Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Trip Report: Our Honymoon to Rome, Capri, and Positano

Search

Trip Report: Our Honymoon to Rome, Capri, and Positano

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 20th, 2003, 10:34 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Trip Report: Our Honymoon to Rome, Capri, and Positano

Hello all-
I just wanted to thank everyone on this site for all of their help in planning our trip. My husband Chris was so amazed at some of the restaurants we went to and loved our hotels and kept asking me, How did you hear about this place??

I know others have posted similar trip reports so I don't want to be redundant. I will post some highlights of our trip as well as any helpful logistical things that others might find useful. I'd be happy to answer any questions for anyone who is planning an upcoming trip!

Some overall impressions: people were very friendly. Chris was worried about anti-American sentiment and we felt none. We knew some key phrases in Italian but cannot speak the language but found that even with starting with the phrases, people were wonderfully friendly. Also, we decided it's near impossible to get a bad meal in Italy. Everything was delicous! Other things- we're glad we brought our own shampoo/conditioner as most hotels did not offer this. Also, wish I had brought a travel blow dryer b/c my hair is very thick and the blow dryers in the hotel needed a bit more oomph. Also wish we would have brought a travel iron/steamer since none of the rooms had an iron and although we sent some stuff to get ironed, it was pricey!

Ok- We arrived safely in Rome from Minneapolis via Chicago on American Airlines. I had some Xanax on the plane which calms me down so much and was also able to sleep. Our hotel, the Albergo del Senato, sent a car for us and the driver was there as promised. Spoke no English but was so charming on the ride as he kept pointing out various sights to us. Arrived at the Senato at 9am and they had our room ready on the 4th floor. What a view- it looked right over the Pantheon!!!! We loved it. Service was excellent, rooms a decent size, good size bathrooms. The windows were sound proof which was nice given the buzz below us. The hotel rooftop bar was nice with great views of the city. And we loved the area- so fun with all the restaurants and bars. I would whole-heartedly recommend this place.

Spent two days in Rome and walked everywhere. Everything was just amazing. The highlight was the free Paul McCartney concert at the Coliseum....they estimated that 500,000 ppl showed up! Both fun and surreal the same time!

Two wonderful restaurants- Bramante (Piazza Navona) and Clemente (Pantheon).

Ok- will post more in my next message.
JaneS is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 10:43 AM
  #2  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We left for Capri on Monday morning- took a Eurostar train to Naples and a hydrofoil to Capri. I had looked up the Eurostar schedule before the trip and so we took a cab to the station ($8) and just bought our tickets about 45 mins before hand with no problems. Sat in second class which was fine but no one seems to actually sit in their seats.

Arrived in Naples and took a cab to Molo Beverello and we were sure to ask the driver how much it would cost (16E). He drove like a maniac and got us to the dock in time for the next hydrofoil. It was an absolute madhouse with no lines or anything- just everyone trying to squeeze in to a tiny opening on the boat. We noticed this a lot about Italy- no lines for anything- just people budging where they can. Chris was annoyed but what can you do?

Capri was fantastic. We were so glad we decided to spend the night there b/c it is a totaly different vibe between day and night. Porters greeted us at the dock and whisked our bags away after we told them what hotel we were staying at (the Mamela). The hotel was also fabulous. Just outside of the town of Capri, large rooms, beautiful view from our own terrace, staff very very nice, but alas, wimpy blowdryer!

After checking in, we did the chairlift ride up the mountain in Anacapri- what incredible views. We took a cab to Anacapri which was very spendy ($15) compared to the bus ride back (about $3 total) but boy, was that bus crowded!! It was an adventure though to totter in a bus the size of a VW van crammed in with about 40 people taking some of those hairpin turns. I was afraid if everyone leaned into the turn, we'd just tip over!

Ate dinner at Le Grotelle. A little bit of a walk but the views were incredible. The restaurant is built into a cave with the terrace overlooking a cliff. Perfect views and a lovely meal. Had drinks at Quisiana (sp??)...I drank every sip of my $13 Irish coffee!

