Trip Report: Our 25 Day Journey Through England(and a touch of Wales).
Aug 30th, 2011, 08:09 AM
#41
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Loving your report. On the welsh animosity towards the english, these days this attitude is mostly confined to the welsh-speaking north of Wales, which gets inundated by english tourists from the industrial north who aren't always as respectful as they could be, plus resentment of 'rich' english buying up houses as holiday homes and driving up house prices for the locals.
I might add that they are also prejudiced against the non-welsh speakers from South Wales, who they don't regard as 'proper welsh', as my southern welsh partner will attest. In turn, residents of south wales look upon northern welsh as backwards country bumpkins! C'est la vie!
I've certainly met animosity towards me as an english person in north wales, but never in the south, aside from cheerful ribbing. Well, apart from my mother-in-law who likes to rant against the english when she's had one whiskey too many, but that's another story...
I might add that they are also prejudiced against the non-welsh speakers from South Wales, who they don't regard as 'proper welsh', as my southern welsh partner will attest. In turn, residents of south wales look upon northern welsh as backwards country bumpkins! C'est la vie!
I've certainly met animosity towards me as an english person in north wales, but never in the south, aside from cheerful ribbing. Well, apart from my mother-in-law who likes to rant against the english when she's had one whiskey too many, but that's another story...
Aug 30th, 2011, 08:28 AM
#42
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Thanks Irishface. There will probably be a quote or 2 from Wordsworth in one of the next Day reports.
I didn't check the plug in the enema bags(for some reason I wasn't interested in picking them up and examining them!), but I think you've discovered the real reason for their placement in the bathroom. Good job! I never would have thought of that.
Kate--what you said about the actions of the Welsh towards to English is exactly what the English at Hawkshead told us. They told us we should have visited Pembrokeshire instead of Llandudno. (it seemed out of our way, though). I'm a little sorry that I didn't just drive up to Anglesey. It looks peaceful and serene.
Your mother in law sounds wonderfully opinionated!
I didn't check the plug in the enema bags(for some reason I wasn't interested in picking them up and examining them!), but I think you've discovered the real reason for their placement in the bathroom. Good job! I never would have thought of that.
Kate--what you said about the actions of the Welsh towards to English is exactly what the English at Hawkshead told us. They told us we should have visited Pembrokeshire instead of Llandudno. (it seemed out of our way, though). I'm a little sorry that I didn't just drive up to Anglesey. It looks peaceful and serene.
Your mother in law sounds wonderfully opinionated!
Aug 30th, 2011, 08:36 AM
#43
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Irish--if Joey puts his trip report here on Fodors I want to let you know that he is a terrific writer, will take his time, but will also probably bring political references into the report which may stir some Fodors members up. He is a passionate writer and is somewhat more like Flanneruk in his writing style(which I like). But chances are he will offend some readers.(which is odd because in person he offends no one--whereas my frankness can sometimes be misconstrued!).
I'll talk him into doing it.
I'll talk him into doing it.
Aug 31st, 2011, 07:39 AM
#44
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Day 12 HAWKSHEAD
Woke up feeling incredibly energetic! Started our day with another enormous and particularly tasty breakfast in the atmospheric Queen's Head dining room. We noticed that the Cumbrian sausages were the tastiest of all our breakfasts.
Explored the enchanting white village of Hawkshead. Visited the Beatrix Potter gallery(to be honest it was a little dull).
Joey stayed at the Inn much of today and worked on his writing, so I spent a great deal of time alone in the village.
The grammar school where William Wordsworth attended as a student was a particular favorite! Very old desks, simple, beautiful study upstairs, and the guide was one of the best I've seen. I strongly recommend this old school to anyone who is planning a visit to Hawkshead.
The village itself is a charming little rambling place with cute little alleys, side streets, and flowers everywhere.
I walked up to the church and was ready to play the piano(no one was there and I was aching to pound on something) but a nice lady came inside and needed to prepare it for a recital that someone was to give that evening. Damn!
Walked up into the churchyard and cemetery which offered a terrific view over the village and surrounding hills/mountains. (in this part of the Lakes they felt more like hills, later in the north they had a more mountainous feel).
