taormina, with lunch at Granduca, whose cliffside dining room has an inspiring view overlooking the sea below. We each ordered individual pizzas and had enough left over to take home with us for dinner that night. By the time we left the town there were a few more visitors, but it was still pretty quiet. We drove down the hill and parked to take a rainy, bracing walk on the beach at Isola Bella next to crashing waves.
Because we weren�t allowed to have overnight guests in our apartment (�under no circumstances!�), the boys had made reservations through Hostelworld.com to stay in an apartment in Acireale, about 7 km north of Aci Castello, and they had arranged to meet up with the apartment owner in a piazza at 4:00. Good arrangement in theory, but finding the piazza and then finding the owner (only clue: �I�m a woman with dark hair�) took a bit more navigating than we had hoped. But eventually the connection was made and the apartment was theirs for the next two nights. It was cute! Where our apartment was elegant and spacious, theirs was compact and rustic. But it was only about 1/3 of the price of ours, so it was a good choice.
After they stowed their backpacks and looked around, we piled in the car and drove to our Aci Castello apartment to spend the evening. Those leftover pizzas were very tasty, combined with a bottle (or two) of wine and some great olives. A fine evening had to end eventually, however, so we made the quick trip back to Acireale to drop off the guys and then headed back to our apartment for the night.
Day 3 (Sunday)--Siracusa
Morning pickup of the guys in Acireale and then we were off on the autostrada toward Siracusa. First things first: cappucini at the autostrada rest stop. What a hoot! We�ve always enjoyed rest stops in Italy. I imagine that Italians think of them the same way we think of the rest stops along the New Jersey Turnpike or New York Thruway (pit stops with few redeeming features), but we love the Italian version, with coffee bars that serve good cappuccino and espresso, and, surprisingly, even alcoholic beverages (no, we didn�t partake). We also sampled the panini but definitely weren�t fond of the ketchup and mayonnaise that accompanied the cheese and meat, so we decided not to do that again. Instead we became addicted to Pringles in all sorts of interesting flavors, something we would never buy in the States. (Travel is so liberating.)
On to Siracusa, where the off-and-on rain didn�t keep us from having a wonderful day. Being dedicated Amazing Race fans, during the trip we had fun noting all the locations that the contestants had visited during their tasks in Sicily in season 9 (we have the shows saved on our DVR so we rewatched them when we returned home��We were there! And there!� ) Siracusa was one of the featured sites.
We soon made our way to Ortygia, which, again, was empty�this time of both tourists and residents. Where were all the people? It was Sunday morning, so we figured they were sleeping in. Or at church? We really enjoyed exploring the streets, alleys, and seafront of Ortygia. The Piazza Duomo and the duomo itself were wonderful. After a good explore it was 1:00 and about time to eat, so our next task was to find an open restaurant.
Good fortune: we came across one, Osteria Mariano, and went inside to check out the menu. It looked reasonable and a few tables were already occupied, so we decided to stay for lunch. As with almost everywhere we ate at in Sicily, no one spoke English. Our Italian is, to say the least, �limited� (very limited), so we had a few funny moments. We were asked whether we wanted red wine or white, and I tried to explain that we would like to see the menu again so we could determine what we wanted to eat before deciding on the color of the wine. I can assure you that �Menu primo�� is not the way to say this. The waiter looked puzzled, nodded OK, and went back to the kitchen. Two more people arrived to ask us what color wine we wanted. Finally we just said red, and that started the meal. It turned out that the menu was beside the point because the food just started arriving. Soon the restaurant was full of local families and couples enjoying a Sunday meal. We got the whole treatment�antipasti, 3 kinds of pasta, a couple of secondi (by which time the waiter realized that we were not going to be able to finish anything), cannoli (for one of us), lovely almond and plum liquers, espresso. All washed down with excellent local red wine. The restaurant was wonderful, and not listed in any guidebooks.
This experience was the model for what would be our standard operating procedure for most of the rest of the trip�a good restaurant meal at lunchtime and light dinners back home, made up of provisions from local markets. We ate while everyone else was eating and the shops were all closed, and we were ready to roll when things opened up again in the late afternoon. It worked well for us.
Before we left Siracusa we still had the archeological park on our list of things to do. We got to the park about 3:00�admission 6 euros (the standard admission for most all tourist sites in Sicily). Discounts available for those 65 and over (my husband) and under 25 (the guys), but unfortunately they apply only to members of the European Union. We didn�t mind paying 6 euros each to support these fabulous sites.
The rain had stopped, but again, no one else was there! We clambered up and down the steps of the Teatro Greco and sat for a while, enjoying the peace and solitude. Thought a little about Aeschylus watching his plays being performed in the same theater. It was hard to get my mind around that one. We also visited the Roman Amphitheater, a short walk away.
We returned to Aci Castello to relax after a full day and enjoy the views of the still-pounding surf from our lovely apartment. Later in the evening we ventured out to find something we could buy for dinner and take back to eat at the apartment. We came upon a small trattoria near the town center that displayed an array of fresh antipasti just waiting to be eaten. Again, no English spoken, but we managed to convey that we wanted to purchase the food and take it with us rather than eating it at the restaurant. We so enjoyed those kinds of encounters on this trip, where success in our little tasks gave us a sense of accomplishment and a further determination to learn more Italian before we return.
After dinner we drove the guys back to their apartment and arranged to meet again at 9:30 the next morning so they could get a full day of sightseeing in before having to leave on the overnight train back to Rome and a flight back to the States.
Day 4 (Monday)--Castiglione di Sicilia, Castelmola
Best laid plans sometimes go awry. We had hoped to spend this day on Mt Etna, and to get a fairly early start. But Mother Nature had another itinerary in mind�thunder and lightning had crashed about us overnight and started to clear out the clouds, but climbing around Etna was out of the question. And the guys� apartment agent (the woman with brown hair) failed to show up as scheduled to get the keys and give them back their 100 euro security deposit. By 10:45 we decided to cut our losses and leave the keys inside the apartment. Our son left a note asking her to send the refund to him in New York, and we headed out with a new plan for how to spend the day. (Trust pays off. A few days later she e-mailed him with her apologies�car trouble�and sent a Moneygram with the deposit refund that he was able to pick up at a store near his office.)
