Trip Report, Sicily--10 Nights in April
May 4th, 2023, 08:55 AM
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Trip Report, Sicily--10 Nights in April
We returned from Sicily a few days ago, so this report is fresh! I've written a brief Itinerary and logistics section, followed by details of each stop and few afterthoughts,
Itinerary/Logistics:
My husband and I, in our 60’s, from the U.S. 3 nights Ortigia, 3 nights Modica, 1 night Piazza Armerina, 3 nights Palermo. We flew into Catania and out of Palermo, rented a car in Siricusa and returned it in Cefalu. Flew out of JFK NY on ITA on a Thursday night. We were surprised to find that the suitcases we’ve taken to many countries were over size and weight, so had to check them. Originally we only had an hour to make the connection from Rome to Catania and we were slightly delayed. An ITA employee met the 6 us us going on to Catania and raced us through the (large, beautiful) Rome airport to catch our flight. I’m glad we had our flights on one ticket. Return flight from Palermo was smooth.
Car rental was from Europcar arranged online via Auto Europe. Picked up in Siricusa and dropped it off in Cefalu—everything went smoothly.
We planned to take the bus from Catania airport to Siricusa, but our lodgings were at the far end of the island and we decided a cab or long walk might be one step too many after the long flight. We booked a ride with New Travel Services and our driver, Angelo, was great. I highly recommend them.
Ortigia:
We had a lovely air bnb in the charming, peaceful Guidecca neighborhood. Highlights (in no particular order): 1) The seaside walkway around the island. There was much more water than I expected from looking at maps and strolling along the Ionian Sea was a pleasure. 2) Relaxing on the terrace, overlooking rooftops to the sea. Terraces were a highlight of the entire trip. 3) The market—we got amazing oranges, strawberries, cheeses, pistachios and other delights. The vendors were so nice, and it’s a good-size market— big enough but not overwhelming. Because we stayed at Airbnb’s we took full advantage of the markets and small stores for fresh produce, cheeses, breads and cured meats. We didn’t do any cooking but assembled breakfast and sometimes lunch or dinner from our treasure chest of foods. 4) At the end of the market we had amazing sandwiches at Caseficio Borderi. They are huge, we could each only eat half, so we probably would have equally enjoyed one of their platters. (And their prices are very good.) That is also where I had my first spremuta d’aranchia (fresh squeezed orange juice), this one mixed with pomegranate juice. After that I had them everywhere! 4) Lunch at Santo Spirito was one of the best meals we’ve ever had. We ordered a la carte, not the tasting menu, but they brought us many extras so it seemed like a tasting menu. Everything was delicious and beautifully presented. If you can splurge on one meal on your trip, I highly recommend it. 5) We really enjoyed the Guidecca neighborhood. Some streets of the island are crowded and lined with tourist shops, but Guidecca is small and peaceful, with some lovely places to eat and shop. I especially enjoyed Pasta Norma at Taverna Guidecca and DoLu ceramics shop and studio on Via Larga. On Monday we picked up a car in Siricusa and drove to Modica.
Modica:
We stayed in a gorgeous air bnb tucked away on a hillside above a church, with incredible views. It takes a bit to get oriented to Modica—it’s basically stacked on hillsides surrounding two long streets. It’s more working town than tourist, with marvelous historic sites. The most amazing is the Chiesa of San Nicolo Inferiore, a tiny 12th century church carved into a cave, with Byzantine frescoes. The San Giorgio Cathedral is very beautiful. You’ll hear a lot about the steps in Modica—especially the 300 to the cathedral (it was over 100 to our lodgings) but you are climbing through a charming old village—quintessentially Italian, with lots of lovely scenes on the way, and no need to hurry. In the evenings we enjoyed walking along Corso Umberto, buying chocolate as gifts and eating gelato. One night we had a delicious dinner at Trattoria L’Arco. My pasta Lollini with chopped pistachios and basil pesto may have been my favorite pasta of the trip. One night we ate good pizza at Acquae Farina, and another we picnicked on the terrace after having had a large lunch in Ragusa. We bought amazing fresh ricotta at the supermarket, drizzled it with honey, surrounded with fresh fruits and bread—that was several meals, and I miss that ricotta!