The next day, we did some window shopping (couldn't realy afford to do anything else) and took a boat cruise around the island. Left on a ferry for Positano- it was nice to have a direct trip there which we were not expecting to be able to do.
JaneS is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 10:52 AM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 607
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We are staying at the Del Senato in September and curious about a few things. Would you recommend a room facing the Pantheon? I was concerned about noise so thought it might be better to have a room facing the other way. We are light sleepers so wonder about how soundproof the windows are especially if we ended up on a lower floor. Also curious what they charge for the car service from the airport?
BoulderCO is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 10:53 AM
  #4  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We arrived in Positano- it was so beautiful...just how I pictured it but better. Instead of a porter, we decided to wheel our own bags up which I was starting to regret about oh, 20 seconds into the trek. Everything is so steep! Chris was almost in the dog house for that decision Luckily, our hotel wasn't as far up as it could have been (L'Ancora) so he was redeemed. L'Ancora was centrally located which we really appreciated. The rooms were also simply decorated but nice but the views were the winning aspect of this hotel. Chris surprised me with a suite so we had our own hot tub on this huge terrace overlooking Positano and the sea. It was heavenly to sit in the hot tub after a day of trekking around or at night

Positano was so relaxing for us after the hustle of Rome and Capri. We loved shopping in the stores and seeing the beautiful handmade pottery. We also took a day trip to Pompeii (SITA bus to Sorrento, train to Pompeii)...I'm glad we did it but it was between Pompeii or Ravello and I wish we had time to do both. The bus trip was something else though!

Three great restaurant experiences here- La Tragliatara in Montepertuso. They have a car service that will come and get you and the trip up is amazing. We went when it was already dark but we could tell by the near full moon how beautiful it was. The restaurant is casual and family run but the food was amazing! Our driver on our way back down told us that Bill Clinton and other foreign dignataries had been there. The restaurant grows many of its produce and even raises its own pigs! It was so yummy and the family could not have been friendlier. Our whole bill was about 65E and the restaurant provided us with complimentary small appetizers and dessert!

Il Ritrova, also in Montepertuso and also with a car service. Lovely meal and they also gave us complimentary dessert and a bottle of limoncello!

We also enjoyed La Cambusa in the bottom of Positano near the beach. Pasta was sooo good but definitely more crowded than the 2 restaurants in Montepertuso.

Also- by the church, we had two great sandwiches made to order at Vini e' Panini. Yum!! A great, cheap meal.
JaneS is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 10:56 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Jane:

I am very interested in your trip. I am getting married this weekend and our honeymoon is to Rome and Positano. We are staying by the spanish steps for three nights and then travelling to Positano for six nights. Will be staying at Le Agavi which I heard was on top of the hill. My fiance will be running around trying to get a travel iron as I told her that I am sure our room would have one. Any other helpful tips would be great - restaurants, places to see, etc.
Bbernstein is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 11:02 AM
  #6  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We left Positano on Friday, also by hydrofoil direct to Naples which was convenient and did the reverse trip to Mollo Beverello. Took a cab to the station and bought our tkts again from the machines. Took 1st class Intercity which was just fine. Not sure if we got a "nicer" train b.c it was heading up to Milan with a stop in Rome.

Got to Rome and checked in to La Lumiere, a hotel near the Spanish Steps. We were about 4 blocks off on Via Condotti. I didn't really care for this area as it just had shops that we couldn't afford and not as many restaurants or bars. Also, very crowded! I preferred the Pantheon but glad we tried two "different" areas of Rome. The hotel itself was also nice, comparable to the del Senato- friendly staff, tastefully appointed rooms. We had a nice terrace. It is a newer hotel I think so they had some kinks to work out- their credit card machine was on the blitz and at first they requested we pay in cash but was later able to accomodate our credit card. Also, some rooms have tubs but ours had a tiny shower which ran out of hot water about 10 minutes into the shower. Not good. Also, again, the wimpy blowdryer doomed me and my hair for another weekend!

Hit the Vatican which was the most crowded places we went to. Also one of the most overwhelming given its size, how ornate it is, and the number of people there. I'm glad we went but was sort of stressful navigating the maze of the Vatican Museum with everyone trying to get to the same spot- the Sistine Chapel.

On our last afternoon, we had drinks at the bar at the Eden Hotel (6th floor). A friend of the family recommended it to us and also gave us the euros to treat ourselves to the drinks. The drinks were spendy (10E beers for Chris!) but the view and the calmness was worth it.

Ok- I could write a ton more but will spare you the details. I'll try to answer any questions. Our trip was wonderful and I want to thank everyone again who helped us plan it. We couldn't have done it without y'all!!!