We had considered driving to Piazza Armerina so the guys could see the Roman mosaics, but given the time wasted waiting and the prospective 4-hour round trip, we decided on a more localized itinerary. The sun was finally coming out (surprise! Etna suddenly appeared, majestically, to our left). Castiglione di Sicilia, a mountain town to the west of Catania, offered a chance for a beautiful drive inland and an exploration of an off-the-beaten-track destination. (Though, based on our experience, all of Sicily is �off the beaten track.�) It turned out to be just that�nothing special about the little town except the awesome views from a ruined hilltop castle, a pleasant sense of the local community going about their business, and a fine enoteca at which we enjoyed an outstanding lunch. Good fortune: we had intended to eat at a restaurant recommended in our guidebook (Rough Guide), but that wasn�t open so we ferreted out the wine bar, La Dispensa del Etna, which served a full lunch (including 3 plates of glorious antipasti) and excellent wines of the area. This was high-level local dining that the guys hadn�t been able to experience in their previous week in Italy, given their budget, and we were pleased to be able to share it with them.
After we wrapped up our late lunch we still had a few hours before we had to be at the train station at Giardini Naxos. The guys had visited the catacombs in Rome but had been slightly disappointed that there were no bodies there (yes, they have a weird fascination with dead bodies), so a quick perusal of the guidebook showed that the village of Savoca, north of Taormina, had catacombs with actual bodies. Yay! Off we drove in search of the bodies. Unfortunately when we got there the catacombs were closed--it was Monday, and they are closed on Monday. We hadn�t read enough of the guidebook to know that Savoca is worth visiting on its own (it was the setting for scenes �The Godfather�), so we made the mistake of turning around and heading back toward Taormina without seeing the village. Darn!
Though the weather was now pretty fine, we didn�t have enough time left to allow us to revisit Taormina, so we drove up the hill to Castelmola, hoping for sunset views of Taormina below. We weren�t disappointed, though the castle there has been closed for repair. Then it was down to the train station and a fond farewell to the guys. They had a long night and day ahead, trying to get some sleep on the tiny couchettes of the overnight train, arriving in Rome about 4:45, and getting themselves to the airport for a 9:15 a.m. flight. But they said later it was all worth it. Our two sons and their partners enjoy traveling with us as much as we do with them, and it�s always a pleasure to spend even the briefest time together exploring a new country. We look forward to many more such pleasures in the future.
It was a little lonely that evening at the apartment back in Aci Castello, but the propects for the rest of our trip were exciting � sunny weather, Greek and Roman ruins, Palermo� more to come!
Mar 25th, 2007, 07:40 AM
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Thanks for the encouragement! Here's more.
Day 5 (Tuesday) – Cefalu and Palermo
The sun did shine as we left Aci Castello and headed west via the autostrada, and it shone for the rest of the trip. Daytime temperatures hovered around the mid-60s, perfect for all outdoor activities.
As we drove across the interior of Sicily we were amazed at the brilliant green hillsides and valleys, swathed in bright yellow wildflowers. I was expecting dry, rocky terrain, not lush green hills, and was continually delighted by the views. We saw Enna on a hill in the distance and wanted to detour for a visit, but we were headed for Palermo and hoped to get there in the early afternoon while everyone was at lunch when, we had heard, the traffic would be lighter.
First, though, we made a brief visit to Cefalu, a lovely town set below cliffs on the northern coast. Gorgeous views confronted us as we drove down a hill into the town. We easily found parking at a pay lot not far from the center and spent the next couple of hours seeing the sights. The duomo is superb, and the small marina area is charming. Few of the restaurants recommended in our guidebooks were open (again, early season?), so we patrolled the narrow streets looking for a good place for lunch. We came across La Galeria, a young restaurant with a sparkling modern interior and an appealing patio. The patio was undergoing a bit of construction so we ate inside. We were the only patrons, but the food was excellent. Cefalu and its surroundings are definitely worth more time than we were able to spend there.
Our goal, however, was Palermo. We had reserved 3 nights in an apartment close to the Quattro Canti in the heart of the city. The trick now was to get there and find somewhere to store the car for 3 days. We had read about the harrowing driving conditions in Palermo, so my husband had planned a good route that would involve just one traffic circle and a straight shot downtown to a garage listed in the Rough Guide. Excellent plan, with one glitch – the garage no longer existed. So despite our best efforts, we ended up driving in the middle of Palermo, circling the train station, and making our way through the one-way streets. We eventually navigated ourselves back out of the center and spotted a garage we must have passed on our way in.
Driving in Palermo was not as bad as it’s made out to be. Once we realized that traffic rules are merely suggestions, not rules, we coped quite well. Two lanes painted on the road? Just a suggestion—why not turn it into four? A double “no passing” line? Applies only until you need to pass. Red light? Not necessary to stop if it’s just a pedestrian crossing. Stop signs for cross-traffic? Never mind. No opening in the line of traffic? Stick your car’s nose out and play a little chicken—someone will let you in. And above all, the “suggestions” don’t apply to motorbikes. In fact, driving in Palermo was a bit like driving in lower Manhattan, with the addition of dozens of motorbikes. An adventure!
Nonetheless, we were glad to find a garage and be done with the car for a few days. First, though, we had to get across to the garage attendant (no English) that we wanted to leave the car for 3 nights and would come back for it around 9 a.m. on Friday. Unfortunately, I had forgotten the word for Friday (if I ever knew it), and all the other words we needed, so it took some creative sign language and a lot of effort on both the attendant’s part and ours to come to a satisfactory conclusion. By that time he had been joined by another guy, who spoke a few words of English and confirmed that everybody understood the plan. The total price was settled at 40 euros, which we felt was a good deal. There was no spot for our car at the moment, so the attendant would have to move it when one opened up. After smiles all around and a hearty round of “arrivaderci” we grabbed our bags (we were traveling with just a small carry-on sized bag each) and started walking toward the center of town.
After a few blocks we stopped in our tracks and realized what we had just done. We had left our rental car and its keyless key at a garage and had no receipt or evidence to prove it. In Palermo. Were we crazy? Should we go back? Perhaps naively, we decided to roll the dice and leave it where it was. Hopefully it would still be there when we returned on Friday.
We eventually located our apartment, the Palazzo Natoli on Corso Vittorio Emanuale, a major cross-street in old Palermo. Our home for the next 3 nights, the 1-bedroom apartment was spacious, comfortable, and well-equipped (it even had an electric juicer so we could make fresh blood orange juice every morning). It also had a neat rooftop terrace that was all ours. The owner was friendly and helpful (and spoke English!). Though we had rented through i-escape.com, he also advertises the apartment independently on the Internet (www.elaziz.it). The price was reasonable, and we highly recommend this accommodation. The only negatives are a bit of traffic noise in the bedroom (didn’t bother us) and the difficulty of finding parking nearby.
