Trip Report: October 2008 Provence, Costa Brava, Barcelona
Nov 17th, 2008, 07:12 PM
#21
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I've never posted a link to photos before on Fodors so this is a trial. I have my photos in a web album i created on Picasa. I hope this works...please let me know if it doesn't!
http://www.picasaweb.google.com/caro...francetoshare#
http://www.picasaweb.google.com/caro...francetoshare#
Nov 18th, 2008, 05:52 PM
#23
I enjoyed your photos.
That ornament on the door in Cucuron, they must have taken home as a souvenir. It grows in another part of France. In one village almost every door had one because it's supposed to tell you weather changes.
That ornament on the door in Cucuron, they must have taken home as a souvenir. It grows in another part of France. In one village almost every door had one because it's supposed to tell you weather changes.
Nov 18th, 2008, 07:35 PM
#26
AND, this is why I don't have one on my door!
From the 100 varieties of orchids found in
France the Causses boasts approximately
60. In particular, the connoisseurs
appreciate the Sabot de Vénus, or the
Lady’s Slipper, the largest orchid in
Europe. The region’s emblem is not,
however, a coloured flower but a thistle -
the Cardabelle. This thistle, traditionally
hung in doorways, is a true barometer.
Depending on the weather the centre of
the flower opens or closes. Since the
Cardabelle is a protected flower, please
leave it in its natural environment!
From the 100 varieties of orchids found in
France the Causses boasts approximately
60. In particular, the connoisseurs
appreciate the Sabot de Vénus, or the
Lady’s Slipper, the largest orchid in
Europe. The region’s emblem is not,
however, a coloured flower but a thistle -
the Cardabelle. This thistle, traditionally
hung in doorways, is a true barometer.
Depending on the weather the centre of
the flower opens or closes. Since the
Cardabelle is a protected flower, please
leave it in its natural environment!
Nov 19th, 2008, 07:28 AM
#27
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 703
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<u><b>Day Eight:</b></u> Lourmarin, Ansouis, Pertuis, Abbaye Silvatane, Joucas
We began our last day in Provence by driving the lovely route to <b>Lourmarin</b> for its Market Day. It was lively and full. Sometimes market day makes it a bit difficult to get the real feel for the village but we could tell this one had character and charm. In addition to really great vendors, there are some quality shops and I certainly found a few things I couldn't live without!! We had an encounter at this market with fellows who brought a little cart with a baby black pig and chihuahua puppy in it. They told us in bits of English that if we bought the boxed candy they were selling, the proceeds would go to the care and feeding of these little animals along with some others who otherwise would not have home and food…hmmmm…..so then after these little creatures have captured your heart and you say okay, sure I'll buy some…they hold up this large box of candies that they quote 15 euros…when you show surprise and shake your head, THEN they hold up the little box for much less. I have to admit the photo I got with the little pig pressing his snout against my husband's nose is priceless!!
<b>Ansouis </b>was very small and definitely perched! On our approach it was stunning the way it set up so high and cascaded down the mountain. In the foreground was a glorious flaming gold and red vineyard and here we were able to get one of the most wonderful photos of the whole trip. This little place had some of the narrowest passageways that you drive through…much like the "eye of the needle" experience in Menerbes.
We drove then through <b>Pertuis</b> and its Centerville and it was nice but nothing that really pulled us in to explore. Again, main street had lots of plane trees and a most lovely fountain with the sculpture of a lady and a little lamb. We stopped at a boulangerie and bought bread and pain au chocolate to add to our lunch fare.
<b>Abbaye de Silvacane</b>…this abbey was a delight! You park and walk a path up to the interpretive center/gift shop and then on a little to the abbey. This is also one of the three Cistercian abbeys of Provence …now we can say we've seen all three as we saw Abbaye de Senanque last year. This one is very modest and very beautiful. It presently has a very unusual but very "French" exhibit in one of its areas using much color, a modern sculpture piece of sort that incorporates water sounds and in another area there are photos of nature such as trees, rocks, etc. that somehow take on the features of human faces in some and in others distorted monster-like creatures. Very interesting. We literally were 2 of 4 individuals in this abbey and it was so very quiet, serene and spiritual. Outside is a long narrow walled "pool" that reflects the abbey in it, very lovely and again provided great photos. This is where we chose to have our picnic lunch and somehow we felt transported back into 12th century.
