Trip Report: My November trip to Rome and Bologna with Mom and Sis
Nov 18th, 2010, 01:41 PM
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On Thursday we made our way to the train station via the bus and to Florence. K and I had been to Florence before on our previous trip and had seen a lot over our four days there, but Mom was anxious to see the Duomo and David, so we decided to go again.
Fodorite Ellenem outlined a great one-day Florence visit, which I loosely borrowed for our day. We started by taking the number 12 bus to Piazzale Michaelangelo and the fabulous views. It was fun riding the bus up. I found it funny that we were concerned that we wouldn’t know where to get off… ummm, it’s the stop with 10,000 tour buses and people running around with cameras. I see why they were there, though. The views were stunning and a great first look at Florence.
We then walked down Via di San Salvatore al Monte to the Ponte Vecchio, and then decided to head to the Oltrarno area for lunch. We really liked the Oltrarno last time and spent most of our time. We had had a memorable lunch at a spot in Piazza Santo Spirito, and decided to revisit it.
The Piazza was definitely more crowded than it had been two years before, and virtually everyone in our area of outside tables (three restaurants shared the same area) was speaking English. It occurred to me then that we really hadn’t been hearing much English in Bologna (unless someone was responding to my Italian. About half the time that I’d speak Italian, I’d get a response in English). In Florence, that’s about all we heard, and I was disappointed (illogically, I know) to get a menu entirely in English. Silly, I know, but we’re in Italy! At least give me a menu in both languages!
But I digress. Lunch was fine and the people-watching was good.
On our previous trip, K and I flew to Rome from NYC arriving at about 6am, took the train to Florence, quickly dropped off our luggage at our hotel and for reasons neither of us will ever understand, decided that would be a good time to power up the Duomo. Somehow, we managed to traverse those steep, narrow steps without harm. This time, I took one look at the top of the Duomo, and said ‘no way’. It’s a beautiful view, but there was no way I was climbing up again. Ever.
So we viewed the dome from the ground-level, worked our way to the Baptistery to look at the beautiful mosaics, then off to the Accademia for a look at David. What can you say about David? I could look at him all day. He’s awesome.
We were all getting tired so walked back to the train station by way of the San Lorenzo markets (where the vendors kept asking if we were Canadian) and back to Bologna.
Florence day was not my favorite. It wasn’t a bad day, but I found myself wishing I was back in Bologna, or maybe Ferrara or Parma. Those cities will have to wait for the next trip.
Dinner that night was again at Trattoria Trebbi, which this time was much more bustling. Our meals were wonderful and the wine that night was plentiful… which probably explains why our downstairs neighbor had to come up and mime to us that we had woken him with our loudness. Whoops.
Fodorite Ellenem outlined a great one-day Florence visit, which I loosely borrowed for our day. We started by taking the number 12 bus to Piazzale Michaelangelo and the fabulous views. It was fun riding the bus up. I found it funny that we were concerned that we wouldn’t know where to get off… ummm, it’s the stop with 10,000 tour buses and people running around with cameras. I see why they were there, though. The views were stunning and a great first look at Florence.
We then walked down Via di San Salvatore al Monte to the Ponte Vecchio, and then decided to head to the Oltrarno area for lunch. We really liked the Oltrarno last time and spent most of our time. We had had a memorable lunch at a spot in Piazza Santo Spirito, and decided to revisit it.
The Piazza was definitely more crowded than it had been two years before, and virtually everyone in our area of outside tables (three restaurants shared the same area) was speaking English. It occurred to me then that we really hadn’t been hearing much English in Bologna (unless someone was responding to my Italian. About half the time that I’d speak Italian, I’d get a response in English). In Florence, that’s about all we heard, and I was disappointed (illogically, I know) to get a menu entirely in English. Silly, I know, but we’re in Italy! At least give me a menu in both languages!
But I digress. Lunch was fine and the people-watching was good.
On our previous trip, K and I flew to Rome from NYC arriving at about 6am, took the train to Florence, quickly dropped off our luggage at our hotel and for reasons neither of us will ever understand, decided that would be a good time to power up the Duomo. Somehow, we managed to traverse those steep, narrow steps without harm. This time, I took one look at the top of the Duomo, and said ‘no way’. It’s a beautiful view, but there was no way I was climbing up again. Ever.
So we viewed the dome from the ground-level, worked our way to the Baptistery to look at the beautiful mosaics, then off to the Accademia for a look at David. What can you say about David? I could look at him all day. He’s awesome.
We were all getting tired so walked back to the train station by way of the San Lorenzo markets (where the vendors kept asking if we were Canadian) and back to Bologna.