We went to Ragusa Ibla, for a few hours, a very pretty drive, I went crazy over the roadside wildflowers, and the views of Ragusa from the road are incredible. It’s a very pretty town and I can see why people love it. Another day we drove to Cava d’Ispica, which was fascinating (and I got to pick wildflowers) , and then a quick drive through Pozzolo (it was getting dark)— the town was much larger than I expected, and the beaches were wide and sandy. By the way, the driving was fine, all of the roads we went on were well-maintained and signage was good. In some of the villages we encountered the usual mazes, narrow streets and surprise one-ways, but that is to be expected. We easily found a parking lot in Ragusa.
Villa Romana del Casale/Piazza Armerina:
We drove from Modica to Villa Romana del Casale, a pretty country drive, arriving around lunchtime. We decided to hire a guide, and I’m glad we did— we learned so much more from her than we would have on our own. The site is truly amazing.
Then we drove to the historic center of Piazza Armerina, and after many twists and turns found L’Angelica B&B. The hosts, Ettore and Ines, made us feel like family. We were welcomed with coffee and biscotti. The breakfast was an enormous, tantalizing choice of foods, including 6 jams made by Ettore, who is a chef. Best of all was the (optional, but it’s a must do) 5-course family style dinner Ettore cooked. Delicious and fun, well worth the 35 euro price. An experience we will treasure. Piazza Armerina is a very pretty, historic town with lots of churches, well worth a stop.
We dropped the car off in Cefalu and took the train to Palermo. Beautiful train ride. That blue sea! A mix of cerulean and cobalt with a touch of ultramarine.
Palermo:
We fell in love with Palermo— stayed in a gorgeous air bnb in an old villa in the La Kalsa neighborhood. La Kalsa is perfect—quieter than the center but close to it. Charming small streets and wonderful little places to eat, drink and shop. Not commercial. A few highlights: 1) My husband went on Walking Tour Palermo and had a great time. (I was signed up, but wanted a quiet morning on my own. ) The tour was about 2/3 history and 1/3 food tasting. He later filled me in on a lot of history that I wouldn’t have learned otherwise. 2) La Martorana- my favorite of all the churches on the trip. Exquisite Byzantine mosaics. One morning I visited three churches—San Cataldo, La Martorana, and Oratorio di San Lorenzo—- three very different styles —-a perfect trilogy. 3) La Kalsa— Our lodging was on a quiet small street. In addition to historic sights there we enjoyed The Gallery of Modern Art, The International Puppet Museum (and the show they put on daily), and the Sunday morning vintage flea market in Piazza Marina. There’s a wonderful little street—Alessandro Paternostro with a bookstore, some artisan shops as well as places to eat a drink. I particularly loved, and bought gifts from two stores: Cianciana and Idee Store Paper. We had excellent sandwiches at Alcolica, and there’s a nice little cafe across the street called New Art 108. We had two okay dinners and a very good one at Sikulo bistro—my husband raved about his chili pasta with pecorino, wild mushrooms pancetta and pistachios; it was a half-hour walk, well past Teatro Massimo. Palermo was buzzing with happy, creative energy—I wanted more time there.
Afterthoughts:
I’ve only been home a few days, but Sicily still lingers fresh in my memories—church bell, fresh ricotta, wildflowers, and the people we encountered, who were, without exception, friendly, kind and helpful. The flavors, the sights, the scenery, all marvelous. We were very lucky with the weather—it only rained the last day, and temperatures we moderate (high 63-72 F.) My plan was to divide time between sea, hill/mountains, and city, and our itinerary accomplished that. I would have loved more time of course, even a couple days, which I would have spent in Palermo, and visited Cefalu and Segesta. I think we would have enjoyed my alternate itinerary—Palermo, Trapani and the Madonie Mountains, as much if not more. We probably would have enjoyed Catania. I did less historic sights than I expected and more strolling and wandering. A memorable trip to a very special place.