Upon our return to <b>Roussillon</b>, I strolled by myself through the quiet village at evening to soak it up and store up the memories that would have to suffice once we left this one of a kind village. As I probably said earlier, we chose Roussillon for our base this year because of all the places we walked through last year, this village stood out in our memory the most. When we saw it for the first time, we were overwhelmed by the colors of the ochre cliffs and the variations and vibrancy of those colors inside the village! Each structure, be it a shop, church, café, or residence…all in some way made use of the many earthy pigments found in the area. It's a challenge to find words to describe the beauty. I have photographed more details in this village than any other. Arches, artwork, doors, adornments, signs, medieval walls, niches, tiny passages, church interior, shutters, etc.
<u><b>Day Nine</b></u>: Collioure, and Llfranc, Spain
Left Roussillon fairly early after having met with the house representative who returned our deposit to us. Weather still a bit dreary. Our destination on this day was to make it to Llafranc on the Costa Brava. Along the way while we were still in France we stopped in a very small town, located their post office and did as many here on Fodor's had suggested. We purchased the extra large shipping box for I think 34 euros, took it out to the car and packed it as full as we could pack it with some of our treasures that we collected while in Provence. This box closed up tightly and easily; we took it back in the post office where they even doubled taped it up for us and placed the address label on it and we were on our way. Evidently it only took 5 days for it to reach our house.
I had read many recs for stopping in <b>Collioure</b> so we did. This is indeed a lovely seaside village with ramparts. It was a Saturday so things were hopping - lots of locals and tourists so it was lively. We didn't spend a long time there but enjoyed a cup of espresso at an outdoor café while watching a wedding party arrive to celebrate at a restaurant. Great fun seeing the bride and groom and wedding party dressed in their beautiful attire - quite interesting noticing all the different styles that wedding guests were wearing. The French no matter what their age seem to have this effortless sense of style and they pull off outfits that I think most of us could not…for some reason.
We arrived in <b>Llafranc</b>, Spain at the Hotel Llevant. We immediately fell in love with this seaside village and the hotel that we had chosen. The hotel is perfectly located on the waterfront. The beach is pretty with golden sand that reminds me of Kauai…easily brushes off…the waters of the Mediterranean sparkling with its sapphire blue color. Our room had a small balcony that looked right onto the beach, you could hear the tide and our first reaction was that we are going to sleep very well tonight!!
After getting settled in we walked the promenade of Llafranc. This place is small but not tiny…just right for us. It appears that normally there are 3-4 main hotels in operation on the waterfront but at this particular time of year I think the Hotel Llevant was the only one. Since it was after 6:00 p.m. we were finding nothing open so we began to walk down some of the side streets, finding only 3 little cafes open for business. The restaurant in our hotel was open but we just wanted to duck into a smaller place and have a relatively quick dinner. We ate at a small obviously family-run café called "Leons". There were probably 10-12 small tables and by the time we were half finished with our meal all of the tables were full and it was quite lively. The food was regional and excellent - it appeared that the "star" of the menu was what they call razor clams because plate after plate of this dish came out of the kitchen. We are not all that adventuresome when it comes to seafood and I know that many would shame us because of what we did NOT eat on our wonderful trip down the coast of Spain. We've tried but we just don't enjoy it that much…well at least I have to say I don't like it in a big way…my husband is extremely allergic to shellfish so he must be careful about what he eats. Anyway - we had ternera (veal) , white asparagus, prosciutto that they call jamon Serrano, French fries, solomillo de ternera which is a beef fillet with roquefurt sauce, mixed greens and it was delicious.
<u><b>Day Ten</b></u>: Palamos, Platja d'Oro, San Felieu de Guixols, Tossa de Mar.
Glorious morning of blue skies, sunshine and crisp air! The Hotel Llevant has a charming, bright, light dining room that extends out into a covered glass garden room which extends to an outdoor seating area. Included in the price of the room is breakfast and they have one of the finest "continental" breakfast buffets I have ever experienced. It was a joy and something we looked forward to each morning. One gentleman was in charge of taking care of all of us and there was usually around a dozen or so individuals at a time and he was bustling, keeping us refreshed with delicious coffee and whatever else we needed. The buffet included and I'm sure I'm leaving out something: various sliced artisan breads to toast, muffins, juices, sliced ham/turkey/cheeses, 3 choices of yogurt, fresh fruit, variety of sweet pastries that were fresh and exquisite, fresh tomatoes and olive oil to spread on toast for pa amb tomaquet , cereals hot and cold, boiled eggs.