Florence day was not my favorite. It wasn’t a bad day, but I found myself wishing I was back in Bologna, or maybe Ferrara or Parma. Those cities will have to wait for the next trip.
Dinner that night was again at Trattoria Trebbi, which this time was much more bustling. Our meals were wonderful and the wine that night was plentiful… which probably explains why our downstairs neighbor had to come up and mime to us that we had woken him with our loudness. Whoops.
Nov 18th, 2010, 04:47 PM
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Jmct, you said you have never posted a trip report before but I just want to say I have enjoyed your trip report beyond description. First of all I am so familar with the cities you visited and the sights and sites you saw. Beautiful memories! And your love for your mother and sister, how I in a nice way of course envy your trip with them. And your writing skills, your descriptions, your sense of humour, priceless!
I love your last post and the "Whoops". It especially gave me a good laugh as usually it is the Italians that make so much noise. But I love the Italians of course.
I hope there will be some more to read as again I have absolutely loved your trip report! Wishing you many more wonderful trips.
I love your last post and the "Whoops". It especially gave me a good laugh as usually it is the Italians that make so much noise. But I love the Italians of course.
I hope there will be some more to read as again I have absolutely loved your trip report! Wishing you many more wonderful trips.
Nov 18th, 2010, 11:49 PM
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Jmct,
Sorry I missed you while you were here (hope I didn't foul that up!) but glad you had such a nice time in Bologna. I laughed at your reaction to all the Americans and English language in Florence---that is why I have been putting off going there for the day! Not been to Trebbia here in Bologna and will try it but do like La Mela and glad you enjoyed it there. I also am not used to eating dinner at 8:30/9pm! Will be doing "Italian Days" with a friend next Saturday and really looking forward to it--lucky since Alessandro is not doing it at all in December!
Thanks too for the Rome suggestions since I will be there at the beginning of January.
Sorry I missed you while you were here (hope I didn't foul that up!) but glad you had such a nice time in Bologna. I laughed at your reaction to all the Americans and English language in Florence---that is why I have been putting off going there for the day! Not been to Trebbia here in Bologna and will try it but do like La Mela and glad you enjoyed it there. I also am not used to eating dinner at 8:30/9pm! Will be doing "Italian Days" with a friend next Saturday and really looking forward to it--lucky since Alessandro is not doing it at all in December!
Thanks too for the Rome suggestions since I will be there at the beginning of January.
Nov 19th, 2010, 01:40 AM
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Jmct,
Over the past several weeks I've been going to Bologna once a week, and it really is a seductive city. I'm not surprised to hear you found yourself missing it while you were in Florence, as much as I enjoy the art of Florence. But it is treat to be in a city like Bologna where there is so much contemporary Italian life to observe and enjoy.
It's great to read that you went into Santa Maria della Vita and saw the terracotta lamentation group. They are unforgettable.
I've often read good things about Trattoria Trebbi, so I hope to eat there sometime soon.
Over the past several weeks I've been going to Bologna once a week, and it really is a seductive city. I'm not surprised to hear you found yourself missing it while you were in Florence, as much as I enjoy the art of Florence. But it is treat to be in a city like Bologna where there is so much contemporary Italian life to observe and enjoy.
It's great to read that you went into Santa Maria della Vita and saw the terracotta lamentation group. They are unforgettable.
I've often read good things about Trattoria Trebbi, so I hope to eat there sometime soon.
Nov 19th, 2010, 04:54 AM
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Thank you all so much for such positive feedback. What a nice way to start a Friday! LoveItaly, you are too sweet. K and I feel very fortunate that we were able to do this with our Mom, and I feel so lucky that I have such a fabulous sister who can just look at me and make me laugh.
Kathy, I'm sorry we didn't GTG while we were in Bologna. I had intended to try to coordinate a meeting for an aperitivo or something, but work got crazy before I left and time slipped away. I hope you enjoy Alessandro and the tour as much as we did. Can't wait to hear!
Zeppole, I learned about Santa Maria della Vita from your posts. As I said, it was a high point and I'm grateful for the recommendation. It was wonderful to have the time to sit quietly and really absorb the sculpture in SM della Vita. Maybe I'm too easily distracted, but in Florence, the sheer numbers of people made it challenging to be in the moment, and certainly quiet is out of the question. I understand it -- Florence is full of magical artwork which attracts so many so there will always be a lot of people there, but it's those quiet moments like we had at SM della Vita that make you realize how powerful art can be.