Itinerary/Logistics:
My husband and I, in our 60’s, from the U.S. 3 nights Ortigia, 3 nights Modica, 1 night Piazza Armerina, 3 nights Palermo. We flew into Catania and out of Palermo, rented a car in Siricusa and returned it in Cefalu. Flew out of JFK NY on ITA on a Thursday night. We were surprised to find that the suitcases we’ve taken to many countries were over size and weight, so had to check them. Originally we only had an hour to make the connection from Rome to Catania and we were slightly delayed. An ITA employee met the 6 us us going on to Catania and raced us through the (large, beautiful) Rome airport to catch our flight. I’m glad we had our flights on one ticket. Return flight from Palermo was smooth.
Car rental was from Europcar arranged online via Auto Europe. Picked up in Siricusa and dropped it off in Cefalu—everything went smoothly.
We planned to take the bus from Catania airport to Siricusa, but our lodgings were at the far end of the island and we decided a cab or long walk might be one step too many after the long flight. We booked a ride with New Travel Services and our driver, Angelo, was great. I highly recommend them.
Ortigia:
We had a lovely air bnb in the charming, peaceful Guidecca neighborhood. Highlights (in no particular order): 1) The seaside walkway around the island. There was much more water than I expected from looking at maps and strolling along the Ionian Sea was a pleasure. 2) Relaxing on the terrace, overlooking rooftops to the sea. Terraces were a highlight of the entire trip. 3) The market—we got amazing oranges, strawberries, cheeses, pistachios and other delights. The vendors were so nice, and it’s a good-size market— big enough but not overwhelming. Because we stayed at Airbnb’s we took full advantage of the markets and small stores for fresh produce, cheeses, breads and cured meats. We didn’t do any cooking but assembled breakfast and sometimes lunch or dinner from our treasure chest of foods. 4) At the end of the market we had amazing sandwiches at Caseficio Borderi. They are huge, we could each only eat half, so we probably would have equally enjoyed one of their platters. (And their prices are very good.) That is also where I had my first spremuta d’aranchia (fresh squeezed orange juice), this one mixed with pomegranate juice. After that I had them everywhere! 4) Lunch at Santo Spirito was one of the best meals we’ve ever had. We ordered a la carte, not the tasting menu, but they brought us many extras so it seemed like a tasting menu. Everything was delicious and beautifully presented. If you can splurge on one meal on your trip, I highly recommend it. 5) We really enjoyed the Guidecca neighborhood. Some streets of the island are crowded and lined with tourist shops, but Guidecca is small and peaceful, with some lovely places to eat and shop. I especially enjoyed Pasta Norma at Taverna Guidecca and DoLu ceramics shop and studio on Via Larga. On Monday we picked up a car in Siricusa and drove to Modica.
Modica:
We stayed in a gorgeous air bnb tucked away on a hillside above a church, with incredible views. It takes a bit to get oriented to Modica—it’s basically stacked on hillsides surrounding two long streets. It’s more working town than tourist, with marvelous historic sites. The most amazing is the Chiesa of San Nicolo Inferiore, a tiny 12th century church carved into a cave, with Byzantine frescoes. The San Giorgio Cathedral is very beautiful. You’ll hear a lot about the steps in Modica—especially the 300 to the cathedral (it was over 100 to our lodgings) but you are climbing through a charming old village—quintessentially Italian, with lots of lovely scenes on the way, and no need to hurry. In the evenings we enjoyed walking along Corso Umberto, buying chocolate as gifts and eating gelato. One night we had a delicious dinner at Trattoria L’Arco. My pasta Lollini with chopped pistachios and basil pesto may have been my favorite pasta of the trip. One night we ate good pizza at Acquae Farina, and another we picnicked on the terrace after having had a large lunch in Ragusa. We bought amazing fresh ricotta at the supermarket, drizzled it with honey, surrounded with fresh fruits and bread—that was several meals, and I miss that ricotta!