We began our exploration of the Costa Brava and this area is gorgeous. Our first stop was the harbor of <b>Palamos</b>. A definite tourist town with a harbor full of boats, high rise apartments and hotels. Piles of fishing nets on the beach indicated an abundance of fresh seafood offerings for restaurants and residents. Very active place with lots of families out enjoying this sunny Sunday!
<b>Platja d'Oro</b> - we made a quick stop and it's very pretty and I'm sure a real hot spot in summer. Had long street lined with trees and tons of very nice retail shops and restaurants - extremely busy and full of life!
<b>S'Agaro </b>- we found a pathway that took us down to a gorgeous overlook where we could view the varying blues of the ocean from here all the way to Palamos. Craggy rock formations jutting out into the water…sailboats looking picture perfect. This area is breathtaking and difficult to put into words.
<b>Sant Felieu de Guixols</b>. We stopped here briefly to take in the sights of sparkling, clear blue water, sailboats, motorboats. The drive from here to <b>Tossa de Mar </b>was the most spectacular drive. It took us through pines, switchboacks, hairpins, high climbs, sheer drop-offs, twisting curves, low descents, views down to the water that were jawdropping. Quite a drive!!! Have to say my husband probably enjoyed this stretch more so than I because I was driving and could ill afford to take my eyes off the road for more than a couple of seconds at a time. Pulloffs were very strategically placed, however and we made good use of those from time to time.
<b>Tossa de Mar</b> in my book was not all that special but it did have a very large beach area and that day a very large number of people were taking advantage of soaking up the sun…not so much the sea because the water was pretty cold but there were the token beach umbrellas, young families playing in the sand and also the occasional topless bather (many were females that you'd LEAST expect to be sans tops!) We climbed up and sat on a wall by a monument to enjoy our lunch of prosciutto, cheese, bread, pears and water. The foot of the wall stood in crystal clear blue green water splashing on craggy rocks. Lovely lunch. We topped it off with a gelato from a nearby stand. Very satisfying.
We retraced our route back to Hotel Llevant where we sat out on our terrace, journaled and worked on organizing our photos on the laptop. Checked emails and checked in on our UT Longhorns who (at that time) were still undefeated and nationally ranked #1! Hook 'em!
<u><b>Day Eleven</b></u>: Coastline north of Llfranc, Cadaques, Sant Pere de Rodes
Today our itinerary was to begin with a drive to <b>Cadaques</b>. We had heard so many exciting things about this white village and were anxious to visit. The drive was almost too dramatic for words. We drove what seemed up into the clouds on narrow winding roads, constantly climbing so high that it was difficult for me to look down without getting dizzy…and that wasn't good because I was driving. Loved seeing olive trees that appeared to be very old and it fascinated us how the groves were terraced in such a vertical position - they were beautiful. We parked in the large parking lot and walked down through the old part of the village through narrow, cobblestoned passageways. We made our way down to the waters' edge and strolled for awhile taking in the sight of this village. Quite honestly, we were disappointed. Perhaps we had expected too much because of reports from others. It's pretty in its own way but it just left us a little letdown. Can't really describe it. And now I fully understand why Fodorites often comment that making Cadaques your base is not wise because of the drive in and out of it. I absolutely whole-heartedly agree!! I cannot fathom making that drive more than once. We kept remarking how awful it must be in the middle of the summer when I can only imagine how many vehicles are trekking in and out all day long…I know we wouldn't have the patience! We encountered very very few vehicles on our drive.
On our way back to Llafranc we took the road to <b>Sant Pere de Rodes Monestery</b>. It is located high atop a forested mountain overlooking the sea. It's jaw-dropping amazing to see its location and try to figure out how on earth this structure could possibly have been constructed! The guidebook says of the approach to the monastery that "it's a torturous road of hairpin bends". Oh yes it certainly is! The monestery is remote and splendid and has a grand presence. We read there is Benedictine legend which states that " in the 7th century in face of barbarian threats on Rome, the pope ordered a safe haven to be found for countless holy relics. They were hidden in this region by a trio of hapless monks who then forgot where and so they built a monastery rather than return to face the pope's wrath!"