Kathy, I'm sorry we didn't GTG while we were in Bologna. I had intended to try to coordinate a meeting for an aperitivo or something, but work got crazy before I left and time slipped away. I hope you enjoy Alessandro and the tour as much as we did. Can't wait to hear!
Zeppole, I learned about Santa Maria della Vita from your posts. As I said, it was a high point and I'm grateful for the recommendation. It was wonderful to have the time to sit quietly and really absorb the sculpture in SM della Vita. Maybe I'm too easily distracted, but in Florence, the sheer numbers of people made it challenging to be in the moment, and certainly quiet is out of the question. I understand it -- Florence is full of magical artwork which attracts so many so there will always be a lot of people there, but it's those quiet moments like we had at SM della Vita that make you realize how powerful art can be.
Nov 19th, 2010, 06:27 AM
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Friday, our last day. On this day, the plan was to go to Ravenna. I had waffled and wavered for months over what to do on this day. Parma? Ferrara? Ravenna? Stay in Bologna? There were so many very appealing options. A woman in my Italian class, though, finally convinced me that Ravenna would be the best choice as she had recently visited and thoroughly enjoyed it.
I am so glad she convinced me. We absolutely loved Ravenna. I somewhat expected it to be overrun with tour groups and buses given the fabulous attractions and that it is a Unesco site, but it was quiet with little vehicular traffic and lots of bicyclists.
The journey was an easy one on a regional train and took a little over an hour. It was another beautiful sunny day, and as we made our way to the center of town from the train station, we were greeted by a glorious site… there was a chocolate festival in town! It’s like they knew we were coming. Great big tents filled with every kind of chocolate and sweet treat that you could imagine. The smell was heavenly.
Our last day also traditionally marks the day that I become panicked that I have yet to buy anything. Unlike Mom, I’m not a big souvenir gal. My souvenir is usually the extra 5 lbs I bring home. Aside from the Shopaholic book and some cheese and vinegar purchased during the Food Tour, I had yet to buy anything, including any sort of gifty thing for my BF. As we entered the choco-fest, my eyes immediately began to dart around for something suitable to bring back.
We spent quite a bit of time perusing the tents. Mom bought a few treats for our brother and Dad, and K bought a really pretty necklace and bracelet set from a jewelry vendor close by. Alas, I bought nothing except for a tasty little cup of hot chocolate and rum to help with those 5 lbs. Totally worth it.
Finally we pulled ourselves away to start visiting the main attractions – the monuments with their Byzantine-era mosaics. We bought a ticket that allows entry to five different monuments for the bargain price of 8.50euro and went to the Basilica of San Vitale, Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo and Neonian Baptistry. We were dazzled by the intricate and glittering mosaics. Years ago when I lived in Brooklyn I had taken a mosaic class, struggling for weeks to mosaic a small plate… it wasn’t pretty and I never did finish it. I was in utter awe of these works and the patience and fortitude it must have taken to create them, in addition to the creativity. Amazing. The highlight for me was the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. You are allowed five minutes to walk into this small cross-shaped building, kept dark so the gold tiles really sparkle. The Ravenna book I bought called the mausoleum magical, and indeed it was. Big wow.
Lunch in Ravenna was at Ca de Ven, a huge enoteca. It was a really pretty space, with dark woods and bottles of wine stacked everywhere. I was a bit concerned b/c it’s mentioned in every guide book (not that there are many) and website about Ravenna, and someone here on Fodor’s (I think) recently mentioned that service was a bit less than pleasant. The woman who greeted us was certainly no Ms. Personality, but no matter. It was here that I had one of my favorite dishes ever… Melanzane e Ricotta: a big slab of ricotta sandwiched between two perfectly prepared pieces of eggplants, topped with just a hint of tomato sauce and a sprinkle of parmesan. It was unbelievable, and the waitress can scowl and growl all she wants if she’s bringing me that. Mom and K also enjoyed their lunches, and we had a nice bottle of wine to make our moods even better.
We strolled through the chocolate festival one last time before making our way to the train and back to Bologna. Since it was our last night there, we decided to hop off the bus a little early and make the journey back to our apartment on foot. Piazza Maggiore was humming with a farmer’s market set up and lots of people out enjoying a warmish, dry Friday night.
We spent some time walking through the food markets on Via Peschiere and Via Drapperie. We loved this. The beautiful dispalys of produce, pastas and hams and cheeses filling the shop windows are a feast for the eyes. Finally, I picked up a few small gifts of chocolate (of course) and a little book about amore for the BF. Pshew!