We went to Ragusa Ibla, for a few hours, a very pretty drive, I went crazy over the roadside wildflowers, and the views of Ragusa from the road are incredible. It’s a very pretty town and I can see why people love it. Another day we drove to Cava d’Ispica, which was fascinating (and I got to pick wildflowers) , and then a quick drive through Pozzolo (it was getting dark)— the town was much larger than I expected, and the beaches were wide and sandy. By the way, the driving was fine, all of the roads we went on were well-maintained and signage was good. In some of the villages we encountered the usual mazes, narrow streets and surprise one-ways, but that is to be expected. We easily found a parking lot in Ragusa.
Villa Romana del Casale/Piazza Armerina:
We drove from Modica to Villa Romana del Casale, a pretty country drive, arriving around lunchtime. We decided to hire a guide, and I’m glad we did— we learned so much more from her than we would have on our own. The site is truly amazing.
Then we drove to the historic center of Piazza Armerina, and after many twists and turns found L’Angelica B&B. The hosts, Ettore and Ines, made us feel like family. We were welcomed with coffee and biscotti. The breakfast was an enormous, tantalizing choice of foods, including 6 jams made by Ettore, who is a chef. Best of all was the (optional, but it’s a must do) 5-course family style dinner Ettore cooked. Delicious and fun, well worth the 35 euro price. An experience we will treasure. Piazza Armerina is a very pretty, historic town with lots of churches, well worth a stop.
We dropped the car off in Cefalu and took the train to Palermo. Beautiful train ride. That blue sea! A mix of cerulean and cobalt with a touch of ultramarine.
Palermo:
We fell in love with Palermo— stayed in a gorgeous air bnb in an old villa in the La Kalsa neighborhood. La Kalsa is perfect—quieter than the center but close to it. Charming small streets and wonderful little places to eat, drink and shop. Not commercial. A few highlights: 1) My husband went on Walking Tour Palermo and had a great time. (I was signed up, but wanted a quiet morning on my own. ) The tour was about 2/3 history and 1/3 food tasting. He later filled me in on a lot of history that I wouldn’t have learned otherwise. 2) La Martorana- my favorite of all the churches on the trip. Exquisite Byzantine mosaics. One morning I visited three churches—San Cataldo, La Martorana, and Oratorio di San Lorenzo—- three very different styles —-a perfect trilogy. 3) La Kalsa— Our lodging was on a quiet small street. In addition to historic sights there we enjoyed The Gallery of Modern Art, The International Puppet Museum (and the show they put on daily), and the Sunday morning vintage flea market in Piazza Marina. There’s a wonderful little street—Alessandro Paternostro with a bookstore, some artisan shops as well as places to eat a drink. I particularly loved, and bought gifts from two stores: Cianciana and Idee Store Paper. We had excellent sandwiches at Alcolica, and there’s a nice little cafe across the street called New Art 108. We had two okay dinners and a very good one at Sikulo bistro—my husband raved about his chili pasta with pecorino, wild mushrooms pancetta and pistachios; it was a half-hour walk, well past Teatro Massimo. Palermo was buzzing with happy, creative energy—I wanted more time there.
Afterthoughts:
I’ve only been home a few days, but Sicily still lingers fresh in my memories—church bell, fresh ricotta, wildflowers, and the people we encountered, who were, without exception, friendly, kind and helpful. The flavors, the sights, the scenery, all marvelous. We were very lucky with the weather—it only rained the last day, and temperatures we moderate (high 63-72 F.) My plan was to divide time between sea, hill/mountains, and city, and our itinerary accomplished that. I would have loved more time of course, even a couple days, which I would have spent in Palermo, and visited Cefalu and Segesta. I think we would have enjoyed my alternate itinerary—Palermo, Trapani and the Madonie Mountains, as much if not more. We probably would have enjoyed Catania. I did less historic sights than I expected and more strolling and wandering. A memorable trip to a very special place.
May 5th, 2023, 01:46 PM
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Thanks for your TR, brought back such happy memories of our April 2022 trip. We flew into Palermo for 5 nights, then Agrigento 1, Ortigia 4 and Catania 3, in all 13 nights.
We were a little wary of Palermo, but it was an unexpected surprise, we loved every moment of our stay. We took the bus to Monreale one day and were spellbound by the most wondrous mosaics ever. The Martorana church too, also the Capella Palatina in the royal palace, don’t believe I have seen the like before in all my travels!