Just down the little road and perched up just as high as the monastery is a church named <b>St. Helena</b>. It is in the process of being restored so we were unable to look inside. We climbed up above the church a ways and located a perfect picnic spot. We sat in lush green grass and were able to look to the right to see the monastery, look in front of us and see the church, look beyond the church and see the gloriously blue Mediterranean meeting the blue sky, and then look down off to the right and see the seaside village of Silva. We could even see the Pyrenees from this spot. This moment was magical as we were the only people in sight except for the couple of workers at the church. A treasured experience and a heavenly way to close our exploration of the Costa Brava. It's on to Barcelona tomorrow!
http://www.picasaweb.google.com/caro...abravatoshare#
more later…
We began our last day in Provence by driving the lovely route to <b>Lourmarin</b> for its Market Day. It was lively and full. Sometimes market day makes it a bit difficult to get the real feel for the village but we could tell this one had character and charm. In addition to really great vendors, there are some quality shops and I certainly found a few things I couldn't live without!! We had an encounter at this market with fellows who brought a little cart with a baby black pig and chihuahua puppy in it. They told us in bits of English that if we bought the boxed candy they were selling, the proceeds would go to the care and feeding of these little animals along with some others who otherwise would not have home and food…hmmmm…..so then after these little creatures have captured your heart and you say okay, sure I'll buy some…they hold up this large box of candies that they quote 15 euros…when you show surprise and shake your head, THEN they hold up the little box for much less. I have to admit the photo I got with the little pig pressing his snout against my husband's nose is priceless!!
<b>Ansouis </b>was very small and definitely perched! On our approach it was stunning the way it set up so high and cascaded down the mountain. In the foreground was a glorious flaming gold and red vineyard and here we were able to get one of the most wonderful photos of the whole trip. This little place had some of the narrowest passageways that you drive through…much like the "eye of the needle" experience in Menerbes.
We drove then through <b>Pertuis</b> and its Centerville and it was nice but nothing that really pulled us in to explore. Again, main street had lots of plane trees and a most lovely fountain with the sculpture of a lady and a little lamb. We stopped at a boulangerie and bought bread and pain au chocolate to add to our lunch fare.
<b>Abbaye de Silvacane</b>…this abbey was a delight! You park and walk a path up to the interpretive center/gift shop and then on a little to the abbey. This is also one of the three Cistercian abbeys of Provence …now we can say we've seen all three as we saw Abbaye de Senanque last year. This one is very modest and very beautiful. It presently has a very unusual but very "French" exhibit in one of its areas using much color, a modern sculpture piece of sort that incorporates water sounds and in another area there are photos of nature such as trees, rocks, etc. that somehow take on the features of human faces in some and in others distorted monster-like creatures. Very interesting. We literally were 2 of 4 individuals in this abbey and it was so very quiet, serene and spiritual. Outside is a long narrow walled "pool" that reflects the abbey in it, very lovely and again provided great photos. This is where we chose to have our picnic lunch and somehow we felt transported back into 12th century.
Upon our return to <b>Roussillon</b>, I strolled by myself through the quiet village at evening to soak it up and store up the memories that would have to suffice once we left this one of a kind village. As I probably said earlier, we chose Roussillon for our base this year because of all the places we walked through last year, this village stood out in our memory the most. When we saw it for the first time, we were overwhelmed by the colors of the ochre cliffs and the variations and vibrancy of those colors inside the village! Each structure, be it a shop, church, café, or residence…all in some way made use of the many earthy pigments found in the area. It's a challenge to find words to describe the beauty. I have photographed more details in this village than any other. Arches, artwork, doors, adornments, signs, medieval walls, niches, tiny passages, church interior, shutters, etc.
<u><b>Day Nine</b></u>: Collioure, and Llfranc, Spain
Left Roussillon fairly early after having met with the house representative who returned our deposit to us. Weather still a bit dreary. Our destination on this day was to make it to Llafranc on the Costa Brava. Along the way while we were still in France we stopped in a very small town, located their post office and did as many here on Fodor's had suggested. We purchased the extra large shipping box for I think 34 euros, took it out to the car and packed it as full as we could pack it with some of our treasures that we collected while in Provence. This box closed up tightly and easily; we took it back in the post office where they even doubled taped it up for us and placed the address label on it and we were on our way. Evidently it only took 5 days for it to reach our house.