After the long drive across Sicily and the long walk from the garage to the apartment, we were ready to take it easy for the night. We headed out for a brief explore and found a nice shop a few blocks away that sold excellent cheese, bread, sliced meats, olives, and wine – everything we needed for dinner. We stocked up and spent the evening relaxing in the apartment. The television offered 9 channels of Italian programming. Flipping through the channels we came across the Italian version of “Who Wants to Be a Millionaire” and “Deal or No Deal.” We tuned in each night for fun lessons in Italian (it was remarkable how much we could understand) and the antics of the gregarious “Deal” host.
Days 6 and 7 (Wednesday and Thursday)—Palermo and Monreale
We spent much of the next two days in Palermo, pounding the pavement and taking in the sights. Highlights included the Palermo Cathedral, several other churches, the Palazzo Mirto, and Cappella Palatina (though many of the famed mosaics are currently hidden by drapes due to restoration work). In the basement of the Palazza dei Normani we enjoyed a wonderful exhibit of caricatures by G. I Muli. Window shopping was a treat—the stores were full of fashionable clothes and shoes.
We covered most of old and new Palermo, from the marina to the Puerta Nuova, from the station to the Teatro Politeama. The feeling we got in the two parts of the city was quite different – in new Palermo the streets are wide and the sidewalks broad; in old Palermo the streets are narrow, packed with cars and motorbikes, and pedestrians crowd the narrow sidewalks. At times I felt hemmed in but then would gaze down the street and see mountains in the distance, giving an odd sense of light at the end of the tunnel.
La Vucciria street market is a well-known feature of Palermo. We visited twice, but both times around mid-day, when the market was closing up, so it was a lot quieter than we expected. We preferred the Ballaro market, which was much more active when we made our way through it on a morning walk. There we stocked up on blood oranges and wild strawberries for breakfasts, and several varieties of olives to supplement our evening repasts. (I love olives but finally hit a point of saturation by the time we left Palermo. By that time my face felt like a puff ball from all the salt I was ingesting!) One treat at the Vucciria market is the Trattoria Shanghai, a funky, open-air restaurant (serving Italian food, not Chinese) with red-checked tablecloths, overhanging the center of the market. We had a filling lunch there in the early afternoon. From our table we had a ringside seat to watch the market activity winding down—a few tourists snapping pictures, fish sellers rearranging their fish, children and animals roaming the square, friends meeting and kissing. A great scene, and the food was good, too! We were certain that the whole roasted calamari my husband ordered came straight from the market below (we envisioned the waiter running downstairs, grabbing a calamari from the vendor, and running back upstairs). We ended the meal with espresso served in little plastic cups, which seemed perfect for the fun, informal setting.
The other restaurant we ate at in Palermo was Casa del Brodo, at 175 Corso Emmanuel Vittorio, a few blocks from our apartment. The lunch we had at this venerable restaurant was outstanding. However, though we were not poorly dressed, we did get the tourist treatment: the restaurant has 3 smallish dining rooms, and we were seated in the first one. Another diner – also apparently a tourist – was seated in the same room, but all the locals who entered the restaurant were led past our table to the second dining room. The last time we experienced this kind of obvious segregation was in Paris at a trendy chef’s restaurant where we were put in the back room (alone) even though there were tables open in the lively front room. In both cases we enjoyed the same excellent food as the locals but not the same atmosphere. Interesting experience.
After a full day exploring the city we were ready for some fresh air, and Monreale was on the itinerary. On the morning of Day 7 we walked down the street past the Puerta Nuova and caught a 9:30 bus (1.20 euros) for the 30-minute ride up the hill to see the Cathedral and the surrounding town. Here we found the most tourists we would see on the entire trip – probably as many tourists as we would see on all the other days combined. Still, that wasn’t many. There were a few groups of high school students on a class trip, some Japanese and German groups, and, for the first time, a small group of Americans. The latter had an excellent guide and we were lucky to be standing nearby while the guide described the story of the awesome mosaics that surround the interior.
We had seen many pictures of the cathedral’s interior (including R.K. Kwan’s fine shots), but there is just nothing like seeing it in person. Mosaics everywhere! It was hard to believe that this intricate work had been completed in just 11 years. We spent a long time inside and then moved on to the beautiful cloisters, where we were entranced by the columns inlaid with tiles. Though entry to the cloisters costs 6 euros (the cathedral is free), you shouldn’t miss them. The fee may have kept some of the tourists from entering, for we enjoyed a peaceful and quiet time almost alone inside. Most of the exterior of the cathedral is very plain, but it’s worthwhile to take a walk around the building to see the interesting apse end, and to enjoy the great views down to Palermo below. Unfortunately the day we visited was quite hazy, so the views were less than stellar.
We briefly considered walking back to Palermo (it’s all downhill) but decided instead to return by bus in order to take better advantage of our last few hours in the city. Guess what? While walking outside the Teatro Massimo we saw someone murdered. Well, it wasn’t an actual murder – it was part of a movie shoot that was taking place at the same site where scenes from “The Godfather” were shot. A crowd gathered, the actors were placed, the director shouted “accione!” and a machine gun blasted, “killing” a man with a brief case. Everybody smiled, the crowd broke up, and we went on our way.
After Palermo we had only two more nights in Sicily. Our trip was drawing to an end, but the best was yet to come…
Day 5 (Tuesday) – Cefalu and Palermo
The sun did shine as we left Aci Castello and headed west via the autostrada, and it shone for the rest of the trip. Daytime temperatures hovered around the mid-60s, perfect for all outdoor activities.
As we drove across the interior of Sicily we were amazed at the brilliant green hillsides and valleys, swathed in bright yellow wildflowers. I was expecting dry, rocky terrain, not lush green hills, and was continually delighted by the views. We saw Enna on a hill in the distance and wanted to detour for a visit, but we were headed for Palermo and hoped to get there in the early afternoon while everyone was at lunch when, we had heard, the traffic would be lighter.
First, though, we made a brief visit to Cefalu, a lovely town set below cliffs on the northern coast. Gorgeous views confronted us as we drove down a hill into the town. We easily found parking at a pay lot not far from the center and spent the next couple of hours seeing the sights. The duomo is superb, and the small marina area is charming. Few of the restaurants recommended in our guidebooks were open (again, early season?), so we patrolled the narrow streets looking for a good place for lunch. We came across La Galeria, a young restaurant with a sparkling modern interior and an appealing patio. The patio was undergoing a bit of construction so we ate inside. We were the only patrons, but the food was excellent. Cefalu and its surroundings are definitely worth more time than we were able to spend there.
Our goal, however, was Palermo. We had reserved 3 nights in an apartment close to the Quattro Canti in the heart of the city. The trick now was to get there and find somewhere to store the car for 3 days. We had read about the harrowing driving conditions in Palermo, so my husband had planned a good route that would involve just one traffic circle and a straight shot downtown to a garage listed in the Rough Guide. Excellent plan, with one glitch – the garage no longer existed. So despite our best efforts, we ended up driving in the middle of Palermo, circling the train station, and making our way through the one-way streets. We eventually navigated ourselves back out of the center and spotted a garage we must have passed on our way in.