We made a day trip to Noto from Ortygia, then up to Catania before flying to Naples and the Amalfi Coast. But Sicily made a special place in my heart, thanks again for bringing it back again!
We were a little wary of Palermo, but it was an unexpected surprise, we loved every moment of our stay. We took the bus to Monreale one day and were spellbound by the most wondrous mosaics ever. The Martorana church too, also the Capella Palatina in the royal palace, don’t believe I have seen the like before in all my travels!
We made a day trip to Noto from Ortygia, then up to Catania before flying to Naples and the Amalfi Coast. But Sicily made a special place in my heart, thanks again for bringing it back again!
May 6th, 2023, 06:03 AM
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Fantastic trip report Jennifer! Thank you SO much for details! I also sent you a PM for a few more questions.
we were leery of driving as it’s been a decade since last in Italy and husband is now 73.
We were debating renting car and driving after Ortigia to visit Romana del casale en route to Palermo in a day: not an overnight.
we could drop car as you did in Cefalu.
what do you think?
thanks so much again for your terrific details! I am using for our trip end of September
we were leery of driving as it’s been a decade since last in Italy and husband is now 73.
We were debating renting car and driving after Ortigia to visit Romana del casale en route to Palermo in a day: not an overnight.
we could drop car as you did in Cefalu.
what do you think?
thanks so much again for your terrific details! I am using for our trip end of September
May 6th, 2023, 03:52 PM
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Hi SDsunflower--It's hard to say (about driving). My husband has driven in Italy several times, but it's been about 5 years, and I feel like he was more stressed this time. However the roads are great and well-marked and weren't crowded (except getting out of Siricusa and into Cefalu.) Our GPS worked 90% of the time (both car and phone--though a little crazy in town).
It could certainly certainly be done in a day, though a long one. It looks like each driving leg of the trip would be about 2 hours, plus time getting to the car rental and picking it up and dropping off the car, plus lunch, plus visiting Villa Romana (I'd allow about 1.5 hours for that.) Then you walk to the train station, about 10 minutes, train ride is 50 minutes, then you have to get to your lodgings. So it's a lot of transitions. Could be done if you have the stamina and pace yourself for a long day.
It could certainly certainly be done in a day, though a long one. It looks like each driving leg of the trip would be about 2 hours, plus time getting to the car rental and picking it up and dropping off the car, plus lunch, plus visiting Villa Romana (I'd allow about 1.5 hours for that.) Then you walk to the train station, about 10 minutes, train ride is 50 minutes, then you have to get to your lodgings. So it's a lot of transitions. Could be done if you have the stamina and pace yourself for a long day.
May 6th, 2023, 06:14 PM
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Enjoyed your report of Sicily. We visited Italy, once, in the 1970's. I know. . . a LONG time ago. We hope to return in a few years and spend a month or so, and want to include Sicily. What was your favorite place? And what would be the minimum amount of time to spend in Sicily? To get a good overview. What was the cost of your private driver? Thank you!
May 7th, 2023, 06:51 AM
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Three weeks would be perfect, the minimum you need IMO. We had 13 nights, visiting only Palermo, Agrigento, Ortygia and Catania, with day trips to Monreale and Noto. No time for Cefalu and other places in the area, nor Piazza Armerina, Ragusa, etc. We’d been to Taormina and Mt Etna on a previous trip, so didn’t go there this time.
Unfortunately there’s so much to see and not enough time, especially for those of us in the sixties. So we prefer to go on to a new destination instead of revisiting the same place again. With Paris and London probably being the only exceptions, though we have Rome planned for the Thanksgiving week.
Unfortunately there’s so much to see and not enough time, especially for those of us in the sixties. So we prefer to go on to a new destination instead of revisiting the same place again. With Paris and London probably being the only exceptions, though we have Rome planned for the Thanksgiving week.
May 7th, 2023, 01:20 PM
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Hi KarenWoo--a month in Italy would be amazing. To be honest, there's so much variety to see and do on the mainland I would stay there, unless you have a particular reason to visit Sicily, such as searching ancestral roots.
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