I had read many recs for stopping in <b>Collioure</b> so we did. This is indeed a lovely seaside village with ramparts. It was a Saturday so things were hopping - lots of locals and tourists so it was lively. We didn't spend a long time there but enjoyed a cup of espresso at an outdoor café while watching a wedding party arrive to celebrate at a restaurant. Great fun seeing the bride and groom and wedding party dressed in their beautiful attire - quite interesting noticing all the different styles that wedding guests were wearing. The French no matter what their age seem to have this effortless sense of style and they pull off outfits that I think most of us could not…for some reason.
We arrived in <b>Llafranc</b>, Spain at the Hotel Llevant. We immediately fell in love with this seaside village and the hotel that we had chosen. The hotel is perfectly located on the waterfront. The beach is pretty with golden sand that reminds me of Kauai…easily brushes off…the waters of the Mediterranean sparkling with its sapphire blue color. Our room had a small balcony that looked right onto the beach, you could hear the tide and our first reaction was that we are going to sleep very well tonight!!
After getting settled in we walked the promenade of Llafranc. This place is small but not tiny…just right for us. It appears that normally there are 3-4 main hotels in operation on the waterfront but at this particular time of year I think the Hotel Llevant was the only one. Since it was after 6:00 p.m. we were finding nothing open so we began to walk down some of the side streets, finding only 3 little cafes open for business. The restaurant in our hotel was open but we just wanted to duck into a smaller place and have a relatively quick dinner. We ate at a small obviously family-run café called "Leons". There were probably 10-12 small tables and by the time we were half finished with our meal all of the tables were full and it was quite lively. The food was regional and excellent - it appeared that the "star" of the menu was what they call razor clams because plate after plate of this dish came out of the kitchen. We are not all that adventuresome when it comes to seafood and I know that many would shame us because of what we did NOT eat on our wonderful trip down the coast of Spain. We've tried but we just don't enjoy it that much…well at least I have to say I don't like it in a big way…my husband is extremely allergic to shellfish so he must be careful about what he eats. Anyway - we had ternera (veal) , white asparagus, prosciutto that they call jamon Serrano, French fries, solomillo de ternera which is a beef fillet with roquefurt sauce, mixed greens and it was delicious.
<u><b>Day Ten</b></u>: Palamos, Platja d'Oro, San Felieu de Guixols, Tossa de Mar.
Glorious morning of blue skies, sunshine and crisp air! The Hotel Llevant has a charming, bright, light dining room that extends out into a covered glass garden room which extends to an outdoor seating area. Included in the price of the room is breakfast and they have one of the finest "continental" breakfast buffets I have ever experienced. It was a joy and something we looked forward to each morning. One gentleman was in charge of taking care of all of us and there was usually around a dozen or so individuals at a time and he was bustling, keeping us refreshed with delicious coffee and whatever else we needed. The buffet included and I'm sure I'm leaving out something: various sliced artisan breads to toast, muffins, juices, sliced ham/turkey/cheeses, 3 choices of yogurt, fresh fruit, variety of sweet pastries that were fresh and exquisite, fresh tomatoes and olive oil to spread on toast for pa amb tomaquet , cereals hot and cold, boiled eggs.
We began our exploration of the Costa Brava and this area is gorgeous. Our first stop was the harbor of <b>Palamos</b>. A definite tourist town with a harbor full of boats, high rise apartments and hotels. Piles of fishing nets on the beach indicated an abundance of fresh seafood offerings for restaurants and residents. Very active place with lots of families out enjoying this sunny Sunday!
<b>Platja d'Oro</b> - we made a quick stop and it's very pretty and I'm sure a real hot spot in summer. Had long street lined with trees and tons of very nice retail shops and restaurants - extremely busy and full of life!
<b>S'Agaro </b>- we found a pathway that took us down to a gorgeous overlook where we could view the varying blues of the ocean from here all the way to Palamos. Craggy rock formations jutting out into the water…sailboats looking picture perfect. This area is breathtaking and difficult to put into words.