That afternoon I got Joey and we drove over to Grasmere and Dove Cottage(where Wordsworth lived for many years--and with many people). Each room in the cottage was very small, cozy, and probably not much different than how it was when Wordsworth resided there. The guide was very informative and witty. Is there a collective English sense of humor? So many seemed so similar in their wit and dry humor!
Grasmere itself was another charming village, though I preferred Hawkshead. The Lake seemed rather small compared to Derwentwater the following day.
I stupidly forgot to visit the Wordsworth graves while we were there!! Can't believe that I simply didn't think about it, especially after having just visited Dove Cottage.
What was really nice was being able to walk down to the beautiful lake to see what Wordsworth saw, felt, and loved "...thoughts that lie too deep for tears".
Incidentally, if any readers are classical music fans AND Wordsworth fans--I can STRONGLY HIGHLY EMPHATICALLY recommend an incredible piece of choral/orchestral music called "Intimations of Immortality" by British composer Gerald Finzi(1901-1956). Obviously with the words to Wordsworth's original ode of the same title. A rich, sad, lush, melancholy work that will definitely bring a tear to the eyes of all but the most hard hearted. This choral/orchestral work is not very well known--but should be in the standard repertoire.
We stopped and had dinner at a roadside Inn(forgotten the name unfortunately) and it was the best dinner of my entire vacation. Simple meal of steak and Ale pie---but this time with an incredible amount of flavor. My Gosh but it was tasty! Hung around this place for some beers, and then back to Queens Head for slumber.
Next: Keswick
Woke up feeling incredibly energetic! Started our day with another enormous and particularly tasty breakfast in the atmospheric Queen's Head dining room. We noticed that the Cumbrian sausages were the tastiest of all our breakfasts.
Explored the enchanting white village of Hawkshead. Visited the Beatrix Potter gallery(to be honest it was a little dull).
Joey stayed at the Inn much of today and worked on his writing, so I spent a great deal of time alone in the village.
The grammar school where William Wordsworth attended as a student was a particular favorite! Very old desks, simple, beautiful study upstairs, and the guide was one of the best I've seen. I strongly recommend this old school to anyone who is planning a visit to Hawkshead.
The village itself is a charming little rambling place with cute little alleys, side streets, and flowers everywhere.
I walked up to the church and was ready to play the piano(no one was there and I was aching to pound on something) but a nice lady came inside and needed to prepare it for a recital that someone was to give that evening. Damn!
Walked up into the churchyard and cemetery which offered a terrific view over the village and surrounding hills/mountains. (in this part of the Lakes they felt more like hills, later in the north they had a more mountainous feel).
That afternoon I got Joey and we drove over to Grasmere and Dove Cottage(where Wordsworth lived for many years--and with many people). Each room in the cottage was very small, cozy, and probably not much different than how it was when Wordsworth resided there. The guide was very informative and witty. Is there a collective English sense of humor? So many seemed so similar in their wit and dry humor!
Grasmere itself was another charming village, though I preferred Hawkshead. The Lake seemed rather small compared to Derwentwater the following day.
I stupidly forgot to visit the Wordsworth graves while we were there!! Can't believe that I simply didn't think about it, especially after having just visited Dove Cottage.
What was really nice was being able to walk down to the beautiful lake to see what Wordsworth saw, felt, and loved "...thoughts that lie too deep for tears".
Incidentally, if any readers are classical music fans AND Wordsworth fans--I can STRONGLY HIGHLY EMPHATICALLY recommend an incredible piece of choral/orchestral music called "Intimations of Immortality" by British composer Gerald Finzi(1901-1956). Obviously with the words to Wordsworth's original ode of the same title. A rich, sad, lush, melancholy work that will definitely bring a tear to the eyes of all but the most hard hearted. This choral/orchestral work is not very well known--but should be in the standard repertoire.
We stopped and had dinner at a roadside Inn(forgotten the name unfortunately) and it was the best dinner of my entire vacation. Simple meal of steak and Ale pie---but this time with an incredible amount of flavor. My Gosh but it was tasty! Hung around this place for some beers, and then back to Queens Head for slumber.