Driving in Palermo was not as bad as it’s made out to be. Once we realized that traffic rules are merely suggestions, not rules, we coped quite well. Two lanes painted on the road? Just a suggestion—why not turn it into four? A double “no passing” line? Applies only until you need to pass. Red light? Not necessary to stop if it’s just a pedestrian crossing. Stop signs for cross-traffic? Never mind. No opening in the line of traffic? Stick your car’s nose out and play a little chicken—someone will let you in. And above all, the “suggestions” don’t apply to motorbikes. In fact, driving in Palermo was a bit like driving in lower Manhattan, with the addition of dozens of motorbikes. An adventure!
Nonetheless, we were glad to find a garage and be done with the car for a few days. First, though, we had to get across to the garage attendant (no English) that we wanted to leave the car for 3 nights and would come back for it around 9 a.m. on Friday. Unfortunately, I had forgotten the word for Friday (if I ever knew it), and all the other words we needed, so it took some creative sign language and a lot of effort on both the attendant’s part and ours to come to a satisfactory conclusion. By that time he had been joined by another guy, who spoke a few words of English and confirmed that everybody understood the plan. The total price was settled at 40 euros, which we felt was a good deal. There was no spot for our car at the moment, so the attendant would have to move it when one opened up. After smiles all around and a hearty round of “arrivaderci” we grabbed our bags (we were traveling with just a small carry-on sized bag each) and started walking toward the center of town.
After a few blocks we stopped in our tracks and realized what we had just done. We had left our rental car and its keyless key at a garage and had no receipt or evidence to prove it. In Palermo. Were we crazy? Should we go back? Perhaps naively, we decided to roll the dice and leave it where it was. Hopefully it would still be there when we returned on Friday.
We eventually located our apartment, the Palazzo Natoli on Corso Vittorio Emanuale, a major cross-street in old Palermo. Our home for the next 3 nights, the 1-bedroom apartment was spacious, comfortable, and well-equipped (it even had an electric juicer so we could make fresh blood orange juice every morning). It also had a neat rooftop terrace that was all ours. The owner was friendly and helpful (and spoke English!). Though we had rented through i-escape.com, he also advertises the apartment independently on the Internet (www.elaziz.it). The price was reasonable, and we highly recommend this accommodation. The only negatives are a bit of traffic noise in the bedroom (didn’t bother us) and the difficulty of finding parking nearby.
After the long drive across Sicily and the long walk from the garage to the apartment, we were ready to take it easy for the night. We headed out for a brief explore and found a nice shop a few blocks away that sold excellent cheese, bread, sliced meats, olives, and wine – everything we needed for dinner. We stocked up and spent the evening relaxing in the apartment. The television offered 9 channels of Italian programming. Flipping through the channels we came across the Italian version of “Who Wants to Be a Millionaire” and “Deal or No Deal.” We tuned in each night for fun lessons in Italian (it was remarkable how much we could understand) and the antics of the gregarious “Deal” host.
Days 6 and 7 (Wednesday and Thursday)—Palermo and Monreale
We spent much of the next two days in Palermo, pounding the pavement and taking in the sights. Highlights included the Palermo Cathedral, several other churches, the Palazzo Mirto, and Cappella Palatina (though many of the famed mosaics are currently hidden by drapes due to restoration work). In the basement of the Palazza dei Normani we enjoyed a wonderful exhibit of caricatures by G. I Muli. Window shopping was a treat—the stores were full of fashionable clothes and shoes.
We covered most of old and new Palermo, from the marina to the Puerta Nuova, from the station to the Teatro Politeama. The feeling we got in the two parts of the city was quite different – in new Palermo the streets are wide and the sidewalks broad; in old Palermo the streets are narrow, packed with cars and motorbikes, and pedestrians crowd the narrow sidewalks. At times I felt hemmed in but then would gaze down the street and see mountains in the distance, giving an odd sense of light at the end of the tunnel.
La Vucciria street market is a well-known feature of Palermo. We visited twice, but both times around mid-day, when the market was closing up, so it was a lot quieter than we expected. We preferred the Ballaro market, which was much more active when we made our way through it on a morning walk. There we stocked up on blood oranges and wild strawberries for breakfasts, and several varieties of olives to supplement our evening repasts. (I love olives but finally hit a point of saturation by the time we left Palermo. By that time my face felt like a puff ball from all the salt I was ingesting!) One treat at the Vucciria market is the Trattoria Shanghai, a funky, open-air restaurant (serving Italian food, not Chinese) with red-checked tablecloths, overhanging the center of the market. We had a filling lunch there in the early afternoon. From our table we had a ringside seat to watch the market activity winding down—a few tourists snapping pictures, fish sellers rearranging their fish, children and animals roaming the square, friends meeting and kissing. A great scene, and the food was good, too! We were certain that the whole roasted calamari my husband ordered came straight from the market below (we envisioned the waiter running downstairs, grabbing a calamari from the vendor, and running back upstairs). We ended the meal with espresso served in little plastic cups, which seemed perfect for the fun, informal setting.
The other restaurant we ate at in Palermo was Casa del Brodo, at 175 Corso Emmanuel Vittorio, a few blocks from our apartment. The lunch we had at this venerable restaurant was outstanding. However, though we were not poorly dressed, we did get the tourist treatment: the restaurant has 3 smallish dining rooms, and we were seated in the first one. Another diner – also apparently a tourist – was seated in the same room, but all the locals who entered the restaurant were led past our table to the second dining room. The last time we experienced this kind of obvious segregation was in Paris at a trendy chef’s restaurant where we were put in the back room (alone) even though there were tables open in the lively front room. In both cases we enjoyed the same excellent food as the locals but not the same atmosphere. Interesting experience.
After a full day exploring the city we were ready for some fresh air, and Monreale was on the itinerary. On the morning of Day 7 we walked down the street past the Puerta Nuova and caught a 9:30 bus (1.20 euros) for the 30-minute ride up the hill to see the Cathedral and the surrounding town. Here we found the most tourists we would see on the entire trip – probably as many tourists as we would see on all the other days combined. Still, that wasn’t many. There were a few groups of high school students on a class trip, some Japanese and German groups, and, for the first time, a small group of Americans. The latter had an excellent guide and we were lucky to be standing nearby while the guide described the story of the awesome mosaics that surround the interior.