<b>Sant Felieu de Guixols</b>. We stopped here briefly to take in the sights of sparkling, clear blue water, sailboats, motorboats. The drive from here to <b>Tossa de Mar </b>was the most spectacular drive. It took us through pines, switchboacks, hairpins, high climbs, sheer drop-offs, twisting curves, low descents, views down to the water that were jawdropping. Quite a drive!!! Have to say my husband probably enjoyed this stretch more so than I because I was driving and could ill afford to take my eyes off the road for more than a couple of seconds at a time. Pulloffs were very strategically placed, however and we made good use of those from time to time.
<b>Tossa de Mar</b> in my book was not all that special but it did have a very large beach area and that day a very large number of people were taking advantage of soaking up the sun…not so much the sea because the water was pretty cold but there were the token beach umbrellas, young families playing in the sand and also the occasional topless bather (many were females that you'd LEAST expect to be sans tops!) We climbed up and sat on a wall by a monument to enjoy our lunch of prosciutto, cheese, bread, pears and water. The foot of the wall stood in crystal clear blue green water splashing on craggy rocks. Lovely lunch. We topped it off with a gelato from a nearby stand. Very satisfying.
We retraced our route back to Hotel Llevant where we sat out on our terrace, journaled and worked on organizing our photos on the laptop. Checked emails and checked in on our UT Longhorns who (at that time) were still undefeated and nationally ranked #1! Hook 'em!
<u><b>Day Eleven</b></u>: Coastline north of Llfranc, Cadaques, Sant Pere de Rodes
Today our itinerary was to begin with a drive to <b>Cadaques</b>. We had heard so many exciting things about this white village and were anxious to visit. The drive was almost too dramatic for words. We drove what seemed up into the clouds on narrow winding roads, constantly climbing so high that it was difficult for me to look down without getting dizzy…and that wasn't good because I was driving. Loved seeing olive trees that appeared to be very old and it fascinated us how the groves were terraced in such a vertical position - they were beautiful. We parked in the large parking lot and walked down through the old part of the village through narrow, cobblestoned passageways. We made our way down to the waters' edge and strolled for awhile taking in the sight of this village. Quite honestly, we were disappointed. Perhaps we had expected too much because of reports from others. It's pretty in its own way but it just left us a little letdown. Can't really describe it. And now I fully understand why Fodorites often comment that making Cadaques your base is not wise because of the drive in and out of it. I absolutely whole-heartedly agree!! I cannot fathom making that drive more than once. We kept remarking how awful it must be in the middle of the summer when I can only imagine how many vehicles are trekking in and out all day long…I know we wouldn't have the patience! We encountered very very few vehicles on our drive.
On our way back to Llafranc we took the road to <b>Sant Pere de Rodes Monestery</b>. It is located high atop a forested mountain overlooking the sea. It's jaw-dropping amazing to see its location and try to figure out how on earth this structure could possibly have been constructed! The guidebook says of the approach to the monastery that "it's a torturous road of hairpin bends". Oh yes it certainly is! The monestery is remote and splendid and has a grand presence. We read there is Benedictine legend which states that " in the 7th century in face of barbarian threats on Rome, the pope ordered a safe haven to be found for countless holy relics. They were hidden in this region by a trio of hapless monks who then forgot where and so they built a monastery rather than return to face the pope's wrath!"
Just down the little road and perched up just as high as the monastery is a church named <b>St. Helena</b>. It is in the process of being restored so we were unable to look inside. We climbed up above the church a ways and located a perfect picnic spot. We sat in lush green grass and were able to look to the right to see the monastery, look in front of us and see the church, look beyond the church and see the gloriously blue Mediterranean meeting the blue sky, and then look down off to the right and see the seaside village of Silva. We could even see the Pyrenees from this spot. This moment was magical as we were the only people in sight except for the couple of workers at the church. A treasured experience and a heavenly way to close our exploration of the Costa Brava. It's on to Barcelona tomorrow!
http://www.picasaweb.google.com/caro...abravatoshare#
more later…
Nov 21st, 2008, 03:39 PM
#29
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 15
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What fabulous pictures and great trip report. Thank you so much for responding to our questions on the Villa Quatre Saisons. After seeing your great pictures, we are really looking forward to seeing Provence.