For dinner that night, we went to Osteria dei Poeti, not far from our apartment. We started to realize that this may not have been the best choice ever when we walked in to the traditional strains of Gloria Estefan playing on the sound system, followed by the Beastie Boys Body Movin’. I thought it would be fun for our last night as I had read it had live music and a good crowd, but it was a little cheesy for our tastes. Of course we were the first to arrive at 9 (I thought we were finally dining late like locals! Guess not on a Friday!), but the place quickly filled up and there were also a few tables of large parties. Most seemed to be speaking Italian, but not sure if they were local (I somehow doubt it, but could be wrong).
The food was actually pretty good when they remembered to bring it. K and I had a nice green lasagna which we both liked a lot. Service was REALLY slow. Really. Not just by fast-eating-American standards. I think they were short-handed, since we kept seeing the waitresses literally sprinting through the restaurant. But as always we had a good time and enjoyed the scene, and had a good laugh at the Neil Diamond-wannabe crooning Elvis tunes.
Too tired for even one last gelato (though we did have a stash of biscotti which did not survive long after we returned), we headed back to the apartment to pack and get ready for our departure.
I am so glad she convinced me. We absolutely loved Ravenna. I somewhat expected it to be overrun with tour groups and buses given the fabulous attractions and that it is a Unesco site, but it was quiet with little vehicular traffic and lots of bicyclists.
The journey was an easy one on a regional train and took a little over an hour. It was another beautiful sunny day, and as we made our way to the center of town from the train station, we were greeted by a glorious site… there was a chocolate festival in town! It’s like they knew we were coming. Great big tents filled with every kind of chocolate and sweet treat that you could imagine. The smell was heavenly.
Our last day also traditionally marks the day that I become panicked that I have yet to buy anything. Unlike Mom, I’m not a big souvenir gal. My souvenir is usually the extra 5 lbs I bring home. Aside from the Shopaholic book and some cheese and vinegar purchased during the Food Tour, I had yet to buy anything, including any sort of gifty thing for my BF. As we entered the choco-fest, my eyes immediately began to dart around for something suitable to bring back.
We spent quite a bit of time perusing the tents. Mom bought a few treats for our brother and Dad, and K bought a really pretty necklace and bracelet set from a jewelry vendor close by. Alas, I bought nothing except for a tasty little cup of hot chocolate and rum to help with those 5 lbs. Totally worth it.
Finally we pulled ourselves away to start visiting the main attractions – the monuments with their Byzantine-era mosaics. We bought a ticket that allows entry to five different monuments for the bargain price of 8.50euro and went to the Basilica of San Vitale, Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo and Neonian Baptistry. We were dazzled by the intricate and glittering mosaics. Years ago when I lived in Brooklyn I had taken a mosaic class, struggling for weeks to mosaic a small plate… it wasn’t pretty and I never did finish it. I was in utter awe of these works and the patience and fortitude it must have taken to create them, in addition to the creativity. Amazing. The highlight for me was the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. You are allowed five minutes to walk into this small cross-shaped building, kept dark so the gold tiles really sparkle. The Ravenna book I bought called the mausoleum magical, and indeed it was. Big wow.
Lunch in Ravenna was at Ca de Ven, a huge enoteca. It was a really pretty space, with dark woods and bottles of wine stacked everywhere. I was a bit concerned b/c it’s mentioned in every guide book (not that there are many) and website about Ravenna, and someone here on Fodor’s (I think) recently mentioned that service was a bit less than pleasant. The woman who greeted us was certainly no Ms. Personality, but no matter. It was here that I had one of my favorite dishes ever… Melanzane e Ricotta: a big slab of ricotta sandwiched between two perfectly prepared pieces of eggplants, topped with just a hint of tomato sauce and a sprinkle of parmesan. It was unbelievable, and the waitress can scowl and growl all she wants if she’s bringing me that. Mom and K also enjoyed their lunches, and we had a nice bottle of wine to make our moods even better.
We strolled through the chocolate festival one last time before making our way to the train and back to Bologna. Since it was our last night there, we decided to hop off the bus a little early and make the journey back to our apartment on foot. Piazza Maggiore was humming with a farmer’s market set up and lots of people out enjoying a warmish, dry Friday night.
We spent some time walking through the food markets on Via Peschiere and Via Drapperie. We loved this. The beautiful dispalys of produce, pastas and hams and cheeses filling the shop windows are a feast for the eyes. Finally, I picked up a few small gifts of chocolate (of course) and a little book about amore for the BF. Pshew!