We had seen many pictures of the cathedral’s interior (including R.K. Kwan’s fine shots), but there is just nothing like seeing it in person. Mosaics everywhere! It was hard to believe that this intricate work had been completed in just 11 years. We spent a long time inside and then moved on to the beautiful cloisters, where we were entranced by the columns inlaid with tiles. Though entry to the cloisters costs 6 euros (the cathedral is free), you shouldn’t miss them. The fee may have kept some of the tourists from entering, for we enjoyed a peaceful and quiet time almost alone inside. Most of the exterior of the cathedral is very plain, but it’s worthwhile to take a walk around the building to see the interesting apse end, and to enjoy the great views down to Palermo below. Unfortunately the day we visited was quite hazy, so the views were less than stellar.
We briefly considered walking back to Palermo (it’s all downhill) but decided instead to return by bus in order to take better advantage of our last few hours in the city. Guess what? While walking outside the Teatro Massimo we saw someone murdered. Well, it wasn’t an actual murder – it was part of a movie shoot that was taking place at the same site where scenes from “The Godfather” were shot. A crowd gathered, the actors were placed, the director shouted “accione!” and a machine gun blasted, “killing” a man with a brief case. Everybody smiled, the crowd broke up, and we went on our way.
After Palermo we had only two more nights in Sicily. Our trip was drawing to an end, but the best was yet to come…
Mar 25th, 2007, 01:46 PM
#9
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A,
This is so great! I love the encounter with the parking garage attendant, and the "Murder" for film! So typical! You are confirming what I anticipated, need to brush up on the Italian. But, did you notice, that the Scicilian dialect is nearly a langauge of it's own?
Ciao!
This is so great! I love the encounter with the parking garage attendant, and the "Murder" for film! So typical! You are confirming what I anticipated, need to brush up on the Italian. But, did you notice, that the Scicilian dialect is nearly a langauge of it's own?
Ciao!
Mar 26th, 2007, 07:52 PM
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Unfortunately, my Italian isn't good enough for me to have picked up a difference in the dialect!
Here's the final installment of my report.
Day 8 (Friday) –Segesta, Scopello, Marinella dei Selinunte
The famed Greek temples of Segesta, Selinunte, and Agrigento awaited us, but first things first: we had to make our way back to the garage and pick up our car . . . if it was there.
Our helpful apartment owner called a taxi for us and then waited on his balcony to make sure it came. We waved goodbye and crossed our fingers. A 7-euro cab ride later, our trust was rewarded—the smiling attendant retreated to the dark depths of the garage and drove out with our car. That, I can tell you, was a relief.
Once we escaped the morning rush hour the drive from Palermo to Segesta was straightforward. After about 40 minutes we passed the airport and were surprised to see how far it is from the city. We arrived at Segesta around 10 a.m., where our car was only the second in the parking lot. A tour bus was also parked, and its occupants were coming down from the temple. In the next couple of hours, while we scoped out the ruins, we were joined by two school groups and some random couples, but the site was big enough to easily absorb everyone.
Segesta may be our favorite of the three sets of Greek temples we visited. Waves of yellow, orange, and purple wildflowers had cropped up in the most photogenic way, making perfect foregrounds to the temple. And the temple itself is imposing--hard to believe, really. The amphitheater is set quite a distance up the hill, and the views back to the temple in one direction and out across the valley in another are incomparable. To make the best use of our time we chose to take the shuttle bus up to the amphitheater (an extra 1.5 euros on top of the 6-euro entrance fee) and walk down—no pain, lots of gain. Loved, loved, loved Segesta.
We hated to leave, but we had additional plans for the day. We wanted to explore a bit of the coast and to spend some time walking in the Zingaro nature reserve. So we backtracked a bit, heading north toward Castellammare del Golo. We had intended to stop in Castellammare but our guidebooks’ description of Scopello, a village to the west, was much more appealing: “utterly charming,” with the cove below the village noted as “one of the most idyllic coves of the island.” Who could resist? We couldn’t.
The guidebooks were so right. First we visited the cove and soaked up the (yes) idyllic atmosphere created by the incredible blue waters, interesting rock formations, abandoned pink stucco buildings, and rusting anchors. Be warned: this spot reputedly can get overrun in the summer, but in the off season it is pure heaven. We made our way up the hill to the small, sleepy village of Scopello. Not much there, put picture perfect.
It was lunchtime again (it’s incredible how that happens, every 24 hours), so we scouted out the Torre Benistra II, a charming inn resting on the edge of the cliff overlooking the cove below. The dining room was empty but perfectly appointed, and soon we were welcomed by a young man who assured us that the restaurant was indeed open. He was part of the family who owns and operates the inn. We sampled only their pastas and salad, but they were probably a good insight into the quality of the other dishes the restaurant serves. Outstanding! After we ate, the mother of the family stopped by our table and encouraged us to take a look at the recently renovated guest rooms, which were small but lovely. If we had not had prepaid reservations at a hotel in Marinella di Selinunte, we definitely would have stayed in Scopello that night. If you aren’t visiting in the high season, you won’t regret making Scopello, and the classy Torre Benistra II, the base for your exploration of western Sicily.
I can’t tell you how much we wanted to stay in the area to walk in the Zingaro and visit Trapani, Erice, and Marsala, but our time was limited and we had to move on. We’ll definitely return someday.
How to make a wonderful day 100% better? Make your way to Selinunte for a sunset wander among the ruins.
We had spent enough time in Segesta and Scopello that we arrived at the Selinunte ruins just a few minutes before 4, closing time. Surprisingly, we were allowed to enter the park as the doors shut behind us. What followed were a couple of the most memorable hours of our trip. We had the vast park almost completely to ourselves, encountering only four other people the whole time we were there. The temples and other ruins were inspiring and more than rivaled Segesta’s, if only because of the quantity and the seaside setting. We had a wonderful walk across the entire array of ruins, taking many photos. As the sun began to set we knew we should probably be leaving, but how could we leave when the light was so lovely and promised to be even better 15, 20, 30 minutes from now? So we didn’t.
We settled ourselves on the floor of Temple E and waited for the sun to set, all alone except for the birds chirping away at the top of the columns. Perfect, and unforgettable.
The sun went down and reality quickly set in. Darkness was falling, no one was around, and our car was stuck in the parking lot, gates firmly closed. Fortunately our hotel for the night was within walking distance, in nearby Marinella di Selinunte, so we figured we could find a fence to climb and walk to the hotel if need be. But our car was stuck for the night, unless we could find a way out.
There was a road out of the parking lot, but still within the gates, so we followed it to see if we could find another exit. Near the acropolis area we passed a caretaker’s house. When we explained our predicament (yeah, sure), the caretaker kindly got in his car and led us down to the exit, where he opened the big gates to let us out. Thank you, caretaker!