Next: Keswick
Sep 2nd, 2011, 06:00 AM
#47
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Maudie---it's coming! promise. It won't be as fascinating as your wonderful trip report, but I can say that the best b and b I've ever visited was near Keswick!
April---glad you're enjoying it, and by all means when you visit England, Rye and The Cotswolds are must sees in my opinion. Both very different and beautiful in their own ways. When you visit Rye(the streets are narrower than they appear in pics--especially Mermaid St) make certain to drive over to Beachy Head or Seven Sisters and walk along the cliffs or along the seaside. Another thing I liked about Rye was that the streets are still cobbled, and this seemingly small factor actually lends even more atmosphere to the town.
The entire Cotswolds area(I was based in the north) is enchanting. Everywhere was better than we expected, clean, rural yet not backwards(not that there would be anything negative about that), and earthy. Aside from the beautiful villages, the landscape was dreamy, undulating, mainly free of telephone poles and wires, and we didn't see one billboard. A heavenly place.
Check out the sight called picturesofengland.com and you will find many photos of everything England--and you will see some of my pics there as well.
April---glad you're enjoying it, and by all means when you visit England, Rye and The Cotswolds are must sees in my opinion. Both very different and beautiful in their own ways. When you visit Rye(the streets are narrower than they appear in pics--especially Mermaid St) make certain to drive over to Beachy Head or Seven Sisters and walk along the cliffs or along the seaside. Another thing I liked about Rye was that the streets are still cobbled, and this seemingly small factor actually lends even more atmosphere to the town.
The entire Cotswolds area(I was based in the north) is enchanting. Everywhere was better than we expected, clean, rural yet not backwards(not that there would be anything negative about that), and earthy. Aside from the beautiful villages, the landscape was dreamy, undulating, mainly free of telephone poles and wires, and we didn't see one billboard. A heavenly place.
Check out the sight called picturesofengland.com and you will find many photos of everything England--and you will see some of my pics there as well.
Sep 2nd, 2011, 07:43 AM
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>>>The Cotswolds had everything one would want and need---but I think they went overboard in providing Enema bags to their guests! I have never seen this offered in any bathroom on my travels,>>
Are you sure that's what they were? If they were hot water bottles, I can imagine the owners being really amused at the mistake
Are you sure that's what they were? If they were hot water bottles, I can imagine the owners being really amused at the mistake
Sep 3rd, 2011, 01:00 AM
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Thanks for the link, ancestralvoices. I haven't found your photos yet but will have a closer look later. Speaking of ancestors, mine will be the main focus of my trip. I am in very early stages of planning so the route and methods of transportation are far from established. It complicates matters that I must begin, whether it makes sense or not, in the Aylesbury area of Buckinghamshire. Had thought of visiting Oxford next before swinging east to a couple of places in Essex and south to Rye (no family connection in Rye - just that my Dad had a girlfriend from there during WWII and he really liked the place) and continuing west to Plymouth and other parts of Devon and possibly Cornwall. Where best to fit in the Cotswolds then... after Oxford? After Rye?
I really hadn't intended on posting questions until plans were more organized but will just 'throw them out there' in case you have any thoughts since you have seen these areas. I have only been to parts of Hampshire, Wiltshire, Dorset and Devon.
My trip would likely be in the spring or fall. For fetes, gardens, hiking (trails muckier in spring?), and flying events, I wonder which is best.
The thought of driving is daunting. I have never driven on the other side of the road, have never used a GPS, and will be travelling solo without a navigator by my side. I'm a little less nervous though, after reading your uplifting report!
I really hadn't intended on posting questions until plans were more organized but will just 'throw them out there' in case you have any thoughts since you have seen these areas. I have only been to parts of Hampshire, Wiltshire, Dorset and Devon.
My trip would likely be in the spring or fall. For fetes, gardens, hiking (trails muckier in spring?), and flying events, I wonder which is best.
The thought of driving is daunting. I have never driven on the other side of the road, have never used a GPS, and will be travelling solo without a navigator by my side. I'm a little less nervous though, after reading your uplifting report!