For dinner that night, we went to Osteria dei Poeti, not far from our apartment. We started to realize that this may not have been the best choice ever when we walked in to the traditional strains of Gloria Estefan playing on the sound system, followed by the Beastie Boys Body Movin’. I thought it would be fun for our last night as I had read it had live music and a good crowd, but it was a little cheesy for our tastes. Of course we were the first to arrive at 9 (I thought we were finally dining late like locals! Guess not on a Friday!), but the place quickly filled up and there were also a few tables of large parties. Most seemed to be speaking Italian, but not sure if they were local (I somehow doubt it, but could be wrong).
The food was actually pretty good when they remembered to bring it. K and I had a nice green lasagna which we both liked a lot. Service was REALLY slow. Really. Not just by fast-eating-American standards. I think they were short-handed, since we kept seeing the waitresses literally sprinting through the restaurant. But as always we had a good time and enjoyed the scene, and had a good laugh at the Neil Diamond-wannabe crooning Elvis tunes.
Too tired for even one last gelato (though we did have a stash of biscotti which did not survive long after we returned), we headed back to the apartment to pack and get ready for our departure.
Nov 19th, 2010, 09:07 AM
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On Saturday it was back to NYC via Madrid. The Bologna airport is super close to the city (20euro by taxi, but I think there’s a bus for 5euro from the train station. Nice story – we misunderstood the fare and gave the taxi driver far too much, which he promptly returned) and small, so check-in was a breeze once we figured out we were in the line going to Morocco and needed Madrid. As I mentioned at the beginning of the report, our flight to Madrid was delayed, so we had a mad and stressful dash through terminal 4 to make our JFK flight (which ended up leaving an hour late) but otherwise our return trip was painless.
I didn’t include links or restaurant address info and the like, but if anyone wants any of that, let me know. I have 35 pages of notes I can reference
Thanks so much again for reading and for the nice comments. Next year: Buenos Aires!
I didn’t include links or restaurant address info and the like, but if anyone wants any of that, let me know. I have 35 pages of notes I can reference
Thanks so much again for reading and for the nice comments. Next year: Buenos Aires!
Nov 19th, 2010, 11:59 AM
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I have really enjoyed reading your trip report. I feel like I was right there with you 3. Well, not really, but it felt so good to hear the detailed accounts of all of your experiences. Please post more. I am glad you all had such a nice time.
Nov 19th, 2010, 12:52 PM
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jmct,
I am more than happy to share! I owe my knowing about Santa Maria della Vita to someone is really just barely an acquaintance, but when he knew I was going to be in Bologna, he so enthusiastically urged me to go, and it seemed so simple, I went not knowing what to expect. The grouping is extraordinary.
Have fun in Buenos Aires!
Kathrynj,
Terracotta lamentation groupings are scattered about Bologna and Emilia-Romagna, and while Santa Maria della Vita, it is worth going into San Pietro when it's convenient to see not just the terracotta lamentation there (more more subdued), but the Caracci, the Creti, and the polychrome marble chapel by Callamarini. If you haven't already, the art collection in the Palazzo Communale. Be sure to stick your head into all the rooms. The layout is confusing.
I am more than happy to share! I owe my knowing about Santa Maria della Vita to someone is really just barely an acquaintance, but when he knew I was going to be in Bologna, he so enthusiastically urged me to go, and it seemed so simple, I went not knowing what to expect. The grouping is extraordinary.
Have fun in Buenos Aires!
Kathrynj,
Terracotta lamentation groupings are scattered about Bologna and Emilia-Romagna, and while Santa Maria della Vita, it is worth going into San Pietro when it's convenient to see not just the terracotta lamentation there (more more subdued), but the Caracci, the Creti, and the polychrome marble chapel by Callamarini. If you haven't already, the art collection in the Palazzo Communale. Be sure to stick your head into all the rooms. The layout is confusing.
Nov 19th, 2010, 07:14 PM
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I really enjoyed your trip report!
We are planning our first trip to bologna ourselves, with a quick pop into rome and florence (where we've been before and loved).
Your details are wonderful.
It sounds like the three of you had a wonderful and memorable trip.
Thanks so much for sharing!
dina
We are planning our first trip to bologna ourselves, with a quick pop into rome and florence (where we've been before and loved).
Your details are wonderful.
It sounds like the three of you had a wonderful and memorable trip.
Thanks so much for sharing!
dina
Nov 22nd, 2010, 11:46 AM
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Thanks TTrent! You should definitely do one! I'm glad I did b/c I ALWAYS say I'm going to journal or scrapbook about a trip, and I NEVER get around to it. Doing this forced me to make a record. I look forward to reading yours