A few minutes’ drive and we were at our hotel, the Admeto. This is a modern establishment, about a year old. It’s not that attractive from the outside but clean, spare, and fresh inside, a nice change of pace. The hotel seemed to be party central for a large gathering of visiting students who crowded the lobby the whole evening, but fortunately we didn’t hear any noise during the night. Our sea-view room overlooked the town and its harbor, so the next morning we had fun watching the fishermen and other townspeople go about their morning business below.
The town itself seemed like it was waiting for summer to begin--it will likely be much more lively later in the season. Eschewing the hotel restaurant, we dined on wonderful pizzas at Bruno’s, a local trattoria behind the hotel where we really enjoyed the give-and-take between Bruno and the locals who came in for their takeout pizza. Really fun, and a perfect ending to the best day of the trip.
Day 9 (Saturday) – Caltabellotta, Agrigento, Caltagirone
We’re soon to welcome a new daughter-in-law into our family. Her ancestral home is Caltabellotta, a town that hugs the top of a mountainside west of Agrigento, so on our way to our last set of ruins we took a quick sidetrip to get a sense of where her family came from and to take some pictures for her. We only had time enough to walk the quiet streets, find a few postcards to buy, and take in the inspiring view of the valley below, but we were happy to be able to make even a quick visit. Then it was on to our main destination for the day, Agrigento.
Arriving at the parking lot a little after noon was a bit like trying to get out of Catania airport that first morning – wild and crazy. Quite a contrast from the laid-back archeological sites we had visited the day before. There were people and cars everywhere! We slipped into one of the only open spots and wondered what we were doing there. Incredibly though, as we began to explore the site, the people disappeared. Where did they all go? I suspect that most of them went off to have lunch, but wherever it was, we were happy because again we had the temples almost to ourselves. The beautiful sandstone columns gave a different, richer sense than the limestones at Segesta and Selinunte. Note: the most intact temple, the Temple of Concord, has scaffolding on two sides, and the staff at the ticket office couldn’t say when it might be removed. Nonetheless, the site was very impressive.
Before we reached our lodgings for the night we had one more stop. The town of Caltagirone is well known for its ceramics business, and I had saved my shopping dollars in hopes that we would get there. We arrived about 4:00, just as the shops reopened for the afternoon, and headed for the stores that line the massive steps of the upper town. Success! I found some beautiful plates just asking to be purchased. I had to limit myself to what would fit in our carry-on luggage, but I had plenty to choose from.
Our lodgings for the night were at Agriturismo Gigliotti (www.gigliotto.com) near Piazza Armerina. It’s a well-appointed, tourist-oriented working farm set among cactus orchards. There are several cozy bedrooms in the old stone manor house that wraps around a courtyard, and a large dining room serves an excellent set meal each night. A new wing is currently under construction, which will expand the number of guests who can be accommodated. A highly recommended country inn where we would have loved to stay more than one night.
Day 10 (Sunday) – Piazza Armerina and Mt. Etna environs
We were scheduled to depart Sicily on an afternoon flight to Milan, where we would stay overnight before returning to the United States on Monday morning. We thus had only part of the day to make our way back to Catania, but we couldn’t leave without seeing the famous Roman mosaics at Villa Romana dei Casale just outside Piazza Armerina.
We had read about the plastic covering that has been built over the villa to protect the mosaics, so we were expecting the worst. But we found the covering to be fairly unobtrusive since our attention was focused on the amazing mosaics. We arrived about 9 a.m. and again were the first car in the parking lot. (I know, it’s getting old.) As we progressed through the villa, each floor was more stunning than the next. Can Pompeii be any better? We’ll have to visit and make a comparison. In the meantime, we’re convinced that mosaics can’t get much better than those at Villa Romana.
We had a few hours to spare before we need to be at the airport and the sky was almost cloudless, so we charted a route that would take us as close to Mt. Etna as we could get. Though our plans to hike there earlier in the week had fallen through because of the wet weather, we were able to enjoy the stunning views as we approached the mountain from the west. In the town of Adrano, where we hoped to eat lunch, we encountered a wave of cars and people. What was going on? We parked amidst a bunch of other cars and walked around a bit to investigate. Nothing special – apparently just a late Sunday morning gathering of local residents, enjoying each other’s company. We found the restaurant recommended in our guidebook (the Hostaria Bellini) and enjoyed our last Sicilian meal. True to form, we were the only ones there. When we returned to our car, all the pedestrians and cars that had crowded the streets around the square had disappeared.
A little later, back at the airport, we returned our rental car and flew out of Catania to Milan Malpensa. An overnight stay at the Domina Inn and an early morning flight back to Philadelphia ended a wonderful trip. Sicily had truly offered more than we expected.
In case you’re interested, here’s a link to our pictures: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...d=8YaOGbRk2Yhk
Here's the final installment of my report.
Day 8 (Friday) –Segesta, Scopello, Marinella dei Selinunte
The famed Greek temples of Segesta, Selinunte, and Agrigento awaited us, but first things first: we had to make our way back to the garage and pick up our car . . . if it was there.
Our helpful apartment owner called a taxi for us and then waited on his balcony to make sure it came. We waved goodbye and crossed our fingers. A 7-euro cab ride later, our trust was rewarded—the smiling attendant retreated to the dark depths of the garage and drove out with our car. That, I can tell you, was a relief.
Once we escaped the morning rush hour the drive from Palermo to Segesta was straightforward. After about 40 minutes we passed the airport and were surprised to see how far it is from the city. We arrived at Segesta around 10 a.m., where our car was only the second in the parking lot. A tour bus was also parked, and its occupants were coming down from the temple. In the next couple of hours, while we scoped out the ruins, we were joined by two school groups and some random couples, but the site was big enough to easily absorb everyone.
Segesta may be our favorite of the three sets of Greek temples we visited. Waves of yellow, orange, and purple wildflowers had cropped up in the most photogenic way, making perfect foregrounds to the temple. And the temple itself is imposing--hard to believe, really. The amphitheater is set quite a distance up the hill, and the views back to the temple in one direction and out across the valley in another are incomparable. To make the best use of our time we chose to take the shuttle bus up to the amphitheater (an extra 1.5 euros on top of the 6-euro entrance fee) and walk down—no pain, lots of gain. Loved, loved, loved Segesta.
We hated to leave, but we had additional plans for the day. We wanted to explore a bit of the coast and to spend some time walking in the Zingaro nature reserve. So we backtracked a bit, heading north toward Castellammare del Golo. We had intended to stop in Castellammare but our guidebooks’ description of Scopello, a village to the west, was much more appealing: “utterly charming,” with the cove below the village noted as “one of the most idyllic coves of the island.” Who could resist? We couldn’t.