Sep 3rd, 2011, 04:57 AM
#51
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April, I've driven many times solo (and several times with "navigator" who was worse than useless) on roads in Ireland and UK and it has worked out just fine.
Sorry, Ancestral, for butting in on your story. I am loving it!
Sorry, Ancestral, for butting in on your story. I am loving it!
Sep 3rd, 2011, 06:09 AM
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>>>The Cotswolds had everything one would want and need---but I think they went overboard in providing Enema bags to their guests! I have never seen this offered in any bathroom on my travels,>>
I practically on the floor laughing! Er... these were almost certainly hot water bottles. Here in the UK we fill these up with hot water and use them to warm the bed on cold winter nights. Did it look like this by chance...: http://www.boots.com/en/Boots-Extra-...r-Bottle_1000/
I practically on the floor laughing! Er... these were almost certainly hot water bottles. Here in the UK we fill these up with hot water and use them to warm the bed on cold winter nights. Did it look like this by chance...: http://www.boots.com/en/Boots-Extra-...r-Bottle_1000/
Sep 3rd, 2011, 07:52 AM
#53
April - just butting in here as well- how long a trip are you planning on doing?
I'm sure that we could help you work out a great itinerary taking in Aylesbury, Essex, Rye, Plymouth, Devon, Cornwall, the Cotswolds and Oxford [which is a bit of a clue to the order I'd do it in] but to do them all justice, you'd need at least 3 weeks.
if you've got that sort of time, great. if you are more limited, your first task is to work out your priorities and which are you "must do's" which your optional extras.
gordon - not being familiar with what an enema bag looks like, it never occurred to me that what the OP was referring to was a common or garden hot water bottle. perhaps we might have twigged if it had had a nice furry tiger-shaped cover!
I'm sure that we could help you work out a great itinerary taking in Aylesbury, Essex, Rye, Plymouth, Devon, Cornwall, the Cotswolds and Oxford [which is a bit of a clue to the order I'd do it in] but to do them all justice, you'd need at least 3 weeks.
if you've got that sort of time, great. if you are more limited, your first task is to work out your priorities and which are you "must do's" which your optional extras.
gordon - not being familiar with what an enema bag looks like, it never occurred to me that what the OP was referring to was a common or garden hot water bottle. perhaps we might have twigged if it had had a nice furry tiger-shaped cover!
Sep 3rd, 2011, 04:10 PM
#54
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Thanks, irishface & annhig. I plan on visiting for a month or two, or as long as money lasts (the longer, the better). That could be a month spent touring and month staying put. If this happens next year, the Olympics could complicate things, so it could be divided into two trips: one in spring, one in fall.
Sep 3rd, 2011, 04:16 PM
#55
The idea that was an enema bag is just too weird for words 
April: Before the Olympics there is the Queen's Diamond Jubilee. This will change the May Bank Holiday to early June. So take that into account when figuring your dates.
April: Before the Olympics there is the Queen's Diamond Jubilee. This will change the May Bank Holiday to early June. So take that into account when figuring your dates.
Sep 4th, 2011, 02:20 AM
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OK, I had to "run and find out" and Googled "Enema bag hot water bottle" and came up with this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Home-Enema-H.../dp/B003Y3O9VG
It looks just like an ordinary hot water bottle so you can imagine the OP's confusion.
You don't 'alf learn things on this forum
It looks just like an ordinary hot water bottle so you can imagine the OP's confusion.
You don't 'alf learn things on this forum
Sep 4th, 2011, 03:23 AM
#60
I'm with you there, MissP!
too funny that the OP was more familiar with enema bags than hot water bottles.
April - two months? we can certainly help you plan that trip! I would immediately think about splitting it into two sections - the "home counties and cotswolds" and "Devon and Cornwall", which would maximise your time in each area.
why not start a new thread about it?
too funny that the OP was more familiar with enema bags than hot water bottles.
April - two months? we can certainly help you plan that trip! I would immediately think about splitting it into two sections - the "home counties and cotswolds" and "Devon and Cornwall", which would maximise your time in each area.
why not start a new thread about it?
