kazoo

It's been a while since I posted, but I wanted to share some details from a recent trip through the Scottish Highlands, as I have some tips which others might find useful and I would have appreciated in advance.

I was traveling with my parents, who are mid-70s, have some limited mobility (back trouble and knees, so stairs and too much hiking is an issue, though they're both quite active in spite of this), and some hearing limitations.

We took the train (first class recommended, with assigned seats) from London round trip to Edinburgh, and it was so much better than dealing with airports. That said, getting bags through the stations and down to the platforms with limited time after they're posted can be stressful. Also, be sure to note how much time there is between arriving and when you can check in to your lodging, otherwise, you may need to find somewhere to camp out with bags - we had about an hour, and I planned to have tea at the Balmoral Hotel, which is stunning and next door to the station.

I'll skip our time in Edinburgh, since any top ten guide to the city will cover plenty. My only tip is to be sure to note if you're going to be there during the Fringe Festival and, if so, plan extra time getting places due to heavy crowds and road closures (Uber is operational and easy). I'd also suggest booking dinner using OpenTable, so you can be sure to get in somewhere. Last tip would be to get the Explorer Pass, if you're going to see Edinburgh Castle, Stirling Castle, and Urqhart Castle - and try to get there first thing. The pass lets you skip the queue for tickets, but there will still be a lot of people with the pass.

We hired a private driver / guide for a 4-day circular tour of the Highlands - Craig McCall Flynn of Mini Tours Scotland, whom I'd recommend. His information can be found here: Mini Tours Scotland - Private and personal guided tours of Scotland with local Scottish tour guide

It was a bit pricey, but it ended up being worth it. We didn't want to worry about driving on the opposite side of the road while trying to navigate when tired. Craig had a large Mercedes mini-van, which was very comfortable for touring and made it easy with bags. He picked us up at our AirBnB in Edinburgh and we went to Stirling Castle first. He was constantly pointing out monuments and details and history, which was helpful. Though, for anyone hard of hearing, the accent and on-going stream can be a challenge. Also, some might find that he's sharing too much, but I'd note that we discussed the difference between hiring a driver only versus a guide, and Craig definitely is a guide, not a driver, and he'll accompany you into sites, like the castles, and even go hiking with you. So, if you want something different, discuss it first.

We saw a lot of monuments critical to the Jacobites and various Scottish wars of independence. The tourist office in Edinburgh has a handy map of these historical happenings, which is useful to have before you're on the road, if you like to read along or need to help someone who is hard of hearing. Craig had great suggestions for lunch along the way on each day, mostly local pubs but old and beautiful with great food. We ended the first day in the Fort William / Glencoe area, so that we could leave early for the Isle of Skye the next morning. We booked all of our own hotels using Booking.com, though Craig will book things if you like. I wanted a bit more control over lodging, since the trip was around my parents' 53rd anniversary.

One critical thing to note, if you're going in the high season or over weekends, it can be hard to find lodging for one night only, so be sure to look in advance. Also, consider if there is a restaurant onsite, to make it easier after a long day of touring. We stayed here the first night: The Holly Tree Hotel Luxury Waterfront Hotel Glencoe The location is gorgeous, and they have a pool/sauna. The restaurant was also well-rated and delivered on delicious seafood.

We took the ferry to the Isle of Skye the next day, stopping along the route and small points of interest. Craig booked the ferry, which one needs to do far enough in advance. And we had another great lunch at the old Slingachan Hotel, next to the bridge, which is just breathtaking: Sligachan Hotel From there, we had decided that we wanted to see an archeological site a bit off the beaten track, so we chose not to do the usual route north around the island (which is actually quite large and with slow roads, so two days is ideal, if you can manage it). We saw peat bogs, tons of sheep, and had an incredible time hiking up to Dun Beag Brock. We also had it all to ourselves, a rarity, which was incredible. We made a short stop in Portree, the capital, which is picaresque but doesn't require a ton of time, even if you want to check out all of the shops. And we stayed in Broadford, at the Corry Lodge (with dinner in walking distance at the Broadford Hotel): https://www.bedandbreakfast.eu/bed-a...-skye/3984889/ I'll be honest in that this is definitely one of those quirky bed and breakfasts, which will not be to everyone's taste. But, again, the location is stunning, with a view of the water, a lovely walk past an ancient cairn, and overgrown grounds to be explored, if you have time. My father felt it seemed like a setting for a Stephen King novel, but I found the rooms and details comfortable and generous, with whiskey over the fireplace, and a delicious breakfast.

We then started off the island over the Skye Bridge to the Eilean Donan castle, which was worth the entry fee. It's small and set in a breathtaking point. And getting there early means it's not filled with what our guide referred to as the "zombies" (though there were plenty of people taking selfies and completely oblivious to anything else). We had another great lunch at the Lock Inn, on Loch Ness at Fort Augustus. And we powered through to see Urqhart Castle, which was so crowded that we almost weren't able to make it. There is only one small lot, and otherwise, you basically have to find a way to park miles away (literally miles) in Inverness and find a bus. We stopped at waterfalls and the Falls of Foyers on the way. We got to Inverness late and stayed at the Waterside Hotel, on the river. A perfect setting, walking distance from the heart of the town: The Waterside Inverness Highland Hotel, Bar, Dining, Weddings & Events but a bit more pricey then we'd have liked for the rooms. That said, they have a restaurant, which was packed and very good, and a lovely breakfast, which made it easy. (Overall, hotels seemed expensive throughout Scotland, which might be because August is high season, while food was very reasonable for amazing meals.)

We got up earlier the next day to make it to Clava Cairns (another amazing archeological site, which has increased in popularity as a result of the Outlander series) before our 11.15 tour of the McCallan distillery. After a 500 million pound investment, the new visitor experience and distillery opened in June, and it is an absolute cathedral to the history, natural setting and process. I can't recommend it highly enough - again, you have to book in advance, as it's so popular. There's a nice place to a grab a bit there afterwards, and they have the fabulously cute Highland cows on the property. Then we began the 4-hour drive back to Edinburgh, without much time to stop anywhere else. Craig does occasionally do later days (at extra cost) and he was trying to avoid rush hour in the city, but I wish we could have stopped at a couple of places on the way back, though it was a long day as it was.

We spent a night at KM Central, which I would NOT recommend (no lift and kind of a remade student dorm despite it's positioning on Booking.com), but had a final fantastic dinner at the Printing Press on George Street (a return visit, as our first meal there had been so outstanding). And the train back the next day to London.

The other tiny tips I'd offer in general - if you think you'll start to fade mid-day while in London or Edinburgh, book tea somewhere and have a rest and some clotted cream and scones. This was a lifesaver with my mom, whose back starts to give out after so much walking and museums. I'd recommend the Palm Court at the Balmoral as the pinnacle, the Grand Cafe at the Scotsman is a close second, the Dome as a close third, and the cafe at the Modern Two Museum for something different. They also have tea almost everywhere, like the Botanical Garden and the top of the National Museum.

It's hard to go wrong, as there's so much to do in Scotland - so, my biggest suggestion is decide on one must-do each day and plan around it in the area, so you're not running back and forth. Enjoy!