Jane
JaneS is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 11:06 AM
  #7  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
BoulderCo:
I would recommend a room facing the Pantheon- I think that's what makes the hotel so special. The view is just incredible (I have online pics if you are interested). And when we closed the windows, we couldn't hear a thing. We had a double, I think, on the 4th floor. The staff is very accomodating so maybe if you make your request in advance, they would be able to help you?

The car service was 50E or about $55. Chris wanted to surprise me and requested a "limousine" to get us but it turned out it was really a minivan! Poor thing but a very sweet gesture. The car service (no the "limo&quot was 45E. I think this is comparable to a cab and it was nice to have someone right there ready to whisk you away.

Jane
JaneS is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 11:15 AM
  #8  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Bbernstein-
Congratulations!! Positano was just magical and we were so glad we decided to go there...you will have a wonderful time.

Le Agavi is at the very top of town. Positano is very steep being at the top of town means a lot I think. I am not sure what you are looking for in hotel/location but here are my 2 cents.

We stayed not too far up from the coast, along one of the main roads. We felt this location was perfect since we could walk down to the water, walk around the center of town, etc. We accidentally got off too early on our bustop back from Pompeii "lower" in town than Le Agavi but still far up from our hotel. We took a cab back b/c we just couldn't walk anymore and it cost $12. I don't know if you are planning to just hang out at the hotel or would like to spend more time in town but in my opinion, Le Agavi was just too far up. There is a bus service but we didn't really use the internal Positano one. But again, we only had 3 days and you have 6 so you may not feel the sense of urgency to be "out and about" in Positano as we did.

We loved La Tragliatara and Il Ritrova- would definitely recommend those to you. The drive up is just amazing and the food was very very good. At both places, we had dinner for around $75.

I regret that we didn't go to Ravello as I keep hearing how beautiful it is but that will have to be another trip. We enjoyed Pompeii and would recommend that as well. A day trip to Capri would be neat although I would recommend as others did to me on this forum that you try to spend at least one night there. It was really amazing and a totally different experience after all the day trippers had left on the last ferry.

I'd be glad to share my online pictures with you too if you are interested.
JaneS is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 11:19 AM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh no! I am cringing at all the typos I made. Sorry everyone! I wish this thing had spellcheck!
Jane
JaneS is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 11:25 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for your assistance. I really appreciate it.
Bbernstein is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 02:22 PM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Jane,

I was so excited to read about your trip report, especially about Hotel L'Ancora. My fiance and I are staying there this fall during our honeymoon, and we have also booked the suite with the jacuzzi on the terrace!

It seems like you enjoyed the jacuzzi and the views, but could you tell me if you were also happy with the room, breakfast, and service at L'Ancora as well? I'm a little worried about your comments that your hotels didn't offer shampoo, blow dryers, or irons. I don't want to sound like a high-maintenance traveller, but my fiance and I are splurging on our hotel in Positano because we are planning on really slowing down and relaxing around the hotel, rather than sightseeing all day and just coming back to the hotel to sleep and shower. Would you recommend the L'Ancora (we're paying close 350Euro), or another hotel in Positano? We are also looking at Le Sirenuse, which is more expensive.

Thanks so much for your help!
milan is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 02:52 PM
  #12  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Milan-
Congrats!! Positano is so beautiful and you will have a great time on your honeymoon! Chris (my husband- it still feels weird to say that) has traveled all over the world and he said that he thought Positano was the most beautiful place he had been to!

Ok, as for L'Ancora. The rooms are simply decorated. Bathroom was large with a tub. Don't expect lavish furnishings or anything. Our suite was a bed, a few chairs, a dresser but the room was very large compared to other hotel rooms we'd been in. There was a set of glass doors that lead to an enclosed breakfast area with a small table and two sitting chairs. Then there was another set of glass doors to the outdoor terrace which was huge. Enough for a table with 4 chairs, 2 chaise lounges, and the hot tub. They refill the hot tub every day so we usually told them what time we wanted to use it and by the time we were back in the room, it had been cleaned and refilled. The views from the terrace were stunning and every afternoon, after our touring, we'd stop at a local store, grab a bottle of wine, take it back to our terrace, soak in the tub, and finish the bottle of wine. It was perfect.