The guidebooks were so right. First we visited the cove and soaked up the (yes) idyllic atmosphere created by the incredible blue waters, interesting rock formations, abandoned pink stucco buildings, and rusting anchors. Be warned: this spot reputedly can get overrun in the summer, but in the off season it is pure heaven. We made our way up the hill to the small, sleepy village of Scopello. Not much there, put picture perfect.
It was lunchtime again (it’s incredible how that happens, every 24 hours), so we scouted out the Torre Benistra II, a charming inn resting on the edge of the cliff overlooking the cove below. The dining room was empty but perfectly appointed, and soon we were welcomed by a young man who assured us that the restaurant was indeed open. He was part of the family who owns and operates the inn. We sampled only their pastas and salad, but they were probably a good insight into the quality of the other dishes the restaurant serves. Outstanding! After we ate, the mother of the family stopped by our table and encouraged us to take a look at the recently renovated guest rooms, which were small but lovely. If we had not had prepaid reservations at a hotel in Marinella di Selinunte, we definitely would have stayed in Scopello that night. If you aren’t visiting in the high season, you won’t regret making Scopello, and the classy Torre Benistra II, the base for your exploration of western Sicily.
I can’t tell you how much we wanted to stay in the area to walk in the Zingaro and visit Trapani, Erice, and Marsala, but our time was limited and we had to move on. We’ll definitely return someday.
How to make a wonderful day 100% better? Make your way to Selinunte for a sunset wander among the ruins.
We had spent enough time in Segesta and Scopello that we arrived at the Selinunte ruins just a few minutes before 4, closing time. Surprisingly, we were allowed to enter the park as the doors shut behind us. What followed were a couple of the most memorable hours of our trip. We had the vast park almost completely to ourselves, encountering only four other people the whole time we were there. The temples and other ruins were inspiring and more than rivaled Segesta’s, if only because of the quantity and the seaside setting. We had a wonderful walk across the entire array of ruins, taking many photos. As the sun began to set we knew we should probably be leaving, but how could we leave when the light was so lovely and promised to be even better 15, 20, 30 minutes from now? So we didn’t.
We settled ourselves on the floor of Temple E and waited for the sun to set, all alone except for the birds chirping away at the top of the columns. Perfect, and unforgettable.
The sun went down and reality quickly set in. Darkness was falling, no one was around, and our car was stuck in the parking lot, gates firmly closed. Fortunately our hotel for the night was within walking distance, in nearby Marinella di Selinunte, so we figured we could find a fence to climb and walk to the hotel if need be. But our car was stuck for the night, unless we could find a way out.
There was a road out of the parking lot, but still within the gates, so we followed it to see if we could find another exit. Near the acropolis area we passed a caretaker’s house. When we explained our predicament (yeah, sure), the caretaker kindly got in his car and led us down to the exit, where he opened the big gates to let us out. Thank you, caretaker!
A few minutes’ drive and we were at our hotel, the Admeto. This is a modern establishment, about a year old. It’s not that attractive from the outside but clean, spare, and fresh inside, a nice change of pace. The hotel seemed to be party central for a large gathering of visiting students who crowded the lobby the whole evening, but fortunately we didn’t hear any noise during the night. Our sea-view room overlooked the town and its harbor, so the next morning we had fun watching the fishermen and other townspeople go about their morning business below.
The town itself seemed like it was waiting for summer to begin--it will likely be much more lively later in the season. Eschewing the hotel restaurant, we dined on wonderful pizzas at Bruno’s, a local trattoria behind the hotel where we really enjoyed the give-and-take between Bruno and the locals who came in for their takeout pizza. Really fun, and a perfect ending to the best day of the trip.
Day 9 (Saturday) – Caltabellotta, Agrigento, Caltagirone
We’re soon to welcome a new daughter-in-law into our family. Her ancestral home is Caltabellotta, a town that hugs the top of a mountainside west of Agrigento, so on our way to our last set of ruins we took a quick sidetrip to get a sense of where her family came from and to take some pictures for her. We only had time enough to walk the quiet streets, find a few postcards to buy, and take in the inspiring view of the valley below, but we were happy to be able to make even a quick visit. Then it was on to our main destination for the day, Agrigento.
Arriving at the parking lot a little after noon was a bit like trying to get out of Catania airport that first morning – wild and crazy. Quite a contrast from the laid-back archeological sites we had visited the day before. There were people and cars everywhere! We slipped into one of the only open spots and wondered what we were doing there. Incredibly though, as we began to explore the site, the people disappeared. Where did they all go? I suspect that most of them went off to have lunch, but wherever it was, we were happy because again we had the temples almost to ourselves. The beautiful sandstone columns gave a different, richer sense than the limestones at Segesta and Selinunte. Note: the most intact temple, the Temple of Concord, has scaffolding on two sides, and the staff at the ticket office couldn’t say when it might be removed. Nonetheless, the site was very impressive.
Before we reached our lodgings for the night we had one more stop. The town of Caltagirone is well known for its ceramics business, and I had saved my shopping dollars in hopes that we would get there. We arrived about 4:00, just as the shops reopened for the afternoon, and headed for the stores that line the massive steps of the upper town. Success! I found some beautiful plates just asking to be purchased. I had to limit myself to what would fit in our carry-on luggage, but I had plenty to choose from.
Our lodgings for the night were at Agriturismo Gigliotti (www.gigliotto.com) near Piazza Armerina. It’s a well-appointed, tourist-oriented working farm set among cactus orchards. There are several cozy bedrooms in the old stone manor house that wraps around a courtyard, and a large dining room serves an excellent set meal each night. A new wing is currently under construction, which will expand the number of guests who can be accommodated. A highly recommended country inn where we would have loved to stay more than one night.
Day 10 (Sunday) – Piazza Armerina and Mt. Etna environs
We were scheduled to depart Sicily on an afternoon flight to Milan, where we would stay overnight before returning to the United States on Monday morning. We thus had only part of the day to make our way back to Catania, but we couldn’t leave without seeing the famous Roman mosaics at Villa Romana dei Casale just outside Piazza Armerina.
We had read about the plastic covering that has been built over the villa to protect the mosaics, so we were expecting the worst. But we found the covering to be fairly unobtrusive since our attention was focused on the amazing mosaics. We arrived about 9 a.m. and again were the first car in the parking lot. (I know, it’s getting old.) As we progressed through the villa, each floor was more stunning than the next. Can Pompeii be any better? We’ll have to visit and make a comparison. In the meantime, we’re convinced that mosaics can’t get much better than those at Villa Romana.
We had a few hours to spare before we need to be at the airport and the sky was almost cloudless, so we charted a route that would take us as close to Mt. Etna as we could get. Though our plans to hike there earlier in the week had fallen through because of the wet weather, we were able to enjoy the stunning views as we approached the mountain from the west. In the town of Adrano, where we hoped to eat lunch, we encountered a wave of cars and people. What was going on? We parked amidst a bunch of other cars and walked around a bit to investigate. Nothing special – apparently just a late Sunday morning gathering of local residents, enjoying each other’s company. We found the restaurant recommended in our guidebook (the Hostaria Bellini) and enjoyed our last Sicilian meal. True to form, we were the only ones there. When we returned to our car, all the pedestrians and cars that had crowded the streets around the square had disappeared.
A little later, back at the airport, we returned our rental car and flew out of Catania to Milan Malpensa. An overnight stay at the Domina Inn and an early morning flight back to Philadelphia ended a wonderful trip. Sicily had truly offered more than we expected.
In case you’re interested, here’s a link to our pictures: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...d=8YaOGbRk2Yhk
Mar 27th, 2007, 03:44 PM
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Thanks to all--it's fun to do a trip report because it brings a little discipline to the memories.
Bob -- yes, we did visit some of the same places you did. We really enjoyed the Agriturismo Gigliotti and I think you did too. The restaurant was quite an operation, wasn't it? Did you notice how they have it down to a science -- the place setting included 3 clean plates stacked on top of each other. (That was our clue that we were going to have at least a 3-course meal.) The food was brought out on a separate plate and shared at the table, so all the wait staff had to do was remove the dirty plates. Pretty efficient (and tasty)!
Bob -- yes, we did visit some of the same places you did. We really enjoyed the Agriturismo Gigliotti and I think you did too. The restaurant was quite an operation, wasn't it? Did you notice how they have it down to a science -- the place setting included 3 clean plates stacked on top of each other. (That was our clue that we were going to have at least a 3-course meal.) The food was brought out on a separate plate and shared at the table, so all the wait staff had to do was remove the dirty plates. Pretty efficient (and tasty)!
Mar 27th, 2007, 10:12 PM
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A Question for Anita and Bob the Nav. (or anyone)
We'll be in Sicily in April. We have reservations in Agrigento, Taormina and Siracusa. We were also planning for 3 days in Palermo. However, because we will also be spending a number of days in both Napoli and Rome, we are now wondering if we might enjoy those 3 days more exploring the countryside and the smaller towns in the west of the island.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
Have enjoyed the reports (and great photos) of Sicily by both of you.
Thanks!
We'll be in Sicily in April. We have reservations in Agrigento, Taormina and Siracusa. We were also planning for 3 days in Palermo. However, because we will also be spending a number of days in both Napoli and Rome, we are now wondering if we might enjoy those 3 days more exploring the countryside and the smaller towns in the west of the island.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
Have enjoyed the reports (and great photos) of Sicily by both of you.
Thanks!
Mar 28th, 2007, 05:03 AM
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Barbinto -- we love to travel with Canadians, so we're on for a trip with you anytime -- you pick the date and place! And yes, the food and wine was excellent on this trip. My only complaint was that the food tended bo be too salty. The wines were interesting and inexpensive. My husband is a dedicated wine enthusiast and he brought along an index card filled with all the wines he wanted us to try. We made a pretty good dent and still had money in our pockets at the end of the trip.
robertsmyth -- your question is a really tough one. Fortunately, it's a win-sin situation. You have only 6 nights in Sicily, right? And you obviously like to visit cities, since you have Rome and Naples on your itinerary. That leads me to believe you should keep Palermo, at least for 2 nights.
On the other hand, I've never been to Naples, but from what I've read and seen about it, the atmosphere seems similar to that in Palermo (crowded streets, motorbikes, etc). Palermo is definitely worth 3 days, but it's a whole different vibe from the countryside and towns to the west.
It all depends on what you're looking for. And you will get back to Sicily again, right?
I guess my choice, given your whole itinerary (others may differ), would be to base yourself for the 3 days at one of the towns in the west (or even Scopello, my new favorite village) and forgo Palermo this time--or visit it as a day trip from your western base.
On the other hand...
Have a great trip!
robertsmyth -- your question is a really tough one. Fortunately, it's a win-sin situation. You have only 6 nights in Sicily, right? And you obviously like to visit cities, since you have Rome and Naples on your itinerary. That leads me to believe you should keep Palermo, at least for 2 nights.
On the other hand, I've never been to Naples, but from what I've read and seen about it, the atmosphere seems similar to that in Palermo (crowded streets, motorbikes, etc). Palermo is definitely worth 3 days, but it's a whole different vibe from the countryside and towns to the west.
It all depends on what you're looking for. And you will get back to Sicily again, right?
I guess my choice, given your whole itinerary (others may differ), would be to base yourself for the 3 days at one of the towns in the west (or even Scopello, my new favorite village) and forgo Palermo this time--or visit it as a day trip from your western base.
On the other hand...
Have a great trip!
Mar 28th, 2007, 05:24 AM
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I adore Sicily. I can't count the number of times I've been. Still, I haven't seen it all. That says something about such a small place. The more you get into Sicily the more you find there is to see. People are very surprised when they ask if a week is enough time to see Sicily, and I say - no way. It's so difficult for me to tell people where to "base". To me Palermo is Naples is great shape. I love Palermo. Capuchin catacombes to gorgeous beaches and churches, theatres, mountain vistas, street markets,food, the sounds of Palermo - amazing. Day trips are very easy. On the east side, there is of course Taormina, but to visit not to base. Base at the local beach resort of Letojanni. Lovely and right on the train line. Ortigia of Siracusa! Then you need a week to see the Aeolian Islands! How to get back to Naples? Milazzo very early morning, then island hop to take the overnight ferry from Stromboli at 10PM.
Mar 28th, 2007, 08:21 AM
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A, thanks again for such a great trip report! Now, I'm drooling over Sicily and temped to postpone Germany....
Since there are some experts on this thread, I was thinking I would spend 2 weeks seeing Sicily and the Aeolian Islands. Just as a pure starting idea. Originally thinking of Sept to avoid summer crowds on the islands but still get nice weather and good sea temps.
Should I reconsider and plan for spring? I do love green and wildflowers. Your opinions?
Since there are some experts on this thread, I was thinking I would spend 2 weeks seeing Sicily and the Aeolian Islands. Just as a pure starting idea. Originally thinking of Sept to avoid summer crowds on the islands but still get nice weather and good sea temps.
Should I reconsider and plan for spring? I do love green and wildflowers. Your opinions?