L'Ancora does not have a pool but you can use the pool at its sister hotel (Covo de Saraceni) and the beach is not that far below. L'Ancora isn't like resort or anything so don't expect like tons of things to do in the hotel. But as I said, I loved the location since it was central to town but if you aren't that big on being out and about, maybe it isn't as important to you where in Positano you are located?

When I said that the hotels didn't offer shampoo or conditioner, blow dryers, and irons- I didn't mean that these were shabby hotels or anything...they were all very nice. Maybe European hotels are not that big on those amenities. If you needed your clothes ironed, you just sent them out to be done. I would suggest you bring your own steamer or something b.c the sending out option gets pricey. L'Ancora had soap, shampoo, and shower caps. It had a blow dryer but like I said, it was pretty weak.

Breakfast was fine- similar to the other hotel breakfasts we had. It's in a small room and my only complaint was that there was no view in the room. But, you could always elect to have breakfast served in your room in the terrace.

Overall, we loved L'Ancora. It was simple but very nice and the terrace was beautiful. If you are looking for something lavish, this isn't it but we found the place to be quiet, centrally located with a very friendly staff. They helped us make reservations at restaurants, helped us with transportation, etc.

Good luck!
JaneS is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 02:54 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Me again. Could you tell me more information about the direct hydrofoil from Naples to Positano? I've never read anything about it on this board before.

Thanks again.
milan is offline  
Old May 20th, 2003, 03:06 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Jane, thank you so much for the details about L'Ancora. I'm glad that you had a great time there. It's always a relief to get a personal recommendation on a hotel, especially for a honeymoon.

Congrats on your marriage and getting used to calling your husband 'husband.' I still call my fiance my 'boyfriend.'
milan is offline  
Old May 21st, 2003, 05:25 AM
  #15  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Milan-
We didn't take a hydrofoil from Naples to Positano- we took it from Positano to Naples. There were two a day departing from Positano direct to Naples- one at noon and one at 5:30 and it took an hour for 10E per person.

I am *pretty* sure I saw boats from Naples going to Positano but am not sure how frequent they are. I know some of the boats made multiple stops so there might be ferries/hydrofoil that go from Naples to Sorrento/Positano/Amalfi or something like that. Maybe someone else can be of more help?

You are welcome about the hotel description. I hope you have a wonderful honeymoon!!!!

JaneS (although I really should change my screen name to be JaneR now!)
JaneS is offline  
Old May 21st, 2003, 05:40 AM
  #16  
donnabee
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Sounds like you had a great time. I am counting down the days until we go - 1 month and 1 week! I am interested in the Xanax! I am so fearful of flying - always have been, and even more so since 9/11. Can I get just 4 Xanaxs from my doctor? I don't want a whole bottle. Do you take it before you board the plane? or when you get on the plane? Does it really calm you down?
 
Old May 21st, 2003, 07:39 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great report Jane. I am very glad you had such a memorable honeymoon.
bobthenavigator is offline  
Old May 21st, 2003, 08:06 AM
  #18  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Donnabee-
I called my doc with this whole speech in my head about why I needed the Xanax...overseas trip, nervous flier, I only wanted 4. Anyway, I ended up talking with her nurse and her nurse just said, "Sure, we get these requests all the time! I'll give you 10." So I got 10 0.5 milligrams of Xanax...with my health insurance, I paid $3.40.

I had taken it before for a previous trip to Paris. I've also taken Valium but it doesn't calm me down the way Xanax does. I usually take one 0.5 milligram pill and also have a glass of wine. It calms me down a ton and also makes me a drowsy...I slept off and on about 4 hours on the plane. I like it b/c you know what is going on but you really don't care that there is turbulence or you are stuck in a metal tube with 100s of other people. And it is easy to come out of- you don't feel groggy or anything although I know this differs for everyone. There is a long thread about nervous flying on this board which you may want to search for. I'll top it if I can.

I don't have a set time for when I take it. I don't take it before I board the plane b/c I think it is pretty fast acting. I am jittery before I board the plane but don't want to over medicate. If it's bumpy right away after take off, I take it right away. Otherwise, I take it with the meal service.

Good luck!
Jane
JaneS is offline  
Old May 21st, 2003, 08:14 AM
  #19  
donnabee
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Thanks Jane! Will consider it.
 
Old May 21st, 2003, 08:20 AM
  #20  
ira
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,699
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for your trip report, Jane.

Glad you had such a good time.
ira is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -